EP2349495A1

EP2349495A1 - Ethylene oxide free antiperspirant/deodorant formulations

Info

Publication number: EP2349495A1
Application number: EP09756440A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jadranka Milardovic; Petra Schulte; Gabriele Strauss; Ev Suess
Original assignee: Cognis IP Management GmbH
Current assignee: Cognis IP Management GmbH
Priority date: 2008-11-28
Filing date: 2009-11-19
Publication date: 2011-08-03
Also published as: US20110274637A1; WO2010060563A1; JP2012509917A; EP2191868A1; KR20110089855A

Abstract

The invention relates to ethylene oxide free antiperspirant/deodorant formulations comprising at least one antiperspirant/deodorant active ingredient and at least one quaternary polymer having the INCI designation polyquaternium 37.

Description

Ethylene oxide-free antiperspirant / deodorant preparations

Field of the invention

The present invention relates to ethylene oxide-free antiperspirant / deodorant preparations based on the quaternary cationic polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium 37.

State of the art

AP / Deo formulations are known in the art. The need for improvement in existing formulations is the long-term stability of the emulsions, the sensory effect while maintaining the AP / De power. There is therefore a continuing need for improved AP / Deo formulations.

AP / Deo formulations of the market are usually ethylene oxide-containing, since the emulsifiers used in the formulations usually contain ethylene oxide (EO), which is viewed critically from the environmental point of view, even if they have a sufficient performance in terms of protection against odor. There are also EO-free AP / Deo formulations on the market, which are usually based on glyceryl stearate citrate and can convince neither by the stability nor by their sensory performance, since they are associated with a strong stickiness. Although there are solutions in the literature to achieve a dry end feeling. However, these relate exclusively to anhydrous systems (W. Limbach, Cosmetics and Hygiene, Wiley-VCH, 3rd edition, p. 371), which, although properly have a dry skin feel after application, but after a short timez seems dull and unpleasant ,

It was an object of the present invention to provide AP / Deo formulations which, on the one hand, have good stability and, on the other hand, enter the skin directly after application and leave a dry, non-sticky end feeling, without the protective effect being reduced , Preferably, the AP / Deo formulations should have a viscosity in the range of 900 to 15,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, 23 ° C, spindle 5, 10 rpm). It has been found that the preparations according to the invention achieve these objects.

Description of the invention

The present invention relates to ethylene oxide-free antiperspirant / deodorant preparations having the following constituents: a. at least one antiperspirant deodorant active ingredient, b. at least one quaternary polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium 37.

In a preferred embodiment, the preparations contain: a. at least one antiperspirant / deodorant active, b. at least one quaternary polymer with the INCI name Polyquaternium

37, and c. a lipophilic phase formed from liquid oil and / or wax.

Preference is given to antiperspirant / deodorant preparations which contain the constituents in the following proportions: a. 1 - 30 wt .-%, preferably 5 - 20 wt .-% and most preferably 10 - 15 wt .-% of the antiperspirant / deodorant active ingredient, b. 0.1-10 wt.% And preferably 1-5 wt.% Of a quaternary polymer having the structural formula below and the INCI name Polyquaternium 37, and c. 1 - 20 wt .-%, preferably 5 - 15 wt .-% of the lipophilic phase, each based on the total weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant preparation.

The term "ethylene oxide-free preparations" is understood to mean that the preparations do not contain compounds containing ethylene oxide units.

Polyquaternium 37 is a quaternary polymer which conforms to the following general formula:

Surprisingly, it has been found that ethylene oxide-free antiperspirant / deodorant formulations can be prepared with improved stability when the Preparations containing the quaternary polymer with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37. Surprisingly, it has been found that ethylene oxide-free antiperspirant / deodorant preparations can be prepared having a viscosity in the range of 900 to 15,000 mPas, preferably having a viscosity of 1500 to 10,000 mPas and most preferably having a viscosity of 2000-5000 mPas (Brookfield RVT 23 ⁰ C, spindle 5, 10 rpm). In a preferred embodiment, the preparations contain no interface-active substance, in particular no emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the preparations contain no surface-active substance, in particular no emulsifier, and contain a lipophilic phase. These preparations are also characterized by the fact that they additionally have a much better sensor technology. In particular, Polyquaternium 37 can provide the sticky, dull and waxy feel of the skin when used in the prior art formulations, e.g. B. preparations containing glyceryl stearate citrate can be avoided or at least significantly reduced. With all this, the protection performance, ie the effect as antiperspirant / deodorant, maintained.

Commercially available and usable in the invention Polyquaternium 37 types are: Ultragel® ^® 300 - Cognis GmbH, OriStar PQ37 - Orient Stars LLC, Synthalen® CN - 3V Group, Synthalen® CR - 3V Group, Synthalen® CU - 3V Group, Syntran PC 5320 - Inter Polymer Corporation; Cosmedia® Triple C (Cognis GmbH, INCI: Polyquaternium-37, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Lauryl Glucoside).

In one embodiment of the invention, the polyquaternium-37 is in the form of the commercially available formulation

Therefore, preference is given to an AP / deodorant preparation which generally contains the polyquaternium 37 in a proportion of 0.1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant preparation, ideally 1 to 5% by weight. %.

Interfacial active substance

The preparations according to the invention may contain one or more surface-active substances. The compositions according to the invention contain the surface-active substance (s) in an amount of 0 to 80% by weight, in particular 0 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-% based on the total weight of the composition. In principle, any substance which lowers the surface tension between the aqueous and nonaqueous phases is suitable as the surface-active substance. Surfactant substances include emulsifiers and surfactants.

A suitable emulsifier is in principle any surface-active substance, but in particular substances with an HLB value of 1 to 20 according to the Griffin scale. Each emulsifier is assigned a so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 1 and 20, Griffin scale) indicating whether a preferred water or oil solubility is present. Numbers below 9 preferably indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers over 11 water-soluble, hydrophilic emulsifiers. The HLB value says something about the balance of size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of an emulsifier. The Griffin scale is described in WC Griffin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 1 (1949) 311; WC Griffin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 5 (1954) 249.

The HLB value of an emulsifier can also be calculated from increments, with the HLB increments for the different hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups that make up a molecule of tables (eg BHP Fiedler, Encyclopedia of Pharmaceuticals, Cosmetics and Adjacent Areas, Editio Cantor Verlag, Aulendorf, 4th edition 1996) or the manufacturer's information can be found. The solubility of the emulsifier in the two phases practically determines the type of emulsion. If the emulsifier is better soluble in water, an O / W emulsion is obtained. On the other hand, if the emulsifier has a better solubility in the oil phase, a W / O emulsion is formed under otherwise identical production conditions.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain less than 1 wt .-%, in particular less than 0.5 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.1 wt .-% of a surface-active substance, in particular less than 1 wt. -%, in particular less than 0.5 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.1 wt .-% of an emulsifier. In one embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain no surface-active substance, in particular no emulsifiers.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain a lipophilic phase and less than 1 wt .-%, in particular less than 0.5 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.1 wt .-% of a surfactant. In one embodiment of the invention, the formulations contain a lipophilic phase and no surfactant. Usually, AP / deodorant formulations contain ethylene oxide-containing

Emulsifiers / interface-active substances. However, ethylene oxide is, as mentioned above, ecologically questionable, and there is therefore an effort to avoid this in cosmetic preparations. According to the invention, no ethylene oxide-containing substance is contained in the AP / deodorant preparations. In a preferred embodiment, no emulsifier is present in the AP / deodorant preparations according to the invention. In other embodiments of the present invention, an emulsifier and optional co-emulsifier may be included in the AP / deodorant formulations as long as the latter and the entire formulation do not contain ethylene oxide-containing compounds. If such an emulsifier is contained, it may be the emulsifiers commonly used in cosmetic preparations, which are also used in conventional amounts. For examples of the emulsifiers and coemulsifiers that can be used, reference is made to WO 2008/019773, p. 7, paragraph 5 to p. 12, paragraph 2, with the proviso that they are not emulsifiers and coemulsifiers containing ethylene oxide.

In one embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain at least one alkyloligoglycoside as surface-active substance. C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 6 to 24, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside radical, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of preferably approximately 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Preferred alkyloligoglycosides are compounds of the general formula G _m -R ¹ in which G is a sugar residue having 5 or 6 C atoms, R ^{1 is} a C 6 to C 22 alkyl and / or alkenyl residue in the acetal bond and m is an average value from 1 to 3 represents. Advantageously used as alkyloligoglycoside, for example, lauryl glucoside. Products which are available under the name Plantacare ^® or Plantaren®, a glucosidically bonded C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group containing at an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization is 1 to the second The glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as surface-active substances. According to the invention is a product which is sold under the name Emulgade® ^® PL 68/50 by Cognis Germany GmbH and a 1: 1 mixture of alkyl polyglucosides and fatty alcohols. According to the invention advantageously be used is a mixture of lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerine and water which is commercially available under the name Eumulgin ^® VL 75 miles. Antiperspirant / deodorant active ingredient

According to the invention are suitable as antiperspirant / deodorant active all active ingredients that counteract body odors, these cover or eliminate. Body odors are caused by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, forming unpleasant-smelling degradation products. Suitable antiperspirant / deodorant active compounds are in particular compounds selected from the group consisting of antiperspirants, esterase inhibitors, bactericidal or bacteriostatic agents and / or sweat-absorbing substances.

The antiperspirant / deodorant active or antiperspirant / deodorant actives are / are contained in commonly used amounts, preferably in a proportion of 1 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant preparation, more preferably 5 to 20 Wt .-% and more preferably 10 to 15 wt .-%. It may be a single antiperspirant / deodorant active or it may contain several antiperspirant / deodorant agents. In the latter case, the above percentages are based on the total amount of antiperspirant / deodorant active ingredients contained.

antiperspirants

Antiperspirants are salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. With propylene glycol-1, 2. Aluminiumhydroxyallantoinat, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. With amino acids such as glycine. Preferably, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds are used, e.g. Locron L or ACH-303 50% Solution, Rezal 67 or AZ-7373 Powder, Rezal 36 GC or AZG-7226 50% Solution.

The preparations according to the invention may contain the antiperspirants in amounts of from 1 to 20, preferably from 5 to 20, and in particular from 8 to 20,% by weight, based on the total weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant preparation.

esterase

In the presence of sweat in the armpits, bacteria become extracellular

Enzymes - esterases, preferably proteases and / or lipases - formed in the sweat split esters contained and thereby release odors. Suitable esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors. Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Adipinsäureäuretoethylester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate and zinc glycinate.

The preparations according to the invention may contain the esterase inhibitors in amounts of from 0.01 to 20, preferably from 0.1 to 10, and in particular from 0.3 to 5,% by weight, based on the total weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant preparation.

Bactericidal or bacteriostatic agents

Typical examples of suitable bactericidal or bacteriostatic agents are in particular chitosan and phenoxyethanol. 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) -phenol, which is marketed under the brand name Irgasan® by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proved to be particularly effective. As germ-inhibiting agents are basically all effective against Gram-positive bacteria substances such. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N ^'- (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, ^{^{2,4,4'-trichloro-2'}} - hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro -3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2 ^{'-methylene-bis} (6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4 -Chlorphenoxy) - 1, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4 ^{'-Trichlorcarbanilid} (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol , Glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such. Salicylic acid n-octylamide or salicylic acid n-decylamide.

The preparations according to the invention may contain the bactericidal or bacteriostatic active substances in amounts of 0.01 to 5 and preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the antiperspirant W deodorant preparation. Sweat absorbing substances

As sweat absorbing substances, modified starch such as e.g. Dry FIo Plus (National Starch), silicates, talc and other substances of similar modification that appear to be suitable for sweat absorption. The preparations according to the invention may contain the sweat-absorbing substances in amounts of from 0.1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 20, and in particular from 2 to 8,% by weight, based on the total weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant preparation.

Lipophilic phase

The lipophilic phase is formed according to the invention of wax (s) and / or oils or consists thereof. Preferred is a combination of oils and waxes. The lipophilic phase is preferably present in a proportion of 1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant preparation, ideally 5 to 15% by weight.

(Used synonymously: oil component) The term "oils" are designated water-insoluble, liquid at 30 ⁰ C, organic compounds with a relatively low vapor pressure. The common feature of oils is not their consistent chemical constitution, especially their similar physical consistency.

As oil components, for example, the below-mentioned classes of compounds are suitable, as far as they are liquid at 30 ° C. For example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms (eg. B. Eutanol ^® G), esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols (eg Cetiol ^® Sensoft) or esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ -carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, Behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, Behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate, erucyl erucate and hexyl decyl stearate (Eutanol® G 16 S). In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₃ -C ₃₈ -alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, in particular dioctylmalate, are suitable esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / Triglyceridmisungen based on C ₆ -C ₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils , branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes such as 1, 3-dialkylcyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol, such as dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbetcarbonate based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols (Hydagen® HSP, Sovermol® 750, Sovermol® 1102), silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc. and / or aliphatic or naphthenic Hydrocarbons, such as, for example, mineral oil, petrolatum, petrolatum, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

As further oil body, for example, silicone oils come into question. They can be present as cyclic and / or linear silicone oils. Silicone oils are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are chain and / or netlike linked via oxygen atoms and the remaining valencies of silicon are linked by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. Systematically, the silicone oils are called polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the quantitatively most important compounds of this group and are represented by the following structural formula

are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones are available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights. Advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10 000 from Evonik Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or Decamethylcyclopentasiloxan), which are also referred to as cyclomethicone according to INCI, amino-modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, eg. Polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone) available as various Abil-Wax types from Evonik Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example, cetyidimethicone, hexamethylcyclo-trisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane). Particularly preferred silicones according to the invention are dimethicone and cyclomethicone.

Also suitable as oil components are polycarbonates, as described, for example, in WO 03/041676, to which reference is expressly made. A particularly suitable polycarbonate is under the INCI name Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl / dimethyl carbonates copolymer, which is available as a commercial product Cosmedia® ^® DC from Cognis GmbH.

The dialkyl carbonates and dialkyl ethers may be symmetrical or unsymmetrical, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated and may be prepared by reactions well known in the art.

Hydrocarbons, preferably having a chain length of 8 to 40 carbon atoms, may also be used according to the invention. They may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated. Among them, branched, saturated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alkanes are preferred. Both pure substances and substance mixtures can be used. These are usually substance mixtures of different isomeric compounds. Compositions containing alkanes of 10 to 30, preferably 12 to 20, and most preferably 16 to 20, carbon atoms are particularly suitable, and among these is a mixture of alkanes containing at least 10 weight percent branched alkanes based on the total amount of alkanes contains. Preferably, they are branched, saturated alkanes. Particularly suitable are mixtures of alkanes which contain more than 1% by weight of 5,8-diethyldodecane and / or more than 1% by weight of didecene. Also suitable are esters of 2-propylheptanol with n-octanoic acid, such as, for example, commercially available under the trade name Cetiol®SenSoft (Cognis GmbH). Also suitable are hydrocarbons, such as undecane and tridecane. Also suitable are alkanes, such as the mixtures with the INCI name Conocnut / Palm / Palm Kernel OiI Alkanes (trade name Vegelight 1214 from Biosynthesis). It can be used according to the invention an oil or a mixture of several oil components.

The term wax (synonymously used: wax component) is usually understood to mean all natural or artificially produced substances and mixtures having the following properties: they are of solid to brittle hard consistency, coarse to finely divided, translucent to cloudy and melt above 30 ^° C. without decomposition , They are already slightly above the melting point low viscosity and non-stringy and show a strong temperature-dependent consistency and solubility. According to the invention use is a wax component or a mixture of wax components which melt at 30 ⁰ C or above. Fats and fat-like substances with a waxy consistency can also be used as waxes according to the invention, as long as they have the required melting point. These include fats (triglycerides), as well as natural and synthetic waxes or any mixtures of these substances. Fats are triacylglycerols, ie the triple esters of fatty acids with glycerol. Preferably, they contain saturated, unbranched and unsubstituted fatty acid residues. These may also be mixed esters, ie triple esters of glycerol with different fatty acids. According to the invention, it is possible to use what are known as hardened fats and oils which are obtained by partial hydrogenation. Herbal hardened fats and oils are preferred, e.g. Hardened castor oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, corn oil, olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and coconut fat. Suitable include the triple esters of glycerol with C ₁₂ -C ₆₀ fatty acids and in particular C ₂ -C ₃₆ fatty acids. These include hydrogenated castor oil, a triple ester of glycerol and a hydroxystearic acid, which is commercially available, for example, under the name Cutina® HR. Also suitable are glycerol tristearate, glycerol tribehenate (for. Example, Syncrowax® HRC), glycerol or the known under the name Syncrowax® HGLC triglyceride mixtures, with the proviso that the melting point of the wax component or of the mixture at 30 ⁰ C or above ,

Mono and diglycerides or mixtures of these partial glycerides can be used according to the invention as wax components. The glyceride mixtures which can be used according to the invention include the products Novata AB and Novata B (mixture of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ mono-, di- and triglycerides) marketed by Cognis GmbH, as well as Cutina MD or Cutina GMS (glyceryl stearate).

Other wax components are from the group of C6-C22 fatty acid esters of pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, tripentaerythritol or any mixture this ester, which have a melting point of at least 30 ⁰ C. A preferred pentaerythritol ester mixture consists of a proportion of 5 to 35% by weight of monoester, 20 to 50% by weight of diester and 25 to 50% by weight of triester, and optionally tetraester. Particularly preferred is a content of 10-25% by weight of monoester, 25-40% by weight of diester and 30-45% by weight of triester, and if appropriate tetraester and very particularly preferably 12-19% by weight of monoester, 25-35% by weight of diester and 30-40% by weight of triester and 6-11% by weight of tetraester. To be used according to the invention Pentaerythritsestergemisch counts the marketed by Cognis GmbH product Cutina ^® PES.

The fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention as a wax component include the C ₁₂ -C ₅₀ -fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohols can be obtained from natural fats, oils and waxes such as myristyl alcohol, 1-pentadecanol, cetyl alcohol, 1-heptadecanol, stearyl alcohol, 1-nonadecanol, arachidyl alcohol, 1-heneicosanol, behenyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol or myricyl alcohol. Preferred in accordance with the invention are saturated unbranched fatty alcohols. But also unsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols can be used according to the invention as a wax component, as long as they have the required melting point. Fettalkoholschnitte, as used in the reduction of naturally occurring fats and oils such. As beef tallow, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, linseed oil, castor oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and coconut oil. But it can also synthetic alcohols, eg. As the linear, even-numbered fatty alcohols of the Ziegler synthesis (Alfole) or the partially branched alcohols from the oxo synthesis (Dobanols) can be used. According to the invention particularly preferably suitable are C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, for example, by Cognis GmbH under the name Lanette 18 (C ₁₈ alcohol), Lanette 16 (C ₆ alcohol), Lanette 14 (C ₁₄ alcohol), Lanette O (C ₁₆ ZCi ₈ -AlkOhOl) and Lanette 22 (C ₁₈ / C ₂₂ alcohol) are marketed. Fatty alcohols impart a drier feel to the preparations than triglycerides and are therefore preferred over the latter.

As wax components it is also possible to use C ₁₄ -C ₄₀ -fatty acids or mixtures thereof. These include, for example, myristic, pentadecane, palmitic, margarine, stearic nonadecan, arachin, beehive, lignocerin, cerotin, melissin, eruca and elaeostearic acid and substituted fatty acids, such as. For example, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and the amides or monoethanolamides of the fatty acids, this list has exemplary and not limiting character.

For example, usable natural vegetable waxes, such as Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, Esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, bayberry wax (= Bayberrywax) and animal waxes such. B. beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, wool wax and raffia fat. For the purposes of the invention it may be advantageous to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. The natural waxes usable according to the invention also include the mineral waxes, such as. As ceresin and ozokerite or the petrochemical waxes such. As petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes. As a wax component and chemically modified waxes, especially the hard waxes, such as. As Montanesterwachse, Sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes used. The synthetic waxes which can be used according to the invention include, for example, waxy polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. Vegetable waxes are preferred according to the invention.

The wax component can also be selected from the group of wax esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, tricarboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (for example 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols, and also from the group of the lactides of long-chain hydroxycarboxylic acids. Examples of such esters are the C ₁₆ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearates, C _2o C ₄ o alkyl stearates (eg Kester wax K82H), C _2o C ₄ o dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates or C C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl erucates. Further, Cao-Cs _t j-alkyl beeswax, tristearyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, trilauryl citrate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol di (12-hydroxystearate), stearyl stearate, palmityl stearate, stearyl behenate, cetyl ester, cetearyl behenate and behenyl behenate can be used. Also Fettsäurepartialglyceride, ie technical mono and / or diesters of glycerol with fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms such as glycerol mono / dilaurate, palmitate, - myristate or stearate come into question.

Pearlescent waxes are also suitable as waxes. Pearlescent waxes, in particular for use in surface-active formulations, are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, like for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates having a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

It can be used according to the invention, a wax or a mixture of several waxes.

surfactants

In one embodiment of the invention, the preparations according to the invention contain as surface-active substance at least one surfactant. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, they provide for a lowering of the surface tension of the water, the wetting of the skin, the facilitation of dirt removal and dissolution, a gentle rinsing off and, as desired, for foam regulation. Surfactants are usually understood as surface-active substances which have an HLB value of greater than 20.

Surfactants may be anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Surfactant-containing cosmetic preparations preferably contain at least one anionic surfactant.

Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yloligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (in particular wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO or -SO 3 group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 Carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A favorite zugtes zwitterionic surfactant is known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine fatty acid amide derivative. Also suitable, in particular as co-surfactants, are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkylimino-dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C ₂ -iβ- sarcosine. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. As regards the structure and production of these substances, reference should be made to relevant reviews in this field. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-friendly surfactants are monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkylsulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid, fatty acid, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides and / or mixtures thereof with Alkyloligoglucosidcarboxylaten, Fettsäureglucamide, Alkylamidobetaine, Amphoacetale and or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins or their salts. Anionic surfactants are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic radical. Skin-compatible anionic surfactants are known to those skilled in large numbers from relevant manuals and commercially available. These are, in particular, alkyl sulfates in the form of their alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salts, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl isethionates, acylsarcosinates, acyltaurines having linear alkyl or acyl groups having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and sulfosuccinates and acylglutamates in the form of their alkali metal or ammonium salts. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether ) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acylaspartates, alkyl oligogluco sidsulfate, protein fatty acid condensates (in particular vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. Quaternary ammonium compounds can be used in particular as cationic surfactants. Preference is given to ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as Alkyltrimethylarnmoniumchloride, Dialkyldimethyl- ammonium chloride and Trialkylmethylarnmoniumchloride, z. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Furthermore, the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, such as the sold under the trademark Stepantex ^® dialkyl ammonium methosulfates and Methylhydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkylammoniumm ethosulfate and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart ^® series, can be used as cationic surfactants. The term "esterquats" is generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known substances which are prepared by the relevant methods of organic chemistry. Further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.

In addition to the constituents mentioned, other ingredients customary in cosmetic preparations and in particular antiperspirant / deodorant formulations may be present in conventional proportions. These include e.g. Preservatives, biogenic agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, antioxidants, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, hydrotropes, solubilizers, perfume oils, dyes, pigments, UV filters, etc.

The antiperspirant / deodorant preparations according to the invention usually contain the further constituents in amounts of <25% by weight, in particular <20% by weight, based on the total weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant preparation.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, mixtures of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol (as available, for example, under the trade name Euxyl PE 9010) or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and those described in Appendix 6, Part A and B. of the Cosmetics Regulation listed further substance classes. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the preservative is selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, organic acids and mixtures thereof, optionally in combination with pentanediol and / or ethylhexylglycerol. In one embodiment of the invention, the preparations according to the invention contain as further constituent at least one biogenic active ingredient. Examples of biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as B. Prunusextrakt, Bambaranussextrakt and vitamin complexes to understand. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparations according to the invention contain as biogenic active ingredient at least one compound selected from vitamins, allantoin, bisabolol and plant extracts. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparations according to the invention comprise as biogenic active ingredient at least one compound selected from tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acids and their fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA Acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as. Aloe vera, Prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the invention, the antiperspirant / deodorant preparations according to the invention contain as further constituent at least one thickener.

Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, especially xanthan gum, guar guar, agar-agar, alginates and Tyloses, carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and bentonites such. B. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox).

Examples of insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) -propionic acid ethyl ester), which is sold under the name Insect Repellent® 3535 by Merck KGaA is sold, as well as Butylacetylaminopropionate in question.

As perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, resins and balsams. Furthermore, animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum and synthetic fragrance compounds of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone type, Alcohols and hydrocarbons in question.

The term pigment includes particles of any shape which are white or colored, organic or inorganic, insoluble in the formulations and serve the purpose of coloring the preparation. In a preferred embodiment, inorganic pigments are used, metal oxides are particularly preferred.

Examples of inorganic pigments are: titanium dioxide, optionally surface-coated, zirconium or cerium oxides and zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) and chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrates and iron (III) blue, metal powder such as aluminum powder or copper powder. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigment is selected from the inorganic pigments, preferably from the metal oxides. In a preferred embodiment, the pigment is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof. The pigments can be present both individually and in mixtures. Preferred for the purposes of the present invention are pigment mixtures of white pigments (for example kaolin, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide) and inorganic color pigments (for example iron oxide pigments, chromium oxides), where the pigments may be coated (coated) or uncoated , Among the color pigments, iron oxides are particularly preferred. Advantageous in the context of the present invention, the pigment or pigments can also be selected from the group of effect pigments, which of the cosmetic preparation in addition to the pure color an additional property - such. B. an angular dependence of the color (iridescent, flop), gloss (not surface gloss) or texture - confer. Such effect pigments are advantageously used according to the invention in addition to one or more white and / or color pigments.

The most important group of effect pigments are the luster pigments, which according to DIN 55944: 2003-11 include the metallic effect pigments and the pearlescent pigments. Some special effect pigments can not be assigned to these two groups, eg. As platelet-shaped graphite, platelet-shaped iron oxide and micronized titanium dioxide, wherein micronized titanium dioxide produces no gloss effect, but an angle-dependent light scattering effect. The luster pigments according to DIN 55943: 2001-10 are predominantly platelet-shaped effect pigments. Parallel oriented luster pigments show a characteristic shine. The optical effect of luster pigments is based on the directed reflection on metallic particles (metallic effect pigments), on transparent particles with high refractive index (pearlescent pigments) or on the phenomenon of interference (interference pigments) (DIN 55944: 2003-11). Examples of preferred according to the invention Commercial effect pigments are: Timiron and # 174; from Merck, Iriodin and # 174; from Merck (pearl and color gloss pigments for decorative technical applications), Xirallic and # 174; from Merck (color intensive crystals effect pigments).

Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention may advantageously also contain organic color pigments, ie. H. organic dyes which are practically insoluble in the preparation. According to DIN 55944: 1990-04, organic pigments can be classified according to chemical aspects into azo pigments and polycyclic pigments as well as according to color aspects into colored or black pigments. Organic white pigments are of no practical importance. Within the meaning of the present invention, the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. The preparations according to the invention may contain, for example, from 0.1 to 40% by weight of pigments, based on the total weight of the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparation.

It is also possible that the preparation according to the invention contains one or more dyes. The dyes can be of both synthetic and natural origin. A list of suitable dyes can be found in EP 1 371 359 A2, p. 8, lines 25-57, p. 9 and p. 10, and p. 11, lines 1 to 54, to which reference is hereby explicitly made. The preparations according to the invention usually contain 0.01 to 5, preferably 0.1 to 1, 0% by weight of dyes, based on the total weight of the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparation. The inventive preparations may, for example, a total amount of dyes and pigments in the range of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparation. Suitable dyes and pigments are, in particular, the dyes and pigments approved in accordance with Annex IV of the Commission Directive (in the version: Commission Directive 2007/22 / EC of 17 April 2007 amending Council Directive 76/768 / EEC, concerning cosmetic products, for the purposes of adapting Annexes IV and VI thermo technical progress), to which explicit reference is hereby made.

According to the invention, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of releasing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat, are suitable as UV light protection filters at room temperature. UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Typical oil-soluble UV-B filters or broad-spectrum UV A / B filters are, for example: > 3-Benzylidencampher or 3-Benzylidennorcampher (Mexoryl SDS 20) and its derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1

> 3- (4 ^l -Trimethylammonium) benzylidenebornan-2-one methylsulfate (Mexoryl SO)

> 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethine) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo [2.2.1] heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid) and salts (Mexoryl SX)

> 3- (4'-sulfo) -benzylidene-boman-2-one and salts (Mexoryl SL)

> Polymer of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxobrom-3-ylidene) methyl} benzyl] acrylamide (Mexoryl SW)

> 2- (2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- (2-methyl-3- (1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- (trimethylsilyloxy) disiloxanyl) propyl) phenol (Mexoryl SL )

> 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

> Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris [p- (2-triazine) ethylhexyl-oxycarbonyl) anilino] -1,3,5-triazine (Uvinul T 150) as described in EP 0818450 A1 or 4,4 ^' - [(6- [4- (1, 1-dimethylethyl) amino] -carbonyl) phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl) diimino] bis (benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb® HEB);

> 2,2 (-Methylene bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (Tinosorb M);

> 2,4-bis [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxyphenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (Tinosorb S);

Propan-1, 3-diones, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives as described in EP 0694521 B1;

Dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate (Parsol SLX).

Suitable water-soluble UV filters are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; > 2,2 (- (1,4-phenylene) bis (1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid, monosodium salt) (Neo Heliopan AP)

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.

As a typical UV-A filter, in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione and also enamine compounds as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF) and benzoic acid, 2- [4- (Diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl], hexyl ester (Uvinul® A plus).

Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester. Advantageously, such combinations are provided with water-soluble filters, e.g. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium combined.

Particularly suitable as UV light protection filters are those according to Annex VII of the Commission Directive (in the version of Commission Directive 2005/9 / EC of 28 January 2005 amending Council Directive 76/768 / EEC, concerning cosmetic purposes, for the purposes of adapting Annexes VII thereof to technical progress) substances, which are explicitly referred to here.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble photoprotective pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are in particular zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. As salts silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and also for decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T, Eusolex® T-2000, Eusolex® T-Aqua, Eusolex® AVO, Eusolex® T-ECO, Eusolex® T-OLEO and Eusolex® TS (Merck). Typical examples are zinc oxides such as Zinc Oxide neutral, Zinc Oxide NDM (Symrise) or Z-Cote® (BASF) or SUNZnO-AS and SUNZnO-NAS (Sunjun Chemical Co. Ltd.). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. In sunscreens, so-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used. Preferably, micronized zinc oxide is used. Further suitable UV light protection filters are the review by P. Finkel in SÖFW Journal 122, 8/1996, pp. 543-548 and Parf. Kosm. Volume 80, No. 3/1999, pp. 10 to 16.

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (eg carotene, carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and its glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinsulfoximine, bithine sulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very small amounts doses (eg pmol to mol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbic acid) bylphosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and benzylic resin, rutinic acid and their derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, Butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiakolic acid,

Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO4) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene, trans-stilbene ) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

As stabilizers metal salts of fatty acids, such as. For example, magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

Hydrotropes such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols contemplated herein preferably have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen.

The other constituents of the preparations (such as preservatives, cosmetic agents, UV filters, etc.) are added either via the water phase or via the lipophilic phase, depending on their solubility.

Wässriqer share:

The preparations according to the invention may usually contain 40 to 85, more preferably 50 to

75 wt .-%, aqueous content, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The preparations according to the invention are generally present as emulsions, generally in the form of gels or gel creams (non-transparent gels). Suitable forms of the preparations according to the invention are e.g. Antiperspirant / deosprays, antiperspirant / deolotion, antiperspirant / deoroll-ons, antiperspirant wDeogels, antiperspirant / deodorants or antiperspirant wedge sticks.

Another object relates to the use of Polyquaternium 37 for the production of ethylene oxide-free cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations, in particular of cosmetic or pharmaceutical emulsions. Another object of the invention relates to the use of Polyquaternium 37 for the preparation of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations containing less than 1 wt .-%, in particular less than 0.5 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.1 wt .-% of a containing surface-active substance. Polyquaternium 37 is particularly suitable for the preparation of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations containing no surface-active substances.

Another object of the invention relates to the use of Polyquaternium 37 for the preparation of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations containing a lipophilic phase.

Another object of the invention relates to the use of Polyquaternium 37 for the preparation of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations containing a lipophilic phase and the less than 1 wt .-%, in particular less than 0.5 wt .-%, preferably less than 0, 1 wt .-% of a surface-active substance.

Another object of the invention relates to the use of Polyquaternium 37 for the production of ethylene oxide-free preparations selected from the group consisting of antiperspirant WDeosprays, antiperspirant / Deolotionen, antiperspirant / Deoroll-ons, AntitranspiranWDeogelen, antiperspirant / Deocremes or antiperspirant / Deostiften.

Examples

The following examples are intended to explain the present invention in more detail. All data are in% by weight based on the cosmetic preparation.

Preparation of the Antiperspirant Z Deodorant Preparations:

Swelling in the water phase with Polyquaternium 37 took place at room temperature.

Meanwhile, depending on the composition, the lipophilic phase was heated to 60 ^° C. and then added with stirring to the Polyquaternium 37 gel. Of the

Antiperspirant / deodorant active ingredient was added to the system at a temperature less than 45 ° C. The formulation was not preserved and the pH was between 3.00 and

4:50.

Evaluation of the AP / Deo formulations:

The formulations were stored for 4 weeks at room temperature (RT) and 40 ^° C.

The evaluation of the formulations was carried out as follows:

1 = stable

2 = phase stable, but the macroscopic image is inhomogeneous (no oil or water separation)

3 = low water or oil separation

4 = unstable (clearly visible water or oil separation)

Sensory evaluation of EO free AP / Deo formulations:

The respective formulation was applied in a defined amount on the forearm and rubbed evenly until the first drawing. Waiting until completely absorbed was about 3 - 5 minutes and then the skin feeling determined. A panel of 12 experts carried out the sensory evaluation. The following 6 questions were asked

Criteria related to the final feeling on the skin:

Distributability (1 = very good, 7 = very bad)

Tackiness (1 = very low, 7 = very strong) waxy (1 = very low, 7 = blunt) -

Smoothness (1 = high smoothness, 7 = blunt)

Softness (1 = high softness feeling, 7 = rough)

Care (1 = high care feeling; 7 = unkempt care) Tab. 1: Composition and evaluation of inventive AP / Deo preparations

Examples 1 to 5 according to the invention show very good stability and advantageous sensory properties (low tackiness, high softness, etc.). Tab. 2: Composition and evaluation of an AP / Deo preparations according to the prior art and of formulations according to the invention with Polyquaternium 37

As a comparative example, an antiperspirant deodorant formulation was selected which does not contain polyquaternium 37 but ethylene oxide-free emulsifier (sodium stearoylglutamate and glyceryl stearate citrate). It was found that the polyquaternium 37-containing antiperspirant / deodorant preparations according to the invention of Examples 1 to 5 without an emulsifier were not only more stable than the comparison formulation, but at the same time had improved sensor technology. The antiperspirant deodorant effect remained and environmental concerns over ethylene oxide could be avoided. Examples 6 and 7 according to the invention also showed improved stability as compared with the prior art (Comparative Example 1), as well as a reduced stickiness and a high care feeling.

Furthermore, antiperspirant / deodorant formulations according to the invention were prepared and compared with antiperspirant / deodorant formulations containing ethylene oxide-containing substances: as a comparison, a mixture of Polyquaternium 37 (about 50% polymer content) with diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and Capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol dicarpylate / dicaprate) and tridecylpolyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6). This mixture is commercially available, for example, under the trade names Salcare SC 96 or Rheocare CHT E. As can be seen from Table 3, only the preparations according to the invention have the viscosities required for the formulation as antiperspirant / deodorant.

Tab. 3:

^* approx. 50% polyquaternium 37 Inventive AP / Deo preparation

^* Cosmedia® Triple C (Cognis GmbH) 50% by weight Polyquaternium - 37; 2% by weight of lauryl glucoside, 48% by weight of dicaprylyl carbonates)

Claims

claims

1. Ethylene oxide-free antiperspirant / deodorant preparations containing: a. at least one antiperspirant / deodorant active, b. at least one quaternary polymer with the INCI name

Polyquaternium 37.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, comprising: a. at least one antiperspirant / deodorant active, b. at least one quaternary polymer with the INCI name

Polyquaternium 37, and c. a lipophilic phase formed from liquid oil and / or wax.

3. Preparations according to claim 1 or 2, comprising:

a. 1 to 30% by weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant active ingredients, b. 0.1-10% by weight of the quaternary polymers having the INCI name

Polyquaternium 37, and c. 1-20% by weight of the lipophilic phase,

in each case based on the total weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant preparation.

4. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, comprising:

a. 5-20, preferably 10-15% by weight of the antiperspirant / deodorant active, b. 1-5 wt .-% of the quaternary polymer with the INCI name

Polyquaternium 37, and c. 5-15% by weight of the lipophilic phase,

5. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims in the form of gels or gel creams.

6. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims in the form of antiperspirant / deodorant, antiperspirant / deodorant, antiperspirant / deodorant-ons, antiperspirant / deogels, antiperspirant / deodorants or antiperspirant / deodorant sticks.

7. Use of Polyquaternium 37 for the preparation of ethylene oxide-free cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations.

8. Use of Polyquaternium 37 for the preparation of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations containing no surface-active compounds.

9. Use of Polyquaternium 37 for the preparation of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations containing a lipophilic phase.

10. Use of Polyquaternium 37 for the preparation of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations which contain no surface-active compounds and which contain a lipophilic phase

11. Use of Polyquaternium 37 for the preparation of ethylene oxide-free preparations selected from the group consisting of antiperspirant / deodorant, antiperspirant / deodorant, antiperspirant / deodorant-ons, antiperspirant / deogels, antiperspirant and antiperspirant / antiperspirant sticks.