EP2490768A2

EP2490768A2 - Unencumbering hair treatment product

Info

Publication number: EP2490768A2
Application number: EP10762679A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Thorsten Knappe; Bernd Richters
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2009-10-22
Filing date: 2010-10-07
Publication date: 2012-08-29
Also published as: WO2011047965A3; US20120201773A1; WO2011047965A2; DE102009045914A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a hair treatment product comprising, in respect of the weight thereof, at least 70 wt % water, 0.1 to 1.5 wt % of at least one silicon-based water-in-oil emulsifier from the group of polyethylene-glycol modified silicon; 1 to 10 wt % of a cyclic siloxane, said product being significantly improved in respect of the care potential thereof and the effect thereof on fullness and volume.

Description

"Non-weight-bearing hair treatment products"

The invention relates to agents for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one cyclic silicone and at least one PEG dimethicone.

Care products for keratinic fibers often have the disadvantage that they complicate the hair and thus reduce its fullness. This problem occurs especially with products that are left in the hair (so-called leave-on products). In contrast, products that are rinsed out shortly after use (so-called rinse-off products) often do not have sufficient care potential. It is an object of the present invention to provide hair treatment compositions which sustain the hair, improve shine and feel, without complaining about the hairstyle. Ideally, this should be achieved with products that can be rinsed off the hair in a relatively short time after their application, as well as remain on the hair.

Another object of the present invention is to improve the instability of the prior art compositions. Conventional 2-phase care products of the prior art show significant instabilities with a high mechanical load. These loads can be, for example, shaking before use or dispensing from the spray head, as this high shear forces occur. But even at low temperatures, the usual compositions are not sufficiently stable, especially when at low temperatures still a high mechanical stress occurs.

It has now been found, in an unpredictable manner, that care compositions for hair containing an aqueous vehicle can be significantly improved in terms of their care potential and their effect on the fullness and volume as well as the stability against high mechanical loads and low temperatures, if they at least one contain cyclic silicone and at least one PEG dimethicone.

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing by weight

a) at least 70% by weight of water,

b) 0, 1 to 1, 5 wt .-% of at least one silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier from the group of polyethylene glycol-modified silicones and c) 1 to 10 wt .-% cyclic siloxane.

The compositions according to the invention contain at least 70% by weight of water. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 75 to 97.5% by weight, preferably 77.5 to 95% by weight, more preferably 80 to 92.5% by weight and in particular 82 , 5 to 90 wt .-% water.

The compositions according to the invention also contain at least one silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier from the group of polyethylene glycol-modified silicones whose former INCI name was Dimethicone Copolyol, with the current INCI names PEG-x Dimethicones (where x = 2 to 20, preferably 3 to 17, more preferably 5 to 15). For example, the commercial product Dow Corning ES-5612 Formulation Aid is particularly preferred.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifiers from the group of polyethylene glycol-modified silicones, preferably within narrower ranges. Agents according to the invention are preferred here which, based on their weight, contain 0.15 to 1.25% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 0.75% by weight. % and in particular 0.3 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier from the group of polyethylene glycol-modified silicones.

Very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.15 to 1.25% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 0.75% by weight. and in particular from 0.3 to 0.5% by weight of Dow Corning ES 5612 Formulation Aid.

Cyclic siloxanes, the cyclic dimethicones referred to as cyclomethicones according to INCI, can preferably be used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands. Most preferred, with x = 5, is cyclopentasiloxane (CAS 2,4,6,8, 10-pentamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane).

The compositions according to the invention contain at least 1 to 5% by weight of the cyclic siloxanes. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 1.5 to 9.5% by weight, preferably from 1.75 to 9% by weight, more preferably from 2.0 to 8.5% by weight. %, even more preferably from 2.5 to 8.0% by weight, even more preferably from 3.0 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 3.5 to 7.5% by weight of cyclic siloxanes.

In addition to the silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier from the group of polyethylene glycol-modified silicones, the compositions according to the invention contain from 0.01 to 5% by weight of at least one silicone-free emulsifier.

Oil-in-water emulsifiers preferred according to the invention have an HLB value of at least 8, the total oil-in-water emulsifier system preferably having a weight-average (weight-averaged) HLB value in the range from 11-17, preferably 13.5-10 15.5, has. These are emulsifiers which are generally known to the person skilled in the art, as are listed, for example, in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd ed., 1979, Volume 8, pages 913-916. For ethoxylated products, the HLB value is calculated according to the formula HLB = (100-L): 5, where L is the weight fraction of the lipophilic groups, that is the fatty alkyl or fatty acyl groups, in the ethylene oxide adducts, expressed in weight percent. In the selection of suitable silicone-free oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention, preferably nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers, it is particularly preferred to use a mixture of oil-in-water emulsifiers, preferably nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers, to be able to optimally adjust the stability of the compositions according to the invention. The individual emulsifier components thereby deliver a proportion to the total HLB value or mean HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture in accordance with their weight proportion of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsifiers. According to the invention, the weight-average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier system is preferably from 1 to 17, preferably from 12 to 15 and particularly preferably from 13.5 to 15.5. In order to achieve such HLB values, oil-in-water emulsifiers from the HLB value ranges 10-14, 14-16 and optionally 15-17 are preferably combined with one another. Of course, the oil-in-water emulsifier mixtures (or oil-in-water emulsifier systems) may also contain emulsifiers, preferably nonionic emulsifiers, with HLB values in the range of> 7 to 10 and 17 to 20; Such emulsifier mixtures may also be preferred according to the invention. However, in another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention can also contain only a single oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 11-17, preferably 12-15 and particularly preferably 13-14.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the silicone-free oil-in-water emulsifiers are selected from ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols with an average of 8 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂ 4 -carboxylic acids with an average of 8 mono- 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated glycerol and / or diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₂ - - - 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, with an average of 20 C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, especially those of myristic, palmitic, Stearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids containing on average 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 12 -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, especially those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids, silico n-copolyols with ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols, partial esters of polyglycerols with n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and with Esterified 1 to 4, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ - C ₃₀ fatty acid residues, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂ alkanols have the formula R 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n H, where R is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 8 to 100, preferably 8 to 30, moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol , Petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical Mixtures. Also, adducts of 8-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are suitable.

The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂ 4-carboxylic acids have the formula R 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) n H, where R 0 is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide Units per molecule, for numbers from 8 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, cetylic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, arachyic , Gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are also suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate.

Particular preference is given to C ₂ -C ₈ -alkanols or C ₂ -C ₈ carboxylic acids, each having from 8 to 30 units of ethylene oxide per molecule and mixtures of these substances, in particular laureth-8, laureth-10, laureth-12, laureth 20, trideceth-8, trideceth-9, trideceth-10, tri- deceth-12, trideceth-20, ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-10, steareth-12, steareth- 20, steareth-30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, laureth-12 and beheneth-20.

Preferred average of 20 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated glycerol mono- and / or diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₂ - C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, are selected from PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated - genated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.

Preferred ones having on average 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated are selected from Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60 and Polysorbate-80.

Furthermore, preference is given to using C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides. C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside radical, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ^®, a glucosidically bonded C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group containing at an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization with 1-2, particularly 1, 2 - 1, 4, is located. Particularly preferred C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octylglucoside, decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, palmitylglucoside, isostearylglucoside, stearylglucoside coside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. The glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.

Ethoxylated sterols, in particular ethoxylated soy sterols, are also suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention. The degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably at least 10, in order to have an HLB value greater than 7. Suitable commercial products are, for. PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol.

Furthermore, partial esters of polyglycerols having 2 to 10 glycerol units and having 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid radicals are preferably used if they have an HLB value of more than 7 , Particularly preferred Diglycerinmonocaprylat, Diglycerinmonocaprat, Diglycerinmono- are laurate, Triglycerinmonocaprylat, Triglycerinmonocaprat, triglycerol, Tetraglycerinmono- caprylate, cerinmonocaprat Tetraglycerinmonocaprat, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprylat, Pentagly-, Pentaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprat, Hexaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonomyristat, Hexaglycerinmonostearat, Decaglycerin- monocaprylate, Decaglycerinmonocaprat, decaglyceryl monolaurate , decaglyceryl monomyristate, Decaglycerinmonoisostearat, decaglycerol monostearate, Decaglycerinmonooleat, deca- glycerinmonohydroxystearat, Decaglycerindicaprylat, Decaglycerindicaprat, Decaglycerindilaurat, Decaglycerindimyristat, Decaglycerindiisostearat, Decaglycerindistearat, Decaglycerindioleat, Decaglycerindihydroxystearat, Decaglycerintricaprylat, Decaglycerintricaprat, Decaglycerintri- laurate, Decaglycerintrimyristat, Decaglycerintriisostearat, Decaglycerintristearat , Decaglycerol tri oleate and decaglycerol trihydroxystearate.

Of course, instead of or in addition to nonionic emulsifiers and ionic sliconfreie emulsifiers can be used. Especially cationic emulsifiers are preferred here, see below.

Regardless of the nature of the silicone-free emulsifier, agents of the invention containing the silicone-free emulsifiers within narrower ranges of amounts are preferred. These preferred agents are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 0.02 to 4.5% by weight, preferably 0.03 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.04 to 3.5% by weight .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 3.0 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 0 wt .-% of at least one silicone-free water-in-oil emulsifier.

As already mentioned, in particular cationic compounds are preferred as silicone-free emulsifiers. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain exclusively cationic compounds as silicone-free emulsifiers.

Through the use of quaternary surface-active compounds with antimicrobial action, the agent can be designed with an antimicrobial effect or its possibly existing antimicrobial effect due to other ingredients can be improved. Examples of suitable QACs are benzalkonium chloride (N-alkyl-Ν, Ν-dimethylbenzylammonium chloride, CAS No. 8001-54-5), benzalkone B (m, p-dichlorobenzyl-dimethyl-C 12 -alkylammonium chloride, CAS No. 58390 -78-6), benzoxonium chloride (benzyldodecyl chloride) bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride), cetrimonium bromide (N-hexadecyl-N, N-trimethylammonium bromide, CAS No. 57-09-0), benzetonium chloride (N, N-dimethyl-N- [2- [2 - [p- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenoxy] ethoxy] ethyl] benzylammonium chloride, CAS No. 121-54-0), dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides such as di-n-decyldimethylammonium chloride ( CAS No. 7173-51-5-5), didecyldimethylammonium bromide (CAS No. 2390-68-3), dioctyldimethylammoniumchloric, 1-cetylpyridinium chloride (CAS No. 123-03-5) and thiazoline iodide (CAS No. 15764 -48-1) and mixtures thereof. Preferred QUATS are the benzalkonium chlorides containing C ₈ -C ₈ - alkyl groups, in particular C ₂ -C ₄ -Aklyl-benzyl-dimethylammo-niumchlorid. A particularly preferred QAC Kokospentaethoxymethylammoniummethosulfat (INCI PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate; Rewoquat CPEM ^®).

Further, as the cationic surfactant, at least one quaternary imidazoline compound, i. a compound having a positively charged imidazoline ring. The formula I shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

Formula I

The radicals R and R1 are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula I contain for R and R1 in each case the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R and R1 is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms and very particularly preferably having at least 20 carbon atoms. A most preferred compound of formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A product of this chain length is for example under the name Quaternium-91 or the trade names Crodazosoft ^® DBQ, which in addition to quaternium-91 further cetrimonium methosulfates and cetearyl alcohol contains, and Crodazosoft ^® SCQ, which in addition to quaternium 91 also PPG-3 benzyl ether myristates , known. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. On bevorzugtesten the commercial products Crodazosoft ^® DBQ and Crodazosoft ^® SCQ are bezeihungsweise quaternium-91, is used.

The imidazolines of the formula I are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. % contain. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt.%, In each case based on the total composition of the respective agent. Furthermore, the following cationic surfactants according to the formula (Tkat-2) can be used. RCO-XN ⁺ RR ² R ³ A ^" (Tkat-2)

R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 1 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain,

X is - O - or - NR ⁵ -,

R is an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms, which may be unsubstituted or substituted, in which case substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution,

R ² , R ³ each independently represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 6 C atoms in the chain, which chain may be straight or branched.

R5 is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight-chain or branched, alkyl or alkenyl radical which may also be substituted by a hydroxy group.

Within this structural class, the compounds of one of the following structures are preferably used:

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂ oCONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₃ A (Tkat-3)

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂ oCONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ (CHOH) CH ₂ OH A (Tkat-4)

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂ oCOOCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ A (Tkat-5)

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂ oCONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH A (Tkat-6)

Examples of such commercial products are Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.

Furthermore, esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) can be used. R2

l ₊

R1 N-X-R4

I

R3

(Tkat1-2)

Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

an aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,

the radical (--X - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:

The rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.

Where X stands for: 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or

2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,

and R4 stands for:

1) R6-0-CO-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or

2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion.

Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU 35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat WE38 ^® DPG and Stepantex ^® VS 90 are examples of such esterquats.

Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the formula (Tkat1-2.1), the cationic betaine esters.

R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

As a further ingredient Monoalkyltrimethylammoniumsalze with a chain length of the

Alkyl radicals of 16 to 24 carbon atoms may be included.

These compounds have the structure shown in the formula (Tkat1-1)

Wherein R1, R2 and R3 are each a methyl group and R4 is a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 16 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:

[R - NH - (CH ₂ ) _n --NR ² R ³ ] A (Tkat7) and / or

[R - NH - (CH ₂ ) _n --NR ² R ³ R ⁴ ] A (Tkat8)

wherein R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and

R 2, R 3 and R 4 are each independently of one another hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and

A is an anion and

n is an integer between 1 and 10.

Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given in this case to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these include lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) represent a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formulas (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.

The alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of R2, R3 and R4 in the general formula (Tkat7) and / or (Tkat8) may contain at least one hydroxyl group.

The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

Suitable amidoamines to be used according to the invention, which may optionally be quaternized, are, for example, amidoamines: Witcamine 100 (Witco, INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine), Incromine BB (Croda, INCI name: behenamidopropyl dimethylamine), Mackin 401 (McIntyre, INCI name: isostearylamidopropyl dimethylamine) and other Mackine types, Adogen S18V (Witco, INCI name: Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine), and as permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat RTM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH, INCI name: Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate), Empigen CSC (Albright & Wilson, INCI name: Cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride), Swanol Lanoquat DES-50 (Nikko, INCI name: Quatemium-33), Rewoquat UTM 50 ( Witco Surfactants GmbH, Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate).

The anion A according to all structural formulas listed above all cationic compounds listed above is selected from the physiologically acceptable anions. Examples of these are the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfate of the general formula RSO ₃ ^" in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, Citrate, lactate or acetate, called.

The aforementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 20 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.% And most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt.%, In each case based on the total composition of the respective agent.

Very particularly preferred composition of the invention are characterized in that they contain as silicone-free emulsifiers at least one cationic surfactant is preferably at least one Imidzoliniumsalz or at least one C ₈ -24 alkyl trimethylammonium salt, which is particularly preferably C ₁₀ -2O alkyl trimethylammonium salt, and further preferably contain C ₁₂ -18-alkyl trimethyl ammonium salts, and in particular cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, or a mixture of at least one imidazolinium salt and a C ₈ -24 alkyl trimethylammonium salt.

By selecting the type and amount of silicone-containing and silicone-free emulsifiers and their ratio to cyclodimethicone as well as oil bodies possibly contained in the middle agents of the invention can be formulated as a stable emulsion. However, it is also possible and preferred to provide the compositions according to the invention in the form of an emulsion which is at least partially unstable. This provides a two-phase product that includes a lower aqueous phase and an upper oil phase. If the emulsion does not completely break, a two-phase product is formed which contains a clear aqueous lower phase and a milky cloudy upper phase of unbroken emulsion. Such products have a high optical differentiation and a large consumer acceptance. The consumer shakes the product before use, applies the short-term stable emulsion to the hair while the remainder of the emulsion in the product package separates again. Two-phase products according to the invention are particularly preferred for these reasons; in other words, preferred agents according to the invention are not long-term stable emulsions.

The care effects of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by the choice of a suitable pH of the agents according to the invention. In particular, acidic agents of the invention show exceptionally good care properties without complaining about the hairstyle. Agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they have a pH <5, preferably <4, more preferably from 2.5 to 3.5 and in particular from 2.7 to 3.3.

As a further optional constituent, the agents according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

The cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds bearing at least one cationic group, especially ammonium substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

Examples of suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11).

Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ^® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylic amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid copolymer.

Homopolymers of the general formula (P1), - {CH ₂ - [CRCOO- (CH ₂ ) m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} n X ^" , in which R = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion Within these polymers, those are preferred in the invention, for which at least one of the following conditions applies:. R is a methyl group, R ^2, R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups , m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^" are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are commercially available, for example, under the names Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (3V Sigma).

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers are commercially available under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (P-3) G-0-B-N + R _a R _b R _c X ^"

G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or

hydroxyalkylene;

R _a , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20 is;

X ^" is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

A cationic cellulose sold under the name Polymer JR® 400 by Amerchol and has the INCI name Polyquaternium-10. Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol. Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses. Other preferred cationic celluloses are known under the INCI names Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar® and have the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Continue to be special suitable cationic guar derivatives also from the company Hercules under the name N-Hance commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

cationic alkyl polyglycosides,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® products 550 (Dimethyldiallylammoni- trimethylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ^® HS 1 10, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 are available. Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products.

The cationic polymers are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Regardless of whether the agents contain amphoteric polymers or not, further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s) included.

In summary, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of cationic polymer (s), preferred cationic polymer (s) being / are selected from

Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) and / or;

quaternized cellulose derivatives (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) and / or cationic alkyl polyglycosides and / or

cationised honey and / or

cationic guar derivatives and / or

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or

Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers and / or quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or

Polyquaternium 2 and / or

Polyquaternium-7 and / or

Polyquaternium-16 and / or

Polyquaternium 17 and / or

Polyquaternium 18 and / or

Polyquaternium 24 and / or

Polyquaternium 27.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or S0 ₃ H groups and which are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -S0 ₃ ^" groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or S0 ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

(i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol),

R -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^(_) (monol)

in which R and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{<_) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

(ii) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (mono 2),

wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and

A ^"is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

(iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3),

R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3)

in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Particularly preferred are those polymers in which monomers of type (i) are used, in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^<_) a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

In addition, in addition to a monomer (monol) or (mono 2) and a monomer (mono 3), the amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally contain one monomer (mono 4).

(iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),

in which R ⁰ and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C ₈ ) alkyl group. Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

With particular preference, the amphoteric polymers used in the agents according to the invention contain monomers from the group of the acrylamides and / or methacrylamides with alkylammonium groups. Acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or crotonic acid and / or 2-methyl-crotonic acid have proven useful as monomers with anionic groups which are additionally present in the polymers.

In summary, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amphoteric polymer (s) are co-polymers of at least one of the monomers

Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or

Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid and / or

Trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid and / or

Trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid and / or

Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid and / or

Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat and / or

Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat and / or

Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat and / or

Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or

Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide and / or

Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide and / or

Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid and / or

Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or

Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat and / or

Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat and / or

Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat

with at least one of the monomers

Acrylic acid and / or

Methacrylic acid and / or

Crotonic acid and / or

2-methyl-crotonic acid

are. Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are:

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with acrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with crotonic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with acrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with acrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with crotonic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with acrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with acrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with crotonic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid copolymers of trimethylammonium ethylacrylate with acrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with acrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate with crotonic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with acrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methylcrotonic acid copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with acrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with acrylic acid Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with acrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with acrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with acrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with acrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with acrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate with 2-methylcrotonic acid Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethylacrylate with acrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid

Preferably, the amphoteric polymer or the polymers are used within narrower ranges. Thus, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).

The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer, the sulfonic acid group having proved to be particularly effective wholly or partly can be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ^® 1 1-80 is.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;

Shellac, Polyvinylpyrrolidones, such as those marketed for example under the name Luviskol (BASF).

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention can be further optimized by fatty substances. Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which may be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, very particularly preferably amounts of 1-5% by weight.

Fatty alcohols which may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₀ - C ₂ 2-, and most preferably C ₁₂ - C ₂ 2- carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, usually from a recovery from the esters of the Fatty acids can be assumed by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight.

The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the action of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example:

vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,

symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ^®, Monomuls 90 L12 ^® or Cutina ^® MD.

The amount used is 0, 1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0, 1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0, 1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 6 to 45% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.

Furthermore, it has been shown that the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention can be increased if it is combined with hydroxycarboxylic acid esters. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of Ci ₂ -Ci ₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. The amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used is 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the agent, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight. As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cys), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions of the invention are vitamins,

Provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As a vitamin

A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters,

Vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate in

Consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

Vitamin B-i (thiamine)

Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and those in the cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are in the Agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain as care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 wt .-% , more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors containing, preferably, the groups A, B, C, E, Panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-A / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B ₃ , Vitamin B ₅ ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ , vitamin G ) and / or biotin (vitamin B ₇ , vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin B ₂ .

It has been found that the use of certain quinones enhances anti-dandruff and anti-hair loss effects as well as combability and gloss benefits. As a further constituent, the agents according to the invention can therefore be understood as meaning 0.0001 to 5% by weight of at least one biochinone and / or plastoquinone. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.

To improve the elasticity and strengthen the internal structure of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or purine derivatives. In particular, the combination of purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones means that the hairs treated with corresponding agents show, inter alia, higher measured values in differential thermal analysis and improved wet and dry combabilities.

Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s). Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.

It is also advantageous to use purine or purine derivatives and biochinones in a certain ratio to each other. Agents according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of ingredients a) and b) is from 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably from 5: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably from 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular from 1: 1 to 1 : 10.

As already mentioned, caffeine is a particularly preferred purine derivative, and coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% caffeine and 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.

As a further component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they are used as care ingredients - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates are selected out

Monosaccharides, in particular

D-ribose and / or

D-xylose and / or

L-arabinose and / or

D-glucose and / or

D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or

D-fructose and / or

Sorbose and / or

L-fucose and / or

L-rhamnose

Disaccharides, in particular

Sucrose and / or

Maltose and / or

Lactose and / or

Trehalose and / or

Cellobiose and / or

Gentiobiose and / or

Isomaltose.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose.

As already mentioned, preferred agents according to the invention contain (a) amino acid (s).

Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 15% by weight and in particular from 0 to 15% by weight , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

0.005 to 0.015 wt .-% caffeine and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate and

0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine, 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine.

Another, more preferably usable care substance which has activating properties is taurine. According to the invention, preferred hair-treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

Preference is also given to the additional use of bisabolol and / or bisabolol oxides in the agents according to the invention. Here, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt % Bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol

contain.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, Ν, Ν, Ν-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (benzophenone-3, Uvinul®M 40, Uvasorb®MET, Neo Heliopan®BB, Eusolex®4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, Parsol®HS, Neo Heliopan® Hydro), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7J-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl) methanesulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione (butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol® 1789, Eusolex®9020), a - (2-Oxoborn-3-ylidene) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA, Uvinul®P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl dimethyl PABA, Uvasorb® DMO, Escalol® 507, Eusolex® 6007), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (Oct yl salicylate; Escalol®587, Neo Heliopan®OS, Uvinul®018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan®E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Parsol® MCX, Escalol® 557, Neo Heliopan®AV), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone 4, Uvinul®MS 40, Uvasorb® S 5), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor, Parsol® 5000, Eusolex® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1-oxy) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1, Uvasorb® 20 H, Uvinul® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene, Eusolex®OCR, Neo Heliopan® Type 303, Uvinul® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan®MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-Tetrahydroxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-2; Uvinul® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone e-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-) yliden) - toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-

Methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-Isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor. Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that in structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. In the context of the invention, the term "water-insoluble" is to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,

Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

substituted benzophenones,

p-Am i nobenzoesä u reester,

diphenylacrylic,

cinnamic,

salicylic acid,

Benzimidazoles and

o-Am i nobenzoesä u reester.

Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably chosen such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂₎ _x -N ⁺ RR ² R ³ X ^", where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R and R ² are independently CI_ ₄ alkyl groups, R ³ is a Ci_ ₂ 2-alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms ,

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The compositions of the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.

Finally, the compositions according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, firing nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, Almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool Coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root are preferred.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

Advantageously in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) may additionally support the active substance complex (A). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids used according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. To the Substituents of the carboxylic acids used according to the invention include, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl , C2-C8-aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in the alpha position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxyl, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

The compositions according to the invention have advantageous properties and also confer advantageous properties on the hair treated with them. Benefits have been observed particularly in hair conditioning. Thus, hair treatment compositions according to the invention improve the grip and the combabilities in the dry and wet state of the hair treated with them. It also shows prevention of premature splitting of treated hair without affecting volume and fullness.

Another object of the present invention is therefore a process for the care of human hair, in which an agent according to the invention is applied to the hair, is left on the hair for an exposure time of 10 to 600 seconds, preferably from 30 to 150 seconds, and then the Hair is rinsed out.

Furthermore, the invention relates to a method for the care of human hair, in which an agent according to the invention is applied to the hair and remains there until the next hair wash, that is not rinsed again after a contact time of a few seconds.

This procedure according to the invention is based on a product according to the invention which is formulated as a so-called "rinse-off product", ie the product remains in the hair for a period of less than a quarter of an hour and is subsequently rinsed out. Care results can be achieved that meet or even exceed those of conventional leave-in products.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, mutatis mutandis the statements made concerning the agents according to the invention apply.

A further subject of the present invention is the use of compositions according to the invention for non-weight-bearing hair care.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Examples:

Care compositions of the following composition (data in% by weight, based on total agent) were prepared: FROM

Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 0.5

PEG-10 Dimethicone 0.35 0.35

Cyclopentasiloxane 7.0 7.0

Dimethiconol 4,5 4,5

Polyquaternium-16 1, 0 1, 0

Sodium benzoate 0, 1 0.1

D-panthenol 75% 0.5 0.5

Dow Corning * ⁵ '556 1, 5 1, 5

Lactic acid 80% 0.7 0.7

Cationic wheat hydrolyzate 1, 0 -

Water, fully desalinated ad 100 ad 100

The agents were applied to untreated human hair and rinsed after 5 minutes with warm water. The untreated and the treated hair were examined by differential thermal analysis, the peak temperature indicating the extent to which the matrix and the alpha helix are stable. The higher the peak temperature, the more stable the hair structure.

After treatment, the hairs treated with the compositions according to the invention exhibited, on average, a peak temperature increased by 3 ° C. (153 ° C. instead of 150 ° C.). In comparison, hair was treated with a commercial leave-in-treatment. This comparative sample only showed an increase in peak temperatures of 1 ° C.

Claims

Patent claims

1. hair treatment compositions containing based on its weight

a) at least 70% by weight of water,

2. Composition according to claims 1, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 0, 15 to 1, 25 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 1, 0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 0 , 75 wt .-% and in particular 0.3 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier from the group of polyethylene glycol-modified silicones.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 1, 5 to 9.5 wt .-%, preferably 1, 75 to 9 wt .-%, more preferably 2.0 to 8.5% by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 8.0% by weight, even more preferably 3.0 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 3.5 to 7.5% by weight % of a cyclic siloxane.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains as silicone-based water-in-oil emulsifier from the group of polyethylene glycol-modified silicones at least one compound with the INCI name PEG-x Dimethicone (with x = 2 to 20, preferably 3 to 17, more preferably 5 to 15).

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it further contains as silicone-free emulsifiers exclusively cationic compounds.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 up to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of cationic polymer (s), preferred cationic polymer (s) being / are selected from