DE102006053692A1 - Using cream during oxidative treatments of hair, e.g. dyeing or bleaching, to reduce oxidative damage to hair and irritation and sensitivity to the scalp - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of cream (A) for (i) reducing oxidative hair damage; (ii) reducing irritation of the scalp and/or (iii) alleviating sensory sensitization of the scalp (especially stinging and itching), where these occur during oxidative hair treatment. Independent claims are included for the following: (1) composition (B) that contains, in a cosmetic carrier, a mixture of oxidizing agent (I) and (A); (2) method of oxidative hair treatment that includes application of (A); and (3) packaged unit comprising, in separate containers, (a) a composition containing (I) in a carrier and (b) cream, in a carrier.

Description

The The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of cream while the oxidative hair treatment to reduce hair damage and to improve scalp sensation. A corresponding procedure for oxidative hair treatment, as well as the agents usable therein are also subject of the present invention.

Human Hair is becoming more diverse today Treated with hair cosmetic preparations. These include about Cleaning hair with shampoos, care and regeneration with rinses and cures, as well as bleaching, dyeing and deforming the hair with colorants, Tints, Wells and styling preparations.

The permanent, oxidative staining as well as the hair bleach and the fixation in the context of perm mostly found as an oxidative hair treatment in the presence of oxidizing agents, like hydrogen peroxide, instead. The oxidizing agent achieved here unfortunately not only the desired one cosmetic effect, but damages additionally the structure of the hair keratin. The keratin's own cystine oxidizes with cysteic acid, which negatively affects the stability, the feel and the look the hair fiber affects. Such damaged hair looks dull and brittle. In extreme cases it even comes to a hair break.

Furthermore comes while the oxidative hair treatment the scalp with the oxidizing agent in touch. That's why the sensitive subject during the oxidative hair treatment is often a misperception on the Scalp. This feeling is usually as a stinging or itching described.

It is the object of the present invention, the previously described Side effects of oxidative hair treatments already during the to reduce oxidative hair treatment, without affecting the efficiency of oxidative cosmetic, in particular with regard to color intensity, color fastness, Brightening performance or corrugation, to worsen.

It was now surprisingly found that the Task to a great extent is solved by the use of cream. The effect unfolds while the oxidative hair treatment.

• – zur Verminderung der oxidativen Haarschädigung,
• – zur Verringerung der Kopfhautirritation und/oder
• – zur Linderung sensorischer Missempfindungen auf der Kopfhaut, wie insbesondere Stechen oder Juckreiz,

jeweils im Rahmen einer oxidativen Haarbehandlung.A first subject of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of cream,

• To reduce oxidative hair damage,
• To reduce scalp irritation and / or
• - to relieve sensory discomfort on the scalp, such as in particular stinging or itching,

each as part of an oxidative hair treatment.

Under an oxidative hair treatment according to the invention, the action an oxidative cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent, defined on hair.

The Oxidizing agents in the context of the invention are of atmospheric oxygen different and have such an oxidation potential that it allows disulfide bridges within or between the proteins of the hair keratin, the natural Color pigment melanin oxidatively lighten and / or an oxidation dye precursor to be oxidized by the developer type.

The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular to inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone · n H ₂ O ₂ (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and Melamine peroxide in question.

According to the invention that oxidative cosmetic agents also together with a catalyst be applied to the hair, the oxidation of the substrate, such as oxidation dye precursors or melanin, activated. Such catalysts are e.g. Metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes.

Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of a color can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

• – Pyranose-Oxidase und z.B. D-Glucose oder Galactose,
• – Glucose-Oxidase und D-Glucose,
• – Glycerin-Oxidase und Glycerin,
• – Pyruvat-Oxidase und Benztraubensäure oder deren Salze,
• – Alkohol-Oxidase und Alkohol (MeOH, EtOH),
• – Lactat-Oxidase und Milchsäure und deren Salze,
• – Tyrosinase-Oxidase und Tyrosin,
• – Uricase und Harnsäure oder deren Salze,
• – Cholinoxidase und Cholin,
• – Aminosäure-Oxidase und Aminosäuren.

Suitable enzymes include peroxidases, which can significantly enhance the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, such enzymes are suitable according to the invention which generate small amounts of hydrogen peroxide in air with the aid of atmospheric oxygen and in this way biocatalytically activate the oxidation of the dye precursors. Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, eg

• Pyranose oxidase and eg D-glucose or galactose,
• Glucose oxidase and D-glucose,
• - glycerol oxidase and glycerin,
• Pyruvate oxidase and pyruvic acid or its salts,
• Alcohol oxidase and alcohol (MeOH, EtOH),
• Lactate oxidase and lactic acid and their salts,
• Tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine,
• Uricase and uric acid or their salts,
• - choline oxidase and choline,
• - amino acid oxidase and amino acids.

The Oxidizing agent is preferably in an amount of 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the oxidative cosmetic agent contain.

Under Cream is inventively rich in fat Part of the milk understood. Milk is defined as the milking of a or more female mammals. Raw milk, as a special form of milk, is the natural, unaltered milk one or more female acid animals, the milk is not over the recovery temperature has been heated. The cream can be by skimming or centrifuging the raw milk or milk.

It is preferred according to the invention, that used in the invention Cream is made from milk, which differs from the raw milk only in that they are screened and used to kill germs over the Recovery temperature of the raw milk has been heated. The heating the milk can for 1 to 1200 seconds at temperatures of 70 ° C to 150 ° C (especially after one of following methods: 15 to 30 seconds at 70 ° C to 75 ° C: short-term heating; 1 to 20 seconds at 85 ° C up to 127 ° C: High Temperature; 1 to 5 seconds at 135 ° C to 150 ° C: UHT), if necessary in an airtight container (in airtight container in particular 600 to 1200 seconds to at least 110 ° C: sterilization), respectively.

The preferred according to the invention usable cream is made from cow's milk, donkey's milk, horse milk, sheep's milk, Goat's milk, reindeer's milk, camel's milk or buffalo's milk, especially preferred from cow's milk, won.

The preferred according to the invention usable cream was neither fermented nor fermented previously Milk won.

The milk fat of the cream used according to the invention preferably contains the following constituents in the following ranges:
From 92 to 96% by weight of triglycerides,
1.0 to 2.0% by weight of diglycerides,
0.1 to 0.5% by weight of free fatty acids,
0.1 to 0.8% by weight of sphingolipids,
0.1 to 1.0% by weight phospholipids,
0.1 to 0.5% by weight sterols,
wherein the sum of the amount of the aforementioned ingredients does not exceed 100% by weight.

The diglycerides or triglycerides of the milk fat of the cream used according to the invention preferably contain the following fatty acids in the following ranges: butyric 2.9 to 5.8% by weight, caproic 1.8 to 4.0% by weight, caprylic 1.0 to 1.8% by weight, capric acid 2.0 to 3.8% by weight, lauric acid 2.4 to 4.0% by weight, myristic 9.5 to 12.0% by weight, Myristoleinsäure From 0.7 to 1.7% by weight, palmitic 25.0 to 36.0% by weight, palmitoleic 1.3 to 2.4% by weight, stearic acid 6.0 to 12.0% by weight, oleic acid 18.0 to 30.0% by weight, linoleic acid 1.0 to 2.8 wt%, linoleic 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, wherein the sum of the amount of the aforementioned ingredients does not exceed 100% by weight.

The Cream is preferred immediately before or during the oxidative hair treatment in the form of an agent containing cream in a cosmetic carrier, used. The agent may prefer the cream in the form of cream powder be added. The cream powder is preferred by spray drying or drum drying the cream, in particular by spray drying, produced.

The Cream powder contains preferably milk fat in an amount of 38 to 44 wt .-%.

The Cream powder contains preferably carbohydrates, in particular lactose, in an amount of From 22 to 32% by weight.

The Cream is incorporated into a cosmetic carrier. As a cosmetic carrier are particularly suitable according to the invention Creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations, especially for the application on the hair are suitable. But it is also conceivable the ingredients in a powdered or tablet-like formulation which is dissolved in water before use. The cosmetic carrier can especially watery or watery-alcoholic be.

One aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as glycerol, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents, in particular glycerol. It is particularly preferred according to the invention to add the cream as a suspension of 5 to 10% by weight of cream powder in a glycerol / water mixture to the composition according to the invention. An inventively preferred raw material is the raw material Extrapone ^® Cream (INCI name: Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Pentylene Glycol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Dried Cream, Xanthan gum, Symrise).

When immediately before the oxidative hair treatment is understood in the sense invention an application to which directly the oxidative hair treatment connects, wherein the cream-containing agent previously rinsed from the hair or was preferably left on the hair and the hair still preferred is wet.

at a simultaneous application of the oxidative cosmetic agent and a cosmetic agent containing cream, both Means, if necessary immediately before use, mixed together are applied to the hair, or successively without intermediate rinse step become. In a preferred embodiment, the invention used oxidative cosmetic means therefore additional cream.

• (i) mindestens einem Oxidationsmittel und
• (ii) Sahne.

A second object of the invention are cosmetic compositions containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of

• (i) at least one oxidizing agent and
• (ii) cream.

preferred cosmetic carriers are those of the first subject of the invention.

Corresponding preferred oxidizing agents were also included in the first Subject of the invention mentioned.

The cosmetic according to the invention Agents preferably contain the cream in an amount of 0.001 to 1.0 wt .-% dry matter of the cream, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% dry matter of the cream, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent. Under dry matter is cream powder understood that contains not more than 5 wt .-% water.

It is preferred according to the invention, the agent of the invention as part of a color change of Hair, to use. For this purpose included the cosmetic Additional funds at least one color-changing Component.

• (a) aus mindestens einem Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Typ der Entwicklerkomponenten und gegebenenfalls zusätzlich mindestens einer Kupplerkomponente und/oder
• (b) aus Oxofarbstoffvorprodukten und/oder
• (c) aus mindestens einem direktziehenden Farbstoff und/oder
• (d) aus mindestens einer Vorstufe naturanaloger Farbstoffe und/oder
• (e) aus mindestens einem Bleichverstärker.

The color-changing component is again preferably selected

• (A) from at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type of developer components and optionally additionally at least one coupler component and / or
• (b) from oxo dye precursors and / or
• (c) from at least one direct dye and / or
• (D) from at least one precursor of natural dyes and / or
• (e) at least one bleach booster.

When Developer components are usually primary aromatic amines with another, in para or ortho position free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.

wobei

• – G¹ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einen 4'-Aminophenylrest oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, der mit einer stickstoffhaltigen Gruppe, einem Phenyl- oder einem 4'-Aminophenylrest substituiert ist;
• – G² steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, der mit einer stickstoffhaltigen Gruppe substituiert ist;
• – G³ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Halogenatom, wie ein Chlor-, Brom-, Iod- oder Fluoratom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Acetylaminoalkoxyrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Mesylaminoalkoxyrest oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Carbamoylaminoalkoxyrest;
• – G⁴ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Halogenatom oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest oder
• – wenn G³ und G⁴ in ortho-Stellung zueinander stehen, können sie gemeinsam eine verbrückende α,ω-Alkylendioxogruppe, wie beispielsweise eine Ethylendioxygruppe bilden.

It may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (Ent1)

in which

• G ¹ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical, a C ₁ to C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkoxy radical (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a 4'-aminophenyl radical or a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl or a 4'-aminophenyl radical;
• G ² represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkoxy radical (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical or a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group;
• G ³ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl, C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy, C ₁ - to C ₄ -acetylaminoalkoxy, C ₁ - to C ₄ -mesylaminoalkoxy or C ₁ - to C ₄ -carbamoylaminoalkoxy;
• - G ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical or
• When G ³ and G ⁴ are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging α, ω-alkylenedioxy group, such as, for example, an ethylenedioxy group.

Examples of the C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl radicals mentioned as substituents in the compounds according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. C ₁ -C ₄ -alkoxy radicals preferred according to the invention are, for example, a methoxy or an ethoxy group. Furthermore, as preferred examples of a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl group, a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl or a 4-hydroxybutyl group may be mentioned. A 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. A particularly preferred C ₂ to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1,2-dihydroxyethyl group.

Examples of halogen atoms are according to the invention F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred. The other terms used are derived according to the invention from the definitions given here. Examples of nitrogen-containing groups of the formula (Ent1) are in particular the amino groups, C ₁ to C ₄ monoalkylamino groups, C ₁ to C ₄ dialkylamino groups, C ₁ to C ₄ trialkylammonium groups, C ₁ to C ₄ monohydroxyalkylamino groups, Imidazolinium and ammonium.

Especially preferred p-phenylenediamines of the formula (Ent1) are selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-Acetylaminoethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 5,8-diaminobenzo-1,4-dioxane as well their physiologically compatible Salt.

Very particular according to the invention preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (Ent1) are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine.

It can continue according to the invention be preferred to use as a developer component compounds, which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are reactive with amino and / or hydroxyl groups are substituted.

wobei:

• – Z¹ und Z² stehen unabhängig voneinander für einen Hydroxyl- oder NH₂-Rest, der gegebenenfalls durch einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, durch einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkylrest und/oder durch eine Verbrückung Y substituiert ist oder der gegebenenfalls Teil eines verbrückenden Ringsystems ist,
• – die Verbrückung Y steht für eine Alkylengruppe mit 1 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise eine lineare oder verzweigte Alkylenkette oder einen Alkylenring, die von einer oder mehreren stickstoffhaltigen Gruppen und/oder einem oder mehreren Heteroatomen wie Sauerstoff-, Schwefel- oder Stickstoffatomen unterbrochen oder beendet sein kann und eventuell durch einen oder mehrere Hydroxyl- oder C₁- bis C₈-Alkoxyreste substituiert sein kann, oder eine direkte Bindung,
• – G⁵ und G⁶ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoff- oder Halogenatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest oder eine direkte Verbindung zur Verbrückung Y,
• – G⁷, G⁸, G⁹, G¹⁰, G¹¹ und G¹² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine direkte Bindung zur Verbrückung Y oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest,

mit den Maßgaben, dass

• – die Verbindungen der Formel (Ent2) nur eine Verbrückung Y pro Molekül enthalten und
• – die Verbindungen der Formel (Ent2) mindestens eine Aminogruppe enthalten, die mindestens ein Wasserstoffatom trägt.

Among the binuclear developer components that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds which correspond to the following formula (Ent2) and their physiologically tolerated salts:

in which:

• - Z ¹ and Z ² independently of one another are a hydroxyl or NH ₂ radical which is optionally substituted by a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, by a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bridge Y. or is optionally part of a bridging ring system,
• - The bridge Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms may be and may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or C ₁ - to C ₈ alkoxy, or a direct bond,
• G ⁵ and G ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical or a direct compound for bridging Y,
• G ⁷ , G ⁸ , G ⁹ , G ¹⁰ , G ¹¹ and G ¹² independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical,

with the stipulations that

• - The compounds of formula (Ent2) contain only one bridge Y per molecule and
• - The compounds of formula (Ent2) contain at least one amino group which carries at least one hydrogen atom.

The substituents used in formula (Ent2) are analogous according to the invention to the above statements Are defined.

preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (Ent2) are in particular: N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) -piperazine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 1,10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and their physiologically tolerable Salts.

All particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (Ent2) are N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane and 1,10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.

wobei:

• – G¹³ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Halogenatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einen Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einen (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, und
• – G¹⁴ steht für ein Wasserstoff- oder Halogenatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest oder einen C₁- bis C₄-Cyanoalkylrest,
• – G¹⁵ steht für Wasserstoff, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen Phenylrest oder einen Benzylrest, und
• – G¹⁶ steht für Wasserstoff oder ein Halogenatom.

Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (Ent3)

in which:

• - G ¹³ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ alkyl, C ₁ - to C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ Alkoxy (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, C ₁ to C ₄ aminoalkyl, hydroxy (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkylamino, C ₁ to C ₄ hydroxyalkoxy, C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl or a (di-C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl, and
• - G ¹⁴ represents a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ alkyl, C ₁ - to C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ Alkoxy (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, C ₁ to C ₄ aminoalkyl or C ₁ to C ₄ cyanoalkyl,
• G ¹⁵ is hydrogen, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a phenyl radical or a benzyl radical, and
• - G ¹⁶ is hydrogen or a halogen atom.

The Substituents used in formula (Ent3) are analogous to the invention to the above statements Are defined.

preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (Ent3) are in particular p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol and its physiological acceptable Salts.

Very particularly preferred compounds of the formula (Ent3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -phenol and 4-amino 2- (diethyl-ami nomethyl) phenol.

Further For example, the developer component can be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.

Farther For example, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic Developer components, such as the pyridine, pyrimidine, Pyrazole, pyrazole pyrimidine derivatives and their physiologically tolerable Salt.

Preferred pyridine derivatives are in particular the compounds described in the patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196 such as 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2- (β-methoxyethyl) -amino-3 amino-6-methoxy-pyridine and 3,4-diamino-pyridine.

Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds described in the German patent DE 2 359 399 , the Japanese Patent Application JP 02019576 A2 or in the laid-open specification WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

Preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds described in the patents DE 3 843 892 . DE 4 133 957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, EP-740 931 and DE 195 43 988 such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3 dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl 3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-one 4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2-aminoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5 triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methylpyrazole.

wobei:

• – G¹⁷, G¹⁸, G¹⁹ und G²⁰ unabhängig voneinander stehen für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen Aryl-Rest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, der gegebenenfalls durch ein Acetyl-Ureid- oder einen Sulfonyl-Rest geschützt sein kann, einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkylamino-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einen Di-[(C₁- bis C₄)-alkyl]-(C₁- bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest, wobei die Dialkyl-Reste gegebenenfalls einen Kohlenstoffzyklus oder einen Heterozyklus mit 5 oder 6 Kettengliedern bilden, einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl- oder einen Di-(C₁- bis C₄)-[Hydroxyalkyl]-(C₁- bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest,
• – die X-Reste stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einen Aryl-Rest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkylrest, einen C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einen (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkylamino-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einen Di-[(C₁- bis C₄)alkyl]-(C₁- bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest, wobei die Dialkyl-Reste gegebenenfalls einen Kohlenstoffzyklus oder einen Heterozyklus mit 5 oder 6 Kettengliedern bilden, einen C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl- oder einen Di-(C₁- bis C₄-hydroxyalkyl)aminoalkylrest, einen Aminorest, einen C₁- bis C₄-Alkyl- oder Di-(C₁- bis C₄-hydroxyalkyl)aminorest, ein Halogenatom, eine Carboxylsäuregruppe oder eine Sulfonsäuregruppe,
• – i hat den Wert 0, 1, 2 oder 3,
• – p hat den Wert 0 oder 1,
• – q hat den Wert 0 oder 1 und
• – n hat den Wert 0 oder 1, mit der Maßgabe, dass
• – die Summe aus p + q ungleich 0 ist,
• – wenn p + q gleich 2 ist, n den Wert 0 hat, und die Gruppen NG¹⁷G¹⁸ und NG¹⁹G²⁰ belegen die Positionen (2,3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) oder (3,7);
• – wenn p + q gleich 1 ist, n den Wert 1 hat, und die Gruppen NG¹⁷G¹⁸ (oder NG¹⁹G²⁰) und die Gruppe OH belegen die Positionen (2,3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) oder (3,7); Die in Formel (Ent4) verwendeten Substituenten sind erfindungsgemäß analog zu den obigen Ausführungen definiert.

Preferred pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the derivatives of pyrarolo [1,5-a] opyrimidine of the following formula (Ent4) and its tautomeric forms, provided that a tautomeric equilibrium exists:

in which:

• - G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ , G ¹⁹ and G ²⁰ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -Polyhydroxyalkylrest a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) alkoxy- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -Aminoalkylrest, optionally protected by an acetyl-ureide or a sulfonyl radical may be a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkylamino (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl radical, a di - [(C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl] - (C ₁ to C ₄ ) aminoalkyl radical, wherein the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle with 5 or 6 chain members, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl- or a di- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) - [hydroxyalkyl] - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) aminoalkyl radical,
• - The X radicals independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkylamino- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl, a di - [(C ₁ - to C ₄ ) alkyl] - (C ₁ - bis C ₄ ) aminoalkyl radical, where the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle having 5 or 6 chain members, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl or a di- (C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl) aminoalkyl radical, an amino radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl or di- (C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl) amino radical, a halogen atom, a carboxylic acid group or a sulfonic acid group,
• - i has the value 0, 1, 2 or 3,
• - p has the value 0 or 1,
• - q has the value 0 or 1 and
• - n has the value 0 or 1, with the proviso that
• The sum of p + q is not equal to 0,
• If p + q equals 2, n has the value 0, and the groups NG ¹⁷ G ¹⁸ and NG ¹⁹ G ²⁰ occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);
• When p + q is 1, n is 1, and the groups NG ¹⁷ G ¹⁸ (or NG ¹⁹ G ²⁰ ) and the group OH occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7); The substituents used in formula (Ent4) are defined according to the invention analogously to the above statements.

When the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the above formula (Ent4) contains a hydroxy group at one of the 2, 5 or 7 positions of the ring system, there is a tautomeric equilibrium shown, for example, in the following scheme:

• – Pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-3,7-diamin;
• – 2,5-Dimethyl-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-3,7-diamin;
• – Pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-3,5-diamin;
• – 2,7-Dimethyl-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-3,5-diamin;
• – 3-Aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-7-ol;
• – 3-Aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-5-ol;
• – 2-(3-Aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-7-ylamino)-ethanol;
• – 2-(7-Aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-3-ylamino)-ethanol;
• – 2-[(3-Aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-7-yl)-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)amino]-ethanol;
• – 2-[(7-Aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-3-yl)-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)amino]-ethanol;
• – 5,6-Dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-3,7-diamin;
• – 2,6-Dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-3,7-diamin;
• – 3-Amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin;

sowie ihre physiologisch verträglichen Salze und ihre tautomeren Formen, wenn ein tautomeres Gleichgewicht vorhanden ist.Among the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (Ent4) may be mentioned in particular:

• - pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
• 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
• - pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;
• 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;
• 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol;
• 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol;
• 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol;
• - 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol;
• - 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol;
• - 2 - [(7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -ethanol;
• 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
• - 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
• 3-amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine;

and their physiologically acceptable salts and their tautomeric forms when tautomeric equilibrium is present.

The Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (Ent4) can be used as described in the literature by cyclization starting from a Aminopyrazole or produced from hydrazine.

When Coupler components are usually m-phenylenediamine derivatives, Naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives and heterocyclic compounds used.

• – m-Aminophenol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, N-Cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-Dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-Trifluoroacetylamino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-Amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-(Diethylamino)-phenol, N-Cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-Dihydroxy-5-(methylamino)-benzol, 3-Ethylamino-4-methylphenol und 2,4-Dichlor-3-aminophenol,
• – o-Aminophenol und dessen Derivate,
• – m-Diaminobenzol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 2,4-Diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1,3-Bis-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)-propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzol, 1,3-Bis-(2',4'-diaminophenyl)-propan, 2,6-Bis-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin und 1-Amino-3-bis-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzol,
• – o-Diaminobenzol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 3,4-Diaminobenzoesäure und 2,3-Diamino-1-methylbenzol,
• – Di- beziehungsweise Trihydroxybenzolderivate wie beispielsweise Resorcin, Resorcinmonomethylether, 2-Methylresorcin, 5-Methylresorcin, 2,5-Dimethylresorcin, 2-Chlorresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, Pyrogallol und 1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol,
• – Pyridinderivate wie beispielsweise 2,6-Dihydroxypyridin, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin, 2-Amino-5-chlor-3-hydroxypyridin, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methylpyridin, 2,6-Diaminopyridin, 2,3-Diamino-6-methoxypyridin und 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridin,
• – Naphthalinderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Naphthol, 2-Methyl-1-naphthol, 2-Hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-Hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1,6-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1,8-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin und 2,3-Dihydroxynaphthalin,
• – Morpholinderivate wie beispielsweise 6-Hydroxybenzomorpholin und 6-Amino-benzomorpholin,
• – Chinoxalinderivate wie beispielsweise 6-Methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin,
• – Pyrazolderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-on,
• – Indolderivate wie beispielsweise 4-Hydroxyindol, 6-Hydroxyindol und 7-Hydroxyindol,
• – Pyrimidinderivate, wie beispielsweise 4,6-Diaminopyrimidin, 4-Amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidin, 2,4-Diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidin, 2,4,6-Trihydroxypyrimidin, 2-Amino-4-methylpyrimidin, 2-Amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidin und 4,6-Dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidin, oder
• – Methylendioxybenzolderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Hydroxy-3,4-methylendioxybenzol, 1-Amino-3,4-methylendioxybenzol und 1-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-3,4-methylendioxybenzol

sowie deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze.According to preferred coupler components are

• - M-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl 3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro 3-aminophenol,
• O-aminophenol and its derivatives,
• - M-Diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino ) benzene, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [( 2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine and amino-3-bis- (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene,
• - o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diami no-1-methylbenzene,
• Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,
• Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3, 4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
• Naphthalene derivatives such as, for example, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,
• Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
• Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
• Pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
• Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
• Pyrimidine derivatives such as 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino 4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine, or
• - Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene

and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Particularly according to the invention preferred coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, Resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and the physiologically tolerable Salts of the aforementioned compounds.

The according to the invention, cosmetic Agents preferably contain the developer components in an amount from 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, respectively based on the total mean.

The according to the invention, cosmetic Means contain the coupler components preferably in an amount from 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, respectively based on the total mean.

• 1 Verbindungen, die eine reaktive Carbonylgruppe enthalten mit mindestens einer Verbindung der Komponente
• 2 Verbindungen, ausgewählt aus (a) CH-aciden Verbindungen, (b) Verbindungen mit primärer oder sekundärer Aminogruppe oder Hydroxygruppe, ausgewählt aus primären oder sekundären aromatischen Aminen, stickstoffhaltigen heterozyklischen Verbindungen und aromatischen Hydroxyverbindungen

enthalten.The composition of the invention can be used as color-modifying component in the form of the Oxofarbstoffvorprodukte at least one combination of at least one compound of the component

• 1 compounds containing a reactive carbonyl group with at least one compound of the component
• 2 compounds selected from (a) CH-acidic compounds, (b) compounds having primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group selected from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds

contain.

• a) Aminen und deren Derivate unter Bildung von Iminen oder Oximen als Kondensationsverbindung
• b) Alkoholen unter Bildung von Acetalen oder Ketalen als Kondensationsverbindung
• c) Wasser unter Bildung von Hydraten als Kondensationsverbindung von Aldehyden.

Compounds according to the invention having a reactive carbonyl group (also referred to below as reactive carbonyl compounds or component 1) have at least one carbonyl group as reactive group which reacts with the compounds of component 2 to form a chemical bond linking both components. Further, according to the invention, those compounds are also included as component 1 in which the reactive carbonyl group is derivatized or masked in such a way that the reactivity of the carbon atom of the derivatized or masked carbonyl group with respect to the component 2 is always present. These derivatives are preferably condensation compounds of reactive carbonyl compounds with

• a) amines and derivatives thereof to form imines or oximes as a condensation compound
• b) alcohols to form acetals or ketals as a condensation compound
• c) water to form hydrates as a condensation compound of aldehydes.

Component 1 is preferably selected from the group formed from acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropiophenone, 4-hydroxypropiophenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3-hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyaceto phenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxy acetophenone diethyl ketal, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxyacetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4-dimethylaminoacetophenone, 4-morpholinoacetophenone, 4-piperidinoacetophenone, 4-imidazolinoacetophenone, 2-hydroxy-5-bromo acetophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-nitroacetophenone, acetophenone-2-carboxylic acid, acetophenone-4-carboxylic acid, benzophenone, 4-hydroxybenzophenone, 2-aminobenzophenone, 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,4 '-Trihydroxybenzophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-1-acetonaphthone, 1-hydroxy-2-acetonaphthone, chromone, chromone-2-carboxylic acid, flavone, 3-hydroxyflavone, 3,5,7-trihydroxyflavone, 4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone, 5,6,7-trihydroxyflavone, quercetin, 1-indanone, 9-fluorenone, 3-hydroxyfluorenone, anthrone, 1,8-dihydroxyanthrone, vanillin, coniferylaldehyde, 2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 3-methox benzaldehyde, 4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 3-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,3-dimethoxy-benzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,6- dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,3-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4- Hydroxy-2,6-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 3,5-diethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,6- Diethoxy-4-hydroxy-benzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4- Ethoxy-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxy-3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,6-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 3, 5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,5- Trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,6-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,4- Dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2, 5,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-diethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-pyrrolidinobenzaldehyde, 4-morpholinobenzaldehyde, 2-morpholinobenzaldehyde, 4-piperidinobenzaldehyde, 2-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dimethoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-hyd roxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxy-cinnamaldehyde, 4- Dimethylaminozimtaldehyde, 2-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-diethylamino-cinnamaldehyde, 4-dibutylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-diphenylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4- (1-imidazolyl) -benzaldehyde, piperonal, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-1H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-8-hydroxy-1H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, N-ethylcarbazole-3-aldehyde, 2-formylmethylene-1,3,3-trimethylindoline (Fischer's aldehyde or tribasic aldehyde),
2-indolealdehyde, 3-indolealdehyde, 1-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 2-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 1-acetylindole-3-aldehyde, 3-acetylindole, 1-methyl-3-acetylindole, 2- (1 ', 3 ', 3'-trimethyl-2-indolinylidene) -acetaldehyde, 1-methylpyrrole-2-aldehyde, 1-methyl-2-acetylpyrrole, 4-pyridine aldehyde, 2-pyridine aldehyde, 3-pyridine aldehyde, 4-acetylpyridine, 2-acetylpyridine , 3-acetylpyridine, pyridoxal, quinoline-3-aldehyde, quinoline-4-aldehyde, antipyrin-4-aldehyde, furfural, 5-nitrofurfural, 2-thenoyl-trifluoro-acetone, chromon-3-aldehyde, 3- (5 'Nitro-2'-furyl) acrolein, 3- (2'-furyl) acrolein and imidazole-2-aldehyde, 1,3-diacetylbenzene, 1,4-diacetylbenzene, 1,3,5-triacetylbenzene, 2- Benzoyl-acetophenone, 2- (4'-methoxybenzoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-furoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-pyridoyl) -acetophenone and 2- (3'-pyridoyl) -acetophenone,
Benzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 2-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 4-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-dimethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzylideneacetone, 4-pyrrolidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-piperidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-morpholinobenzylideneacetone, 4-diethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3 Benzylidene-2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 2-Benzylidene-cyclohexanone, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) cyclohexanone, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) cyclohexanone, 2-benzylidene-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -1,3-cyclohexanedione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -1, 3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidene-5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxy-3 -methoxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidenecyclopentanone, 2 '- (4-hydroxybenzylidene) - cyclopentanone, 2- (4'-dimethyl aminobenzylidene) cyclopentanone, 5- (4-dimethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-diethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-methoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-piperidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5 - (4-morpholinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 6- (4-dimethylaminophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-diethylamino phenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-diene 2-one, 6- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-piperidinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-morpholinophenyl ) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 5- (4-dimethylamino-1-naphthyl) penta-3,5-dienal , 2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-methyl-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-hydroxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-5 -nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-fluoro-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-methoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-chloro-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-6-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-chloro-2-nitrobenzaldehyde , 4-chloro-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2,4-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2,6-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-methoxy-5-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4,5-dimethoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 6-nitropiperonal, 2-nitropiperonal , 5-nitrovanillin, 2,5-dinitrosalicylaldehyde, 5-bromo-3-nitrosalicylaldehyde, 3-nitro-4-formylbenzenesulfonic acid Re, 4-nitro-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 3-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 4-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 9-methyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 9-ethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 3-acetylcarbazole, 3,6-diacetyl-9- ethylcarbazole, 3-acetyl-9-methylcarbazole, 1,4-dimethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 1,4,9-trimethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 4-formyl-1-methylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-Formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1,2-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl 1,3-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 2-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1 methylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-formyl 1-ethylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1 benzylchinolinium, 8-formyl-1-benzyl-quinolinium, 5-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 6-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 7-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium and 8-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 5- Acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium , 7-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1 benzylchinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-allylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-allylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-allylquinolinium and 8-acetyl-1-allylquinolinium, 9-formyl-10-methylacridinium, 4- ( 2'-formylvinyl) -1-methylpyridinium, 1,3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formylphenyl) benzimidazolium, 1,3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formylphenyl) -imidazolium, 2- 4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-acetylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzoxazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'- furyl) -3-methylben zothiazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-furyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-thienyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (3'-formylphenyl) - 3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formyl-1-naphthyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 5-chloro-2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) - 3,5-dimethylbenzothiazolium salts, preferably with benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, methanesulfonate, perchlorate, sulfate, chloride, bromide, iodide, tetrachlorozincate, methylsulfate, trifluoromethanesulfonate or tetrafluoroborate as counterion, isatin, 1-methylisatin, 1-allyl isatin, 1-hydroxymethyl-isatin, 5-chloro-isatin, 5-methoxy-isatin, 5-nitro-isatin, 6-nitro-isatin, 5-sulfo-isatin, 5-carboxy-isatin, quinisatin, 1-methyl-quinisatin, and any Mixtures of the above compounds.

When CH-Acids are generally considered to be compounds which a hydrogen atom bonded to an aliphatic carbon atom carry, due to electron-withdrawing substituents a Activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond causes becomes. According to the invention, CH-acidic compounds also include enamines. by alkaline treatment of quaternized N-heterocycles with a conjugated to quaternary nitrogen CH-acid Alkyl group arise.

The CH-acidic compounds of component 2 are preferably selected from the group consisting of 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methylenindoline (Fischer's base), 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 2,3-dimethylnaphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methyl-naphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, Rhodanine, Rhodanine-3-acetic acid, 1,4-dimethylquinolinium iodide, 1,2-dimethylquinolinium iodide, barbituric acid, thiobarbituric acid, 1,3-dimethylthiobarbituric acid, 1,3-diethylthiobarbituric acid, 1,3-diethylbarbituric acid, oxindole, 3-indoxylacetate, 2-coumaranone, 5-hydroxy-2-coumaranone, 6-hydroxy-2-cumaranone, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-pyrazolin-5-one, indan-1,2-dione, indan-1,3-dione, Indan-1-one, benzoylacetonitrile, 3-dicyanomethylenedan-1-one, 2-amino-4-imino-1,3-thiazoline hydrochloride, 5,5-dimethylcyclohexane-1,3-dione, 2H-1,4-benzoxazin-4H-3-one, 3-ethyl-2-methyl-benzoxazolium iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzothiazolium iodide, 1-ethyl-4-methyl-quinolinium iodide, 1-ethyl-2-methylquinolinium iodide, 1,2,3-trimethylquinoxalinium iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzoxazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methyl-benzothiazolium-p-toluenesulfonate, 1-ethyl-4-methyl-quinolinium-p-toluenesulfonate, 1-ethyl-2-methyl-quinolinium-p-toluenesulfonate, and 1,2,3-trimethylquinoxaluminum p-toluenesulfonate.

in der

• • R⁷ für eine Hydroxy- oder eine Aminogruppe, die durch C_1-4-Alkyl-, C_1-4-Hydroxyalkyl-, C_1-4-Alkoxy- oder C_1-4-Alkoxy-C_1-4-alkylgruppen substituiert sein kann, steht,
• • R⁸, R⁹, R¹⁰, R¹¹ und R¹² unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Hydroxy- oder eine Aminogruppe, die durch C₁-C₄-Alkyl-, C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl, C₁-C₄-Alkoxy-, C₁-C₄-Aminoalkyl- oder C₁-C₄-Alkoxy-C₁-C₄-alkylgruppen substituiert sein kann, stehen, und
• • P für eine direkte Bindung, eine gesättigte oder ungesättigte, ggf. durch Hydroxygruppen substituierte Kohlenstoffkette mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, eine Carbonyl-, Sulfoxy-, Sulfonyl- oder Iminogruppe, ein Sauerstoff- oder Schwefelatom, oder eine Gruppe mit der Formel III -Q'-(CH₂-Q-CH₂-Q'')_o- (III)in der
• • Q eine direkte Bindung, eine CH₂- oder CHOH-Gruppe bedeutet,
• • Q' und Q'' unabhängig voneinander für ein Sauerstoffatom, eine NR¹³-Gruppe, worin R¹³ ein Wasserstoffatom, eine C_1-4-Alkyl- oder eine Hydroxy-C_1-4-alkylgruppe, wobei auch beide Gruppen zusammen mit dem Restmolekül einen 5-, 6- oder 7-Ring bilden können, bedeutet, die Gruppe O-(CH₂)_p-NH oder NH-(CH₂)_p'-O, worin p und p' 2 oder 3 sind, stehen und
• • o eine Zahl von 1 bis 4 bedeutet,

wie beispielsweise 4,4'-Diaminostilben und dessen Hydrochlorid, 4,4'-Diaminostilben-2,2'-disulfonsäure-mono- oder -di-Na-Salz, 4-Amino-4'-dimethylaminostilben und dessen Hydrochlorid, 4,4'-Diaminodiphenylmethan, 4,4'-Diaminodiphenylsulfid, 4,4'-Diaminodiphenylsulfoxid, 4,4'-Diaminodiphenylamin, 4,4'-Diaminodiphenylamin-2-sulfonsäure, 4,4'-Diaminobenzophenon, 4,4'-Diaminodiphenylether, 3,3',4,4'-Tetraaminodiphenyl, 3,3',4,4'-Tetraamino-benzophenon, 1,3-Bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-propan, 1,8-Bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctan, 1,3-Bis-(4-aminophenylamino)propan, 1,3-Bis-(4-aminophenylamino)-2-propanol, 1,3-Bis-[N-(4-aminophenyl)-2-hydroxyethylamino]-2-propanol, N,N-Bis-[2-(4-aminophenoxy)-ethyl]-methylamin, N-Phenyl-1,4-phenylendiamin und Bis-(5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl)-methan.Preferred primary or secondary aromatic amines of component 2 are selected from N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N-ethyl-p-phenylenedia min, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholinoaniline, 2-aminophenol, 3-aminophenol, 4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2- Hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, o-phenylenediamine, m-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-diaminotoluene, 2,5-diaminophenol, 2,5-diaminoanisole, 2,5, diaminophenethol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol , 2- (2,5-diaminophenyl) ethanol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyloxy) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 4-methylaminophenol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 2-methyl-5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) phenol, 3 -Amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-methyl-5-amino-4-chlorophenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 2- Diethylaminomethyl) -4-aminophenol, 4-amine o-1-hydroxy-2- (2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) benzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-methylbenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-6-methylbenzene, 2-amino-5- acetamidophenol, 1,3-dimethyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, N, N-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, N- Cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 5-amino-4-fluoro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-5-fluorotoluene, 2,4-diamino-5- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -toluene, 2,4-diamino 5-methylphenol, 3,5-diamino-2-methoxy-1-methylbenzene, 2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -anisole, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 1, 3-diamino-2,4-dimethoxybenzene, 3,5-diamino-2-methoxy-toluene, 2-aminobenzoic acid, 3-aminobenzoic acid, 4-aminobenzoic acid, 2-aminophenylacetic acid, 3-aminophenylacetic acid, 4-aminophenylacetic acid, 2,3- Diaminobenzoic acid, 2,4-diaminobenzoic acid, 2,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid 3,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 4-aminosalicylic acid, 5-aminosalicylic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 2-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 4-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxynaphthalene-1-sulfonic acid, 6-amino-7-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 7-amino-4- hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 4-amino-5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid, 3-amino-2-naphthoic acid, 3-aminophthalic acid, 5-aminoisophthalic acid, 1,3,5-triaminobenzene, 1,2,4- Triaminobenzene, 1,2,4,5-tetraaminobenzene, 2,4,5-triaminophenol, penta-aminobenzene, hexaaminobenzene, 2,4,6-triaminoresorcinol, 4,5-diaminobrcatechol, 4,6-diaminopyrogallol, 1- (2-hydroxy 5-aminobenzyl) -2-imidazolidinone, 4-amino-2 - ((4 - [(5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methyl] piperazinyl) methyl) phenol, 3,5-diamino-4-hydroxy-catechol, 1, 4-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, aromatic nitriles such as 2-amino-4-hydroxybenzonitrile, 4-amino-2-hydroxybenzonitrile, 4-aminobenzonitrile, 2,4-diaminobenzonitrile, nitro group-containing amino compounds such as 3-amino-6-methylamino-2-nitro-pyridine, picric acid, [8 - ((4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl) -azo] -7-hydroxy-naphth-2-yl] -trimethylammonium chloride, (8 - ((4-amino-3-nitrophenyl) -azo) -7-hydroxy -naphth-2-yl] -trimethylammonium chloride (Basic Brown 17), 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] - benzene, 1-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 5), 1-amino-2-nitro-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene (HC Red No. 7), 2-chloro-5-nitro-N-2-hydroxyethyl-1,4-phenylenediamine, 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitro-4-aminobenzene (HC Red No 3), 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-amino-2-nitrophenol, 6-nitro-o-toluidine, 1-amino-3-methyl-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet No. 1), 1-amino-2-nitro-4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -5-chlorobenzene (HC Red No. 10), 2- (4-amino-2 nitroanilino) benzoic acid, 6-nitro-2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2- (3-nitrophenylazo) -7-phenylazo-8-naphthol-3, 6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (Acid blue No. 29), 1-amino-2- (2-hydroxy-4-nitrophenylazo) -8-naphthol-3, 6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (palatinchrome green), 1-amino-2- (3-chloro-2-hydroxy-5-nitrophenylazo) -8-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (gallium), 4-amino-4 'nitrostilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid disodium salt, 2,4-diamino-3 ', 5'-dinitro-2'-hydroxy-5-methylazobenzene (Mordant brown 4), 4'-amino-4-nitrodiphenylamine-2 sulfonic acid, 4'-amino-3'-nitrobenzophenone-2-carboxylic acid, 1-amino-4-nitro-2- (2-nitrobenzylideneamino) -benzene, 2- [2- (diethylamino) ethylamino] -5-nitroaniline, 3-Amino-4-hydroxy-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-3'-nitrobiphenyl, 3-amino-4-nitro-acenaphthene, 2-amino-1-nitronaphthalene, 5-amino-6-nitrobenzo-1,3 -dioxole, anilines, in particular nitro-group-containing anilines, such as 4-nitroaniline, 2-nitroaniline, 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-methyl-6- nitrobenzene, 4-nitro-1,3-phenylenediamine, 2-nitro-4-amino-1- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -benzene, 2-nitro-1-amino-4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino ] -benzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 1-amino-5-chloro -4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, aromatic anilines or phenols with a further aromatic radical, as shown in the formula II

in the

• R ^{7 represents} a hydroxy or an amino group represented by C _1-4 -alkyl, C _1-4 -hydroxyalkyl, C _1-4 -alkoxy or C _1-4 -alkoxy-C _1-4 -alkyl groups may be substituted,
• • R ^8, R ^9, R ^10, R ¹¹ and R ¹² independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy or an amino group by C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl, C ₁ - C ₄ alkoxy, C ₁ -C ₄ aminoalkyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups may be substituted, and
• • P is a direct bond, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by hydroxy groups carbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a carbonyl, sulfoxy, sulfonyl or imino group, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group of formula III -Q '- (CH ₂ -Q-CH ₂ -Q'') _o - (III) in the
• Q signifies a direct bond, a CH ₂ or CHOH group,
• • Q 'and Q''independently represent an oxygen atom, an NR ¹³ group, wherein R ^{13 represents} a hydrogen atom, a C _1-4 alkyl or a hydroxy C _1-4 alkyl group, both of which together with represents a 5-, 6- or 7-membered ring for the remainder of the molecule, the group O- (CH ₂ ) _p -NH or NH- (CH ₂ ) _{p '} -O, where p and p' are 2 or 3, stand and
• O is a number from 1 to 4,

such as 4,4'-diaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4,4'-diaminostilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid mono- or di-Na salt, 4-amino-4'-dimethylaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4, 4'-diaminodiphenylmethane, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfoxide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4,4'-diaminobenzophenone, 4,4'-diaminodiphenyl ether , 3,3 ', 4,4'-tetraaminodiphenyl, 3,3', 4,4'-tetraamino-benzophenone, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1,8-bis ( 2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, 1,3-bis (4-aminophenylamino) propane, 1,3-bis (4-aminophenylamino) -2-propanol, 1,3-bis [N - (4-aminophenyl) -2-hydroxyethylamino] -2-propanol, N, N-bis [2- (4-aminophenoxy) ethyl] methylamine, N-phenyl-1,4-phenylenediamine and bis (5 amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane.

The the aforementioned compounds both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable Salts, in particular as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid, can be used.

suitable nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds are e.g. 2-aminopyridine, 3-aminopyridine, 4-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (aminoethylamino) -5-aminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-pyridine, 2-dimethylamino-5-amino-pyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-diamino-pyridine, 2,4,5-triamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, N- [2- (2,4-diaminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N- (5-amino-2-pyridyl) -amine, N- [2- (4-aminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N- (5-amino-2-pyridyl) -amine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-methylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-diaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diaminopyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methoxy-6-methylpyrimidine, 3,5-diaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1,2,4-triazole, 3-aminopyrazole, 3-amino-5-hydroxypyrazole, 1-phenyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 4-amino-2,3-dimethyl-1-phenyl-3-pyrazolin-5-one (4-aminoantipyrine), 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2-aminoquinoline, 3-aminoquinoline, 8-aminoquinoline, 4-aminoquinaldine, 2-aminonicotinic acid, 6-aminonicotinic acid, 5-aminoisoquinoline, 5-aminoindazole, 6-aminoindazole, 5-aminobenzimidazole, 7-aminobenzimidazole, 5-aminobenzothiazole, 7-aminobenzothiazole, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholino-aniline and indole and indoline derivatives, such as 4-aminoindole, 5-aminoindole, 6-aminoindole, 7-aminoindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 4-hydroxyindoline. Furthermore, as heterocyclic compounds according to the invention in DE-U1-299 08 573 disclosed hydroxypyrimidines are used. The aforementioned compounds can both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable Salts, e.g. used as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid become.

suitable Aromatic hydroxy compounds are e.g. 2-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 5-methyl, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, catechol, Hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucinol, hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-methoxyphenol, 3-methoxyphenol, 4-methoxyphenol, 3-dimethylaminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-phenylacetic acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 6-dimethylamino-4-hydroxy-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid and 3,6-dihydroxy-2,7-naphthalenesulfonic acid.

The Compounds of component 1 and the compounds of the component 2 are preferably in the cosmetic products in each case Amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, in particular from 1 to 40 mmol, based to 100 g of the entire Nuanciermittels used. The molar ratio of the compound of component 1 and the compound of the component 2 may range from 0.5 to 2.0, preferably equimolar Quantities are used. The ready-to-use agent is added separate storage of components 1 and 2 immediately before Application made by mixing.

When Precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferred as the oxidation dye precursor Of the developer type such indoles and indolines used, at least a hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring, exhibit. These groups can carry further substituents, e.g. in the form of etherification or Esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. In a second preferred embodiment, the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.

in der unabhängig voneinander

• – R¹ steht für Wasserstoff, eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe oder eine C₁-C₄-Hydroxy-alkylgruppe,
• – R² steht für Wasserstoff oder eine -COOH-Gruppe, wobei die -COOH-Gruppe auch als Salz mit einem physiologisch verträglichen Kation vorliegen kann,
• – R³ steht für Wasserstoff oder eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe,
• – R⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CO-R⁶, in der R⁶ steht für eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, und
• – R⁵ steht für eine der unter R⁴ genannten Gruppen,

sowie physiologisch verträgliche Salze dieser Verbindungen mit einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure.Particularly suitable precursors of natural-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (IVa),

in the independently of each other

• R ¹ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group or a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxy-alkyl group,
• R ² is hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
• R ³ is hydrogen or a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group,
• R ⁴ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group or a group -CO-R ⁶ , in which R ⁶ is a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group, and
• R ⁵ is one of the groups mentioned under R ⁴ ,

and physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

Especially preferred derivatives of indoline are the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid and 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline.

Especially noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

in der unabhängig voneinander

• – R¹ steht für Wasserstoff, eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe oder eine C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkylgruppe,
• – R² steht für Wasserstoff oder eine -COOH-Gruppe, wobei die -COOH-Gruppe auch als Salz mit einem physiologisch verträglichen Kation vorliegen kann,
• – R³ steht für Wasserstoff oder eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe,
• – R⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe oder eine Gruppe -CO-R⁶, in der R⁶ steht für eine C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe, und
• – R⁵ steht für eine der unter R⁴ genannten Gruppen,
• – sowie physiologisch verträgliche Salze dieser Verbindungen mit einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure.

Also suitable as precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of the 5,6-dihydroxyindole of the formula (IVb),

in the independently of each other

• R ¹ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group or a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl group,
• R ² is hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
• R ³ is hydrogen or a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group,
• - R ⁴ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a group -CO-R ⁶ , in which R ⁶ is a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, and
• R ⁵ is one of the groups mentioned under R ⁴ ,
• - As well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

Especially preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Within of this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

preferred direct dyes, which are used in cosmetics as color-modifying Component are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, Azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive Dyes are those under international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

• (a) kationische Triphenylmethanfarbstoffe, wie beispielsweise Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatischen Systeme, die mit einer quaternären Stickstoffgruppe substituiert sind, wie beispielsweise Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 und Basic Brown 17, sowie
• (c) direktziehende Farbstoffe, die einen Heterozyklus enthalten, der mindestens ein quaternäres Stickstoffatom aufweist, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-A2-998 908, auf die an dieser Stelle explizit Bezug genommen wird, in den Ansprüchen 6 bis 11 genannt werden.

Further, the cosmetic agents may contain a cationic substantive dye. Particularly preferred are

• (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
• (c) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as mentioned, for example, in EP-A2-998 908, which is incorporated herein by reference, in claims 6 to 11.

Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:

The Compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are also available under the terms Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive Dyes of group (c).

The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

The Cosmetic agents contain the substantive dyes preferred in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the ready-to-use Medium.

Farther can the cosmetic according to the invention Medium also occurring in nature dyes such as, for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, Sedre and alkano root are included.

It it is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes in each case uniform compounds represent. Rather, you can in the cosmetic products, due to the manufacturing process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts contain other components be, as far as this is not the dyeing result adversely affect or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.

Regarding further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used expressly to the relevant manuals known to those skilled in the art, e.g. Kh. Schrader, Basics and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

The actual oxidative colorants becomes with separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent prepared by mixing immediately before use. In a preferred embodiment Therefore, the cosmetic product before application of a Composition containing in a cosmetic carrier at least a color-changing Component, and another composition containing in one cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent, mixed.

at an application of oxidants becomes the ready to use Preparation expediently immediately before use by mixing a composition, containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-changing ones Components, manufactured. The resulting ready-to-use hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10.

For a color change by brightening or bleaching the hair is preferred in the cosmetic according to the invention In addition to the oxidizing agents additionally used at least one bleach booster.

Be bleach preferably in Blondiermitteln to increase the Blondierwirkung the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide used.

As bleach amplifiers, it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid. Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups. Prefers are repeatedly acylated alkylenediamines, in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-acylimides , in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy-2 , 5-dihydrofuran.

When bleach booster can preferred according to the invention Carbonate salts, or bicarbonate salts are used. These are preferably selected from the group of ammonium, alkali (especially sodium and Potassium), as well as alkaline earth (especially calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Particularly preferred carbonate, or

bicarbonate salts are ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, Disodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, dipotassium carbonate and Calcium carbonate. These particularly preferred salts can be used alone or used in their mixtures of at least two representatives as bleaching amplifiers become.

in der R für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, geradkettigen, verzweigten, oder cyclischen, substituierten oder unsubstituierten Kohlenwasserstoffrest, oder eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Arylgruppe bzw. einen substituierten oder unsubstituierten Heterocyclus steht.As bleach booster of the type of monoalkyl carbonates and their derivatives, at least one carbonic acid monoester and / or at least one carbonic acid monoamide are preferably used in the process according to the invention. Preferred carbonic acid monoesters are the carbonic acid monoesters of the formula (V),

in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

In formula (V), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably, R is a C _1-6 alkyl group. Examples of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized that the Rest R in formula (V) selected is methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl as well as hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

in der R für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, geradkettigen, verzweigten, oder cyclischen, substituierten oder unsubstituierten Kohlenwasserstoffrest, oder eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Arylgruppe bzw. einen substituierten oder unsubstituierten Heterocyclus steht.As an alternative to the carbonic acid monoester or in conjunction with it, carbonic acid monoamides can be used as bleach boosters in the anhydrous compositions. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention to use at least one carbonic acid monoamide of the formula (VI),

in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

In formula (VI), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably, R is a C _1-6 alkyl group. Examples of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.

Bleach amplifiers of the formula (VI) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (VI) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl . tert-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

The Acid H atom of carbonic acid monoester or monoamides may also be present in neutralized form, i. it can According to the invention also salts of carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic acid monoamides be used. According to the invention, carbonic acid monoesters or the carbonic acid monoamides are present here preferably, in completely or partially neutralized form, preferably in the form of the alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal or aluminum salt and in particular in the form of its sodium salt.

in der die Reste R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, geradkettigen, verzweigten, oder cyclischen, substituierten oder unsubstituierten Kohlenwasserstoffrest oder für eine Trialkylsilylgruppe, vorzugsweise eine Trimethylsilylgruppe oder für eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Arylgruppe bzw. einen substituierten oder unsubstituierten Heterocyclus oder für ein Halogen, eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Hydroxy-, Oxo-, Aminogruppen stehen und der Rest R⁴ für eine chemische Bindung zum Si-Atom oder zu einem der Reste R¹, R² oder R³, ein Wasserstoffatom, einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, geradkettigen, verzweigten, oder cyclischen, substituierten oder unsubstituierten Kohlenwasserstoffrest oder für eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Silyl- oder Aluminylgruppe oder für eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Arylgruppe bzw. einen substituierten oder unsubstituierten Heterocyclus steht.As bleach boosters of the type of silyl carbonates and derivatives thereof, at least one silyl carbonate and / or at least one silyl carbamate are preferably incorporated into the compositions according to the invention. Preference is given to using silyl carbonates of the formula (VII)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radical R ^{4 is} a chemical bond to the Si atom or one of the radicals R ¹ , R ² or R ³ , is a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted silyl or alumino group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

Preferred radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in the abovementioned formula (VII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals. Among these, the alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferred anhydrous compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in formula (VII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

Preferred radicals R ⁴ in the abovementioned formula (VII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.

wobei die Reste R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, geradkettigen, verzweigten, oder cyclischen, substituierten oder unsubstituierten Kohlenwasserstoffrest oder für eine Trialkylsilylgruppe, vorzugsweise eine Trimethylsilylgruppe oder für eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Arylgruppe bzw. einen substituierten oder unsubstituierten Heterocyclus oder für ein Halogen, eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Hydroxy-, Oxo-, Aminogruppen stehen und die Rest R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für eine chemische Bindung zum Si-Atom oder zu einem der Reste R¹, R² oder R³, ein Wasserstoffatom, einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, geradkettigen, verzweigten, oder cyclischen, substituierten oder unsubstituierten Kohlenwasserstoffrest oder für eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Silyl- oder Aluminylgruppe oder für eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Arylgruppe bzw. einen substituierten oder unsubstituierten Heterocyclus stehen.As bleach booster, at least one silyl carbamate of the formula (VIII) may be present in the anhydrous composition according to the invention,

where the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or for a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or for a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radicals R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another for a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R ¹ , R ² or R ³ , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted silyl or alumino group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted tuierten heterocycle stand.

Preferred radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals. Among them, the alkyl groups having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl groups are preferred, so that compositions preferably used are characterized in that the groups R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in formula (VIII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, fert-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

Preferred radicals R ⁴ and R ⁵ in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.

When additional bleach booster can in the compositions of the invention preferably at least one compound selected from acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and ortho-phthalic acid, be included.

Bleaching amplifiers are preferably peroxo compounds. Among the bleaching according to the invention Peroxo compounds are not subject to addition products of hydrogen peroxide to other components and not even hydrogen peroxide itself. The choice of peroxo compounds is also subject no restrictions. Preferred peroxo compounds are peroxydisulfate salts, persulfate salts, (in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, Ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxide phosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide). Under these Peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination, are According to the invention, the inorganic Compounds preferred. Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate.

The bleach booster are in the inventive, cosmetic Means preferably in amounts of 5-30 wt .-%, in particular in Quantities of 8-20 Wt .-%, contained.

The contain cosmetic agent of the invention when used as a bleaching agent act as a preferred alkalizing agent at least one Connection, selected from ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, hydroxycarbonates, metasilicates and carbamides, and alkali phosphates.

The in the method according to the invention cosmetic products used can continue all for such Preparations known active ingredients, additives and adjuvants include: The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant carrier has been used.

In many cases the agents contain at least one surfactant, in principle both anionic as well as zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases it has but proved to be advantageous, the surfactants from anionic, select zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.

• – lineare Fettsäuren mit 10 bis 22 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 10 bis 22 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 12 bis 18 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 12 bis 18 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 18 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-SO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – anionische Alkyloligoglykoside bzw. anionische Alkenyloligoglykosid-Derivate, ausgewählt aus Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyl-Oligoglykosidcarboxylaten, -sulfaten, -phosphaten und/oder -isethionaten, die sich von Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykosiden der allgemeinen Formel (IX) ableiten, R-O-(G)_p (IX)mit der Bedeutung R C_6-22-Alkyl oder C_6-22-Alkenyl, G Glykosideinheit, die sich von einem Zucker mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen ableitet, p Zahl von 1 bis 10, insbesondere das Laurylglucosidcarboxylat, wie es als Plantapon^® LGC von Cognis Deutschland erhältlich ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen.

Suitable anionic surfactants in the cosmetic compositions are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 or 3 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Linear alkanesulfonates having 12 to 18 C atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 12 to 18 C atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -SO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 10 to 18 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Anionic alkyl oligoglycosides or anionic alkenyl oligoglycoside derivatives selected from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of general formula (IX), RO- (G) _p (IX) with the meaning of RC _6-22 alkyl or C _6-22 alkenyl, G glycoside unit which is derived from a sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, p number from 1 to 10, in particular the Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as as Plantapon ^® LGC of Cognis Germany is available,
• Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
• Sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,
• - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid ,

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga sowie
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl.

Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example

• Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, and
• - Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R ¹ O- (Z) _X. These connections are identified by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R ¹ contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R ¹ . Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C_{1 2}- und C_{1 4}-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C_{1 6}-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C_{1 2}- bis C_{1 6}-Alkylgruppen besteht.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R ¹

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially C _{1 2} and C _{1 4} -alkyl groups,
• - essentially of C ₈ - to C _{1 6} alkyl, or
• - Consists essentially of C _{1 2} - to C _{1 6} alkyl groups.

When Sugar component Z can any mono- or oligosaccharides are used. Usually Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, Galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, Gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The usable according to the invention Alkyl polyglycosides contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x 1.1 to 1.4.

The Alkyl glycosides can in addition to their surfactant effect also serve the fixation of fragrance components to improve on the hair. The person skilled in the art will therefore be that one over the effect of the perfume oil beyond the duration of the hair treatment the hair desired is, preferably to this class of substance as a further ingredient the preparations according to the invention To fall back on.

Also The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can be used according to the invention become. These homologs can an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Also particularly suitable as co-surfactants are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ to C _{1 8} alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12-18 acylsarcosine.

According to the invention as cationic surfactants, especially those of the quaternary ammonium type, the esterquats and amidoamines used.

preferred quaternary Ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and Bromides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants are preferred 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare® ^® VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, and Dehyquart® ^© F-75 and Dehyquart® ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

Further usable according to the invention cationic surfactants are the quaternized protein hydrolysates represents.

Also suitable in the present invention are cationic silicone oils such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (Manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).

An example of a suitable cationic surfactant quaternary sugar derivative is the commercially available product Glucquat ^® 100 is, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride".

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material dependent alkyl chain lengths receives.

at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution are understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are used in the Reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, Alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts receives. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example Hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The agents according to the invention can additionally contain at least one silicone. The silicones, when in the agents according to the invention are present, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use Means, included.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen; b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen; c) Thiolgruppen; d) Carboxylatgruppen; e) hydroxylierten Gruppen; f) alkoxylierten Gruppen; g) Acyloxyalkylgruppen; h) amphoteren Gruppen; i) Bisulfitgruppen; j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; k) Carboxygruppen; l) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit nicht silikonhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silikon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht silikonhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silikon enthält, wie beispielsweise das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone vertriebene Handelsprodukt Abil B 8832 der Firma Degussa;
• (vi) oder deren Gemischen.

More preferably, the silicones are selected from at least one member of the list formed from:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) _{n type} with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-1) (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-1), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain a silicone of the above formula (Si-1). These silicones are referred to as dimethicones according to the INCI nomenclature. It is in the context of the present invention as the silicone of the formula (Si-1), preferably the compounds:
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₁ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₈ -O-Si (CN ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred.

Of course you can too Mixtures of the above Silicones in the preferred compositions of the invention be included.

Preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities of from 0.2 to 2 mm ² s ^-1 at 20 ° C., silicones having viscosities of from 0.5 to 1 mm ² s ^{-1 being} particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may be represented, for example, by the formula (Si-2) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} ) _x (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} ] _y M (Si-2)

Be described, taking in the above formula
R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms,
Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, in which
R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;
a is in the range of about 0 to about 2,
b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
a + b is less than or equal to 3, and
c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and
M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.

Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R in formula (Si-2) include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) -CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CN ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} units in formula (Si-2) is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula (Si-2) are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.

Preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3) R ' _a G _3-a -Si (OSiG ₂ ) _n - (OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a R ' _a (Si-3), where:
G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ( CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C ( CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
b stands for a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
R 'is a monovalent radical selected from
-QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂
-QN (R '') ₂
-QN ⁺ (R '') ₃ A ^-
-QN ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^-
-QN ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^-
-QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- ,
wherein each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -,
R '' is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C ( CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Cationic silicone oils, such as those commercially available, are suitable according to the invention Dow Corning 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5-7113 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80)..

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are for example under the name Q2-7224 (Manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone) available.

enthalten, worin
R für -OH, eine (gegebenenfalls ethoxylierte und/oder propoxylierte) (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht,
R' für -OH, eine (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe und
m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

contain, in which
R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,
R 'is -OH, a (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and
m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are labeled according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized amodimethicones, such as bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product: DC 8500 available from Dow Corning), Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).

Independently of, which amino-functional silicones are used are cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological preparations which are an amino-functional Silicone contain its amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milli equivalents Amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.

According to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations are characterized that, based on their weight, 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% amino-functional silicone (s) included.

enthalten, in der x für eine Zahl von 0 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 0 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 0 bis 7 und insbesondere 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 oder 6, steht.The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

The silicones described above have a backbone consisting of -Si-O-Si units is constructed. Of course can these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are by chain extension reactions accessible and preferably come in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions for use.

The silicone-in-water emulsions which can be used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes, as described, for example, in US Pat US 5,998,537 and EP 0 874 017 A1 are disclosed.

In summary For example, this method of preparation comprises the emulsifying mixture of Components, one of which contains at least one polysiloxane whose other at least one organosilicone material containing the polysiloxane in a chain extension reaction reacting, wherein at least one metal ion-containing catalyst for the Chain extension reaction, at least one surfactant and water are present.

Chain extension reactions with polysiloxanes are known and may include, for example, the hydrosilylation reaction in which an Si-H group having an aliphatically unsaturated group in the presence of a platinum / rhodium catalyst to form polysiloxanes having some Si (C) _p Si bonds (p = 1-6), the polysiloxanes also being referred to as polysiloxanes-polysilalkylenes copolymers.

The Chain extension reaction can also be the reaction of an Si-OH group (for example, a hydroxy-terminated Polysiloxane) having an alkoxy group (for example, alkoxysilanes, Silicates or alkoxysiloxanes) in the presence of a metal-containing Catalyst to form polysiloxanes include.

The polysiloxanes used in the chain extension reaction comprise a substantially linear polymer of the following structure: R-Si (R ₂ ) - [- O-Si (R ₂ ) -] _n -O-SiR ₃

In this structure, each R independently represents a hydrocarbon radical having up to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as an alkyl group (for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl), an aryl group (for example, phenyl), or group required for the chain extension reaction ("reactive group", for example, Si-bonded H atoms, aliphatically unsaturated groups such as vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, hydroxy, alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy or propoxy, alkoxy-alkoxy, acetoxy, amino, etc.), with the proviso that on average one to two reactive groups are present per polymer, n is a positive number> 1. Preferably, a plurality of the reactive groups, more preferably> 90%, and especially> 98% of the reactive groups, at the terminal Si -Atomen bound in siloxane. Preferably, n is numbers describing polysiloxanes having viscosities between 1 and 1,000,000 mm ² / s, more preferably viscosities between 1,000 and 100,000 mm ² / s.

The Polysiloxanes can branched to a low degree (for example <2 mol% of the siloxane units), but the polymers are substantially linear, more preferred Completely linear. In addition, you can the substituents R in turn be substituted, for example with N-containing groups (for example amino groups), epoxy groups, S-containing groups, Si-containing groups, O-containing groups, etc. Preferably At least 80% of the radicals R are alkyl radicals, particularly preferred Methyl groups.

The organosilicone material that reacts with the polysiloxane in the chain extension reaction may be either a second polysiloxane or a molecule that acts as a chain extender. When the organosilicone material is a polysiloxane, it has the above-mentioned general structure. In these cases, a polysiloxane in the reaction has (at least) one reactive group, and a second polysiloxane has (min at least) a second reactive group that reacts with the first one.

If the organosilicone material comprises a chain extender agent this may be a material such as a silane, a siloxane (For example, disiloxanes or trisiloxane) or a silazane. So For example, a composition comprising a polysiloxane according to the above comprises at least one Si-OH group, chain-extended be prepared by reacting with an alkoxysilane (for example, a dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane) in the presence of tin or titanium containing Catalysts is reacted.

The metal-containing catalysts in the chain extension reaction are usually specific for a particular reaction. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, metals such as platinum, rhodium, tin, titanium, copper, lead, etc. In a preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane having at least one aliphatically unsaturated group, preferably an end group, is reacted with an organosilicone material Presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst which is a siloxane or polysiloxane having at least one (preferably terminal) Si-H group. The polysiloxane has at least one aliphatically unsaturated group and satisfies the general formula given above in which R and n are as defined above, with an average of between 1 and 2 groups R having one aliphatically unsaturated group per polymer. Representative aliphatic unsaturated groups are, for example, vinyl, allyl, hexenyl and cyclohexenyl or a group R ² CH = CHR ³ , in which R ^{2 is} a divalent aliphatic silicon-bonded chain and R ^{3 is} a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group. The organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group preferably has the above-mentioned structure, wherein R and n are as defined above and wherein, on average, between 1 and 2 groups R is hydrogen and n is 0 or a positive integer.

This Material may be a polymer or a low molecular weight material such as a siloxane (for example, a disiloxane or a trisiloxane).

The Polysiloxane with at least one aliphatic unsaturated Group and the organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group react in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst. Such Catalysts are known in the art and include For example, platinum and rhodium-containing materials. The Catalysts can take any known form, for example on support materials (such as silica gel or activated carbon) applied platinum or rhodium or other suitable compounds such as platinum chloride, Salts of platinum or chloroplatinic acids. One because of the good dispersibility in organosilicon systems and the slight color change preferred catalyst is chloroplatinic acid either as commercial available Hexahydrate or in anhydrous form.

at Another preferred chain extension reaction is a polysiloxane with at least one Si-OH group, preferably an end group, reacted with an organosilicone material which is at least has an alkoxy group, preferably a siloxane having at least a Si-OR group or an alkoxysilane having at least two alkoxy groups. In this case, the catalyst again is a metal-containing catalyst used.

For the reaction an Si-OH group with an Si-OR group, many known in the literature exist Catalysts, for example organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, Titanates or titanium chelates or complexes. Examples include tin octoate, Dibutyltin dilaurate, dibutyltin diacetate, dimethyl tin dineodecanoate, Dibutyltin dimethoxide, isobutyltin triceroate, dimethyltin dibutyrate, dimethyltin dineodecanoate, triethyltin tartrate, Tin oleate, tin naphthenate, tin butyrate, tin acetate, tin benzoate, Tin sebacate, tin succinate, tetrabutyl titanate, tetraisopropyl titanate, Tetraphenyl titanate, tetraoctadecyl titanate, titanium naphthanate, ethyl triethanolamine titanate, Titani diisopropyl diethyl acetoacetate, titanium diisopropoxy diacetyl acetonate and titanium tetra-alkoxides in which the alkoxide is butoxy or propoxy is.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5) R ₃ Si [O-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-5), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, stand , and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stands.

With The silicones are preferably water-soluble. According to the invention preferred Means of the embodiment with a silicone are characterized in that the silicone is water-soluble.

Appropriate hydrophilic silicones are, for example, from the compounds of Formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7) is selected. Especially preferred water-soluble Silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which is preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated are.

worin

• – der Rest R steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, eine Alkoxygruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen oder eine Hydroxylgruppe,
• – die Reste R' und R'' bedeuten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen,
• – x steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100, bevorzugt von 20 bis 30,
• – y steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20, bevorzugt von 2 bis 10 und
• – a und b stehen für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 50, bevorzugt von 10 bis 30.

Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

wherein

• The radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group,
• The radicals R 'and R "represent alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms,
• X is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30,
• Y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10 and
• A and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.

links which fall under the above formulas will be in the following Patent Applications, which are incorporated by reference, discloses: US-A-4,122,029; US-A-4,265,878; US-A-4,421,769 and GB-A-2,066,659.

Especially Preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example commercially available under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING (Dow) distributed products.

Particularly according to the invention preferred dimethicone copolyols are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193 (Dow).

• (i) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Silikon,
• (ii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein aminiertes Silikon,
• (iii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-1),
• (iv) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-2),
• (v) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-3),
• (vi) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-4),
• (vii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-5),
• (viii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-6),
• (ix) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-7)
• (x) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Silikon,
• (xi) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein aminiertes Silikon,
• (xii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-1),
• (xiii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-2),
• (xiv) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-3),
• (xv) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-4),
• (xvi) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-5),
• (xvii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-6),
• (xviii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-7),
• (xix) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Silikon,
• (xx) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein aminiertes Silikon,
• (xxi) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-1),
• (xxii) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-2),
• (xxiii) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-3),
• (xiv) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-4),
• (xxv) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-5),
• (xxvi) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-6),
• (xxvii) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-7).

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) cream, additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xxvii) in a cosmetic carrier:

• (i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone,
• (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one aminated silicone,
• (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-1),
• (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-2),
• (v) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-3),
• (vi) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4),
• (vii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5),
• (viii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-6),
• (ix) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-7)
• (x) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silicone,
• (xi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one aminated silicone,
• (xii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-1),
• (xiii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-2),
• (xiv) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-3),
• (xv) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4),
• (xvi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5),
• (xvii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-6),
• (xviii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-7),
• (xix) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone,
• (xx) at least one bleach booster and at least one aminated silicone,
• (xxi) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-1),
• (xxii) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-2),
• (xxiii) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-3),
• (xiv) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4),
• (xxv) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5),
• (xxvi) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-6),
• (xxvii) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of formula (Si-7).

In addition, the agents according to the invention contain at least one protein hydrolyzate. The protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) can be obtained.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates be used both of plant and animal origin.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks keratin DEC ^® (Vincience) Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co) distributed Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda).

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, for example soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids obtained otherwise, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, may also be used in their place. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Prefers are the protein hydrolysates in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.

• (i) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Proteinhydrolysat,
• (ii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Weizenproteinhydrolysat,
• (iii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Seidenproteinhydrolysat,
• (iv) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Kollagenproteinhydrolysat,
• (v) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Proteinhydrolysat,
• (vi) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Weizenproteinhydrolysat,
• (vii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Seidenproteinhydrolysat,
• (viii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Kollagenproteinhydrolysat,
• (ix) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Proteinhydrolysat,
• (x) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Weizenproteinhydrolysat,
• (xi) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Seidenproteinhydrolysat,
• (xii) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Kollagenproteinhydrolysat.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) cream, additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii) in a cosmetic carrier:

• (i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one protein hydrolyzate,
• (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate,
• (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silk protein hydrolyzate,
• (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one collagen protein hydrolyzate,
• (v) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one protein hydrolyzate,
• (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate,
• (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silk protein hydrolyzate,
• (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one collagen protein hydrolyzate,
• (ix) at least one bleach booster and at least one protein hydrolyzate,
• (x) at least one bleach booster and at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate,
• (xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one silk protein hydrolyzate,
• (xii) at least one bleach enhancer and at least one collagen protein hydrolyzate.

In a further embodiment contain the agents of the invention additionally at least one cationic and / or at least one amphoteric polymer.

in der R¹⁸ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R¹⁹, R²⁰ und R²¹ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C_1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (III) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R¹⁸ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R¹⁹, R²⁰ und R²¹ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2.

Cationic polymers are polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the agent These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups In particular those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C _1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain built up from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proved to be particularly suitable Homopolymers of the general formula (P1)

wherein R ^{18 is} -H or -CH ₃ , R ¹⁹ , R ²⁰ and R ^{21 are} independently selected from C _1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4 , n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (III) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ¹⁸ is a methyl group
• - R ¹⁹ , R ²⁰ and R ²¹ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

One particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. The crosslinking can, if desired with the help of multiple olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example Divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallylether, Polyallylpolyglycerylether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred one Crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (III) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – Polysiloxane mit quaternären Gruppen, wie beispielsweise die im Handel erhältlichen Produkte Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon), Dow Corning^® 929 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxyl-amino-modifiziertes Silicon, das auch als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abil^®-Quat 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternäre Polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80),
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden.
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,

sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen

• – Polyquaternium 2 (z.B. Mirapol^® A-15 der Firma Rhodia),
• – Polyquaternium 17,
• – Polyquaternium 18 und
• – Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• Quaternary group polysiloxanes, such as the commercially available Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow ^Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers, such as those under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552 are offered.
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

as well as those under the designations

• - Polyquaternium 2 (for example Mirapol ^® A-15 from Rhodia),
• - Polyquaternium 17,
• - Polyquaternium 18 and
• Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Likewise, as cationic polymers can be used under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product eg Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Other cationic polymers of the present invention, the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers are usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and hence cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred, such as for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially. chitosans are deacetylated, in different degrees of deacetylation and varying degrees of degradation (molecular weights) are commercially available. Their preparation is for example in DE 44 40 625 A1 and in DE 1 95 03 465 A1 described.

Particularly suitable chitosans have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5 × 10 ⁵ to 5 × 10 ⁶ (g / mol).

For the production of preparations according to the invention, the chitosan must be converted into the salt form. This can be done by dissolving in dilute aqueous acids. As acids are both mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid and organic acids, such as low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids suitable. Furthermore, higher molecular weight alkyl sulfonic acids or alkyl sulfuric acids or organophosphoric acids can be used, provided that they have the required physiological compatibility. Suitable acids for converting the chitosan into the salt form are, for example, acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Preference is given to using low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids, for example glycolic acid or lactic acid.

• – die im Molekül sowohl freie Aminogruppen als auch freie -COOH- oder SO₃H-Gruppen enthalten und zur Ausbildung innerer Salze befähigt sind,
• – zwitterionische Polymere, die im Molekül quartäre Ammoniumgruppen und -COO^–-Gruppen oder -SO₃ ^–-Gruppen enthalten, sowie
• – Polymere, die -COOH-Gruppen oder SO₃H-Gruppen und quartäre Ammoniumgruppen enthalten.

By the term amphoteric polymers are meant such polymers,

• Which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts,
• - zwitterionic polymers containing in the molecule quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- groups or -SO ₃ ^- groups, as well as
• Polymers containing -COOH groups or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

The in the list mentioned polymers with quaternary Ammonium groups are preferred according to the invention as amphoteric polymers used.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

Further usable according to the invention Amphoteric polymers are those in the British patent application 2 104 091, the European Laid-open specification 47 714, the European patent application 217 274, the European Offenlegungsschrift 283 817 and the German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369 compounds.

• – Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (M1), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵ Ac^(–) (M1)in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist,
• – Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (M2),
  
  worin R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für eine Methylgruppe und A^– das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist.

Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

• Monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (M1), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ Ac ^(-) (M1) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
• Monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (M2),
  
  wherein R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and A ^{- is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid.

When a cationic group of the amphoteric or cationic polymers is derived from the monomer of the formula (M1), the radicals R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ in the formula (M1) are preferably methyl groups, Z is preferably an NH group and A ^{( -)} is preferably a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion. It is particularly preferred in this case to use acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride as the monomer (M1).

In formula (M2), A ^{- is} preferably a halide ion, in particular chloride or bromide.

• – monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (M3) bzw. deren Salze mit einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure, R⁸-CH=CR⁹-COOH (M3)in denen R⁸ und R⁹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are polymers whose anionic group is derived from at least one monomer of the formula (M3)

• - Monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (M3) or their salts with an organic or on organic acid, R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (M ³ ) in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

When Monomer (M3) is used for the preferred according to the invention amphoteric polymers used acrylic acid.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (M1) or (M2) with the monomer (M3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (M2) and (M3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

• – monomere Carbonsäureamide der allgemeinen Formel (M4),
  
  in denen R¹⁰ und R¹¹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind und R¹² für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₁- bis C₈)-Alkylgruppe steht, enthalten.

In addition, in addition to a monomer (M1) or M (2) and a monomer (M3), the amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally comprise a monomer (M4)

• Monomeric carboxylic acid amides of general formula (M4),
  
  in which R ¹⁰ and R ¹¹ independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{12 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ - to C ₈ ) -alkyl group.

Very particularly preferably used according to the invention comonomer based on a comonomer (M4) are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

• (i) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (M1), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R²R³R⁴ A^(–) (M1)in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist und
• (ii) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (M3), R⁸-CH=CR⁹-COOH (M3) in denen R⁰ und R⁹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (M1), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^(-) (M1) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
• (ii) monomeric carboxylic acids of general formula (M3), R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (M ³ ) in which R ⁰ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

With regard to the details of the preparation of these particularly preferred polymers is expressly made to the content of German Patent Application 39 29 973 reference. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (i) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

The amphoteric polymers can generally both directly and in salt form, by neutralizing the Polymers, for example, with an alkali metal hydroxide obtained is used according to the invention become.

• (i) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein kationisches Polymer,
• (ii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein amphoteres Polymer,
• (iii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein kationisches Polymer, abgeleitet von mindestens einem Monomer aus den oben genannten Formeln (M1) und/oder (M2),
• (iv) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein amphoteres Copolymer, das ist im wesentlichen zusammensetzt aus mindestens einem Monomer der Formel (M1) und mindestens einem Monomer der Formel (M3),
• (v) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein kationisches Polymer,
• (vi) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein amphoteres Polymer,
• (vii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein kationisches Polymer, abgeleitet von mindestens einem Monomer aus den oben genannten Formeln (M1) und/oder (M2),
• (viii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein amphoteres Copolymer, das ist im wesentlichen zusammensetzt aus mindestens einem Monomer der Formel (M1) und mindestens einem Monomer der Formel (M3),
• (ix) mindestens einem Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein kationisches Polymer,
• (x) mindestens einem Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein amphoteres Polymer,
• (xi) mindestens einem Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein kationisches Polymer, abgeleitet von mindestens einem Monomer aus den oben genannten Formeln (M1) und/oder (M2),
• (xii) mindestens einem Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein amphoteres Copolymer, das ist im wesentlichen zusammensetzt aus mindestens einem Monomer der Formel (M1) und mindestens einem Monomer der Formel (M3).

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) cream, additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii) in a cosmetic carrier:

• (i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic polymer,
• (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one amphoteric polymer,
• (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic polymer derived at least one monomer from the abovementioned formulas (M1) and / or (M2),
• (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one amphoteric copolymer, which is composed essentially of at least one monomer of the formula (M1) and at least one monomer of the formula (M3),
• (v) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic polymer,
• (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one amphoteric polymer,
• (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic polymer derived from at least one monomer from the abovementioned formulas (M1) and / or (M2),
• (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one amphoteric copolymer, which is composed essentially of at least one monomer of the formula (M1) and at least one monomer of the formula (M3),
• (ix) at least one bleach booster and at least one cationic polymer,
• (x) at least one bleach booster and at least one amphoteric polymer,
• (xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one cationic polymer derived from at least one monomer from the abovementioned formulas (M1) and / or (M2),
• (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one amphoteric copolymer, which is composed essentially of at least one monomer of the formula (M1) and at least one monomer of the formula (M3).

In a further preferred embodiment the invention, the effect by adding at least one Fatty are further optimized. Under fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, Fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes which are both solid and liquid aqueous dispersion can be present and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components to understand.

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The Amount used is thereby 0,1-15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent. In a preferred embodiment is the amount 0.5-10 Wt .-%, with very particularly advantageous amounts of 1-5 wt .-% are.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Selbstverständ Lich also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%.

When natural or synthetic waxes can used according to the invention be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, bee waxes, Candelilla, ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, Fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, Microwachse made of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂–C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomertraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^®868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Mono-, Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, wie beispielsweise Monomuls^® 90-O18, Monomuls^® 90-L12 oder Cutina^® MD.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the action of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The commercially available compounds 1,3-di (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B ), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• - mono-, di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as ^® Monomuls 90-O18, Monomuls 90-L12 ^® or Cutina ^® MD.

The Amount used is 0.1-50 Wt .-% based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-% and more preferably 0.1-15 Wt .-% based on the total agent.

The Total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions of the invention is usually 6-45% by weight, based on the total mean. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.

Furthermore, it has been found that the effect can be increased if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid ester. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C ₁ -C _{2 15} fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. The amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid used is 0.1-15 wt .-% based on the average, preferably 0.1-10 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1-5 wt .-%.

• (i) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens einen Fettstoff,
• (ii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens einen C₁₀ bis C₂₂-Fettalkohol,
• (iii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens eine C₁₀ bis C₂₂-Fettsäure,
• (iv) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein natürliches oder synthetisches Wachs,
• (v) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens einen natürlichen oder synthetischen Ölkörper,
• (vi) mindestens Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens einen Fettstoff,
• (vii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens einen C₁₀ bis C₂₂-Fettalkohol,
• (viii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens eine C₁₀ bis C₂₂-Fettsäure,
• (ix) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein natürliches oder synthetisches Wachs,
• (x) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens einen natürlichen oder synthetischen Ölkörper,
• (xi) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens einen Fettstoff,
• (xii) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens einen C₁₀ bis C₂₂-Fettalkohol,
• (xiii) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens eine C₁₀ bis C₂₂-Fettsäure,
• (xiv) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein natürliches oder synthetisches Wachs,
• (xv) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens einen natürlichen oder synthetischen Ölkörper.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) cream, additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii) in a cosmetic carrier:

• (i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one fatty substance,
• (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty alcohol,
• (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid,
• (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one natural or synthetic wax,
• (v) at least one color-modifying component and at least one natural or synthetic oil body,
• (vi) at least developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one fatty substance,
• (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty alcohol,
• (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid,
• (ix) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one natural or synthetic wax,
• (x) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one natural or synthetic oil body,
• (xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one fatty substance,
• (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty alcohol,
• (xiii) at least one bleach booster and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid,
• (xiv) at least one bleach booster and at least one natural or synthetic wax,
• (xv) at least one bleach booster and at least one natural or synthetic oil body.

It is preferred according to the invention, that the funds in addition contain at least one alkalizing agent. The inventively usable Alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group formed is made of ammonia, basic amino acids, alkali hydroxides, alkanolamines, Alkali metal metasilicates, urea, morpholine, N-methylglucamine, Imidazole, alkali phosphates and alkali hydrogen phosphates. As alkali metal ions are preferably lithium, sodium, potassium, especially sodium or potassium.

The as inventive alkalizing agent usable basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group formed from L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine, L-histidine, D-histidine, D, L-histidine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D, L-lysine, more preferably L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine used as an alkalizing agent in the context of the invention.

The as inventive alkalizing agent usable alkali metal hydroxides are preferably selected from the group formed from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.

The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 -Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol , 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol. Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.

More preferably, the alkalizing agent is selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-pro pan-1,3-diol, potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, D-arginine, DL-arginine, N-methylglucamine, morpholine, imidazole and urea.

• (i) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und Ammoniak,
• (ii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und mindestens ein Alkanolamin,
• (iii) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und 2-Aminoethan-1-ol,
• (iv) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und Ammoniak und 2-Aminoethan-1-ol,
• (v) mindestens eine farbverändernde Komponente und 2-Aminoethan-1-ol und L-Arginin,
• (vi) mindestens Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und Ammoniak,
• (vii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und mindestens ein Alkanolamin,
• (viii) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und 2-Aminoethan-1-ol,
• (ix) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und Ammoniak und 2-Aminoethan-1-ol,
• (x) mindestens eine Entwicklerkomponente (und gegebenenfalls eine Kupplerkomponente) und 2-Aminoethan-1-ol und L-Arginin,
• (xi) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und Ammoniak,
• (xii) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und mindestens ein Alkanolamin,
• (xiii) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und 2-Aminoethan-1-ol,
• (xiv) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und Ammoniak und 2-Aminoethan-1-ol,
• (xv) mindestens einen Bleichverstärker und 2-Aminoethan-1-ol und L-Arginin.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) cream, additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii) in a cosmetic carrier:

• (i) at least one color-modifying component and ammonia,
• (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one alkanolamine,
• (iii) at least one color-modifying component and 2-aminoethane-1-ol,
• (iv) at least one color-modifying component and ammonia and 2-aminoethane-1-ol,
• (v) at least one color-modifying component and 2-aminoethane-1-ol and L-arginine,
• (vi) at least developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and ammonia,
• (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one alkanolamine,
• (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and 2-aminoethane-1-ol,
• (ix) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and ammonia and 2-aminoethane-1-ol,
• (x) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and 2-aminoethane-1-ol and L-arginine,
• (xi) at least one bleach booster and ammonia,
• (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one alkanolamine,
• (xiii) at least one bleach booster and 2-aminoethane-1-ol,
• (xiv) at least one bleach booster and ammonia and 2-aminoethane-1-ol,
• (xv) at least one bleach booster and 2-aminoethane-1-ol and L-arginine.

The agents according to the invention contain preferred in addition at least one vitamin. fat-soluble Vitamins, selected from vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin A and vitamin K as well as mixtures From this, according to the invention are particularly prefers.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester, 2-Cyano-3-phenyl-zimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylben-zylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-meth-oxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• – Triazinderivate, wie z.B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyltriazon.
• – Propan-1,3-dione, wie z.B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion;

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. Under UV light filters are organic substances to understand that are able to absorb ultra-violet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg heat to give back. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

• 3-benzylidene camphor and derivatives thereof, eg 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.
• Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sul-fonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsul-fonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments, namely finely dispersed, are also used for this purpose metal oxides or salts, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

Farther it is preferred in addition to the inventive agent at least to incorporate a plant extract.

suitable Plant extracts are made by extraction with organic solvents (such as, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethyl ether, gasoline, Benzene, chloroform) or by steam distillation. Preferred plant extracts are, for example, extracts of flowers (linden flowers, camomiles, Lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and Scroll (Cassis, Horse Chestnut, Rooibos, Birch, Melissa, Clover, Grape Leaves, Geranium, Patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (Aniseed, Cassis, Coriander, Caraway, Juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (Macis, Angelica, Celery, Cardamom, Costus, Iris, Calmus), Woods (Pine, Sandal, guajac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, Sage, thyme, rosemary), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, Pines, sandalwood), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, Myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).

Especially the plant extracts are preferably selected from at least one extract from the group Hamamelis (Hamamelis virginiana L.), grape leaves (Vitis vinifera L.), roses (Rosa gallica L.), sandalwood (Pterocarpus santalinus), Rooibos (Aspalathus linearis), horse chestnut (Aesculus Hippocastanum L.), clover (especially red clover, Trifolium pratense), cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum nees) and Cassis (in particular from Cassis leaves, Ribes nigrum L.).

Such extracts are preferably used are marketed under the names Herbasol ^® by the company Cosmetochem or Extrapone ^® by the company Symrise.

The Plant extracts are preferred in the composition according to the invention in one Amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, respectively based on the weight of the total agent.

• – nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere und Polysiloxane,
• – anionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Polyacrylsäuren, vernetzte Polyacrylsäuren, Vinylacetat/Crotonsäure-Copolymere, Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Vinylacetat/Butylmaleat/Isobornylacrylat-Copolymere, Methylvinylether/Malein-säureanhydrid-Copolymere und Acrylsäure/Ethylacrylat/N-tert.Butyl-acrylamid-Terpolymere,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline,
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat
• – Entschäumer wie Silikone,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäuren und deren Salze sowie Bisabolol,
• – Pflanzenextrakte wie die Extrakte aus Grünem Tee, Eichenrinde, Brennessel, Hamamelis, Hopfen, Kamille, Klettenwurzel, Schachtelhalm, Weißdorn, Lindenblüten, Mandel, Aloe Vera, Fichtennadel, Roßkastanie, Sandelholz, Wacholder, Kokosnuß, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi, Melone, Orange, Grapefruit, Salbei, Rosmarin, Birke, Malve, Wiesenschaumkraut, Quendel, Schafgarbe, Thymian, Melisse, Hauhechel, Huflattich, Eibisch, Meristem, Ginseng und Ingwerwurzel,.
• – Cholesterin,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Stabilisierungsmittel für Wasserstoffperoxyd und andere Oxidationsmittel,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien.

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as

• Nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
• Anionic polymers, for example polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate
• Defoamers like silicones,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
• - active substances such as allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol,
• - Plant extracts such as extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quender, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Hominy, Coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root ,.
• - cholesterol,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants.

Regarding further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used expressly to the relevant manuals known to those skilled in the art, e.g. Kh. Schrader, Basics and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

For the second Subject of the invention applies mutatis mutandis that for the first subject of the invention Said.

• – unmittelbar vor dem Auftragen des oxidativen kosmetischen Mittels ein kosmetisches Mittel, enthaltend in einem kosmetischen Träger Sahne, aufgetragen und gegebenenfalls nach einer Einwirkungszeit wieder abgespült wird und/oder
• – das oxidative kosmetische Mittel zusätzlich Sahne, enthält.
• Die Einwirkungszeit der Sahne beträgt bevorzugt 1 bis 100 Minuten, besonders bevorzugt 5 bis 50 Minuten.

A third subject of the invention is a method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the hair and rinsed by the hair after a contact time, wherein

• - immediately before the application of the oxidative cosmetic agent, a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier cream, applied and optionally rinsed again after a contact time and / or
• - the oxidative cosmetic agent additionally contains cream.
• The exposure time of the cream is preferably 1 to 100 minutes, more preferably 5 to 50 minutes.

It is again preferred according to the invention the inventive method as part of an oxidative hair coloring, the oxidative hair bleach or the fixation in the context of a perm apply. It is preferred, the cream together with the Apply oxidizer on the hair.

In a preferred embodiment the method according to the invention as oxidative hair dyeing method, the cream is preferred as part of a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier additionally at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor in one step applied.

The oxidative hair dye this embodiment are preferably two-component agents. The first component contains in one cosmetic carrier the cream and at least one oxidation dye precursor. The second component contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent. These components are preferred seperated from each other in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Short before use, both components are mixed together.

In the embodiment the method according to the invention as an oxidative hair bleaching method, the cream is preferred as Component of a cosmetic containing in a cosmetic carrier additionally at least one oxidizing agent and at least one bleaching booster in applied to a step.

The oxidative hair bleaches of this embodiment are preferably or three-component means. The first component contains in one cosmetic carrier the cream and optionally at least one bleach booster. Of the bleach booster can also be made up separately from the cream, for example in powder form, as an anhydrous paste or anhydrous oil. Thereby a three-component agent is obtained. The last component contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent. All components are preferred segregated from each other in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Just before use, all components are mixed together.

The previously described multicomponent agents for carrying out the inventive method can be provided in a packaging unit. The packaging unit can at least include either a container containing the agent of the second subject of the invention, or may be at least two Kontainer include, wherein a first Kontainer an oxidative cosmetic Agent comprising at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier, contains a second container is a cosmetic agent containing in one cosmetic carrier Cream, contains and optionally a third container, the at least one bleaching amplifier embedded in a cosmetic carrier, contains. All Kontainer can also Chambers of a multi-chamber container be.

For the third Subject of the invention applies mutatis mutandis that for the first and second subject of the invention Said.

The The following examples are intended to form the subject of the present invention explain but without limiting it.

Examples

The The following formulations were prepared using known preparation methods provided. The following commercial products were used as raw materials used:

Hydrenol ^® D C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol) (Cognis Germany) Lorol® ^® techn. C _{1 2} -C _{1 8} fatty alcohol (INCI name: Coconut alcohol) (Cognis Germany) Stenol ^® 16/18 C _16-18 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (Cognis) Lorol® ^® 16 INCI name: Cetyl Alcohol (Cognis) Eumulgin ^® B1 Cetylstearylakohol with 12 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (Cognis Germany) Eumulgin ^® B2 Cetylstearylalkohol with approx. 20 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (Cognis Germany) Cutina ^® GMS-V Glycerol mono / dipalmitate / stearate (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate) (Cognis) Dehyquart ^® F 75 Fatty alcohol Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfat dialkyl mixture (INCI name: distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol) (Henkel) Ajidew NL-50  sodium salt the pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid (about 48-52% active ingredient content; INCI name: Sodium PCA) (Ajinomoto) Turpinal® ^® SL  1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua (Water)) (Solutia) Plantapon ^® LGC  Alkylpolyglucosid-carboxylate Sodium salt; 30% active substance (Cognis Germany) Texapon ^® NSO UP  Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (27% active ingredient, INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (Manufacturer: COGNIS) Texapon ^® K 14 S 70 C Laurylmyristylethersulfat sodium salt (about 68% to 73% active ingredient content; INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (Cognis) Disponil FES 77 IS ^®  fatty alcohol ether sulfate (about 31-33% Active substance content in water; INCI name: Sodium Coceth-30 Sulfate) (Cognis) Akypo ^® Soft 45 NV 2- (C _12-14 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (4.5 EO)) acetic acid, sodium salt; 21% active substance; INCI name: Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate (KAO) Gluadin® ^® W 40 Wheat protein hydrolyzate (at least 40% solids; INCI name: Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, propylparaben) (Cognis) Gluadin® ^® WQ Wheat protein hydrolyzate (about 31-35% Solid; INCI name: Aqua (Water), Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat protein, ethylparaben, methylparaben) (Cognis)

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP C _12-16 -fatty alcohol-1,4-glucoside (about 50-53% active ingredient content; INCI name: Lauryl Glucoside, Aqua (Water)) (Cognis) Lamesoft ^® PO 65 Alkyl polyglucoside Oleic acid monoglyceride Mixture (about 65-70% Solid; INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua (Water)) (Cognis) Aculyn ^® 33 30 % By weight of active substance in water (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer) (Rohm & Haas) DOW ^Corning® DB 110 A nonionic Silicone emulsion (10% by weight of active substance) (INCI name: dimethicone) (Dow Corning) Varisoft W 575 PG (INCI name: Quaternium-87, propylene glycol) (Goldschmidt) Polymer ^® W 37194 approximately 20% by weight of active substance content in water; INCI name: acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chlorides / Acrylates Copolymer (Stockhausen) Extrapone ^® Cream 7 % By weight of cream powder as active substance (INCI name: glycerol, Aqua (Water), Pentylene Glycol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Dried Cream, Xanthan gum) (Symrise)

The Quantities are, unless otherwise indicated, wt .-% based on the total weight of the respective recipe.

1.1 Blonding agent

1.1.2 Entwickler

2.1.3 Bleichverstärker (NH₄)₂S₂O₈ 96 Aerosil 200 4 The bleaching agents B1, B2, B3 and B4 each consist of a bleaching cream and the associated developer E1, and a bleach booster. To prepare the ready Blondiermittels 50 g of the bleaching agent were added to 50 g of the corresponding bleaching cream. With stirring, 20 g of the corresponding developer was added. When applied to hair and exposed for 30 minutes, after rinsing and drying, excellent brightening was observed with little scalp irritation. 1.1.1 Blonding cream

1.1.2 Developer

2.1.3 bleaching amplifier (NH ₄ ) ₂ S ₂ O ₈ 96 Aerosil 200 4

2.2 oxidative colorants

• * durch Zentrifugation von Milch mit anschließender Sprühtrocknung gewonnenes Sahnepulver

2.2.2 Entwickler

2.2.3 Konditioner

• * durch Zentrifugation von Milch mit anschließender Sprühtrocknung gewonnenes Sahnepulver

The colorants each consist of one of the coloring creams F1 to F8 and the associated developer E2. To prepare the ready-to-use colorant 50 g of the dyeing cream were mixed with stirring with 50 g of the developer E2. When applied to head hair and a contact time of 30 minutes, after conditioning and drying with the conditioner after treatment. An excellent staining result was observed. The scalp was not irritated. 2.2.1 Dyeing creams

• * cream powder obtained by centrifuging milk followed by spray-drying

2.2.2 Developer

2.2.3 Conditioner

• * cream powder obtained by centrifuging milk followed by spray-drying

3.0 Determination of hair damage

• * durch Zentrifugation von Milch mit anschließender Sprühtrocknung gewonnenes Sahnepulver

Subsequent formulations were provided according to a standard procedure (amounts are by weight in each case). They correspond to coloring creams without dye precursors. creams:

• * cream powder obtained by centrifuging milk followed by spray-drying

Developers Emulsion:

The Cream formulations T0 and T1 were each treated with the developer emulsion E in weight ratio Mixed 1: 1. This results in the case of T-0 a non-inventive mixture. The application mixture T1 is according to the invention.

The Application mixture was in the weight ratio 4: 1 (application mixture to amount of hair) for 30 min at 32 ° C on strands of hair (Kerling Euro natural hair 6/0) applied. The hair strands were subsequently washed and dried. The process was repeated 3 times.

The hair damage in the context of the above-described oxidative hair treatment through the formation of cysteic acid by amino acid analysis quantified:

amino acid analysis

After acidic total hydrolysis of a sample of the untreated hair strand and a sample of the treated hair strand, the amino acid composition was determined by ion exchange chromatography. It is known that the oxidative damage of the hair proteins manifests itself in particular in the formation of cysteic acid from cystine. The reduction of hair damage in% is calculated as follows:

Based on the total amino acid content a cysteic acid content of 0.50 mol% was measured in untreated hair. This value increased to 1.59 mol% after 3 treatments with T0 / E, with T1 / E, however, only to 1.23 mol%.

In order to Through the use of cream, a reduction of hair damage was possible 33% during the oxidative hair treatment can be detected.

Claims (10)

Use of cream, - to reduce the oxidative Hair damage, - for reduction the scalp irritation and / or - to relieve sensory Miss sensations on the scalp, such as in particular stinging or Itching, each as part of an oxidative hair treatment. Agent containing in a cosmetic carrier combination of (i) at least one oxidizing agent and (Ii) Cream. Agent according to claim 2, characterized in that it is the Cream in an amount of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight dry matter of cream, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent. Agent according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized that it additionally at least one color-changing Component contains. Agent according to claim 4, characterized in that the color-modifying Component is selected (A) of at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer component type and optionally in addition at least one coupler component and or (b) from oxo dye precursors and or (C) from at least one direct dye and or (D) from at least one precursor of nature-analogous dyes and or (E) from at least one bleach booster. Agent according to one of claims 2 to 5, characterized that it additionally contains at least one surfactant. Agent according to one of claims 2 to 6, characterized that this Oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds is. Agent according to one of claims 2 to 7, characterized that this Oxidizing agent in an amount of 1.0 to 10.0 wt .-% based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent. Process for oxidative hair treatment, in which a oxidative cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the hair and is rinsed from the hair after a contact time, characterized in that that - immediate before applying the oxidative cosmetic agent, a cosmetic Cream containing cream applied in a cosmetic carrier and optionally rinsed again after a contact time and or - the oxidative cosmetic products in addition Cream, contains. Packaging unit comprising in a first container an oxidative cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent and in a second container Cosmetic compositions containing cream in a cosmetic carrier.