EP1868690A2 - Utilisation de copolymeres contenant du polyisobutene dans les compositions cosmetiques - Google Patents

Utilisation de copolymeres contenant du polyisobutene dans les compositions cosmetiques

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Publication number
EP1868690A2
EP1868690A2 EP06725641A EP06725641A EP1868690A2 EP 1868690 A2 EP1868690 A2 EP 1868690A2 EP 06725641 A EP06725641 A EP 06725641A EP 06725641 A EP06725641 A EP 06725641A EP 1868690 A2 EP1868690 A2 EP 1868690A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
mol
copolymer
optionally
oil
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP06725641A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Volker Wendel
Darijo Mijolovic
Matthias KLÜGLEIN
Hubertus Peter Bell
Matthias Laubender
Helmuth VÖLLMAR
Anja Suckert
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
BASF SE
Original Assignee
BASF SE
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Publication date
Application filed by BASF SE filed Critical BASF SE
Publication of EP1868690A2 publication Critical patent/EP1868690A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
    • C08F290/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups
    • C08F290/02—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups on to polymers modified by introduction of unsaturated end groups
    • C08F290/06—Polymers provided for in subclass C08G
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8164—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a carboxyl radical, and containing at least one other carboxyl radical in the molecule, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. poly (methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
    • C08F283/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers provided for in subclass C08G
    • C08F283/06—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers provided for in subclass C08G on to polyethers, polyoxymethylenes or polyacetals
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
    • C08F290/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups
    • C08F290/02—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups on to polymers modified by introduction of unsaturated end groups
    • C08F290/06—Polymers provided for in subclass C08G
    • C08F290/062—Polyethers
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
    • C08F290/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups
    • C08F290/08—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups on to polymers modified by introduction of unsaturated side groups
    • C08F290/14—Polymers provided for in subclass C08G
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q11/00—Preparations for care of the teeth, of the oral cavity or of dentures; Dentifrices, e.g. toothpastes; Mouth rinses
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/002—Aftershave preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q9/00—Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
    • A61Q9/02—Shaving preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of
  • C 10 alkene wherein at least one oligomer having an average molecular weight M n in the range from 300 to 5000 g / mol, preferably up to 1200 g / mol having, or by oligomerization of at least 3 equivalents of C 3 -C 0 alkene is obtainable,
  • (C) optionally at least one ⁇ -olefin having up to 24, preferably up to 16
  • a 1 C 2 -C 2 o-alkylene the same or different
  • R 1 is C 1 -C 50 -alkyl, linear or branched, phenyl or hydrogen, n is an integer from 1 to 200,
  • Fats in cosmetic compositions which are not selected from the group consisting of washing, showering and bathing preparations, compositions for cleansing and / or care of hair and sunscreens with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 4.
  • SPF sun protection factor
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a copolymer a), optionally in combination with at least one component b) as defined herein, wherein the cosmetic compositions are not selected from the group consisting of washing, showering and bathing preparations, compositions for cleaning and / or care of hair and sunscreens with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 4.
  • SPDF sun protection factor
  • light stabilizers are understood as meaning compositions which comprise at least one, preferably a plurality of UV filter substances. Such compositions, which have a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 4, measured by the COLI PA method, are not subject of this invention.
  • SPF sun protection factor
  • compositions based on as few starting materials as possible are i.a. This is why it is of interest because with agents of the prior art, the large number of necessary components leads in part to skin irritations, allergic reactions or other incompatibilities.
  • a 1 C 2 -C 2 o-alkylene the same or different
  • R 1 is C 1 -C 10 -alkyl, linear or branched, phenyl or hydrogen, n is an integer from 1 to 200,
  • oligomers of branched or unbranched C3-C10-Alken wherein at least one oligomer has an average molecular weight Mn in the range from 300 to 5000 g / mol, preferably up to 1200 g / mol or obtainable by oligomerization of at least 3 equivalents of C 3 -C 10 -alkene, b2) isoalkane mixtures whose 1 H-NMR spectrum in the range of a chemical shift d of 0.6 to 1.0 ppm, based on Tetramethylsilane, an area integral of 25 to 70%, based on the total integral area, comprises b3) of b1) and b2) various cosmetically acceptable oils or fats in cosmetic compositions not selected from the group consisting of washing, showering and bath preparations, shampoos,
  • SPF sun protection factor
  • Copolymer a) is obtainable by preferably free-radical copolymerization of
  • (C) optionally at least one ⁇ -olefin having up to 24, preferably having up to 16 C atoms,
  • a 1 is C 2 -C 2 o-alkylene, identical or different
  • R 1 is C 1 -C 30 -AIRyI 1 linear or branched, phenyl or hydrogen, n is an integer from 1 to 200,
  • carboxyl groups of the copolymer a) can be at least partially esterified or amidated
  • oligomers (B) and b1) are oligomers of propylene or unbranched or, preferably, branched C 4 -C 1 o -Olef ine into account, wherein at least one oligomer having an average molecular weight M n in the range from 300 to 5000 g / mol, preferably up to 1200 g / mol or is obtainable by oligomerization of at least 3 equivalents of C 3 - C 10 -alkenes .
  • oligomers of propylene isobutene, 1-pentene, 2-methylbutene-1, 1-hexene, 2-methylpentene-1, 2-methylhexene-1, 2,4-dimethyl-1-hexene, diisobutene (mixture of 2, 4,4-trimethyl-1-pentene and 2,4,4-trimethyl-2-pentene), 2-ethyl-pentene-1, 2-ethylhexene-1 and 2-propylhepten-1, 1-octene, 1-decene and 1 Called dodecene, very particularly preferred are oligomers of isobutene, diisobutene and 1-dodecene.
  • the oligomers (B) or b1) have an ethylenically unsaturated group which may be in the form of a vinyl, vinylidene or alkylvinylidene group.
  • Co-oligomers of the abovementioned olefins with one another or with up to 20 wt .-%, based on (B) or b1) vinylaromatics such as styrene and ⁇ -methylstyrene, C 1 -C 4 -alkylstyrene such as 2-, 3 - And 4-methylstyrene and 4-tert-butylstyrene are suitable.
  • Particularly preferred oligomers (B) or b1) are oligopropylene and oligoisobutenes having an average molecular weight M n up to 1200 g / mol, preferably in the range from 300 to 1000 g / mol, more preferably of at least 400 g / mol, very particularly preferably of at least 500 g / mol, for example as determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC).
  • GPC gel permeation chromatography
  • oligomers (B) and / or b1) have a polydispersity M w / M n in the range from 1.1 to 10, preferably to 5 and particularly preferably from 1.5 to 1.8.
  • oligomers (B) or b1) have a bimodal molecular weight distribution with a maximum of M n in the range of 500 to 1200 g / mol and a local maximum of M n in the range of 2000 to 5000 g / mol ,
  • Oligomer (B) may be the same or different from oligomer b1). In one embodiment of the present invention, oligomer (B) and oligomer b1) are the same. As oligomer b1), oligomers of C 4 -olefins are preferably suitable. In one embodiment of the invention, the oligomers b1) are hydrogenated oligomers of C 4 olefins. Also particularly preferred as oligomers b1) are, if appropriate, hydrogenated, oligomers of 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 C 4 -olefin molecules.
  • Copolymer a) is present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10, particularly preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. If copolymer mixed with oligomer b1) is present in the composition, the weight ratio of oligomer b1) to copolymer a) in one embodiment of the invention is preferably from 1:10 to 3: 1, particularly preferably from 1: 5 to 2: 1 and most preferably from 1: 2 to 1, 5: 1.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise copolymer a) and, in each case based on the composition, less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and in particular no oligomer b1).
  • copolymer a) (A), (B) and optionally (C) used according to the invention it is possible to copolymerize with one another. It is also possible to copolymerize with one another and, if appropriate, react with (E) or (A), (B) and, if appropriate, (C) and optionally one further to prepare copolymer A) (A), (B) and optionally (C) according to the invention Copolymerize comonomer (D) with each other, or you can (A) and (B) and optionally (C) and optionally copolymerize another comonomer (D) with each other and optionally with (E) implement.
  • the compound (E) selected is at least one compound of the general formula Ia to Id, preferably Ia,
  • a 1 C 2 -C 2 o-alkylene for example - (CH 2 ) 2 -, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -, - (CH 2 ) 3 -,
  • R 1 is phenyl
  • n is an integer in the range of 1 to 200, preferably 4 to 20.
  • the groups A 1 can only be different if n is a number greater than 1 or if different compounds of the general formula I a to I d are used.
  • Methylend tendencyver total cost of materials, preferably 4 to 100, particularly preferably 4-50
  • Methylend tendencyver fundamentallymers of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and / or butylene oxide having a molecular weight M n of 300 to 5000 g / mol
  • Alkoxylated C 2 - to C 30 -alcohols in particular fatty alcohol alkoxylates, oxoalko holalkoxylate or Guerbet alcohol alkoxylates, wherein the alkoxylation can be carried out with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and / or butylene oxide, examples are
  • C 9 -C 1 oxo alcohol alkoxylates having from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, from 2 to 20 propylene oxide units and / or from 1 to 5 butylene oxide units;
  • C ⁇ -dbd-oxo alcohol alkoxylates having from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, from 2 to 20 propylene oxide units and / or from 1 to 5 butylene oxide units;
  • compound Ic can be reacted with alkylating agents such as, for example, halides or sulfates of the formula R 1 -Y with Y selected from Cl, Br and I or (R 1 J 2 SO 4 or the Alkyl istsagenzien obtained compound Id with Y, SO 4 2 " or R 1 -SO 4 " as the counterion.
  • alkylating agents such as, for example, halides or sulfates of the formula R 1 -Y with Y selected from Cl, Br and I or (R 1 J 2 SO 4 or the Alkyl distrsagenzien obtained compound Id with Y, SO 4 2 " or R 1 -SO 4 " as the counterion.
  • mixtures of different components (E), for example of the formula Ia are used.
  • those mixtures of compounds of the formula Ia in which, based in each case on the mixture, at least 95 mol%, preferably at least 98 mol% to not more than 99.8 mol% R 1 is C 1 -C 5 -alkyl and at least 0.2 mol% and at most 5 mol%, preferably at most 2 mol% of hydrogen.
  • the reaction mixture is contacted after the preferably free-radical copolymerization and, if appropriate, the reaction with (E) with water, where the water may also contain Bronsted acid or preferably Bronsted base.
  • Bronsted acids are sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, tartaric acid and citric acid.
  • Bronsted base examples include alkali metal hydroxide such as NaOH and KOH, alkali metal carbonate such as Na 2 CO 3 and K 2 CO 3 , alkali metal hydrogen carbonate such as NaHCO 3 and KHCO 3 , ammonia, amines such as trimethylamine, triethylamine, diethylamine, ethanolamine, N, N-diethanolamine, N, N, N-triethanolamine, N-methylethanolamine.
  • the monomer or monomers (D) which can optionally be used to prepare copolymer (a) used according to the invention are different from (A), (B) and (C).
  • Preferred monomers (D) are: C 3 -C 8 carboxylic acids or carboxylic acid derivatives of the general formula II
  • C 1 -C 10 -alkyl vinyl ethers such as methyl vinyl ether, ethyl vinyl ether, n-propyl vinyl ether, isopropyl propyl ether, n-butyl vinyl ether, isobutyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether or n-octadecyl vinyl ether;
  • N-vinyl derivatives of nitrogen-containing aromatic compounds preferably N-vinylimidazole, 2-methyl-1-vinylimidazole, N-vinyloxazolidone, N-vinyltriazole, 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine-N-oxide, N-vinylimidazoline , N-vinyl-2-methylimidazoline,
  • ⁇ , ⁇ -unsaturated nitriles such as acrylonitrile, methacrylonitrile; alkoxylated unsaturated ethers of the general formula V,
  • Phosphate-, phosphonate-, sulphate- and sulphonate-containing comonomers such as, for example, [2- (meth) acryloyloxy) ethyl] phosphate, 2- (meth) acrylamido-2-methyl-1-propanesulphonic acid;
  • ⁇ -olefins linear or branched, having 18 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably having up to 24 carbon atoms, for example 1-octadecene, 1-eicosene, Oc-C 22 H 44 , Ct-C 24 H 48 and mixtures of the aforementioned ⁇ -olefins ,
  • R 2 , R 3 are identical or different and selected from unbranched or branched C 1 -C 5 -alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl, n-pentyl, iso-pentyl, sec-pentyl, neo-pentyl, 1, 2-dimethylpropyl, iso-amyl, more preferably C 1 -C 4 -AlRyI such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-
  • C 1 -C 4 -AlRyI such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-
  • R 4 is identical or different and C 1 -C 22 -alkyl, branched or unbranched, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-butyl Pentyl, iso-pentyl, sec-pentyl, neo-pentyl, 1,2-dimethylpropyl, iso-amyl, n-hexyl, iso-hexyl, sec-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-
  • eicosyl particularly preferably C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl and tert-butyl;
  • R 5 is hydrogen or methyl
  • x is an integer in the range of 2 to 6, preferably 3 to 5;
  • y is an integer selected from 0 or 1, preferably 1;
  • a is an integer in the range of 0 to 6, preferably in the range of 0 to 2;
  • R 6 , R 7 are identical or different and selected from among hydrogen, unbranched or branched C 1 -C 10 -alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl,
  • X is oxygen or NR 4 ;
  • R 9 is selected from unbranched or branched C 1 -C 20 -alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, iso-pentyl, sec-pentyl, neo-pentyl, 1, 2-dimethylpropyl, iso-amyl, n-hexyl, iso-hexyl, sec-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n- Decyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl; preferably C 1 -C 14 -alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl
  • Pentyl isopentyl, sec-pentyl, neo-pentyl, 1,2-dimethylpropyl, iso-amyl, n-hexyl, iso-hexyl, sec-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl,
  • R 10 , R 11 are each independently hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, preferably R 10 and R 11 are each hydrogen;
  • R 12 is methyl or ethyl
  • a 2 , A 3 are identical or different and C 2 -C 2 o-alkylene, for example - (CH 2 ) 2 ⁇ ,
  • a 4 d-coco-alkylene for example -CH 2 -, -CH (CH 3 )., -CH (C 6 H 5 ) -, -C (CH 3 ) 2 -,
  • Examples of selected compounds of the formula III are (meth) acrylamides, such as acrylamide, N-methylacrylamide, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, N-ethylacrylamide, N-propylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-undecylacrylamide or the corresponding methacrylamides.
  • (meth) acrylamides such as acrylamide, N-methylacrylamide, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, N-ethylacrylamide, N-propylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-undecylacrylamide or the corresponding methacrylamides.
  • Exemplary selected compounds of the formula IV a are N-vinylcarboxamides such as N-vinylformamide, N-vinyl-N-methylformamide, N-vinylacetamide or N-vinyl-N-methylacetamide; Exemplary selected representatives of compounds of formula IV b are N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinyl-4-piperidone and N-vinyl- ⁇ -caprolactam.
  • Exemplary selected compounds of formula VI are (meth) acrylic acid esters and amides such as N, N-dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylates or N, N-dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylamides; Examples are N, N-dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, N, N-diethylaminoethyl acrylate, N, N-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, N, N-dimethylaminopropyl acrylate, N, N-dimethylarninopropyl methacrylate, N, N-diethylaminopropyl acrylate, N, N-diethylaminopropyl methacrylate, 2- (N, N-dimethylamino) ethylacrylamide, 2- (N, N-dimethylamino) ethylmethacrylamide, 2-
  • Illustratively selected compounds of the formula VII are vinyl acetate, allyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate, vinyl 2-ethylhexanoate or vinyl laurate.
  • Exemplary selected vinylaromatic compounds of the general formula VIII are ⁇ -methylstyrene, para-methylstyrene and in particular styrene.
  • comonomer (D) acrylic acid, 1-octadecene, methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, acrylamide, vinyl n-butyl ether, vinyl isobutyl ether, styrene, N-vinylformamide, N-vinylpyrrolidone , 1-vinylimidazole and 4-vinylpyridine.
  • the copolymers a) may be (A), (B), optionally (C) and optionally (D) block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers, preference being given to alternating copolymers.
  • the anhydride groups of copolymer a) after the polymerization are completely or partially hydrolyzed and optionally neutralized.
  • the anhydride groups of copolymer a) after the copolymerization are present as anhydride groups.
  • the molar ratios of copolymer used in accordance with the invention are
  • (D) 0 to 70 mol%, preferably 1 to 50 mol%, in each case based on copolymer, wherein the sum of (A), (B), (C) and (D) gives 100 mol%, and
  • a weight ratio of oligomer b1) to copolymer a) is selected in the range from 0.1: 1 to 100: 1, preferably from 0.5: 1 to 0: 1.
  • a weight ratio of oligomer b1) to copolymer a) is selected in the range from 1: 1 to 100: 1, preferably from 10: 1 to 50: 1.
  • the copolymers a) used according to the invention and their mixtures with oligomer b1) and their preparation are described in the German patent applications with the file references DE 10353557.8, DE 10355402.5 and DE 10345094.7, to which reference is made in their entirety.
  • the copolymers a) of (A), (B) and optionally (C) and (D) used according to the invention have an average molecular weight M w in the range from 1000 g / mol to 50,000 g / mol, preferably 1,500 g / mol to 25,000 g / mol, determined, for example, by gel permeation chromatography using dimethylacetamide as solvent and polymethyl methacrylate as standard.
  • Copolymers a) of (A), (B) and optionally (C) and (D) and (E) used according to the invention may relate to (A), (B) and optionally (C) and (D) block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers, preference being given to alternating copolymers.
  • the polydispersity MJM n of copolymers of (A), (B) and optionally (C) and (D) and (E) used according to the invention as copolymer a) is generally in the range from 1.1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10 ,
  • copolymers of (A), (B) and optionally (C) and (D) and (E) used according to the invention as copolymer A) have K values according to Fikentscher in the range from 5 to 100, preferably 8 to 30 (measured according to H. Fikentscher at 25 0 C in cyclohexanone and a Polymerkonzent- ration of 2 wt .-%).
  • copolymers used according to the invention may comprise a) non-copolymerized comonomer (B), for example in proportions of from 1 up to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of copolymer a).
  • the starting materials are (A), (B) and optionally (C) and (D ), which are preferably copolymerized with each other radically and optionally reacted with (E).
  • the reaction with (E) may, if desired, be carried out before, during and after the copolymerization. During or preferably after the copolymerization, it is possible to contact with water. But you can dispense with the contact with water for the production of copolymer used according to the invention a).
  • a free radical copolymerization of (A), (B) and optionally (C) and (D) is carried out first and then reacted with (E).
  • the radical copolymerization of (A), (B), and optionally (C) and (D) is carried out in the presence of the entire amount or proportions of the compound (E) to be used.
  • first (A) and optionally (D) are reacted with (E) and then free-radically copolymerized with (B) and optionally (C).
  • the total amount of (E) is calculated such that starting from a complete reaction of (E) and up to 50 mol%, preferably 1 to 30 mol%, particularly preferably 2 to 20 mol% (E), based on all carboxyl groups of the copolymer used.
  • all carboxyl groups contained in the polymer is understood as meaning those carboxyl groups of copolymerized comonomers (A) and optionally (D) which are present as anhydride, as C 1 -C 4 -alkyl ester or as carboxylic acid ,
  • the free-radical copolymerization is advantageously started by initiators, for example peroxides or hydroperoxides.
  • Suitable peroxides or hydroperoxides are di-tert-butyl peroxide, tert-butyl peroctoate, tert-butyl perpivalate, tert-butyl per-2-ethylhexanoate, tert-butyl permaleinate, tert-butyl perisobutyrate, benzoyl peroxide, diacetyl peroxide, succinic peroxide, p Chlorobenzoyl peroxide, dicyclohexyl peroxide dicarbonate, exemplified.
  • redox initiators is also suitable, for example combinations of hydrogen peroxide or sodium peroxodisulfate or one of the abovementioned peroxides with a reducing agent.
  • Suitable reducing agents are, for example, ascorbic acid, tartaric acid, Fe (II) salts such as FeSO 4 , sodium bisulfite, potassium bisulfite.
  • Suitable initiators are also azo compounds such as 2,2'-azobis (isobutyronitrile), 2,2'-azobis (2-methylpropionamidine) dihydrochloride and 2,2'-azobis (4-methoxy-2,4-dimethylvaleronitrile).
  • initiator is used in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 15 wt .-%, calculated on the mass of all comonomers.
  • the copolymerization can be carried out in the presence or absence of solvents and precipitants.
  • Suitable solvents for the radical copolymerization are polar, acidic anhydride inert solvents such as acetone, tetrahydrofuran and dioxane.
  • Suitable precipitants are, for example, toluene, ortho-xylene, meta-xylene and aliphatic hydrocarbons.
  • the reaction is carried out without solvent or in the presence of only small amounts of solvent, ie 0.1 to at most 10% by weight, based on total weight of comonomers (A), (B) and optionally (C) and ( D).
  • Suitable solvents are, under the conditions of copolymerization and esterification or amidation, inert substances, in particular aliphatic and aromatic hydrocarbons such as, for example, cyclohexane, n-heptane, isododecane, benzene, toluene, ethylbenzene, xylene as isomer mixture, meta-xylene , ortho-xylene.
  • inert substances in particular aliphatic and aromatic hydrocarbons such as, for example, cyclohexane, n-heptane, isododecane, benzene, toluene, ethylbenzene, xylene as isomer mixture, meta-xylene , ortho-xylene.
  • reaction with (E) is carried out without acidic catalyst or the reaction with (E) is omitted, the free-radical copolymerization and, if appropriate, reaction with (E) can also be carried out in solvents selected from ketones, for example acetone, methyl ethyl ketone , or cyclic or non-cyclic ethers such as tetrahydrofuran or di-n-butyl ether.
  • solvents selected from ketones, for example acetone, methyl ethyl ketone , or cyclic or non-cyclic ethers such as tetrahydrofuran or di-n-butyl ether.
  • the copolymerization and optionally the reaction with (E) is preferably carried out in the absence of oxygen, for example in a nitrogen or argon atmosphere, preferably in a stream of nitrogen.
  • a mixture of (E) and (A) is added and initiator is added and simultaneously (B) and optionally (C) and (D). It is preferred to add (B) and optionally (C) and optionally (D) in the manner of a feed process.
  • a mixture of (E) and (A) is provided and initiator and simultaneously (B) and optionally (C) and (D) in the manner of a feed process, wherein initiator, (B) and optionally (C ) and (D) are each dissolved in (E).
  • a mixture of (E) and (A) is provided and gives initiator and (B), (C) and (D) in the manner of a feed process, wherein the feed rates of (B), (C) and (D) are chosen differently.
  • a mixture of (E) and (A) is provided and gives initiator and (B), (C) and (D) in the manner of a feed process, wherein the feed rates of (B), (C) and (D) are chosen the same.
  • (A) and, if appropriate, (D) are added and initiator and (B) and, if appropriate, (C) are added in the manner of a feed process and are then reacted with (E), if appropriate.
  • (A) is introduced and initiator, (B) and optionally (C) and (D) are added in the manner of a feed process and subsequently reacted with (E), if appropriate.
  • (A) and (B) are introduced and the initiator and, if appropriate, (C) are added in the manner of a feed process and are then reacted with (E), if appropriate.
  • (B) and optionally (C) and (D) are added and initiator and (A) added in the manner of a feed process and subsequently reacted with (E), if appropriate.
  • (B) and, if appropriate, (C) are added and initiator (A) and, if appropriate, (D) are added in the manner of a feed process and are then reacted with (E) if appropriate.
  • (B) and, if appropriate, (D) are added and initiator (A) and, if appropriate, (C) are added in the manner of a feed process and are then reacted with (E) if appropriate.
  • (A), (B) and optionally (C) and (E) are added, and initiator and (D) are added in the manner of a feed process.
  • (A) 1 (B) and optionally (E) may also be presented in a solvent.
  • additional initiator is added during the addition of (B), (C) and optionally (D).
  • additional initiator is added during the addition of (A) and optionally (D).
  • the temperature for the copolymerization of (A), (B) and optionally (C) and (D) in the range of 80 to 300 0 C, preferably 90 to 200 0 C.
  • the pressure is for example in the range of 1 to 15 bar, preferably 1 to 10 bar.
  • regulators for example C 1 - to C 4 -aldehydes, formic acid and compounds containing organic SH groups, such as 2-mercaptoethanol,
  • Polymerization regulators are generally used in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, used on the total mass of the comonomers used. Preference is given to working without the use of controllers.
  • polymerization inhibitor can be advantageously with (B) and optionally dosed (C) and (D). Suitable amounts of polymerization inhibitor are 0.01 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 0.5 wt .-%, calculated on the mass of all comonomers. The addition of a polymerization inhibitor is particularly preferred when the copolymerization at temperatures above 80 0 C is carried out.
  • optionally (E) and optionally initiator can be allowed to react.
  • the duration of the free radical copolymerization is generally 1 to 12 hours, preferably 2 to 9 hours, particularly preferably 3 to 6 hours.
  • the duration of the reaction with (E) can be 1 to 12 hours, preferably 2 to 9 hours, particularly preferably 3 to 6 hours.
  • reaction time is from 1 to 12 hours in total , preferably 2 to 10 hours, more preferably 3 to 8.
  • catalysts in particular acidic catalysts such as e.g. Sulfuric acid, methanesulfonic acid, p-toluenesulfonic acid, n-dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid, hydrochloric acid or acidic ion exchangers.
  • reaction with (E) is carried out in the presence of an entraining agent which forms an azeotrope with water which may be formed during the reaction.
  • copolymerization of (A), (B) and optionally (C) and (D) gives copolymers.
  • the resulting copolymers can be subjected to purification by conventional methods, for example, reprecipitation or extractive removal of unreacted monomers. If a solvent or precipitant has been used, it is possible to remove it after completion of the copolymerization, for example by distillation.
  • the copolymer prepared as described above can be contacted with water, specifically the amount of added water is calculated so as to obtain a dispersion according to the invention which has a water content in the range from 30 to 99.5% by weight have on the total mass of aids.
  • the water may still contain Bronsted acid or preferably Brensted base.
  • Bronsted acids are sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, tartaric acid and citric acid.
  • Br ⁇ nsted base are alkali metal hydroxides such as NaOH and KOH, alkali metal carbonates such as Na 2 CO 3 and K 2 CO 3 , alkali metal hydrogencarbonate such as NaHCO 3 and KHCO 3 , ammonia, amines such as trimethylamine, triethylamine, diethylamine, Ethanolamine, N, N-diethanolamine, N 1 N 1 N-triethanolamine, N-methylethanolamine.
  • concentration of Bronsted acid or preferably Br ⁇ nsted base is generally from 1 to 20% by weight, based on the sum of water and Br ⁇ nsted acid or water and Bronsted base.
  • the carboxylic anhydride groups present in the copolymer can be partially or completely hydrolyzed. May include, after the contacting with water, which optionally Bronsted acid or, preferably, Br ⁇ nsted base, can be carried out at temperatures in the range of 20 to 120 0 C, preferably to 100 0 C to react for blank, and for a period of 10 minutes to 48 hours.
  • water wherein the water may still contain Br ⁇ nsted acid or, preferably, Br ⁇ nsted base, is initially introduced at from 50 to 100.degree. C. and optionally admixed in the manner of a feed process to a copolymer heated to from 50 to 120.degree.
  • copolymer at 50 to 120 0 C before and are added by a feed method the optionally up to 100 0 C was heated to 50 water, the water still Bronsted acid or preferably Bronsted base may contain.
  • a mixture of water wherein the water may still contain Bronsted acid or preferably Bronsted base and nonionic surfactant, at 50 to 100 ° C before and gives in the manner of a feed optionally to 50 bis 120 0 C heated copolymer too.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, multiply, preferably 3 to 30 times, alkoxylated C 12 -C 30 alkanols.
  • copolymer at 50 to 120 0 C before and are added by a feed method the optionally 50 to 100 ° C heated mixture to water, said water still contain Bronsted acid or preferably B ⁇ ansted base and nonionic surfactant
  • a non-ionic surfactant is, for example, several times, preferably 3 to 30-fold alkoxylated C 12 -C 30 alkanol in question.
  • copolymers described above are usually in the form of aqueous dispersions or aqueous solutions or in bulk.
  • Aqueous dispersions and solutions of copolymers described above are also the subject of the present invention. From novel aqueous dispersions and solutions, copolymers according to the invention can be isolated by methods known per se to those skilled in the art, for example by evaporation of water or by spray-drying.
  • Component b2) are isoalkane mixtures whose 1 H-NMR spectrum in the range of a chemical shift ⁇ of 0.6 to 1, 0 ppm, based on tetramethylsilane, a
  • an isoalkane mixture as described above which has a degree of branching V in the range from 0.1 to 0.35, preferably from 0.12 to 0.3, particularly preferably from 0.15 to 0.27, in particular from 0.17 to 0.23.
  • it is a Isoalkangemisch as described above, which has substantially no tert-butyl groups.
  • an isoalkane mixture as described above which contains at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 85% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight, of alkanes having 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • isoalkane mixture as described above, which consists essentially of alkanes having 8 or 12 or 16 carbon atoms.
  • it is an isoalkane mixture as described above obtainable by a process comprising a) providing a hydrocarbon feedstock containing at least one olefin of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, b) the hydrocarbon feedstock of oligomerizing a transition metal-containing one C) subjecting the catalyst to c) completely hydrogenating the oligomerization product obtained in step b).
  • it is an isoalkane mixture as described above obtainable by the above-described process, which is subjected to separation of the oligomerization product obtained in step b) and / or the hydrogenation product obtained in step c).
  • step a) it is an isoalkane mixture as described above obtainable by the process described above, wherein in step a) a hydrocarbon mixture is provided which has a content of linear olefins of at least 80 wt .-%, more preferably at least 90 wt .-%, in particular at least 95 wt .-%, based on the Bacolefinehalt having. More preferably, it is an isoalkane mixture as described above which is obtainable by the process described above, wherein in step a) a C4 hydrocarbon mixture is provided.
  • step b) it is an isoalkane mixture as described above obtainable by the process described above, wherein the catalyst used in step b) is a heterogeneous nickel-containing catalyst.
  • Suitable components b2) are also the mixtures containing C 16 -alkanes described in German patent application DE 10 2004 018 753
  • composition in which the molecules contained contain on average less than 1, 0 quaternary carbon atoms per molecule and in which the proportion of C 16 alkanes at least 95% by mass and in which the proportion of n Hexadecane is less than 5 mass%.
  • Suitable components b3) include all cosmetically acceptable oils, fats and waxes which are different from b1) and b2). Which of these can be in detail is described below.
  • An object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition containing a copolymer a), optionally in combination with at least one component b) as in one of claims 0 to Why! Reference source could not be found, defined, wherein the cosmetic composition is not selected from the group consisting of washing, showering and bathing preparations, shampoos, hair care products and sunscreens with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 4.
  • SPF sun protection factor
  • this cosmetic composition according to the invention contains at least 70% by weight of water and optionally at least one anionic and / or amphoteric polymer.
  • compositions according to the invention comprising copolymer a) and optionally component b) can be used as aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, O / W and W / O emulsions, hydrodispersion formulations, solid-stabilized formulations, stick formulations, PIT moldings, in the form of creams, foams , Sprays (pump spray or aerosol), gels, gel sprays, lotions, oils, oil gels or mousse and accordingly formulated with conventional other excipients.
  • aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions O / W and W / O emulsions
  • hydrodispersion formulations solid-stabilized formulations
  • stick formulations PIT moldings
  • PIT moldings in the form of creams, foams , Sprays (pump spray or aerosol), gels, gel sprays, lotions, oils, oil gels or mousse and accordingly formulated with conventional other excipients.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions for the purposes of the present invention are gel creams, hydroformulations, stick formulations, cosmetic oils and oils, mascara, self-tanner, facial care, personal care products, after-sun preparations, hair styling agents, hair setting agents and decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic compositions can also contain conventional, cosmetically acceptable additives such as emulsifiers and coemulsifiers, solvents, surfactants, oil particles, preservatives, perfume oils, cosmetic care agents and active ingredients such as AHA acids , Fruit acids, ceramides, phytantriol, collagen, vitamins and provitamins, for example, vitamins A, E and C, retinol, bisabolol, panthenol, natural and synthetic sunscreens, natural products, opacifiers, solubilizers, repellents, bleaches, colorants, tints, tanning agents (eg dihydroxyacetone ), Micropigments such as titanium oxide or zinc oxide, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, bodying agents, thickeners, solubilizers, complexing agents, fats, waxes, silicone compounds, hydrotropes, dyes, stabilizers, pH regulators, reflectors, proteins and protein hydrolysates
  • compositions according to the invention in such a liquid form that cloths of different materials and embossing can be impregnated with them.
  • cloths of different materials and embossing can be impregnated with them.
  • the person skilled in the art knows how to prepare such impregnated wipes.
  • UV light stabilizers may also be present in the cosmetic compositions, but the SPF of the compositions, determined by the COLI PA method, is less than 4.
  • compositions having an SPF of at least 4 are not subject of this invention.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to copolymer a), which is optionally mixed with component b), at least one further oil and / or fat phase.
  • cosmetic preparations are skin cosmetic preparations, in particular those for the care of the skin. These are especially as W / O or O / W skin creams, day and night creams, eye creams, face creams, anti-wrinkle creams, facial expressions creams, moisturizing creams, bleaching creams, vitamin creams, skin lotions, body lotions and moisturizing lotions.
  • cosmetic preparations such as toners, face masks, deodorants and other cosmetic lotions
  • decorative cosmetics such as concealer, theatrical paint, mascara and eye shadow, lipsticks, kohl pencils, eyeliners, makeup, foundations, rouges and powders and eyebrow pencils.
  • compositions according to the invention can be used in nose strips for pore cleansing, in anti-acne agents, in repellents, shaving agents, hair removal preparations, personal hygiene products, foot care agents and in baby care.
  • the skin-cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain, in addition to copolymerizate a), optionally component b) and suitable carriers, other active ingredients and auxiliaries customary in skin cosmetics, as described above and below.
  • suitable carriers include emulsifiers, preservatives, perfume oils, cosmetic active ingredients such as phytantriol, vitamins A, E and C, retinol, bisabolol, panthenol, natural and synthetic light stabilizers, bleaching agents, colorants, tinting agents, suntanning agents, collagen, protein hydrolysates, stabilizers, pH adjuvants.
  • Regulatore ⁇ dyes, salts, thickeners, gelling agents, bodying agents, silicones, humectants, conditioners, greases and other conventional additives.
  • compositions according to the invention can also be added to the compositions according to the invention if special properties are to be set.
  • the compositions may additionally contain conditioning substances based on silicone compounds. Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyarylalkylsiloxanes, polyethersiloxanes or silicone resins.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain no further conditioning polymers, since copolymer a), if appropriate mixed with component b), already has good conditioning action.
  • a further object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic and dermatological formulations in which the use of known, cosmetically customary emulsifiers can be dispensed with.
  • emulsifier-free preparations which have lipid or silicone oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, similar to an O / W emulsion.
  • the systems according to the invention can be termed hydrodispersions or oleodispersions, depending on which phase is the disperse phase and which phase is the continuous phase.
  • Emulsifier-free sunscreen preparations based on so-called hydrodispersions have been accessible to the consumer for some time.
  • Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid internal (discontinuous) lipid phase in an external aqueous (continuous) phase.
  • hydrodispersions are essentially free of emulsifiers.
  • Hydrodispersions, as well as emulsions are metastable systems and are prone to transition to a state of two contiguous discrete phases.
  • the choice of a suitable emulsifier prevents phase separation.
  • the stability of such a system can be ensured, for example, by establishing a gel skeleton in the aqueous phase in which the lipid droplets are stably suspended.
  • compositions according to the invention in the form of hydrodispersions, which consist of an inner lipid phase and an outer aqueous phase, and which contain in the range of 0 to 0.5 wt .-% of conventional emulsifiers.
  • Another object of the present invention was to provide formulations containing from 0.1 to 30% by weight of water-soluble and / or water-miscible substances which can be formulated without the galenic quality or other cosmetically desirable Properties of the preparations would be impaired or a novel skin sensation can be induced. It was therefore also an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions with very good sensory properties and a a content of water and water-soluble substances of at least 70% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention when applied to the skin, lead to an extremely pleasant skin sensation and are distinguished by very high cosmetic elegance.
  • the preparations break" on the skin, i.e. they disintegrate in the form of minute droplets.
  • At least one anionic and / or amphoteric polymer are dissolved.
  • non-polar lipids such as mineral oils often leads to unpleasant sensory effects such as an oily skin feel and strong stickiness of the formulations, especially in the presence of moisturizers such.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one component b2) and at least one component b3) in the form of a silicone oil.
  • Silicone oils of the compositions according to the invention are selected, in particular, from the group consisting of cyclic silicones, linear silicones and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the invention comprising at least one copolymer a) and at least one component b), preferably at least one component b1) or b2), have an outstanding moisturizing action,
  • composition of the invention can be configured by effortlessly setting the respective desired viscosities as a spray, as a flowable dosage form (for example lotion) or as a semi-solid to solid preparation (for example cream).
  • a particularly preferred dosage form is that of a hydrolysis dispersion.
  • compositions according to the invention are that their preparation does not have to be carried out at temperatures above room temperature, as is the case for the compositions known from the prior art.
  • Another object of the present invention is thus a process for the preparation of the composition according to the invention, characterized in that all steps of the process at a temperature of less than 30 0 C, preferably less than 25 ° C are performed.
  • Hair cosmetic compositions according to the invention are leveling agents for perms, curl relaxers, styling wrap lotions, hair fixatives which are not present as shampoos, hair shaping compositions and hair colorants.
  • a preferred use is the use of copolymer a), optionally mixed with component b), in hair styling adhesives which are in the form of sprays or hair foams.
  • a water-containing standard hair spray formulation for hair setting has, in addition to copolymer a) and optionally component b), for example, 2 to 10 wt .-% of a Festigerpolymer, ethanol, water and dimethyl ether and / or propane / n-butane and / or propane / iso-butane on.
  • Oils, fats and waxes In addition to optionally contained component b), the skin and hair cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain further oils, fats or waxes.
  • component b3 The oils, fats or waxes described below are suitable as component b3).
  • a particular advantage of the present invention is that when copolymerisate a) is used, which is mixed with component b), the required amount of further oils, fats or waxes can be significantly lower than is customary in the prior art, but the Application properties are at least as good.
  • Ingredients of the oil and / or fat phase of the composition according to the invention are advantageously selected from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C. -atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as e.g.
  • polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2 Octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleylureacate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC) and cocoglycerides (Myritol 331), butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and dibut
  • one or more oil components can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the SiI konöle, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous if be liable to use waxes, such as cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil component is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2
  • fatty acids triglycerides in particular soybean oil and / or almond oil, as oils having a polarity of from 5 to 50 mN / m.
  • paraffin oil squalane, squalene and in particular (optionally hydrogenated) polyisobutenes in the context of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of Guerbet alcohols.
  • Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who first described their production. They arise according to the reaction equation
  • Guerbet alcohols are fluid even at low temperatures and cause virtually no skin irritation.
  • they can be used as greasing, overfatting and also moisturizing ingredients in cosmetic compositions.
  • R 1 and R 2 are generally unbranched alkyl radicals.
  • the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are selected from the group, where
  • R 1 propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
  • R 2 hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.
  • preferred Guerbet alcohols are (commercially available, for example as lsofol ® 12 (Condea)) 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyl decanol (for example commercially available as iso- fol ® 16 (Condea)).
  • mixtures of Guerbet alcohols are according to the invention may advantageously be used such as mixtures of 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyl decanol (for example as lsofol ® 14 (Condea) commercially available).
  • polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil component may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
  • cyclic or linear silicone oils are preferred components b3).
  • Low molecular weight silicones or silicone oils are generally defined by the following general formula
  • silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R 1 to R 4 .
  • the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4, n may assume values of 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.
  • phenyltrimethicone is chosen as the silicone oil.
  • Other silicone oils for example dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (for example decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, are also to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention. Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and Isotridecylisononanoat, and those of cyclomethicone and 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.
  • silicone oils of similar constitution as the compounds described above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • these include, for example polysiloxane polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol.
  • cyclomethicone octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane is used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • Fat and / or wax components which can advantageously be used according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes.
  • Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, Esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite are advantageous, for example (Ground wax), paraffin waxes and micro waxes.
  • fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes such as Syncrowax ® (glyceryl tribehenate), and Syncrowax ® AW 1 C (C 18th 36 fatty acid) as well as Montanesterwachse, sasol, hydrogenated jojoba , synthetic or modified beeswaxes (z. B. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C 3O. 5 -alkyl beeswax), cetyl ricinoleates leate such as Tegosoft ® CR, polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats such.
  • Syncrowax ® glycol waxes
  • Syncrowax ® AW 1 C C 18th 36 fatty acid
  • Montanesterwachse sasol
  • hydrogenated jojoba synthetic or modified beeswaxes
  • Hydrogenated vegetable oils for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides
  • triglycerides such as hydrogenated soy glyceride, trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol kolester such as C 2O - 4 o-alkyl stearate, C 20 - 4 o-Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat and / or glycol montanate.
  • Other advantageous compounds are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the abovementioned fatty and / or wax components, for example stearoxytrimethylsilane.
  • the fat and / or wax components can be used both individually and as a mixture in the compositions.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl, Octyldo- decanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 2 -is-alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Particularly advantageous are mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic-capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, cocoglycerides or mixtures of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 12-15 -alkyl benzoate and butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and mixtures of C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.
  • the oil component is also advantageously selected from the group of phospholipids.
  • the phospholipids are phosphoric acid esters of acylated glycerols.
  • the lecithins which are distinguished by the general structure
  • R 1 and R are typically unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.
  • advantageous paraffin oil may according to the invention Mercury Weissoel Pharma 40 from Merkur Vaseline, Shell Ondina ® 917, Shell Ondiria ® 927, Shell Oil 4222, Shell Ondina ® 933 from Shell & DEA OiI, Pioneer ® 6301 S, Pioneer ® 2071 (Hansen & Rosenthal ) are used.
  • Suitable cosmetically acceptable oil and fat components b3) are described inter alia in Karl-Heinz Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Verlag Wegig, Heidelberg, pp. 319-355, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention already have good conditioning properties even without the addition of further conditioning agents. In a preferred embodiment, however, they contain further conditioning agents.
  • Conditioning agents which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, all compounds which are described in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Dental and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002) under Section 4 are listed under the headings Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin Conditioning Agents, Skin Conditioning Agents Emollient, Skin Conditioning Agents Humectant, Skin- Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin Conditioning Agents-Occlusive, and Skin Protects all in EP-A 934 956 (p.11-13) under "water soluble conditioning agent "and” oil soluble conditioning agent "listed compounds.
  • Further advantageous conditioning substances are, for example, the compounds designated as polyquaternium according to INCI (in particular polyquaternium-1 to polyquaternium-56).
  • Suitable conditioning agents include, for example, polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds, cationic cellulose derivatives, chitosan derivatives and polysaccharides.
  • Conditioning agents which are advantageous according to the invention can also be chosen from the compounds shown in Table 1 below.
  • guar hydroxypropylammonium eg Jaguar Excel ®, Jaguar C 162 ® (Rhodia), CAS 65497-29-2, CAS 39421-75-5.
  • non-ionic poly N-vinylpyrrolidone / polyvinyl acetate copolymers eg Lu viskol ® VA 64 (BASF)
  • anionic acrylate copolymers eg Luviflex soft ® (BASF)
  • amphoteric amide / acrylate / methacrylate copolymers for example, Amphomer ® (National Starch)
  • Other possible conditioning agents are quaternized silicones.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain thickening agents.
  • suitable thickening agents for the compositions according to the invention are crosslinked polyacrylic acids and their derivatives, polysaccharides such as xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates or tyloses, cellulose derivatives, eg. As carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxycarboxymethylcellulose, furthermore higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, fatty alcohols, monoglycerides and fatty acids, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone.
  • Suitable thickeners are also polyacrylates such as Carbopol ® (Noveon), Ultrez ® (Noveon), Luvigel EM ® (BASF), Capigel ® 98 (Seppic), Synthalens ® (Sigma), the Aculyn ® -. Trademarks of Rohm and Haas as Aculyn ® 22 (copolymer of acrylates and methacrylic acid with stearyl (20 EO units)) and Aculyn ® 28 (copolymer of acrylates and methacrylic acid with behenyl (25 EO units)).
  • thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicic acids), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with narrow hornloid distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
  • Particularly preferred thickening agents for the preparation of gels are ® Ultrez 21, Aculyn ® 28, Luvigel EM ® and Capigel ® 98th
  • compositions of the invention may also contain preservatives.
  • Compositions with high water contents must be reliably protected against microbial contamination.
  • the most important preservatives used for this purpose are urea condensates, p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters, the combination of phenoxyethanol with methyldibromoglutaronitrile and acid preservation with benzoic acid, salicylic acid and sorbic acid.
  • compositions with high levels of surfactants or polyols and low water contents can also be formulated preservative-free.
  • compositions of the invention may advantageously contain one or more preservatives.
  • preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde donors (such as, for example, DMDM Hydan- toin which is commercially available, for example under the trade name Glydant ® (Lonza)), iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example Glycacil-L ®, Glycacil-S ® (Lonza ) Dekaben ® LMB (Jan Dekker)), parabens (p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), Dehydroacetic Acid (Euxyl® K 702 (SchüIke & Mayr), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid.
  • so-called preservatives such as octoxyglycerol, glycines, soya, etc. are
  • Preservatives or preservatives which are common in cosmetics are also advantageous, such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid and salicylates.
  • dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile)
  • phenoxyethanol 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate
  • 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol imidazolidinyl urea
  • iodopropyl butylcarbamates parabens (methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butylparaben) and / or phenoxyethanol are used as preservatives.
  • Complexing agents Since the raw materials and also the compositions themselves are predominantly produced in steel equipment, the end products may contain iron (ions) in trace amounts. In order to prevent these impurities from adversely affecting the product quality via reactions with dyes and perfume oil components, complexing agents such as salts of ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid or phosphates are added.
  • UV photoprotective filter In order to stabilize the ingredients contained in the compositions of the invention such as dyes and perfume oils against changes by UV light, UV light protection filters such. As benzophenone derivatives are incorporated. Suitable for this purpose are all cosmetically acceptable UV light protection filters.
  • the compositions of the present invention contain UV photoprotective filters in an amount such that the sun protection factor (LSF, determined by the COLI PA method) of the compositions is less than 4. Compositions having an SPF of at least 4 are not subject of this invention.
  • UV protection filters which may be present in the compositions according to the invention include, for example:
  • compositions according to the invention are light stabilizers which are mentioned in EP-A 1 084 696 in paragraphs [0036] to [0053], to which reference is made in full at this point.
  • Suitable for use according to the invention are all UV photoprotective filters, which are mentioned in Appendix 7 (to ⁇ 3b) of the German Cosmetics Regulation under "Ultraviolet filters for cosmetic products”.
  • UV screening filters that can be used in the compositions of the invention is not exhaustive.
  • antioxidants An additional content of antioxidants is generally preferred.
  • the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosy
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the compositions is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the composition.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to provide them in concentrations of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to provide them in concentrations of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Buffers ensure the pH stability of aqueous compositions of the invention. Citrate, lactate and phosphate buffers are preferably used.
  • Solubilizers They are used to clearly dissolve nourishing oils or perfume oils and to keep them clear even in the cold.
  • the most common solubilizers are ethoxylated nonionic surfactants, eg. B. hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oils.
  • Germ-inhibiting agents Furthermore, germ-inhibiting agents can also be used. These generally include all suitable preservatives having specific activity against gram-positive bacteria, eg triclosan (2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether), chlorhexidine (1, 1'-hexamethylenebis [5- (4-chlorophenyl) - biguanide) and TTC (3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide).
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds are also suitable in principle. Also numerous fragrances have antimicrobial properties. A large number of essential oils or their characteristic ingredients such as clove oil (eugenol), mint oil (menthol) or thyme oil (thymol), show a pronounced antimicrobial activity.
  • the antibacterial substances are usually used in concentrations of about 0.1 to 0.3 wt .-%.
  • Dispersant When insoluble active ingredients, such as antishock agents or silicone oils, are to be dispersed in the composition and kept in suspension over time, it is advantageous to use dispersants and thickeners, such as, for example, dispersants.
  • dispersants and thickeners such as, for example, dispersants.
  • dispersants For example, magnesium aluminum silicates, bentonites, fatty acyl derivatives, polyvinylpyrrolidone or hydrocolloid, z.
  • xanthan gum or carbomers use.
  • preservatives are contained in a total concentration of at most 2, preferably at most 1.5 and more preferably at most 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the abovementioned substances, optionally the further additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfumes, dyes, antimicrobials, moisturizing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescing agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments , which have a coloring effect, thickeners, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances, or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, organic pH-adjusting agents, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • the further additives customary in cosmetics for example perfumes, dyes, antimicrobials, moisturizing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescing agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments , which have a coloring effect, thickeners, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing substances,
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention optionally contain ethoxylated oils selected from the group of ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters, more preferably PEG-10 olive oil glycerides, PEG-11 avocado oil glycerides, PEG-11 cocoa butter glycerides, PEG-13 sunflower oil glycerides, PEG-15 glyceryl isosteate, PEG-9 Coconut fatty acid glycerides, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 hydrogenated Ricinus oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, jojoba oil ethoxylate (PEG-26 jojoba fatty acids, PEG-26 jojoba alcohol), glycereth-5 cocoate, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glycerides, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-45 palm oil glycerides, PEG-35 castor oil , Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters, PEG-6 Caprylic Acid / Capric Acid Gly
  • Preferred ethoxylated oils are PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-9 coconut glycerides, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmat.
  • Ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters are used in aqueous cleaning formulations for various purposes.
  • Low ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters (3-12 ethylene oxide units) are usually used as a moisturizer to improve the skin feel after drying, glycerol fatty acid esters with a degree of ethoxylation of about 30-50 serve as solubilizers for non-polar substances such as perfume oils.
  • Highly ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters are used as thickeners. All these substances have in common that they produce on the skin when used in dilution with water, a special skin feel.
  • the active ingredients can be advantageously selected from the group consisting of acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, for.
  • B. hydrocortisone 17-valerate vitamins of the B and D series, in particular vitamin B 1 , vitamin B 12 , vitamin D, vitamin A or its derivatives such as retinyl palmitate, vitamin E or its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetates, Vitamin C and its derivatives such as ascorbyl glucoside but also niacinamide, panthenol, bisabolol, polydocanol, unsaturated fatty acids such as the essential fatty acids (commonly referred to as vitamin F), in particular ⁇ -linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphe - nicol, caffeine, prostaglan
  • antidandruff active ingredients eg selenium disulfide, zinc pyrithione, piroctone, olamine, climbazole, octopirox, polydocanol and their combinatines
  • complexing agents such as those from ⁇ - Oryzanol and calcium salts such as calcium panthotenate, calcium chlor
  • the active ingredients from the group of emollients advantageous, for example PurCellin, Eucerit ® and Neocerit® ®.
  • the active compound or agents are selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular when the compositions according to the invention for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and the Hair should serve.
  • Preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.
  • the active substance (s) are selected from the group comprising catechins and bile acid esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or plant parts which have a content of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, for example the leaves of the Theaceae plant family , in particular the species Camellia sinensis (green tea).
  • Particularly advantageous are their typical ingredients (e.g., polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids).
  • Catechins represent a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechin” (catechol, 3, 3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman
  • catechin catechol, 3, 3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman
  • epicatec chin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active ingredient in the sense of the present invention.
  • herbal extracts containing catechins especially extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis and C. inawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.
  • active substances are polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) Epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.
  • flavone and its derivatives are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention and are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions indicated):
  • flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.
  • the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the general formula
  • Z 1 to Z 7 independently of one another, are selected from the group consisting of H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched and unbranched and have 1 to 18 C atoms, and where GIy is selected from the group of mono- and Oligoglycosidreste.
  • the flavonoids can also be chosen advantageously from the group of substances of the general formula
  • Z 1 to Z 6 are independently selected from the group consisting of H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and have 1 to 18 C atoms, and wherein GIy is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.
  • such structures can be selected from the group of substances of the general formula
  • Z 1 to Z 6 independently of one another as mentioned above and GIyi, GIy 2 and GIy 3 independently represent monoglycoside or Oligoglycosidreste. GIy 2 or GIy 3 can also individually or together represent hydrogen atom saturation.
  • GIy 1 , GIy 2 and GIy 3 are independently selected from the group of hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous to use.
  • Z 1 to Z 5 are independently selected from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides correspond to the general structural formula
  • the flavone glycosides are selected from the group represented by the following structure.
  • Glyi, Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another are monoglycoside radicals or oligoglycoside radicals.
  • GIy 2 or GIy 3 can also individually or jointly represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • GIy 1 , GIy 2 and GIy 3 are independently selected from the group of hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous to use.
  • the flavone glycoside (s) from the group ⁇ -glucosylrutin, ⁇ -glucosylmyricetin, ⁇ -glucosylisoquercitrin, ⁇ -glucosylisoquercetin and ⁇ -glucosylquercitrin.
  • active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K 1 biotin and flavorings.
  • active compounds can also be chosen very advantageously from the group of hydrophilic active substances, in particular from the following group:
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or salicylic acid or salts thereof such as e.g. Na lactate, Ca lactate, TEA lactate, urea, allantoin, serine, sorbitol, glycerol, milk proteins, panthenol, chitosan.
  • the list of active substances or combinations of active substances which can be used in the compositions according to the invention should of course not be limiting.
  • the active substances can be used individually or in any combination with one another.
  • the amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in the compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the composition.
  • Suitable pearlescent waxes are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, special ethylene glycol disterate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanoamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which in total have at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and
  • compositions of the invention may further contain glitter and / or other effect substances (e.g., color streaks).
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are present in the form of emulsions in a preferred embodiment of the invention.
  • the preparation of such emulsions is carried out by known methods.
  • the emulsions may comprise customary constituents, such as fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and especially fatty acid triglycerides, fatty acids, lanolin and derivatives thereof, natural or synthetic oils or waxes and emulsifiers in the presence of water.
  • a suitable emulsion e.g. for a skin cream, generally contains an aqueous phase which is emulsified by means of a suitable emulsifier system in an oil or fat phase.
  • the proportion of the emulsifier system in this type of emulsion is preferably about 4 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase is about 20 to 60 wt .-%.
  • the proportion of the aqueous phase about 20 and 70%, each based on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
  • alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and their ethoxylated analogs
  • polystyrene resin e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxy stearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Also suitable are mixtures of compounds of several of these classes of substances;
  • C 8 to C 18 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With respect to the glycoside ester, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products.
  • zwitterionic surfactants can be used as emulsifiers.
  • a zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and / or one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropylphenyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 -carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoni
  • fatty acid amide derivative known by the CTFA name cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active connects be understood fertilize, apart from a C 8 to C 8 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH and / or -SO 3 H group and internal to form salts are capable.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 to C-is acylsarcosine.
  • quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, with those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention contain no further emulsifiers apart from copolymer a) and component b).
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain perfume oils.
  • perfume oils for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances may be mentioned. Natural fragrances are extracts of plants (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel ( Bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage , Thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, pines), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are ester type products, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are known e.g.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes e.g.
  • Isomethylions and Methylcedrylketon to the alcohols Anethol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Isoeugenol, Geraniol, Linalool, Phenylethylalkohol and Terioneol, to the hydrocarbons belong mainly the Terpene and Balsame.
  • mixtures of different fragrances are used, which together produce an attractive fragrance.
  • perfume oils eg sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, veti oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention further contain pigments.
  • the pigments are present in undissolved form in the product composition and may be present in an amount of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably from 5 to 15% by weight.
  • the preferred particle size is 1 to 200 .mu.m, in particular 3 to 150 .mu.m, particularly preferably 10 to 100 .mu.m.
  • the pigments are practically insoluble colorants in the application medium and may be inorganic or organic. Also inorganic-organic mixed pigments are possible. Preference is given to inorganic pigments.
  • the advantage of inorganic pigments is their excellent light, weather and temperature resistance.
  • the inorganic pigments may be of natural origin, for example made of chalk, ocher, umber, green soil, terraced terraza or graphite.
  • the pigments may be white pigments, e.g. Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to form black pigments, e.g. Iron oxide black, colored pigments such as e.g. Ultramarine or iron oxide red, to luster pigments, metallic effect pigments, pearlescent pigments, as well as fluorescent or Phosphoreszenzpigmente, preferably wherein at least one pigment is a colored, non-white pigment.
  • white pigments e.g. Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to form black pigments, e.g. Iron oxide black, colored pigments such as e.g. Ultramarine or iron oxide red, to luster pigments, metallic effect pigments, pearlescent pigments, as well as fluorescent or Phosphoreszenzpigmente, preferably wherein at least one pigment is a colored, non-white pigment.
  • Suitable are metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and molybdates and the metals themselves (bronze pigments).
  • Titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and brown iron oxide (Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29 ), Chromium oxide hydrate (C177289), iron blue (Ferric Ferro-Cyanide, CI7751 0), Carmine (Cochineal).
  • pearlescent and color pigments based on mica or mica which are coated with a metal oxide or a metal oxychloride, such as titanium dioxide or bismuth chloride, and optionally other coloring substances, such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarines, carmines, etc., and the color can be modified by varying Layer thickness can be determined.
  • a metal oxide or a metal oxychloride such as titanium dioxide or bismuth chloride
  • other coloring substances such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarines, carmines, etc.
  • Such pigments are sold, for example under the trade names Rona ®, Colorona ®, Dichrona and Timiron ® ® (Merck).
  • Organic pigments include, for example, the natural pigments sepia, cambogia, bone charcoal, Kasseler brown, indigo, chlorophyll and other plant pigments.
  • Synthetic organic pigments include azo pigments, anthraquinoids, indigoids, dioxazine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, perylene and perinone, metal complex, alkali blue and diketopyrrolopyrrole pigments.
  • the composition according to the invention contains from 0.01 to 10, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5,% by weight of at least one particulate substance.
  • Suitable substances are e.g. Substances which are solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and in the form of particles. Suitable examples are silica, silicates, aluminates, clays, mica, salts, in particular inorganic metal salts, metal oxides, e.g. Titanium dioxide, minerals and polymer particles.
  • the particles are present in the agent undissolved, preferably stably dispersed form and can be deposited in solid form after application to the application surface and evaporation of the solvent.
  • Preferred particulates are silica (silica gel, silica) and metal salts, especially inorganic metal salts, with silica being particularly preferred.
  • Metal salts are e.g. Alkali or alkaline earth halides such as sodium chloride or potassium chloride; Alkali or alkaline earth sulfates such as sodium sulfate or magnesium sulfate.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention may further contain additional polymers.
  • Suitable polymers are, for example, cationic polymers with the name Polyquater- nium according to INCI, for example, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat ® FC, Luviquat ® HM, Luviquat ® MS, Luviquat ® Care, Luviquat ® Ultra Care), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (Luviquat ® PQ 11), copolymers of N-vinyl caprolactam / N
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat Hold ®); cationic cellulose derivatives (polyquaternium-4 and -10), acrylamidocopolymers (polyquaternium-7) and chitosan.
  • Suitable cationic (quaternized) polymers are also Merquat ® (based polymer Dimethyldiallylammoniurnchlorid), Gafquat ® (quaternary polymers are formed by reacting polyvinylpyrrolidone with quaternary ammonium compounds), Polymer JR (hydroxyethylcellulose with cationic groups) and cationic polymers based on plants, For example, guar polymers, such as the Jaguar ® brands Fa. Rhodia.
  • polystyrene resins are also neutral polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate and / or vinyl propionate and / or stearyl (meth) acrylate, polysiloxanes, polyvinylcaprolactam and other copolymers N-vinylpyrrolidone, polyethyleneimines and their salts, polyvinylamines and their salts, cellulose derivatives, polyaspartic acid salts and derivatives.
  • Luviflex® ® Swing partially hydrolyzed copolymer of polyvinyl acetate and Polyethylengly- kol, Messrs. BASF
  • Kollicoat ® IR Kollicoat ® IR.
  • Suitable polymers are also those described in WO 03/092640, in particular those described as Examples 1 to 50 (Table 1, page 40 et seq.) And Examples 51 to 65 (Table 2, page 43) described (meth) Acryl Acidmidcopolymere, to the this site is fully incorporated by reference.
  • Suitable polymers are also nonionic, water-soluble or wasserdispergierba- re polymers or oligomers, such as polyvinylcaprolactam, including Luviskol Plus ® (BASF), or polyvinyl pyrrolidone and their copolymers, in particular vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, for example, Luviskol ® VA 37 (BASF); Polyamides, for example based on itaconic acid and aliphatic diamines, as described, for example, in DE-A-43 33 238.
  • polyvinylcaprolactam including Luviskol Plus ® (BASF)
  • BASF Luviskol Plus ®
  • polyvinyl pyrrolidone and their copolymers in particular vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, for example, Luviskol ® VA 37 (BASF);
  • Polyamides for example based on itaconic acid and aliphatic diamines, as described, for example, in DE-A-43 33 238.
  • Suitable polymers are also amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, such as those available under the names Amphomer ® (National Starch) octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-Butylaminoethylmethacryla ⁇ -hydroxypropylmethacrylat- copolymers and zwitterionic polymers, as described for example in German patent applications DE 39 29 973, DE 21 50 557, DE 28 17 369 and DE 37 08 451 are disclosed.
  • Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymers and their alkali metal and ammonium salts are preferred zwitterionic polymers.
  • zwitterionic polymers are methacroylethylbetaine / methacrylate copolymers, which are available under the name Amersette® ® (AMERCHOL), and copolymers of hydroxyethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid (Jordanian
  • Suitable polymers are also nonionic, siloxane-containing, water soluble or dispersible polymers, for example, polyether siloxanes, such as Tegopren ® (Fa. Goldschmidt) or Belsil ® (Fa. Wacker).
  • polyether siloxanes such as Tegopren ® (Fa. Goldschmidt) or Belsil ® (Fa. Wacker).
  • biopolymers i. Polymers derived from naturally renewable resources and constructed from natural monomer building blocks, e.g. Cellulose derivatives, chitin, chitosan, DNA, hyaluronic acid and RNA derivatives.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one further water-soluble polymer, in particular chitosans (poly (D-glucosamine)) of different molecular weight and / or chitosan derivatives.
  • chitosans poly (D-glucosamine)
  • polymers suitable for the compositions according to the invention are anionic copolymers, in particular containing carboxylic acid groups. These are polyelectrolytes with a larger number of anionically dissociable groups in the main chain and / or a side chain. They are capable of forming polyelectrolyte complexes (symplexes) with the copolymers A).
  • the polyelectrolyte complexes used in the agents according to the invention have an excess of anionogenic / anionic groups.
  • the polyelectrolyte complexes also comprise at least one acid group-containing polymer.
  • the polyelectrolyte complexes preferably contain copolymer (e) A) and acid group-containing polymers in a weight ratio of from about 50: 1 to 1:20, more preferably from 20: 1 to 1: 5.
  • Suitable carboxylic acid group-containing polymers are e.g. obtainable by free-radical polymerization of ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenically unsaturated monomers.
  • monomers m1) are used which contain at least one free-radically polymerizable, ⁇ , ß-ethylenically unsaturated double bond and at least one anionogenic and / or anionic group per molecule.
  • Suitable polymers containing carboxylic acid groups are also polyurethanes containing carboxylic acid groups.
  • the monomers are selected from monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids, phosphonic acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the monomers m1) include monoethylenically unsaturated mono- and dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 25, preferably 3 to 6, carbon atoms, which can also be used in the form of their salts or anhydrides. Examples thereof are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, ⁇ -chloroacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, glutaconic acid, aconitic acid and fumaric acid.
  • the monomers further include the half-esters of monoethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 10, preferably 4 to 6 carbon atoms, e.g.
  • the monomers also include monoethylenically unsaturated sulfonic acids and phosphonic acids, for example vinylsulfonic acid, allylsulfonic acid, sulfoethyl acrylate, sulfoethyl methacrylate,
  • the monomers also include the salts of the abovementioned acids, in particular the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts and the salts with the abovementioned amines.
  • the monomers can be used as such or as mixtures with one another. The stated proportions by weight are all based on the acid form.
  • the monomer m1) is selected from acrylic acid, methacryic acid, ethacrylic acid, ⁇ -chloroacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, glutaconic acid, aconitic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the abovementioned monomers m1) can each be used individually or in the form of any desired mixtures.
  • the comonomers used for the preparation of the carboxylic acid group-containing polymers are the compounds a) to d) previously mentioned as components of the copolymer A), with the proviso that the molar proportion of anionogenic and anionic groups which contains the polymer containing carboxylic acid groups in copolymerized form , greater than the mole fraction of cationogenic and cationic groups.
  • the polymers containing carboxylic acid groups comprise, in copolymerized form, at least one monomer selected from the abovementioned crosslinkers d). Suitable and preferred crosslinkers d) are referred to.
  • polymers containing carboxylic acid groups preferably contain in copolymerized form at least one monomer m2) which is selected from compounds of the general formula (VI)
  • R 1 is hydrogen or C 8 alkyl R C
  • Y 1 is O, NH or NR 3 , and
  • R 2 and R 3 independently represent -C 3 -alkyl or C 5 -C 8 cycloalkyl, where the alkyl groups by up to four non-adjacent heteroatoms or heteroatom-containing groups which may be selected from O, S and NH may be interrupted.
  • R 1 in the formula VI is preferably hydrogen or C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, in particular hydrogen, methyl or ethyl.
  • R 2 in the formula VI is C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, preferably methyl, ethyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl or a group of the formula - CH 2 -CH 2 -NH-C (CH 3 ) S. If R 3 is alkyl, then preferably C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl.
  • Suitable monomers m2) are methyl (meth) acrylate, methyl methacrylate,
  • Suitable monomers m2) are furthermore acrylic acid amide, methacrylamide, N-methyl (meth) acrylamide, N-ethyl (meth) acrylamide, N-propyl (meth) acrylamide, N- (n-butyl) (meth) acrylamide, N- (tert Butyl) (meth) acrylamide, N, N-dimethyl (meth) acrylamide, N, N-diethyl (meth) acrylamide piperidinyl (meth) acrylamide and morpholinyl (meth) acrylamide, N- (n-
  • polymers containing carboxylic acid groups preferably contain, in copolymerized form, at least one monomer m3) which is selected from compounds of the general formula VII R 5 O
  • H 2 C C c Y 2 (CH 2 CH 2 O) k (CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O) 1 R 4
  • k and I independently of one another represent an integer from 0 to 1000, the sum of k and I being at least 5,
  • R 4 is hydrogen, C r C 30 alkyl or C 5 -C 8 cycloalkyl
  • R 5 is hydrogen or stands
  • Y 2 is O or NR 6 , where R 6 is hydrogen, CpCso-alkyl or C 5 -C 8 -
  • k is preferably an integer from 1 to 500, in particular from 3 to 250.
  • I is an integer from 0 to 100.
  • R 5 is preferably hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl or n-hexyl, in particular for hydrogen, methyl or ethyl.
  • R 4 is preferably hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, octyl, 2-ethylhexyl, decyl, lauryl, palmityl or stearyl ,
  • Y 2 in formula VII is O or NH.
  • Suitable polyether acrylates VII) are, for example, the polycondensation products of the abovementioned ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenically unsaturated mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids and their acid chlorides, amides and anhydrides with polyetherols.
  • Suitable polyetherols can easily be prepared by reacting ethylene oxide, 1,2-propylene oxide and / or epichlorohydrin with a starter molecule, such as water or a short-chain alcohol R 4 -OH.
  • the alkylene oxides can be used individually, alternately in succession or as a mixture.
  • the polyether acrylates VII) can be used alone or in mixtures for the preparation of the polymers used according to the invention.
  • Suitable polyether acrylates II) are also urethane (meth) acrylates with alkylene oxide groups. Such compounds are described in DE 198 38 851 (component e2)), to which reference is made in its entirety.
  • anionic polymers which are preferred as carboxylic acid-containing polymers are, for example, homo- and copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and salts thereof. These include crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, as listed under the INCI Carbomer name are available. Such crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid are available commercially for example under the name Carbopol ® by the company Noveon. Also hydrophobically modified crosslinked polyacrylate polymers such as Carbopol ® Ultrez 21 are preferably from Noveon.
  • suitable anionic polymers are copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and their salts; Sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, water-soluble or water-dispersible polyesters, polyurethanes and polyureas.
  • Particularly suitable polymers are copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and polyether acrylates, wherein the polyether chain is terminated with a C 8 -C 30 -alkyl radical.
  • These include, for example, acrylate / Beheneth ⁇ ⁇ -methacrylate copolymers, which are available under the name Aculyn ® from Rohm and Haas.
  • Particularly suitable polymers are also copolymers of t-butyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, methacrylic acid (for example, Luvimer ® 100P, Luvimer ® Pro55), copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (eg Luviu- mer MAE ®), copolymers of N-tert-butylacrylamide, ethyl acrylate, acrylic acid (Ultrahold ® 8, Ultrahold ® Strong), copolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and optionally further Vinylester (eg Luviset ® brands), maleic anhydride copolymers, optionally reacted with alcohol, anionic polysiloxanes, for example carboxy, t- butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid (for example, Luviskol ® VBM ), Copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid with hydrophobic monomers, such as C 4 -C 30 -al
  • Meth (acrylic acid), C 4 -C 30 -alkyl vinyl esters, C 4 -C 30 -alkyl vinyl ethers and hyaluronic acid examples are also vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, as are, for example, under the names Resyn ® (National Starch) and Gafset ® (GAF), and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, obtainable for example under the trade name Luviflex ® ( BASF).
  • Suitable polymers are the commercially available under the name Luviflex VBM-35 ® (BASF) vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymer and sodium sulfonate-containing polyamides or sodium sulfonate-containing polyester.
  • the group of suitable anionic polymers comprises Balance CR ® (National Starch; Acrylate Copolymer), balance 0/55 ® (National Starch; Acrylate Copolymer), Balance ® 47 (National Starch; octylacrylamide / - acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer ) Aquaflex ® FX 64 (ISP; isobutylene / ethylmaleimide / hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer) Aquaflex ® SF-40 (ISP / National Starch; VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer), Alliance ® LT-120 (ISP / Rohm &Haas; acrylates / C1-2 succinate / hydroxyacrylate copolymer), Aquarez ® HS (Eastman, polyester-1), and ® Diaformer Z-400 (Clariant; methacryloylethyl
  • Suitable carboxylic acid group-containing polymers are the terpolymers described in US No. 3,405,084 of vinylpyrrolidone, C r Ci 0 alkyl, cycloalkyl and ryl A- (meth) acrylates and acrylic acid.
  • Suitable polymers containing carboxylic acid groups are furthermore the terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate and (meth) acrylic acid described in EP-AO 257 444 and EP-AO 480 280.
  • Suitable polymers containing carboxylic acid groups are furthermore the copolymers described in DE-A-42 23 066, which contain at least one (meth) acrylic acid ester,
  • the preparation of the abovementioned carboxylic acid group-containing polymers is carried out by known processes, for example the solution, precipitation, suspension or emulsion polymerization, as described above for the copolymers A).
  • Suitable carboxylic acid group-containing polymers are also polyurethanes containing carboxylic acid groups.
  • EP-A-636361 discloses suitable block copolymers having polysiloxane blocks and polyurethane / polyurea blocks having carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid groups. Suitable silicone-containing polyurethanes are also described in WO 97/25021 and EP-A-751 162.
  • Suitable polyurethanes are also described in DE-A-42 25 045, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • the acid groups of the carboxylic acid group-containing polymers may be partially or completely neutralized. Then at least a part of the acid groups lies in deprotonated form, wherein the counterions are preferably selected from alkali metal ions, such as Na + , K + , ammonium ions and their organic derivatives, etc.
  • Propellant gases Propellant gases
  • compositions according to the invention are to be provided as an aerosol spray, then blowing agents are necessary.
  • Suitable propellants are the customary propellants, such as n-propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, 2,2-dimethylbutane, n-pentane, isopentane, dimethyl ether, difluoroethane, fluorotrichloromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane or dichlorotetrafluoroethane, HFC 152 A or mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbons in particular propane, n-butane, n-pentane and mixtures thereof, as well as dimethyl ether and difluoroethane are used.
  • one or more of said chlorinated hydrocarbons are used in propellant mixtures, but only in small amounts, for example up to 20 wt .-%, based on the propellant mixture.
  • the hair cosmetic preparations according to the invention are also suitable for pump spray formulations without the addition of propellants or else for aerosol sprays with customary compressed gases such as nitrogen, compressed air or carbon dioxide as propellant.
  • compositions of the invention may also contain surfactants.
  • surfactants anionic, cationic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants can be used.
  • acylamino acids and their salts such as
  • Sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • Acyl isethionates for example, sodium or ammonium cocoyl isethionate
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA-
  • Alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C 12-1 3 pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example, sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • Ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate
  • Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate
  • Alkylsulfonates for example sodium, sodium C12 - finsulfonat I4 olefinsulfonates, sodium lauryl and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
  • Acylglutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
  • Acyl peptides for example, palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein, and sodium cocalyzed hydrolyzed collagen
  • carboxylic acids and derivatives such as
  • lauric acid for example, lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and Zinismecy- lenat, ester carboxylic acids, for example, calcium stearoyilactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat
  • Advantageous cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are quaternary surfactants.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups.
  • alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysultaine are advantageous.
  • cationic surfactants in the context of the present invention are further alkylamines
  • amphoteric surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are acyl / dialkylethylenediamines, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium umacylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphopropionate, and N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylglycinate sodium salts.
  • acyl / dialkylethylenediamines for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium umacylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphopropionate, and N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylglycinate sodium salts.
  • amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • Alkanolamides such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • Esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
  • Lysiloxane ethers for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated polyvinyl, propoxylated POE ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, such as lauryl glucoside, Removal cylglycosid and cocoglycoside, glycosides with an HLB value of at least 20 (eg, Belsil SPG ® 128V (Wacker)).
  • nonionic surfactants are alcohols and amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
  • alkyl ether sulfates sodium alkyl ether sulfates based on di- or tri-ethoxylated lauryl and myristyl alcohol are particularly preferred. They clearly outperform the alkyl sulfates with regard to their resistance to water hardness, colourability, low solubility and, in particular, skin and mucous membrane compatibility. Lauryl ether sulfate has better foam properties than myristyl ether sulfate, but this is inferior in mildness.
  • alkyl ether carboxylates are among the mildest surfactants ever, but have poor foam and viscosity properties. hold. They are often used in combination with alkyl ether sulfates and amphoteric surfactants.
  • Sulfosuccinic acid esters are mild and, because of their poor thickenability, preference is given to using surfactants which are preferred only in neutral or well-buffered products only together with other anionic and amphoteric surfactants and, owing to their low hydrolytic stability.
  • Amidopropylbetains have excellent skin and eye mucous membrane compatibility. In combination with anionic surfactants, their mildness can be synergistically improved. Preferred is the use of cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • Arnphotoacetates / amphodiacetates as amphoteric surfactants, have a very good skin and mucous membrane compatibility and can have a conditioning effect or increase the care effect of additives. They are similar to the betaines used to optimize alkyl ether sulfate formulations. Most preferred are sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate.
  • Alkyl polyglycosides are mild, have good universal properties, but foam weakly. For this reason, they are preferably used in combination with anionic surfactants.
  • polysorbate agents can advantageously be incorporated into the composition.
  • advantageous polysorbates are the
  • Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate (Tween 60, CAS No. 9005-67-8). These are advantageously used according to the invention in a concentration of from 0.1 to 5% by weight and in particular in a concentration of from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, individually or as a mixture of a plurality of polysorbates.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise copolymer a) and, in each case based on the composition, less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and in particular no component b).
  • compositions according to the invention containing copolymer a) can advantageously be used for the removal of excess oil or lipid from the skin surface.
  • these compositions contain, based on the composition, less than 1 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.1 wt .-% and in particular no component b).
  • a further object of the present invention was thus to provide self-tanning products which do not have the aforementioned disadvantages.
  • compositions according to the invention which contain one or more self-tanning substances.
  • the invention also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising copolymer a), optionally mixed with component b), one or more self-tanning substances and optionally further cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.
  • compositions according to the invention can be present and used in various forms. So they can z.
  • Emulsifier-free formulations such as hydrodispersions, hydrogels or a Pickering emulsion are advantageous embodiments.
  • the consistency of the formulations can range from pasty formulations via free-flowing formulations to low-viscosity, sprayable products. Accordingly, creams, lotions or sprays can be formulated.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention are applied to the skin in a sufficient amount in the usual manner for cosmetics and dermatological agents.
  • Suitable self-tanning agents are, inter alia, glycerolaldehyde, hydroxymethylglyoxal, ⁇ -dialdehyde, erythrulose, 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Jug Ion) and the 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone occurring in the henna leaves.
  • DHA 1, 3-dihydroxyacetone
  • Fructose and ninhydrin can be used as self-tanning agents according to the invention.
  • a self-tanner in the context of the invention are also substances to understand that cause a deviating from Braunton skin color.
  • these compositions contain a plurality of self-tanning substances in a concentration of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 6 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • these compositions contain them as a self-tanning substance 1, 3-dihydroxyacetone. More preferably, these compositions contain organic and / or inorganic sunscreen filters. The compositions may also contain inorganic and / or organic and / or modified inorganic pigments.
  • An object of the invention is also the use of such compositions for coloring the skin of multicellular organisms, in particular the skin of Human and animal, in particular also for the color matching of differently pigmented skin areas.
  • the K values of the copolymers according to the invention were determined according to H. Fikentscher, Cellulose-Chemie, Volume 13, 58-64 and 761-774 (1932) in cyclohexanone at 25 ° C. and a polymer concentration of 2% by weight.
  • Copolymer a) was obtained in the form of an aqueous dispersion which had a pH of 6.5 and a water content of 80% by weight. The K value was 14.7.
  • a first mixture of copolymer a) with oligomer b1) was prepared by reacting 90 g of polyisobutene (oligomer b1)) having a molecular weight M n of 550 g / mol with 10 g of the above-described dispersion of copolymer a) by stirring Beaker mixed.
  • a second mixture of copolymer a) with oligomer b1) was prepared by mixing 90 g of polyisobutene (oligomer b1)) having a molecular weight M n of 1000 g / mol with 10 g of the above-described dispersion of copolymer a) by stirring in a Beaker mixed.
  • the amount of mixture 1 and mixture 2 given in the tables is in each case the amount of copolymer a), ie without other components.
  • the corresponding amount of oligomer b1) is not given in the tables, but can be easily calculated from the compositions of the mixtures.
  • Ethanol 15,00 further addition: silicone, perfume, defoamer ...
  • Ethanol 55,00 further addition: silicone, perfume, defoamer ...
  • Aculyn ® 28 (1% aqueous suspension) 50.00
  • Phases 1 and 2 are weighed and homogenized separately. Then it will be phase
  • phase A and phase B separately to 80 0 C warm. Then mix phase B in phase A with a stirrer. Allow to cool to 40 ° C. and add phase C and phase D. Homogenize repeatedly.
  • Preparation Wet phase A with butylene glycol, add to phase B and mix well. Heat phase AB to 75 ° C. Pulverize phase C feedstocks, add to phase AB and homogenize well. Mix the starting materials of phase D, heat to 80 0 C and add to phase ABC. Mix for a while until everything is homogenous. Transfer everything to a vessel with a propeller mixer. Mix phase E starting materials, add to phase ABCD and mix well.
  • Example S12 Toner for dry and sensitive skin
  • Example S13 Peeling cream, type O / W
  • phase A Mix the components of phase A. Stir phase B into phase A while homogenizing, after-homogenize shortly. Neutralize with Phase C and homogenize again.
  • phase A Place phase B in phase A and dissolve. Add phase C and allow to stir under vacuum at RT for approx. 45 min.
  • phase A swell.
  • Solve phase B and C separately. Stir phase A and B into phase C.
  • phase A Heat phase A to 80 ° C. Clear phase A clearly. Incorporate phase B and homogenize. Phase C, heat to 80 C C, melt and homogenize. Cool with stirring to about 40 0 C, add phase D and briefly homogenize. 90% of active ingredient solution: fill 10% propane / butane with 3,5 bar (20 0 C).
  • Example H27 dark brown permanent hair color (oxidation hair color)
  • phase A Solubilize phase A. Add the components of phase B one after the other and mix.
  • Example H28 light brown semi-permanent hair color
  • Ethanol 82,00 further addition: silicone, perfume, defoamer ...

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des copolymères obtenus par copolymérisation d'au moins un anhydride d'acide dicarboxylique éthyléniquement insaturé dérivé d'au moins un acide dicarboxylique ayant 4 à 8 atomes de carbone et d'au moins un oligomère d'alcènes C<SUB>3</SUB>-C<SUB>10 </SUB>ramifiés ou non ramifiés, au moins un oligomère ayant un poids moléculaire moyen M<SUB>n</SUB> compris entre 300 et 5000 g/mol, de préférence de 1200 g/mol maximum ou bien par oligomérisation d'au moins 3 alcènes C<SUB>3</SUB>-C<SUB>10</SUB> équivalents. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation de ces copolymères dans des compositions cosmétiques.
EP06725641A 2005-04-08 2006-04-07 Utilisation de copolymeres contenant du polyisobutene dans les compositions cosmetiques Withdrawn EP1868690A2 (fr)

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DE102005016537A DE102005016537A1 (de) 2005-04-08 2005-04-08 Verwendung von Polyisobuten enthaltenden Copolymerisaten in kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen
PCT/EP2006/061430 WO2006106140A2 (fr) 2005-04-08 2006-04-07 Utilisation de copolymeres contenant du polyisobutene dans les compositions cosmetiques

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DE102005016537A1 (de) 2006-10-19
WO2006106140A2 (fr) 2006-10-12
US20080194715A1 (en) 2008-08-14
WO2006106140A3 (fr) 2007-02-01

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