EP1978840B1 - Adjuvant pour le changement de couleur tendance de fibres kératiniques - Google Patents

Adjuvant pour le changement de couleur tendance de fibres kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1978840B1
EP1978840B1 EP07702713.4A EP07702713A EP1978840B1 EP 1978840 B1 EP1978840 B1 EP 1978840B1 EP 07702713 A EP07702713 A EP 07702713A EP 1978840 B1 EP1978840 B1 EP 1978840B1
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Prior art keywords
hole
amino
marking
bis
und
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP1978840A1 (fr
Inventor
Emilie Elberg
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/18Hair-colouring caps
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/0041Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
    • A45D19/0066Coloring or bleaching
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/012Devices for colouring or bleaching separated strands of hair, e.g. highlighting

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of dyeing human hair, in which a few strands of the hair are selectively selected using a film with a marked pattern of holes and then subjected to a color change with a color-changing agent. Furthermore, a packaging unit (kit) containing at least color-changing agent, as well as said cover film and a head cover made therefrom is the subject of the invention.
  • the developer components are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used ,
  • coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenols are generally used. Particularly suitable as coupler substances are 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1-phenyl 3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl 3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol and 2-methyl-4-chloro-5
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that grow directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much more undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much more quickly.
  • bleaching agents For brightening keratin-containing fibers so-called bleaching agents are used.
  • the latter contain oxidizing agents which oxidatively act on the natural hair dye melanin and optionally on synthetic fibers present in the fiber and thereby cause a color change and optimally a lightening of the hair color.
  • the fundamentals of the bleaching and oxidative dyeing processes are known to the person skilled in the art and are described in relevant monographs, eg by K. Schrader, Basics and Formulations of Cosmetics, 2nd edition, 1989, Dr. med. Alfred Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg , or W. Umbach (ed.), Cosmetics, 2nd edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, New York , summarized.
  • the fashion conscious consumer either seeks a hairdresser to perform a cosmetic color change of his hair, or will himself make the color change of his hair by self-application of the color changing agents.
  • Self-application places high demands on the consumer, in particular, when selected areas of the hair are to be changed in color. This is the case in particular with a highlight application.
  • Problems with the application of highlights often have a visible effect on the inhomogeneity in the dense density and thus negatively on the overall impression of the staining result.
  • the coloring results are not harmonious and unprofessional.
  • a harmonious picture of a streaks hairstyle offers the viewer if and when the color accentuated highlights are evenly distributed over the entire head hair area.
  • a particularly effective aid for self-application is provided by the use of a covering foil of the scalp hair, which is used in particular in the form of a so-called highlighting cap.
  • the cover foil has a hole grid distributed over the surface of the foil or the hood.
  • Another aid in the form of a crochet hook (“Strähnchenzieher") hair strands are pulled through the holes of the hood. These strands of hair are then changed in color using a suitable cosmetic agent.
  • a highlight cap according to the preamble of claim 1 is known from US 4,357,951 known.
  • the application of the Strähnchenhaube especially during self-application is not without disadvantages. The consumer finds it extremely problematic that the holes in the cover foil with the Strähnchenzieher are untargeted only by tasting.
  • the consumer should be able to uniformly determine the density of the strands over the entire head hair area.
  • the time required for the implementation should also be reduced by a new technique. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a time-saving method which enables the user, in particular in the context of self-application, to uniformly select highlights over the entire scalp area and to change them in color.
  • the final result should be a homogeneous and harmonious color change whose intensity of the highlighting look can be adjusted by deliberately influencing the density of the strands over the entire head hair area. It has now surprisingly been found that the user comes in a shorter time to a correspondingly improved color change result when the cover sheet according to the invention is used.
  • a row of holes is defined according to the invention as a set of holes extending along an imaginary line either from one point on one edge of the cover sheet along the surface of the cover sheet to another point on an edge of the cover sheet, and / or along the circumference of concentric Triangles, squares, pentagons, etc., to circles or ellipsoids that line up around the point on the surface of the cover sheet. It is inventively preferred if this imaginary line is straight.
  • an edge marks the end of the surface of the cover sheet.
  • a preferred direction is to be understood as meaning a direction along the imaginary line of a row of holes.
  • the holes are preferably round.
  • the holes of the breadboard preferably have a diameter of 0.1 to 1.25 mm, in particular from 0.1 to 0.75 mm.
  • the hole spacing is determined from the center of the hole to the center of the adjacent hole along the row of holes.
  • the hole spacing of adjacent holes along the row of holes is preferably in the range of 5 to 20 mm.
  • each hole row of the hole pattern all adjacent holes have an equidistant hole spacing. It is again preferred if the amount of the distance between two adjacent holes along one of the two rows of holes 1 or 2 is a product of the distance between two adjacent holes along the respective other row of holes with an integer greater than zero.
  • the proportion of the holes having the hole markings a to the holes with the hole markings b on the surface of the cover sheet is preferably in the range of 1: 1.4 to 1: 1.7. This ratio is particularly preferably 1: 1.5.
  • the ratio of the holes with the hole markings a to the holes with the hole markings c on the surface of the cover sheet is preferably in the range of 2.2: 1 to 1.8: 1. More preferably, this ratio is 2 to 1.
  • the ratio of the holes with the hole markings a to the holes with the hole markings b to the holes with the hole markings c on the surface of the cover sheet is most preferably 2 to 3 to 1.
  • the hole markings are marked. They may be used as visible markers in various shapes (such as square, circle, cross, grid and star) and / or markers of different colors as hole markings. Preferably, markers of different colors, such as red, green and blue, are used as the hole marking. These markers are in turn preferably applied as a border of the hole on the film, for example by printing or gluing. Likewise, tactile markings (haptic markings) can be attached. As haptic markings are located on the hole area localized elevations or subsidence of the film surface, such as embossed or glued or welded nubs, grooves, cones or balls. In this case, each hole identification a, b and c each assign a haptic marking. In particular, such haptic markings are favorable if the consumer wants to place the highlights on areas which are difficult to see even with a mirror, such as e.g. the back of the head.
  • a hole designation sequence "hole mark a / hole mark b / hole mark a" of the hole row 1 and hole mark string "hole mark b / hole mark c / hole mark b" of the immediately following hole row 2 form opposite sides of a quadrangle having no hole in the face thereof with hole marking is none of the inner corner of the corner Rectangle is less than 45 °.
  • the hole marking order reads in the rectangle clockwise or counterclockwise along the circumference "hole mark a / hole mark b / hole mark a / hole mark b / hole mark c / hole mark b".
  • the square formed is preferably a rectangle. It is preferred if at least 80% of the area of the entire perforated grid, particularly preferably at least 90% of the area of the entire perforated grid, is built up from said quadrangles.
  • the rows of holes are arranged in parallel. It is preferred if the rows of holes have the same distance from each other. Most preferably, in the context of this particular embodiment, the spacings of the adjacent holes along each row of holes and the distances of the rows of holes are the same.
  • FIGS. 5 and 6 Examples of sections of cover films with inventive hole grid are the FIGS. 5 and 6 refer to.
  • the hole marking a corresponds to the star * in these figures.
  • the hole marking b corresponds to the plus sign + in these figures.
  • the hole designation c in these figures corresponds to the grid symbol #.
  • FIG. 5 describes a row of holes a wave motion.
  • the hole rich 1 and 2 are parallel to each other.
  • FIG. 6 describes a row of holes a straight line.
  • the hole rich 1 and 2 are parallel to each other.
  • hole designation sequences "hole mark a / hole mark b / hole mark a” and hole mark string "hole mark b / hole mark c / hole mark b" in figures 5 and 6 form the sides of a rectangle, clockwise or counterclockwise along its circumference, the hole marking sequence "Hole mark a / Hole mark b / Hole mark a / Hole mark b / Hole mark c / Hole mark b".
  • the cover sheets are preferably made of materials compatible with cosmetic color changing agents, such as polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride. It is possible to manufacture the cover film in one layer or in multiple layers, that is to say from two or more superposed film layers.
  • a multilayer embodiment of the cover film preferably consists of two film layers. These film layers are preferably glued, knurled, sewn or welded along the edges. According to a two-layer embodiment, one of the film layers preferably has no prefabricated holes. The other film layer carries the already pre-punched hole pattern.
  • the hole marking can be applied both on the film layer with hole pattern, as well as on the film layer without pre-punched Be mounted hole pattern, the hole markings are preferably mounted on the foil layer with the pre-punched hole pattern.
  • a second object of the invention is a head covering for covering human hair in the form of a hood, which contains at least one cover sheet of the first subject of the invention.
  • the said cover sheet in particular occupies the part of the hood which comes into contact with the head hair in use.
  • the hood preferably has the shape of a shuttle or a helmet. Particularly preferred is the helmet shape.
  • the hood includes two side parts (1) and (2) and a central part (3) and optionally a screen part (4). These parts are preferably interconnected at their contact points by a welded and / or stitched seam (8) and (9).
  • the seams and the outer edges of the parts (1), (2), (3) and (4) are preferably hemmed with a seam.
  • the seam is preferably made of the material of the outer film.
  • At least the parts (1), (2) and (3) of the hood are made of the (preferably two-ply) cover sheet of the first subject of the invention. If it is the two-layer embodiment, preferably the outer film layer has a pre-punched hole pattern, the inner film layer has no holes.
  • Both superimposed film layers are connected to each other by the seam of the parts (1), (2) and (3), as well as the other by the seam.
  • the hood when pulled over the head, covers the back of the head and has an opening for the face in front (see Fig. 2 , the "front view").
  • the screen part (4) is attached at the upper part of the field of view.
  • the outer edge of the parts (1), (2) and (3) and optionally the edge of the screen part are bordered by a seam as described above.
  • the hem can be extended beyond the edge of the hood at the lower part of the visual field and forms the bands (5) and (6) on the right and left with which the hood can be attached to the head by knotting the bands together under the chin.
  • 2 and FIG. 4 show an elastic (7), which along the lower edge of the central part (3) can be incorporated.
  • the elastic band ensures a tight fit of the hood.
  • the hood adapts better with the help of the elastic to different head sizes.
  • step B fiber bundles or hair strands, for example, are pulled through the holes of the hood with a streak puller.
  • a sharper contrast transition is achieved when the hair is dry and the color-changing agent is applied to the dry hair in step C.
  • the highlights are treated in step C either completely or partially with the color change agent.
  • Full treatment will result in completely color changed highlights.
  • the fiber tips or other selected regions of the fiber bundle can be selectively nuanced.
  • the color-changing agent is preferably applied to the selected fiber strands with the hands using suitable protective gloves for complete treatment.
  • the color-changing agent can also be applied to the highlights provided for shading with an applicator, such as a brush or a brush, in particular if a partial color change is desired.
  • the reaction time Z1 is preferably 5 to 60 minutes, more preferably 20 to 45 minutes.
  • the color-changing agent contains at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the color change agent used in the invention contains a cosmetic carrier.
  • a cosmetic carrier are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair.
  • the carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • An aqueous carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the color-changing agents may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • developer components are usually primary aromatic amines with another, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or Amino group, Diaminopyridinderivate, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radicals mentioned as substituents in the compounds according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals.
  • C 1 -C 4 -alkoxy radicals preferred according to the invention are, for example, a methoxy or an ethoxy group.
  • a C 1 to C 4 hydroxyalkyl group there may be mentioned a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl or a 4-hydroxybutyl group. A 2-hydroxyethyl group is especially prefers.
  • a particularly preferred C 2 to C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1,2-dihydroxyethyl group.
  • halogen atoms in the present invention F, Cl - or Br atoms, chlorine atoms are particularly preferred.
  • the other terms used are derived according to the invention from the definitions given here.
  • nitrogen-containing groups of the formula (Ent1) are especially the amino groups, C 1 - to C 4 monoalkylamino, C 1 -C 4 -dialkylamino, C 1 - to C 4 -Trialkylammonium distribution, C 1 - to C 4 -Monohydroxyalkylamino perception, Imidazolinium and ammonium.
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines of the formula (Ent1) are selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2 , 6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4 -Amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2- methylaniline, 4-N, N-
  • Very particular preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (Ent1) according to the invention are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and N, N bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • Preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (Ent2) are in particular: N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis - ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) -ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methan
  • Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (Ent2) are N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane and 1,10-bis- (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (Ent3) are, in particular, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4 -Amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino 2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2 -chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol and their physiological
  • Very particularly preferred compounds of the formula (Ent3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ , p-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino 2- (diethylaminomethyl) -phenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components such as the pyridine, pyrimidine, pyrazole, pyrazole pyrimidine derivatives and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyridine derivatives are in particular the compounds described in the Patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196 such as 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2- ( ⁇ -methoxyethyl) -amino-3 amino-6-methoxy-pyridine and 3,4-diamino-pyridine.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds described in the German patent DE 2 359 399 , the Japanese Patent Application JP 02019576 A2 or in the published patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds described in the Patents DE 3 843 892 . DE 4 133 957 and Patent Applications WO 94/08969 . WO 94/08970 .
  • EP-740 931 and DE 195 43 988 such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3 dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-
  • pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (Ent4) can be prepared as described in the literature by cyclization starting from an aminopyrazole or from hydrazine.
  • m-phenylenediamine derivatives naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives and heterocyclic compounds are generally used.
  • coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol , 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
  • the color-changing agents preferably contain the developer components in an amount of 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the entire color-changing agent.
  • the color-changing agents contain the coupler components preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the entire color-changing agent.
  • Component A is preferably selected from the group formed from acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropiophenone, 4-hydroxypropiophenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3 Hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxy-acetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxy-acetophenone, 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-dihydroxyacetophenone Trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone diethyl ketal, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-acetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4-dimethylamin
  • CH-acidic compounds are generally considered to carry a bound to an aliphatic carbon atom hydrogen atom, wherein due to electron-withdrawing substituents activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond is effected.
  • CH-acidic compounds are also according to the invention Enamines formed by the alkaline treatment of quaternized N-heterocycles with a CH-acidic alkyl group in conjugation to the quaternary nitrogen.
  • the CH-acidic compounds of component B are preferably selected from the group consisting of 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methylenindoline (Fischer's base), 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 2,3-dimethyl-naphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methyl-naphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, rhodanine-3-acetic
  • the abovementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, in particular as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid.
  • Suitable nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds are, for. B. 2-aminopyridine, 3-aminopyridine, 4-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (aminoethylamino) -5-aminopyridine, 2, 3-diamino-pyridine, 2-dimethylamino-5-aminopyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5- diamino-pyridine, 2,4,5-triamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethyl-pyridine, N- [2- (2,4-diaminophenyl) -amino-ethyl] -N- (5-amino-2-) pyridyl) amine, N- [2-
  • heterocyclic compounds according to the invention in the DE-U1-299 08 573 disclosed hydroxypyrimidines can be used.
  • the aforementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, for. B. as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid, are used.
  • Suitable aromatic hydroxy compounds are, for. 2-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, pyrocatechol, hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucinol, hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-methoxyphenol, 3-methoxyphenol, 4-methoxyphenol, 3- Dimethylaminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-phenylacetic acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3-di
  • the compounds of the component A and the compounds of the component B are preferably used in the color-changing agent each in an amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, especially from 1 to 40 mmol, based on 100 g of the total color-changing agent.
  • the molar ratio of the compound of component A and the compound of component B may range from 0.5 to 2.0, preferably using equimolar amounts.
  • the actual color-changing agent is prepared by separate mixing of components A and B immediately before use.
  • the color changing agents contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-Dihydroxyindolin.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, and especially the 5,6 -Dihydroxyindol.
  • Preferred substantive dyes which are used as color-modifying components are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds as well as 1 , 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:
  • the compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5) which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c).
  • the cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • the color changing agents preferably contain the direct dyes in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight based on the color change agent ready for use.
  • preparations of the invention may also naturally occurring dyes such as henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and alkano root are included.
  • oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes it is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes to be in each case homogeneous compounds. Rather, in the compositions according to the invention, due to the production process for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.
  • an oxidative dyeing can be carried out in the presence of atmospheric oxygen in the presence of oxidation dye precursors.
  • a chemical oxidizing agent is used, especially if, in addition to the coloring, a whitening effect of the natural pigments of the human hair is desired. This lightening effect may be desired regardless of the staining method. Accordingly, the presence of oxidation dye precursors is not a mandatory requirement for the use of oxidizing agents in the cosmetic compositions of the process according to the invention.
  • the oxidizing agent is in particular hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone ⁇ n H 2 O 2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and Melamine peroxide in question.
  • the actual colorant is prepared by separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before use by mixing. In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, therefore, the color-changing agent before application of a composition containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color-changing component, and another A composition containing at least one oxidizing agent mixed in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the actual (oxidative) hair dye is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a separate oxidizer composition with the composition containing the color-changing components, preferably in the weight ratio range of 1 to 4 to 4 to 1, especially 1 to 2 to 2 to 1.
  • the colorant may also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which promotes the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated.
  • catalysts are e.g. Metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes.
  • the catalysts can also be used in the presence of an oxidizing agent.
  • Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ . Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • the metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • the ready-to-use composition is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a composition containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-changing components.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 12. Particularly preferred is the use of the colorants in a weakly alkaline medium.
  • At least one bleach booster is additionally preferably used in addition to the oxidizing agents.
  • Bleach boosters are preferably used in bleaching agents for increasing the bleaching action of the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide.
  • bleach amplifiers it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid.
  • Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups.
  • polyacylated alkylenediamines in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N- Acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy- 2,5-dihydrofuran.
  • TAED tetraacet
  • Bleach amplifiers are preferably peroxo compounds.
  • the bleach-enhancing peroxy compounds according to the invention there are no addition products of hydrogen peroxide to other components and also not hydrogen peroxide itself.
  • the choice of peroxo compounds is subject to no restrictions.
  • Preferred peroxo compounds are peroxydisulfate salts, monopersulfate salts (especially ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium monopersulfate, potassium monopersulfate, sodium monopersulfate, potassium peroxydiphosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide, calcium peroxide and magnesium peroxide).
  • the inorganic compounds are preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate.
  • the bleach boosters are contained in the ready-to-use color-change agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 5-30% by weight, in particular in amounts of 8-20% by weight.
  • the color-changing agents of the process of the present invention when acting as a bleaching agent, contain as preferred alkalizing agent at least one compound selected from ammonia, ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarbonates, metasilicates and carbamides, as well as Alkali phosphates and alkanolamines such as 2-ethanolamine.
  • the ready-to-use color-changing agent should preferably have a pH in the range from pH 6 to pH 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to pH 11, in the embodiment as dyeing or bleaching agent.
  • the color-changing agents may additionally contain all known and commonly used active ingredients and auxiliaries in these fields.
  • the color-changing agents additionally contain at least one surfactant, whereby in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C 8 -C 22 carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid ,
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R 1 O- (Z) x ' These compounds are characterized by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R 1 contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R 1 .
  • these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and Sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair.
  • this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.
  • alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (-) or -SO 3 (-) group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 18 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12-18 acylsarcosine.
  • the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
  • cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.
  • cationic silicone oils such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (Manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80.).
  • Q2-7224 manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone
  • Dow Corning 929 emulsion containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones
  • SM-2059 Manufacturer: General Electric
  • SLM-55067 manufactured by Wacker
  • Glucquat ® 100 is, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride”.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • the color-changing agent is preferably present as a two-component product in two containers C1a and C1b in the kit. If it is an oxidative colorant, container C1a contains the so-called coloring cream, which contains the oxidation dye precursors in a cosmetic carrier, and a hydrogen peroxide-containing composition is stored in container 1b. If it is a staining agent of the oxo staining, the compounds of component A can be stored separately in container C1a and the compounds of component B in container C1b.
  • the containers C1a and C1b may be two separate containers or different chambers within a two- or multi-chamber container, for example a multi-chamber tube, a multi-chamber aerosol can or a multi-chamber bottle. Such containers are known to those skilled in the art. During the removal process from a multi-chamber container, a mixture of the respective contents of the individual chambers can take place before or after the outlet of the contents from said container.
  • the kit of the invention may additionally comprise a container C2 containing a conditioning agent.
  • the kit may additionally contain a use instruction which prescribes the use of the kit according to the method of the third subject of the invention.
  • kit can also optionally contain application aids, mixing bowls or protective gloves.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Claims (10)

  1. Film de revêtement qui comporte une trame de perforations, réparties sur la surface du film, dans laquelle les perforations sont disposés selon des rangées de perforations 1 et des rangées de perforations 2 alternées, chaque perforation de la trame de perforation du film de revêtement étant caractérisée de façon visible et/ou palpable au moyen d'un repère de perforation, choisi parmi un total de trois repères de perforation différents a, b et c, caractérisé en ce que
    la rangée de perforations 1 contient le long d'une direction préférée à au moins 80% une succession récurrente de repères de perforation « repère de perforation a/repère de perforation b/repère de perforation a/repère de perforation b/repère de perforation c »
    et
    la rangée de perforations 2 contient le long de la même direction préférentielle à au moins 80% une succession récurrente de repères de perforation « repère de perforation a/repère de perforation b/repère de perforation a/repère de perforation b/repère de perforation c ».
  2. Film de revêtement selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que, le long de chaque rangée de perforations de la trame de perforations, toutes les perforations adjacentes sont espacées de façon équidistante.
  3. Film de revêtement selon l'une des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que des perforations adjacentes le long de la rangée de perforations présentent un espacement de préférence dans la gamme de 5 à 20 mm.
  4. Film de revêtement selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que le rapport quantitatif perforations ayant les repères de perforation a sur perforations avec les repères de perforation b sur la surface du film de revêtement est dans la gamme allant de 1:1,4 à 1:1,7, et en particulier est de 1:1,5.
  5. Film de revêtement selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que le rapport quantitatif perforations avec les repères de perforations a sur perforations ayant les repères de perforation c sur la surface du film de revêtement est dans la gamme allant de 2,2:1 à 1,8:1, en particulier est de 2:1.
  6. Film revêtement selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce qu'une succession de repères de perforation « repère de perforation a/repère de perforation b/repère de perforation a » de la rangée de perforations 1 et une succession de repères de perforation « repère de perforation b/repère de perforation b/repère de perforation b » de la rangée immédiatement suivante 2 forment des côtés opposés d'un quadrilatère dont la surface ne comporte aucune perforation ayant un repère de perforation, aucun angle de coin intérieur du quadrilatère étant inférieur à 45°.
  7. Couvre-tête destiné à couvrir des cheveux humains sous la forme d'un bonnet, qui comprend au moins un film de revêtement selon l'une des revendications 1 à 7.
  8. Couvre-tête selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que le bonnet contient deux parties latérales (1) et (2) et une partie centrale (3) et éventuellement une partie formant écran (4).
  9. Procédé de coloration de cheveux humains, dans lequel,
    A dans une première étape, les cheveux sont recouverts avec un couvre-tête selon l'une des revendications 7 ou 8,
    B puis des mèches de cheveux sont tirées à travers des perforations repérées,
    C une composition de changement de couleur est appliquée sur les mèches de cheveux et est rincée à nouveau après un temps d'action Z1,
    D le couvre-tête est retiré,
    dans l'étape B
    (i) les mèches de cheveux sont tirées principalement à travers des perforations ayant le repère de perforation c pour obtenir une faible densité de mèches,
    (ii) les mèches de cheveux sont tirées principalement à travers des perforations ayant le repère de perforation a pour obtenir une densité de mèches moyenne,
    (iii) les mèches de cheveux sont tirées principalement à travers des perforations ayant le repère de perforation b pour obtenir une densité de mèches élevée.
  10. Kit comprenant
    • au moins un récipient C1 contenant une composition de changement de couleur et
    • au moins un couvre-chef selon la revendication 7 ou 8.
EP07702713.4A 2006-02-01 2007-01-12 Adjuvant pour le changement de couleur tendance de fibres kératiniques Not-in-force EP1978840B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102006004958A DE102006004958A1 (de) 2006-02-01 2006-02-01 Hilfsmittel zur modischen Farbveränderung keratinhaltiger Fasern
PCT/EP2007/000240 WO2007087978A1 (fr) 2006-02-01 2007-01-12 Adjuvant pour le changement de couleur tendance de fibres keratiniques

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EP1978840B1 true EP1978840B1 (fr) 2016-07-06

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DE102015226171A1 (de) 2015-12-21 2017-06-22 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zur multitonalen Farbveränderung keratinischer Fasern
DE102015226170A1 (de) 2015-12-21 2017-06-22 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Geruchsreduzierte Blondierung mit flüssiger Strähnenfolie

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US3390689A (en) * 1965-03-24 1968-07-02 Newman Martin Arrangement for treating hair
US4020854A (en) * 1975-05-21 1977-05-03 Lorenzo Caruso Device and method for programmed hair coloring
US4357951A (en) * 1977-07-15 1982-11-09 Aricco Ronald A Frosting or tipping cap for varying intensity of treatment

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