EP2160110B1 - Bonded structure for use in garments - Google Patents

Description

Technical area

The invention relates to a composite for use in a garment according to the preamble of patent claim 1.

State of the art

The BE 706 118 A shows a parallel arrangement of Kettgamen. The DE 875 032 C discloses a use of a composite as a plack.

Garments worn for formal occasions can be rented as leasing apparel. Garments of this type are subjected to high levels of material stress due to multiple care treatments performed. In particular, the repeated final treatment in the dry cleaning leads to high material loads. After just a short time, the garments mentioned can no longer be worn for formal occasions, as they look worn and worn out.

These garments may be suits that include trousers, vests, blazers or blazers. Furthermore, it may be The mentioned clothing also costumes for ladies or girls handln.

For this reason, there has been a demand for years by garment manufacturers and service providers for garments that withstand the stresses in industrial laundries under the conditions of the DIN / ISO standard "Industrial Washing and Finishing Procedures for Testing Workwear" (DIN ISO 15797: 2004) hold.

To survive the treatment in industrial laundries as unscathed as possible, the garments must have a very good wash resistance at temperatures of up to 95 ° C. The garments must also withstand extreme drying conditions of up to 150 ° C in a tunnel finisher at high cycle numbers. It can be carried out up to 50 cycles.

The garments known from the prior art can be washed only rarely or not at all. At best, the known garments can be washed at 30 ° C in gentle cycle in a household machine, taking a loss of shape. Mostly, therefore, the expensive, polluting and only partially effective dry cleaning, namely a dry cleaning performed to treat rental laundry. Furthermore, elaborate drying and ironing are necessary to bring the garment back into shape. In addition, the known garments have only a limited life and their care is also very expensive.

Presentation of the invention

The invention is therefore based on the object, a garment of the type mentioned in such a way and further develop that this has a high dimensional stability even after several washing and drying operations.

According to the invention the above object is achieved with the features of claim 1.

According to the invention it has been recognized that the arrangements according to the invention of the Kettgame surprisingly realize a composite to each other, which shows a high dimensional stability. In particular, it has been recognized that forms a very special effect, namely a high wash resistance of the composite to 95 ° C. Furthermore, it has been recognized that the composite or equipped with him garments a Sprühdampfbeständigkeit up to 150 ° C in all common Show cabinet and tunnel finishes. This applies for throughput times of at least 3 minutes. Furthermore, it has been recognized that the equipment of garments surprisingly with such a composite it is possible to subject these 20 and more treatment cycles to DIN ISO 15797: 2004. The composite according to the invention allows the production of garments that can be offered as leasing, namely as rental laundry, and reused.

The first interlining material is removed from the second interlining material after 50 care preparations of the composite according to DIN ISO 15797: 2004 by a force of at least 10 N / 50 mm in a separation test according to DIN EN ISO 54310. A composite that still has this strength after such a load of laundry and care preparations in industrial laundries, is particularly suitable for use in garments from the Mietwäschebereich.

The warp yarns or the weft yarn of a first interlining fabric are in direct contact with the warp yarns or weft yarns of a second interlining fabric in some areas. By this specific embodiment, a sliding connection of the first interlining material and the second interlining fabric is possible, wherein the interlining fabrics are connected to each other exclusively by an adhesive, namely by a heat seal adhesive.

On the warp yarns of at least one interlining, a thermosetting heat seal adhesive is applied in certain areas. The use of a heat-sealable hot-seal adhesive allows a thermal connection of the interlining materials. Concretely, it is conceivable against this background that a heat seal adhesive is used, as it is used in the DE 10 2005 006 470.1 is described. The use of said heat-seal adhesive has proved to be particularly advantageous for producing a planar composite. In particular, the use of said heat-seal adhesive realizes a composite that has a particular Bounce or spring characteristic of the composite with a memory effect forms This memory effect ensures long-term form assurance of the composite.

Consequently, the object mentioned above is achieved.

At least one liner could have a plain weave or cross twill weave. By this specific embodiment, a composite of commercially available materials can be easily manufactured.

At least one Einlagestoff could have a cross twill weave of 1: 3, namely, a Kettgam in each case alternately wraps around three Schussgame and a Schussgam. Such an interlining material advantageously realizes a special suspension property of the composite. By using a Einlagestoffes with a cross twill of 1: 3 is a floating, namely sliding movement of the first Einlagestoffes relative to the second Einlagestoff possible, namely, the Kettgame of the first Einlagestoff more likely to rest on the Schussgamen of the second Einlagestoffs than on the Kettgamen.

At least one interlining material could have a cross twill weave of 1: 1, namely, one warp each alternately a Schussgam wraps. The use of such an interlining material advantageously permits a combination with a further interlining material which has a cross-twill weave of 1: 3. A composite of these two Einlagestoffe allows a partially sliding connection of the liner materials relative to each other to form a suspension effect.

As a heat-seal adhesive, a polyolefin-based adhesive could be used. Such a heat-seal adhesive shows after hardening a particularly good connection with the interlining substances mentioned here. The nature of the polyolefins used in this case is basically freely selectable, provided that the MFI values mentioned below are adhered to. The heat-seal adhesive is made preferably of two superimposed grid-shaped layers of different nature. Both layers consist of heat-sealing adhesive components that contain polyolefins and are characterized by selected melt flow indices (MFI value). The polyolefin-based heat-seal adhesive component used to form the first layer preferably has an MFI of from 20 to 150, especially from 55 to 130 g / 10 minutes (190 ° C / 2.16 kg). The polyolefin-based heat seal adhesive component used to form the second layer preferably has an MFI of 50 to 210 g / 10 minutes, more preferably 55 to 150 g / 10 minutes (190 ° C / 2.16 kg).

Against this background, it is conceivable that the heat-seal adhesive is applied pointwise with a pattern of 52 dots / cm ² . This pattern has proven to be particularly advantageous in order to ensure a high dimensional stability at the same time good spring action of the composite.

The dots of the pattern could consist of a first layer, namely a paste base, and a second layer, namely a powder crest. In this case, the paste base faces the interlining to prevent the powder crest from penetrating too deeply into the interior of the interlining material as the point fuses. This is important in a method step in which a further interlining material is heat-pressed onto an interlining material on which the dots are applied.

The dots could have a mean diameter of 0.3 to 0.5 mm. The choice of the average diameter from this area has proven to be advantageous to use the heat-sealing adhesive material saving on the one hand and on the other hand to ensure high strength of the compound of the interlining.

The interlinings can form a laminate. Laminates show a particularly reliable and firm connection of the interlining. Against this background, it is conceivable that the heat-sealable adhesive used has a melting point in the range of 127 to 195 ° C. The laminate could be made by compressing the liners at a pressure of 20 to 45 Newtons / cm ² at 127 to 195 ° C for a fusing time of 15 to 25 seconds. Through these concrete process steps, a particularly stable laminate can be produced.

The formation of the composite as a laminate leads to a cut edge sealing of the interlining materials. This prevents fraying and fiber migration. Both effects contribute significantly to the quality promotion of the garment in which the composite is processed.

Against this background, it is conceivable that a first interlining having a cross-twill weave of 1: 3 abuts a second one-day fabric having a cross-twill weave of 1: 1, the second interlining being sandwiched between the first interlining and a third interleaf. This concrete embodiment realizes a composite that forms a particularly strong bounce, which acts supporting form on an outer fabric, which is associated with a garment. In this case, the outer fabric is applied to the first interlining material, wherein the third interlining material faces the body of the wearer of the garment. From the body side of the composite is now a particularly strong bounce, which acts form supporting the outer fabric of the garment. This bounce is advantageous so evenly that it pushes back on its mechanical deformation of the composite this again and again in its original form. This effect is called a memory effect. In a sophisticated way, this effect only works unidirectionally, namely towards the outer fabric. The The back of the composite remains soft and comfortable and does not disturb the wearer of the garment. The bounce acts hard from the first liner to the outside hard and soft towards the second or third liner inward. This is realized in a surprising way in that the warp yarn side of the first interlining fabric, on which three weft yarns are wrapped, abut the second interlining fabric, the warp yarns of the first interlining being oriented orthogonally to the warp yarns of the second interlining fabric. Against this background, it is conceivable that the composite is used as a plack or Ärmelfisch, which is arranged under the outer fabric.

The third interlining material could have a cross-twill weave of 1: 3 and abut with the warp yarns on the second interlining fabric. This specific embodiment ensures a particularly strong bounce, which has a shape-supporting effect on the aforementioned outer fabric of the garment. This is realized in a surprising manner in that the warp side of the third insert fabric, on which three weft yarns are wrapped, abut the second insert fabric, the warp yarns of the third insert fabric oriented orthogonally to the warp yarns of the second insert fabric.

The third insert fabric could be formed as a nonwoven fabric and abut by a heat seal adhesive layer on the second Einlagestoff. This embodiment increases the wearing comfort of the wearer of the garment, since a nonwoven fabric can be made particularly soft.

The second interlining material could be formed as the outer material of a garment. In this way, a garment can be created which has a high dimensional stability and / or high optical quality even after heavy washing and care treatment.

The composite could have a basis weight of 20 to 500 g / m ² . This basis weight makes the composite suitable for use in almost all garments.

The composite described here could be used as a plack. Such a patch could have a band on the first liner which is secured to the composite by the heat-sealable heat-seal adhesive. Preferably, the band could consist of a hydroentangled spunbonded nonwoven fabric. This material ensures a permanently tear-resistant, stable and non-fraying connection with the placket, namely the so-called hinge effect, compared with the strip materials otherwise used. The tape is used to attach the placket to other parts of a jacket, blazer or jacket on which a placket is usually placed.

The interlining materials described here could consist of polyester yarns. This material has proven to be particularly suitable for forming the described spring properties of the composite.

The interlining materials described herein may also be made of polyester yarns, polyamide yarns and polyester wool / goat hair blends. These materials are common in garment processing and are easy to process.

The second interlining material could have polyester yarns as the warp yarn and wool or goat hair in the weft, namely as weft yarns. Such a configuration of the second interlining material makes it possible to wash the composite with virtually no loss of form.

Preferably, the interlining substances described here are designed as thermofixable interlining substances. This makes it possible to laminate the interlinings together using a heat seal adhesive.

The composite described here is suitable according to the invention for placement in garments that withstand the care treatments in industrial laundries. The garments comply with the requirements of the DIN / ISO standard "Industrial washing and finishing procedures for testing workwear" (DIN ISO 15797: 2004).

The composite described here can be used in garments such as suits, costumes, jackets, jackets, blazers, blazers, vestons, blousons, coats, vests, pants or skirts. All of the aforementioned garments may be offered to consumers as leased linen using the composite described herein.

Said garments may have outer fabrics which preferably comprise blends of wool, polyester or Lycra. The garments may further comprise lining fabrics, preferably made of polyester. The garments may comprise collar felts, which are preferably blends of wool and polyester.

The composites described herein may also be used to fabricate further elements for shaping a garment. It is conceivable to use the composite for sleeve fish, shoulder pads, waist bands, seam securing bands, under collar materials and similar components. Such garment equipment permits their use as rental laundry or leasewear. Furthermore, it is possible to equip the said garments as leasing-compatible business clothing.

There are now various possibilities for embodying and developing the teaching of the present invention in an advantageous manner. For this purpose, on the one hand to the subordinate claims, on the other hand, to refer to the following explanation of preferred embodiments of the invention with reference to the drawings.

In connection with the explanation of the preferred embodiments of the invention with reference to the drawings, also generally preferred embodiments of the teaching are explained.

Brief description of the drawing

Fig. 1

eine schematische Darstellung der drei Einlagestoffe, die einen Verbund bilden,

Fig. 2

einen Verbund aus den drei Einlagestoffen gemäß Fig. 1, wobei am ersten Einlagestoff ein Band angeordnet ist, und

Fig. 3

ein Herrensakko, in welchem der Verbund gemäß Fig. 2 als Plack verwendet wird.

In the drawing show

Fig. 1

a schematic representation of the three interlining substances that form a composite,

Fig. 2

a composite of the three interlinings according to Fig. 1 , wherein on the first liner a band is arranged, and

Fig. 3

a men's jacket in which the composite according to Fig. 2 used as a plack.

Embodiment of the invention

Fig.1 shows interlining 1, 2, 3 of a composite for use as a plack in a garment. The composite comprises at least two interconnected interlining fabrics 1, 2, 3. The interlining fabrics 1, 2, 3 each have Warp yarns 4 marked black and weft yarn 5 marked white. The interlining 1, 2, 3 are adjacent.

The interlining material 1 consists of polyester yarns. Inlay 1 according to section 1.A has a cross-twill weave of 1: 3. In this case, a Kettgam 4 each alternately wraps around three weft yarns 5, which are drawn in black and white. On the warp yarns 4 of the liner 1 a thermosetting heat seal adhesive 6 is applied in some areas. The side of the liner 1, which has the heat-seal adhesive 6, the Einlagestoff 2 faces. The interlining 2 has a cross-twill weave of 1: 1 according to section 2.A. In this case, a Kettgam 4 alternately wraps around a Schussgam 5. The warp yarns 4 of the first interlining fabric 1 are applied to the warp yarns 4 of the second interlining fabric 2. In this case, the warp yarn side of the interlining fabric 1, on which three weft yarns 5 are wrapped, lies on the interlayer 2 with a cross twill weave of 1: 1.

The interlining material 3 comprises a cross-twill weave of 1: 3. This is shown in detail 3.A. However, it is also conceivable that the interlining material 3 is made as a nonwoven fabric. This is shown in section 3.B. The side of the liner 3, which faces the liner 2, also has the heat-sealable hot-seal adhesive 6. According to section 3.B, the warp yarn side of the interlining fabric 3, on which three weft yarns 5 are wrapped, abuts the interlayer 2 with a cross-twill weave of 1: 1.

The warp yarns 4 of the interlining fabrics 1 and 3 close with the warp yarns 4 of the interlining 2 a right angle. This embodiment leads to a high jump training in the direction of the liner 1.

The heat seal adhesive 6 is applied pointwise with a pattern of 52 dots / cm ² on the interlining fabrics 1 to 3. The Einlanestoffe 1, 2, 3 form a laminate, which in Fig. 2 is shown.

Fig. 2 shows further that the liner 1 a band 7 is assigned. The band 7 consists of a spunbonded nonwoven fabric. The spunbonded fabric has a basis weight of 100 g / m ² . The in Fig. 2 composite shown is used as a plack in a men's jacket 8. The in Fig. 2 The composite shown has a first insert fabric 1 with a cross twill weave of 1: 3, which rests on a second insert fabric 2 with a cross twill weave of 1: 1. The second liner 2 is sandwiched between the first liner 1 and a third liner 3. The third insert fabric 3 has a cross twill weave of 1: 3 and lies with the warp yarns 4 on the second insert fabric 2. The interlining 1 to 3 are interconnected by a heat seal adhesive 6.

As a heat seal adhesive 6, a polyolefin-based adhesive is used. The heat seal adhesive consists of two superimposed grid-shaped layers of different nature. Both layers consist of heat-sealing adhesive components that contain polyolefins and are characterized by selected melt flow indices (MFI value). The polyolefin-based heat-seal adhesive component used to form the first layer has an MFI of 20 to 150, especially 55 to 130 g / 10 minutes (190 ° C / 2.16 kg). The polyolefin-based heat-seal adhesive component used to form the second layer has an MFI of 50 to 210 g / 10 minutes, especially 55 to 150 g / 10 minutes (190 ° C / 2.16 kg).

Fig. 3 shows a men's jacket 8, which the composite according to Fig. 2 having. The composite according to Fig. 2 is by the band 7 of spunbonded on Outer fabric of the men's 8 suits sewn. The composite according to Fig. 2 is also sewn in the arm and in the shoulder area with the men's jacket 8.

This in Fig. 3 shown men's jacket 8 further comprises an outer fabric 9, which is connected to a liner 1 a. The interlining 1 a corresponds in construction to the interlining fabric 1 of the composite according to Fig. 2 , The interlining 1 a is connected by the aforementioned heat seal adhesive 6 with the outer fabric 9. In this case, the warp yarn side of the insert fabric 1 a, on which three weft yarns 5 are looped, abuts an outer fabric 9 with a cross twill weave of 1: 1. The warp yarns 4 of the insert material 1a are oriented parallel to the warp yarns 4 of the outer fabric 9. As a result, the outer fabric 9 is given a high dimensional stability even after several care treatments.

With regard to further advantageous embodiments and developments of the teaching of the invention reference is made on the one hand to the general part of the description and on the other hand to the claims.

Finally, it should be particularly emphasized that the previously purely arbitrarily chosen embodiments are only for the purpose of discussion of the teaching of the invention, but do not limit these to these embodiments.

Claims (13)

1. Bonded structure for use in a garment, comprising at least two mutually interbonded interlining fabrics (1, 1a, 9, 2, 3), wherein the interlining fabrics (1, 1a, 9, 2, 3) each include warp yarns (4) and weft yarns (5), wherein the interlining fabrics (1, 1a, 9, 2, 3) lie against one another, wherein the warp yarns (4) of a first interlining fabric (1a) are oriented at least in places parallel to the warp yarns (4) of a second interlining fabric (9), or wherein the warp yarns (4) of a first interlining fabric (1) are oriented at least in places at an angle in the range from 45° to 90° in relation to the warp yarns (4) of a second interlining fabric (2),
   characterized in that the force for detaching the first interlining fabric (1, 1a) from the second interlining fabric (2, 9) after 50 care treatments of the bonded structure according to DIN ISO 15797:2004 is at least 10 N/50 mm, wherein the warp yarns (4) or the weft yarns (5) of a first interlining fabric (1, 1a) lie against the warp yarns (4) or the weft yarns (5) of a second interlining fabric (2, 9) with inclusion of an adhesive (6) and wherein a thermofusible hot-seal adhesive (6) has been applied to the warp yarns (4) of at least one interlining fabric (1, 1a, 9, 2, 3) in places.
2. Bonded structure according to Claim 1, characterized in that at least one interlining fabric (1, 1a, 9, 2, 3) has a plain weave or a broken twill weave.
3. Bonded structure according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that at least one interlining fabric (1, 1a, 3) has a broken twill weave ratio of 1 to 3 in that any one warp yarn (4) alternatingly interlaces three weft yarns (5) and one weft yarn (5).
4. Bonded structure according to any of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that at least one interlining fabric (2, 9) has a broken twill weave ratio of 1 to 1 in that any one warp yarn (4) alternatingly interlaces one weft yarn (5).
5. Bonded structure according to any of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the hot-seal adhesive (6) is applied in a dotwise pattern of 52 dots/cm².
6. Bonded structure according to any of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the dots have an average diameter of 0.3 to 0.5 mm.
7. Bonded structure according to any of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the interlining fabrics (1, 1a, 9, 2, 3) form a laminate.
8. Bonded structure according to any of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that a first interlining fabric (1) having a broken twill weave ratio 1 to 3 lies against a second interlining fabric (2) having a broken twill weave ratio 1 to 1, wherein the second interlining fabric (2) is sandwiched between the first interlining fabric (1) and a third interlining fabric (3).
9. Bonded structure according to Claim 8, characterized in that the third interlining fabric (3) has a broken twill weave ratio 1 to 3 and lies with its warp yarns (4) against the second interlining fabric (2).
10. Bonded structure according to Claim 8, characterized in that the third interlining fabric (3) is constructed as a fibrous nonwoven web fabric and lies against the second interlining fabric (2) with inclusion of a hot-seal adhesive layer.
11. Bonded structure according to any of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the second interlining fabric (2, 9) is constructed as the outer fabric (9) of a garment (8).
12. Bonded structure according to any of Claims 1 to 11, characterized by a basis weight of 20 to 500 g/m².
13. Use of a bonded structure according to any of Claims 1 to 12 as a placket.

Images