EP1927690A2 - Method for manufacturing tone-in-tone fabric for outerwear damask and outerwear damask fabric - Google Patents
Method for manufacturing tone-in-tone fabric for outerwear damask and outerwear damask fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP1927690A2 EP1927690A2 EP07016446A EP07016446A EP1927690A2 EP 1927690 A2 EP1927690 A2 EP 1927690A2 EP 07016446 A EP07016446 A EP 07016446A EP 07016446 A EP07016446 A EP 07016446A EP 1927690 A2 EP1927690 A2 EP 1927690A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- tone
- outerwear
- rainbow
- damask
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
- D06B11/0079—Local modifications of the ability of the textile material to receive the treating materials, (e.g. its dyeability)
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
Definitions
- the invention relates to a process for the production of clay-in-tone fabric for outerwear damask and an outerwear damask fabric.
- the known fabrics thus has the disadvantage that they are very expensive to produce by the use of warp chains or in the printing an additional operation is necessary to achieve colored and / or tone-on-tone fabric.
- the use of colored yarn and the printing processes require considerable time-advance, in which customer wishes and fashion trends can already change. On color individual customer requests can not be entered after the order has been placed. Processing of very small quantities is not possible. Even when printing a thread-accurate pattern can not be produced.
- the object of the invention is both a process for the production of clay-in-tone fabric for outerwear damask, in which from the monochrome fabric produced by a known weaving process with minimal technical effort, even in the smallest batches and regardless of the weaving location, colored clay in-tone fabric, as well as a dyeable outerwear damask fabric.
- the advantage of the invention is that, by using different rainbow cotton yarns of different color affinity, monochrome fabrics can be made which produce a multicolor fabric by a single subsequent dyeing operation.
- a multi-colored color combination and color intensity can be freely selected, this being determined by the consumer himself, whereby a great flexibility is achieved.
- the production of warp with cotton yarns and the rainbow yarns with different ink receptivity is generally done in a typical textile fashion in the Zettelei and in the sizing shop together.
- the different dyeing effects of the rainbow yarns arise from the fact that conventional cotton yarns are pretreated so differently that they subsequently have a different color affinity ie, that these pretreated cotton yarns, the Rainbow yarns, absorb the dye at different levels of dyeing.
- the selected rainbow yarns are read in according to the pattern for the weaving process in the warp direction.
- the processing as shot material takes place in accordance with the predetermined shot sequence of the design.
- cotton raw yarns and rainbow cotton yarns with different dyeing properties are interwoven with each other as a warp, a weft or in combination as a warp and weft in a conventional textile processing process known per se.
- the rainbow cotton yarns and their number are selected according to the desired design. At least one rainbow cotton yarn must be present to achieve different color depths and shading. In this case, when dyed with a single color, a two-tone tone-on-tone outerwear damask fabric would result. If a four-tone tone-on-tone outerwear damask fabric is desired, then one untreated cotton yarn and three rainbow cotton yarns should be used.
- the weaving process is typical of textiles weaving on einbäumig or einbäumig looms.
- the number of warp beams used depends on the proportions and the pattern of cotton yarns and rainbow yarns.
- the subsequent textile finishing is carried out with the known processes of singeing, bleaching, washing with the withdrawal of the marking ink, mercerizing, optically lightening, finishing, calendering and presentation.
- the fabric can already be used here as white goods.
- the different colored properties of the Rainbow yarns are not yet recognizable at this stage.
- a different base color can be dyed for each part, with numerous shades corresponding to the intensity of the dyeing liquor and the different properties of the Rainbow yarns.
- the finished white outerwear damask fabric is dyed with the basic color "blue".
- 1 cotton thread and 3 Rainbow yarns were processed.
- Cotton thread Light Blue Rainbow Yarn 1: dark blue Rainbow yarn 2: schblau Rainbow Yarn 3: fliederblau
- the finished white outerwear damask fabric is dyed with the base color "red".
- 1 cotton thread and 4 Rainbow yarns were processed.
- Cotton thread rose Rainbow Yarn 1: bordeaurot Rainbow yarn 2: blood-red Rainbow Yarn 3: light red Rainbow Yarn 4: purple
- Any number of different and / or differently pretreated Rainbow yarns can be used, depending on which design is to be designed.
- the piece size of the outerwear damask fabric to be dyed is completely arbitrary, even the smallest batches can be dyed independently of the weaving site.
- the fabric according to the invention for outerwear damask thus consists in the variety of the combination of cotton yarns with various rainbow yarns in warp and weft and the variety of color approaches in the piece dyeing, which can be addressed immediately to the individual color requirements of the end user and also to desired minimum quantities.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Die Erfindung betrifft ein Verfahren zur Herstellung von Ton-in-Ton-Gewebe für Oberbekleidungsdamast und ein Oberbekleidungsdamastgewebe.The invention relates to a process for the production of clay-in-tone fabric for outerwear damask and an outerwear damask fabric.
Es ist üblich, mehrfarbige Gewebe dadurch herzustellen, dass verschiedenfarbige Baumwollgarne und/oder Zwirne derart verwebt werden, dass ein gewünschtes Farb- und Gewebemuster entsteht. Dazu muss vor dem Weben exakt festgelegt werden, welches Muster oder Design in welchen Farben in welcher Menge hergestellt werden soll und es sind entsprechende Programme zu entwickeln.It is common to make multicolor fabrics by interweaving differently colored cotton yarns and / or threads to form a desired color and fabric pattern. For this purpose, it must be determined exactly before weaving, which pattern or design in which colors in which quantity should be produced and there are appropriate programs to develop.
Auch ist es üblich, einfarbige Gewebe herzustellen und das gewünschte Muster mehrfarbig aufzudrucken. Das Bedrucken der Gewebestücke bedeutet einen zusätzlichen Arbeitsgang. Es ist dabei auch notwendig, eine große Menge verschiedener Muster zu drucken ohne zu wissen, welche Farbmuster am meisten verkauft werden.It is also common to produce monochromatic fabric and print the desired pattern multicolored. The printing of the pieces of fabric means an additional operation. It is also necessary to print a large amount of different patterns without knowing which color samples are sold the most.
Den bekannten Geweben haftet also der Nachteil an, dass sie in der Herstellung durch den Einsatz von Schärketten sehr aufwendig sind oder in der Druckerei ein zusätzlicher Arbeitsgang notwendig ist, um farbige und/oder Ton-in-Ton-Gewebe zu erzielen. Der Farbgarneinsatz und die Druckverfahren erfordern erhebliche Zeitvorläufe, in denen sich Kundenwünsche und Modetrends bereits ändern können. Auf farblich individuelle Kundenwünsche kann nach erfolgter Auftragserteilung nicht mehr eingegangen werden. Eine Bearbeitung von Kleinstmengen ist nicht möglich. Auch ist bei Druck eine fadengenaue Musterung nicht herstellbar.The known fabrics thus has the disadvantage that they are very expensive to produce by the use of warp chains or in the printing an additional operation is necessary to achieve colored and / or tone-on-tone fabric. The use of colored yarn and the printing processes require considerable time-advance, in which customer wishes and fashion trends can already change. On color individual customer requests can not be entered after the order has been placed. Processing of very small quantities is not possible. Even when printing a thread-accurate pattern can not be produced.
Aufgabe der Erfindung ist sowohl ein Verfahren zur Herstellung von Ton-in-Ton-Gewebe für Oberbekleidungsdamast, bei dem aus dem durch einen an sich bekannten Webprozess hergestellten einfarbigen Gewebe mit geringstem technischen Aufwand, auch in kleinsten Chargen und unabhängig vom Webort, farbiges Ton-in-Ton-Gewebe hergestellt werden kann, als auch ein färbbares Oberbekleidungsdamastgewebe.The object of the invention is both a process for the production of clay-in-tone fabric for outerwear damask, in which from the monochrome fabric produced by a known weaving process with minimal technical effort, even in the smallest batches and regardless of the weaving location, colored clay in-tone fabric, as well as a dyeable outerwear damask fabric.
Erfindungsgemäß wird die Aufgabe durch die Merkmale des Hauptanspruchs gelöst. Ausgestaltungen der Erfindung sind in den Unteransprüchen dargestellt.According to the invention the object is achieved by the features of the main claim. Embodiments of the invention are shown in the subclaims.
Der Vorteil der Erfindung besteht darin, dass durch die Verwendung verschiedener Rainbow-Baumwollgarne mit unterschiedlicher Farbaffinität einfarbige Gewebe hergestellt werden können, die durch einen einzigen nachträglichen Färbevorgang ein mehrfarbiges Gewebe erzeugen. Durch das erfindungsgemäße Verfahren lässt sich eine vielgestaltige Farbkombination und Farbintensität frei wählen, wobei diese vom Verbraucher selbst bestimmt wird, wodurch eine große Flexibilität erreicht wird.The advantage of the invention is that, by using different rainbow cotton yarns of different color affinity, monochrome fabrics can be made which produce a multicolor fabric by a single subsequent dyeing operation. By the method according to the invention, a multi-colored color combination and color intensity can be freely selected, this being determined by the consumer himself, whereby a great flexibility is achieved.
Die Erfindung soll nachstehend an einem Ausführungsbeispiel näher erläutert werden.The invention will be explained in more detail below using an exemplary embodiment.
Die Kettherstellung mit Baumwollgarnen und den mit unterschiedlichen Farbaufnahmevermögen behafteten Rainbow-Garnen erfolgt allgemein textiltypisch in der Zettelei und in der Schlichterei gemeinsam. Die unterschiedlichen Färbeeffekte der Rainbow-Garne entstehen dadurch, dass übliche Baumwollgarne derart unterschiedlich vorbehandelt werden, dass sie anschließend eine unterschiedliche Farbaffinität aufweisen, d.h., dass diese vorbehandelten Baumwollgarne, die Rainbow-Garne, die Farbe beim Färben unterschiedlich stark aufnehmen. Die ausgewählten Rainbow-Garne werden mustergerecht für den Webvorgang in Kettrichtung eingelesen. Die Verarbeitung als Schussmaterial erfolgt dabei entsprechend der vorgegebenen Schussfolge des Designs. Es werden also Baumwollrohgarne und Rainbow-Baumwollgarne mit unterschiedlichem Färbeverhalten miteinander als Webkette, als Schussmaterial oder in Kombination als Kette und Schuss in einem an sich bekannten textiltypischen Bearbeitungsprozess verwebt. Dabei werden die Rainbow-Baumwollgarne und deren Anzahl entspechend dem gewünschten Design ausgewählt. Mindestens ein Rainbow-Baumwollgarn muss zur Erreichung verschiedener Farbtiefen und Abschattierungen vorhanden sein. In diesem Falle würde also beim Färben mit einer einzigen Farbe ein zweifarbiges Ton-in-Ton-Oberbekleidungsdamastgewebe entstehen. Soll ein vierfarbiges Ton-in-Ton-Oberbekleidungsdamastgewebe gewünscht werden, sind also ein unbehandeltes Baumwollgarn und drei Rainbow-Baumwollgarne zu verwenden.The production of warp with cotton yarns and the rainbow yarns with different ink receptivity is generally done in a typical textile fashion in the Zettelei and in the sizing shop together. The different dyeing effects of the rainbow yarns arise from the fact that conventional cotton yarns are pretreated so differently that they subsequently have a different color affinity ie, that these pretreated cotton yarns, the Rainbow yarns, absorb the dye at different levels of dyeing. The selected rainbow yarns are read in according to the pattern for the weaving process in the warp direction. The processing as shot material takes place in accordance with the predetermined shot sequence of the design. Thus, cotton raw yarns and rainbow cotton yarns with different dyeing properties are interwoven with each other as a warp, a weft or in combination as a warp and weft in a conventional textile processing process known per se. The rainbow cotton yarns and their number are selected according to the desired design. At least one rainbow cotton yarn must be present to achieve different color depths and shading. In this case, when dyed with a single color, a two-tone tone-on-tone outerwear damask fabric would result. If a four-tone tone-on-tone outerwear damask fabric is desired, then one untreated cotton yarn and three rainbow cotton yarns should be used.
Der Webvorgang verläuft textiltypisch auf Webmaschinen einbäumig oder zweibäumig. Die Anzahl der eingesetzten Kettbäume richtet sich dabei nach den Anteilen und der Musterung von Baumwollgarnen und Rainbow-Garnen. Die anschließende Textilveredlung wird mit den an sich bekannten Arbeitsgängen Sengen, Bleichen, Waschen mit dem Abzug der Markierfarbe, Mercerisieren, optisch Aufhellen, Appretieren, Kalandern und Aufmachung durchgeführt. Das Gewebe kann hier bereits als Weißware verwendet werden. Die verschiedenfarbigen Eigenschaften der Rainbow-Garne sind in diesem Stadium noch nicht erkennbar.The weaving process is typical of textiles weaving on einbäumig or zweibäumig looms. The number of warp beams used depends on the proportions and the pattern of cotton yarns and rainbow yarns. The subsequent textile finishing is carried out with the known processes of singeing, bleaching, washing with the withdrawal of the marking ink, mercerizing, optically lightening, finishing, calendering and presentation. The fabric can already be used here as white goods. The different colored properties of the Rainbow yarns are not yet recognizable at this stage.
Erst mit der Stückfärbung werden die unterschiedlichen Farbeffekte entsprechend der Rainbow-Garneigenschaften sichtbar. Bei Färbung des fertigen Oberbekleidungsdamastgewebes mit einer einzigen Grundfarbe in einer vorgegebenen Zeiteinheit entstehen die unterschiedlichsten Farbeffekte, von pastellfarbigen bis hin zu intensiven Farbtönen.Only with the piece color the different color effects become visible according to the Rainbow yarn properties. When dyeing the finished outerwear damask fabric with a single base color in a given time unit a variety of color effects, from pastel colored to intense shades.
Bei Teilung eines Gewebestückes in mehrere Teile, kann für jedes Teil eine andere Grundfarbe eingefärbt werden, mit zahlreichen Farbnuancen entsprechend der Intensität der Färbeflotte und der unterschiedlichen Eigenschaften der Rainbow-Garne.When dividing a fabric piece into several parts, a different base color can be dyed for each part, with numerous shades corresponding to the intensity of the dyeing liquor and the different properties of the Rainbow yarns.
Nachstehend sollen stellvertretend zwei Muster bezüglich ihrer Farben, mit der jeweiligen Kombination ihrer Garne beziehungsweise Fäden aufgezeigt werden.In the following, two patterns with respect to their colors, with the respective combination of their yarns or threads, will be shown.
Das veredelte weiße Oberbekleidungsdamastgewebe wird mit der Grundfarbe "blau" gefärbt. In diesem Ausführungsbeispiel wurden beispielsweise 1 Baumwollfaden und 3 Rainbow-Garne verarbeitet. Dabei färben sich durch die gezielte Auswahl des verwebten Baumwollrohgarnes und der Rainbow-Baumwollgarne:
Das veredelte weiße Oberbekleidungsdamastgewebe wird mit der Grundfarbe "rot" gefärbt. In diesem Ausführungsbeispiel wurden beispielsweise 1 Baumwollfaden und 4 Rainbow-Garne verarbeitet. Dabei färben sich durch die gezielte Auswahl des verwebten Baumwollrohgarnes und der Rainbow-Baumwollgarne:
Es können beliebig viele verschiedene und/oder verschieden vorbehandelte Rainbow-Garne verwendet werden, je nachdem, welches Design gestaltet werden soll. Die Stückgröße des zu färbenden Oberbekleidungsdamastgewebes ist völlig beliebig, selbst kleinste Chargen sind unabhängig vom Webort färbbar.Any number of different and / or differently pretreated Rainbow yarns can be used, depending on which design is to be designed. The piece size of the outerwear damask fabric to be dyed is completely arbitrary, even the smallest batches can be dyed independently of the weaving site.
Das erfindungsgemäße Gewebe für Oberbekleidungsdamast besteht somit in der Vielfalt der Kombination von Baumwollgarnen mit den verschiedensten Rainbow-Garnen in Kette und Schuss sowie der Vielzahl von Farbansätzen bei der Stückfärbung, wodurch sofort auf die individuellen Farbwünsche des Endkunden und auch auf gewünschte Kleinstmengen eingegangen werden kann.The fabric according to the invention for outerwear damask thus consists in the variety of the combination of cotton yarns with various rainbow yarns in warp and weft and the variety of color approaches in the piece dyeing, which can be addressed immediately to the individual color requirements of the end user and also to desired minimum quantities.
Claims (7)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE202006018045U DE202006018045U1 (en) | 2006-11-28 | 2006-11-28 | Combined cotton and wool woven fabric for outer wear employs rainbow colored yarns |
DE102007036762A DE102007036762A1 (en) | 2006-11-28 | 2007-08-03 | Combined cotton and wool woven fabric for outer wear employs rainbow colored yarns |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP1927690A2 true EP1927690A2 (en) | 2008-06-04 |
EP1927690A3 EP1927690A3 (en) | 2010-05-12 |
Family
ID=39190333
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP07016446A Withdrawn EP1927690A3 (en) | 2006-11-28 | 2007-08-22 | Method for manufacturing tone-in-tone fabric for outerwear damask and outerwear damask fabric |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP1927690A3 (en) |
DE (1) | DE102007036762A1 (en) |
Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3775045A (en) * | 1970-06-11 | 1973-11-27 | Ciba Geigy Ag | Process for the production of multi-colour effects on natural and synthetic polyamide fibre material |
DE19626547A1 (en) * | 1996-07-02 | 1998-01-08 | Girmes Gmbh | Method for producing colour designed fabrics of cellulose |
US5815867A (en) * | 1997-02-27 | 1998-10-06 | Keasler; Thomas J. | Pretreatment of yarn and subsequent dyeing of yarn or fabric woven therewith |
FR2877021A1 (en) * | 2004-10-26 | 2006-04-28 | Jean Marie Beck | DYEING PROCESS ON A WOVEN FABRIC FOR DELAVES EFFECTS HAVING A BINDING APPLICATION BEFORE WEAVING, THE DYE BEING DIFFERED AFTER WEAVING |
-
2007
- 2007-08-03 DE DE102007036762A patent/DE102007036762A1/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2007-08-22 EP EP07016446A patent/EP1927690A3/en not_active Withdrawn
Patent Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3775045A (en) * | 1970-06-11 | 1973-11-27 | Ciba Geigy Ag | Process for the production of multi-colour effects on natural and synthetic polyamide fibre material |
DE19626547A1 (en) * | 1996-07-02 | 1998-01-08 | Girmes Gmbh | Method for producing colour designed fabrics of cellulose |
US5815867A (en) * | 1997-02-27 | 1998-10-06 | Keasler; Thomas J. | Pretreatment of yarn and subsequent dyeing of yarn or fabric woven therewith |
FR2877021A1 (en) * | 2004-10-26 | 2006-04-28 | Jean Marie Beck | DYEING PROCESS ON A WOVEN FABRIC FOR DELAVES EFFECTS HAVING A BINDING APPLICATION BEFORE WEAVING, THE DYE BEING DIFFERED AFTER WEAVING |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
DE102007036762A1 (en) | 2008-05-29 |
EP1927690A3 (en) | 2010-05-12 |
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