EP2043596A1

EP2043596A1 - Cosmetic stick

Info

Publication number: EP2043596A1
Application number: EP07787112A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Heidi Riedel; Kirsten Schneider; Frank Schwanke; Lynn Viehmeyer
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2006-07-17
Filing date: 2007-07-05
Publication date: 2009-04-08
Also published as: WO2008009562A1; DE102006034026A1

Abstract

Cosmetic preparation in stick form containing a) a combination of one or more natural waxes, one or more microcrystalline waxes and one or more synthetic waxes, the total amount of all waxes in the preparation being 9 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, b) a plurality of oils, and c) one or more lipids with a melting point of 30° to 40°C in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Description

description

Cosmetic pen

The present invention relates to a cosmetic stick.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive has been rooted in people for thousands of years. Even though the ideal of beauty has undergone changes over time, the pursuit of an impeccable appearance has always been the goal of man, since a sympathetic appearance enhances their self-esteem and attraction to their fellow human beings. The term "decorative cosmetics" derives from the Latin "decoratio" - the highlighting of the beautiful - in the majority of cases, with the help of dyes, individual parts of the body, especially on the face, are emphasized and color inconsistencies mitigated.

One of the most widely used decorative cosmetics is lipstick. More than 50% of women in Germany use it. He usually serves in addition to the color emphasis of the lips for lip care. In addition to the classic lipstick, lip gloss and contour pencils are also used. Lip Gloss gives the lips a strong decorative sheen, contour pins serve to emphasize the lip edges.

Lipsticks usually consist of a wax matrix in which low-concentration liquid and semi-solid oils and pigments and fillers are incorporated. They are in solid pen form.

Lip Gloss contains predominantly liquid oils that leave a moist, moisturizing "oil film" on the skin.Lip Gloss is available in liquid or viscous form at room temperature.

The decorative most effective effects in the lip area can be achieved in particular by a combination of colored lipstick and lip gloss. The color emphasizes the mouth area, the moist-shining lip-gloss gives the lips a healthy lush appearance, because lip-gloss leaves the lips fuller (voluminous) act. When it comes to make-up, the usually female user of decorative lip cosmetics usually proceeds by first using a lipstick to dye the lips and then "paint" them with lip-gloss, which is a two-stage make-up process using two different cosmetics (colored lipstick and lip gloss) are used.

A disadvantage of the prior art is the fact that it has not been possible to develop moist gloss lip gloss lipsticks. With conventional lipsticks, if the amount of oil increases, the pins quickly lose their strength and produce viscous, non-malleable masses. If you increase the amount of wax in lip-gloss formulations, the preparations lose their shine very quickly before they even reach the desired pen consistency.

In order to achieve the greatest possible decorative effect (the combination of dyed and moist-shining lip), it is therefore necessary according to the prior art to use two different products (lipstick and gloss) in succession. In addition to the disadvantage that in this application form when users like a "pebble" of the "kit" lost or prematurely running out, especially when it comes to products from different manufacturers, the problem is that the individual parts (pen and Gloss ) of the "building block" are only partially compatible with each other.

Although there has been no lack of attempts in the past to develop lipsticks in which the gloss effect is to be imitated by means of pearlescent pigments, these pearlescent pigments are more likely to produce an undesirable glittering effect and not the typical moistness of the eye ("moisturizing"). look "in the jargon of beauticians called).

It was therefore surprising and unforeseeable for the skilled person that the disadvantages of the prior art are overcome by a cosmetic preparation in stick form comprising a) a combination of one or more natural waxes, one or more microcrystalline waxes, one or more synthetic waxes, wherein the total amount of all waxes in the preparation is 9 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, b) several oils c) one or more lipids having a melting point of 30-40 ° C in a total amount of 5-15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The preparations according to the invention are distinguished by high pen strength, a slight abrasion when applied to the lips and an exceptionally high wet gloss.

According to the invention, the term "stick-shaped preparation" is understood to mean a preparation which has the consistency of a conventional lipstick at room temperature (20 ° C.) In particular, it is firm and dimensionally stable on the one hand and easily spread on the lips on the other hand.

The melting points and melting ranges according to the invention can be determined according to the invention according to DIN 51803.

It is preferred according to the invention if the total amount of all waxes in the preparation is 10 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if one or more lipids with a melting point of 30-40 ° C in a total amount of up to 8-12 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation in this are included.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains pigments in an amount of 0.05-8 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains pigments in an amount of up to 1-5% by weight or 2-4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for a person skilled in the art that the smaller the pigment particle size in the preparation, the more intense the color of the preparation after application to the skin is. Furthermore, it was not foreseeable for the skilled worker that the smaller the pigment concentration, the greater the wet gloss.

It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention in stick form is characterized in that the pigments have an average size of 2 to 5 μm. The average size of the particles can be determined as follows: Measuring instrument: Grindometer; Measuring range: 0-25 μm; The sample is filled into the lower end (at 25 μm) of the grindometer without air bubbles. Subsequently, the sample is spread evenly with a scraper to the other end of the grindometer. After the sample has been spread, the particle size is determined by observing the surface of the grindometer against the light. At the depth where the particles leave marks on the surface of the grindometer, the value is read.

Pigments of the invention may be of organic and inorganic origin, such as azo-type organic, indigoidene, triphenylmethane-type, anthraquinones, and xanthine dyes known as D & C and FD & C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows. Inorganic pigments consist of insoluble salts of certified dyes called lakes or iron oxides. For example, barium lakes, calcium lakes, aluminum lakes, titanium dioxides, mica and iron oxides can be used. Al salts include Red 3 Aluminum Lake, Red 21 Aluminum Lake, Red 27 Aluminum Lake, Red 28 Aluminum Lake, Red 33 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 5 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 6 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 10 Aluminum Lake, Orange 5 Aluminum Lake , Blue 1 Aluminum Lake and combinations.

As iron oxides or oxide hydrates, e.g. cosmetic yellow oxide C33- (sunchemical), cosmetic brown oxide C33-115 (Sun Chemical), cosmetic iron oxide red C33-2199 (Sun Chemical), cosmetic russet oxide C33-8075 (Sun Chemical), cosmetic iron oxide black C33-5000 (Sunchemical), as Titanium Dioxide eg Kronos 1 171 (Kronos), C47-051 Cosmetic White (Sunchemical) is known and, if appropriate, beneficial.

It is likewise preferred if these preparations have a content of inorganic pigments selected from the group of metal oxides and / or other sparingly water-soluble or insoluble metal compounds, preferably oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding Metals and mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ) have.

The inorganic pigments can advantageously be used in the context of the present invention also in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersants and / or solubilizers may advantageously be added to these predispersions. According to the invention, the pigments may advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), whereby, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained.This surface treatment may consist in using a thin hydrophilic and hydrophilic pigment according to methods known per se or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ). 6, sodium metaphosphate (NaPOs) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ Os). These inorganic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 Dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings may be present alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

The process according to the invention also includes the incorporation of color pigments into the preparations according to the invention. The color pigments are first predispersed in a cosmetic oil before this dispersion is incorporated into the preparation. Oils which are advantageous according to the invention for the preparation of the dispersion of the dyes are, above all, polar oils, in particular castor oil, coconut glycerides, octyldodecanol, diisostearyl fumarate. According to the invention it is advantageous to use a bead mill for the preparation of the dispersion, wherein the pigments, the cosmetic oil and the grinding beads are exposed to circulation together in the grinding basket. As a result, excellent dispersing results and a very narrow particle size spectrum are obtained after a very short time. The mean particle size is around 2-5 microns.

Pigments, especially inorganic pigments, can also act as a light filter and thus protect the lips from damage by UV radiation. The cosmetic preparation according to the invention is characterized in that the preparation after application to the skin produces a gloss value of greater than or equal to 10 after a time of 5 minutes. According to the invention, preparations which produce a gloss value of greater than 12 after a time of 5 minutes are preferred. Particular preference is given to preparations which produce a gloss value of greater than 14 after a time of 5 minutes.

The gloss value according to the invention is determined by the following method: To determine the skin gloss, a reflectance spectrometer (measuring instrument: tenth gloss meter ZGM 1020 60 °) is used. Using a light guidance technique and a special measuring head, white light is applied to the skin surface at an entrance angle of 60 °. The light reflected or mirrored at the exit angle of likewise 60 ° is supplied to the detector and quantified. Characteristic: Gloss value according to DIN EN ISO 2813 The measurement takes place on the untreated area, as well as after 5 minutes and 15 minutes of application.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention advantageously contains 0-5% by weight pearlescent pigments.

These include natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.

"Fischsilber" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and "mother of pearl" (ground mussel shells), monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such. B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl), layer substrate pigments: e.g. Mica / metal oxide

Also advantageous, for example, are the following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide:

The pigments of the companies Costenoble (cloisonne type, flamenco type, Low Luster type), Merck (Colorona types, Microna type, Timiron type, Colorona, Ronasphere), Les Colornats Wacker (Covapure, Vert oxyde de Chrome), Cadre (Colorona, Sicopearl), BASF (Sicopearl, Sicovit), Rona (Colorona).

It may also be advantageous to completely dispense with a substrate such as mica. Particular preference is given to pearlescent pigments which are prepared using SiO ₂ , for example those obtainable from Merck under the name Xirona. Such pigments, which may also have additional gonichromatic effects are, for. B. under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico available from BASF.

Pigments based on synthetic mica (synthetic fluorophlogopite) from Sunchemical can be advantageously used. These are available under the name SunShine.

Further advantageous pigments of Engelhard / Mearl based on calcium sodium borosilicate, which are coated with titanium dioxide, can be used. These are available under the name Reflecks. Due to their particle size of 40 - 180 μm, they have a glittering effect in addition to the color. Further advantageous pigments of Merck based on calcium aluminum borosilicate, which are coated with titanium dioxide, can be used. These are available under the name Ronastar.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the weight ratio of microcrystalline wax to synthetic wax is 45:55 or the proportion of microcrystalline wax is greater. According to the invention, this weight ratio is preferably 50:50.

It is inventively advantageous if the microcrystalline waxes of the invention have a melting range of 60-90 ° C. According to the invention preferably have a melting range of 80 to 90 ° C.

It is inventively advantageous if the synthetic waxes according to the invention have a melting range of 60-90 ° C. According to the invention preferably have a melting range of 70-85 ° C.

According to the invention, "natural waxes" are understood to mean compounds which fall under the term "natural waxes" according to the standard works (for example Römpp-Chemie-Lexikon). In addition, hydrogenated waxes of natural origin (i.e., a natural wax which has been hydrogenated) also fall under this definition.

According to the invention, it is preferred if the natural waxes are selected from the group of the compounds candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, shellac wax, berry wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, wool wax, sugarcane wax, rice germ wax. The use of the natural waxes candelilla wax, carnauba wax and shellac wax according to the invention is particularly preferred.

According to the invention, "microcrystalline waxes" are understood to mean compounds which fall under the term "microcrystalline waxes" according to the standard works (for example Römpp-Chemie-Lexikon).

According to the invention, it is preferred if the microcrystalline waxes are selected from the group of products Micro-La, Paracera, Micro Care from Paramelt, Kahlwachs / microwax, special wax from Kahl Permulgin from Koster Keunen and / or Microcrystalline Wax type SP from Company Strahl & Pitch, which are freely available in the trade. According to the invention, "synthetic waxes" are understood to mean compounds which fall under the term "synthetic waxes" in accordance with the standard works (eg Römpp-Chemie-Lexikon).

According to the invention, it is preferred if the synthetic waxes are selected from the group of compounds of straight-chain polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, fatty alcohols (C30-50) which have a melting point of 60-90 ° C. The use of synthetic waxes polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes according to the invention is particularly preferred.

According to the invention, "lipids" are understood to mean compounds which fall under the term "lipids" according to the standard works (for example Römpp-Chemie-Lexikon), with the exception of the compounds which belong to the waxes or to the oils.

According to the invention, it is preferred if the lipids with a melting point of 30-40 ° C. are selected from the group of the compounds shea butter, myristyl lactate.

According to the invention, oils are understood as meaning compounds which fall under the terms of the standard works (for example Römpp-Chemie-Lexikon) under "oils".

It is inventively preferred if as oils, a mixture of the components

Polyisobutene and / or hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene in an amount of 10-25% by weight,

Pentaerytrityl ester, diisostearyl malate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isododecylstearyl stearate in an amount of 10-25% by weight,

Octyldodecanol in an amount of 5-15% by weight,

- Castor oil, jojoba, avocado, lanolin, coconut glycerides in an amount of 5-25 wt .-%, is used, wherein the weights are based on the total weight of the preparation.

The preparation according to the invention may advantageously contain further constituents according to the invention. Thus, it is preferred according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains as further constituents one or more compounds selected from the group of preservatives, UV light protection filters, dyes, film formers, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin E acetate, allantoin, panthenol, α- Bisabolol, lecithin, ceramides, collagene contains.

In this case, it is preferred according to the invention if the preservatives used are parabens and in particular propylparabens. The preparation according to the invention advantageously contains the preservatives according to the invention in a total concentration of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is inventively preferred if the following compounds are used as UV light protection filters: butyl methoxybenzoylmethane, octyl Methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazines.

The inventive composition contains the UV light protection filter according to the invention advantageously in a total concentration of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is inventively preferred if the following compounds are used as film formers: VP / eicosene copolymer, PVP hexadecene copolymer, sucrose acetate isobutyrate.

The preparation according to the invention advantageously contains the film-forming agents according to the invention in a total concentration of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The active compounds according to the invention vitamin A palmitate, vitamin E acetate, allantoin, panthenol, α-bisabolol, lecithin, ceramides, collagens can advantageously be used according to the invention in a single concentration of 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation be included in this.

Also according to the invention is the process for the preparation of a cosmetic preparation analogous to the example formulations.

Also according to the invention is a lipstick envelope containing the preparation according to the invention.

According to the invention, the use of the preparation according to the invention as a lipstick.

gloss measurement

To determine the skin gloss, a reflectance spectrometer (measuring instrument: Tenth Glossmeter ZGM 1020 60 °) is used. Using a light guidance technique and a special measuring head, white light is applied to the skin surface at an entrance angle of 60 °. The light reflected or mirrored at the exit angle of likewise 60 ° is supplied to the detector and quantified. Characteristic: Gloss value according to DIN EN ISO 2813 The measurement takes place on the untreated area, as well as after 5 minutes and 15 minutes of application. For results see example formulations

Examples

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Also according to the invention is the process for the preparation of a cosmetic preparation, which is characterized in that phase A is melted with constant stirring at 90 ° C. After complete melting of phase A, phase B is added and stirred. The cosmetic preparation is poured into a suitable mold, cooled and demolded.

Claims

claims

1. A cosmetic preparation in stick form comprising a) a combination of one or more natural waxes, one or more microcrystalline waxes, one or more synthetic waxes, wherein the total amount of all waxes in the preparation 9 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation is, b) several oils c) one or more lipids having a melting point of 30-40 ° C in a total amount of 5-15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

2. Cosmetic preparation in stick form according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains pigments in an amount of 0.05-8 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

3. Cosmetic preparation in stick form according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation after application to the skin produces a gloss value of greater than or equal to 10.

4. Cosmetic preparation in stick form according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of microcrystalline wax to synthetic wax is 45:55 or the proportion of microcrystalline wax is greater.

5. Cosmetic preparation in stick form according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural waxes are selected from the group of the compounds candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, shellac wax, berry wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, wool wax, sugarcane wax, rice germ wax.

6. Cosmetic preparation in stick form according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the microcrystalline wax are selected from the group of microcrystalline waxes which have a melting range of 60-90 ° C.

7. Cosmetic preparation in stick form according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the synthetic waxes are selected from the group of compounds of straight-chain polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, fatty alcohols (C30-50) which have a melting point of 60-90 ° C have.

8. Cosmetic preparation in stick form according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipids are selected with a melting point of 30 - 40 ° C from the group of compounds Shea butter, myristyl lactate.

9. Cosmetic preparation in stick form according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as oils a mixture of the components

Pentaerythrityl ester, diisostearyl malate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isododecyl stearyl stearate in an amount of 10-25% by weight,

Octyldodecanol in an amount of 5-15% by weight,

- Castor oil, jojoba, avocado, lanolin, cocoglycerides in an amount of 5-25 wt .-%, is formed, wherein the weights are based on the total weight of the preparation.

10. Cosmetic preparation in stick form according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains as further constituents one or more compounds selected from the group of preservatives, UV light protection filters (which?), Dyes, film formers, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin -E-acetate, allantoin, panthenol, α-bisabolol, lecithin, ceramides, collagen.

1 1. A cosmetic preparation in stick form according to one of claims 2 to 1 1, characterized in that the pigments have an average size of 2 to 5 microns.