EP1791515A1 - Pearl extract used in cosmetic agents - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic preparations containing a synergistically effective active substance complex A comprised of a pearl extract and of at least one additional compound selected from: i) at least one vitamin and/or at least one vitamin precursor and/or a derivative of the vitamin and/or of vitamin precursors (K); ii) at least one plant extract (L); iii) at least one additional protein and/or at least one additional protein hydrolysate (P), and; iv) at least one silicon compound (S) for treating skin and hair.

Description

^■ 'Pearl extract in cosmetic products'

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing a synergistically effective combination of a pearl extract and vitamins, their derivatives and / or vitamin precursors, or plant extracts or proteins and / or protein hydrolysates and their use for the treatment of skin and hair, in particular for the cleaning and / or care of skin and Hair.

The cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role. Apart from the bleaching agents that cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair coloring essentially three types of hair dye are of importance:

For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and Kupplerkom¬ components. The developer components form under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or under coupling with one or more Coupler components from the actual dyes. The Oxidati onsfärbemittel are characterized by excellent, long-lasting dyeing results. For naturally acting dyeings, however, it is usually necessary to use a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors; In many cases direct dyes are also used for shading. If the dyes formed or used directly in the course of the color formation have significantly different fastnesses (eg UV stability, perspiration fastness, washfastness, etc.), a noticeable and therefore undesirable color shift can occur over time. This phenomenon occurs more frequently when the hairstyle has hair or hair zones of different degrees of damage. An example of this is long hair, in which the hair tips exposed for a long time to all sorts of environmental influences are usually much more damaged than the relatively newly regrown hair zones.

For temporary dyeings usually dyeing or tinting agents are used which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that grow directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much more undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much more quickly.

Finally, recently, a novel dyeing process has received much attention. In this method, precursors of the natural hair dye melanin are applied to the hair; These then form naturally-analogous dyes in the course of oxidative processes in the hair. Such a process with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline as dye precursor was described in EP-B 1-530 229. In particular, multiple use of agents with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, it is possible to reproduce natural hair color to people with graying hair. The coloration can be done with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant, so that no further Oxidizing agent must be resorted to. In individuals with originally medium blond to brown hair, the indoline can be used as the sole dye precursor. On the other hand, satisfactory results can often only be achieved by the use of further dye components, in particular special oxidation dye precursors, for use in persons with originally red and, in particular, dark to black hair color.

Not least due to the heavy use of the hair, for example by dyeing or perming, as well as by the cleaning of the hair with shampoos and Um¬ worldbelastungen, the importance of care products with as long-lasting effect as possible. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased splits following such treatments.

It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.

Furthermore, so-called combination preparations have recently been developed in order to reduce the expense of the usual multi-stage process, especially in the direct application by consumers.

These preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example for the cleaning of the hair, in addition to active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because one product is less needed. The available active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface. Thus, active ingredients are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combabilities or prevent splitting. Just as important as the external appearance of the hair, however, is the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers, which can be greatly influenced, in particular, by oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and perming.

However, the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently. There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or Wirkstoffkom¬ combinations for cosmetic products with good nourishing properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional skin-care active ingredients which can be incorporated without problems into known formulations.

Wanted as nourishing agents in particular proteins and / or protein hydrolysates, which are able to significantly restructure the internal structure of fibers, especially keratinic fibers. Structural strengthening, that is to say restructuring in the context of the invention, is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to the most diverse influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role. Restructured fibers are distinguished, for example, by an improved gloss or by an improved grip or by easier combing. In addition, they have an optimized strength and elasticity. A successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber. A detailed description of the method for determining the melting range of hair can be found in DE 196 173 95 A1. Proteins and protein hydrolysates have been known for a long time and are widely used in cosmetics. Reference may be made to the relevant literature, for example in A. Domsch, "The Cosmetic Preparations", Volume II, page 205 and following, Publishing House for the chemical industry, H. Ziolkowsky. However, there is no indication of a restructuring, which is characterized by an increased strength and elasticity to find.

It has long been known to use in cosmetic preparations proteins or modified proteins to achieve nourishing effects. For this purpose entΛveder water-soluble proteins or by chemical and / or enzymatic reactions modified, so made water-soluble proteins are used. In the case of the reactions to achieve adequate solubility in water, fibrous proteins often require such extensive degradation that the cosmetic effectiveness is no longer sufficient.

In particular, vegetable proteins and their hydrolyzates as well as derivatives in cosmetics have been used more and more frequently recently. For example, products based on wheat, oats, rice, corn, potatoes, soybeans or moringa plants are known. Other newer proteins and protein hydrolysates are derived from marine animals and are used in cosmetic preparations. In particular, proteins and protein hydrolysates are obtained and used by algae and fish. But also shellfish and crustaceans such as crabs, crabs or clams are increasingly used for the production of proteins and protein hydrolysates for use in cosmetic products. Mussels can be particularly interesting, because in mussels numerous trace elements are included. Especially interesting may be the use of the pearls of shells. Thus, for example, the German utility model DE 203 13 122 Ul describes the use of a pearl extract in cosmetic products for beautification and care of the skin. However, there is not the slightest indication of the synergistic drug mixture of the present invention. It has now surprisingly been found that an active compound mixture of the extract of pearls and at least one further compound selected from i) at least one vitamin and / or at least one vitamin precursor and / or a derivative of the vitamins and / or vitamin precursors (K), ii) at least a plant extract (L), iii) at least one further protein and / or at least one further protein hydrolyzate (P) and iv) at least one silicone compound (S) significantly improves the skin and keratinic fibers in their properties. Thus, with this active ingredient mixture keratinic fibers are significantly improved in their combability, in the grip, in the gloss and in their internal structure. Furthermore, the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers is clearly positively influenced. The fibers can absorb and store more moisture, which contributes to strengthening their internal structural cohesion. The skin moisture is also positively influenced on the skin. But also the tissue is significantly strengthened and strengthened, which manifests itself for example in reduced wrinkling and a smoother and at the same time more elastic skin.

A first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic preparations containing an active substance complex A consisting of a pearl extract and at least one further compound selected from i) at least one vitamin and / or at least one vitamin precursor and / or a derivative of the vitamins and / or vitamin precursors (K) , ii) at least one plant extract (L), iii) at least one further protein and / or at least one further protein hydrolyzate (P) and iv) at least one silicone compound (S).

The active ingredient complex A used according to the invention significantly synergistically improves the above-described essential internal and external structural features and the strength and elasticity of human hair and skin. According to the invention, keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.

Beads of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be easily obtained from cultivated mussels. The cultivation of the mussels can be done in fresh water as well as in sea water. This can affect the ingredients of the beads. According to the invention, preference is given to a pearl extract which originates from shells cultivated in marine or salt water. The pearls consist to a large extent of aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter components are proteins. Also included in beads are magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds, and phosphates.

To prepare the pearl extract, the beads are pulverized. Thereafter, the pulverized beads are extracted by the usual methods. As extraction agent for the preparation of the pearl extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are understood to mean both demineralized water and seawater. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water or sea water, preferably. Pearl extracts based on water / glycerine mixtures have proven to be particularly suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions, the pearl proteins (conchiloin and albuminoid) can be largely in the native state or already partially or largely present as protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to a pearl extract in which conchiolin and albuminoid are already partially hydrolyzed. The essential amino acids of these proteins are glutaxoic acid, serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous if the pearl extract additionally with at least one or more of these Amino acids enriched these amino acids. In the most preferred embodiment, the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine. Furthermore, depending on the extraction conditions, in particular depending on the choice of extractant, a more or less large proportion of minerals and trace elements in the extract is found again. A preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic calcium salts as well as magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates. A most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of the naturally occurring pearls. Examples of erfϊndungsgemäße pearl extracts are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

In the cosmetic compositions, one of the above-described pearl extracts is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight. Preferably, amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 GeW- ¹ M) based on the total cosmetic composition used.

A first class of substances which is necessarily included in the synergistic active ingredient combination (A) according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors as well as their derivatives (K).

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of the Re¬ tinols. According to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters, such as palmitate and acetate, come into consideration as vitamin A components. tions contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a. Vitamin Bi (thiamine)

- Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

- Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition. Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. According to the invention ein¬ settable derivatives of panthenol are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin Bs type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

- Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, the phosphate and the Succinate are included in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6ai?) - 2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c /] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

A second class of substances which, as an alternative to the vitamins and / or vitamin precursors (K), is necessarily contained in the synergistic combination of active substances (A) according to the invention, are plant extracts (L).

Usually these extracts are prepared by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel eV (IKW), Frankfurt. According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, Apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meri¬ stem, ginseng and ginger root.

Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

As extracting agent for the preparation of said plant extracts, water, Al¬ alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction. Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

As a third class of substances, which is included as an alternative to the vitamins, vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) and the plant extracts (L) mandatory in the erfϊndungs according synergistic drug combination (A), are other protein hydrolysates and their derivatives (P).

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which are obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. For example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. are counted among the latter. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline ₅ polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold. According to the invention, the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

Erfmdungs according to it is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P).

The protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight % up to 5% by weight.

An inventively preferred protein (P) in the active ingredient complex A is silk protein. The term silk protein includes the following proteins and protein derivatives:

- native sericin,

hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed SiIk, a mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, isobutyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, in which mixture the serine and / or or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt.%, The aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10 to 40 wt.% And the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt.% Are included, with the proviso that the Amounts of these amino acids and / or their derivatives are preferably added to 100% by weight, native, converted into a soluble form fibroin, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as its main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly Ala-Gly contains, the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, a mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as Hydrochlorides, Sul fate, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture the glycine and / or its derivatives in amounts of 20-60 wt.%, The alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10-40 wt.%, and the tyrosine and its derivatives in Amounts of 0 to 25 wt.% Are included, with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably add up to 100 wt.%, And their mixtures.

It may be preferred according to the invention that one of the two silk proteins, fibroin and / or sericin is used in the native or at most solubilized form. According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several silk proteins.

The derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin according to the invention and the derivatives prepared therefrom can be prepared from the corresponding proteins by a chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic Hydrolysis, be obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silicon, aminoacids, hydroxypropyltrimium hydrolyzed silica, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silica, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, cited by Washington, DC 20036-4702). As typical examples of the anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed silica, sodium lauroyl hydrolyzed silica or sodium stearoyl hydrolyzed silica. Finally, as typical examples of the derivatives of sericin and fibroin which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the products commercially available under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed SiIk and Hydrolyzed SiIk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol. Further usable according to the invention, although not necessarily preferred are the commercially available products with the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed SiIk.

The compositions used according to the invention contain a silk protein and / or its derivative in amounts of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

The fourth class of substances which is contained in the synergistic combination of active substances (A) according to the invention as an alternative to the vitamins, vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) and the plant extracts (L) and the other proteins (P) are the silicone oils (S). Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. First of all, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which, according to the invention, are particularly preferred. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S 1 - 1): (SiOHR ' ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) χ - (SiOHR' ₂ ) (S 1 - 1)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S 1 - II):

R ²

I (SiOHR ' ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) χ - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiOHR ¹ ;,)

I (SiR ² 2 -O-) _z - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) The radicals R ¹ and R are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated KohlenΛvasserstoffrest, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the Dimeticone are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that the dimethiconols can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art become. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

When the dimethiconols of the invention are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles is according to the invention 0.01 micron to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, most preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethiconols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols can be very particularly preferred.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-15OM (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abu OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois FiIs), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation) , Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all aforementioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-SiI CD-I, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Ti Xogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all aforementioned Wacker-Chemie GmbH).

When the dimethiconols (SI) are contained in the base composition, these compositions contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 7.5% by weight, and especially from 0 , 5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconol based on the composition.

According to the invention, however, the use of dimethiconols (S1) in the active substance composition (2) is preferred. This contains the dimethiconols (S1) preferably in amounts of at least 25% by weight, more preferably in amounts of 40% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of at least 70% by weight. In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the dimethiconols (S1) can be used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2).

Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethicones according to the invention can be used both linearly also branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2 - 1): (SiR ¹ _S ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiR'a) (S2 - 1)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2 - II):

R ²

I (SiR ' ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiR ^] ₃ )

I

O - (SiR ² I - O -) z - (SiR ¹ S)

The radicals R and R are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl, benzyl, halocarbyl, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, and the like, and sulfur-containing groups such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl, and the like; preferably R ^! and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ - _s - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -. - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH Z) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

When the dimethicones of the invention are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is O ₅ μm to 10000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very preferably 0.01 to 20 μm and most preferably 0.01 up to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicones are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is from the Ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes determined. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones can be very particularly preferred.

When the dimethicones (S2) are contained in the base composition, these compositions contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and especially 0 , 5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconol based on the composition.

According to the invention, however, the use of the dimethicones (S2) in the active ingredient composition (2) is preferred. This contains the Dimthicone (S2) preferably in amounts of at least 25 wt.%, Particularly preferably in amounts of 40 wt.%, Most preferably in amounts of at least 70 wt.%. In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the dimethicones (S2) can be used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2).

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones. Dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formulas:

(SIRS) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (Sirpe - O -) _y - (SiR _'3) (S3 - 1)

or by the following structural formula:

PE - (SiR ' ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiR' ₂ ) - PE (S3 - II)

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S 3 - III): R ²

I PE - (SiR ^! ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiR ' ₂ ) - PE (S3 - III)

I (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _z - (SiR ' ₂ ) - PE

or by the structural formula (S3 - IV):

R ²

I

(SiR ' ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² PE - O -) _y - (SiR' ₃ ) (S3

IV)

I (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _z - (SiR ' ₃ )

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halogen, vinyl, alkyl vinyl, AlIyI ₅ halogenoallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

When the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are used as emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.0 lμm to 10000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 μm and on most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.

When the dimethicone copolyols (S3) are contained in the base composition, these compositions contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and especially 0 , 5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconecopolyol based on the composition.

However, the use of the dimethicone copolyols (S3) in the active substance composition (2) is preferred according to the invention. This contains the dimethicone copolyols (S3) preferably in amounts of at least 25% by weight, more preferably in amounts of 40% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of at least 70% by weight. In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the dimethicone copolyols (S3) can be used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2).

Aminofunctional silicones, or also called amodimethicones (S4), are silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.

Such silicones can be represented, for example, by the formula (S4-1) M (R _a Q _b SiO _r4-ab) / ₂₎ χ (R _c SiO _(4-c) / ₂₎ y M (S4 - 1)

Will be described, wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, A-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, - CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , - OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) z _z NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) zzNX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is.

Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH 2- In the formulas, "a" values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes values in the range from about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of R _a Q _b S 10 (4 _ab ) / 2 units to the R ₀ SiO ( _4-c y ₂ units ranges from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably about 1 From 15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are employed, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II)

R ^ G _3-3 -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R _{'2-b) m} -O-SiG _3-a-R'a (S4 - II),

contain, in which means:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -

CH (CH _{3) 2,} -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H _3, -CH ₂ CH (CH _{3) 2,} -CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, - C (CH _{3) 3;}

a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

- R 'is a monovalent radical selected from o -N (R ¹ O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - N (R ") ₂ o -N (R") ₂ o -N ⁺ (R ¹ O ₃ ^A' o - N ⁺ H (R ¹ O ₂ A- o -N ⁺ H ₂ (R ¹ OA ⁾ o -N (R ¹ O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R ¹¹ H ₂ A-, where each R "is the same or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the Ci _-20- alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from Chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n [OSi (CH ₃ )] _m - OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (S 4 - III),

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 ., in particular from 1 to 10 assumes. These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Also preferred are agents according to the invention, which are characterized in that they contain an aminofunctional silicone of the formula (S4-IV)

R- [Si (CH _{3) 2} -O] _nl [Si (R) -O] _m - [Si (CH _{3) 2] n2} -R (S4 - IV),

I (CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, nl and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + nl + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 15O , wherein the sum (nl + n2) preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 1 0.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g , The amine number stands for the milliequivalent amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

When the amodimethicones (S4) are contained in the base composition, these compositions contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight, and especially 0 , 5 to 5 wt.% Amodimethicone based on the composition. According to the invention, however, the use of the amodimethicones (S4) in the active ingredient composition C2) is preferred. This contains the amodimethicones (S4) preferably in amounts of at least 15% by weight, more preferably in amounts of 25% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of at least 50% by weight. In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the amodimethicones (S4) can be used as the only component of the active ingredient composition (2).

Of course, the invention also encompasses the finding that a mixture of at least 2 different silicones can be used in the compositions (1 and 2) according to the invention. Preferred mixtures of different silicones are, for example, dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols. A particularly preferred mixture of silicones consists of at least one cyclic dimethiconol and / or dimethicone, at least one further non-cyclic dimethicone and / or dimethiconol and at least one amino-functional silicone. If different silicones are used as a mixture, the mixing ratio is largely variable. Preferably, however, all silicones used for mixing are used in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a binary mixture. A ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture largely in a ratio of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt.%.

When the silicone mixture is contained in the base composition, these compositions contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight, and especially 0.5 to 5% by weight of silicone mixture based on the composition.

According to the invention, however, the use of the mixture of different silicones in the active ingredient composition (2) is preferred. This contains the corresponding mixture preferably in amounts of at least 15% by weight, more preferably in amounts of 25% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of at least 50% by weight. In a most preferred embodiment, the mixture of silicones may be used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2).

With very particular preference, both silicone polymers, dimethiconols and amodimethicones can be used together with the imidazolinium compounds of the formula I. The previously described applies accordingly. The mixing ratio of the two silicone polymers is 99: 1 to 1:99. However, it is preferably from 30: 70 to 70: 30. A very particularly preferred mixing ratio is 1: 1.

According to the invention, preferred compositions contain, based on the weight of the composition, 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5 % By weight of such a mixture of the inventive silicone polymers.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the effect of the active compound complex (A) according to the invention can be further increased by fatty substances (D). Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (DI) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic how the Handelsprodiαkte Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. Preferably, the amount is from 0.5 to 10% by weight, with amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

Fatty alcohols (D2) may be used are saturated, singly or multiply unge¬ saturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C ₃₀ -, preferably C] ₀ - C ₂₂ -, and most preferably Cj ₂ - C ₂₂ - carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or Isocarb 24 for sale. Of course, the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are spielsweise available over the Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1

20% by weight and more preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4), which can increase the action of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention, ^" include, for example:

- vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n -Nodecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The products obtained as commercial loan compounds l, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol gadoleyl alcohol , Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention particularly preferably isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V). Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate. Di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate_ ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate. Propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykol- dicaprylate, symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with Fettalko¬, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC)

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _1n R ¹

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³ in the R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently of one another hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms are provided with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R is an acyl radical and R and R are hydrogen and the sum is (m + n + q) 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used. The amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies used in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and in particular 0.1-15 wt .-%.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

The combination of the active ingredient complex (A) with surfactants (E) has proved to be particularly advantageous. In a further preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention comprise surfactants. The term "surfactants" is understood as meaning surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenzflächen- and Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, Weinheim, 1994". The definition given above can be found from p. 190 in this publication.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can be present in the molecule be. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 ° C. Atoms (soaps),

- Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = O or 1 to 16, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Blends of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-3926 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (II-I),

O

R ¹ COCH ₂ CHa) _n - O - P --OR ² (El-I)

OX in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (II) R ⁷ CO (Al k O) _n SO ₃ M (El-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (El-III) CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x - COR ⁸

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y HI CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) ₂ -SO ₃ X.

(El-III) in the R ⁸ CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X for a Alkali or alkaline earth metal is. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (III-III) in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, are preferably used. DE-Al 42 04 700 or AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990), amide ether carboxylic acids as described in EP 0 690 044, Condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are surface-active compounds which contain in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^ - or -SO / ^"-. * Group carry Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, the cocoalkyl dimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyl- dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline with 8 each A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and for forming internal Salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids. N-alkyl aminobutyric acids. N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-

Alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholy- diagram surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, propiorxat the aminopropionate and C] ₂ - C ₈ - sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as the type available under the commercial names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis),

- C ₂ -C i ettsäuremono- ₃₀ -F and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol,

A.nlagerungsprodukte of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated Rizi¬ nusöl,

- polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),

alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

R ^] CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (E4-I)

in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} for linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is from 1 to 20, amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with Zuckerfettsäure¬ ester,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to formula (E4-II),

R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature is here on the review by Biermann et al. in Starch / Stärke 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995).

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of monoglycerides and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer, and Here, especially the values p = 1 to 6 can assume, the value p for a certain alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preferably, alkyl and / or Alkenyloligoglykoside having a mean degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 used up to 3.0. From an application point of view, such alkyl and / or Alkenyloligoglykoside are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1, 2 and 1, 4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 1 1, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C ₈ -C ₀ (DP = 1 to 3) contaminated, which are obtained as first runnings in the separation of technical C ₈ -Cig-coconut fatty alcohol with a content of less than 6 wt .-% Cn-alcohol and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical Cg _/ n-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _{2 /} i ₄ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),

R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (E4-III)

in the R ⁵ CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are customary can be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a Fetts ααxechlorid. With regard to the processes for their preparation, reference may be made to US Pat. Nos. 1,985,424, 2,016,962 and 2,703,798 and international patent application WO 92/06984. An overview of this topic by H.Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988). Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing ones. Sugars with 5 or 6 Kohlenstoff¬ atoms, in particular from the glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):

R ⁷ CO-NR ⁸ -CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ -CH ₂ OH CE4-IV)

Glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R represents hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ⁷ CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid are preferably used as the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides , Isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

Preferred nonionic surfactants which have proven to be the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-Myrϊstyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

Furthermore, very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These may preferably be contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products having a "normal" homolog distribution and those having a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologues which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Restricted homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of Ethercarbonsäuren, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,

Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammo- niumchlorid, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and Tricetylmethylarnmoniumchlo- rid, as well as under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83-known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products "are sold for example under the trademark Stepantex ^®, Dehyquart ^® and Arrnocare ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-Palmitoyloxy- ethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart® ^® L80 and Dehyquart® ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats. The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A Erfin dung particularly suitable according to compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The cationic surfactants (E5) are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be erfmdungs according to preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenzflächen- und Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, Weinheim, 1994". Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group , C ₂ -C 22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as Zuc¬ kerkomponente are preferred,

Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example, in the Han¬ del available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated zincbenzene oil,

Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g., soybean beans) are understood. Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product)

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

As further advantageous, it has been shown that polymers (G) can support the action of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention are therefore added to polymers, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven effective.

Cationic polymers (G1) are polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "polymers which are permanently cationic" are polymers which, independently of the pH of the agent, have a cationic group. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 -hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. Homopolymers of the general formula (GI-I), R ¹

- [CH ₂ -CJ _n X ^" (Gl-I)

CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _m -N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴

in which R ^{1 is} -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units stirred in formula (GI-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers those according to the invention are preferred for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R ¹ is a methyl group R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^" are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of polyoleic unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methyl enbisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent. The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such Polymer¬ are dispersions under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, wei¬ tere components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene pylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG l trideceth-6)) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: a mixture of diesters of Propylengly- KOL with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene glycolic col Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-I -Trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers containing monomer units according to formula (Gl-I) as non-ionic monomer, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-Ci-4-alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-Ci- ₄ -alkyl. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

Other preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and polyvinyl lymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives

- cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosme- dia ^® guar and Jaguar ^®, Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized Trimethylsilylamodi- methicone), Dow Corning ^® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone) , SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80), polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are available under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, as they are among the drawings Be¬ Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552 offered, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers, the voltages among the Bezeich¬ Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200) mers known Poly. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are. Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which is present at certain pH values as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. Preferably, for example, are chitosan and its derivatives, such as 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB /.

Erfindungsgernäß preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey Deri¬ derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or KLeratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example may be derived from fish collagen or algae, or ^"protein hydrolysates biotechnologically obtained. the protein hydrolysates the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be prepared from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination obtained from both types of hydrolysis The hydrolysis of proteins generally results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons Preferred are those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content is a molecular weight from 100 to 250OO daltons, preferably from 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore you can the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, ^" NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products. Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conc hiolin protein. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxy Propyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium 79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

The anionic polymers (G2) which can support the action of the active substance complex (A) according to the invention are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers constituting such polymers are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as sole or co-monomer have been found to be particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name IRheothik ^® l 1-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the abovementioned substances. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-Acrylaxnid copolymers and insbe¬ special polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt is present. This copolymer can also be present in crosslinked form, with polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide preferably being used as crosslinking agents. Such a polymer is SEPPIC ent hold in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305th The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Cπ-Cπ-Isoparaffm) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proven to be particularly vor¬ geous within the scope of the inventive teaching.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A cross-linked with 1, 9-Decadiene-maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers for increasing the activity of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention. Under the term amphoteric polymers are both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming inner salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers containing in the molecule quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^' - or -SOs ^' groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of a erfmdungsgemäß amphopolymer suitable for use is sold under the Be¬ drawing Amphomer ^® available acrylic resin which is a copolymer of ethyl methacrylate tert-butylamino, N- (1, 1,3, 3 -Tetram ethylbutyl) acrylamide, and two or more mono ¬ mers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.

Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Publication 2,104,091, European Offenlegungsschrift 47,714, European Offenlegungsschrift 217,274, European Offenlegungsschrift 283,817 and German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369.

Preferred amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially of one another

(a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2π ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ⁰ (G3-) I) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer Number from 2 to 5 and

A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups. These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers, reference is expressly made to the content of German Offenlegungsschrift 39 29 973. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{w is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion ; Acrylamido-propyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers, as are marketed, for example under the Waren¬ sign Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy- as they are for example sold under the trademark Culminal® uad Benecel ^® (AQUALON). shellac

- polyvinylpyrrolidones, as, for example, sold under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Suitable are both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes, which are understood as nichtflücli- term siloxanes those compounds whose boiling point is Normal¬ pressure above 200 ⁰ C. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyaryl siloxanes. phenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxy groups. - Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 Bl.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the effect of the active substance complex (A) by UV filter (I) can be increased. The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N ₅ N ₉ N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsilicylate (homosalates ), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (benzophenone-3: Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium - and triethanolamine (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (l, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7- dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-methylaminobenzoic acid di- 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® e 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan ^® AV ), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-Methylbenzyli - dene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-Ben cylidene-camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1,3,5-triazine, 3 Imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), l, l '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2 ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic benzoic acid-menthyl ester ( menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydropyran droxybenzophenon (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxyben- zophenon ( Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N ₅ N ₅ N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (l, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2. 1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2 Oxoborn-3-ylidene) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3 - (4'-methyl- benzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-tri- anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1,3,5 triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4- methoxyphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Preference is given to UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect on such water-soluble compounds, which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. Within the scope of the invention, water-insoluble UV filters are to be understood as being dissolved in water at 20 ^° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. In principle, this group can be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and which contain a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV radical. Filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function.

Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example, substituted benzophenones,

p-aminobenzoic acid ester,

- Diphenylacrylsäureester, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Structural parts U, which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide, are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters having an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which acts as a compound between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _X -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^' , where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a Ci. ₂₂ alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable anion. Within this general structure, x is preferably the number 3, R ¹ and R ² are each a methyl group and R ³ is either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated , linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and also organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the compounds keeps handy er¬ as commercial products cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (quat Incro- ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred. The effect of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention can furthermore be increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C] - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if, in addition to the erfmdungsgemäßen active ingredient complex (A) penetration aids and / or swelling agent (M) are included. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

Advantageously in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) may additionally support the active substance complex (A). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain. The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amido-dim, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids according to the invention may, of course, be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl , Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in α - position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxyl, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are also the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid , Crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid. Toluoic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-

Carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1, 2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalene-pentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by compounds of general formula (NI),

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) formally by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) are known in the literature.

A production process can be found, for example, in US Pat. No. 3,753,968. German Patent 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap masses. German Offenlegungsschrift 28 33 291 discloses deodorizing agents which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids. Finally, from German Patent Application 35 03 618 means for washing and rinsing the hair are known in which by adding these dicarboxylic acids a noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the means is obtained. Finally, from German Patent Application 197 54 053 means for hair treatment are known which have nourishing effects. The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually one will assume a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component. Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils. Acrylic acid, but also, for example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are particularly preferred as the monocarboxylic acid component. Normally, in the case of reactions according to Diels-Alder, mixtures of isomers are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.

In addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI), those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds according to formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of one molecule of water are also usable according to the invention be formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid 1595 ^® (manufacturer: "Westvaco).

In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also includes the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts. However, in the context of the invention, neutralized acids can very particularly preferably be used with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. Furthermore, it may be off Forniulierungsgründen be preferred to select the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

It is furthermore preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and in turn, in particular, the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together with the active compound (A). It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters which are suitable are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

The active substance complex (A) according to the invention can in principle be added directly to the colorant, the corrugating agent or the fixation. However, the application of the active substance complex to the keratinic fiber can also take place in a separate step, either before or after the actual dyeing or corrugating process. Separate treatments, optionally also days or weeks before or after the hair treatment, for example by dyeing or waves, are encompassed by the teaching according to the invention. Preferably, however, the application of the active substance complex according to the invention after the corresponding hair treatment such as dyeing or waves can be carried out in particular in the corresponding hair treatment compositions. The term dyeing process comprises all processes known to those skilled in the art, in which a colorant is applied to the hair, which may have been moistened, and this is left on the hair either for a period of a few minutes to about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent is rinsed or left completely on the hair. It is in this context explicitly on the known monographs, z. BKH Schrader, Basics and Formulations of Cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publisher, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced, which represent the ent-speaking knowledge of the skilled person.

The term "corrugating process" encompasses all processes known to the person skilled in the art in which a corrugating agent is applied to the hair, which may have been moistened and wound on curlers, and this is left on the hair either for a period of a few minutes to about 45 minutes and then is rinsed with water or a surfactant-containing agent, then a permanent wave fixation is applied to the hair and this left for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes on the hair and then rinsed with water or a surfactant-containing agent. It is in this context explicitly on the known monographs, z. B. K. H. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced that reflect the relevant knowledge of the expert.

With regard to the manner in which the active ingredient complex according to the invention is applied to the keratinic fiber, in particular human hair, there are no fundamental restrictions. For example, creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (known as phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, Sprays, aerosols and Schaumaerosole geeig¬ net. The pH value of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 5 and 11, with values of 6 to 10 being particularly preferred. For the adjustment of this pH, virtually any acid or base which can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

Preparations remaining on the hair have proven to be effective and can therefore represent preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention. According to the invention, hair-remaining preparations are understood as meaning those preparations which are not rinsed out of the hair within the scope of the treatment after a period of a few seconds to one hour with the aid of water or an aqueous solution. Rather, the preparations remain until the next shampooing, i. usually more than 12 hours, on the hair.

According to a second preferred embodiment, these preparations are formulated as a hair conditioner or hair conditioner. The preparations of the invention according to this embodiment can be rinsed with water or an at least predominantly aqueous agent after this exposure time; however, they may be left on the hair as stated above. It may be preferred to apply the preparation according to the invention to the hair before the application of a cleansing agent, a waving agent or other hair treatment agents. In this case, the preparation according to the invention serves as a structural protection for the following applications.

According to further preferred embodiments, however, the agents according to the invention may also be, for example, cleansing agents such as shampoos, nourishing agents such as rinses, firming agents such as hair setting agents, mousses, styling gels and hair drier, permanent shaping agents such as perming and fixing agents and in particular in the context of a perming process or dyeing process used pre-treatment or rinsing act. In addition to the inventively mandatory active ingredient complex (A) and the other preferred components mentioned above, these preparations may in principle contain all other components known to the person skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions.

Further active agents, auxiliaries and additives are, for example, nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes, thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabicum , Karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, eg. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,

hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as bei¬ for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, isobutyl Pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-ethyl-pentyl n-octyl ether,

Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms,

Monoesters of C8 to C30 - fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms,

fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, - Conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil as well

Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,

Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,

Cholesterol,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

- fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,

Fatty acid alkanolamides,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, swelling and penetrating agents such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments,

Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cystine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

- antioxidants.

With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. For example, the above monograph by K. H. Schrader referenced.

In a fourth embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it may be preferable to incorporate the active substance complex (A) directly into a dyeing or toning agent, that is to use the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention in combination with dyes and / or dye precursors. As such, oxidation dye precursors of the developer (Bl) and coupler type (B2), natural and synthetic substantive dyes (C) and precursors of naturally occurring dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups can be used ,

As oxidation dye precursors of the developer type (B1) are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, Diaminopyridinderivate, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2, 4,5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl ) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-dia-minopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-amino-phenol, bis- (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) -methyl) -phenol, bis ( 2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, 1, 4-bis (4-aminophenyl) -diazacycloheptane, 1, 3-bis (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2-propanol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 1, 10-bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives according to EP 0 740 741 or WO 94/08970 such. For example, 4,5-diamino-l- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine. As the coupler type oxidation dye precursors (B2), m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used. Examples of such coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-metb.ylpb.enol, 2 -Hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy 2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3 - (ethylamino) -4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, l, 3-bis- (2,4 -dia-minophenoxy) -propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) ben2θl, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2 -hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid e and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene, di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, Pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,

Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3 , 4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8- Dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine, quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as 1 -Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one. Indole derivatives such as, for example, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, 1-hydroxy-3,4- methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3, 4-methylenedioxybenzene.

Particularly suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1, 4-bis- (β- hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino 6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

Directly acting dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkana root.

It is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the inventive hair colorants, due to the production process for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded. With regard to the dyes which can be used in the hair-dyeing and tinting compositions according to the invention, reference is expressly made to the monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, Chapter 7 (pages 248-250, direct dyes) and Chapter 8, pages 264-267; Oxidation dye precursors), published as Volume 7 of the series "Dermatology" (Editor: Ch., Culnan and H. Maibach), published by Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, and the European Inventory of Cosmetic Raw Materials ", published by the European Community, available in floppy disk form from the Federal Association of German Industrial and Trading Companies for Pharmaceuticals, Reform Goods and Personal Care, Mannheim.

For example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes. Preference is given to using those indoles and indolines which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxy-indoline, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and also 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6- dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminomedol.

Particularly noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxy-indoline and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular 5, 6-dihydroxyindole. The indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg. As the hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides are used.

When dye precursors of the indoline or indole type are used, it may be preferable to use them together with at least one amino acid and / or at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids. Among the α-aminocarboxylic acids, in turn, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are particularly preferred. A very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.

Both the oxidation dye precursors and the substantive dyes and the precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition, contain.

Hair dyes, especially when the dyeing is oxidative, whether with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually adjusted to slightly acidic to alkaline, ie to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11. For this purpose, the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group. The use of ω-amino acids such as ω-aminocaproic acid as alkalizing agent is also possible. If the actual hair dyes are formed in the course of an oxidative process, it is possible to use conventional oxidizing agents, in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine or sodium borate. However, oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant may be preferred. Furthermore, it is possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes, the enzymes being used both for the production of oxidizing per-compounds and for enhancing the effect of a small amount of existing oxidizing agents, or enzymes which contain electrons are also used from geeig¬ Neten developer components (reducing agent) transferred to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred. Furthermore, mention should be made of the procedure of increasing the effect of small amounts (for example 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by means of peroxidases.

Conveniently, the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10. The use of the hair colorants in a weakly alkaline medium is particularly preferred. The application temperatures may be 15 to 40 ⁰ C in a range ZΛvischen, preferably at the temperature of the scalp, are. After a contact time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.

Especially with hair that is difficult to color, the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if appropriate after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes, the product is then rinsed and, if desired, shampooed again. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors is intended to effect a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to a second variant, an air oxidation is initially desired, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated post-oxidation, the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions may be preferred as the oxidizing agent.

Furthermore, the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of the dyeing can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

A fifth object of the invention are cosmetic compositions containing: a. the active substance complex (A) b. and a compound selected from the group of surfactants (E) and / or polymers (G).

For further components of these means, reference is made to the above.

A sixth aspect of the invention is a method for the treatment of skin or hair in which an agent is applied to the fibers with the active ingredient complex (A) of the invention as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, the agent optionally after a reaction time of Rinsed again for 1 to 45 minutes. Examples

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight.

1. Proof of effect

To carry out the comparative experiments, the hairs of the subjects were parted in the middle. On each half of the head, 5 - 7 ml of the respective solutions of the active ingredients were added to towel damp, ie slightly wet hair, and massaged in. The products of Table 1 were tested and assessed in the half-page test on ten models, each with different hair quality, by four trained experts each. The criteria were used to assess the Naßkämmbarlceit that dry combing, the grip in the wet hair, the grip on dry hair, the ^"volume and the hair shine.

Table 1: Formulations of the comparative test: (all ϊvgengenangaben in wt.%

The results are summarized in Table 2. In conclusion, it is clear that only the active ingredient mixture (A) according to the invention gives a clear synergistic increase in the effect in comparison to the individual components.

Table 2: Results of the half-page test:

2. Application examples

1. Hair Conditioner Eumulgin ^® B2 ¹ 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3.3 1.0 Promois Crodarom Pearl ^® Siik - 1000 0.7 isopropyl myristate 0.5 Lamesoft ^® PO ⁴ 65 0.5 Dehyquart ^® A-CA ² 2.0 Salcare ^® SC 96 ⁵ 1.0 citric acid 0.4 Gluadin ^®6 W40 2.0

Pyridoxine 1, 0

Tartaric acid 0.7

^Phenonip®3 0.8

Water ad 100

' ^• Cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)

² 'trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride about 25% active ingredient (INCI name:

Cetrimonium Chloride) (Cognis) ³ 'hydroxybenzoate-hydroxybenzoate-hydroxybenzoic säurepropylester-hydroxybenzoate-phenoxyethanol mixture (approximately 28%

Active substance; INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben,

Propylparaben, butylparaben) (NIPA) ⁴ "Mixture of alkylpolyglycoside and fatty acid monoglyceride (INCI name:

Coco-glucosides (and) glyceryl oleates) ⁵ "N, N _J N-trimethyl-2 [(methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] ethanaminium chloride homopolymer (50% active ingredient; INCI name: Polyquaternium -37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprilate dicaprate (and) PPG-I trideceth-6) (ALLIED COLLOIDS) ⁶ "wheat protein hydrolyzate approx. 40% active ingredient (INCI name: Hydrolyzed

Wheat protein) (COGNIS)

2. Hair conditioner

Eumulgin ^® B2 0.3

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 3,3

Isopropyl myristate 0.5

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3

Dehyquart ^® L 80 ⁷ 0.4

Lamesoft ^® 65 1.5 PO

Cosmedia Guar ^® C 261 ⁸ 1.5

Promois® ^® MEECH-CAQ ⁹ 3.0

Citric acid 0.4

Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed SiCl 2.0

Pearl Protein Extract BG 1.5

Poly-L-serine 0.5

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

^7- bis (cocoylethyl) -hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium methosulfate (about 76% active substance in propylene glycol; INCI name: dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, propylene glycol) (COGNIS)

⁸ 'guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; INCI name: Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride (COGNIS)

⁹ 'INCI name: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein (SEIWA KASEI)

3rd hair cure

Dehyquart ^® F75 ¹⁰ 4.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 4.0

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 1, 5

Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 4.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 1.0 PO Salcare ^® SC 96 1.5

Sericin 0.1

Panthenol 0.4

Crodarom Pearl 2.5

Glyoxylic acid 0.5

Amisafe-LMA-60 ^® "1.0

Gluadin ^® W 20 ¹² 3.0

Germall ^® 115 ¹³ 1.0

Citric acid 0, 15

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

¹ ° "fatty alcohols-methyltriethanolammonium methylsulfate dialkyl ester mixture (INCI name: distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol)

(COGNIS) ⁿ 'INCI name Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl (Ajinomoto) ¹² Wheat protein hydrolyzate (20% active ingredient in water, INCI name: Aqua

(and) Hydrolysed Wheat Protein (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)

Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben) (COGNIS) ¹³ 'INCI name: Imidazolidinyl urea (Sutton Laboratories)

4th hair cure

Dehyquart ^® L80 2.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 6.0

Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 2.0

Rewoquat ^® W 75 ^H 2.0

Cosmedia Guar C261 0.5

Lamesoft ^® 65 0.5 PO

Sepigel ^® 305 ¹⁵ 3.5

Honeyquat ^® 50 ¹⁶ 1.0

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.5 Gluadin® ^® W 20 3.0

Hydrolyzed sericin 0.8

Pantolactone 0.4

Crodarom Pearl 1, 0

Vitamin E 0.2

Citric acid 0.15

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Water ad 100

¹⁴ 'l-Methyl-2-nortalgalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate (about 75% active ingredient in propylene glycol, INCI name: Quaternium-27, propylene glycol) (WITCO)

^15- Copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (INCI name: polyacrylamides (and) C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffm (and) laureth-7) (SEPPIC)

¹⁶ "INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey (BROOKS)

5th hair cure

Dehyquart ^® F75 0.3

Salcare ^® SC 96 5.0

Gluadin® ^® WQ 1.5

Lamesoft ^® 65 0.5 PO

Dow ^Corning® 200 Fluid, 5 cSt. ¹⁷ 1, 5

Gafquat ^® 755N ¹⁸ 1.5

Pearl Protein Extract BG 1, 5

Panthenol 0.5

Glycine methyl ester 0.5

Tyrosine methyl ester 0.2

Sericin ^■ 0.2

Biodocarb® ¹⁹ 0.02

Perfume oil 0.25

Water ad 100 ^π> Polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone) (DOW CORNING) ^' Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (19% active substance in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-1 1)

(GAF) ¹⁹ '3-iodo-2-propynyl-n-butylcarbamate (INCI name: iodopropynyl butylcarbamate)

(MILKER & GREENING)

6. Hair cure

Sepigel ^® 305 5.0

Dow Corning ^® Q2-5220 ²⁰ 1.5

Promois ^® Milk Q ²¹ 3.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 0.5 PO

Polymer Pl according to DE 3929173 0.6

Genamin DSAC ^{® 22} 0.3

Crodarom Pearl 1.8

Panthenol 0.5

Promois Siik ^® 1000 1.0

Biotin 0.3

Phenonip ^® 0.8

Perfume oil 0.25

Water ad 100

^{2 <κ} silicone glycol copolymer (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol) (DOW CORNING)

^{21 <} INCI name hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed casein ca. 30% active substance (SEIWA KASEI)

²⁷ "Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium chloride) (CLARIANT)

7. Shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO ²³ 40.0 Dehyton ^® G ²⁴ 6.0

Polymer JR ^400®25 0.5

Cetiol ^® HE ²⁶ 0.5

Ajidew NL ^® 50 ²⁷ 1.0

Lamesoft® PO 65 3.0

Sericin 0.8

Promois Siik ^® 1000 2.0

Gluadin ^® WQT ²⁸ 2.5

Gluadin ^® W 20 0.5

Panthenol (50%) 0.3

Crodarom Pearl 2.0

Vitamin E 0.1

Vitamin H 0.1

Glutamic acid 0.2

Citric acid 0.5

Sodium benzoate 0.5

Partum 0.4

NaCl 0.5

Water ad 100

^23> Sodium lauryl ether sulfate approx. 28% active ingredient (INCI name: Sodium

Laureth Sulfate) (COGNIS) ^24- INCI name: Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, about 30% active ingredient in water)

(COGNIS) ²⁵ "Quaternized Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium-10)

(UNION CARBIDE)

^26- Polyol fatty acid esters (INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) (COGNIS) ²⁷ "Sodium salt of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid (50% active ingredient: INCI name: Sodium PCA) (AJINOMOTO ) ²⁸ "INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (COGNIS) 8. Shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® NSO 43.0

Dehyton ^® K ²⁹ 10.0

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP ³⁰ 4.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 2.5 PO

Euperlan ^® PK 3000 ³¹ 1.6

Arquad ^® 316 ³² 0.8

Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3

Gluadin WQ ^® 4.0

Lauryldimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silica 3.0

Pearl Protein Extract BG 3.0

Sericin 10.0

Lactic acid 0.5

Hydro Lupine ^® AA ³³ 0.5

Malic acid 0.5

Glucamate DOE 120 ^® 0.5 ³³

Sodium chloride 0.2

Water ad 100

²⁹ "INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Betaine approx. 30% active ingredient (COGNIS)

³⁰ - C 12 - C 16 fatty alcohol glycoside approx. 50% active ingredient (INCI name: Lauryl

Glucoside) (COGNIS) ³¹ "Liquid dispersion of pearlescing substances and amphoteric surfactant (about 62%

Active substance; CTFA name: Glycol Distearate (and) Glycerin (and) Laureth-4

(and) cocoamidopropyl betaine) (COGNIS) ^32> tri-C _j g -alkylmethylammonium chloride (AKZO)

^33- Amino acid ^mixture obtained by total hydrolysis of lupine protein, (INCI name Lupine Amino Acids) (CRODA)

^34- etthhooxxyylliureerrtteess M Meetthhyyllgglluuccooside dioleate (CTFA name: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) (AMERCHOL) 9. Shampoo

Texapon ^® N 70 ³⁵ 21.0

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 8.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 3.0 PO

Gluadin® ^® WQ 1.5

Panthenol 1.5

Crodarom Pearl 1, 0

Niacinamide 0.5

Biotin 0.5

Cutina EGMS ^{® 36} 0.6

Honeyquat 50 ^® 2.0

Ajidew NL ^® 50 2.8

Antil ^® 141 ³⁷ 1.3

^{Crolastin®38} 1.0

Sodium, chloride 0.2

Magnesium hydroxide ad pH 4.5

Water ad 100

^35- sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 moles EO approx. 70% active substance (INCI name:

Sodium laureth sulfate) (COGNIS) ³⁶ 'ethylene glycol monostearate (about 25-35% monoester, 60-70% diester;

INCL designation: glycol stearate) (COGNIS) ³⁷ "polyoxyethylene propylene glycol dioleate (40% active ingredient; INCI name:

Propylene glycol (and) PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate) (GOLDSCHMIDT) ^3S - elastin hydrolyzate (INCI name: Hydrolyzed elastin) (CRODA)

10. Shampoo

Texapon ^® K 14 S ³⁹ 50.0

Dehyton ^® K 10.0

Plantacare ^® 818 UP ⁴⁰ 4.5 Lamesoft ^® 65 2.0 PO

Pearl Protein Extract BG 5.0

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-2 2,5

Polymer P 1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.6

Cutina ^® AGS ⁴¹ 2.0

D-panthenol 0.5

Glucose 1, 0

Hydrosesame ^® AA ⁴² 0.8

Salicylic acid 0.4

Sodium chloride 0.5

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.0

Water ad 100

³⁹ 'Natriumlaurylmyristylethersulfat about 28% active ingredient (INCI name: Sodium

Myreth Sulfate) (COGNIS) ⁴⁰ - C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol glycoside approx. 50% active ingredient (INCI name: Coco

Glucosides) (COGNIS) ^4U ethylene glycol stearate (about 5-15% monoester, 85-95% diester, INCI name:

Glycol Distearate) (COGNIS) ^42- INCI - Name: Water (and) Sesame Amino Acids (CRODA)

11. Hair cure

Celquat ^® L 200 ⁴³ 0.6

Luviskol ^® K30 ⁴⁴ 0.2

D-panthenol 0.5

Polymer Pl, according to DE 39 29 973 0.6

Dehyquart ^® _A-5 O CA I

Lamesoft ^® 65 0.5 PO

Hydrosoy ^® 2000 ⁴⁵ 1.0

Aspartic acid 0.3

Pearl Protein Extract BG 2.0 Biotin 0.3

Niacinamide 0.3

Promois® ^® Siik 1000 5.0

Gluadin ^® W 40 1.0

Natrosol ^® 250 HR ⁴⁶ 1.1

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.0

Water ad 100

^43- quaternized cellulose derivative (95% active substance, CTFA name: Polyquaternium-4) (DELFT NATIONAL)

⁴⁴ - Polyvinylpyrrolidone (95% active substance, CTFA name: PVP) (BASF)

⁴⁵ 'Protein hydrolyzate from soya (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein) (CRODA) ^46> Hydroxyethylcellulose (AQUALON)

12. Dye cream

Ci ₂ -i ₈ -fatty alcohol 1,2

Lanette ^® 0 ⁴⁷ 4.0

Eumulgin ^® B 2 0.8

Cutina ^® KD 16 ⁴⁸ 2.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 4.0 PO

Sodium sulfite 0.5

L (+) - ascorbic acid 0.5

Ammonium sulfate 0.5

1, 2-propylene glycol 1, 2

Polymer ^JR® 400 0.3 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85

2-methylresorcinol 0.14

6-methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42

Cetiol OE ^{® 49} 0.5

Honeyquat 50 ^® 1.0

Ajidew NL ^® 50 1.2

Gluadin® ^® WQ 1, 0

Crosilk ^Liquid®50 0.5

Crodarom Pearl 1, 5

Sericin 0.3

Ammonia 1.5

Water ad 100

^47> Cetylstearyl alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS)

⁴⁸ 'Self-emulsifying mixture of mono- / diglycerides of higher saturated fatty acids with potassium stearate (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate SE) (COGNIS) ⁴⁹ - Di-n-octyl ether (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether) (COGNIS) ^{50 '} Mixture of amino acids obtained by total hydrolysis of silk protein (INCI name: SiIk Amino Acids) (CRODA)

13. Developer dispersion for dyeing cream 12 Texapon ^® NSO 2.1 Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 12.0 Turpinal SL ^{® 51} 1.7 Latekoll ^® D ⁵² 12.0 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 2.0 Gluadin WQ 0.3 Salcare ^{® ®} SC 96 I ₅ O aspartic acid 0.1 0.2 S ericin Promois Siik ^® 1000 0.4 Crodarom Pearl 0.8 water ad 100

^{S1 <} 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (60% active ingredient; INCI name:

Etidronic Acid) (COGNIS) ⁵² "Acrylic Ester-Methacrylic Acid Copolymer (25% Active) (BASF)

14. Tinting shampoo

Texapon.RTM ^® N 70 14.0

Dehyton ^® K 10.0

Akypo ^® RLM 45 NV ⁵³ 14.7

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP 4.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 3.0 PO

Polymer P 1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.3

Cremophor ^® RH 40 ⁵⁴ 0.8

Pearl Protein Extract BG 0.8

Hydrolyzed sericin 0.3 Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed SiIk 3.0

Benzoic acid 0.3

Panthenol 0.3

Dye CI. 12,719 0.02

Dye CI. 12,251 0.02

Dye CI. 12 250 0.04

Dye CL 56 059 0.03

Preservation 0.25

Perfume oil q.s.

Eutanol ^® G ⁵⁵ 0.3

Gluadin WQ ^® 1.0

Honeyquat 50 ^® 1.0

Salcare ^® SC 96 0.5

Water ad 100

^{53- Lauryl} alcohol + 4.5 ethylene oxide-acetic acid sodium salt (20.4% active ingredient)

(CHEM-Y) ^S4 'castor oil, hydrogenated + 45 ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-40 Hydrogenated

Castor OiI) (BASF) ^{55 <} 2-Octyldodecanol (Guerbet alcohol) (INCI name: Octyidodecanol)

(Cognis)

15. Cream duration wave Wellcreme

Plantacare ^® 810 UP ⁵⁶ 5.0

Thioglycolic acid 8.0

Tuφinal ^® SL 0.5

Ammonia (25%) 7.3

Ammonium carbonate 3.0

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 5.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 0.5 PO Guerbet Alcohol 4.0

Salcare ^® SC 96 3.0

Gluadin WQ ^® 2.0

Hydrolyzed sericin 0.3

Pearl Protein Extract BG 1, 0

Glutaric acid 0.2

Hydrotriticum ^® 2000 ⁵⁷ 0.5

Perfume oil q.s. Water ad 100

^{S6 <} C ₈ -Cio-alkylglucoside with degree of oligomerization 1.6 (about 60% active substance)

(COGNIS) ^57> Wheat protein hydrolyzate (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein)

(CRODA) fixative solution

Plantacare ^® 810 UP 5.0 hydrogenated castor oil 2.0

Lamesoft ^® 65 1.0 PO

Potassium bromate 3,5

Nitrilotriacetic acid 0.3

Citric acid 0.2

Merquat ^® 550 ⁵⁸ 0.5

Hydagen HCMF ^{® 59} 0.5

Tartaric acid 0.5

Gluadin WQ ^® 0.5

Crodarom Pearl 2.0

Hydrolyzed sericin 0.1

Pantolactone 0.3

Perfume oil qs water ad 100 Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer (8% active ingredient, INCI

Name: Polyquarternium 7) (MOBIL OIL) - Chitosan powder (INCI name: Chitosan) (COGNIS)

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic preparations comprising an active substance complex A consisting of a pearl extract and at least one further compound selected from i) at least one vitamin and / or at least one vitamin precursor and / or a derivative of the vitamins and / or vitamin precursor (K), ii) at least one plant extract (L), iii) at least one further protein and / or at least one further protein hydrolyzate (P) and iv) at least one silicone compound (S).

2. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that further comprises a compound selected from the group of surfactants (E) and / or the group of polymers (G) is included.

3. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 2, characterized in that the surfactant is selected from the group of cationic surfactants.

4. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 2, characterized in that the polymer is selected from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

5. Use of a preparation according to one of claims 1 to 4 for the cleaning and / or care of skin and hair.

6. Use of a preparation according to one of claims 1 to 4 for the restructuring of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.

7. A method for the treatment of skin or hair, wherein a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 4 is applied to the fibers, wherein the preparation is rinsed out again after a contact time of 1 to 45 minutes.