EP1552862A1 - Mechanical cam chok for climbing or mountaneering - Google Patents

Mechanical cam chok for climbing or mountaneering Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1552862A1
EP1552862A1 EP04354038A EP04354038A EP1552862A1 EP 1552862 A1 EP1552862 A1 EP 1552862A1 EP 04354038 A EP04354038 A EP 04354038A EP 04354038 A EP04354038 A EP 04354038A EP 1552862 A1 EP1552862 A1 EP 1552862A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cam
cams
bearing surface
axis
cleat
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP04354038A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Paul Petzl
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Zedel SAS
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Zedel SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Zedel SAS filed Critical Zedel SAS
Publication of EP1552862A1 publication Critical patent/EP1552862A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons
    • A63B29/024—Climbing chocks

Definitions

  • FIG. 1 of the application corresponds to the mechanical wedge illustrated in FIG. WO 02/34091, which comprises a pair of cams 11, 12 mounted to rotation in opposition on the same axis 13.
  • Each cam has two faces opposing flat surfaces, which delimit the bearing surface having a Curved spiral profile. This support surface of each cam comes in contact with one of the walls of a crack to serve as anchor.
  • the section cross-section of the bearing surface is formed at this point by a straight line.
  • the planar bearing surfaces substantially match the shape of the walls of the crack, and provide effective wedging wedge.
  • This jam known in irregular cracks ( Figure 2) can cause problems of instability in the case where the contact with the wall takes place at a single point of each side. Depending on the mechanical stresses on the cable fastener, the jam can then be unlocked by turning around an axis passing through the two points A and B of contact.
  • the object of the invention is to remedy these drawbacks, and to realize a mechanical cam cleat to obtain optimum stability of anchoring, regardless of the shape of the cracks.
  • this object is achieved by the fact that the bearing surface of the first cam has a convex face, while the support surface of the second cam has a concave face, so as to obtain three points or support zones in the locked away position.
  • the two half-axes are coaxial, and the support surface of each cam has a Logarithmic spiral profile with an angle close to 14 °.
  • control means comprise a trigger connected to the cams by a pair of links, said trigger being formed by a tubular slide whose upper end is coupled to the rods, and whose lower end is shaped as a gripping member.
  • a mechanical cam cleat 10 for climbing and mountaineering comprises a pair of rotatably mounted cams 11, 12 and in opposition on a common support axis 13.
  • the support axis 13 is fixed, and comprises a central body 16 which is attached a cable 14 or other means of attachment.
  • the end of the cable 14 is equipped with a ring 15 for attaching a carabiner or a belay rope.
  • the central body 16 of the axis 13 is equipped with a first half-axis 13a on which is mounted the first cam 11, and a second half-axis 13b for the receiving the second cam 12.
  • the two half-axes 13a, 13b are coaxial, and extend on either side of the central body 16.
  • Each cam 11, 12 has a bearing surface 11a, 12a having a profile of logarithmic spiral with an angle close to 14 °.
  • the bearing surface 11a of the first cam 11 has a convex face instead of being flat as in the jam of the document WO 02/34091.
  • the other bearing surface 12a of the second cam 12 has a concave face.
  • a torsion spring (not shown) is mounted on one of the half-shafts 13a, 13b, and urges the cams 11, 12 towards the locked position of the FIG. 4.
  • the displacement of the cams 11, 12 towards the retracted position of FIG. is effected by means of a trigger 17 connected to the cams 11, 12 by a pair of rods 18, 19.
  • the trigger 17 comprises a tubular slide 20 of which the upper end is coupled to the links 18, 19, and whose end lower part is shaped as a gripping member 21.
  • a compression spring 22 is interposed between an internal shoulder 23 of the slide 20 and a tubular abutment 24 inserted on the cable 14 during assembly. To position the wedge 10 in a crack, simply pull the organ gripping 21 downwards to compress the compression spring 22 and actuate the cams 11, 12 towards the retracted position of Figure 3.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Electric Cable Installation (AREA)
  • Emergency Lowering Means (AREA)

Abstract

The device has a pair of anchoring cams (11, 12) mounted in rotation and in opposition on a common support axis. The cams (11, 12) have support surfaces (11a, 12a), respectively. The surface (11a) presents a convex face and the surface (12a) presents a concave face so as to obtain three support zones or points (A, B, C) when the cams are in blocking position.

Description

Domaine technique de l'inventionTechnical field of the invention

L'invention concerne un coinceur mécanique à cames pour l'escalade et l'alpinisme, et comprenant :

  • au moins une paire de cames d'ancrage montées à rotation et en opposition sur un axe commun de support, chaque came comportant une surface d'appui ayant un profil prédéterminé,
  • un moyen d'attache solidarisé à un corps central de l'axe, lequel est équipé d'un premier demi-axe de réception de la première came, et d'un deuxième demi-axe de réception de la deuxième came,
  • et des moyens de commande des cames entre une position écartée de blocage, et une position rétractée de déblocage.
The invention relates to a mechanical cam wedge for climbing and mountaineering, and comprising:
  • at least one pair of anchor cams rotatably and oppositely mounted on a common support shaft, each cam having a bearing surface having a predetermined profile,
  • fastening means secured to a central body of the axis, which is equipped with a first half-axis for receiving the first cam, and a second half-axis for receiving the second cam,
  • and cam control means between a locked away position, and a retracted unlocking position.

État de la techniqueState of the art

La figure 1 de la demande correspond au coinceur mécanique illustré dans le document WO 02/34091, qui comporte une paire de cames 11, 12 montées à rotation en opposition sur un même axe 13. Chaque came comporte deux faces latérales opposées planes, lesquelles délimitent la surface d'appui ayant un profil courbe en forme de spirale. Cette surface d'appui de chaque came vient en contact avec l'une des parois d'une fissure pour servir de point d'ancrage.FIG. 1 of the application corresponds to the mechanical wedge illustrated in FIG. WO 02/34091, which comprises a pair of cams 11, 12 mounted to rotation in opposition on the same axis 13. Each cam has two faces opposing flat surfaces, which delimit the bearing surface having a Curved spiral profile. This support surface of each cam comes in contact with one of the walls of a crack to serve as anchor.

Dans une position angulaire spécifique de la surface d'appui, la section transversale de la surface d'appui est formée à cet endroit par une droite. Dans une fissure régulière (illustrée à la figure 1 de la présente demande), les surfaces d'appui planes épousent sensiblement la forme des parois de la fissure, et assurent un calage efficace du coinceur. L'utilisation de ce coinceur connu dans des fissures irrégulières (figure 2) peut occasionner des problèmes d'instabilité dans le cas où le contact avec la paroi s'effectue en un seul point de chaque côté. En fonction des sollicitations mécaniques s'exerçant sur le câble d'attache, le coinceur risque alors de se débloquer en tournant autour d'un axe passant par les deux points A et B de contact.In a specific angular position of the bearing surface, the section cross-section of the bearing surface is formed at this point by a straight line. In a regular crack (shown in Figure 1 of this application), the planar bearing surfaces substantially match the shape of the walls of the crack, and provide effective wedging wedge. The use of this jam known in irregular cracks (Figure 2) can cause problems of instability in the case where the contact with the wall takes place at a single point of each side. Depending on the mechanical stresses on the cable fastener, the jam can then be unlocked by turning around an axis passing through the two points A and B of contact.

Objet de l'inventionObject of the invention

L'invention a pour but de remédier à ces inconvénients, et de réaliser un coinceur mécanique à cames permettant d'obtenir une stabilité optimum de l'ancrage, indépendamment de la forme des fissures.The object of the invention is to remedy these drawbacks, and to realize a mechanical cam cleat to obtain optimum stability of anchoring, regardless of the shape of the cracks.

Selon l'invention, ce but est atteint par le fait que la surface d'appui de la première came présente une face convexe, tandis que la surface d'appui de la deuxième came possède une face concave, de manière à obtenir trois points ou zones d'appui en position écartée de blocage.According to the invention, this object is achieved by the fact that the bearing surface of the first cam has a convex face, while the support surface of the second cam has a concave face, so as to obtain three points or support zones in the locked away position.

Les deux demi-axes sont coaxiaux, et la surface d'appui de chaque came a un profil de spirale logarithmique d'angle voisin de 14°. The two half-axes are coaxial, and the support surface of each cam has a Logarithmic spiral profile with an angle close to 14 °.

De préférence, les moyens de commande comportent une gâchette reliée aux cames par une paire de biellettes, ladite gâchette étant formée par un coulisseau tubulaire dont l'extrémité supérieure est accouplée aux biellettes, et dont l'extrémité inférieure est conformée en organe de préhension.Preferably, the control means comprise a trigger connected to the cams by a pair of links, said trigger being formed by a tubular slide whose upper end is coupled to the rods, and whose lower end is shaped as a gripping member.

Description sommaire des dessinsBrief description of the drawings

D'autres avantages et caractéristiques ressortiront plus clairement de la description qui va suivre de modes particuliers de réalisation de l'invention donnés à titre d'exemples non limitatifs et représentés aux dessins annexés, dans lesquels :

  • les figures 1 et 2 sont des vues d'un coinceur de l'art antérieur, en position insérée respectivement dans une fissure régulière et dans une fissure irrégulière ;
  • les figures 3 et 4 montrent des vues en coupe d'un coinceur selon l'invention, représenté respectivement en position rétractée pour l'introduction dans une fissure, et en position écartée de blocage ;
  • la figure 5 est une vue en perspective de l'axe de support des cames ;
  • la figure 6 est une vue en plan du coinceur de la figure 3 ;
  • la figure 7 représente une vue en plan du coinceur de la figure 4, inséré dans une fissure irrégulière à faces non parallèles.
Other advantages and features will emerge more clearly from the following description of particular embodiments of the invention given by way of non-limiting example and represented in the accompanying drawings, in which:
  • Figures 1 and 2 are views of a wedge of the prior art, in the inserted position respectively in a regular crack and in an irregular crack;
  • Figures 3 and 4 show sectional views of a wedge according to the invention, respectively shown in the retracted position for introduction into a crack, and in the locked position;
  • Figure 5 is a perspective view of the support axis of the cams;
  • Figure 6 is a plan view of the wedge of Figure 3;
  • Figure 7 shows a plan view of the wedge of Figure 4, inserted into an irregular crack with non-parallel faces.

Description d'un mode préférentiel de réalisation.Description of a preferred embodiment.

Sur les figures 3 à 6, un coinceur 10 mécanique à cames pour l'escalade et l'alpinisme, comporte une paire de cames 11, 12 d'ancrage montées à rotation et en opposition sur un axe 13 commun de support.In FIGS. 3 to 6, a mechanical cam cleat 10 for climbing and mountaineering, comprises a pair of rotatably mounted cams 11, 12 and in opposition on a common support axis 13.

L'axe 13 de support est fixe, et comprend un corps 16 central auquel est attaché un câble 14 ou tout autre moyen d'attache. L'extrémité du câble 14 est équipée d'un anneau 15 permettant l'accrochage d'un mousqueton ou d'une corde d'assurage.The support axis 13 is fixed, and comprises a central body 16 which is attached a cable 14 or other means of attachment. The end of the cable 14 is equipped with a ring 15 for attaching a carabiner or a belay rope.

Le corps 16 central de l'axe 13 est équipé d'un premier demi-axe 13a sur lequel est montée la première came 11, et d'un deuxième demi-axe 13b pour la réception de la deuxième came 12. Les deux demi-axes 13a, 13b sont coaxiaux, et s'étendent de part et d'autre du corps 16 central.The central body 16 of the axis 13 is equipped with a first half-axis 13a on which is mounted the first cam 11, and a second half-axis 13b for the receiving the second cam 12. The two half-axes 13a, 13b are coaxial, and extend on either side of the central body 16.

Chaque came 11, 12 possède une surface d'appui 11a, 12a ayant un profil de spirale logarithmique d'angle voisin de 14°. La surface d'appui 11a de la première came 11 présente une face convexe au lieu d'être plane comme dans le coinceur du document WO 02/34091. L'autre surface d'appui 12a de la deuxième came 12 présente une face concave.Each cam 11, 12 has a bearing surface 11a, 12a having a profile of logarithmic spiral with an angle close to 14 °. The bearing surface 11a of the first cam 11 has a convex face instead of being flat as in the jam of the document WO 02/34091. The other bearing surface 12a of the second cam 12 has a concave face.

Les courbures des deux surfaces d'appui 11 a, 12a opposées sont ainsi inversées, de manière à conférer en permanence trois points ou zones d'appui A, B et C (figure 7). Il en résulte une position stable du coinceur 10 inséré dans une fissure de forme irrégulière, le point d'appui A se trouvant du côté de la face convexe, et les deux autres points d'appui B et C du côté de la face concave. The curvatures of the two opposite bearing surfaces 11a, 12a are thus inverted, so as to permanently confer three points or zones of support A, B and C (Figure 7). This results in a stable position of the cleat 10 inserted in a crack of irregular shape, the point of support A being on the side of the face convex, and the other two points of support B and C on the side of the concave face.

Un ressort de torsion (non représenté) est monté sur l'un des demi-axes 13a, 13b, et sollicite les cames 11, 12 vers la position écartée de blocage de la figure 4.A torsion spring (not shown) is mounted on one of the half-shafts 13a, 13b, and urges the cams 11, 12 towards the locked position of the FIG. 4.

Le déplacement des cames 11, 12 vers la position rétractée de la figure 3 s'effectue au moyen d'une gâchette 17 reliée aux cames 11, 12 par une paire de biellettes 18, 19. La gâchette 17 comporte un coulisseau 20 tubulaire dont l'extrémité supérieure est accouplée aux biellettes 18, 19, et dont l'extrémité inférieure est conformée en organe de préhension 21.The displacement of the cams 11, 12 towards the retracted position of FIG. is effected by means of a trigger 17 connected to the cams 11, 12 by a pair of rods 18, 19. The trigger 17 comprises a tubular slide 20 of which the upper end is coupled to the links 18, 19, and whose end lower part is shaped as a gripping member 21.

Un ressort de compression 22 est interposé entre un épaulement 23 interne du coulisseau 20 et une butée 24 tubulaire insérée sur le câble 14 lors du montage. Pour positionner le coinceur 10 dans une fissure, il suffit de tirer l'organe de préhension 21 vers le bas pour comprimer le ressort de compression 22 et actionner les cames 11, 12 vers la position rétractée de la figure 3.A compression spring 22 is interposed between an internal shoulder 23 of the slide 20 and a tubular abutment 24 inserted on the cable 14 during assembly. To position the wedge 10 in a crack, simply pull the organ gripping 21 downwards to compress the compression spring 22 and actuate the cams 11, 12 towards the retracted position of Figure 3.

En cas de relâchement de l'organe de préhension 21, la détente du ressort de compression 22 ramène automatiquement la gâchette 17 vers le haut, et le ressort de torsion provoque le retour des cames vers la position écartée de bocage (figure 4).In the event of release of the gripping member 21, the expansion of the spring of compression 22 automatically returns the trigger 17 up, and the torsion spring causes the cams to return to the discarded position of bocage (Figure 4).

Claims (5)

Coinceur mécanique à cames pour l'escalade et l'alpinisme, et comprenant : au moins une paire de cames (11, 12) d'ancrage montées à rotation et en opposition sur un axe (13) commun de support, chaque came (11, 12) comportant une surface d'appui (11 a, 12a) ayant un profil prédéterminé, un moyen d'attache solidarisé à un corps (16) central de l'axe (13), lequel est équipé d'un premier demi-axe (13a) de réception de la première came (11), et d'un deuxième demi-axe (13b) de réception de la deuxième came (12), et des moyens de commande des cames (11, 12) entre une position écartée de blocage, et une position rétractée de déblocage, caractérisé en ce que la surface d'appui (11 a) de la première came (11) présente une face convexe, tandis que la surface d'appui (12a) de la deuxième came (12) possède une face concave, de manière à obtenir trois points ou zones d'appui (A, B, C) en position écartée de blocage.Mechanical cam cleat for climbing and mountaineering, and comprising: at least one pair of anchoring cams (11, 12) rotatably and oppositely mounted on a common support shaft (13), each cam (11, 12) having a bearing surface (11a, 12a) having a predetermined profile, a fastening means secured to a body (16) central to the axis (13), which is equipped with a first half-axis (13a) for receiving the first cam (11), and a second half -axe (13b) for receiving the second cam (12), and means for controlling the cams (11, 12) between a locked position and a retracted unlocking position, characterized in that the bearing surface (11a) of the first cam (11) has a convex face, while the bearing surface (12a) of the second cam (12) has a concave face, so as to obtain three points or zones of support (A, B, C) in position separated from blocking. Coinceur selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que les deux demi-axes (13a, 13b) sont coaxiaux, la surface d'appui (11a, 12a) de chaque came (11, 12) ayant un profil de spirale logarithmique d'angle voisin de 14°.Cleat according to claim 1, characterized in that the two half-shafts (13a, 13b) are coaxial, the bearing surface (11a, 12a) of each cam (11, 12) having a logarithmic spiral profile of angle neighbor of 14 °. Coinceur selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que les moyens de commande comportent une gâchette (17) reliée aux cames (11, 12) par une paire de biellettes (18, 19), ladite gâchette étant formée par un coulisseau (20) tubulaire dont l'extrémité supérieure est accouplée aux biellettes (18, 19), et dont l'extrémité inférieure est conformée en organe de préhension (21). Cleat according to claim 2, characterized in that the control means comprise a trigger (17) connected to the cams (11, 12) by a pair of rods (18, 19), said trigger being formed by a tubular slide (20). whose upper end is coupled to the rods (18, 19), and whose lower end is shaped gripping member (21). Coinceur selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce qu'un ressort de compression (22) est interposé entre un épaulement (23) interne du coulisseau (20) et une butée (24) tubulaire insérée sur le moyen d'attache.Cleat according to claim 3, characterized in that a compression spring (22) is interposed between an inner shoulder (23) of the slide (20) and a tubular stop (24) inserted on the attachment means. Coinceur selon la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que le moyen d'attache est constitué par un câble (14) équipé d'un anneau (15).Cleat according to claim 4, characterized in that the attachment means is constituted by a cable (14) equipped with a ring (15).
EP04354038A 2004-01-06 2004-10-27 Mechanical cam chok for climbing or mountaneering Withdrawn EP1552862A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0400056A FR2864791B1 (en) 2004-01-06 2004-01-06 MECHANICAL CAM COINER FOR CLIMBING AND ALPINISM
FR0400056 2004-01-06

Publications (1)

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EP1552862A1 true EP1552862A1 (en) 2005-07-13

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EP04354038A Withdrawn EP1552862A1 (en) 2004-01-06 2004-10-27 Mechanical cam chok for climbing or mountaneering

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US (1) US7140583B2 (en)
EP (1) EP1552862A1 (en)
FR (1) FR2864791B1 (en)

Cited By (1)

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EP1557200B1 (en) * 2004-01-22 2008-09-03 Black Diamond Equipment AG Improved active camming device surface

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US7011281B2 (en) * 2002-02-28 2006-03-14 Karl Guthrie Expansion bolt
US7357363B2 (en) * 2003-12-30 2008-04-15 Karl Guthrie Expansion bolt
US20090056267A1 (en) * 2007-07-12 2009-03-05 Reeves Eric William Expansible hole anchor
US11135479B2 (en) 2017-03-28 2021-10-05 Matthew Hall Anchors for climbing and related activities
EP3887003A1 (en) * 2018-11-30 2021-10-06 Matteo Vianini Anchoring and support climbing device
US11383136B2 (en) 2019-04-30 2022-07-12 Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. Camming stem system
US11083934B2 (en) 2019-04-30 2021-08-10 Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. Camming retraction system

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US4422607A (en) * 1979-10-11 1983-12-27 Mark Vallance Climbing chocks
US4643377A (en) * 1985-09-26 1987-02-17 Tony Christianson Mechanically expanding climbing aid
US6042069A (en) * 1998-08-03 2000-03-28 Christianson; Tony Expanding climbing aid
GB2347360A (en) * 1999-03-02 2000-09-06 John Michael Peter Arran Expandable anchor point
US6273379B1 (en) * 2000-05-09 2001-08-14 Metolius Mountain Products, Inc. Climbing nut
WO2002034091A1 (en) * 2000-10-20 2002-05-02 Seth Murray Anchoring device for use in rock crevices during rock climbing activities

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1557200B1 (en) * 2004-01-22 2008-09-03 Black Diamond Equipment AG Improved active camming device surface

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Publication number Publication date
FR2864791B1 (en) 2006-04-07
FR2864791A1 (en) 2005-07-08
US7140583B2 (en) 2006-11-28
US20050145766A1 (en) 2005-07-07

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