EP2066188A2

EP2066188A2 - Multilayered member for bras with differential compression

Info

Publication number: EP2066188A2
Application number: EP07823449A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Monique Galland; Manon Turlan; Véronique DEGARDIN; Olinda Estavel
Original assignee: Dbapparel Operations SAS
Current assignee: DBI Operations Europe SAS
Priority date: 2006-09-22
Filing date: 2007-08-27
Publication date: 2009-06-10
Also published as: WO2008037862A3; FR2906111B1; FR2906111A1; WO2008037862A2

Abstract

The invention relates to a bra member that comprises a multilayered single-piece complex forming a cup area (2) moulded into a three-dimensional essentially bulged shape and a flat area (3, 4, 5) provided about the bulged area of the cup (2) at least in the lower portion thereof, the multilayered single-piece complex including an inner fabric layer and an outer fabric layer separated by at least one layer of an intermediate flexible material that can be moulded and provides a thickness, and the thickness of the complex in a region (6) of the flat area immediately adjacent to the bulged area of the cup (2) being substantially larger than in the rest of said flat area.

Description

Multilayer bra element with differential compression

The invention relates to a multilayer brassiere element incorporating at least one layer of thickness, generally made of foam, and shaped by hot molding (thermoforming).

The document WO 2005/012614 discloses an example of such an element obtained by molding between press trays maintaining between them a predetermined interval which makes it possible not to completely crush the intermediate foam but, on the contrary, to adjust the degree of compression thereof. to obtain desired characteristics of thickness and flexibility or volume ("the loft characteristics") of the final product. Also known from GB 1 577 099 a bra molding process according to which an enlarged molding cavity at the cap allows to give it an extra thickness, for example in the bottom of the cups.

Moreover, document US 2003/0232571 discloses a multilayer bra incorporating a reinforcing layer in the planar zone immediately surrounding the cups, but this layer is made of a very thin resistant material (of the order of 0, 3 to 0.9 mm) intended not to form significant extra thickness and provide better support of the chest. However, these documents do not solve the problem of the comfort of the bra for the wearer.

The invention aims to improve the brassiere thus known, and in particular to improve comfort. According to the invention, this object is achieved by means of a bra element consisting of a multilayer one-piece complex forming a molded bonnet area of substantially convex three-dimensional shape and a flat area located around the convex zone of the cup, at least in the lower part thereof, the multilayer one-piece complex comprising an inner textile layer and an outer textile layer separated by at least one layer of moldable flexible intermediate material giving a thickness, characterized in that the thickness of the complex in a region of the planar zone immediately adjacent to the convex zone of the cup is substantially larger than in the remainder of said planar area, this greater thickness of the complex resulting from a greater thickness of flexible intermediate material. This extra thickness in this region which immediately surrounds the domed cap at its lower part gives an increased comfort, since this region constitutes a rather intense support zone against the skin of the wearer, with a significant part of the transmission of the weight of the chest in the form of support forces on the skin. The increased thickness of flexible material makes it possible to better distribute these forces and thus increases comfort. In addition to a substantial thickness, it is understood that a thickening of a nature to impart in a sensible manner the wearing of greater softness and greater softness on contact with the skin. In practice, the extra thickness is of the order of at least 1.2 mm, preferably at least 1.6 mm, and even more preferably at least 2 mm. This sensitive thickness of thickness is made without any significant increase in rigidity or hardness; he understands that the The extra thickness does not result from the interposition of a layer providing rigidity or hardness at the same time as it would add thickness. In other words, the increased thickness in this area results from an increase in the thickness of the layer or layers providing the soft characteristics, and in general, the foam layer that plays this role.

The extra thickness can be obtained for example thanks to a padded basque made in traditional clothing with foam inserting. However, according to a most preferred characteristic of the invention, the difference in thickness is obtained by a compression difference of the flexible intermediate material, instead of being, for example, by a thicker layer at the outset. in this region, or by laying an additional layer in this region. The intermediate layer is, before molding, of uniform thickness; by adjusting the thickness of the final product by the differential compression of the complex during molding, this different thickness is obtained without adding a manufacturing step.

Importantly, during the differential compression operation, all the molding parameters are monitored so that they move in the desired direction of softness and softness, for example by avoiding significant heating at the level of the thickening zone. which, depending on the nature of the compressed materials (eg foam) could possibly harden by improper heating.

The additional thickness is preferably taken on the part constituting the inside of the bra element, so as to offer the better comfort to the wearer and not being visible from the outside.

According to a characteristic which is also very advantageous of the invention, a rigid reinforcement is incorporated in this thicker zone. It suffices to incorporate it before molding in the intermediate layer of the complex, in the region which will be less compressed during molding (thermoforming). It goes without saying that the layer of foam, at the level of the reinforcement, will be slightly more compressed than in the immediate vicinity of the reinforcement, but that the reinforcement occupies only a portion of reduced area with respect to the reinforcement. total area of the area in excess, so that this difference in compression is not noticeable to wear and does not affect the comfort of the bra according to one invention.

The thickness in this less compressed region is also greater than or equal to the thickness of the complex in the domed area of the cup. In fact it is larger than the average thickness of the complex in the convex zone of the cup, but it is advantageous to provide that in the lower part of the convex zone of the cup, the thickness gradually changes from the greater thickness of the cup to the cup. the thick region of the flat area at a constant and lower thickness in the upper part of the cup. This gradual change in thickness allows to form in the cup, at its lower part, a slightly thicker area that provides better support and comfort to the wearer.

Although the bra element may constitute only an individual cap then connectable to another similar cup to form a bra, it is advantageous that the bra element bra has both the cups, the middle part and the back part. As a result, in a single molding operation, most of the bra is fully formed; it remains only to attach straps and the rear clasp. The invention also relates to a mold for molding a bra element as above. In other words, the mold of the invention is a bra element mold composed of a multilayer one-piece complex which comprises an inner layer of textile and an outer layer of textile separated by at least one layer of moldable flexible intermediate material giving a thickness, the mold having a first three-dimensional portion formed of a male member and a female member for molding a substantially domed cap area, and a second tray portion around the first portion for molding a flat area of the element around said convex zone of the cup at least in the lower part thereof, characterized in that the second part has a recess forming a cavity of greater thickness in the region immediately adjacent to the first part, so as to mold a less compressed region whose thickness is substantially greater than in the rest of said flat area.

Advantageously, the first part of the mold comprises a section defining a constant thickness connected to said cavity of the second mold part by a second section of decreasing thickness.

Advantageously, during molding, the first part of the mold is raised to a temperature higher than that of the second part, which is preferably slightly heated or unheated, Other features and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the following description, with reference to the appended drawings in which:

FIG 1 is a view of a bra according to the invention.

FIG 2 is a schematic sectional view of the complex used for the manufacture of the bra of Figure 1.

FIG 3 is a sectional view of a mold for making the bra of Figure 1, the section of the mold substantially corresponding to the line III-III of Figure 1.-Figure 4 is a view of section of the same mold, the section of the mold corresponding substantially to the line IV-IV of Figure 1 and showing the degressive cavity for the manufacture of the bottom of the cups. Figure 1 shows a bra element 1 conventionally comprising two molded bonnet areas 2, which have a three-dimensional shape substantially curved, for example incomplete hemispherical. These two cups 2 are connected by a medium or between-cup 3, form down a basque 4 and to the outer sides the rear parts 5 of the bra. These parts 3, 4, 5 are flat, unlike the cups 2. To complete the manufacture of the bra, must be added to the element 1 braces and a clasp not shown.

The element 1 is produced by molding in a mold 20 (FIG. 3) a complex having a constitution similar to that shown in FIG. 2. The complex comprises, from bottom to top: a layer of textile 10 glued to its upper part; a first layer of foam 11 also glued to its upper part, which may be a few millimeters thick, for example 2.5 mm; if necessary, reinforcements 12; a second layer of foam 13 also glued to its upper part, which may be of equal thickness or different from the first layer, for example 1 mm; and finally a textile layer 14. The foam 11, 13 may be a polyurethane foam.

The mold 20 comprises on the one hand a plate 21, on the other hand a male mold 22 and a female mold 23. At least two of these three elements (for example the male mold 23 and the female mold 22) are vertically movable for allow to place on the plate 21, when the molds are open, a complex of the type illustrated in Figure 2 and possibly to fix it by appropriate means. Then we can lower the female mold 22 on the complex then mount the male mold 23 to form the cups. For this purpose, the male mold 23 has two convex shapes 24 which cooperate with two corresponding concave shapes 25 formed in the female mold 22. The female mold 22, apart from the concave shapes 25, has flat portions 26 to cooperate with the zones corresponding to the plate 21 interposed between the female mold 22 and the male mold 23. The movements and the stops of the various elements of the mold 20 are adjusted to leave between the convex and concave shapes 25 a cavity 29 of molding-compression with a predetermined spacing "E", and between the planar portions 26 and the tray a molding cavity with a predetermined spacing "e". The value of "E" is preferably more large than that of "e", for example 2 mm and 1 mm respectively.

The mold 20 is equipped with heating means not shown forms 24, 25 for forming the cups, for example at a temperature of 180 to 200 ^° C. The flat portions of the mold may be equipped with heating means or not, since advantageously they are heated to a lower temperature than the forms 24, 25 or even are not heated at all.

According to the invention, at the edge of the plate 21, in the immediate vicinity of the periphery of the convex shapes 24 corresponding to the lower part of the cups 2, a recess 27 increases the thickness of the gap between the plate 21 and the flat part 26 of the female mold 22 to an "H" value greater than "e", for example 6 mm. The enlarged cavity 28 thus formed corresponds to the positioning of the armatures 12 as shown in FIG. 4. As shown in FIG. 4, there is provided in the convex molded-compression cavity of the cups a transition region 30 in which a recess 31 formed in the convex shape 24 makes it possible to pass the molding thickness from the thickness H of the cavity 28 to the uniform thickness E of the cavity 29.

In this way, when the mold 20 is closed and the complex which has been placed therein compressed, the latter is differentially compressed according to the regions. The cups 2 are formed with two convex zones, an upper zone 2a corresponding to the uniform-thickness compression-molding cavity 29 "E" and, on the lower part of the cups 2, a reinforcement and comfort zone 2b progressively longer. thick in approaching the edge of the cup 2, corresponding to the molding cavity 30. The out-cup areas are flat and comprise a first thick region 6 of the flat area immediately adjacent to the convex zone of the cup 2; this flat area 6 of thickness "H" covers the basque 4, the middle 3 and the departures of the rear parts 5. This zone 6 incorporates the curved reinforcements 12. It is advantageously a region where the foam is not not compressed at all or very weakly. The remainder of the element 1 comprises a second flat region, of thickness "e", essentially constituting the lateral and rear portions 5. The zone 6 advantageously has a variable width which may range, for example, from one centimeter in its portion narrower just below the cups to 3 cm or more on the outer edges of the cups or between the cups. With respect to this width, the armature 12, for example a flat armature, advantageously takes only a few millimeters wide and a small thickness.

The assembly obtained after compression molding may undergo cutting or edge finishing operations (if necessary), for example by ultrasonic welding wheel, and fastening operations of the straps and closure members, advantageously by ultrasonic welding, of so that we get a bra made entirely seamless, with good performance, great comfort, soft touch qualities, and a beautiful appearance.

Claims

1) Bra element consisting of a multilayer one-piece complex forming a substantially domed three-dimensional molded bonnet area (2) and a flat area (3, 4, 5) located around the domed area of the cup (2) at least in the lower part thereof, the multilayer one-piece complex comprising an inner textile layer (10) and an outer textile layer (14) separated by at least one layer of flexible mouldable intermediate material (11, 13) giving a thickness, characterized in that the thickness of the complex in a region (6) of the planar zone immediately adjacent to the convex zone of the cup (2) is substantially greater than in the remainder of said planar zone, this thickness plus large complex resulting from a greater thickness of flexible intermediate material.

2) Element according to claim 1, characterized in that the difference in thickness is obtained by a compression difference of the flexible intermediate material (11, 13).

3) Element according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the additional thickness is preferably taken on the part constituting the inside of the bra element.

4) Element according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that a rigid armature (12) is incorporated in this thicker region (6).

5) Element according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the thickness in this planar region thicker (6) is greater than or equal to the thickness of the complex in the domed area of the cup (2) .

6) Element according to claim 5, characterized in that the thickness gradually changes from the greater thickness (H) of the thick region (6) of the planar zone to a constant thickness and lower (E) in the upper part. (2a) of the cup (2).

7) Mold for molding a bra element (1) composed of a multilayer one-piece complex which comprises an inner textile layer (10) and an outer textile layer (14) separated by at least one layer of flexible intermediate material moldable material (11, 13) providing a thickness, the mold (20) having a first three-dimensional portion (24, 25) formed of a male member (24) and a female member (25) for molding a cup region ( 2) substantially domed, and a second portion (21, 26) in a tray around the first portion (24, 25) for molding a planar area of the element around said domed area of the cup at least in the lower portion of that characterized in that the second portion (21, 26) has a recess (27) forming a cavity (28) of greater thickness in the region immediately adjacent to the first portion (24, 25), so as to mold a less compressed region whose thickness is sensiblem larger than in the rest of said flat area.

8) Mold according to claim 7, characterized in that the first part of the mold (24, 25) comprises a section (29) defining a constant thickness connected to said cavity (28) of the second mold part by a second section ( 30) with decreasing thickness.

9) Mold according to any one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that during molding, the first portion (24, 25) of the mold is raised to a temperature greater than that of the second portion (21, 26).