EP2862944B1 - Ökologisches Gerb- und Färbeverfahren sowie erhaltenes Produkt - Google Patents

Ökologisches Gerb- und Färbeverfahren sowie erhaltenes Produkt Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2862944B1
EP2862944B1 EP13188958.6A EP13188958A EP2862944B1 EP 2862944 B1 EP2862944 B1 EP 2862944B1 EP 13188958 A EP13188958 A EP 13188958A EP 2862944 B1 EP2862944 B1 EP 2862944B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
skins
tanning
leather
ecological
dyeing process
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP13188958.6A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2862944A1 (de
Inventor
Giuseppe D'AGOSTINO
Alessandro Bazzano
Andrea Maria Paula Solarsky
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Balenciaga SA
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Balenciaga SA
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Priority to RS20170275A priority Critical patent/RS55791B1/sr
Priority to ES13188958.6T priority patent/ES2625320T3/es
Priority to EP13188958.6A priority patent/EP2862944B1/de
Publication of EP2862944A1 publication Critical patent/EP2862944A1/de
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Classifications

    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14—SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14C—CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
    • C14C3/00—Tanning; Compositions for tanning
    • C14C3/02—Chemical tanning
    • C14C3/08—Chemical tanning by organic agents
    • C14C3/10—Vegetable tanning
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14—SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14C—CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
    • C14C3/00—Tanning; Compositions for tanning
    • C14C3/02—Chemical tanning
    • C14C3/08—Chemical tanning by organic agents
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14—SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14C—CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
    • C14C3/00—Tanning; Compositions for tanning
    • C14C3/02—Chemical tanning
    • C14C3/08—Chemical tanning by organic agents
    • C14C3/14—Fat tanning; Oil tanning
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14—SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14C—CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
    • C14C3/00—Tanning; Compositions for tanning
    • C14C3/02—Chemical tanning
    • C14C3/28—Multi-step processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/34—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using natural dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/32—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups leather skins

Definitions

  • the invention relates to an ecological tanning and dyeing process of leather, hide, skins or pelts.
  • the methods used in tanneries comprise the steps of:
  • the tanning step is considered the most important in the chain of processing raw hides that are stiff and after storage putrescible and are thus transformed into a soft rot and what the leather material.
  • Systems most commonly used tanning are:
  • the existing mineral tanning processes are implemented in an aqueous medium.
  • the tanning chromium chloride or chromium sulfate is the most common.
  • the tanning with chromium is often preceded by acid treatment in a step known as "pickling".
  • tanning baths are never completely depleted chromium, which leads to the release of baths containing significant amounts of chromium (about 25 to 30% compared to the quantities introduced).
  • chromium is a toxic pollutant releases and agent must undergo treatments statutorily disposal of chromium which are very expensive and do not allow direct recovery of chromium.
  • the use of metals such as chromium sometimes leads, due to the action of these allergenic, skin reactions in the user.
  • Tanning is the process to make hide or skins non putrescible.
  • Many tanning processes are known in the art. Among them, chrome-based tanning or vegetable tanning are widely used. However, chrome-based tanning are dangerous for human health and environment.
  • Vegetable tanning is known since a long time and is considered as one of the best process to obtain a good quality and suppleness leather. But it is long and expensive. This process uses tannins from wood, bark, fruit, leaf, gall or natural polymers. The main used species are oak, chestnut, sumac, myrobollan or mimosa. Vegetable tanning consists in mixing skins or leather in water with an homogenate or extract of one or some of this species. It takes several months to tan a hide. So, this ancestral tanning process is not really adapted to industry. Moreover, natural dyes are not as efficient as synthetic dyes with fading problems during the life of the leather.
  • the international patent application WO2006/067801 deals with a bio-tanning process for leather making.
  • Conventionally skins/hides are tanned with metal-ions and vegetable tannins.
  • Environmental constraints on the discharge of toxic metal-ions and poor biodegradable vegetable tannins in the wastewater have become serious issue.
  • the pelts are tanned using eco-benign bio-molecules other than vegetable tannins to reduce the pollution loads.
  • Performance of the leathers is on par with conventionally processed leathers.
  • the European patent EP0849365 is about a composition for preparing leather or hides comprises a retanning agent, a dubbing agent and optionally adjuvants, which when added to an at least 8-fold amount of water at 10-60 degrees C forms a homogeneous mixture.
  • the patent application WO2010/130311 describes a tanned leather, skin or pelt which is produced by non-metal tanning, comprising the step of tanning with a non metallic tanning agent in a tanning bath, the tanning bath having a pH of from 6 to 10 at the beginning of tanning step.
  • the invention relates to the defined tanning process, particular tanning agent compositions, the use of the tanned leather, skins or pelts for further processing and the produced tanned and optionally further processed leather, skins or pelts.
  • tanning and dying skins, pelts or leather are two different steps.
  • the well known natural pigments to dye hides are campeach wood extracts (red to black), chestnut (greenwish-brown), yellow wood (yellow to orange), indigo (blue), cochineal (red), tara.
  • the patent application WO2005/038124 deals with a process for the production of pigment-dyed leather wherein a tanned leather is retanned at a pH GBP 4.5 with a combined retanning agent, which is a combination of a syntan or syntan precursor with a basic metal tanning agent, and is pigment-dyed in an aqueous dye bath with at least one pigment in the form of an aqueous dispersion of a colour pigment, in which the average particle size of the dispersed particles is ⁇ 5 microm, in the presence of a surface active aliphatic mono-, di- or triamine containing a C12-30-hydrocarbon radical and at least one polyethyleneglycolether chain, or an amphoteric derivative thereof, at a pH GBP 4.5, provides pigment-dyeings of outstanding colour yield, levelness and reproducibility of the pigment-dyeing, with satisfactory surface penetration, and also of satisfactory hiding properties with respect of any irregular previous dyeings of the substrate, while the
  • the patent application NZ193940 presents a process for dyeing and tanning pelts in a single bath, wherein these materials, which can be fat-liquored before-hand, are (a) dyed with at least one anionic dye and simultaneously pickled, and (b) tanned with at least one tannin, at a temperature in the range from 158 to 458C and in an aqueous liquor which has been adjusted to a pH value of 1 to 4.
  • compositions to simultaneously tan and dye hides characterized by the fact that they contain at least one tanning compound able to form chromophore groups and at least one coupler able to develop with the chromophore groups of the compound tanning the final colour.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a new process to tan leather, skins, hide or pelts to preclude the above drawbacks.
  • the invention concerns an ecological tanning and dyeing process of leather, skins, hide or pelts which is chrome-free and combines vegetable and oil tanning, said ecological tanning and dyeing process comprising the following steps :
  • Percentages are essentially related to weight of skins to be tanned.
  • Advantageously oils are from animals.
  • Advantageously oils are vegetal oils.
  • Advantageously vegetable tanning uses vegetable tanning agents from wood, bark, fruit, leaf, gall or natural polymers.
  • originally natural pigments are non synthetic and do not contain any metal complexes.
  • An other purpose of the invention is a composition for ecological tanning process of leather, skins, hide or pelts, which comprises in percentage of weight of skins to be tanned:
  • An other purpose of the invention is a composition for ecological dyeing process of leather, skins, hide or pelts which comprises in percentage of weight of skins to be tanned:
  • An other purpose of the invention is a product obtained by said ecological tanning and dyeing process.
  • the ecological tanning and dyeing process disclosed by the invention comprises several steps.
  • the figure 1 describes the process steps according to the invention.
  • the skins are pre-tanned as usually done in that technical field.
  • Dehaired sheep skins are placed in a wood or polycarbon drum with a tanning mix comprising 10 to 20% of glucose, 10 to 30% of a mix of several natural oils, 2 to 15% of vegetable tannins and 50 to 70% of water.
  • the mix of oils is composed by animals and vegetables oils but each proportion depends on the nature of the skins and the desired colour. Indeed, oil combination influences the result of the tanned skin.
  • the tanning step is between 2 and 3 days long at ambient temperature.
  • the tanned skins are hanged and dried by air for several hours or days.
  • skins can be dye with non synthetic and originally natural pigments which are not containing any metal complexes. They are obtained from wood extracts for brown colours, mineral extracts for grey colours or vegetable extracts for brown, yellow and light colours. Skins are placed for 24 to 48 hours at 35 to 50°C in a dedicated drum with a mix of pigments to obtain desired colour and rubber to fix the colour.
  • This dyeing process gives a specific colour and texture effect to the leather which cannot be obtained by other process, in particular with traditional vegetable tanning. Indeed, it allows to have light colours and more brilliant and more shiny colours.
  • Some additional steps can be done as softening the leather by leaving leather in a drum for several hours or as fixing the colours. Leathers are then ready to be used for many different applications.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment And Processing Of Natural Fur Or Leather (AREA)

Claims (8)

  1. Ökologischer Gerbe- und Färbeprozess von Leder, Häuten, Balg oder Fellen, der chromfrei ist und pflanzliches und Ölgerben kombiniert, wobei der genannte ökologische Gerbe- und Färbeprozess die folgenden Schritte umfasst:
    - Vorgerben der Häute
    - Platzieren der vorgegerbten Häute in ein Fass mit einer komplett biologisch abbaubaren und umweltfreundlichen Gerbezusammensetzung, umfassend in Gewichtsprozent von zu gerbenden Häuten:
    ∘ 10 bis 20 % Glukose
    ∘ 10 bis 30 % einer Mischung aus tierischen oder pflanzlichen Ölen
    ∘ 2 bis 15 % pflanzliche Gerbstoffe
    ∘ und Wasser
    - Trocknen der Häute an der Luft
    - Färben der Häute in einem Fass mit einer komplett biologisch abbaubaren und umweltfreundlichen Färbezusammensetzung, umfassend in Gewichtsprozent von zu gerbenden Häuten:
    ∘ 1 bis 10 % natürliches Gummi
    ∘ 1 bis 10 % ursprünglich natürliche Pigmente
    ∘ Wasser
    - Trocknen der Häute an der Luft.
  2. Ökologischer Gerbe- und Färbeprozess von Leder, Häuten, Balg oder Fellen gemäß Anspruch 1, wobei die Öle von Tieren stammen.
  3. Ökologischer Gerbe- und Färbeprozess von Leder, Häuten, Balg oder Fellen gemäß Anspruch 1, wobei die Öle pflanzliche Öle sind.
  4. Ökologischer Gerbe- und Färbeprozess von Leder, Häuten, Balg oder Fellen, gemäß irgendeinem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, wobei das pflanzliche Gerben pflanzliche Gerbstoffe aus Holz, Rinde, Früchten, Blättern, Galle oder natürlichen Polymeren verwendet.
  5. Ökologischer Gerbe- und Färbeprozess von Leder, Häuten, Balg oder Fellen gemäß irgendeinem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, wobei die ursprünglich natürlichen Pigmente nicht synthetisch sind und keinerlei Metallkomplexe enthalten.
  6. Zusammensetzung für einen ökologischen Gerbeprozess von Leder, Häuten, Balg oder Fellen, der in Gewichtsprozent von zu gerbenden Häuten umfasst:
    - 10 bis 20 % Glukose
    - 10 bis 30 % tierisches und pflanzliches Öl
    - 2 bis 15 % pflanzliche Gerbstoffe
    - 50 bis 70 % Wasser
    die genannte Zusammensetzung ist komplett biologisch abbaubar und umweltfreundlich.
  7. Zusammensetzung für einen ökologischen Färbeprozess von Leder, Häuten, Balg oder Fellen, der in Gewichtsprozent von zu gerbenden Häuten umfasst:
    - 1 bis 10 % natürliches Gummi
    - 1 bis 10 % ursprünglich natürliche Pigmente
    - Wasser
    die genannte Zusammensetzung ist komplett biologisch abbaubar und umweltfreundlich.
  8. Durch den genannten ökologischen Gerbe- und Färbeprozess gemäß Anspruch 1 bis 5 erhaltenes Produkt.
EP13188958.6A 2013-10-16 2013-10-16 Ökologisches Gerb- und Färbeverfahren sowie erhaltenes Produkt Active EP2862944B1 (de)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
RS20170275A RS55791B1 (sr) 2013-10-16 2013-10-16 Postupak ekološkog štavljenja i bojenja i dobijeni proizvod
ES13188958.6T ES2625320T3 (es) 2013-10-16 2013-10-16 Proceso ecológico de curtido y teñido y producto obtenido
EP13188958.6A EP2862944B1 (de) 2013-10-16 2013-10-16 Ökologisches Gerb- und Färbeverfahren sowie erhaltenes Produkt

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP13188958.6A EP2862944B1 (de) 2013-10-16 2013-10-16 Ökologisches Gerb- und Färbeverfahren sowie erhaltenes Produkt

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2862944A1 EP2862944A1 (de) 2015-04-22
EP2862944B1 true EP2862944B1 (de) 2016-12-14

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EP (1) EP2862944B1 (de)
ES (1) ES2625320T3 (de)
RS (1) RS55791B1 (de)

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITUA20162349A1 (it) * 2016-04-06 2017-10-06 Glycolor S R L Uso del lattosio in combinazione con estratti vegetali naturali per la concia metal free di pelli animali
PE20220407A1 (es) * 2019-07-16 2022-03-23 Curtidos Trevino S A De C V Metodo para producir cuero sustentable utilizando subproductos de partes de todas las variedades y especies de la planta del genus persea incluyendo entre ellas tanto la especie americana y la variedad hass tambien
EP4180541B1 (de) 2021-11-15 2024-05-15 Cyclica S.r.l. Verfahren zur herstellung eines gegerbten produkts
IT202200003698A1 (it) * 2022-02-28 2023-08-28 Stazione Sperimentale Per Lindustria Delle Pelli E Delle Materie Concianti S R L Procedimento di preparazione e di applicazione di olio vegetale conciante
IT202200007187A1 (it) * 2022-04-11 2023-10-11 Fgl Int S P A Processo di concia a basso rischio ambientale e sanitario, e composizioni per detto processo

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US196339A (en) * 1877-10-23 Improvement in tanning and dyeing leather
GB405315A (en) * 1932-08-02 1934-02-02 Ici Ltd Improved method of marking textile goods and marking compositions therefor
DE3060362D1 (en) 1979-06-06 1982-06-24 Ciba Geigy Ag Process for the one-bath dyeing and tanning of skins and furs
US4784664A (en) * 1986-06-24 1988-11-15 Seton Company Non-chrome tanning method
HU206395B (en) * 1988-09-09 1992-10-28 Simontornyai Boergyar Process for producing chrome-free soft leather
ZW16892A1 (en) 1991-10-30 1993-02-24 Unitan S A I C A Compounds to simultaneously tan and dye skins and process for the production thereof
PL323618A1 (en) 1996-12-20 1998-06-22 Tfl Ledertechnik Gmbh & Co Kg Hide processing compositions
GB0324529D0 (en) 2003-10-21 2003-11-26 Clariant Int Ltd Improvements in or relating to organic compounds
WO2006067801A1 (en) 2004-12-24 2006-06-29 Council Of Scientific And Industrial Research Bio-tanning process for leather making
NZ592760A (en) 2009-05-14 2013-11-29 Clariant Finance Bvi Ltd Tanning process and tanning composition

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES2625320T3 (es) 2017-07-19
EP2862944A1 (de) 2015-04-22
RS55791B1 (sr) 2017-08-31

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