EP2305867B1 - Procédé et système de conception pour détermination d'une jauge d'article tricoté - Google Patents

Procédé et système de conception pour détermination d'une jauge d'article tricoté Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2305867B1
EP2305867B1 EP09773333.1A EP09773333A EP2305867B1 EP 2305867 B1 EP2305867 B1 EP 2305867B1 EP 09773333 A EP09773333 A EP 09773333A EP 2305867 B1 EP2305867 B1 EP 2305867B1
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Prior art keywords
stitches
height
width
size
knitted
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EP09773333.1A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2305867A1 (fr
EP2305867A4 (fr
Inventor
Yoshifumi Iwamoto
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B37/00—Auxiliary apparatus or devices for use with knitting machines
    • D04B37/02—Auxiliary apparatus or devices for use with knitting machines with weft knitting machines

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the determination of the number of stitches of a knitted article. More specifically, the present invention relates to determining the number of stitches in the width direction, in other words, the number of needles, as well as the number of stitches in the height direction, in other words, the number of knitting courses, to produce a knitted article in approximately the target size.
  • the applicant of the present invention has proposed a technique for knitting test pieces that are smaller than an actual knitted article, in other words, texture samples, to determine the gauge of the knitted article (Patent Document 1: JP 2676182 ).
  • the term "gauge” means the number of stitches per width or height of a knitted article, and, "stitches/cm,” for example, is used as the unit length thereof.
  • the plurality of texture samples are knitted under different knitting conditions, to select the optimal texture sample.
  • the knitting width is constant. Then, the number of stitches per width or height of the selected sample is measured to determine the gauges of knitted fabrics.
  • the gauges are thus determined and the width and height of the knitted article are specified based on pattern data of the target knitted article, the number of needles is therefore obtained by multiplying the width by the gauge in the width direction. In addition, the number of knitting courses is obtained by multiplying the height by the gauge in the height direction.
  • Patent Document 1 alone does not always determine optimal gauges. Without the optimal gauges, the knitted article cannot fit into a predetermined size, and consequently, the number of knitting courses needs to be increased or decreased in the knitting data after knitting the actual article. Especially when obtaining a sweater by joining cylindrical knitted fabrics together seamlessly, the sleeves, bodies, and other parts with different aspect ratios are knitted simultaneously. For this reason, the aspect ratios of the texture samples are different from the aspect ratios of these parts.
  • the size of each of the knitted fabrics in the height direction changes depending on the aspect ratio of each knitted fabric, even if the other conditions stay the same. In addition to this, the size of each knitted fabric in the width direction also changes depending on the aspect ratio of each knitted fabric, but the impact of the aspect ratio is small.
  • Patent Document 1 JP 2676182
  • EP 0 652 317 discloses the preambles of claims 1 and 4.
  • An object of the present invention is to enable determination of the number of knitting courses and the number of needles, in other words, the knitting width, for producing a knitted article in approximately the target size.
  • the present invention is a method for converting pattern data of a knitted article into the number of stitches, the method having: a knitting step, using a flat knitting machine, of knitting a plurality of samples with different aspect ratios whereby the aspect ratio is defined as the ratio between the height and the width of the knitted fabric; a measuring step of measuring the size of stitches of each sample in at least a height direction; a step of obtaining a relationship between an aspect ratio and the size of the stitches in the height direction of a knitted fabric, on the basis of the aspect ratio and the size of the stitches in the height direction of each sample; and a determination step of determining the number of knitting courses for a target height of each of parts of the knitted article, on the basis of the obtained relationship between the aspect ratio and the size of the stitches in the height direction of the knitted fabric, as well as an aspect ratio and a target height of each part in the pattern data.
  • the present invention is a system for converting pattern data of a knitted article ,using a flat knitting machine, into the number of stitches, the system having: means for obtaining a relationship between an aspect ratio and the size of stitches in a height direction of a knitted fabric, on the basis of an aspect ratio and the size of stitches in a height direction of each of a plurality of samples with different aspect ratios whereby the aspect ratio is defined as the ratio between the height and the width of the knitted fabric; means for storing the obtained relationship; and determination means for determining the number of knitting courses for a target height of each of parts of the knitted article, on the basis of the obtained relationship between the aspect ratio and the size of the stitches in the height direction of the knitted fabric, as well as an aspect ratio and a target height of each part in the pattern data.
  • a program for converting pattern data of a knitted article, using a flat knitting machine, into the number of stitches, the program causing a computer to function as: means for obtaining a relationship between an aspect ratio and the size of stitches in a height direction of a knitted fabric, on the basis of an aspect ratio and the size of stitches in a height direction of each of a plurality of samples with different aspect ratios whereby the aspect ratio is defined as the ratio between the height and the width of the knitted fabric; means for storing the obtained relationship; and determination means for determining the number of knitting courses for a target height of each part in the pattern data.
  • the descriptions of the method for determining the number of stitches apply to the design system and the design program, and the descriptions of the design system apply to the method for determining the number of stitches and the design program.
  • the subscript "g” of the symbols represents “gauge,” and the subscript “s” represents “size.” Since the size of stitches is inversely proportional to gauge, gauge may be used in place of the size of stitches.
  • Aspect ratio is a ratio between, for example, the height and width of a knitted fabric.
  • the size of stitches is dependent upon the ratio between the width and height of a knitted fabric.
  • a correction function expressing the size of the stitches can be obtained by knitting a plurality of samples that are different in the ratio mentioned above.
  • the required numbers of knitting courses and needles are defined based on a target height and width for each part of a knitted article, the size of the stitches obtained from the samples, and the correction function.
  • the plurality of samples may be connected to one another by excess yarn.
  • the size of the stitches in the height direction may be obtained by, for example, measuring the number of stitches per predetermined height length or by measuring the total height of a predetermined number of stitches. Since a known method is used as the method for knitting the samples, a design device and the design program may not be involved in creating the knitting data of the samples.
  • the pattern data is used for specifying the shape and size of the designed knitted article, the size being the height and the width.
  • the determination step of determining the number of knitting courses and the number of needles for each of the parts :
  • This method assumes that the width of the stitches is inversely proportional to the height of the stitches. Although this assumption is not necessarily realized, this method allowed the inventors to knit the parts that had approximately the target width and height and various shapes. Note that the ratio between the number of needles of each part and the number of knitting courses of each part can be used as a substitute for the ratio between the target width and height of each part.
  • the correction function correct only the size of the stitches in the height direction.
  • the impact of the ratio between the width and height of the knitted fabric is particularly large on the height of the stitches, and thus corrects only the height of the stitches.
  • FIGs. 1 to 4 show an embodiment.
  • reference numeral 2 represents a design system that has a color monitor 4, input keyboard 6, and a mouse 8, and is connected to the internet by a LAN, which is not shown.
  • the design system 2 is also provided with a disc driver that can be read from a CD-ROM or other storage medium, and comprises an appropriate computer.
  • Reference numeral 10 represents a flat knitting machine having two or four needle beds.
  • Reference numeral 16 represents a finishing apparatus that carries out, for example, cleaning, fulling, or steam processing.
  • a size measuring step 18 measures the width and height, in other words, the width and length, of test samples 12 to 14 knitted using the flat knitting machine 10.
  • the measured width and height of each of the plurality of samples are input to a correction function generating unit 20 of the design system 2.
  • the correction function generating unit 20 generates and stores therein correction functions for correcting the size of the stitches, based on a ratio between the width and height of each of the plurality of samples.
  • the functions express combinations of knitting conditions, such as a target loop length per stitch, the type of yarn including the material and thickness of the yarn, and the finished style. Note that, instead of inputting a width Xs and height Ys of each sample into the correction function generating unit, a height direction gauge Yg and width direction gauge Xg of a knitted fabric of each sample may be input.
  • a design unit 19 of the design system 2 designs a knitted article based on the inputs from the keyboard 6, mouse 8 or LAN that is not shown. There are two stages in designing the knitted article. In the first stage, the size of each part is input in the form of the height and width. The sizes input in this stage are specified by unit length in cm or inch, and the data obtained in this stage is called "pattern data.”
  • the design unit 19 then converts the pattern data into design data of the knitted article, or converts the design data into knitting data that can be processed immediately by the flat knitting machine 10. In this process, the width and height of each part are converted into the knitting width of each part, in other words, the number of needles to be used in knitting, and into the number of knitting courses of each part, based on the correction functions and the size of the stitches in each sample.
  • the design unit 19 also outputs the knitting data on the test samples 12 to 14 to the flat knitting machine 10 and cause the flat knitting machine 10 to knit these samples 12 to 14.
  • the test samples 12 to 14 are different in aspect ratio between the width and height of each knitted fabric. For examples, these test samples are common in the number of knitting courses and different in the number of needles.
  • Each of the test samples 12 to 14 is in the shape of, for example, a rectangle but may be in a different shape.
  • the same type of yarn is used in the test samples 12 to 14 under the same knitting conditions.
  • the target loop length per stitch in the test samples 12 to 14 is also the same, as well as the finishing conditions obtained by the finishing apparatus 16.
  • the design unit 19 When the type of yarn, the finished style, and the knitting conditions are changed, the design unit 19 outputs new knitting data on the test samples 12 to 14.
  • the design system 2 and the flat knitting machine 10 may be connected by the LAN, or may be connected manually by using a floppy diskTM or the like.
  • Fig. 2 shows correction functions 22 to 24, wherein the horizontal axis represents the ratio between the width Xs and the height Ys of each knitted fabric, and the vertical axis on the left-hand side represents the ratio between the width direction gauge Xg and the height direction gauge Yg, which is also the ratio between the size of stitches in the height direction and the size of stitches in the width direction.
  • the vertical axis on the right-hand side represents relative values of the gauges on the basis of the sample whose ratio between the width and height in the knitted fabric is approximately 1, and shows two types of data, the width direction gauge Xg and the height direction gauge Yg.
  • the number of needles (the number of stitches in the knitting course direction) is 30.
  • the middle samples has 60 needles.
  • the right-side sample has 120 needles.
  • the number of knitting courses for these samples is 80.
  • the data of the samples are shown in Table 1.
  • the impact of the ratio between the width and height of each knitted fabric is large on the height direction gauge Yg but small on the width direction gauge Xg.
  • the three correction functions 22 to 24 are shown by curves in Fig. 2 , these functions may be shown by curves or straight lines.
  • the correction function 22 corrects Xg/Yg based on Xs/Ys
  • the correction function 23 corrects Yg based on Xs/Ys.
  • correction functions 22 to 24 may be stored as functions expressing the ratio between the width Xs and height Ys of each knitted fabric as variables, or may be stored in the form of a table having the variables as the heading.
  • Table 1 The number of knitting courses The number of stitches (the number of needles) Xs (cm) Ys (cm) Xs/Ys Width gauge C (stitches/cm) Height gauge D (stitches/cm) Xg/Yg Z 80 30 8.4 14.7 0.57 3.57 5.44 0.67 80 60 16.7 14.3 1.17 3.59 5.59 0.64 80 120 33.8 14.1 2.40 3.55 5.67 0.63
  • each of the samples was knitted with wool yarn by a flat knitting method using a flat knitting machine having twelve needles per inch, to obtain a loop length per loop of 6.0 mm.
  • the steam processing and cleaning/drying were carried out as the finishing processing.
  • the gauges in other words, the number of stitches per predetermined length, are obtained based on the heights and widths of the knitted fabrics, and the obtained gauges are applied to the entire knitted fabrics.
  • the optimal gauges are not always obtained with the parts having different aspect ratios.
  • one of the characteristics of the present invention is to obtain the relationship between the aspect ratio of each knitted fabric and the gauges, or the size of the stitches, to establish the optimal gauges that correct the impact of the aspect ratios.
  • Fig. 3 shows a gauge correction algorithm. Correction here means to correct the impact of the ratio between the width and height of each knitted fabric during the step of converting the size in the pattern data into the number of knitting courses or the number of needles in each part of each knitted fabric.
  • the design system 2 stores the data, such as the knitting conditions of each knitted fabric, the type of yarn including the thickness and material of the yarn, and the finishing conditions.
  • the design system 2 also stores the correction functions with respect to combinations of these data items.
  • the correction function generating unit 20 outputs, to the design unit 19, information indicating that a new test sample is required, and then the design unit 19 generates the knitting data on the test samples 12 to 14.
  • the knitting conditions, the finishing conditions, and the type of yarn are used in the actual production of a knitted article.
  • the flat knitting machine 10 uses these conditions to knit the three types of test samples 12 to 14 having different aspect ratios. These samples 12 to 14 are subjected to the same finishing as the actual knitted article by using the finishing apparatus 16, to manually measure the width and the height of each test sample. The obtained measurement results are input to the correction function generating unit 20.
  • the width Xs and the height Ys of each knitted fabric may be input directly or may be input after converting them into the number of stitches, per length, in other words, the gauges.
  • the correction function generating unit 20 generates the correction functions shown in Fig. 2 on the basis of the input data, and stores these correction functions along with the type of yarn, the knitting conditions, and the finishing conditions.
  • the width Xs and the height Ys of each of the parts are obtained based on the pattern data, and the required numbers of knitting courses and needles are determined.
  • the ratio Z is obtained based on the Xs/Ys from the correction curves shown in Fig. 2 .
  • Xg ⁇ Yg ⁇ C ⁇ D is established.
  • deleting Yg from Equation (1) accomplishes Equation (3)
  • deleting Xg from Equation (1) accomplishes Equation (4).
  • gauges C and D for example, those of the sample whose ratio between the width and height of the knitted fabrics is close to that of each of the parts are used.
  • the gauges Xg, Yg are obtained, the number of needles and the number of knitting courses are obtained from the widths and heights of the parts. Furthermore, The width and height of the stitches may be obtained in place of the gauges Xg, Yg.
  • the actual knitted article is knitted based on the obtained numbers of knitting courses and needles.
  • the program with which the design system 2 executes the processes shown in Fig. 3 is the knit design program of the embodiment, which is supplied to the design system 2 via a storage medium such as a CD-ROM, or via a carrier wave.
  • FIG. 4 shows how the height and width of each part are determined.
  • a knitted article 40 shown in Fig. 4 is constituted by a front body 41, rear body that is not shown, and sleeves 44, 45.
  • Reference numeral 42 represents a rib hem and reference numeral 46 a cuff, which are both subjected to rib knitting.
  • the front body 41 has therein a pattern 43 having different colors, which is knitted by the same type of yarn. Knitting width X1 and height Y1 of the front body are defined as shown in Fig. 4 , for example. Width X2 and height Y2 of each of the sleeves 44, 45 are defined as shown in Fig. 4 .
  • the knitting width X2 is the intermediate value between the value of the armhole and the value of the cuff 46.
  • Fig. 4 because the knitted article 40 is knitted tubularly, a plurality of tubular knitted fabrics with different aspect ratios are knitted as the test samples.
  • Fig. 4 illustrates an example of tubular knitting
  • the total of four parts of the front body, the rear body, and the right and left sleeves of the knitted article 40 can be knitted integrally.
  • the test samples are knitted into a flat knitted fabric instead of a tube, many times with different aspect ratios for the knitted fabrics.
  • the number of knitting courses and the number of needles of a knitted article can be determined by correcting the impact of the aspect ratios of the knitted fabrics on the size of stitches. Therefore, a knitted article in the size in the pattern data can be knitted more easily.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)

Claims (4)

  1. Procédé pour déterminer le nombre de mailles dans un article tricoté (40) en convertissant des données de motif de l'article tricoté (40) en ledit nombre de mailles, le procédé étant caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend :
    une étape de tricotage consistant à tricoter, en utilisant une machine à tricoter à plat, une pluralité d'échantillons (12, 13, 14) avec différents facteurs de forme, le facteur de forme étant défini comme étant le rapport entre la hauteur et la largeur du tissu tricoté ;
    une étape de mesure consistant à mesurer la taille de mailles de chaque échantillon (12, 13, 14) dans au moins une direction de hauteur ;
    une étape consistant à obtenir une relation entre un facteur de forme et la taille des mailles dans la direction de la hauteur d'un tissu tricoté, sur la base du facteur de forme et de la taille des mailles dans la direction de la hauteur de chaque échantillon (12, 13, 14) ; et
    une étape de détermination consistant à déterminer le nombre de courses de tricotage pour une hauteur cible de chacune de plusieurs parties de l'article à tricoter (40), sur la base de la relation obtenue entre le facteur de forme et la taille des mailles dans la direction de la hauteur du tissu tricoté, ainsi que d'un facteur de forme et d'une hauteur cible de chaque partie dans les données de motif.
  2. Procédé pour déterminer le nombre de mailles dans un article tricoté (40) selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que l'étape consistant à obtenir une relation obtient une fonction de correction pour corriger la taille des mailles dans au moins la direction de la hauteur sur la base du facteur de forme du tissu tricoté, et en ce que l'étape de détermination :
    - convertit un rapport entre la largeur et la hauteur cible de chaque partie en un rapport Z entre la hauteur et la largeur des mailles, sur la base de la fonction de correction ;
    - obtient la hauteur des mailles de chaque partie, sur la base de la racine carrée d'un rapport entre le produit de la largeur et de la hauteur des mailles, obtenu à partir de l'un quelconque de la pluralité d'échantillons (12, 13, 14), et du rapport Z entre la hauteur et la largeur des mailles ;
    - obtient la largeur des mailles de chaque partie, sur la base de la racine carrée d'un produit entre la taille des mailles dans la direction de la largeur et la taille des mailles dans la direction de la hauteur, obtenu à partir de l'un quelconque de la pluralité d'échantillons (12, 13, 14), et du rapport Z entre la hauteur et la largeur des mailles ; et
    - détermine le nombre d'aiguilles et le nombre de courses de tricotage de chaque partie, sur la base de la largeur et de la hauteur des mailles de chaque partie, ainsi que de la largeur et de la hauteur cible de chaque partie.
  3. Procédé pour déterminer le nombre de mailles dans un article tricoté (40) selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que la fonction de correction corrige seulement la taille des mailles dans la direction de la hauteur.
  4. Système de conception (2) pour un article tricoté (40) à tricoter en utilisant une machine à tricoter à plat pour convertir des données de motif de l'article tricoté (40) en ledit nombre de mailles, le système (2) étant caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend :
    des moyens pour obtenir une relation entre un facteur de forme et la taille de mailles dans une direction de hauteur d'un tissu tricoté, sur la base d'un facteur de forme et de la taille de mailles dans la direction de la hauteur de chacun d'une pluralité d'échantillons (12, 13, 14) avec différents facteurs de forme, le facteur de forme étant défini comme étant le rapport entre la hauteur et la largeur du tissu tricoté ;
    des moyens pour mémoriser la relation obtenue ; et
    des moyens de détermination pour déterminer le nombre de courses de tricotage pour une hauteur cible de chacune de plusieurs parties de l'article tricoté (40), sur la base de la relation obtenue entre le facteur de forme et la taille des mailles dans la direction de la hauteur du tissu tricoté, ainsi que d'un facteur de forme et d'une hauteur cible de chaque partie dans les données de motif.
EP09773333.1A 2008-07-03 2009-06-22 Procédé et système de conception pour détermination d'une jauge d'article tricoté Active EP2305867B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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JP2008174548 2008-07-03
PCT/JP2009/061322 WO2010001755A1 (fr) 2008-07-03 2009-06-22 Procédé, système de conception et programme de conception pour détermination d'une jauge d'article tricoté

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EP2305867A1 EP2305867A1 (fr) 2011-04-06
EP2305867A4 EP2305867A4 (fr) 2015-03-04
EP2305867B1 true EP2305867B1 (fr) 2016-06-01

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EP (1) EP2305867B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP5595912B2 (fr)
CN (1) CN102084050B (fr)
WO (1) WO2010001755A1 (fr)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP6109105B2 (ja) * 2014-03-18 2017-04-05 株式会社島精機製作所 ニットデザインシステムとニットデザイン方法

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5530477A (en) * 1978-08-25 1980-03-04 Sharp Kk Electronic control apparatus of knitting machine
JP2676182B2 (ja) * 1993-11-08 1997-11-12 株式会社島精機製作所 ニット製品の生産方法
JP2005015958A (ja) * 2003-06-26 2005-01-20 Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd 編地見本の作成方法、ニットデザイン方法、糸径測定装置、及び編地見本の作成装置

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EP2305867A1 (fr) 2011-04-06
EP2305867A4 (fr) 2015-03-04
CN102084050B (zh) 2012-06-13
JP5595912B2 (ja) 2014-09-24
WO2010001755A1 (fr) 2010-01-07
JPWO2010001755A1 (ja) 2011-12-15
CN102084050A (zh) 2011-06-01

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