EP1694287A1 - Preparation cosmetique a etaler, presentant une haute teneur en eau - Google Patents

Preparation cosmetique a etaler, presentant une haute teneur en eau

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Publication number
EP1694287A1
EP1694287A1 EP04803265A EP04803265A EP1694287A1 EP 1694287 A1 EP1694287 A1 EP 1694287A1 EP 04803265 A EP04803265 A EP 04803265A EP 04803265 A EP04803265 A EP 04803265A EP 1694287 A1 EP1694287 A1 EP 1694287A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
preparation according
silicon dioxide
water
preparation
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP04803265A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Steffen Hasenzahl
Alfred Braunagel
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Evonik Operations GmbH
Original Assignee
Degussa GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Degussa GmbH filed Critical Degussa GmbH
Publication of EP1694287A1 publication Critical patent/EP1694287A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q11/00—Preparations for care of the teeth, of the oral cavity or of dentures; Dentifrices, e.g. toothpastes; Mouth rinses
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a spreadable cosmetic preparation of a cream-like consistency, its production and use.
  • cosmetic preparations such as creams, lotions, pastes, mousse, etc. generally contain larger amounts of cosmetic oils and / or emulsifiers.
  • Cosmetic products with a higher oil content are particularly unsuitable for oily skin types or, for example, skin affected by blackheads, pimples or acne.
  • formulations containing emulsifiers can lead to an allergic reaction.
  • the object of the invention is therefore to provide an application form which reduces the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a method for this form of application.
  • the invention relates to a spreadable cosmetic preparation of creamy or pasty consistency containing - 50-95% by weight of water, hydrophobized silicon dioxide powder, at least one water-soluble or cosmetically relevant active ingredient or auxiliary which is dispersible or emulsifiable in an aqueous medium and a viscosity regulator.
  • the water content can preferably be between 75 and 90% by weight.
  • hydrophobicized silicon dioxide powder is not restricted as long as it is ensured that when it is added to water, an initially powdery product is formed. No preparations according to the invention can be produced without the presence of hydrophobized silicon dioxide powder. Rather, low-viscosity solutions or dispersions are created that are not sufficiently stable.
  • the hydrophobized silicon dioxide powders can preferably be silanized. Halosilanes, alkoxysilanes, silazanes and / or siloxanes can be used for the silanization. In particular, the following substances can be used as halosilanes:
  • Halogenorganosilanes of the type (R) X2Si (CH2) m - R ' with x Cl »
  • R alkyl
  • m 0.1-20
  • R ' alkyl
  • aryl for example -C 6 H 5
  • -C4F9 alkyl
  • -OCF -CHF-CF 3 -CgF ⁇ , -0-CF 2 -CHF 2 /
  • alkoxysilanes the following substances can be used as alkoxysilanes:
  • trimethoxyoctylsilane (CH3O) 3-Si-C8H ⁇ 7 ] (for example
  • Hexamethyldisilazane for example DYNASYLAN ® HMDS
  • siloxanes the following substances can be used as siloxanes:
  • Cyclic polysiloxanes of the types D 3, D 4, D 5, for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane D 4
  • the silanization can be carried out by spraying the silicon dioxide with the silanizing agent, which can optionally be dissolved in an organic solvent, such as ethanol, and the silanizing agent.
  • the mixture was then thermally treated at a temperature of 105 to 400 ° C. for a period of 1 to 6 h.
  • the hydrophobized silicon dioxide powders preferably have a methanol wettability of at least 40.
  • 0.2 g ( ⁇ 0.005 g) of hydrophobic silicon dioxide powder is weighed into transparent centrifuge tubes. 8.0 ml of a methanol / water mixture with 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 and 80 vol .-% methanol are added to each sample. The sealed tubes are shaken for 30 seconds and then centrifuged for 5 minutes at 2500 min -1 . The sediment volumes are read, converted into percent and plotted against the methanol content (% by volume). The turning point of the curve corresponds to the wettability by methanol.
  • the silicon dioxide powders hydrophobicized with octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, octylsilane and / or hexamethyldisilazane can be used particularly preferably.
  • Silica powder is not limited.
  • the preparation according to the invention preferably contains such powders with a specific surface area between 10 and 400 and particularly preferably those of 80 to 300 m / g.
  • hydrophobized silicon dioxide powders examples are Aerosil ® R106, Aerosil ® R202, Aerosil ® R805, Aerosil ® R812, Aerosil ® R812S, Aerosil ® R8200.
  • the preparation according to the invention can preferably have hydrophobized silicon dioxide powder with a tamped density of at least 70 g / 1, particularly preferably from 70 g / 1 to 250 g / 1 and very particularly preferably from 90 g / 1 to 180 g / 1. Tamped densities in the range of at least 70 g / l can be obtained, for example, by mechanical aftertreatment of the silicon dioxide powder before or after the hydrophobization. This can be compression, structural modification or granulation.
  • the tamped density is determined according to the invention in accordance with DIN EN ISO 787-11.
  • Suitable commercially available, hydrophobized silicon dioxide powders can be Aerosil® R104 V (90), Aerosil® R202 W90 (90), Aerosil® R805 W90 (90), Aerosil R 812 SW 75 (75), Aerosil® R812 W90 (90), Aerosil® R812S W90 (90), Aerosil® R8200 (140), all Degussa, or HDK® H2000 (approx. 200), HDK® H2050 (approx. 200), HDK® H3004 (approx. 100), all Wacker. Tamped density in g / 1 in brackets.
  • preparations according to the invention which have hydrophobized silicon dioxide powder with a tamped density of at least 70 g / 1 have a particularly high storage stability.
  • the proportion of hydrophobicized silicon dioxide powder in the preparation according to the invention is preferably 1-15% by weight.
  • Another component of the preparation according to the invention is at least one water-soluble or in an aqueous one Medium dispersible cosmetically relevant active ingredient or auxiliary.
  • the cosmetically relevant active ingredients and auxiliaries are selected from the group
  • UV light protection filter 2. dyes and pigments,
  • the proportion of water-soluble, water-miscible, or dispersible or emulsifiable in an aqueous medium cosmetically relevant active ingredient or auxiliary in the preparation according to the invention can be 1-25% by weight.
  • UV light protection filters are liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.
  • UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3, 3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene)
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-iso-propylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-ethoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4 '- methylbenzophenone, 2,2' -dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Triazine derivatives such as 2, 4, 6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3, 5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0 818 450 AI or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb TM HEB)
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5 (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.
  • UV-A filters such as, for example, 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol TM 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 191 12 033 AI (BASF).
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 4-tert.
  • water-soluble filters such as, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolamrrtonium and glucammonium salts.
  • UV filters that can be dissolved or emulsified in the aqueous phase are particularly advantageous according to the invention.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs in some other way from the spherical shape.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, water-wettable pigments being particularly preferred.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as UV-Titan M212, M 262 and X 111 (Kemira), AEROXIDE Ti02 P25, PF2, T 805 and T 817 (Degussa), Micro Titanium Dioxide MT-150 W, MT-100 AQ , MT-100 SA, MT-100 HD, MT-100 TV (Tayca), Eusolex TM T2000 (Merck), Zinc Oxide neutral
  • H&R and Zinc Oxide NDM H&R and Zinc Oxide NDM (Haarmann & Reimer) as well as Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 (BASF).
  • Dispersions such as TEGO Sun TAQ 40, a 40% by weight aqueous dispersion of a hydrophobized titanium dioxide (Degussa) can also be used.
  • Other suitable UV light protection filters can be found in P. Finkel's overview in S ⁇ FW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Parf. Kosm. 3.11 (1999).
  • Optical brighteners such as, for example, 4,4 v -diaminostilben-2,2, * disulfonic acid and its derivatives can also be used.
  • Light stabilizers can also be used as secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples of this are amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (for Example Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (for example alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and their Derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-ace
  • buthioninsulfoximine homocysteine sulfoximine, Butioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine
  • very low tolerable doses e.g. pmol to mu mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), alpha-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile Acid, biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • zinc and its derivatives for example ZnO, ZnS0
  • selenium and its derivatives for example selenium methionine
  • stilbene and their derivatives for example stilbene oxide, trans- Stilbene oxide
  • the derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, Ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • Dyes and Pigments Dyes which can be used according to the invention are natural vegetable or animal dyes such as, for example, betanine, bixin, carmine, carotene, chlorophyll, sepia etc. and their derivatives, and also synthetic organic dyes, such as, for example, azo, antrachinone, triphenylnethan dyes, etc. Water-soluble or water-dispersible dyes can be particularly preferred.
  • the preparation according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments, such as ocher, umber, red bolus, terra di Siena, chalk etc., and also synthetic inorganic pigments, such as iron oxides, ultramarines, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mica-based pigments, such as, for example, pearlescent pigments.
  • inorganic pigments such as ocher, umber, red bolus, terra di Siena, chalk etc.
  • synthetic inorganic pigments such as iron oxides, ultramarines, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mica-based pigments, such as, for example, pearlescent pigments.
  • Water-wettable pigments can be particularly preferred.
  • the preparation according to the invention also contains a humectant. This serves to further optimize the sensory properties of the composition as well as
  • the humectants are usually contained in an amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 1-10% by weight, and in particular 5-10% by weight.
  • Suitable according to the invention include amino acids, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, lactic acid and its salts, lactitol, urea and urea derivatives, uric acid, glucosa in, creatinine, cleavage products of collagen, chitosan or chitosan salts / derivatives, and in particular polyols and polyol derivatives (for example glycerol, diglycerol, trlycerol, trlycerol , Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, erythritol, 1, 2, 6-hexanetriol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14 , PEG-16, PEG-18, PEG-20), sugar and sugar derivatives (including fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inosito
  • Antiperspirant active ingredients are added. These active substances include astringent metal salts (antiperspirant active substances), antimicrobial agents,
  • the deodorant / antiperspirant active ingredients can be present in the preparation according to the invention in an amount of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 5-25% by weight and in particular 10-25% by weight (based on the amount preparation).
  • suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates and zinc salts.
  • the Preparation according to the invention also contain aluminum hydroxylactates and acidic aluminum / zirconium salts, for example Locron TM (formula [Al 2 (OH) 5 Cl] ⁇ 2.5 H 2 O, Clariant GmbH) or Rezal TM 36G (aluminum-zirconium-tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes , From Reheis).
  • Enzyme inhibitors for example esterase inhibitors, can be added as further deodorant substances.
  • These are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen TM C.A.T., Cognis Deutschland GmbH).
  • the substances inhibit the enzyme activity of sweat-decomposing bacteria and thereby reduce odor.
  • Other substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterolsulfates or - phosphates, such as, for example
  • hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester.
  • Antibacterial active substances which influence the microbial flora and kill sweat-decomposing bacteria or inhibit their growth can also be contained in the preparation according to the invention. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol, chlorhexidine gluconate or 5-chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol (Irgasan TM, Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH).
  • germ-inhibiting agents such as 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N'- (3, 4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4 ' - trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5- dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy ) -1, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynylbutyl carbaate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thyol, thyan oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol
  • TTC 3,4,4'-trichlorocarban
  • Suitable as odor absorbers are substances which absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation.
  • perfumes have to remain unaffected. They contain, for example, the main constituent of a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or fungal, largely odorless fragrances known to the hip flask as "fixators", such as extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives.
  • Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance.
  • Perfume oils include, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert.- Butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzylethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols anethole, Citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol,
  • Geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • Essential oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, kale oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Suitable biogenic active substances according to the invention are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate,
  • Tocopherol palmitate ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, beta-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, pantothenic acid, fruit acids, alpha-hydroxy acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, bamboo extracts, such as extracts, such as extracts, such as extracts, such as extracts, such as extracts, such as extracts, such as extracts, such as extracts, such as extract and vitamin complexes.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the preparation according to the invention additionally contains at least one insect repellent active ingredient or a combination of these active ingredients.
  • insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionic acid ethyl ester (Insect Repellent 3535, Merck KGaA), and also 'butylacetylaminopropionate in question. They are usually present in the preparation according to the invention in an amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight, and particularly preferably in an amount of 2-6% by weight, based on the preparation, in front.
  • hydrotropes such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be present.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, contain or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are:
  • Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1. 000 daltons
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol
  • alkyl glucosides especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside
  • Aminosugars such as glucamine
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-l, 3-propanediol.
  • Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt
  • Baypival TM climbazole
  • Ketoconazole TM (4 -Acetyl- 1- -4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r- 2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenylpiperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal .
  • the preparation according to the invention can contain bleaching agents or skin lightening agents, such as, for example, basic bismuth salts, hydroquinone, oxygen-releasing compounds, such as, for example, zinc peroxide, urea peroxide, hydrogen peroxide and / or organic peroxides.
  • the preparation according to the invention can particularly preferably contain hydrogen peroxide, which is used in the form of aqueous solutions.
  • Examples of possible tyrosinase inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents are arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate).
  • Cosmocair C 250 from Degussa AG is particularly suitable. Dihydroxyacetone, for example, is suitable as a self-tanner.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine TM and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. 11.
  • Surfactants / emulsifiers are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine TM and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. 11.
  • Surfactants / emulsifiers are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine TM and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Part
  • the preparation according to the invention can contain surfactants / emulsifiers.
  • the amount of these substances in the preparation is critical since their wetting behavior can prevent the formation of a powder when hydrophobized silicon dioxide powder is added, and therefore no preparation according to the invention can be obtained.
  • the preparations according to the invention therefore do not contain any surfactants / emulsifiers. If this is to be contained in the preparation according to the invention, the amount must be optimized depending on the preparation.
  • a preparation according to the invention can contain nonionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric, cationic and also anionic surfactants.
  • the preparation according to the invention can contain perfume oils. These can be natural, vegetable and animal as well as synthetic fragrances or their mixtures.
  • Natural fragrances are obtained by extracting flowers, stems, leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots and resins from plants. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Mixtures of different fragrances are preferably used, which together produce an appealing fragrance. Plant extracts which can be used according to the invention include, for example, extracts of arnica, birch, chamomile, burdock root, beard lichen, poplar, nettle and of walnut shells. Viscosity regulators
  • the preparation preferably contains hydrogel formers or hydrocolloids, such as modified polysaccharides such as cellulose ethers and cellulose esters, for example carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose,
  • inorganic hydrocolloids such as bentonites, magnesium aluminum silkates, silicon dioxide
  • synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyacrylates (for example Carbopole TM and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene TM from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Sal
  • surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane,
  • Fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution, alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride can be used to regulate the viscosity.
  • viscosity regulators are anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic copolymers, such as, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride / acrylamide copolymers / acrylamide copolymers / acrylamide copolymers / acrylamide copolymers / acrylamide copolymers / acrylamide copolymers with acrylamide / acrylamide copolymers, and acrylamide copolymers with acrylamide / acrylamide copolymers, and acrylamide
  • the proportion of the viscosity regulator in the preparation according to the invention can preferably be 1-5% by weight. -%.
  • the preparation according to the invention can furthermore contain at least one oil body.
  • oil bodies are understood to mean substances which are liquid at 20 ° C. and immiscible with water at 25 ° C. or mixtures of substances. The combination with oil bodies allows the optimization of the sensory properties of the preparations.
  • Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms for example Eutanol TM G
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 22 fatty acids with linear or branched C & C 22 fatty alcohols or Esters of branched C 6 -C 3 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ⁇ -C 22 fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate
  • esters of linear C 6 ⁇ C 22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C 3 -C 38 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 2 fatty alcohols - especially diethylhexylmalate -, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C 6 -C ⁇ 0 fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ö -Cis Fatty acids, esters of C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C 2 -C 2 -dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched
  • Alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohol carbonates, such as, for example, dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol TM CC) , Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C 6 -C 22 alcohols (for example Finsolv TM TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical Dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol TM OE),
  • Hydrocarbons such as, for example, mineral oil, petroleum jelly, petrolatum, squalane, squalene, dialkyl ether, dialkyl carbonates and / or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • the preparation according to the invention can contain silicone compounds. These can be cyclomethicones, dimethicones, dimethylpolysiloxanes, Methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones, amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and silicon dioxide or hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • the amount of oil bodies in the total composition can be between 0.1 and 10% by weight.
  • the amount can particularly preferably vary between 0.5 and 3% by weight.
  • Another object of the invention is a process for the preparation of the spreadable cosmetic preparation, which is characterized in that at least one cosmetically relevant active ingredient and / or auxiliary and optionally at least one pigment in water or one to a solution, dispersion or emulsion aqueous solution - with mixing in portions or continuously hydrophobicized silicon powder and the mixing is continued until the mixture presently in powder form after the addition of hydrophobicized silide- ⁇ mdioxide powder takes on a spreadable cream or paste-like consistency, - and then a viscosity regulator and, if necessary, together with or after the addition of the viscosity regulator with mixing, optionally adding at least one oil body.
  • An essential feature of the method is that the mixing of the components is continued until the mixture originally present in powder form after the addition of hydrophobized silicon dioxide powder spreadable cream or pasty consistency.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of the spreadable, cosmetic preparation in pastes, creams, gels, sticks, foams, emulsions, dispersions, roll-ons, lotions.
  • Suitable product forms can be:
  • Hair treatment agents such as coloring and decolorizing agents, hair bleaching agents, waving agents, decurling agents, setting agents, cleaning agents, hairdressing aids
  • make-up and make-up removers for the face and eyes such as facial make-up, tinted day cream, powder cream, cream make-up, blush, eyeshadow, mascara, kohl pencil, eyeliner or eyebrow pencil;
  • Example 1 Water and Hydrolite-5 are placed in the mixer and the pigments are added with stirring and then briefly dispersed with a homogenizer.
  • AEROSIL® R 812 S is added while the homogenizer is running and a further 10 min. homogenized until the initially powdery mixture has a pasty consistency.
  • ABIL® 20, ABIL® B 8843 and Liquipar Oil were added with stirring and the mixture was stirred for another 2-3 minutes. Covagel was sprinkled in with stirring and the resulting mixture was stirred for a further 15 minutes. This creates an easily spreadable, creamy and storage-stable formulation.
  • Example la AEROSIL® R 812 S replaced by AEROSIL® R 812 S W60 with a tamped density of 60 g / 1.
  • Example lb AEROSIL® R 812 S replaced by AEROSIL® R 812 S W75 with a tamped density of 75 g / 1.
  • Example lc AEROSIL® R 812 S replaced by AEROSIL® R 812 S W90 with a tamped density of 90 g / 1.
  • Example ld AEROSIL® R 812 S replaced by AEROSIL® R 8200 with a tamped density of 140 g / 1.
  • Example le AEROSIL® R 812 S replaced by a mixture of 8 parts by weight AEROSIL® R 812 S W90 with a tamped density of 90 g / 1 and 2 parts by weight AEROXIDE® Ti0 2 T805.
  • Example lf AEROSIL® R 812 S replaced by a mixture of 8 parts by weight AEROSIL® R 812 S W90 with a tamped density of 90 g / 1 and 2 parts by weight with AEROXIDE® Alu C hydrophobized with hexamethyldisilazane with a tamped density of 80 g / 1.
  • the preparations of Examples 1, la-lg show good storage stability.
  • the preparations of Examples Ib-Ig, which contain hydropohobicized silicon dioxide powder with a tamped density of at least 70 g / l, show particularly good storage stability.
  • working with the hydrophobized silicon dioxide powders with a tamped density of at least 70 g / 1 only leads to a low level of dust and the high flowability allows a higher dosing accuracy in the preparation of the preparations.
  • Example 2 Example 2 is carried out analogously to Example 1 with an amount of Abil 20 increased to 2.0% by weight. Analogously to Example 1, an easily spreadable, cream-like and storage-stable formulation is produced.
  • Comparative example VI is carried out analogously to example 2, but the mixture is stirred for only five minutes after the addition of the hydrophobicized silicon dioxide. The result is a powdery preparation that liquefies when rubbed onto the skin.
  • Comparative example V2 is carried out analogously to example 2, but without sodium carboxymethyl starch as the viscosity regulator. The result is a cream-like formulation, which, however, is not stable in storage.
  • Comparative example C3 is analogous to example 2, but without the addition of hydrophobized silicon dioxide. The result is a thin suspension from which the pigments settle very quickly. Hydrophobicized silicon dioxide powder is therefore an indispensable component in order to produce a cream-like and storage-stable formulation.
  • Example 3 is carried out analogously to Example 2, with dimethicone being replaced by ethylhexyl palmitate. Analogously to Examples 1 and 2, a cream-like, storage-stable preparation is produced which, however, has a somewhat darker shade.
  • Example 4 is carried out analogously to Example 2, but without the addition of dimethicone. Analogously to Example 2, a cream-like, storage-stable formulation is produced.
  • Examples 5-40 are produced based on Examples 1 and 2. All formulations have a spreadable consistency and are stable in storage.
  • Examples 33 and 34 Hand and foot care products containing urea

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation cosmétique à étaler, présentant une consistance crémeuse ou pâteuse et contenant 50 à 95 % en poids d'eau, une poudre de dioxyde de silicium rendue hydrophobe, au moins un agent actif ou auxiliaire cosmétiquement applicable, soluble dans l'eau ou pouvant être dispersé ou émulsionné dans un milieu aqueux, et un régulateur de viscosité. Pour fabriquer cette préparation, on ajoute par mélange une poudre de silicium rendue hydrophobe en continu ou par portions à une solution ou dispersion d'au moins un agent actif et/ou auxiliaire cosmétiquement applicable et éventuellement d'au moins un pigment dans l'eau et le mélange est poursuivi jusqu'à ce que le mélange, présent initialement sous forme de poudre après l'ajout de la poudre de dioxyde de silicium rendue hydrophobe, prenne une consistance pâteuse. Ensuite, un régulateur de viscosité est ajouté et éventuellement au moins un corps huileux est ajouté par mélange éventuellement avant, pendant ou après l'ajout du régulateur de viscosité. Cette préparation peut être utilisée dans des pâtes, des crèmes, des gels, des bâtons, des mousses, des émulsions, des dispersions, des déodorants à bille et des lotions.
EP04803265A 2003-12-01 2004-11-25 Preparation cosmetique a etaler, presentant une haute teneur en eau Withdrawn EP1694287A1 (fr)

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PCT/EP2004/013365 WO2005058256A1 (fr) 2003-12-01 2004-11-25 Preparation cosmetique a etaler, presentant une haute teneur en eau

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FR2982147B1 (fr) * 2011-11-07 2014-03-21 Oreal Composition a phase huileuse continue contenant au moins un filtre uv organique lipophile et des particules d'aerogel de silice hydrophobes.
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FR3004106B1 (fr) * 2013-04-05 2016-08-05 Oreal Composition contenant des particules composites filtrant les radiations uv de taille moyenne superieure a 0,1μm et des particules d'aerogel de silice hydrophobes
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US9468606B2 (en) 2014-03-31 2016-10-18 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Compostions and methods for enhancing the topical application of an acidic benefit agent
KR20170012564A (ko) 2014-06-16 2017-02-02 존슨 앤드 존슨 컨수머 인코포레이티드 색조 화장료의 국소 도포를 향상시키기 위한 조성물 및 방법
BR112019007717A2 (pt) * 2016-11-10 2019-07-09 Givaudan Sa desodorante que compreende um sal de carboxilato de zinco e cloridrato de alumínio
DE102018114107A1 (de) * 2018-06-13 2019-12-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetische Zubereitung mit außergewöhnlicher Textur zur temporären Umformung keratinhaltiger Fasern
CN110327258A (zh) * 2019-08-20 2019-10-15 郜莹 一种肌肤滋润美白去皱和毛孔清洁排毒效果好的净护膏
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