EP1986596A1 - Traitement oxydatif du cheveu calmant pour la peau - Google Patents

Traitement oxydatif du cheveu calmant pour la peau

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Publication number
EP1986596A1
EP1986596A1 EP07703177A EP07703177A EP1986596A1 EP 1986596 A1 EP1986596 A1 EP 1986596A1 EP 07703177 A EP07703177 A EP 07703177A EP 07703177 A EP07703177 A EP 07703177A EP 1986596 A1 EP1986596 A1 EP 1986596A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sub
group
amino
formula
extract
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP07703177A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Martina Seiler
Detlef Hollenberg
Thomas Döring
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP1986596A1 publication Critical patent/EP1986596A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of selected active ingredients for soothing the skin during or after the oxidative hair treatment, in particular for reducing the dryness of the skin and for reducing the itching.
  • a corresponding method for calming the skin, as well as the agents which can be used therein, are likewise the subject matter of the present invention.
  • Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.
  • the skin is also exposed to an oxidant-containing cosmetic.
  • the consumer should feel comfortable during and after the hair treatment and the skin and the skin feel of the consumer should not be affected by the oxidative hair treatment.
  • some consumers feel a tightening of the skin or itching after an oxidative hair treatment.
  • the skin reddens easily after an oxidative hair treatment or dries out a little or possibly tends to dandruff.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of a composition comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one active ingredient (W) selected from the group which is formed from compounds of the formula (I)
  • R 1 is a C 2 to C 12 acyl group
  • R 2 is a C 2 to C 30 alkyl group
  • R 3 is a linear C 2 - to C 3 o-alkyl group or a saturated or unsaturated ⁇ -
  • R 4 is a saturated or unsaturated C 5 -alkyl group or a saturated or unsaturated C 15 -hydroxyalkyl group (such as, for example, pentadeca-1-en-1-yl, 3
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CHs) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -C (CH 3 ) 3> n is 1 or 2,
  • Vitamin C and derivatives thereof
  • Niacinamide for soothing the skin, (in particular for reducing skin dryness and / or reducing itching) during or immediately after oxidative hair treatment.
  • an application that directly adjoins the oxidative hair treatment wherein the oxidative cosmetic agent was previously rinsed from the hair and the hair is preferably still wet.
  • cosmetic creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions for example shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair
  • cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.
  • the oxidizing agents according to the invention are different from atmospheric oxygen and have such an oxidation potential that makes it possible to disulfide bridges within or between the To bind proteins of the hair keratin, to oxidatively lighten the natural color pigment melanin and / or to oxidize a developer-type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the oxidizing agent used is in particular hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular to inorganic or organic compounds, such as, for example, sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate,
  • n H 2 O 2 a positive integer greater than 0
  • urea peroxide urea peroxide and melamine peroxide in question.
  • the oxidative cosmetic agent can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the substrate, such as, for example, oxidation dye precursors or melanin.
  • a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the substrate such as, for example, oxidation dye precursors or melanin.
  • Such catalysts are e.g. Metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes.
  • Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ . Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • the metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • Suitable enzymes are e.g. Peroxidases that can significantly increase the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, such enzymes are suitable according to the invention, which generate with the help of atmospheric oxygen in situ small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and activate biocatalytically in this way the oxidation of the dye precursors.
  • Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, e.g. Pyranose oxidase and e.g. D-glucose or galactose,
  • oxidase and pyruvic acid or its salts Pyruvate oxidase and pyruvic acid or its salts, - alcohol oxidase and alcohol (MeOH, EtOH), lactate oxidase and lactic acid and its salts, tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine, uricase and uric acid or their salts, choline oxidase and choline, amino acid oxidase and amino acids.
  • the oxidizing agent is preferably in an amount of 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the inventive composition.
  • both agents may be mixed together, optionally immediately before use, or applied sequentially to the hair.
  • the cosmetic agent used according to the invention therefore additionally contains at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the cosmetic agents used according to the invention contain the active compounds (W) according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 7 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the hydrolyzed yeast extract is particularly in the form of the raw material Relipidum Ref ® (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Butylene Glycol, methyl parabens) of the company Coletica used in accordance with the invention used the means.
  • An amount of 0.5 to 2.0% by weight of this raw material based on the weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic agent is preferred.
  • the hydrolyzed lupine protein is preferably in the form of the raw material Structurine ® (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein (Lupinus Albus) from the company Silab used in the invention are used according to an amount of 2.0 to. 5.0% by weight of this raw material, based on the weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic agent, is preferred.
  • Structurine ® INCI name: Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein (Lupinus Albus) from the company Silab used in the invention are used according to an amount of 2.0 to. 5.0% by weight of this raw material, based on the weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic agent, is preferred.
  • the rosemary extract is particularly in the form of the raw material Merospheres ®: Company Barnet used (INCI name Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, lecithin) in accordance with the invention used the means.
  • Castanea sativa extract is particularly in the form of the raw material Recoverine ® (INCI name: Aqua (Water), Castanea sativa Extract) from the company Silab used in accordance with the invention used the means.
  • An amount of 2.0 to 5.0% by weight of this raw material based on the weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic agent is preferred.
  • Mentha piperita Leaf the extract and the Theobroma cacao extract is in particular as a combination in the form of the raw material Caomint ® (INCI name: Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Mentha piperita (Peppermint) leaf extract, Theobroma cocoa (Cocoa) Extract) from Solabia in the compositions used in the invention.
  • N- (C 8 - to C 30 ) -acyl) -4-hydroxyproline (C 8 - to C 30 ) -alkyl esters can be present both in the D and in the L form or as a mixture of both stereoisomers in particular as a racemate.
  • the Ci 2 - are used to C 2 o-alkyl esters, which in turn preferably carry a C 12 - to C 2 o-acyl group on the N atom.
  • a particularly preferred ester is the N-hexadecanoyl-4-hydroxy-L-proline hexadecyl ester, which is marketed in particular by the company Symrise.
  • the compounds according to formula (I) have as derivatized dipeptide from tyrosine and arginine two stereochemical centers and can exist as S 1 S, R 1 R, R 1 S and S, R isomers. Both radical R 1 and R 2 according to formula (I) can be derived from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals. As preferred representatives of the compounds of the formula (I)
  • R 1 is a C 2 - to C 8 acyl group and R 2 is a Cur to C 22 alkyl group.
  • R 1 is particularly preferably an acetyl group and R 2 is a hexadecyl radical.
  • the compounds of the formula (I) are preferably used in an amount of from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic product.
  • the compounds of formula I are in particular in the form of the raw material Calmosensine ® of the company Sederma (INCI name: Dipeptide-1 cetyl ester Butylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), laureth 3, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acetyl) used in the present invention used the means.
  • an amount of 1, 0 to 3.0 wt .-% of this raw material based on the weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic product is particularly preferred.
  • the compounds ceramides I, ceramides II, ceramides 1, ceramides 2, ceramides 3, ceramides 5 and ceramides 6 known as INCI names are used as active compound (W) as preferred compounds according to formula II.
  • W active compound
  • the compounds of the formula (II) are preferably used in an amount of from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, based on the weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic product.
  • Preferred compounds of the formula (III) are 2-ammonioethanesulfonate (taurine), 2- (N-methylammonio) ethanesulfonate, 2- (N, N-dimethylammonio) ethanesulfonate, 2- (N 1 N 1 N-
  • Methylammonio) propanesulfonate 3- (N, N-dimethylammonio) propanesulfonate, 3- (N 1 N 1 N-
  • Trimethylammonio propane Particularly preferred is 2-Ammonioethansulfonat.
  • a second aspect of the invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetic vehicle, a combination of at least one oxidizing agent and an active compound (W) selected from at least one member of the group which is formed from compounds of the formula (I)
  • R 1 is a C 2 to C 12 acyl group and R 2 is a C 2 to C 30 alkyl group, Theobroma Cacao extract, compounds of the formula (II),
  • R represents a linear C 2 - to C 30 alkyl group or a saturated or unsaturated ⁇ - (C 12 - to C 2 o) acyloxy (C 2 -C 3 o) alkyl group (such as preferably tricosanyl, Heptadecanyl or ⁇ - (octadeca-9,12-dienyloxy) -nonacosanyl) and
  • R 4 is a saturated or unsaturated C 15 -alkyl group or a saturated or unsaturated C 5 -hydroxyalkyl group (such as, for example, pentadeca-1-en-1-yl, 3-hydroxypentadeca-1-en-1-yl, 1-hydroxypentadecanyl) , hydrolysed yeast extract, hydrolyzed lupine protein, in particular from Lupinus Albus, rosemary extract, Castanea sativa extract, Mentha piperita leaf extract,
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 ,
  • Vitamin C and derivatives thereof and niacinamide are examples of Vitamin C and derivatives thereof and niacinamide.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention can be formulated as a rinse-off or leave-on product. It is inventively preferred to rinse the cosmetic agent after the exposure time of the keratin-containing fiber. It is inventively preferred to use the agent according to the invention in the context of a color change of the hair.
  • the cosmetic compositions additionally contain at least one color-modifying component.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds.
  • the color-changing component is again preferably selected
  • developer components are usually primary aromatic amines with another, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used ,
  • p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (Ent1) it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (Ent1)
  • G 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 alkyl radical, a Ci to C 4 - monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (d- to C 4) alkoxy (d - to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a 4'-aminophenyl radical or a C 1 to C 4 -alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl or a 4'-aminophenyl radical;
  • G 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -
  • Monohydroxyalkyl radical a C 2 - to C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 - to C 4) alkoxy alkyl group (Cr to C4), or a C 1 - to C 4 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrogenous group ;
  • G 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or
  • Fluorine atom a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to
  • G 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical or when G 3 and G 4 are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging ⁇ , ⁇ -alkylenedioxy group, such as, for example, an ethylenedioxy group.
  • C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radicals mentioned as substituents in the compounds according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals.
  • C 1 -C 4 -alkoxy radicals which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, a methoxy or an ethoxy group.
  • a C 1 - to C 4 -hydroxyalkyl group a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl or a 4-hydroxybutyl group may be mentioned.
  • a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • a particularly preferred C 2 to C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1, 2-dihydroxyethyl group.
  • halogen atoms are according to the invention F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred.
  • the other terms used are derived according to the invention from the definitions given here.
  • nitrogen-containing groups of the formula (Ent1) are in particular the amino groups, C 1 to C 4 monoalkylamino groups, C 1 to C 4 dialkylamino groups, C 1 to C 4 trialkylammonium groups, C 1 to C 4 monohydroxyalkylamino groups, Imidazolinium and ammonium.
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines of the formula (Ent1) are selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2 , 6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino 3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis-
  • Very particular preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (Ent1) according to the invention are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and N, N -bis- (SS-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • binuclear developer components that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds which correspond to the following formula (Ent2) and their physiologically tolerated salts:
  • Z 1 and Z 2 independently of one another represent a hydroxyl or NH 2 radical which is optionally substituted by a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, by a C 1 - to C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bridge Y.
  • the bridge Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring, which is one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen , Sulfur or nitrogen atoms may be interrupted or terminated and may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or C 1 - to C 8 -alkoxy radicals, or a direct bond,
  • G 5 and G 6 independently of one another represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to C 4 - Polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -Aminoalkylrest or a direct connection to
  • G 7 , G 8 , G 9 , G 10 , G 11 and G 12 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, with the provisos that the compounds of the formula (Ent2) contain only one bridge Y per molecule and the compounds of the formula (Ent2) contain at least one amino group which carries at least one hydrogen atom.
  • Preferred binuclear developer component of the formula (Ent2) are in particular: N, N'-bis (.beta.-hydroxyethyl) -N, N l bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol I N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N 1 N 1 - Bis N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N ' -bis (4 l -amino-3'-methylphenyl) -ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, 1, 3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol , N,
  • Very particularly preferred double bases of formula (Ent2) are N 1 N'-bis (.beta.-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol l Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane and 1, 10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecan or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (Ent3) it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (Ent3)
  • G 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 - to
  • (C 1 - to C 4 ) -alkyl radical a C 1 - to C 4 -aminoalkyl radical, a HyOrOXy- (C 1 - to C 4 ) -alkylamino radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a C 1 - to
  • G 14 is a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -
  • Monohydroxyalkyl radical a C 2 - to C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 - to C) -AIkOXy- -, alkyl (C 1 to C 4) a C 1 - to C 4 aminoalkyl radical or a C 1 - to C 4- cyanoalkyl radical,
  • G 15 is hydrogen, C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl, C 1 - to C 4 -monohydroxyalkyl, C 2 - to C 4 -polyhydroxyalkyl, phenyl or benzyl, and
  • G 16 is hydrogen or a halogen atom.
  • Preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (Ent3) are, in particular, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-amino-4-aminophenol, 4 -Amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 4-arnino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino -2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2 -chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol and their
  • Very particularly preferred compounds of the formula (Ent3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -phenol and 4-amino 2- (diethylaminomethyl) -phenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as the pyridine, pyrimidine, pyrazole, pyrazole pyrimidine derivatives and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyridine derivatives are, in particular, the compounds described in the patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino 3-Amino-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2- ( ⁇ -methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine and 3,4-diamino-pyridine.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the compounds described in German Patent DE 2 359 399, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication JP 02019576 A2 or in the published patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy- 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine 1 2-dimethylamino-4,5 1 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivatives are, in particular, the compounds described in patents DE 3 843 892, DE 4 133 957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, EP-740 931 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5 Diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4.5- Diamino-1, 3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-Benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1
  • Triaminopyrazole 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methylpyrazole.
  • Preferred pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the derivatives of the pyrazolo [1,5-a] opyrimidine of the following formula (Ent4) and their tautomeric forms, if a tautomeric equilibrium exists:
  • G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a C 1 - to C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 - to C 4 - Polyhydroxyalkylrest a (C 1 - to C 4 ) alkoxy (C r to C 4 ) alkyl, a C 1 - to C 4 - aminoalkyl, which may optionally be protected by an acetyl-ureide or a sulfonyl radical a (C 1 - to C 4) alkylamino (C r to C 4) alkyl a di - aminoalkyl (Ci to C4), wherein the - [(C r to C 4) alkyl] Dialkyl radicals optionally one Form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle having 5 or 6 chain members, a C 1 - to C 4 -hydroxyalkyl or
  • Group OH occupy the positions (2,3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);
  • pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (Ent4) can be prepared as described in the literature by cyclization from an aminopyrazole or hydrazine.
  • m-phenylenediamine derivatives naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives and heterocyclic compounds are generally used.
  • Preferred coupler components according to the invention are m-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as, for example, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2 6-Dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'- Hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol and 2,4 Dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as
  • Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine , 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy 4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
  • Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1 , 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,
  • Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
  • Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, pyrimidine derivatives such as For example, 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy 6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrinnidine, or methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino 3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically acceptable
  • coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol , 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
  • the cosmetic agents contain the developer components preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.
  • the cosmetic compositions contain the coupler components preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.
  • the agent can be used as color-modifying component in the form of Oxofarbstoffvor pas at least one combination of at least one compound of the component
  • Compounds according to the invention having a reactive carbonyl group have at least one carbonyl group as reactive group which reacts with the compounds of component 2 to form a chemical bond linking both components. Further, according to the invention, those compounds are also included as component 1 in which the reactive carbonyl group is derivatized or masked in such a way that the reactivity of the carbon atom of the derivatized or masked carbonyl group with respect to the component 2 is always present.
  • These derivatives are preferably condensation compounds of reactive carbonyl compounds with a) amines and their derivatives to form imines or oximes as a condensation compound b) alcohols to form acetals or ketals as a condensation compound c) water to form hydrates as a condensation compound of aldehydes.
  • Component 1 is preferably selected from the group formed from acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropiophenone, 4-hydroxypropiophenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3 Hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-dihydroxyacetophenone Trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone diethyl ketal, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-acetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4- hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4-dimethylamino
  • Benzylideneacetone 4-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 2-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 4-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-dimethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzylideneacetone, 4-pyrrolidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-piperidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-morpholinobenzylideneacetone, 4- Diethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3-benzylidene-2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 2-benzylidenecyclohexanone, 2- (4 '-Hydroxybenzylidene) cyclohexanone, 2- (4'-dimethyl
  • CH-acidic compounds are generally considered to carry a bound to an aliphatic carbon atom hydrogen atom, wherein due to electron-withdrawing substituents activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond is effected.
  • CH-acidic compounds also include enamines which are formed by alkaline treatment of quaternized N-heterocycles with a CH-acidic alkyl group in conjugation with the quaternary nitrogen.
  • the CH-acidic compounds of component 2 are preferably selected from the group consisting of 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methylenindoline (Fischer's base), 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 2,3-dimethyl-naphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methylnaphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, rhodanine-3-acetic acid
  • Preferred primary or secondary aromatic amines of component 2 are selected from N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N-ethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2.5- Dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholinoaniline, 2-aminophenol, 3-aminophenol, 4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4- aminophenol, o-phenylenediamine, m-phen
  • R 7 represents a hydroxy or an amino group by C 4 alkyl, C 1-4 hydroxyalkyl, C 1-4 - alkoxy or C ⁇ alkoxy-C ⁇ alkyl groups may be substituted, .
  • R 8, R 9, R 10, R 11 and R 12 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy or an amino group substituted with Ci-C 4 alkyl, CVCj hydroxyalkyl, C 1 -C 4 -AIkOXy- , C 1 -C 4 - aminoalkyl or Ci-C ⁇ alkoxy-CrC ⁇ j alkyl groups may be substituted, stand, and
  • P is a direct bond, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by hydroxy groups carbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a carbonyl, sulfoxy, sulfonyl or imino group, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group having the formula IVa
  • Q signifies a direct bond, a CH 2 or CHOH group
  • Q 'and Q independently represent an oxygen atom, an NR 13 group, wherein R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1-4 alkyl or a hydroxy-C 1-4 alkyl group, both of which together with the remainder of the molecule 5-, 6- or 7-membered ring, means the group O- (CH 2 ) P -NH or NH- (CH 2 ) P -O, wherein p and p 'are 2 or 3, and
  • O is a number from 1 to 4,
  • the abovementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, in particular as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid.
  • Suitable nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds are, for. B. 2-aminopyridine, 3-aminopyridine, 4-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (aminoethylamino) -5-aminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-pyridine, 2-dimethylamino-5-amino-pyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,6- Dimethoxy-3,5-diamino-pyridine, 2,4,5-triamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethyl-pyridine, N- [2- (2,4-diaminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N- ( 5-amino-2-pyridyl) amine, N- [2- (4-a
  • heterocyclic compounds according to the invention can be used in DE-U1-299 08 573 disclosed hydroxypyrimidines.
  • the aforementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, for. B. as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid, are used.
  • Suitable aromatic hydroxy compounds are, for. 2-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, pyrocatechol, hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucinol, hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-methoxyphenol, 3-methoxyphenol, 4-methoxyphenol, 3 Dimethylaminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-phenylacetic acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2,4 , 6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxyace- tophenone, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3-
  • the compounds of component 1 and the compounds of component 2 are preferably used in the cosmetic compositions in each case in an amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, in particular from 1 to 40 mmol, based on 100 g of the total Nuancierstoffs used.
  • the molar ratio of the compound of component 1 and the compound of component 2 may range from 0.5 to 2.0, preferably using equimolar amounts.
  • the ready-to-use agent is prepared by separate mixing of components 1 and 2 immediately prior to application.
  • the at least one hydroxy or Amino group preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring, have. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.
  • Particularly suitable precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (Va),
  • R 1 is hydrogen, a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or a CVCVHydroxy-alkyl group
  • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, wherein the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group
  • R 4 is hydrogen, a C r C 4 alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a C 1 -C 4 -AlkVIgOiPPe, and R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 , and physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • indoline Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline,
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-Dihydroxyindolin.
  • R 1 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl group
  • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, wherein the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group
  • R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, and
  • R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 , as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, and especially the 5,6 -Dihydroxyindol.
  • Preferred substantive dyes which are used in the cosmetic compositions as color-modifying component are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds as well as 1 , 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenz
  • the cosmetic agents may contain a cationic substantive dye. Particularly preferred are
  • aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:
  • the compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5) which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c).
  • the cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ® are, according to the invention also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • the cosmetic compositions contain the substantive dyes preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the application ready means.
  • compositions according to the invention may also naturally occurring dyes such as henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, seder and alkano root are included.
  • naturally occurring dyes such as henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, seder and alkano root are included.
  • oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes it is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes to be in each case homogeneous compounds. Rather, in the cosmetic products, due to the production processes for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.
  • the actual oxidative colorant is prepared by separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before use by mixing.
  • the cosmetic agent is therefore mixed before application from a composition comprising at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetic carrier and a further composition containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the ready-to-use composition is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a composition containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-modifying ones Components, manufactured.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10.
  • At least one bleaching booster is preferably used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • Bleach boosters are preferably used in bleaching agents for increasing the bleaching action of the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide.
  • bleach amplifiers it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid.
  • Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups.
  • polyacylated alkylene diamines in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), 1- acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU) 1 N-acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5- diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.
  • TAED tetraacety
  • carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts can preferably be used according to the invention. These are preferably selected from the group of ammonium, alkali (especially sodium and potassium), and alkaline earth (especially calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Particularly preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate,
  • Sodium bicarbonate, disodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, dipotassium carbonate and calcium carbonate are particularly preferred salts. These particularly preferred salts can be used alone or in their mixtures of at least two representatives as bleaching amplifiers.
  • At least one carbonic acid monoester and / or at least one carbonic acid monoamide are preferably used in the process according to the invention.
  • Preferred carbonic acid monoesters are the carbonic acid monoesters of the formula (VI)
  • R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents.
  • Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably R is a Ci. 6- alkyl group.
  • IVCe-alkyl groups are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.
  • compositions particularly preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (VI) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl - As well as hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • carbonic acid monoamides can be used as bleach boosters in the anhydrous compositions.
  • R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents.
  • Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably R is a Ci. 6- alkyl group.
  • C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.
  • Particularly preferred bleach boosters according to the invention of the formula (VII) are characterized in that the radical R in formula (VII) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl , tert-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • the acidic H atom of the carbonic acid monoester or monoamide can also be present in neutralized form, ie according to the invention it is also possible to use salts of carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic acid monoamides.
  • At least one silyl carbonate and / or at least one silyl carbamate are preferably incorporated into the compositions according to the invention.
  • radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radical R 4 is a chemical bond to the Si atom or one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 or R 3 , is a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted SiIyI or Aluminylrios or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstit
  • Preferred radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals.
  • the alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferred anhydrous compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in formula (VIII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, fert-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Preferred radicals R 4 in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.
  • At least one silyl carbamate of the formula (IX) may be present in the anhydrous composition according to the invention.
  • radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radicals R 4 and R 5 independently of one another for a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 or R 3 , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted SiIyI or alumino group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or
  • Preferred radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in the abovementioned formula (IX) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals.
  • the alkyl groups having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl groups are preferred, so that compositions preferably used are characterized in that the groups R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in formula (IX) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n Propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Preferred radicals R 4 and R 5 in the abovementioned formula (IX) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.
  • bleach boosters in the compositions according to the invention preferably at least one compound selected from acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and ortho-phthalic acid may be contained.
  • Bleach amplifiers are preferably peroxo compounds.
  • the bleach-enhancing peroxy compounds according to the invention there are no addition products of hydrogen peroxide to other components and also not hydrogen peroxide itself.
  • the choice of peroxo compounds is subject to no restrictions.
  • Preferred peroxy compounds are peroxydisulfate salts, persulfate salts, (especially ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxydiphosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide).
  • peroxide isulfate, in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate.
  • the bleach boosters are contained in the cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 5-30 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 8-20 wt .-%.
  • the cosmetic compositions when acting as a bleaching agent, contain as preferred alkalizing agent at least one compound selected from ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarboxylates, metasilicates and carbamides, as well as alkali phosphates.
  • the cosmetic agents used in the process according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations:
  • the washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
  • the agents contain at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in the cosmetic compositions are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 C-men men. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C 8 -C 22 carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid ,
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R 1 O- (Z) x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R 1 contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R 1 .
  • these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
  • R 1 consists essentially of C 8 and C 10 -alkyl groups, essentially of C 12 and C 14 -alkyl groups, essentially of C 8 - to C-
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair.
  • This substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.
  • the alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO M or -SO 3 ' " group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the coco acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are to be understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 18 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and which are capable of forming internal salts are.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 12 - I8 - sarcosine.
  • the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.
  • cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM -2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • a suitable cationic surfactant quaternary sugar derivative is the commercial product Glucquat ® 100, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride”.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are mixtures of Homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts.
  • the use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • the cosmetic agents may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers,
  • dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers such as acrylamidopropyltrimidine methylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butyl
  • Structural agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
  • Protein hydrolysates in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, fiber structure-improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl -2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole, Light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and
  • Active ingredients such as allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol,
  • Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors in particular those of groups A, B 3 , B 5 , B 6 ,
  • Plant extracts such as extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel,
  • Spruce needle horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
  • Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • a third subject of the invention is a method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier is applied to the hair and rinsed from the hair after a contact time at the same time as or immediately after the application of the oxidative cosmetic agent to the sites treated with the oxidative cosmetic agent, a cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, an active ingredient (W) selected from at least one member of the group is made from compounds of formula (I)
  • R 1 is a C 2 to C 12 acyl group
  • R 2 is a C 2 to C 30 alkyl group
  • R 3 is a linear C 12 - to C 30 -alkyl group or a saturated or unsaturated ⁇ -
  • acyloxy (C 2 -C 30) alkyl group (such as preferably tricosanyl, Heptadecanyl or ⁇ - (octadeca-9,12-dien-oyloxy) -nonacosanyl) and
  • R 4 is a saturated or unsaturated C 15 -alkyl group or a saturated or unsaturated C 15 -hydroxyalkyl group (such as, for example, pentadeca-1 -ene-1-yl, 3
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 ,
  • Vitamin C and derivatives thereof and niacinamide is applied and rinsed off again after an exposure time.
  • the oxidative cosmetic agent and the cosmetic agent are applied to the hair of the head.
  • the exposure time of the active ingredient (W) is preferably 1 to 100 minutes, more preferably 5 to 50 minutes.
  • the method according to the invention in the context of an oxidative hair coloring, the oxidative hair bleaching or the fixation in the context of a permanent wave. It is preferred to apply the active ingredient (W) together with the oxidizing agent on the hair.
  • the active ingredient (W) is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor in one step in a cosmetic carrier. It is also preferred to use the active ingredient (W) immediately after rinsing the oxidative hair dye, for example in a conditioner.
  • the oxidative hair dyes of this embodiment are preferably two-component agents.
  • the first component contains in a cosmetic carrier the active ingredient (W) and at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • the second component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier.
  • These components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit).
  • the active ingredient (W) is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one bleaching booster in one step in a cosmetic carrier. It is also preferred to use the active ingredient (W) immediately after rinsing the oxidative hair dye, for example in a conditioner.
  • the means for carrying out the method according to the invention can be provided in a packaging unit.
  • the packaging unit may contain at least either a container containing the agent of the second subject of the invention or containing at least two containers, the first container containing the oxidative cosmetic agent and the second container containing the cosmetic agent containing the active ingredient (W).
  • the two Kontainer can also be as two chambers of a multi-chamber container.
  • Niacinamide (INCI name: Niacinamide)
  • SK-Influx ® (INCI name: Ceramide I) (Degussa Care Specialties)
  • Structurine ® (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein (Lupinus Albus) (Silab)
  • Calmosensine ® acetyl Dipeptide-1 cetyl ester active substance 1 wt .-%; (INCI name: Butylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Laureth-3, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester) (Sederma)
  • Caomint ® (INCI name: Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Mentha piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract) (Solabia)
  • Relipidum Ref ® (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Butylene Glycol, methyl paraben) (Coletica) Hydrenol D ® C 6 -C 18 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (Cognis Germany) Lorol ® techn. C 2 -C 18 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Coconut alcohol) (Cognis Germany) Eumulgin ® B1 Cetylstearylakohol with 12 EO units
  • the quantities are wt .-% based on the total weight of the Colorationscreme.
  • One of the coloration creams and the developer emulsion were mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 and the mixture was applied to a subject on the head hair. After an exposure time of 45 minutes, the hair was rinsed and dried.

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Abstract

Lors de l'utilisation de produits cosmétiques oxydatifs, la peau subit un stress. L'utilisation cosmétique d'au moins un représentant du groupe constitué par des composés de formule (I), dans laquelle R<SUP>1</SUP> représente un groupe acyle en C<SUB>2</SUB> à C<SUB>12</SUB> et R<SUP>2</SUP> un groupe alkyle en C<SUB>2</SUB> à C<SUB>30</SUB>, un extrait de Theobroma cacao, des composés de formule (II), dans laquelle R<SUP>3</SUP> représente un groupe alkyle linéaire en C<SUB>12</SUB> à C<SUB>30</SUB> ou un groupe ?-(acyloxy en C<SUB>12</SUB>-C<SUB>20</SUB>)-(alkyle en C<SUB>12</SUB>-C<SUB>30</SUB>) saturé ou insaturé (de préférence tricosanyle, heptadécanyle ou ?-(octadéca-9,12-diénoyloxy)nonacosanyle) et R<SUP>4 </SUP>représente un groupe alkyle en C<SUB>15</SUB> saturé ou insaturé ou un groupe hydroxyalkyle en C<SUB>15</SUB> saturé ou insaturé (par exemple pentadéca-1-én-1-yle, 3-hydroxypentadéca-1-én-1-yle, 1-hydroxypentadécanyle), un extrait de levure hydrolysé, une protéine de lupin hydrolysée, en particulier de Lupinus albus, un extrait de romarin, un extrait de Castanea sativa, un extrait de feuilles de Mentha piperita, un ester d'alkyle en C<SUB>8</SUB> à C<SUB>30</SUB> de N-(acyle en C<SUB>8</SUB>-C<SUB>30</SUB>)-4-hydroxyproline, du cholestérol, des composés de formule (III), dans laquelle R<SUP>1</SUP>, R<SUP>2</SUP> et R<SUP>3</SUP> représentent indépendamment les uns des autres un atome d'hydrogène ou un résidu -CH<SUB>3</SUB>, -CH<SUB>2</SUB>CH<SUB>3</SUB>, -CH(CH<SUB>3</SUB>)<SUB>2</SUB>, -CH<SUB>2</SUB>CH<SUB>2</SUB>CH<SUB>3</SUB>, -CH(CH<SUB>3</SUB>)CH<SUB>2</SUB>CH<SUB>3</SUB>, -CH<SUB>2</SUB>CH(CH<SUB>3</SUB>)<SUB>2,</SUB> -C(CH<SUB>3</SUB>)<SUB>3</SUB>, n vaut 1 ou 2, de l'acide linolique, de la vitamine C et ses dérivés, et du niacinamide offre à l'utilisateur de produits de traitement capillaire oxydatifs la possibilité de réduire ce stress, de calmer la peau et notamment de minimiser la sécheresse cutanée et les démangeaisons. L'invention concerne également un procédé correspondant pour calmer la peau, ainsi que les agents utilisables dans ce procédé.
EP07703177A 2006-02-21 2007-02-01 Traitement oxydatif du cheveu calmant pour la peau Withdrawn EP1986596A1 (fr)

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DE102006060944A DE102006060944A1 (de) 2006-02-21 2006-12-20 Hautberuhigende oxidative Haarbehandlung
PCT/EP2007/000841 WO2007096045A1 (fr) 2006-02-21 2007-02-01 Traitement oxydatif du cheveu calmant pour la peau

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DE102007048140A1 (de) 2007-10-05 2009-04-09 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Oxidative Haarbehandlung mit verringerter Haarschädigung
EP2246036A1 (fr) * 2009-04-27 2010-11-03 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de nettoyage aqueux
EP2246097A1 (fr) * 2009-04-27 2010-11-03 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de blanchiment
EP2246098A1 (fr) 2009-04-27 2010-11-03 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de coloration
DE102012111772A1 (de) * 2012-12-04 2014-06-05 Gerti Kiermayer Verfahren zum Blondieren von Haaren und Blondierungszusammensetzung
DE102015221460B4 (de) 2015-11-03 2022-11-10 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Dauerwellverfahren mit verbesserter Pflegeleistung und Wellwirkung
CN109758380B (zh) * 2019-03-26 2022-02-11 赵军 一种含生物质色素或色素前体的头发染色剂

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WO1998007744A1 (fr) * 1996-08-23 1998-02-26 Sederma S.A. Peptides synthetiques et leur utilisation dans les compositions cosmetiques ou dermopharmaceutiques
GB0120006D0 (en) * 2001-08-16 2001-10-10 Boots Co Plc Hair dye compositions
DE102004017376A1 (de) * 2004-04-08 2005-11-10 Braun Gmbh Vorbehandlungsmittel für eine Epilation
DE102004050561A1 (de) * 2004-10-15 2006-04-27 Henkel Kgaa Farb- oder formverändernde Faserbehandlungsmittel mit Wirkstoffen zur Stimulierung der Beta-Endorphinausschüttung in Keratinozyten

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