Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/85—Verbenaceae (Verbena family)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

• Chasteberry extract for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition
• the present invention relates to the use of a Gattilier extract for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for stimulating the production of dopamine in cutaneous tissues, as well as a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising said Chasteberry extract.
• Gattilier is a Mediterranean shrub of the family Verbissecées, mainly represented by the species "Vitex agnus-castus", with small flowers, in whorls spaced, white or bluish, with tubular calyx, with irregular corolla carved of five lobes. Said flowers give berries (fruits), called “pepper monks”. The Gattilier is also well known under the Anglicism "Monk's pepper tree”.
• EP-1 980 241 is known a wet wipe impregnated with an impregnating liquid, used in the field of feminine hygiene.
• This impregnating liquid having soothing and calming properties, consists of a dried fruit extract from Vitex agnus-castus.
• Vitex agnus-castus makes it possible to reduce the level of prolactin thanks to its dopaminergic activity.
• the purpose of the present invention is to propose, in particular, a new use of a Gattilier extract for the preparation of a composition, in particular a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.
• the Chasteberry extract is therefore the main active ingredient of the composition according to the invention.
• the subject of the present invention is a use of a Chasteberry extract for the preparation of a cosmetic composition and / or Dermatological to stimulate dopamine production of cutaneous tissues, especially in topical application.
• Dopamine thus secreted at the cutaneous level advantageously plays a major role in maintaining cutaneous permeability and cutaneous homeostasis.
• composition according to the invention is effective in stimulating the production of dopamine by topical application, and thus improving the state of the cutaneous surface, and the homeostasis of the cutaneous barrier.
• the extract of Gattilier advantageously protects the skin, especially against external aggressions of the skin, and maintain a healthy and radiant cutaneous appearance.
• the external aggressions can be of physical type, such as ultraviolet radiation, and / or of chemical type, such as surfactants, solvents such as ethanol, etc.
• the extract of Gattilier advantageously allows to increase the cellular oxygenation, to improve the nutrition of the skin.
• the composition according to the invention makes it possible to promote the reconstruction of the barrier function of the stratum corneum thereby improving the homeostasis of the epidermis, the proper functioning of the barrier leading to the improvement of the brightness of the skin. skin.
• the Chasteberry extract may be in particular an extract of Vitex agnus castus.
• the Chasteberry extract may be obtained from Chasteberry berries, and particularly preferably, the Chasteberry extract may be a dry extract or a liquid extract, containing in particular casticine.
• Chasteberry extract comprises an extract of dried berries.
• composition of the invention it is preferred to use a liquid extract of Chasteberry.
• the cutaneous tissues of the invention more generally refer to the skin, which consists of both a living anatomical barrier and an exchange zone between the body and its environment, the effectiveness of this barrier conditioning the skin. maintaining a good homeostatic balance. It consists of several layers ranging from the superficial layer, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis. Each of these layers has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment.
• the epidermis which is composed of three types of cells, namely keratinocytes (90% of epidermal cells), melanocytes (2 to 3% of epidermal cells) and Langerhans cells, constitutes the outer layer and plays a role. fundamental to ensure the protection and maintenance of good trophicity.
• the dermis is 10 to 30 times thicker than the epidermis, which it serves as a support, and it is mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix mainly based on collagen and elastin.
• Collagen fibers which make up about 70% of dermal proteins, contribute to the texture and tone of the skin, while elastin is responsible for its elasticity.
• Other cells such as macrophages and leucocytes, are also present in the dermis layer.
• the hypodermis which is the deepest layer of the skin, contains the lipid-producing fat cells so that the subcutaneous tissue makes a fat layer that protects the muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.
• the Chasteberry extract can thus act:
• keratinocytes preferably on normal human keratinocytes, cutaneous tissues, and / or on cutaneous tissue fibroblasts.
• the composition may be formulated preferably for topical application.
• the composition of the invention may comprise at most 5% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at most 2% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at most 1% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably at most 0.2% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition .
• This upper limit advantageously makes it possible to guarantee the total safety of the composition on the cutaneous tissues, and in particular on the epidermal human cells.
• composition of the invention may comprise at least 0.006% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably at least 0.02% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the weight total composition
• This lower limit advantageously makes it possible to guarantee the effectiveness of the composition in stimulating the activity of cutaneous tissues, and in particular keratinocytes, on the production of dopamine.
• the composition can comprise from 0.006% to 5% by weight of an extract of Chasteberry, relative to the total weight of the composition
• the composition of the invention may comprise from 0.02% to 1% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the Chasteberry extract in the composition of the invention is preferably a liquid extract.
• Said liquid extract can be obtained according to the following conventional extraction method:
• Chasteberry berries including crushed Chasteberry berries, in a solvent, such as alcohol (eg ethanol), water, or a mixture of water and alcohol (eg example a mixture of water and ethanol),
• a solvent such as alcohol (eg ethanol), water, or a mixture of water and alcohol (eg example a mixture of water and ethanol),
• Said method may comprise a washing step, prior to the extraction step.
• This washing step may be a step of washing the Chasteberry berries in a solvent such as alcohol (eg ethanol), water, or a mixture of water and alcohol (eg example a mixture of water and ethanol); and then filtering the liquid residue (i.e. the washing solvent) to obtain washed chasteberry berries.
• a solvent such as alcohol (eg ethanol), water, or a mixture of water and alcohol (eg example a mixture of water and ethanol); and then filtering the liquid residue (i.e. the washing solvent) to obtain washed chasteberry berries.
• Said method may further comprise steps well known to those skilled in the art after the residue filtration step, such as by for example, a purification step by filtration of the liquid extract of Chasteberry.
• the liquid extract of Chasteberry can be more or less diluted in a solvent such as alcohol (for example ethanol), water, or a mixture of water and alcohol (for example a mixture of water and ethanol), according to the needs of the composition according to the invention.
• a solvent of the water / alcohol mixture type mainly comprising water, and preferably 60-70% of water for 40-30%. alcohol (volume to volume).
• the composition of the invention may further comprise a first encapsulation vector, intended to encapsulate the Chasteberry extract.
• said first encapsulation vector may be a cyclodextrin.
• composition may further comprise a second encapsulation vector for encapsulating said first encapsulation vector.
• said second encapsulation vector may be a liposome, such as in particular lecithin.
• compositions in accordance with the present invention may be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of a gel, lotion, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), serum (or essence), mask or ointment, containing compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable excipients and common carriers. They may also be in the form of wipes soaked with a solution containing Chasteberry extract according to the invention.
• Topical administration are prepared by techniques well known to those skilled in the art, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil emulsion. in water, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion.
• composition according to the invention may comprise one or more usual excipients, particularly suitable for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable excipients.
• excipients suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art, and may be chosen for example from one or more of the compounds i to xvi listed below:
• antioxidant vitamins such as vitamin E, for example tocopherol acetate or tocotrienol; vitamin C, for example ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate; natural polyphenols;
• vectors of active ingredients such as cyclodextrins; liposomes, for example lecithin;
• gelling agents and / or thickeners such as natural gums; synthetic polymers;
• emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers such as arachidyl glucoside; cetearyl glucoside; behenyl alcohol; cetearyl alcohol; cetostearyl alcohol; cetearyl alcohol; cetyl alcohol, steareth-2; steareth-21; isostearyl isostearate; isopropyl myristate;
• emollients and surfactants such as octyl dodecanol; isononyl isononanoate; capric / caprylic triglycerides; cetearyl octanoate; isopropyl myristate; cetearyl isononanoate; polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate; hydrogenated polyisobutene; cetyl palmitate; cetyl phosphate;
• silicones such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone
• humectants / moisturizers such as glycerine; butylene glycol; propylene glycol;
• preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid; benzoic acid; potassium sorbate; sodium benzoate; methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and isobutyl parahydroxybenzoates;
• agents for protecting against ultraviolet rays such as hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens, chosen from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; a cinnamic acid ester; and more particularly octyl methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, or a cyano- ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate such as octo-crylene, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, and dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, t-butyl-methoxy dibenzoylmethane, and 4-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane, or such as UV screen-forming pigments. exfoliating powders; fruit powders; or mattifying powders such as methyl methacrylate copolymer;
• composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more usual complementary active agents, especially adapted for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable active ingredients.
• complementary active agents suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art, and may be, for example, anti-aging active agents, soothing active agents, purifying active agents, slimming active agents, moisturizing active agents, etc.
• composition of the invention may comprise, in addition to the Chasteberry extract, one or more antioxidant vitamins, such as, for example, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and / or tocopherol.
• antioxidant vitamins such as, for example, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and / or tocopherol.
• the Chasteberry extract is vectorized, by nanoemulsion, in order to be able to more easily control the release of Chasteberry extract, and improve its bioavailability.
• the Chasteberry extract may be encapsulated in a first vector, such as cyclodextrins.
• a first vector such as cyclodextrins.
• the Chasteberry extract may itself be encapsulated in a second vector, such as liposomes such as lecithin.
• FIG. 1 represents a diagram of the keratinocyte production of dopamine after 24 hours of incubation in the presence of a control, and in the presence of formulations comprising a Chasteberry extract.
• a commercially available formulation was used to evaluate the effect of Chasteberry extract on the production of dopamine from normal human keratinocytes in cultures.
• This formulation is the product referenced "Happybelle-PE”, marketed by Mibelle AG Biochemistry.
• This formulation includes:
• a liquid extract of Vitex agnus-castus berries such as Chasteberry extract
• this liquid extract is based on a solvent comprising a mixture of water and ethanol (70/30 volume to volume), said liquid extract comprising 0.3% by weight of dry extract of berries
• Chasteberry liquid extract in this formulation is about 12.5% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation.
• normal human keratinocytes were obtained from an abdominal plasty carried out in a 66-year-old woman.
• the keratinocytes were then incubated for 24 hours at 37 ° C. under a humid atmosphere and 5% CO 2 .
• control in the culture medium in the presence of a reference product (i.e. control),
• the culture medium alone is an "untreated” medium, which does not include any reference product or "Happybelle-PE” formulation.
• the reference product or in other words the control, is amantadine hydrochloride 0.1 ⁇ .
• the dopamine contained in the explant incubation media was quantified using an E.I.A. kit. ("Enzyme Immuno Assay”) sensitive and specific.
• FIG. 1 shows the keratinocyte production of dopamine as a percentage relative to the control (100%):
• the formulation "Happybelle-PE” is thus capable of significantly increasing the production of dopamine of normal human keratinocytes in culture.
• dopamine production of normal human keratinocytes in culture is: - 6.1 times greater than that of the control, for the formulation "Happybelle-PE” at 0.01% (v / v), and
• amantadine hydrochloride used as a control, induced keratinocyte production of dopamine 5 times greater than that of cells in culture medium alone. Obtaining this result is considered sufficient to validate the study.
• composition according to the invention is effective for obtaining dopamine production by topical application, and thus improving the state of the cutaneous surface and the homeostasis of the cutaneous barrier. As a result, the skin is better protected, and the complexion more radiant.
• the product referenced "Happybelle-PE”, marketed by the company Mibelle AG Biochemistry, comprises about 12.5% by weight of liquid extract of Chasteberry (relative to the total weight of the product Happybelle-PE ).
• composition according to the invention having the following weight composition is prepared:

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• 2012
  • 2012-05-14 FR FR1254366A patent/FR2990351B1/fr active Active
• 2013
  • 2013-05-14 WO PCT/EP2013/059923 patent/WO2013171202A2/fr active Application Filing
  • 2013-05-14 EP EP13724551.0A patent/EP2849720A2/de not_active Ceased

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