EP2054027A2

EP2054027A2 - Oxidative hair treatment agents containing a litchi extract

Info

Publication number: EP2054027A2
Application number: EP07822741A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Thomas Döring; Claudia Brockmann
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2006-12-21
Filing date: 2007-11-20
Publication date: 2009-05-06
Also published as: RU2009127617A; WO2008077687A3; WO2008077687A2; DE102006061828A1

Abstract

An extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. is especially suitable for use in oxidative hair treatment to improve the shine, to improve the texture, and to improve the color retention of hair and to protect the hair from UV radiation. The invention also relates to a method for the oxidative treatment of hair, whereby an oxidative cosmetic agent, which contains an oxidant in a cosmetic carrier, is applied to the hair and is rinsed off the hair after an exposure time. The method is characterized in that directly before the oxidative cosmetic agent is applied, a cosmetic agent, containing an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. in a cosmetic carrier is applied and is optionally rinsed off after an exposure time, and/or the oxidative cosmetic agent additionally contains an extract of the pericarp ofLitchi chinensis Sonn. The invention allows the above-mentioned properties to be obtained without impairing the result of the oxidative effect of the agent.

Description

"Oxidative Hair Treatment with Litchi Extract"

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, during the oxidative hair treatment to improve the freshness of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, to improve the shine of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, and to protect the destructuring keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, by UV radiation. A corresponding method for the oxidative hair treatment, as well as the agents usable therein are also the subject of the present invention.

Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.

Consumers require a cosmetic product to have additional, targeted effects on the substrate in addition to having an excellent effect within its main application. For example, a keratin-containing fiber coloring agent should not only provide excellent coloration as a key parameter, but should also ensure that the fibers are easy to handle after dyeing, are well cared for, protected from environmental influences, and strengthened in the fibrous structure. Cosmetic agents that simultaneously target various parameters of the substrate are generally referred to herein as a "2-in-1 product." By using a 2-in-1 product, the user saves the annoying multiple applications of a variety of cosmetic products. The formulation of 2-in-1 products in combination with an oxidative treatment of keratin-containing fibers is difficult for a person skilled in the art. The necessary for the oxidative fiber treatment reactive oxidative ingredients, such as hydrogen peroxide, are not compatible with all cosmetic ingredients and active ingredients. Known cosmetic agents can thus decompose in combination with an oxidizing agent suitable for the oxidative fiber treatment during product storage or during use. The said cosmetic product would thus not fulfill the tasks of a 2-in-1 product.

The permanent, oxidative staining as well as the hair bleaching and fixation in the context of perm usually take place as an oxidative hair treatment in the presence of oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide. Unfortunately, the oxidizing agent not only achieves the desired cosmetic effect, but also has a negative effect on the stability, the feel and the appearance of the keratin-containing fiber, in particular the human hair. Such damaged hair looks dull and brittle. In extreme cases, it even leads to hair breakage. In the use of such oxidative hair treatment agents, the convenience of the consumer tends to be overcome by the use of a 2-in-1 product for subsequent applications to conceal the above-mentioned undesirable effects.

According to document US-A-2004/0101508 the extracts of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn are suitable for use in hair care. In particular, the flavone derivatives contained in the extract, and in particular the procyanidolic oligomers, have a favorable effect on the protection of the substrate from UV-A and UV-B radiation and from free radicals.

It is the object of the present invention to reduce the above-described side effects of oxidative hair treatments in the context of a 2-in-1 product already during the oxidative hair treatment, without reducing the efficiency of the oxidative cosmetic, in particular with regard to color intensity, color fastness, whitening power or wave effect. to worsen. In addition, in the form of a 2-in-1 product in an application step, the oxidative treatment keratinhaltiger Fibers, especially human hair, with the application of an effective fiber protection against environmental influences, such as UV protection, are connected.

It has now surprisingly been found that the object is achieved in an outstanding degree by the use of an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. The effect unfolds even during the oxidative hair treatment and surprisingly persists even after intensive washing out of the composition according to the invention.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn.

- for the equipment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with UV protection,

to improve the gloss of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair,

to improve the combability of keratinous fibers, especially human hair,

to improve the grip of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair,

- To improve the shaping keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, each in the context of an oxidative hair treatment.

The avivage can be improved by using the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. This manifests itself in an improvement in the combability, feel or shape of keratinous fibers, especially human hair.

By combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber. As a measure of combing used the combing work or the force used during the Combing process of a fiber collective. The measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.

The grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.

Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.

In the context of an oxidative hair treatment, the action of an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.

The oxidizing agents according to the invention are different from atmospheric oxygen and have such an oxidation potential that makes it possible to link disulphide bridges within or between the proteins of the hair keratin, oxidatively lighten the natural color pigment melanin and / or to oxidize a developer-type oxidation dye precursor.

The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular inorganic or organic compounds, such as, for example, sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate,

Sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone-n H ₂ O ₂ (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide in question.

According to the invention, the oxidative cosmetic agent can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the substrate, such as, for example, oxidation dye precursors or melanin. Such catalysts are, for example, metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes. Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of a color can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

Suitable enzymes are e.g. Peroxidases that can significantly increase the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, such enzymes are suitable according to the invention, which generate with the aid of atmospheric oxygen in situ small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and biocatalytically activate the oxidation of the dye precursors in this way. Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, e.g. Pyranose oxidase and e.g. D-glucose or galactose,

Glucose oxidase and D-glucose, glycerol oxidase and glycerin,

Pyruvate oxidase and pyruvic acid or its salts, - alcohol oxidase and alcohol (MeOH, EtOH), lactate oxidase and lactic acid and its salts, tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine, uricase and uric acid or their salts, choline oxidase and choline, amino acid oxidase and amino acids.

The oxidizing agent is preferably contained in an amount of from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the oxidative cosmetic agent. The extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn is preferably used immediately before or during the oxidative hair treatment in the form of an agent containing in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn.

As immediately before the oxidative hair treatment is understood in the context of the invention, an application directly followed by the oxidative hair treatment, wherein the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, containing agent previously rinsed from the hair or preferably on the hair was left and the Hair is preferably still wet.

The extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn is preferably used in a cosmetic carrier. According to the invention, cosmetic creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, for example shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair, are particularly suitable as cosmetic carriers. But it is also conceivable to integrate the ingredients in a powdered or tablet-like formulation, which is dissolved in water before use. The cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.

An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C ₄ -alkoH ₂ O, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1, 2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

In a simultaneous application of the oxidative cosmetic agent and a cosmetic agent containing an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Both agents, optionally just before use, mixed together, or successively without intermediate rinsing step on the hair be applied. In a preferred embodiment, the oxidative cosmetic agent used according to the invention therefore additionally contains an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. ,

The extracts from the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn used according to the invention are obtained from the pericarp (pericarp) of the plant by extraction, preferably with organic solvents, water or mixtures thereof. Preferred organic solvents are ketones (e.g., acetone), ethers, esters, alcohols, or halogenated hydrocarbons. Particularly preferred extractants are water and / or alcohols. Among the alcohols are (Ci to Ce) - alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.

The extraction is preferably carried out at a temperature of 25 ° C to 90 ⁰ C.

The pericarp extract of Litchi chinensis Sonn contains flavone derivatives, in particular flavanols, anthocyanins and flavonols. The derivatives are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, wherein the hydrogenation in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton or an oxidation in the 4-position may already be present. Substitution products are understood as meaning those derivatives which carry a hydroxy group or a methoxy group instead of a hydrogen atom. These include, in particular, flavans, flavan-3-ols (catechols, catechol oligomers), flavan-3,4-diols (leucoanthocyanides), flavones, flavonols and flavonones, and derivatives thereof. Furthermore, the extract contains condensed tannins, also referred to as procyanidolic oligomers. These are oligomers which are formed in the biosynthesis by condensation of 2 to 8 monomer units of a catechin and / or epicatechin, such as procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, oligoprocyanidines, leucoanthocyanidins, leucodelphinins, leucocyanines and anthocyanogens. The extract used according to the invention contains inter alia the proanthocyanidin A2, which is a dimer of the epicatechin having the following structure of the formula (I):

A preferably usable extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, sold under the trade name Litchiderm ^® LS 9704 from Cognis distributed (INCI name (EU): Butylene Glycol, Litchi Chinensis; 0.8 wt .-% of active substance in butylene glycol)..

A second object of the invention are cosmetic compositions containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of

(i) at least one oxidizing agent and

(ii) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. ,

Preferred cosmetic carriers are those of the first subject of the invention.

Correspondingly preferred oxidizing agents have also been mentioned within the scope of the first subject of the invention.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention contain the extracted substances from the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.2 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.005 to 0.02 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.

It is inventively preferred to use the agent according to the invention in the context of a color change of the hair. For this purpose, the cosmetic agent additionally at least one color-modifying component. In accordance with the task, inter alia, the authenticity of the color obtained against environmental influences is improved.

The color-changing component is again preferably selected

(A) from at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type of developer components and optionally additionally at least one coupler component and / or

(b) from oxo dye precursors and / or

(c) from at least one direct dye and / or

(D) from at least one precursor of natural dyes and / or

(e) at least one bleach booster.

The developer components are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-amino pyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its Derivatives used.

It may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1)

in which G ¹ represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to _C4) alkyl, a (Ci to C ₄₎ - monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄₎ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (Ci -C ₄₎ - alkoxy- (Ci to C ₄₎ alkyl group, a 4'-aminophenyl or (Ci to C ₄₎ - alkyl radical which is substituted with a nitrogenous group, a phenyl group or a 4'-aminophenyl radical;

G ² represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to _C4) alkyl, a (Ci to C ₄₎ - monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄₎ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (Ci -C ₄₎ - alkoxy- (Ci to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical or a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group;

G ³ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, a (Ci to _C4) alkyl, a (Ci to C ₄₎ monohydroxyalkyl, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) Polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -acetylaminoalkoxy radical, a mesylamino (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkoxy radical or a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -carbamoylaminoalkoxy radical;

G ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical or

when G ³ and G ⁴ are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging α, ω-alkylenedioxy group, such as, for example, an ethylenedioxy group.

Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines of the formula (E1) are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine , 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine , N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N Bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N -Dimethyl-3-methyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) - p- phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-acetylaminoethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4 -Amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 5,8-diaminobenzo-1, 4-dioxane and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Very particularly preferred according to the invention p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (ß-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, ß-dihydroxyethyl) - p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine , as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

It may further be preferred according to the invention to use as developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.

Among the binuclear developer components which can be used in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds corresponding to the following formula (E2) and their physiologically tolerated salts:

in which:

- Z ¹ and Z ² are each independently a hydroxyl or NH ₂ -ReSt, optionally substituted by a (Ci to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, by a (Ci to C ₄ ) - hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bridge Y substituted or is optionally part of a bridging ring system, the bridging Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring, interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or (Ci to Cs) -Al koxyreste, or a direct bond, G ⁵ and G ⁶ are independently of one another for a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (Ci to C ₄ ) - Alkyl radical, a (Ci to C ₄ ) -Monohydroxyalkylrest, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) - Polyhydroxyalkylrest, a (Ci to C ₄ ) -Aminoalkylrest or a direct connection to the bridge Y,

G ⁷ , G ⁸ , G ⁹ , G ¹⁰ , G ¹¹ and G ¹² independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, with the proviso that the compounds of the Formula (E2) only one bridge Y per

Contain molecule.

The substituents used in formula (E2) are defined according to the invention analogously to the above statements.

Preferred dinuclear developing agents of the formula (E2) are in particular selected from at least one of the following compounds: N, N'-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) - tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N , N'-diethyl-N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) -ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, N, N'-bis (4 '-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) piperazine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 1, 10-bis ( 2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and their physiologically acceptable salts. Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are selected from N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol , Bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3)

in which:

G ¹³ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a (Ci to _C4) alkyl, a (Ci to C ₄₎ monohydroxyalkyl, a (C ₂ to C ₄₎ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a

(C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical, a

Hydroxy- (Ci to C ₄ ) -alkylamino, a (Ci to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkoxy, a (Ci to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl- (Ci to C ₄ ) -aminoalkylrest or a (Di - [(Ci to C ₄ ) - alkyl] amino) - (C 1 to C ₄ ) alkyl, and

G ¹⁴ is a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a

(Ci to C ₄ ) -Monohydroxyalkylrest, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) polyhydroxyalkyl, a (Ci to C ₄ ) alkoxy (Ci to C ₄ ) alkyl, a (Ci to C ₄ ) -Aminoalkylrest or a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -cyanoalkyl radical,

G ¹⁵ is hydrogen, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -

Monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a phenyl radical or a benzyl radical, and

G ¹⁶ is hydrogen or a halogen atom. The substituents used in formula (E3) are defined according to the invention analogously to the above statements.

Preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (E3) are, in particular, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4 -Amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino 2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2 chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Very particularly preferred compounds of the formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino 2- (diethylaminomethyl) -phenol.

Further, the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.

Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.

Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E4) or their physiologically tolerated salts,

wherein G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ and G ¹⁹ independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) alkoxy group or an amino group and G ^{20 represents} a hydroxy group or a group -NG ²¹ G ²² , wherein G ²¹ and G ²² are independently a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to C ₄₎ - alkyl, (Ci to C ₄₎ monohydroxyalkyl group, with the proviso that at most two of the groups G ^17, G ^18, G ¹⁹ and G ²⁰ a hydroxy group and at most two of the radicals G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ and G ^{19 represent} a hydrogen atom. In this case, it is again preferred if, according to formula (E4), at least two groups of G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ , G ¹⁹ and G ^{20 represent} a group -NG ²¹ G ²² and at most two groups of G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ , G ¹⁹ and G ^{20 represent} a hydroxy group.

Particularly preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5 , 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

Preferred pyrazole derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E5),

wherein

G ^23, G ^24, G ²⁵ are each independently a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to C ₄₎ alkyl group, a (Ci to C ₄₎ monohydroxyalkyl, a (C ₂ to C ₄₎ - polyhydroxyalkyl group, an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted aryl- (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group, with the proviso that when G ^{25 is} a hydrogen atom, G ^{26 may} additionally be a group -NH _{2 in} addition to the abovementioned groups,

G ²⁶ represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to C ₄₎ alkyl group, a (Ci to C ₄₎ - monohydroxyalkyl group or a (C ₂ to C ₄₎ polyhydroxyalkyl group and G ^ 27 represents a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted aryl group, a (Ci to C ₄ ) -alkyl group or a (Ci to C ₄ ) -Monohydroxyalkylgruppe, in particular for a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.

Preferably, in formula (E5) the radical -NG G binds to the 5-position and the radical G to the 3-position of the pyrazole cycle.

Particularly preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds which are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- Diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3 phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4 5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - (β-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4.5 Diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4.5- Diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5- (ß-aminoethyl) amino-1, 3-dimethylpyrazole, and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Preferred pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the derivatives of the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the following formula (E6) and their tautomeric forms, if a tautomeric equilibrium exists:

in which:

G ²⁸ , G ²⁹ and G ³⁰ , G ³¹ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) Polyhydroxyalkylrest a (Ci to C ₄ ) -Alkoxy- (Ci to C ₄ ) -alkylrest, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical, which may optionally be protected by an acetyl-ureide or a sulfonyl radical, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkylamino- (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a Di - [( C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl] - (C 1 to C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical, where the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle having 5 or 6 chain members, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkyl or a di [ (Ci to C ₄₎ - hydroxyalkyl] - (Ci to _C4) aminoalkyl radical, the X radicals are each independently a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to C ₄₎ alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a (Ci to C ₄₎ monohydroxyalkyl, a (C ₂ to C ₄₎ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (Ci to _C4) aminoalkyl radical, a (Ci to C ₄₎ - alkyl group alkylamino (Ci to C _4), a di - [( C 1 to C ₄ ) alkyl] - (C 1 to C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical, where the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle with 5 or 6 chain members, a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl or a di- [ (C i to C ₄₎ hydroxyalkyl] amino- (Ci to _C4) alkyl, an amino group, a (Ci to C ₄₎ alkyl or di - [(Ci to C ₄₎ hydroxyalkyl] amino group, a halogen atom, a carboxylic acid group or a sulfonic acid group,

- i has the value 0, 1, 2 or 3, p has the value 0 or 1, q has the value 0 or 1 and n has the value 0 or 1, with the proviso that the sum of p + q is not equal to 0 is

if p + q equals 2, n has the value 0, and the groups NG ²⁸ G ²⁹ and NG ³⁰ G ³¹ occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);

if p + q is 1, n is 1, and the groups NG ²⁸ G ²⁹ (or NG ³⁰ G ³¹ ) and the group OH occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);

The substituents used in formula (E7) are defined according to the invention analogously to the above statements.

When the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the above formula (E6) contains a hydroxy group at one of the 2, 5 or 7 positions of the ring system, there is a tautomeric equilibrium shown, for example, in the following scheme:

Among the pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E7) may be mentioned in particular:

Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;

2,5-dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;

Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;

2,7-dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;

3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol;

3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol;

2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol;

2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol;

2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -ethanol;

2 - [(7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -ethanol;

5,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;

2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;

3-amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine; and their physiologically acceptable salts and their tautomeric forms when a tautomeric equilibrium is present.

The pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E6) can be prepared as described in the literature by cyclization from an aminopyrazole or from hydrazine.

Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p - phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N , N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane , 1, 3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane,

1, 10-bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4- Hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

The following are examples of the substituents of the compounds of the formulas

(E1) to (E6) mentioned radicals: Examples of (Ci to C ₄ ) -alkyl radicals are the

Groups -CH ₃ ,

-CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CHs) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ .

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkoxy radicals according to the invention are -OCH ₃ , -OCH ₂ CH ₃ ,

-OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OCH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -OCH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -

OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , in particular a methoxy or an ethoxy group.

Furthermore, as preferred examples of a (Ci to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkyl group

-CH ₂ OH,

-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHCH (OH) CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, where the group

-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH is preferred.

A particularly preferred example of a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) polyhydroxyalkyl group is 1, 2

Dihydroxyethyl.

Examples of halogen atoms are F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred examples.

Examples of nitrogen-containing groups are in particular -NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -

Monoalkylamino groups, (C 1 to C ₄ ) -dialkylamino groups, (C 1 to C ₄ ) -

Trialkylammonium groups, (C 1 to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkylamino groups, imidazolinium and -NH ₃ ⁺ . Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -monoalkylamino groups are -NHCH ₃ , -NHCH ₂ CH ₃ , -

NHCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

-NHCH (CH ₃ ) ₂ .

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -dialkylamino groups are -N (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -N (CH ₂ CH ₃ ) ₂ .

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) trialkylammonium groups are -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ (CH ₂ CH ₃ ),

-N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) (CH ₂ CH ₃ ) ₂ .

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkylamino radicals are -NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH,

-NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH ₁ -NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH.

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkoxy (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl groups are the groups -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-

CH ₃ ,

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-

CH (CH ₃ ),

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH (CH ₃ ).

Examples of hydroxy (C 1 to C ₄ ) alkoxy radicals are -O-CH ₂ OH, -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -O-

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH,

-O-CHCH (OH) CH ₃₁ -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH.

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -acetylaminoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH ₂ NHC (O) CH ₃ , -O-

CH ₂ CH ₂ NHC (O) CH ₃ ,

-O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHC (O) CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH (NHC (O) CH ₃ ) CH ₃ , -O-

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHC (O) CH ₃ .

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -carbamoylaminoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH-C (O) -NH ₂ ,

-O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH-C (O) -NH ₂₁ -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH-C (O) -NH ₂ .

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radicals are -CH ₂ NH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ ,

-CH ₂ CH (NH ₂ ) CH ₃₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -cyanoalkyl radicals are -CH ₂ CN ₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ CN ₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CN.

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkylamino (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radicals are -CH ₂ CH ₂ NH-

CH ₂ CH ₂ OH ₁

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH ₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH ₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH-

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH.

Examples of di [(C 1 to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl] amino- (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radicals are -

CH ₂ CH ₂ N (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) ₂₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ N (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ N (CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ N (CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) ₂ .

An example of aryl groups is the phenyl group.

Examples of aryl (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl groups are the benzyl group and the 2-phenylethyl group.

As coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives and heterocyclic compounds are generally used.

Preferred coupler components according to the invention are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as, for example, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2 6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'- Hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol and 2,4 Dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis- (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1- Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene , 2 - ({3 - [(2-Hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl } amino) ethano 1, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} -amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-yl-phenyl) -amino] -ethanol, 3-amino-4- ( 2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine and 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as, for example, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-one methylbenzene,

Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4 dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2- Methyl 1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7- Dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,

Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,

Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, pyrimidine derivatives such as For example, 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy 6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine, or

Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Particularly preferred coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol , 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the abovementioned compounds.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain the developer components in an amount of from 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition. The cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably contain the coupler components in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

The composition of the invention can be used as color-modifying component in the form of the Oxofarbstoffvorprodukte at least one combination of at least one compound of the component

1 compounds containing a reactive carbonyl group with at least one compound of the component

2 compounds selected from (a) CH-acidic compounds, (b) compounds containing primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group selected from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds.

Compounds according to the invention having a reactive carbonyl group (also referred to below as reactive carbonyl compounds or component 1) have at least one carbonyl group as reactive group which reacts with the compounds of component 2 to form a chemical bond linking both components. Further, according to the invention, those compounds are also included as component 1 in which the reactive carbonyl group is derivatized or masked in such a way that the reactivity of the carbon atom of the derivatized or masked carbonyl group with respect to the component 2 is always present. These derivatives are preferably condensation compounds of reactive carbonyl compounds with a) amines and their derivatives to form imines or oximes as a condensation compound b) alcohols to form acetals or ketals as a condensation compound c) water to form hydrates as a condensation compound of aldehydes.

Component 1 is preferably selected from the group consisting of acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxybenzophenone, hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropiophenone, 4-hydroxypropiophenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3-hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,3, 4-trihydroxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone diethyl ketal, 4-Hydroxy-3-methoxy-acetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4-dimethylaminoacetophenone, 4-morpholinoacetophenone, 4-piperidinoacetophenone, 4-imidazolinoacetophenone, 2-hydroxy-5-bromo-acetophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-nitroacetophenone, acetophenone-2-carboxylic acid, acetophenone-4-carboxylic acid, benzophenone, 4-hydroxybenzophenone, 2-aminobenzophenone, 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4 , 4'-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-1-acetonaphthone, 1-hydroxy-2-acetonaphthone, chromone, chromone-2-carboxylic acid, F lavon, 3-hydroxyflavone, 3,5,7-trihydroxyflavone, 4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone, 5,6,7-trihydroxyflavone, quercetin, 1-indanone, 9-fluorenone, 3-hydroxyfluorenone, anthrone, 1, 8 Dihydroxyanthrone, vanillin, coniferylaldehyde, 2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 3-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4-

Methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 3-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,3-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,6- dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,3-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4- Hydroxy-2,6-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 3,5-diethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,6- Diethoxy-4-hydroxy-benzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4- Ethoxy-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxy-3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,6-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 3, 5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,5-

Trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,6-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,4- Dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2, 5,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-diethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-pyrrolidinobenzaldehyde, 4-morpholinobenzaldehyde, 2- Morpholinobenzaldehyde, 4-piperidinobenzaldehyde, 2-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-1 - naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2, 4-dimethoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-hydroxy 1 -naphthaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxycinnamaldehyde, 4-dimethylaminocinnamaldehyde, 2-Dim ethylaminobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-diethylamino cinnamaldehyde, 4-dibutylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-diphenylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4- (1 -imidazolyl) -benzaldehyde, piperonal, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-1H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-8-hydroxy-1H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, N-ethylcarbazole-3-aldehyde, 2-formylmethylene-1,3,3-trimethylindoline (Fischer's aldehyde or tribasic aldehyde), 2-indolaldehyde, 3-indolaldehyde, 1 -Methylindole-3-aldehyde, 2-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 1-acetylindole-3-aldehyde, 3-acetylindole, 1-methyl-3-acetylindole, 2- (1 ', 3', 3'-trimethyl-2 indolidenes) -acetaldehyde, 1-methylpyrrole-2-aldehyde, 1-methyl-2-acetylpyrrole, 4-pyridinealdehyde, 2-pyridinealdehyde, 3-pyridinaldehyde, 4-acetylpyridine, 2-acetylpyridine, 3-acetylpyridine, Pyridoxal, quinoline-3-aldehyde, quinoline-4-aldehyde, antipyrine-4-aldehyde, furfural, 5-nitofurfural, 2-thenoyl-trifluoro-acetone , Chromone-3-aldehyde, 3- (5'-nitro-2'-furyl) -acrolein, 3- (2'-furyl) -acrolein and imidazole-2-aldehyde, 1, 3-diacetylbenzene, 1, 4- Diacetylbenzene, 1, 3,5-triacetylbenzene, 2-benzoyl-acetophenone, 2- (4'-methoxybenzoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-furoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-pyridoyl) -acetophenone, and 2 - (3'-pyridoyl) acetophenone, benzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 2-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 4-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-dimethylaminobenzylidene acetone, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzylideneacetone, 4-pyrrolidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-piperidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-morpholinobenzylideneacetone, 4-diethylamino benzylideneacetone, 3-benzylidene-2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 2-benzylidenecyclohexanone, 2- (4 '-Hydroxybenzylidene) -cyclohexanone, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -cyclohexanone, 2-benzylidene-1, 3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -1, 3-cyclohexanedione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene ) -1, 3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidene-5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4 ' -Hydroxy-3-methoxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidenecyclopentanone, 2 '- (4 Hydroxybenzylidene) cyclopentanone, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -cyclopentanone, 5- (4-dimethylamino-phenyl) -penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-diethylaminophenyl) -penta-2,4-dienal, 5 - (4-methoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4- dienal, 5- (4-piperidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-

Morpholinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 6- (4-dimethylaminophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-diethylaminophenyl ) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-diene-2 -on, 6- (2,4-Dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-piperidinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-morpholinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 5- (4-dimethylamino-1-naphthyl) penta-3,5-dienal, 2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-methyl-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-hydroxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxybenzaldehyde 5-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-fluoro-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-methoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-chloro-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-6-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-chloro-2 nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-chloro-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2,4-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2,6-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-methoxy-5-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4,5-dimethoxy-2-nitrobenza aldehyde, 6-nitropiperonal, 2-nitropiperonal, 5-nitrovanillin, 2,5-dinitrosalicylaldehyde, 5-bromo-3-nitrosalicylaldehyde, 3-nitro-4-formylbenzenesulfonic acid, 4-nitro-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 3-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 4-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 9-methyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 9-ethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 3-acetylcarbazole, 3,6-diacetyl-9-ethyl-carbazole, 3-acetyl-9-methylcarbazole, 1, 4-Dimethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 1, 4,9-trimethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 4-formyl-1-methylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 2-formyl 1-ethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1, 2-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1, 3-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 2-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-formyl 1-methylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 7-Formyl-1-ethyl-quinolinium, 8-formyl-1-ethyl-quinolinium, 5-formyl-1-benzyl-quinolinium-6-formyl-1-benzyl-quinolinium, 7-formyl-1-benzyl-quinolinium, 8-formyl-1-benzyl-quinolinium , 5-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 6-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 7-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium and 8-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 6-acetyl 1-methylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 8 Acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-benzylquinoliniu m-, 8-acetyl-1-benzyl-quinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-allyl-quinolinium and 8-acetyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 9-formyl 10-methylacridinium, 4- (2'-formylvinyl) -1-methylpyridinium, 1, 3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formylphenyl) -benzimidazolium, 1, 3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formylphenyl ) imidazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-acetylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzoxazolium, 2- ( 5'-formyl-2'-furyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-furyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-thienyl) 3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (3'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formyl-1-naphthyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 5-chloro-2- (4'-formylphenyl) 3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3,5-dimethylbenzothiazolium salts, preferably with benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, methanesulfonate, perchlorate, sulfate, chloride, bromide, iodide, tetrachlorozincate, methylsulfate, trifluoromethane - sulfonate od he tetrafluoroborate as counterion, isatin, 1-methyl-isatin, 1-allyl-isatin, 1-hydroxymethyl-isatin, 5-chloro-isatin, 5-methoxy-isatin, 5-nitro-isatin, 6-nitro-isatin, 5-sulfo -isatin, 5-carboxy-isatin, quinisatin, 1-methyl-quinisatin, and any mixtures of the above compounds.

As CH-acidic compounds are generally considered to carry a bound to an aliphatic carbon atom hydrogen atom, wherein due to electron-withdrawing substituents activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond is effected. Fall under CH-acidic compounds According to the invention, also enamines which are formed by alkaline treatment of quaternized N-heterocycles with a CH-acidic alkyl group in conjugation to the quaternary nitrogen.

The CH-acidic compounds of component 2 are preferably selected from the group consisting of 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methylenindoline (Fischer's base), 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium-p- toluenesulfonate, 2,3-dimethyl-naphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methyl-naphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, rhodanine-3 acetic acid, 1, 4-dimethylquinolinium iodide, 1, 2-dimethylquinolinium iodide, barbituric acid, thiobarbituric acid, 1,3-dimethylthiobarbituric acid, 1,3-diethylthiobarbituric acid, 1,3-diethylbarbituric acid, oxindole, 3-indoxylacetate, 2- Coumaranone, 5-hydroxy-2-cumaranone, 6-hydroxy-2-cumaranone, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-pyrazolin-5-one, indan-1, 2-dione, indan-1, 3-dione, indanine 1-one, benzoylacetonitrile, 3-dicyanomethylenedan-1-one, 2-amino-4-imino-1,3-thiazoline hydrochloride, 5,5-dimethyl cyclohexane-1,3-dione, 2H-1,4-benzoxazin-4H-3-one, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzoxazolium iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzothiazolium iodide, 1-ethyl-4-methyl quinolinium iodide, 1-ethyl-2-methylquinolinium iodide, 1, 2,3-trimethyl-quinoxalinium iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzoxazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1 - Ethyl 4-methyl-quinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, 1-ethyl-2-methylquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, and 1,2,3-trimethylquinoxaluminum p-toluenesulfonate.

Preferred primary or secondary aromatic amines of component 2 are selected from N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N-ethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2.5- Dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholinoaniline, 2-aminophenol, 3-aminophenol, 4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl 4-aminophenol, o-phenylenediamine, m-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-diaminotoluene, 2,5-diaminophenol, 2,5-diaminoanisole, 2,5, diaminophenethol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2 - (2,5-diaminophenyl) ethanol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2- hydroxyethyloxy) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 4-methylaminophenol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 2-methyl 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) phenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-methyl-5-amino-4-chlorophenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 4 Amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 2- (diethylaminomethyl) -4-aminophenol, 4-amino-1-hydroxy-2- (2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) -benzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-methyl-benzene, 1 - Hydroxy-2-amino-6-methyl-benzene, 2-amino-5-acetamido-phenol, 1, 3-dimethyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 5-amino 4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, N, N-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 5-amino-4-fluoro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-5-fluorotoluene, 2 , 4-diamino-5- (2-hydroxyethoxy) toluene, 2,4-diamino-5-methylphenol, 3,5-diamino-2-methoxy-1-methylbenzene, 2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) anisole, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 1, 3-diamino-2,4-dimet hoxybenzene, 3,5-diamino-2-methoxy-toluene, 2-aminobenzoic acid, 3-aminobenzoic acid, 4-aminobenzoic acid, 2-aminophenylacetic acid, 3-aminophenylacetic acid, 4-aminophenylacetic acid, 2,3-diaminobenzoic acid, 2,4- Diaminobenzoic acid, 2,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid 3,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 4-aminosalicylic acid, 5-aminosalicylic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 2 -Aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 4-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxynaphthalene-1-sulfonic acid, 6-amino-7-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 7-amino 4-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 4-amino-5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid, 3-amino-2-naphthoic acid, 3-aminophthalic acid, 5-aminoisophthalic acid, 1, 3,5-triaminobenzene, 1 , 2,4-triaminobenzene, 1, 2,4,5-tetraaminobenzene, 2,4,5-triamino-phenol, pentaaminobenzene, hexaaminobenzene, 2,4,6-triaminoresorcinol, 4,5-diamino-catechol, 4,6 -Diaminopyrogall ol, 1- (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) -2-imidazolidinone, 4-amino-2 - ((4 - [(5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methyl] piperazinyl) methyl) phenol, 3.5 Diamino-4-hydroxy-catechol, 1,4-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, aromatic nitriles such as 2-amino-4-hydroxybenzonitrile, 4-amino-2-hydroxybenzonitrile, 4-aminobenzonitrile, 2 , 4-diaminobenzonitrile, amino groups containing nitro groups, such as 3-amino-6-methylamino-2-nitro-pyridine, picric acid, [8 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) -azo] -7-hydroxy-naphthene 2-yl] -trimethylammonium chloride, [8 - ((4-amino-3-nitrophenyl) -azo) -7-hydroxy-naphth-2-yl] -trimethylammonium chloride (Basic Brown 17), 1-hydroxy-2-amino- 4,6-dinitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene, 1-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 5), 1-amino-2-nitro-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene (HC Red No. 7), 2-chloro-5-nitro-N-2-hydroxyethyl-1,4 phenylenediamine, 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitro-4-aminobenzene (HC Red No. 3), 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-amino-2-nitrophenol, 6 Nitro-o-toluidine, 1-amino-3-methyl-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet No. 1), 1-amino-2-nitro-4- [ (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -5-chlorobenzene (HC Red No. 10), 2- (4-amino-2-nitroanilino) benzoic acid, 6-nitro-2,5-diaminopyridine, 2 -Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2- (3-nitrophenylazo) -7-phenylazo-8-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (Acid blue No. 29), 1-amino-2 - (2-hydroxy-4-nitrophenylazo) -8-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (palatinchrome green), 1-amino-2- (3-chloro-2-hydroxy-5-nitrophenylazo) -8-naphthol 3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (gallium), 4-amino-4'-nitrostilbene-2 , 2'-disulfonic acid disodium salt, 2,4-diamino-3 ', 5'-dinitro-2'-hydroxy-5-methylazobenzene (Mordant brown 4), 4'-amino-4-nitrodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4'-amino-3'-nitrobenzophenone-2-carboxylic acid, 1-amino-4-nitro-2- (2-nitrobenzylideneamino) -benzene, 2- [2- (diethylamino) -ethylamino] -5-nitroaniline, 3 Amino-4-hydroxy-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-3'-nitrobiphenyl, 3-amino-4-nitro-acenaphthene, 2-amino-1-nitronaphthalene, 5-amino-6-nitrobenzo-1,3-dioxole , Anilines, in particular nitro-group-containing anilines, such as 4-nitroaniline, 2-nitroaniline, 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1, 2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-methyl-6-nitrobenzene, 4-nitro-1,3-phenylenediamine, 2-nitro-4-amino-1- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -benzene, 2-nitro-1-amino-4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino ] -benzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 1-amino-5-chloro-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, aromatic anilines or phenols with another aromatic radical, such as are shown in the formula II

in the

• R ⁷ represents a hydroxy or an amino group which _-4 hydroxyalkyl, Ci _-4 alkoxy or Ci _-4 alkoxy-Ci _-4 alkyl groups may be substituted is by Ci _-4 alkyl, Ci, . • R ^8, R ^9, R ^10, R ¹¹ and R ¹² independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy or an amino group represented by -C ₄ alkyl, Ci-C ₄ hydroxyalkyl, dC ₄ - alkoxy, dC ₄ -aminoalkyl or C 1 -C ₄ -alkoxy-C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl groups may be substituted, and

P is a direct bond, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by hydroxyl groups carbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a carbonyl, sulfoxy, sulfonyl or imino group, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group having the formula III

-O '- (CH ₂ -Q-CH ₂ -Q ¹ V (HI)

in the

Q signifies a direct bond, a CH ₂ or CHOH group,

• Q 'and Q "are each independently an oxygen atom, an NR ¹³ group wherein R ¹³ is a hydrogen atom, a Ci _-4 alkyl or hydroxy-Ci _-4 kylgruppe -AL-, wherein both groups together with the Residual molecule can form a 5-, 6- or 7-membered ring, means the group O- (CH ₂ ) _P -NH or NH- (CH ₂ ) pO, wherein p and p 'are 2 or 3, and

O is a number from 1 to 4,

such as 4,4'-diaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4,4'-diaminostilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid mono- or di-Na salt, 4-amino-4'-dimethylaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4, 4'-diaminodiphenylmethane, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfoxide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4,4'-diaminobenzophenone, 4,4 ' Diaminodiphenyl ether, 3,3 ', 4,4'-tetraaminodiphenyl, 3,3', 4,4'-tetraaminobenzophenone, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1, 8 - bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, 1,3-bis- (4-aminophenylamino) propane, 1,1,3-bis (4-aminophenylamino) -2-propanol, 1, 3 Bis- [N- (4-aminophenyl) -2-hydroxyethylamino] -2-propanol, N, N-bis [2- (4-aminophenoxy) ethyl] methylamine, N-phenyl-1,4 phenylenediamine and bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane. The abovementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, in particular as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid.

Suitable nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds are, for. B. 2-aminopyridine, 3-aminopyridine, 4-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (aminoethylamino) -5-aminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-pyridine, 2-dimethylamino-5-amino-pyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,6- Dimethoxy-3,5-diamino-pyridine, 2,4,5-triamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, N- [2- (2,4-diaminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N - (5-amino-2-pyridyl) -amine, N- [2- (4-aminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N- (5-amino-2-pyridyl) -amine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6- diaminopyrimidine, 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-methylamino 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-diaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diaminopyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methoxy-6-methylpyrimidine, 3,5-diaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1, 2,4-triazole, 3-aminopyrazole, 3-amino-5-hydroxypyrazole, 1-phenyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1-phenyl-3-methyl- 4,5-diaminopyrazole, 4-amino 2,3-dimethyl-1-phenyl-3-pyrazolin-5-one (4-aminoantipyrine), 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2-aminoquinoline, 3-aminoquinoline, 8-aminoquinoline, 4-aminoquinaldine , 2-aminonicotinic acid, 6-aminonicotinic acid, 5-aminoisoquinoline, 5-aminoindazole, 6-aminoindazole, 5-aminobenzimidazole, 7-aminobenzimidazole, 5-aminobenzothiazole, 7-aminobenzothiazole, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholino aniline and indole and indoline derivatives such as 4-aminoindole, 5-aminoindole, 6-aminoindole, 7-aminoindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 4-hydroxyindoline. Furthermore, as heterocyclic compounds, the hydroxypyrimidines disclosed in DE-U 1-299 08 573 can be used according to the invention. The aforementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, for. B. as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid, are used.

Suitable aromatic hydroxy compounds are, for. 2-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, brenzkitechine, hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucinol, hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-methoxyphenol, 3 Methoxyphenol, 4-methoxyphenol, 3-dimethylaminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-phenylacetic acid, 3,4-dihydroxy phenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7 Dihydroxynaphthalene, 6-dimethylamino-4-hydroxy-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid and 3,6-dihydroxy-2,7-naphthalenesulfonic acid.

The compounds of component 1 and the compounds of component 2 are preferably used in the cosmetic compositions in each case in an amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, in particular from 1 to 40 mmol, based on 100 g of the total Nuanciermittels used. The molar ratio of the compound of component 1 and the compound of component 2 may range from 0.5 to 2.0, preferably using equimolar amounts. The ready-to-use agent is prepared by separate mixing of components 1 and 2 immediately prior to application.

As precursors of naturally-analogous dyes, preference is given to using as oxidation dye precursor of the developer type such indoles and indolines which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. In a second preferred embodiment, the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.

Particularly suitable precursors of natural-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (IVa),

in the independently of each other

R ¹ is hydrogen, a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group or a C 1 -C ₄ -hydroxy-alkyl group,

R ² is hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation, R ³ is hydrogen or a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group,

R ⁴ is hydrogen, a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group or a group -CO-R ⁶ , in which R ⁶ is a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group, and R ⁵ is one of the groups mentioned under R ⁴ , as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6 dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid and 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline.

Particularly noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-Dihydroxyindolin.

Also suitable as precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of the 5,6-dihydroxyindole of the formula (IVb), in the independently of each other

R ¹ is hydrogen, a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group or a C 1 -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl group,

R ² is hydrogen or a -COOH group, wherein the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,

R ³ is hydrogen or a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group,

R ⁴ is hydrogen, a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group or a group -CO-R ⁶ , in which R ⁶ is a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group, and

R ⁵ is one of the groups mentioned under R ⁴ , as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

Particularly preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Emphasized within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, and especially the 5,6 -Dihydroxyindol.

Preferred substantive dyes which are used in the cosmetic compositions as color-modifying component are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds as well as 1, 4 Diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2 ' - hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene , 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene ,

Further, the cosmetic agents may contain a cationic substantive dye. Particularly preferred are

(a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,

(b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as

(c) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as mentioned, for example, in EP-A2-998 908, which is incorporated herein by reference, in claims 6 to 11.

Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:

CH ₃ SO ₄ ^"

Cl ^"

The compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c). The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

The cosmetic compositions contain the substantive dyes preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the ready-to-use agent.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also naturally occurring dyes such as henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and alkano root are included.

It is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes to be in each case homogeneous compounds. Rather, in the cosmetic products, due to the production processes for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.

With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publisher, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

The actual oxidative colorant is prepared by separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before use by mixing. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent is therefore mixed before application from a composition comprising at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetic carrier and a further composition containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. When using oxidizing agents, the ready-to-use composition is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a composition containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-changing components. The resulting ready-to-use hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10.

For a color change by means of brightening or bleaching of the hair, in addition to the oxidizing agents, at least one bleaching booster is preferably used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

Bleach boosters are preferably used in bleaching agents for increasing the bleaching action of the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide.

As bleach amplifiers, it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid. Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups. Preference is given to polyacylated alkylenediamines, in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5- Diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.

As bleach booster, carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts can preferably be used according to the invention. These are preferably selected from the group of ammonium, alkali (especially sodium and potassium), and alkaline earth (especially calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Especially Preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, disodium carbonate,

Potassium bicarbonate, dipotassium carbonate and calcium carbonate. These particularly preferred salts can be used alone or in their mixtures of at least two representatives as bleaching amplifiers.

As bleach booster of the type of monoalkyl carbonates and their derivatives, at least one carbonic acid monoester and / or at least one carbonic acid monoamide are preferably used in the process according to the invention. Preferred carbonic acid monoesters are the carbonic acid monoesters of the formula (V),

R-O-C-O-H (V)

Il

in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

In formula (V), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. R is particularly preferably _-6 alkyl group is a C. Examples of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.

Compositions particularly preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (V) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, te / f Butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals. As an alternative to the carbonic acid monoester or in conjunction with it, carbonic acid monoamides can be used as bleach boosters in the anhydrous compositions. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention to use at least one carbonic acid monoamide of the formula (VI),

R-NH-C-O-H (VI)

Wherein each O is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

In formula (VI), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. R is particularly preferably _-6 alkyl group is a C. Examples of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.

Bleach enhancers of the formula (VI) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (VI) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl , te / f-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

The acidic H atom of the carbonic acid monoester or monoamide can also be present in neutralized form, ie according to the invention it is also possible to use salts of carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic acid monoamides. According to the invention, carbonic acid monoesters or the carbonic monoamide are preferred here, which are present in completely or partially neutralized form, preferably in the form of the alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal or aluminum salt and in particular in the form of its sodium salt.

As bleach boosters of the type of silyl carbonates and derivatives thereof, at least one silyl carbonate and / or at least one silyl carbamate are preferably incorporated into the compositions according to the invention. Preference is given to using silyl carbonates of the formula (VII)

R ²

R ¹ -Si-OCOR ⁴ (VII)

R ³ O

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radical R ^{4 is} a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R ¹ , R ² or R ³ , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted SiIyI or Aluminylgruppe or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

Preferred radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in the abovementioned formula (VII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals. Among these, the alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferred anhydrous compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in formula (VII) are selected from Methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, te / f-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

Preferred radicals R ⁴ in the abovementioned formula (VII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.

As bleach booster, at least one silyl carbamate of the formula (VIII) may be present in the anhydrous composition according to the invention,

R ²

R ¹ -Si-OC-NR ⁴ R ⁵ (VIII)

R ³ O

where the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radicals R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another for a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R ¹ , R ² or R ³ , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted SiIyI or alumyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubs substituted heterocycle.

Preferred radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals. Among these are the Alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferably used compositions are characterized in that the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in formula (VIII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, te / f-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

Preferred radicals R ⁴ and R ⁵ in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.

As further additional bleach boosters, in the compositions according to the invention preferably at least one compound selected from acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and ortho-phthalic acid may be contained.

Bleach amplifiers are preferably peroxo compounds. Among the bleach-enhancing peroxy compounds according to the invention there are no addition products of hydrogen peroxide to other components and also not hydrogen peroxide itself. Moreover, the choice of peroxo compounds is subject to no restrictions. Preferred peroxo compounds are peroxydisulfate salts, persulfate salts, (in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate,

Ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxide phosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide). Among these peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination, the inorganic compounds are preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate.

The bleach boosters are present in the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 5-30% by weight, in particular in amounts of 8-20% by weight.

The cosmetic agents of the invention, when acting as bleaching agents, contain as preferred alkalizing agent at least one compound selected from Ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarbonates, metasilicates and carbamides, and alkali phosphates.

The cosmetic agents used in the process according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations:

The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.

In many cases, the agents contain at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in the cosmetic compositions are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 2 or 3 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps )

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group, Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 12 to 18 C atoms, linear alpha Olefinsulfonate with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates and Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -SO ₃ H, in the R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, anionic Alkyloligoglykoside or anionic Alkenyloligoglykosid derivatives selected from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, - phosphates and / or -isethionaten, which differs from Derive alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of general formula (IX), RO- (G) _P (IX) with the meaning R Cβ- _22- alkyl or C _6-22 -alkenyl,

G glycoside unit which is derived from a sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, p number from 1 to 10, in particular the Laurylglucosidcarboxylat, such as is available as Plantapon ^® LGC from Cognis Germany, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030 sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups. in the molecule and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. For example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether or a combination of polyol and Polyglykolether- group. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, Ci C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -Al ky I mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs and addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R ¹ O- (Z) _x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R ¹ contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R ¹ . Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds. And Cio-alkyl groups essentially of C ₂ - - C ₄ alkyl groups and consists essentially of C ₈ - to C ₆ -alkyl or substantially of Ci ₂ Particularly preferred alkyl polyglycosides are those in which R ¹ is essentially of C ₈ - To Ci ₆ alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.

In addition to their surfactant action, the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair. The person skilled in the art will therefore prefer to use this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.

The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^H - or wear. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, the cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dime- thylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethyl- hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Also particularly suitable as co-surfactants are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and to form internal Salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate the, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C ₂ -i ₈ acyl sarcosine.

According to the invention, the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which have at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element. hold. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-Palmitoyloxy- ethyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 stearamidopropyldimethylamine commercial dimethylamin.

Further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.

Also suitable in the present invention are cationic silicone oils such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® - Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80.).

An example of a suitable cationic surfactant quaternary sugar derivative is the commercially available product Glucquat ^® 100 is, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl GIu- Ceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride".

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to start with the production of these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so that substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths obtained.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one silicone. The silicones, if they are present in the agents according to the invention, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use agent.

Most preferably, the silicones are selected from at least one

Representatives from the list, which is formed from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked; (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups;

I) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted onto them non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least at one of its ends; Silicone contains, such as the marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone commercial product Abil B 8832 Degussa;

(vi) or mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-1)

(CH3) 3 Si- [O-Si (CH ₃₎ 2] χ-O-Si (CH ₃₎ 3 (Si-1),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10. The inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain a silicone of the above formula (Si-1). These silicones are referred to as dimethicones according to the INCI nomenclature. It is in the context of the present invention as the silicone of the formula (Si-1), preferably the compounds:

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] io-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ii-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) s -Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] i ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] i ₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) s

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] i ₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) s -Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) s -Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ o-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred.

Of course, mixtures of the above-mentioned silicones may also be present in the preferred agents according to the invention. Preferred silicones can be used according to the invention have viscosities at 20 ⁰ C of 0.2 bbiiss 22 ²² mmmm ss ^{"" 11} a, where silicones with viscosities of from 0.5 to 1 mm ² s ^"are particularly preferable. ¹

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)

M (R _a Q _b SiO ₍₄ -ab) / ₂₎ _x (RcSiO _(4-c) / ₂₎ y M (Si-2)

Be described, taking in the above formula

R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6

Carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein

R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and

Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x a number in the range of 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about

50 and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group is, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R in formula (Si-2) include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, - OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably a - NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is O

Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In the formula (Si-2), α takes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. the molar ratio of R _a Q _b SiO ₍₄ - _a - _{b) / 2} units to R _c SiO ₍₄ - _{c) / 2} units in the formula (Si-2) is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1: 65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula (Si-2) are employed, the various variable substituents in the above formula can be used for the various silicone components described in U.S. Pat the silicone blend are present, be different.

Preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3)

R ' _a G ₃ -a-Si (OSiG ₂ ) n- (OSiG _b R' _2, _b ) mO-SiG ₃ -a-R'a (Si-3),

where:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

-O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-

C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ,

-C (CH ₃ ),; a is a number between O and 3, in particular O; b is a number between O and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from

-QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂

-QN (FT) ₂

-QN ⁺ (R ") ₃ A-

-QN ⁺ H (R ") ₂ A ^"

-QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") A ^"

-QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ A ^" , wherein each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

-C (CHa) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

R "represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl,

-CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci _-20- alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from

Chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Cationic silicone oils, such as the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5 are suitable according to the invention -7113 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary. Polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n [O-Si (CH ₃ )] _m -OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-3a),

I CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone). Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

R- [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -O] _n1 [Si (R ') - O] _m - [Si (CH3) ₂ -O] _n2 SiMe ₂ R (Si-3b),

I (CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

contain, in which

R is -OH, (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (Ci bis

C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,

R 'is -OH, a (Ci to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150 is, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g is. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.

The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.

The silicone-in-water emulsions which can be used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes, as disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,998,537 and EP 0 874 017 A1.

In summary, this method of preparation comprises the emulsifying mixture of components, one of which contains at least one polysiloxane, the other of which contains at least one organosilicone material which reacts with the polysiloxane in a chain extension reaction, with at least one metal ion-containing catalyst for the chain extension reaction, at least one surfactant and water present are. Chain extension reactions with polysiloxanes are known and may include, for example, the hydrosilylation reaction in which an Si-H group having an aliphatically unsaturated group in the presence of a platinum / rhodium catalyst to form polysiloxanes having some Si (C) _P- Si bonds (p = 1-6), the polysiloxanes also being referred to as polysiloxanes-polysilalkylenes copolymers.

The chain extension reaction may also include the reaction of an Si-OH group (e.g., a hydroxy-terminated polysiloxane) with an alkoxy group (e.g., alkoxysilanes, silicates, or alkoxysiloxanes) in the presence of a metal-containing catalyst to form polysiloxanes.

The polysiloxanes used in the chain extension reaction comprise a substantially linear polymer of the following structure:

R-Si (R ₂ JIO-Si (R ₂ Hn-O-SiR ₃

In this structure, each R independently represents a hydrocarbon radical having up to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as an alkyl group (for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl), an aryl group (for example, phenyl), or group required for the chain extension reaction ("reactive group", for example, Si-bonded H atoms, aliphatic unsaturated groups such as vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, hydroxy, alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy or propoxy, alkoxy-alkoxy, acetoxy, amino, etc.), with the proviso that on average one to two reactive groups are present per polymer, n is a positive number> 1. Preferably, a plurality of the reactive groups, more preferably> 90%, and especially> 98% of the reactive groups, at the terminal Si -Atomen bound in siloxane. Preferably, n is numbers describing polysiloxanes having viscosities between 1 and 1,000,000 mm ² / s, more preferably viscosities between 1,000 and 100,000 mm ² / s.

The polysiloxanes may be branched to a low degree (for example, <2 mol% of the siloxane units), but the polymers are substantially linear, more preferably fully linear. In addition, the substituents R can in turn be substituted be, for example, with N-containing groups (for example, amino groups), epoxy groups, S-containing groups, Si-containing groups, O-containing groups, etc. Preferably, at least 80% of the radicals R are alkyl radicals, more preferably methyl groups.

The organosilicone material that reacts with the polysiloxane in the chain extension reaction may be either a second polysiloxane or a molecule that acts as a chain extender. When the organosilicone material is a polysiloxane, it has the above-mentioned general structure. In these cases, one polysiloxane in the reaction has (at least) one reactive group, and a second polysiloxane has (at least) a second reactive group that reacts with the first.

If the organosilicone material comprises a chain-extending agent, it may be a material such as a silane, a siloxane (e.g. disiloxane or trisiloxane) or a silazane. For example, a composition comprising a polysiloxane according to the general structure described above having at least one Si-OH group can be chain extended by reacting with an alkoxysilane (for example, a dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane) in the presence of tin or titanium-containing catalysts is reacted.

The metal-containing catalysts in the chain extension reaction are usually specific for a particular reaction. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, metals such as platinum, rhodium, tin, titanium, copper, lead, etc. In a preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane having at least one aliphatically unsaturated group, preferably an end group, is reacted with an organosilicone material Presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst which is a siloxane or polysiloxane having at least one (preferably terminal) Si-H group. The polysiloxane has at least one aliphatically unsaturated group and satisfies the general formula given above in which R and n are as defined above, with an average of between 1 and 2 groups R having one aliphatically unsaturated group per polymer. Representative aliphatically unsaturated groups are, for example, vinyl, allyl, hexenyl and cyclohexenyl or a group R ² CH = CHR ³ in which R ^{2 is} a divalent aliphatic silicon-bonded chain and R ^{3 is} a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group. The organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group preferably has the above-mentioned structure, wherein R and n are as defined above and wherein, on average, between 1 and 2 groups R is hydrogen and n is 0 or a positive integer.

This material may be a polymer or a low molecular weight material such as a siloxane (for example, a disiloxane or a trisiloxane).

The polysiloxane having at least one aliphatic unsaturated group and the organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group react in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, platinum and rhodium-containing materials. The catalysts may take any known form, for example platinum or rhodium supported on support materials (such as silica gel or activated carbon) or other suitable compounds such as platinum chloride, salts of platinum or chloroplatinic acids. Chloroplatinic acid either as a commercially available hexahydrate or in anhydrous form is a preferred catalyst because of the good dispersibility in Organosilikonsyste- men and the slight color change.

In a further preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane having at least one Si-OH group, preferably an end group, is reacted with an organosilicone material having at least one alkoxy group, preferably a siloxane having at least one Si-OR group or an alkoxysilane having at least two alkoxy groups , In this case, the catalyst used is again a metal-containing catalyst.

For the reaction of an Si-OH group with an Si-OR group, there are many catalysts known from the literature, for example organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes. Examples include tin octoate, dibutyltin dilaurate, dibutyltin diacetate, dimethyl tin dineodecanoate, Dibutyltin dimethoxide, isobutyltin tricosterate, dimethyltin dibutyrate, dimethyltin dineodecanoate, triethyltin tartrate, tin oleate, tin naphthenate, tin butyrate, tin acetate, tin benzoate, tin sebacate, tin succinate, tetrabutyl titanate, tetraisopropyl titanate, tetraphenyl titanate, tetraoctadecyl titanate, titanium naphthanate, ethyl triethanolamine Titanate, titani diisopropyl diethyl acetoacetate, titanium diisopropoxy diacetyl acetonate and titanium tetra alkoxides in which the alkoxide is butoxy or propoxy.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)

R ₃ Si [O-SiR 2] χ- (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] y O-SiR 3 (Si-5),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci _-20- alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CHa) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. According to preferred means of the embodiment with a silicone are characterized in that the silicone is water-soluble.

Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

R'-Si - [OSi (CHg) ₂ ] _X - (OC ₂ H ₄ ) _a - (OC ₃ H ₆ ) _b -OR "

(Si-7) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10 and a and b are integers from 0 to 50 , preferably from 10 to 30.

Compounds falling within the above formulas are disclosed in the following patent applications, which are incorporated herein by reference: US-A-4,122,029; US-A-4,265,878; US-A-4,421,769 and GB-A-2,066,659.

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING (Dow).

Dimethicone copolyols particularly preferred according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193 (Dow).

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise, in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., in addition one of the following active substance combinations (i) to (xxvii):

(i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone,

(ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one aminated one

Silicone, (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of the

Formula (Si-1), (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of

Formula (Si-2), (v) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of

Formula (Si-3), (vi) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of

Formula (Si-4), (vii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of

Formula (Si-5), (viii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of

Formula (Si-6), (ix) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of

Formula (Si-7) (x) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one silicone, (xi) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and at least one aminated silicone, (xii) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-1), (xiii) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-2), (xiv) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-3), (xv) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4), (xvi) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5), (xvii) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-6), (xviii) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-7), (xix) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone, (xx) at least one bleach booster and at least one aminated silicone, (xxi) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula ( Si-1), (xxii) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of formula (Si-2), (xxiii) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of formula (Si-3), (xiv) at least one bleach booster and at least one Silicone of the formula (Si-4), (xxv) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5), (xxvi) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-6), (xxvii) at least one Bleach booster and at least one silicone of formula (Si-7).

In addition, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one protein hydrolyzate. The protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks keratin DEC ^® (Vincience) Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co) distributed Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda).

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and Wheat protein. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids obtained otherwise, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, may also be used in their place. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Preferably, the protein hydrolysates in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent included.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii): ( i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one

Protein hydrolyzate, (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one

Wheat protein hydrolyzate, (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one

Silk protein hydrolyzate, (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one

Kollagenproteinhydrolysat, (v) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and at least one protein hydrolyzate, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one silk protein hydrolyzate, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally one

(Ix) at least one bleach booster and at least one protein hydrolyzate, (x) at least one bleach booster and at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate, (xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one silk protein hydrolyzate, (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one collagen protein hydrolyzate ,

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one cationic and / or at least one amphoteric polymer.

Cationic polymers are polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the agent These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups . in particular, such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium groups are bound via a Ci _-4 hydrocarbon group to a synthesized from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof, polymer backbone have been found to be particularly suitable. homopolymers of the general formula (P1), R ¹⁸

- [CH ₂ -CI _n X ^" (P1)

CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _m -N ⁺ R ¹⁹ R ²⁰ R ²¹

R ¹⁸ = -H or -CH _3, R ^19, R ²⁰ and R ²¹ are independently selected from _C-M alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n ^"is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion is a natural number and X, as well as monomer units copolymers essentially consisting of the listed in the formula (III) and nonionogenic monomer units, particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹⁸ is a methyl group - R ¹⁹ , R ²⁰ and R ²¹ are methyl groups m is 2.

Suitable physiologically acceptable counter ions X ^"include halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preferred are halide ions, particularly chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. The crosslinking can, if desired, be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)), and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (III) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C- _M- alkyl esters and Methacrylic acid Ci- ₄ alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

Other preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular under the trade name cos media ^® guar and Jaguar ^® distributed products,

Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicon), Dow Corning ^® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone) , SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).,

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

as well as those under the designations

Polyquaternium 2 (e.g., Mirapol® A-15 from Rhodia), Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and

Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Other cationic polymers of the present invention, the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers are usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and hence cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred, such as for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially. chitosans are deacetylated, in different degrees of deacetylation and varying degrees of degradation (molecular weights) are commercially available. Their preparation is, for example, in DE 44 40 625 A1 and described in DE 1 95 03 465 A1.

Particularly suitable chitosans have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5 ^■ 10 ⁵ to 5 ^■ 10 ⁶ (g / mol). For the production of preparations according to the invention, the chitosan must be converted into the salt form. This can be done by dissolving in dilute aqueous acids. Suitable acids are both mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid and organic acids, for example low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids. Furthermore, higher molecular weight alkyl sulfonic acids or alkyl sulfuric acids or

Organophosphoric acids are used, provided that they have the required physiological compatibility. Suitable acids for converting the chitosan into the salt form are e.g. Acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Preferred are low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids such as e.g. Glycolic acid or lactic acid.

The term amphoteric polymers is understood as meaning those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free COOH or SO ₃ H in the molecule.

Containing groups and capable of forming internal salts, zwitterionic polymers containing in the molecule quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^" -

Groups or -SO ₃ ^" groups included, as well

Polymers containing -COOH groups or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary

Contain ammonium groups.

The quaternary ammonium polymers mentioned in the list are preferably used according to the invention as amphoteric polymers.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic and their simple esters.

Further inventively usable amphoteric polymers are those in British Patent Application 2 104 091, the European Patent Application 47 714, the European Offenlegungsschrift No. 217,274, European Offenlegungsschrift No. 283,817 and German Offenlegungsschrift No. 2,817,369.

Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (M1),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^H (M1)

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{H is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (M2),

wherein R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently a (Ci to C ₄ ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and A ^"is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid.

If a cationic group of the amphoteric or cationic polymers is derived from the monomer of the formula (M1), the radicals R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ in the formula (M1) are preferably methyl groups, Z is preferably an NH group and A is ^H is preferably a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion. It is particularly preferred in this case to use acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride as the monomer (M1). In formula (M2), A ^"is preferably a halide ion, in particular chloride or bromide.

Preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are polymers whose anionic group is derived from at least one monomer of the formula (M3)

monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (M3) or their salts with an organic or inorganic acid,

R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (M ³ )

in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

As the monomer (M3), acrylic acid is used for the amphoteric polymers preferred according to the invention.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (M1) or (M2) with the monomer (M3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (M2) and (M3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

In addition, in addition to a monomer (M1) or M (2) and a monomer (M3), the amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally comprise a monomer (M4)

monomeric carboxamides of the general formula (M4),

R ¹⁰ -CH = CR ¹¹ -CNR ¹² (M4) Il HO wherein R ¹⁰ and R ^{11 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{12 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 6) alkyl group.

Very particularly preferably used according to the invention comonomer based on a comonomer (M4) are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (M1), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^H (M1) in the R ¹ and R ² independently represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{H is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and

(ii) monomeric carboxylic acids of general formula (M3), R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (M ³ ) in which R ⁰ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

With regard to the details of the preparation of these particularly preferred polymers is expressly made to the content of German Patent Application 39 29 973 reference. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of type (i) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{H is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion ; Acrylamido-trimethyl-ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used. The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii): ( i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic

Polymer, (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one amphoteric

Polymer, (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic

Polymer derived from at least one monomer from the above

Formulas (M1) and / or (M2), (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one amphoteric

Copoylmer, which is essentially composed of at least one

Monomer of the formula (M1) and at least one monomer of the formula (M3), (v) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and at least one cationic polymer, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and at least one amphoteric polymer, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one cationic polymer derived from at least one monomer from the abovementioned formulas (M1) and / or (M2), (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one amphoteric copolymer, which is composed essentially of at least one monomer of the formula (M1) and at least one monomer of the formula (M3),

(ix) at least one bleach booster and at least one cationic polymer, (x) at least one bleach booster and at least one amphoteric polymer, (xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one cationic polymer derived from at least one monomer from the abovementioned formulas (M1) and / or (M2), (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one amphoteric copolymer, which is composed essentially of at least one monomer of the formula

(M1) and at least one monomer of the formula (M3).

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the effect can be further optimized by adding at least one fatty substance. Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, very particularly preferably amounts of 1-5% by weight. Fatty alcohols which may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁ 0 - C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ - carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight.

The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau. The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the action of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n -Nodecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the High-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18- alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2- ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelaat, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate,

Neopentyl glycol, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90- ^® 018, Monomuls 90-L12 ^® or Cutina ^® MD.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 6 to 45% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.

Furthermore, it has been shown that the effect can be increased if the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid ester contain. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of Ci ₂ -Ci ₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. The amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the agent, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, and very particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight.

Preferred agents of the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier in addition to the

Combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii):

(i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one fatty substance,

(ii) at least one color-changing component and at least one C ₁ to C ₂₂ 0 -

Fatty alcohol, (iii) at least one color-changing component and at least one C ₁ to C ₂₂ 0 -

Fatty acid, (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one natural or synthetic wax, (v) at least one color-modifying component and at least one natural or synthetic oil body, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one fatty substance, (vii ) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one C ₁ 0 to C ₂₂ fatty alcohol, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and at least one C ₁ 0 to C ₂₂ fatty acid, (ix) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one natural or synthetic wax, (x) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one natural or synthetic one

Oil components,

(xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one fatty substance, (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one C ₁ 0 to C ₂₂ fatty alcohol, (xiii) at least one bleach booster and at least one C ₁ 0 to C ₂₂ fatty acid, (xiv) at least one bleach booster and at least one natural or synthetic wax, (xv) at least one bleach booster and at least one natural or synthetic oil body.

It is preferred according to the invention that the agents additionally contain at least one alkalizing agent. The alkalizing agents usable in the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, basic amino acids, alkali hydroxides, alkanolamines, alkali metal metasilicates, urea, morpholine, N-methylglucamine, imidazole, alkali phosphates and alkali hydrogen phosphates. The alkali metal ions used are preferably lithium, sodium, potassium, in particular sodium or potassium.

The basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine, L-histidine, D-histidine, D, L-histidine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D, L-lysine, more preferably L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine used as an alkalizing agent according to the invention.

The alkali metal hydroxides which can be used as the alkalizing agent according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 -Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol , 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol. Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol.

The alkalizing agent is particularly preferably selected from at least one compound from the group formed from 2-aminoethanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol, Potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, D-arginine, DL-arginine, N-methylglucamine, morpholine, imidazole and urea.

(i) at least one color-modifying component and ammonia,

(ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one alkanolamine,

(iii) at least one color-modifying component and 2-aminoethane-1-ol,

(iv) at least one color-modifying component and ammonia and 2-aminoethane-1-ol, (v) at least one color-modifying component and 2-aminoethane-1-ol and L-

Arginine, (vi) at least developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and ammonia, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and at least one alkanolamine, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally one

Coupler component) and 2-aminoethane-1-ol, (ix) at least one developer component (and optionally a

Coupler component) and ammonia and 2-aminoethane-1-ol, (x) at least one developer component (and optionally one

(Xi) at least one bleach booster and ammonia, (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one alkanolamine, (xiii) at least one bleach booster, and 2-aminoethane-1-ol, (xiv) at least one bleach booster and ammonia and 2-aminoethane-1-ol, (xv) at least one bleach booster and 2-aminoethane-1-ol and L-arginine.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. By UV light protection filters are meant organic substances capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer wavelength radiation, e.g. Heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid;

(Dimethylamino) benzoesäureamylester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-

Propyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.

Propane-1,3-diones, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter, in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl 3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). It is furthermore preferred to additionally incorporate at least one plant extract into the compositions according to the invention.

Suitable plant extracts are obtained by extraction with organic solvents (such as, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethyl ether, benzene, benzene, chloroform) or by steam distillation. Examples of preferred plant extracts are extracts of flowers (linden flowers, camomiles, lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (cassis, horse chestnut, rooibos, birch, melissa, clover, grape leaves, geranium, patchouli, petitgrain ), Fruits (anise, cassis, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac -, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, rosemary), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, pines, sandalwood), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, Olibanum, Opoponax).

The plant extracts are particularly preferably selected from at least one extract from the group hamamelis (Hamamelis virginiana L.), vine leaves (Vitis vinifera L.), roses (Rosa gallica L.), sandalwood (Pterocarpus Santalinus), rooibos (Aspalathus linearis), horse chestnut (Aesculus Hippocastanum L.), clover (especially red clover, Trifolium pratense), cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum nees) and cassis (especially from Cassis leaves, Ribes nigrum L.).

Such extracts are preferably used are marketed under the names Herbasol ^® by the company Cosmetochem or Extrapone ^® by the company Symrise.

The plant extracts are contained in the agent according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition.

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers,

Polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes, anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids,

Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone A / inyl acrylate copolymers,

Vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide

terpolymers

Structural agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin,

Egg lecithin and cephalins,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, fiber-structure-improving agents, especially mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl -2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate

Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Active ingredients such as allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol,

Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular those of groups A,

B ₃ , B ₅ , B ₆ , C, E, F and H,

Plant extracts such as extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle,

Witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom,

Almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut,

Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage,

Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme,

Melissa, hominy, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root ,.

Cholesterol,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

fatty acid,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate, and PEG-3-distearate, pigments,

Stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air, antioxidants.

For the second subject of the invention applies mutatis mutandis what has been said for the first subject of the invention.

A third subject of the invention is a method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the hair in a cosmetic carrier and is rinsed from the hair after an exposure time, wherein immediately before the application of the oxidative cosmetic agent a cosmetic Agent containing in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Plotted and optionally rinsed again after an exposure time and / or the oxidative cosmetic product additionally contains an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn.

The exposure time of the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, is preferably 1 to 100 minutes, more preferably 5 to 50 minutes. Again, it is preferred according to the invention to use the method according to the invention in the context of an oxidative hair coloring, the oxidative hair bleaching or the fixation in the context of a permanent wave. It is preferable to apply the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, together with the oxidizing agent on the hair.

In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention as an oxidative hair dyeing method, the extract of the pericarp from Litchi chinensis Sonn is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor in one step in a cosmetic carrier.

The oxidative hair dyes of this embodiment are preferably two-component agents. The first component contains in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, and at least one oxidation dye precursor. The second component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. These components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Shortly before use, both components are mixed together.

In the embodiment of the method according to the invention as an oxidative hair bleaching method, the extract of the pericarp from Litchi chinensis Sonn is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one bleaching booster in one step in a cosmetic carrier.

The oxidative hair bleaches of this embodiment are preferably two- or three-component agents. The first component contains in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, and optionally at least one bleach booster. The bleach booster can also be separated from the extract of Pericarps from Litchi chinensis Sonn, be formulated, for example in powder form, as an anhydrous paste or anhydrous oil. Thereby, a three-component agent is obtained. The last component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. All components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Just before use, all components are mixed together.

The multi-component means described above for carrying out the method according to the invention can be provided in a packaging unit. The packaging unit may comprise at least either a container containing the agent of the second subject of the invention or may comprise at least two containers, a first container containing an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier, a second container containing a cosmetic agent containing, in a cosmetic carrier, an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., and optionally a third container containing at least one bleaching booster embedded in a cosmetic carrier. All Kontainer can also be chambers of a multi-chamber container.

For the third subject of the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the first and second subject of the invention.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it. Examples

The following formulations were provided using known preparation methods. The following commercial products were used as raw materials:

Hydrenol ^® D-Ci6 CI8 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol) (Cognis Germany) Lorol® ^® techn. C ₂ -C 8 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Coconut alcohol) (Cognis Germany)

Stenol 16/18 ^® Ci6- ₁ 8 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (Cognis) 16 Lorol ^® INCI name: Cetyl Alcohol (Cognis) Eumulgin ^® B1 Cetylstearylakohol with 12 EO units

(INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (Cognis Germany)

Eumulgin ^® B2 Cetylstearylalkohol with about 20 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (Cognis Germany)

Edenor ^® C14 myristic acid (INCI name: Myristic Acid) (Cognis) Turpinal SL ^® 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonic acid (INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua (Water)) (Solutia)

Plantapon ^® LGC Alkylpolyglucosid-carboxylate sodium salt; 30% of active ingredient (Cognis Germany) Texapon.RTM ^® NSO UP sodium lauryl ether sulfate (27% active substance; INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (manufactured by COGNIS)

Texapon ^® K 14 S 70 C

Laurylmyristylethersulfat sodium salt (ca. 68% to 73% active substance content ^'; INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (Cognis)

Disponil ^® FES 77 IS fatty alcohol ether sulfate (about 31-33% active ingredient content in

Water; INCI name: Sodium Coceth-30 Sulfate) (Cognis)

Akypo Soft 45 NV ^® 2- ₍₂ Ci -i ₄ fatty alcohol ethoxylate (4.5 EO)) - acetic acid, sodium salt; 21% active substance; INCI name: Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate (KAO)

Gluadin ^® W 40 wheat protein hydrolyzate (at least 40% solids, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben) (Cognis)

Lamesoft ^® PO 65 alkylpolyglucoside monoglyceride mixture (about 65-70% solids; INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua (Water)) (Cognis) Table continued Aculyn ^® 33 30 wt .-% of active substance in water (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer) (Rohm & Haas)

DOW ^Corning® DB 110 A Nonionic Silicone Emulsion (10% by Weight Active Ingredient) (INCI name: dimethicone) (Dow Corning)

Amphoterge K 2 ^® disodium N- [2- (carboxylatomethoxy) ethyl] -N- glycinate [2 - amino] ethyl - [(1 oxododecyl)]; 40% by weight of active substance content (INCI name: Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate (manufacturer: Lonza)

Polymer ^® W 37194 approx. 20% by weight of active substance content in water; INCI name: Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer (Stockhausen)

Plantapon ^® LGC approximately 28-34% active substance content in water; INCI name: Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Lauryl Glucoside (Cognis) Merquat ^® 280 dimethyldiallylammonium acrylic acid copolymer (about 35 active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-22) (Ondeo-Nalco)

Dehyton ^® CN, N-dimethyl-N- (C8-18-cocamidopropyl) ammoniumaceto- betaine (30% active substance; INCI name: Aqua (Water), Cocamidopropyl Betaine) (Cognis)

Edenor ^® PK 1805 oleic acid (INCI name: Oleic Acid) (Cognis) Protelan ^® MST 35 mixture of sodium N-myristoyl sarcosinate and sodium N-methyl-N-cocoyl taurate (40 wt .-% of active substance, Zschimmer & Schwartz)

Mergital ^® CS 5OA fatty alcohol with approx. 50 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-50) (Cognis)

Dehydrol® ^® LS 2 deo N C ₂ - ₁₄ fatty alcohol with about 2 EO units (INCI name: Laureth-2) (Cognis) 1. Effectiveness

1.1 Provision of Test Formulations

The following formulations were prepared by known methods: TABLE 1 Cream formulations

Table 2: oxidative cosmetic agent

1.2 hair treatment

The cream formulations T-O or DO (without extract of the pericarp from Litchi chinensis Sonn.) And T-1 or D1 (with 1, 0% extract according to the invention) were each mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with the oxidative cosmetic T-2. This mixture was applied to hair strands (Kerling Euro natural hair 6/0) at a weight ratio of 4 to 1 for 30 minutes at 32 ° C. The hair tresses were then rinsed with an aqueous solution of 3.8% by weight sodium laureth sulfate (pH 5) for 3 minutes and dried. The process was repeated 3 times.

1.3 Determination of the degree of hair damage by fluorescence spectrometry

For each cream formulation, a strand of hair was treated according to section 1.2.

A sample of the untreated hair and a sample of the hair strands treated according to 1.2 were incubated with the fluorescent marker dansyl chloride to quantify the degree of damage according to the instructions of Sandhu and Robbins and the degree of damage was determined by fluorescence measurements (see: "A sensitive fluorescence technique using dansyl chloride to assess hair damage ": Sandhu, Robbins, J. Soc., Cosmet., Chem., 40, 287-296).

In each case the other 50% of the treated strands were irradiated for 24 hours with UV-B radiation of a radiation intensity of 216 J / cm ² . Finally, dansyl chloride was also incubated here and the degree of damage was determined according to the above method.

Table 3: Fluorescence intensity before UVB irradiation after UVB

radiotherapy

T-O / T-2 98.21 68.71

T-1 / T-2 97.03 74.54

1.4 Determination of the degree of hair damage by means of amino acid analysis

After acidic total hydrolysis of the test hair (treated or untreated), the amino acid composition was determined by ion exchange chromatography. It is known that the oxidative damage of the hair proteins manifests itself in particular in the formation of cysteic acid from cystine. Based on the total amino acid content, a cysteic acid content of 0.94 mol% was measured in untreated hair. This value increased after treatment (each according to point 1.2) with DO / T-2 to 1, 75 mol%, with D-1 / T-2, however, only to 1, 30 mol%. Thus, by using 0.5% of the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, (based on the application mixture) a 55% reduced hair protein damage can be detected. 2. Example recipes

The quantities are, unless otherwise indicated, wt .-% based on the total weight of the respective recipe.

2.1 Blonding agent

Bleaching agents B1, B2 and B3 each consist of a bleaching cream and an associated developer, and a bleach booster. To prepare the ready Blondiermittels 50 g of the bleaching agent were added to 50 g of the corresponding bleaching cream. With stirring, 20 g of the corresponding developer was added. When applied to hair and exposed for 30 minutes, excellent rinsing was observed after rinsing and drying.

2.1.1 Blonding cream

2.1.2 Developer

2.1.3 bleaching amplifier

(NHU) ₂ S ₂ O ₈ 96

Aerosil 200 4

2.2 oxidative color change agents

To prepare a ready-to-use colorant 50 g of a tinting cream of Table 2.2.1 were mixed with stirring with 50 g of a developer according to Table 2.2.2. From each staining cream, three different mixtures were prepared with the help of one of the three developers according to Table 2.2.2. It resulted from each dyeing cream 3 different application mixtures, which differed only in the content of hydrogen peroxide. When applied to the hair of the head and with a contact time of 30 minutes, after rinsing and drying with each application mixture, an excellent dyeing result or for F6 brightening result was achieved. 2.2.1 Dyeing creams

Continuation Table 2.2.1

2.2.2 Developer

Claims

Patent claims

1. Use of an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn.

to improve the gloss of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair,

to improve the combability of keratinous fibers, especially human hair,

to improve the grip of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair,

- To improve the shape keratinhaliger fibers, especially human hair, each in the context of an oxidative hair treatment.

2. A composition comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, a combination of (i) at least one oxidizing agent and

(ii) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. ,

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it contains the extracted substances from the Perikarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in an amount of 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.

4. Composition according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one color-modifying component.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the color-changing component is selected

(A) from at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type of developer components and optionally additionally at least one coupler component and / or (b) from oxo dye precursors and / or

(c) from at least one direct dye and / or

(D) from at least one precursor of natural dyes and / or

(e) at least one bleach booster.

6. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one surfactant.

7. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds.

8. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that the oxidizing agent in an amount of 1, 0 to 10.0 wt .-% based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, is included.

9. A method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent, comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the hair and rinsed after a period of action from the hair, characterized in that

- immediately before the application of the oxidative cosmetic agent, a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Plotted and optionally rinsed again after an exposure time and / or

- the oxidative cosmetic product additionally contains an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn.,.

10. Packaging unit comprising in a first container an oxidative cosmetic agent comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent and in a second container a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. ,