EP1492488A2

EP1492488A2 - Cross-linked cosmetic or pharmaceutical phospholipid-containing gels and emulsions based on ethylene oxide-containing or propylene oxide-containing emulsifiers

Info

Publication number: EP1492488A2
Application number: EP03720373A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jörg SCHREIBER; Mirko Tesch
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2002-03-28
Filing date: 2003-03-27
Publication date: 2005-01-05
Also published as: WO2003082182A3; DE10213957A1; US20050142153A1; WO2003082182A2; US20060002964A9

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for producing cross-linked microemulsion gels or cross-linked O/W emulsions of the O/W type, which contain an aqueous phase and an oil phase, substantially composed of highly viscous components, and which further contain at least one phospholipid and at least one O/W emulsifier and optionally a W/O emulsifier and, if desired, further adjuvants, additives and/or active substances and at least one cross-linking agent. The inventive gels or emulsions are produced by a) adding the aqueous phase and its components to the oil phase and its components, especially the phospholipid, the O/W emulsifier and optionally the W/O emulsifier, whereby a cross-linking agent or a plurality of cross-linking agents are added to the aqueous phase or the oil phase or to both phases. Viscosity increases and the gels are obtained and if more aqueous phase is added, microemulsions or cross-linked O/W emulsions are obtained. The gels or emulsions are further produced by b) adding the aqueous phase and its components to the oil phase and its components, especially the phospholipid, the O/W emulsifier and optionally the W/O emulsifier. An intermediate increase in viscosity can be observed and low-viscous phospholipid microemulsions or low-viscous O/W emulsions are obtained that are then converted to microemulsion gels or cross-linked O/W emulsions by adding a cross-linking agent or a plurality of cross-linking agents.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

description

Cross-linked cosmetic or pharmaceutical phospholipid-containing gels and emulsions based on ethylene oxide or propylene oxide

emulsifiers

The present invention relates to crosslinked phospholipid-containing microemulsion gels and oil-in-water emulsions, processes for their preparation and their use for cosmetic or pharmaceutical purposes. They are used topically in particular.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.

Medical topical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, the clean distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products is based on the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany referenced (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).

Gels are the usual and increasingly popular cosmetic and dermatological preparation forms.

In the technical sense, gels are understood to mean: Relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems composed of at least two components, which as a rule consist of a - usually solid - colloidally divided substance made up of long-chain molecular groups (e.g. gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) as a scaffold and a liquid dispersant - Sion agents (e.g. water) exist. The colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickening or gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersion medium, whereby individual colloidal particles can be more or less firmly linked to one another via electrostatic interaction. The dispersant which surrounds the network is distinguished by electrostatic affinity for the gelling agent, i.e. a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersing agent (in particular: water), whereas a predominantly non-polar gelling agent preferably gels non-polar dispersing agent.

Strong electrostatic interactions, which are realized, for example, in hydrogen bonds between the gelling agent and the dispersing agent, but also between the dispersing agent molecules, can also lead to strong crosslinking of the dispersing agent. Hydrogels can consist of almost 100% water (in addition, for example, about 0.2-1.0% of a gelling agent) and have a firm consistency. The water content is present in ice-like structural elements, so that gels therefore have their ^" name origin" from lat. "Gelatum" = "frozen" via the alchemical expression "gelatina" (16th century) for nhdt. "Gelatin"] do justice.

In cosmetic and pharmaceutical galenics, ipogels and oleols (from waxes, fats and fatty oils) and carbogels (from paraffin or petrolatum) are also common. In practice, a distinction is made between oleogels, which are practically anhydrous, and hydrogels, which are practically fat-free. Most of the time, gels are transparent. In cosmetic or pharmaceutical galenics, gels are usually characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency. In simple emulsions, finely dispersed droplets of the second phase (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions) are contained in one phase and enclosed by an emulsifier shell. The droplet diameters of the ordinary emulsions are in the range from approx. 200 nm to approx. 50 μm. Such "macroemulsions" are colored milky white and opaque without any additional coloring additives.

Micellar and molecular solutions with particle diameters smaller than approx. 10 ^"2 μm are reserved to appear clear and transparent.

So-called surfactant gels are also common preparations of the prior art. This is understood to mean systems which, in addition to water, have a high concentration of emulsifiers, typically more than about 25% by weight, based on the overall composition. If one solubilizes oil components in these surfactant gels, also called “sur factant gels” in technical terms, microemulsion gels are obtained, which are also referred to as “ringing gels”. By adding nonionic emulsifiers, for example alkyl polyglycosides, it is possible to obtain cosmetically more elegant microemulsion gels. Here too, the high content of emulsifiers is disadvantageous.

The droplet diameter of transparent or translucent microemulsions, on the other hand, is in the range from about 10 nm to 200 nm. Such microemulsions are low-viscosity or gel-like. The viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable to that of water.

The advantage of microemulsion gels is that active substances can be finely dispersed in the disperse phase. Another advantage is that they can be sprayable. If microemulsions are used as cosmetics, corresponding products are distinguished by a high level of cosmetic elegance.

A disadvantage of microemulsions, and thus also of the prior art microemulsion ^gels , is that a high content of one or more emulsifiers must always be used, since the small droplet size causes a high interface between the phases, which as a rule is caused by emulsifiers must be stabilized. In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers is harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, like any chemical substance, can cause allergic or hypersensitive reactions in individual cases.

It is known, for example, that certain light dermatoses are triggered by certain emulsifiers, but also by various fats, and simultaneous exposure to sunlight. Such light dermatoses are also called "Mallorca acne". One object of the present invention was therefore to develop sun protection products.

Thus, the present invention relates to special embodiments of cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

The narrower range around 308 nm is generally regarded as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.

Numerous compounds are known to protect against UVB radiation, most of which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can also cause damage. It has been shown that UVA radiation damages the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is the cause of numerous phototoxic and pho- allergic reactions can be seen. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.

In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

UV absorbers or UV reflectors are most inorganic pigments that are known to be used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications.

Microemulsion gels are also suitable for other cosmetic dermatological applications, for example deodorants, so that in a particular embodiment the present invention relates to microemulsion gels as the basis for cosmetic deodorants.

Cosmetic deodorants are used to eliminate body odor that arises when the fresh, odorless sweat is decomposed by microorganisms. The usual cosmetic deodorants are based on different active principles.

In so-called antiperspirants, astringents - mainly aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (aluminum chlorohydrate) - can reduce the formation of sweat.

The use of antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants can reduce the bacterial flora on the skin. Ideally, only the odor-causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced. The sweat flow itself is not affected by this, in the ideal case only the microbial decomposition of the sweat is temporarily stopped.

Also the combination of astringents with antimicrobial substances in one and the same composition is common.

Deodorants should meet the following conditions: 1) They should cause reliable deodorization. 2) The natural biological processes of the skin must not be impaired by the deodorants.

3) The deodorants must be harmless in the event of an overdose or other improper use.

4) They should not accumulate on the skin after repeated use. 5) They should be easy to incorporate into common cosmetic formulations.

Both liquid deodorants, for example aerosol sprays, roll-ons and the like, and solid preparations, for example deodorant sticks ("sticks"), powder, powder sprays, intimate cleansing agents, etc., are known and customary.

The use of microemulsions or emulsions as the basis for deodorant or antiperspirant preparations are also known. Their relatively high content of emulsifiers, with the disadvantages described, was previously a problem that had to be remedied.

Another object of the present invention was therefore to develop preparations which are suitable as a basis for cosmetic deodorants or antiperspirants and which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art.

Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to develop cosmetic bases for cosmetic deodorants which are distinguished by good skin tolerance.

It was also an object of the present invention to provide products based on crosslinked microemulsion gels or emulsions with the widest possible range of applications. For example, the basis for preparation forms such as cleaning products, face and body care preparations, but also very medicinal-pharmaceutical forms of administration should be created, for example preparations for acne and other skin symptoms. In a particular embodiment, the invention therefore relates to facial cleansing products, preferably makeup removers, for example eye makeup removers or face care and body care preparations, make-up removal products, cleansing preparations, sunscreen products, anti-wrinkle products, hair preparations, repellent products, after-sun preparations, shower bases , Aftershave products, shaving preparations, deodorant / AT products, anti-acne preparations.

Waterproof eye make-up, for example mascara, can only be removed satisfactorily with make-up removers on an aqueous basis using special surfactants. However, these surfactants often have only limited physiological tolerance. When such substances come into contact with the mucous membrane, in particular the mucous membrane of the eyes, these substances cause irritation, which is manifested, for example, in reddening of the eyes. Reactions of this kind are typical for products containing surfactants.

An object of the present invention was therefore to remedy such problems.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations. In particular, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations for the care of the hair and the scalp. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to preparations which serve to strengthen the individual hair and / or to give the hair style overall hold and fullness.

Roughly generalized, human hair can be divided into the living part, the hair root, and the dead part, the hair shaft. The hair shaft in turn consists of the medulla, which, due to developmental history, has become insignificant and receded for modern humans and is often completely absent with thin hair, furthermore the cortex surrounding the medulla and the cuticle surrounding the whole of the medulla and cortex.

In particular, the cuticle, but also the keratinous region between cuticle and Cor ^¬ tex as the outer sheath of the hair are special stress due to environmental influences, by combing and brushing, but also by hair treatment, especially hair dyeing and hair styling, for example permanent wave process is suspended. In the case of particularly aggressive stress, for example bleaching with oxidants such as hydrogen peroxide, in which the pigments distributed in the cortex are oxidatively destroyed, the inside of the hair can also be affected. In practice, if human hair is to be permanently colored, only oxidizing hair dyeing methods can be used. In oxidative hair dyeing, the dye chromophore is formed by the reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, less often diamines) and bases (mostly p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% are usually used.

It is usually assumed that, in addition to the coloring effect, the hydrogen peroxide also has a bleaching effect. Similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes in the areas where melanin granules were present can be detected in oxidatively colored human hair. The fact is that the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide not only reacts with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance and can cause damage to the hair.

Washing the hair with aggressive surfactants can also stress the hair, at least reduce its appearance or the overall appearance of the hairstyle. For example, certain water-soluble hair components (e.g. urea, uric acid, xanthine, keratin, glycogen, citric acid, lactic acid) can be leached out by washing the hair.

For these reasons, hair care cosmetics have been used for some time, which are intended to be rinsed out of the hair after exposure, and others which are intended to remain on the hair. The latter can be formulated in such a way that they not only serve to care for the individual hair, but also improve the overall appearance of the hairstyle, for example by giving the hair more volume, fixing the hairstyle over a longer period of time or improving its manageability.

The combability of the hair, for example, can be decisively improved by quaternary ammonium compounds. Such connections pull on the hair and are often detectable on the hair after several washes.

However, the prior art lacked active ingredients and preparations which gave the damaged hair satisfactory care. Preparations which should give the hairstyle fullness also often proved to be inadequate, at least they were unsuitable for use as hair care preparations. Preparations of the prior art which fix the hairstyle generally contain, for example, viscous constituents which run the risk of awakening a feeling of stickiness which often has to be compensated for by skillful formulation.

The task was therefore to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

A particular object of the present invention was to provide gel-like or emulsion-like preparations based on finely dispersed, lecithin-containing systems of the oil-in-water type with the lowest possible emulsifier content, which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which are suitable for a wide variety of cosmetic products and / or dermatological applications, for example the uses described above. Another object of the invention was to enrich the limited range of transparent / translucent gel-like preparations based on finely dispersed, lecithin-containing systems of the oil-in-water type of the prior art.

Methods for producing O / W microemulsion gels by crosslinking hydrophobically modified water-soluble polymers have been described in WO 9628132. The advantageous use of lecithin was not mentioned.

Lecithin-containing microemulsions for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, parenteral applications are known from the literature and the patent system (see WO 9815255). It explains how lecithin-containing microemulsions based on ethylene oxide-free emulsifiers can be crosslinked to form the corresponding gels. The crosslinking of lecithin-containing O / W microemulsions or OΛ / V macroemulsions which contain ethoxylated or propoxylated O / W emulsifiers is not described. Furthermore, it is not described that it is possible to crosslink lecithin-containing O / W microemulsions or emulsions which contain ethoxylated or propoxylated O / W emulsifiers in combination with W / O emulsifiers. WO 0037042 describes gels which contain lecithin, an O / W and a W / O emulsifier, and water. Crosslinking with hydrophobically modified water-soluble polymers to form the microemulsion gel is not described. Lecithin organogels are described in the literature. These organogels are obtained by adding small amounts of water to a mixture of organic solvent and lecithin. When water is added, inverse micelles form cylinder-like water-filled micelles ("wormlike micelles") that loop together and thus explain the high viscosity of these mixtures. (Colloid Polym. Sci. 268, 1990, 356). Strictly speaking, these lecithin gels are not microemulsion gels, since the dispersed phase is not in droplet form and, furthermore, there is no corresponding viscosity-increasing substance for the continuous phase. Furthermore, it is not described that modified organogels can also be obtained in combination of an ethylene oxide / propylene oxide-containing O / W emulsifier with an ethylene oxide / propylene oxide-containing or also ethylene oxide / propylene oxide-containing W / O emulsifier which, after the addition of water, has a low viscosity Have the microemulsions and, with the subsequent addition of a crosslinking agent, converted into O / W microemulsion gels or O / W emulsions.

Furthermore, it is not described that modified organogels can also be obtained in combination of an ethylene oxide / propylene oxide-containing O / W emulsifier with an ethylene oxide / propylene oxide-containing or also ethylene oxide / propylene oxide-free W / O emulsifier, which can be obtained directly after adding water and a crosslinking agent Transfer to O / W microemulsion gels or O / W emulsions.

WO 0056366 describes microemulsion gels which are based on a polymeric hydrogel, such as carrageenan, xanthan gum (page 9, lines 23-32). The method of crosslinking phospholipid-containing microemulsions or emulsions is not disclosed.

Furthermore, WO 00610988 describes compositions containing phospholipids which are thickened by polysaccharides, gums and polyacrylamides to form emulsions and transparent gels. The process according to the invention for crosslinking phospholipid-containing microemulsions or emulsions is not described. Furthermore, hydrophobically modified polyethylene glycols, for example, are not described as suitable crosslinkers.

Also known are gel compositions containing lecithin which contain alcohol. Such gel-like preparations are often liposomal gels and not around O / W microemulsion gels or cross-linked emulsions, which can easily be determined from the absence of an oil phase in such preparations.

These tasks are solved according to the invention. The invention relates to a process for the preparation of crosslinked microemulsion gels or crosslinked O / W emulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a water phase and an oil phase which is composed essentially of non-volatile constituents, containing at least one phospholipid and at least one oil in water emulsifier and, if appropriate, a W / O emulsifier and, if desired, further auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients and at least one crosslinking agent, a) obtainable in such a way that the water phase with its constituents becomes the oil phase with its constituents, in particular the phospholipid, the O / W emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier, and wherein one or more crosslinkers are added to the water phase or the oil phase or to both phases, resulting in an increase in viscosity and preserving the gels and, with further addition of the water phase, microemulsion gels or crosslinked O / W emulsions result , or b) obtainable in such a way that the water phase with its constituents is added to the oil phase with its constituents, in particular the phospholipid, the O / W emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier, with an intermediate increase in viscosity and Low-viscosity phospholipid microemulsions or low-viscosity O / W emulsions are obtained, which are subsequently converted into microemulsion gels or crosslinked O / W emulsions by adding one or more crosslinking agents.

The water phase is expediently metered or added dropwise to the oil phase until there is an increase in viscosity or a gel is formed, and the remaining water phase is then metered in. The phospholipid is advantageously dissolved in the oil phase (if necessary in the heat). However, it is also possible to dissolve the phospholipid in the oil at room temperature. The O / W emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier can be added directly to the oil phase or only at the stage of gel formation or after the "pure" phospholipid organogel has been prepared. The water phase can be added at room temperature or at elevated temperature. Also, the crosslinking agent is unproblematic and can _take place in all manufacturing steps.

The droplets of the discontinuous oil phase are connected to one another by one or more crosslinking substances. The crosslinker structure is distinguished by at least one hydrophilic region which has an extent which is suitable for bridging the distance between the micro- or macroemulsion droplets from one another, and by at least one hydrophobic region, in particular at least two hydrophobic regions which are in contact with the micro- or

Macroemulsion droplets are able to interact in a hydrophobic manner. If only one hydrophobic region is present, gels or emulsions can arise in which entanglements of the hydrophilic domains of two or more polymers occur. A gel or a crosslinked emulsion is also obtained in this way.

It is equally advantageous if the crosslinking substance forms an independent gel network in which the micro- or macroemulsion droplets are then held in place by hydrophobic interaction (so-called associative thickeners are present), or whether the network is held together by the crosslinking with the microphones - or macroemulsion droplets in the nodes of the network.

The droplet diameters of the preparations according to the invention are preferably in the ranges mentioned at the beginning.

The crosslinking substances (one or more) advantageously used according to the invention generally follow structural schemes as follows:

AIA— B— A ^• A— B— A

I I

A - B - A A A

(1) (2) (3)

where B symbolizes a hydrophilic region of the respective crosslinker molecule and A each represents hydrophobic regions, which may also be of a different chemical nature within a molecule. But also structural diagrams like

A— B— A— B- -A A— B— A— B— A

1 | |

1 • 1 1

A— B— A— B— A A A A

(4) (5) (6)

A

1

A— B— A— B— A 1 f

| | A— B 1 - A— B 1 - -A

1 1 1 1 A A A A

(7) (8)

and analogously formed, even more complex structures definitely fall within the scope of the invention presented here.

Structural schemes also fall within the scope of the invention presented here:

A I

B I A— B— Z— B— A A— B— Z— B— A

I 1

B B

1 I

A— B— Z— B— A A A (9) (10) (11)

(12) (13)

where Z represents a central unit, which can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic and usually consists of an oligofunctional or polyfunctional molecular residue.

Of course, crosslinkers with a higher degree of branching also fall within the scope of the present invention.

For example, in scheme (10), Z can consist of a glyceryl residue, the three OH functions of which merge into regions B, which in turn can represent polyoxyethylene chains of the same or different lengths, and whose terminal OH group is esterified with a longer-chain fatty acid. Partial substitution of glycerol is also conceivable, which can result in structures which correspond to scheme (9).

The hydrophilic groups B can advantageously be chosen so that the crosslinking agent is water-soluble or at least dispersible in water, the hydrophobic portion of groups A then being overcompensated.

For the structure scheme (1), for example, the following more specific structure schemes can be followed:

Rr- Of-CH ₂ -CH-CH ₂ -OjR ₂

OH

where RL R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ , R ₅ and R _{6 can} independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals Alkyl or aryl substituents substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl radicals or also alkylated or arylated

Organylsilyl radicals. x means numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically chosen from the

Range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300. A and b are numbers that in

Dependence on x can be chosen such that the total molecule has at least sufficient water solubility or water dispersibility. In individual cases, for example if the crosslinker is selected from the group of the derivatized polysaccharides, x can also have values which are significantly higher than 300, even several

Millions, assume. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art and requires no further explanation.

For the structure scheme (2), for example, the following more specific structure schemes can be followed: where R ^ R ₂ and R _{3 can} independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, aryl substituted or unsubstituted by alkyl or aryl substituents - or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues. x, y and z mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.

Partial substitution is also conceivable, where one or more of the indices x, y, or z can assume the value zero and one or more of the radicals R 1, R ₂ or R ₃ can represent hydrogen atoms.

For the structure scheme (3), for example, the following more specific structure schemes can be followed:

where R 1, R ₂ , R ₃ and R _{4 can} independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, substituted by alkyl or aryl substituents or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues. u, v, w and x mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.

Here too, it goes without saying that partial substitution is conceivable, where one or more of the indices u, v, w, x can assume the value zero and one or more of the radicals R 1, R ₂ , R ₃ or R can represent hydrogen atoms. The substances naturally go into other structural schemes.

For the structure scheme (9), for example, the following more specific structure schemes can be followed:

where R _{1 t} R ₂ , R ₃ and R can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals. Alkyl or aryl substituents sub- substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues. x and y mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.

For the structure scheme (10), for example, the following more specific structure schemes can be followed:

where R _{1 (} R ₂ , and R _{3 can} independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, substituted by alkyl or aryl substituents or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues. x, y and z mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20 - 300.

For the structure scheme (11), for example, the following more specific structure scheme can be used be followed:

where Rt, R ₂ , R ₃ and R _{4 can} independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals substituted with alkyl or aryl substituents or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues. u, v, w and x mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300. k, I, m and n can independently represent numbers from 0 to 50.

For the structure scheme (12), for example, the following more specific structure scheme can be followed:

where R _L R ₂ , R ₃ , R and R _{5 can} independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, with alkyl or Aryl substituents substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues. u, v, w, x and y mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-100.

For the structure scheme (13), for example, the following more specific structure scheme can be followed:

where R 1, R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ , R ₅ and R _{6 can} independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, with alkyl or aryl substituents substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl radicals or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl radicals. u, v, w, x, y and z mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-1000.

It may also be advantageous to modify the structural schemes described above in such a way that branching occurs again at the end of the crosslinker molecule, approximately as it is realized in the group of the so-called dendrimers.

Particularly suitable crosslinkers have been found to be those selected from the group of polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where

R and R 'are independently branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or

Alkenyl radicals and n represent a number greater than 100, the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a number greater than 100, of the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R \ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number greater than 100, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number greater than 100, of the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O -) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number greater than 100, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals, where X un d Y are not identical and each represent either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another are numbers whose sum is greater than 100 of the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _π -Y _m -R ', where R and R 'independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and each represent either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently represent numbers the sum of which is greater than 100

The PEG-150 distearate, PEG 800 distearate, PEG-800 Chol ₂ and the PEG-150 dioleate are particularly advantageous. The PEG-300 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, the PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, the PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate, the PEG-450 sorbitol hexaisostearate and the PEG-230 glyceryl triisostearate can also be used advantageously as crosslinkers. PEG-200 glyceryl palmitate is also suitable. Furthermore, the crosslinking agent from Südchemie with the name Purethix 1442 (polyether-1) is also advantageous. It is also possible to use polyurethane crosslinkers, such as Rheolate 204, 205, 208 (Rheox company) or modified cosmetic variants or DW 1206B from Rhom & Haas or Serad Fx 1010, 1035 from Hüls. It is also advantageous to use mixtures of the polymers described above, for example from PEG 800 distearate and PEG-800 Chol ₂ . A slightly modified way of forming microemulsion gel consists of immobilizing the oil droplets using hydrophobically modified, synthetic or natural polymers. Such polymers are sometimes also referred to as associative thickeners.

1 and 2, the backbone of a water-soluble or water-dispersible crosslinking agent is represented by lines, the branching points representing hydrophobic groups covalently bound to the polymer, here symbolized by rectangles. The hydrophobic residues can attach to one another through hydrophobic interaction. Microemulsion droplets can also attach to the crosslinking sites through hydrophobic interactions. It is fundamentally irrelevant whether the hydrophobic residues "immerse" or whether the hydrophobic residues only come into contact with the microemulsion droplets on the surface and adhere more or less strongly to them.

Accordingly, it is also advantageous, in particular if the crosslinker (s) are to be selected from the group of associative thickeners, to select hydrophobically substituted polysaccharide derivatives, for example hydrophobically substituted cellulose ethers, hydrophobically substituted starches, alginates, glucans, chitins, dextrans, caseinates, pectins , Proteins and gums, also polyurethanes, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylates, water-soluble silicone polymers and the like.

For example, cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose can advantageously be used.

It may also be advantageous if the crosslinker (s) used according to the invention has or have physiological activity in the sense of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical effect. For example, those in the

German Offenlegungsschrift 43 44 661 disclosed biosurfactant ester advantageous in

Find meaning of the present invention.

Furthermore, in the case of crosslinked emulsions and microemulsions, combinations of the crosslinkers described above with classic polymers, which cannot crosslink due to their structure, are possible, which are referred to below as thickeners. Inorganic thickeners can also be used.

The inorganic thickener (s) can be advantageous, for example are selected from the group of modified or unmodified, naturally occurring or synthetic layered silicates. Very advantageous inorganic gel formers in the sense of the present invention are aluminum silicates such as montmorillonites (bentonites, hectorites and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites or stearalkonium hectorites) or magnesium-aluminum silicates (Veegum®- Types) as well as sodium-magnesium silicates (Laponite® types). BentoneD is one

Trade name for various neutral and chemically inert gelling agents that are made up of long-chain, organic ammonium salts and special types of montmorillonite.

The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be, for example:

Organic, natural compounds, such as agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, carob flour, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,

• organic, modified natural substances, such as. B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose, the like,

, organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as. B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides,

Polyurethanes. inorganic compounds, such as. B. polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas. Further hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Those in general are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention Also known as methyl celluloses are mixed cellulose ethers which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, also contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses are particularly preferred, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel® E4M by Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH ₂ -COONa. Particularly preferred are the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also referred to as cellulose gum.

For the purposes of the present invention, preference is furthermore given to xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 ^χ 10 ⁶ to 24 * 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain with β-1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name for the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain with ß-1, 4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthane. Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on the carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. The work-up takes place after killing the culture by precipitation with z. B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.

Another advantageous gel former in the sense of the present invention is. Carrageenan, a gel-forming extract similar to agar, made from North Atlantic red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata), which is one of the florids. The term carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of approx. 25%. Carrageenan, which is very easily soluble in warm water; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. There are three main components in carrageenan: The gel-forming κ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1,4 positions (In contrast, agar contains 3,6-anhydro-α-L-galactose). The non-gelling λ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues and the like. Easily soluble in cold water. The 1-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. The type of cations present (K ⁺ , NH ₄ ⁺ , Na ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.

The use of chitosan in cosmetic preparations is known per se. Chitossan is a partially deacylated chitin. Among other things, this biopolymer has film-forming properties and is characterized by a silky feeling on the skin. A disadvantage, however, is its strong stickiness on the skin, which occurs in particular - temporarily - during use. Appropriate preparations may then not be marketable in individual cases because they are not accepted by the consumer or judged negatively. Chitosan is known to be used, for example, in hair care. It is more suitable than the chitin on which it is based, as a thickener or stabilizer and improves the adhesion and water resistance of polymer films. Representing a large number of prior art sources: HPFiedler, "Lexicon of auxiliary substances for pharmacy, cosmetics and related areas", third edition 1989, Editio Cantor, Aulendorf, p. 293, keyword "Chitosan". It is advantageous to choose chitosans with molecular weights between 10,000 and 1,000,000, especially those with molecular weights between 100,000 and 1,000,000. [determined by gel permeation chromatography]. Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention. Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those which are selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of the BF Goodrich Company). In particular, the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:

R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.

According to the invention, particular preference is given to acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are available from the BFGoodrich Company under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984, preferably polyacrylates from the group of carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984 and particularly preferably Carbomer 2001

Copolymers of Cι ₀ are also advantageous. ₃₀ alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are crosslinked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

Compounds which have the INCI name “Acrylates / C ₁₀ . ₃ o te alkyl acrylamide Crosspolymer "wear. It is particularly advantageous under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 are available from the BF Goodrich Company.

Compounds which carry the INCI name ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers are advantageous. Advantageously according to the invention, the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers have the empirical formula [C ₇ H ₁₆ N ₂ SO ₄ ] _n [C ₆ H ₉ NO] _m , corresponding to a statistical structure as follows

Preferred species for the purposes of the present invention are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration numbers 58374-69-9, 13162-05-5 and 88-12-0 and are available under the trade name Aristoflex® AVC from Clariant GmbH.

Also advantageous are copolymers / crosspolymers comprising acryloyldimethyl taurates, such as Simugel® EG or Simugel® EG from Seppic S.A.

Further hydrocolloids which can advantageously be used according to the invention are also 1. Water-soluble or dispersible anionic polyurethanes which can advantageously be obtained from i) at least one compound which contains two or more active hydrogen atoms per molecule, ii) at least one diol containing acid or salt groups and iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Component i) is, in particular, diols, amino alcohols, diamines, polyesterols, polyetherols with a number-average molecular weight of up to 3,000 each, or mixtures thereof, with up to 3 mol% of the compounds mentioned fertilize can be replaced by triplets or triamines. Diols and polyester diols are preferred. In particular, component (a) comprises at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of component (a), of a polyester diol. Suitable polyester diols are all those which are customarily used for the production of polyurethanes, in particular reaction products of phthalic acid and diethylene glycol, isophthalic acid and 1,4-butanediol, isophthalic acid / adipic acid and 1,6-hexanediol and adipic acid and ethylene glycol or 5-NaSO ₃ isophthalic acid, phthalic acid, adipic acid and 1,6-hexanediol.

Useful diols are e.g. Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, polyetherols, such as polyethylene glycols with molecular weights up to 3000, block copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with number average molecular weights of up to 3000 or block copolymers of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, which distribute the alkylene oxide units statistically or in the form of Polymerized blocks included. Ethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta or hexaethylene glycol are preferred. Diols which can also be used are poly (D-hydroxycarboxylic acid) diols.

Suitable amino alcohols are. e.g. 2-aminoethanol, 2- (N-methylamino) ethanol, 3-aminopropanol or 4-aminobutanol.

Suitable diamines are e.g. Ethylene diamine, propylene diamine, 1, 4-diaminobutane and 1,6-diaminohexane as well as α, ω-diamines, which can be produced by amination of polyalkylene oxides with ammonia.

Component ii) is in particular dimethylolpropanoic acid or compounds of the formulas

where RR stands for a C ₂ -C ₈ alkylene group and Me stands for Na or K.

Component iii) is in particular hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, methyldiphenyl isocyanate (MDI) and / or tolylene diisocyanate. calculated, in which mean: η _r = relative viscosity (dynamic viscosity of the solution / dynamic viscosity of the solvent) and c = mass concentration of polymer in the solution (in g / cm ³ ).

2. Water-soluble or dispersible, cationic polyurethanes and polyureas from a) at least one diisocyanate, which may already have been reacted beforehand with one or more compounds which contain two or more active hydrogen atoms per molecule, and b) at least one Diol, primary or secondary amino alcohol, primary or secondary diamine or primary or secondary triamine with one or more tertiary, quaternary or protonated tertiary amino nitrogen atoms.

Preferred diisocyanates are as indicated under 1) above. Compounds with two or more active hydrogen atoms are diols, amino alcohols, diamines, polyesterols. Polyamide diamines and polyetherols. Suitable compounds of this type are indicated as under 1) above.

The polyurethanes are produced as described under 1) above. Charged cationic groups can be generated from the tertiary amino nitrogen atoms present either by protonation, for example with carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, or by quaternization, for example with alkylating agents such as C 1 -C 4 -alkyl halides or sulfates in the polyureas. Examples of such alkylating agents are ethyl chloride, ethyl bromide, methyl chloride, methyl bromide, dimethyl sulfate and di- ethyisulfat.

These polymers and their preparation are described in more detail in DE-A-42 41 118, to which reference is hereby made in full.

3. Linear polyurethanes with carboxylate groups from i) a 2,2-hydroxymethyl-substituted carboxylic acid of the formula

H ₂ C - OH

I

RR '- C - COOH

I

H ₂ C - OH in which RR 'represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 20 -alkyl group which is used in an amount sufficient to have 0.35 to 2.25 milliequivalents of carboxyl groups per g of polyurethane in the polyurethane,

ii) 10 to 90% by weight, based on the weight of the polyurethane, of one or more organic compounds having no more than two active hydrogen atoms and

iii) one or more organic diisocyanates.

The carboxyl groups contained in the polyurethane are finally at least partially neutralized with a suitable base. These polymers and their preparation are described in EP-A-619 111, to which reference is hereby made in full.

4. Carboxyl-containing polycondensation products from anhydrides of tri- or tetracarboxylic acids and diols, diamines or amino alcohols (polyesters, polyamides or polyester amides). These polymers and their preparation are described in more detail in DE-A-42 24 761, to which reference is hereby made in full.

5. Polyacrylates and polymethacrylates as described in more detail in DE-A-43 14 305, 36 27 970 and 29 17 504. Reference is hereby made in full to these publications. The total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, preferably between 0.01 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously each contain 0.001-20% by weight of one or more crosslinking agents and thickeners used according to the invention. The content of thickeners and crosslinking agents is preferably chosen in each case from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

“Lecithins” here also mean the phospholipids, which include, for example, the following substances: phosphatidic acids, the actual lecithins, cardolipins, lysophospholipids, lysolecithins, plasmalogens, phosphosphingolipids, sphingomyelines. Preferred substances are described below.

Phosphatidic acids are glycerol derivatives which are esterified in the 1-sn and 2-position with fatty acids (1-sn position: mostly saturated, 2-position: mostly mono- or polyunsaturated), on the other hand at atom 3-sn with phosphoric acid and by the general structural formula

O II CH ₂ - OC— R-,

R ₂ - O— C— H ² O II CH ₂ - O— P— OH 1

OH marked.

In the phosphatidic acids found in human or animal tissue, the phosphate residue is mostly esterified with amino alcohols such as choline (lecithin = 3-sn-phosphatidylcholine) or 2-aminoethanol (ethanolamine) or L-serine (cephalin = 3-sn-phosphatidylethanolamine or sn -Phosphatidyl-L-serine), with myo-inositol to the phosphoinositides common in tissues [1- (3-sn-phosphatidyl) -D-myo-inositol], with glycerin to phosphatidylglycerols. Especially lecithins (= 3-sn-phosphatidylcholine) are preferred.

Lecithins are of the general structural formula

characterized, wherein R ¹ and R ^{2 are} typically unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.

Cardiolipins (1,3-bisphosphatidylglycerols) are phospholipids made from two phosphatidic acids linked via glycerol. Lysophospholipids are obtained when an acyl residue is split off from phospholipids by phospholipase A (e.g. lysolecithins).

Lysophospholipids are characterized by the general structural formula

CH ₂ - O— C— R ₁

HIGH

CH ₅ - O— P— OH ² I

OH.

Lysolecithins, for example, are characterized by the general structural formula

where R and R ^{2 are} typically unbranched aliphatic radicals with 15 or 17 Represent carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.

The phospholipids also include plasmalogens in which an aldehyde (in the form of an enol ether) is bound in the 1 position instead of a fatty acid; the O-1-sn-alkenyl verb corresponding to the phosphatidylcholines. z. B. are called Phosphatidalcholine.

The basic structure of the phosphosphingolipids is sphingosine or phytosphingosine, which are characterized by the following structural formulas:

(Sphingosine) (phytosphingosine)

Modifications of sphingolipids are characterized, for example, by the general basic structure

in which R and R ₃ independently represent saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals of 1 to 28 carbon atoms, R _{2 is} selected from the group: hydrogen atom, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals of 1 to 28 carbon atoms , Sugar residues, phosphate groups esterified or unesterified with organic residues, sulfate groups esterified or unesterified with organic residues and Y either represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or another hetero-functional radical.

sphingophospholipids:

R _T and R ₃ represent alkyl radicals, R ₄ represents an organyl radical.

Sphingomyeline are organylphosphorylated sphingolipids of the type

Lecithins are particularly preferred phospholipids. Lecithin types to be used advantageously are selected from crude lecithins which have been deoiled and / or fractionated and / or spray dried and / or acetylated and / or hydrolyzed and / or hydrogenated. They are commercially available. Soy lecithins are preferred. Phospholipids to be used advantageously according to the invention can be purchased, for example, under the trade names Phospholipon 25 (Nattermann), Emulmetik 120 (Lucas Meyer), Sternpur E (Stern), Sternpur PM (Stern), Nathin 3KE (Stern), Phospholipon 90 (Rhönen-Poulenc ), Phospholipon 90 H (Rhône-Poulenc), Lipoid S 100 (Lipoid). Hydrogenated and non-hydrogenated phospholipids or corresponding combinations can also be used. The oils and fats common in cosmetics can be used as the oil phase.

The process according to the invention enables the production of finely divided microemulsion gels (the droplet size is in particular about 10-200 nm, particularly advantageously 10-175 nm) or crosslinked emulsions with a large number of typical oil phases: ether (dicaprylyl ether), carbonates (dicaprylyl carbonate), butylene glycol ester (butylene glycol Caprylates, caprates), tartaric acid esters, (D.-C12-13 alkyl tartrates), succinates (caprylic / capric diglyceryl succinates), triglycerides (caprylic / capric triglycerides), alcohols (octyldodecanol), ester oils (cetearyl isonoanoate), glyceride (glyceride) , Hydrocarbons (mineral oil, hydrogenated polydecene, isoeicosane, dioctylcyclohexane, squalane, squalene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone) or mixtures of these oil phases. Further, waxes part of the oil phase may be, for example, methyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, C ₂₀ - ₄₀ alkyl stearate, C _eighteenth ₃₆ acid triglyceride.

The intermediate-formed organo-gels (i.e. before dilution with water) can be applied by the consumer, for example, as a facial cleansing gel, hair gel, shaving gel, make-up gel, after-shave gel, cleansing gel. The dilution of these gels with water then leads, depending on the O / W emulsifier, W / O emulsifier and oil phase used, to O / W micro or O / W macroemulsions or corresponding gels / creams on the skin ,

Shower gels (foaming, not foaming) can also be applied topically. The shower water transfers the gel on the skin into a water-continuous micro or macro emulsion. The added phospholipid and other ingredients of the preparation remain on the skin (moisturizing). Furthermore, these gels can advantageously be used to remove skin impurities. The gels have the advantageous property of solubilizing lipid-soluble impurities on the skin. These make-up removing gels, cleansing gels, body cleansing gels can then be diluted with water by the user, the sebum being solubilized in the oil droplets so that pore-deep cleaning of the skin is made possible. At the same time, part of the phospholipid remains on the skin and thus increases the moisture content. The following weight percentages, each based on the total weight of the preparations, are preferred for the modified organo-gels:

Phospholipid: 0.1 - 50%

O / W emulsifier: 0.1-70%

W / O emulsifier 0.1-70%

Oil phase: 5 - 90%

Additives for the oil phase: 0.01-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-35% water ad 100%

For the microemulsion gels or O / W emulsions according to the invention, the following amounts by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the

preparations:

Phospholipid: 0.01-10%, especially 0.1-5.0%

O / W emulsifier: 0.01-60%, especially 0.1-10%

W / O emulsifier 0.1-60%, especially 0.1-10%

Oil phase: 0.01 - 50%, in particular 0.1 - 30% additives for the oil phase: 0.01-20%, in particular 0.1-15%

Additives for the water phase: 0.01-80%, especially 0.1-60%

Crosslinker 0.01-70%, especially 0.1-10%

Thickener (non-crosslinking): 0.01-20%, especially 0.1-10%

Water ad 100%

The weight ratio phospholipid / (O / W emulsifier / W / O emulsifier) in the preparations according to the invention can vary, e.g. from 1:30 to 2: 1. The ratio of phospholipid / OW emulsifier is preferably 1:15 to 1: 1. The ratio of phospholipid / OW emulsifier is particularly preferably 1: 6 to 1: 1, 3. The ratio of (phospholipid + W / O emulsifier) to O / W emulsifier can vary, e.g. 1: 30 to 2: 1, the ratio is preferably (phospholipid + W / O

Emulsifier) to O / W emulsifier 1: 6 to 1: 1.3.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention are O / W microemulsion gels and O / W emulsions,

(a) based on microemulsions and O / W emulsions of the oil-in-water type, which comprise a discontinuous oil phase and a continuous water phase - optionally containing at least one W / O emulsifier containing at least one phospholipid and containing at least one polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier, the polyethooxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier or the polyethooxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers being advantageously chosen or are selected from the group of fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 50 of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general Formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently branched or unbranched e represents alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n represents a number from 10 to 80 - the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 40, of the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO- ( -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80, of the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80, the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids and a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 50, the ethoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of ethoxylation of 3 to 100 the cholesterol ethoxylates with a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 50, the ethoxylated triglycerides with a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 150, the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetic or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester based on branched or unbranched alkane or alkenoic acids and a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 comprising, for example of the sorbeth type, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H on which these sulfates are based, with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R is a branched chain or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n are a number from 1 to 50. the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 80, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80 of the propoxylated wool wax _. Kohole, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R \ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of 10 to 80 represent the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a number from 10 to 80, of the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 80, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids and a degree of propoxylation between 3 and 80 of the propoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100 of the cholesterol propoxylates with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100 of the propoxylated triglycerides 3 with a degree of propoxylation to 100 of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 3 to 50, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or Alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n representing a number from 1 to 50, the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Ym-H, where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical, where X and Y are not identical and each represent either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another are numbers from 5 to 50, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

ROX _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and each have either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another are numbers from 5 to 100 represent the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another represent numbers from 5 to 100, the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or Alkenyl radical, where X and Y are not identical and each represent either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another are numbers from 5 to 50,

- The water-dispersible silicone emulsifiers

The W / O emulsifiers (one or more) optionally contained can preferably be selected from the group

- The fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 10

the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 30

the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 20,

the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of Represent 1 to 20,

the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n one Represent a number from 1 to 40,

the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 40 represent

the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 30,

the polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester based on branched or unbranched alkanoic or alkenoic acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 10

cholesterol ethoxylates with a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 10,

the ethoxylated glycerides with a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 30

- The ethoxylated triglycerides with a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and

30

the monoglycerol ether of the type RO-CH ₂ -C (H) OH-CH ₂ OH where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and

the monoglycerol ester of the type RC (O) OCH ₂ -C (H) OH-CH ₂ OH where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical

- The diglycerol ester of the type RC (O) OCH ₂ -C (H) OH-CH ₂ OC (O) R \ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 30 or represent

polyglycerol mono- or di- or polyester, where the fatty acids are independently branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,

the pentaerythritol ester, the fatty acids independently of one another being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals, the propylene glycol ester, the fatty acids independently representing branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues,

the sorbitan ester, where the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues,

the fatty alcohols R-OH and fatty acids RCOOH, where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical,

the silicone emulsifiers such as, for example, dimethicone copolyol, alkyl dimethicone copolyol (cetyl dimethicone copolyol), alkyl methicone copolyols (lauryl methicon copolyol), octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucosides of methyl glucose esters, the fatty acids independently being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals.

The total emulsifier content is preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is particularly advantageous if the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier or the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers is selected or are selected from the group of fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO- (-CH -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical with 5 - 30 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 25 of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols with HLB values of 11 - 16, the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number represent from 10 to 25, the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 - 30 C atoms and n a Represent the number from 10 to 25 , the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R \ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n are a number from 10 to 50, the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R \ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals with 5 - 30 C - Atoms and n represent a number from 10 to 50, the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids with 6 to 26 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 40 of the ethoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of ethoxylation of 3 to 30% Cholesterol ethoxylates with HLB values of 11-16, the ethoxylated triglycerides with HLB values of 11-16, the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetic or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or un are branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n are a number from 10 to 20, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester based on branched or unbranched alkanoic or alkenoic acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 10 to 80, for example of the sorbeth type , the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical 5 - 30 carbon atoms and n represent a number from 3 to 30, the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 30, the polypropylene glycol ether general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number of 10 to 40, the propoxylated wool wax alcohols with HLB values of 11-16, the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched Represent alkyl or alkenyl radicals with 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n a number from 10 to 40, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 30, of the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ( CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 50, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids with 6 to 26 carbon atoms and a degree of propoxylation between 3 and 50 of the propoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 80 - the cholesterol propoxylates with HLB values of 11 - 16, the propoxylated Triglycerides with HLB values from 11 to 16, the alkyleth carboxylic acids of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a Represent the number from 10 to 30, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R represent a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 1 to 30. - the water-dispersible silicone emulsifiers of the type Bis PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 dimethicone + caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride (Abil Care 85)

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-16, provided the O W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R 'or if there are isoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher. It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:

Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol ( 17) stearyl ether (Steareth-1), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20), polyethylene glycol (21) stearyl ether (Steareth-21)

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol ( 16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19-), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17 ) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),

Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolureth-12). Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol 17) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycolate (19) , Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate

Sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (δO) evening primrose glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (evening primrose = evening primrose) It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate 20, glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also favorable to choose the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Abil Care 85 can be selected as the silicone emulsifier.

The following optional W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C - Atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hyd roxyalkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms and sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids or hydroxyalkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate Glycerylmonoiso-, glyceryl, Triglycerindiisostearat, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglycerylmonoisostearat, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan, Sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, p-glyceryl 45-methacrylate, p-glyceryl-45 -Dodecyl glycol copolymer, methyl glucose sesquistearate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyols, alkyl methicone copolyols, alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate can be used.

It is possible according to the invention to keep the total content of emulsifiers less than 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the microemulsion gels according to the invention and O / W emulsions. It is preferred to keep the total emulsifier content less than 10% by weight, in particular less than 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the microemulsion gels.

Glycerol, chitosan, fucogel, 2-methylpropanediol, polyethylene glycol, lactic acid, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, acids and their salts such as sodium pyrolidonecarboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, amino acids, urea, electrolytes, preferably sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium are advantageously used as skin moisturizers use. Glycerin alone and in combination with one of the previously mentioned moisturizers is particularly advantageous.

It can be shown that skin-moistening ingredients containing microemulsion gels and O / W emulsions have excellent properties for moistening, smoothing and reducing the flaky skin. This is generally only known from classic creams or lotions, but not from transparent gels.

The oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecylolate, erytylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate, erylolate; such esters, for example jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or saturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Examples are advantageous dicaprylyl carbonate, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, D.-C12- 13 alkyl tartrate, caprylic / capric diglyceryl succinate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isonoanoate, cocoglyceride, mineral oil, hydrogenated polydecanaleno, isoeacylalcene, iso , C ₁₂ . ₁₅ alkyl benzoate or mixtures of these oil phases.

Mixtures of Cι ₂ are particularly advantageous. _15- alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostate, mixtures of C ₁₂ . ₁₅ alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C ₁₂ .i ₅ alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate. Furthermore, waxes can also be part of the oil phase, such as, for example, methyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, C ₂ o- ₄ o-alkyl stearate, C ₁₈ . ₃₆ acid triglyceride. In such cases, the O / W microemulsions according to the invention may also be obtained as microdispersions of solid wax particles.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention used. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The microemulsion gels according to the invention advantageously contain electrolytes, in particular one or more salts with the following anions: chlorides, furthermore inorganic oxo-element anions, of which in particular sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, borates and aluminates. Electrolytes based on organic anions can also be used advantageously, for example lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, tartrates, citrates and others. Comparable effects can also be achieved with ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its salts.

Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron and zinc ions are preferably used as cations of the salts. There is no need to mention that only physiologically acceptable electrolytes should be used in cosmetics. Special medical applications of the microemulsions according to the invention can, on the other hand; at least fundamentally, the use of electrolytes, which should not be used without medical supervision.

Sodium and potassium chloride, sodium and potassium bromide, magnesium and calcium chloride, magnesium and calcium bromide, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. Salt mixtures as they occur in the natural salt from the Dead Sea are also advantageous. All of these salts are beneficial because they stimulate endogenous lipid synthesis.

The concentration of the electrolyte or electrolytes should, for example, be approximately 0.1-10.0% by weight, particularly advantageously approximately 0.3-8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The microemulsion gels or emulsions according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, in particular if they are provided with one or more substances which promote smoothing of the skin. The preparations described below can be microemulsion gels or O / W emulsions according to the invention.

If the microemulsion gels or O / W emulsions according to the invention form the basis for cosmetic deodorants / antiperspirants, all common active ingredients can be used advantageously, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume components, odor absorbers, for example the layered silicates described in the patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, and furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid. Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the microemulsions according to the invention. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds , Clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11.trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) as well as those in the patent publications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE- 42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 09 372, DE-43 24 219 described active agents.

The customary antiperspirant active ingredients can likewise be used advantageously in the microemulsions according to the invention, in particular astringents, for example basic aluminum chlorides.

The cosmetic deodorants according to the invention can be in the form of aerosols, ie from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or preparations sprayable by a pump device, or in the form of liquid compositions which can be applied by means of roll-on devices, but also in the form of microemulsions which can be applied from normal bottles and containers ,

Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic deodorants according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously. Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would in principle be suitable for the present invention, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with, in particular chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), because of their harmful effects on the environment or other associated circumstances.

It has also been found in a surprising way, that in the Verwen- ^"So for example, customary propane butane mixtures, O the invention / fertil soluble in the oil phase propellants, W microemulsions or emulsions not simply as an aerosol droplets are sprayed, but to develop into fine-bubble, rich foams as soon as such systems loaded with such blowing agents experience pressure relief.

Such post-foaming preparations are therefore also regarded as advantageous embodiments of the present invention with independent inventive activity.

When using blowing agents which are insoluble in the oil phase, the preparations according to the invention are sprayed as aerosol droplets.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. In addition to the active compound combinations according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to create cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances eg 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid derivative, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amine, yl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid

(4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

Triazines such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine,

Dioctylbutamidotriazon (Uvasorb HEB, Sigma 3V), Triazine (Triazole) under the trade name Tinosorb M and S (Ciba), Uvinul T 150

Dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, either individually or in any Combinations with each other.

The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or salts thereof, e.g. Sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, as well as the sulfonic acid itself

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

A weiterere according to the invention can be used advantageously tersubstanz Lichtschutzfil- ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539th

It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to incorporate further UV-A and / or UV-B filters into cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

The invention also relates to the combination of a UVA filter according to the invention with a UVB filter or a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention which also contains a UVB filter.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4th '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, Zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.

An astonishing property of the present invention is that preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, advantageous active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.

According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications are used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional antioxidants. It is advantageous to use antioxidants as the only class of active ingredient, for example when cosmetic or dermatological application is in the foreground, such as combating the oxidative stress on the skin. However, it is also advantageous to provide the preparations according to the invention with one or more antioxidants if the preparations are to serve another purpose, e.g. as deodorants or sunscreens.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, pentimina-, hexa-, hexa-, hexa- in s Very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), Hu- minic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and Derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg - ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherpole and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E - acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A - palmitate) as well as konyferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, Butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSθ4) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbene and its derivatives ) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids ) of these active ingredients.

Water-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

An astonishing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose. According to the invention, the active ingredients (one or more compounds) can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:

Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, for example hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheaply the vitamin B ^ the vitamin B _{12 and} the vitamin Di , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, in particular the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor , Extracts or other products of vegetable and animal origin, for example evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to select the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit ^® and Neocerit ^® .

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention are intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin ,

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active ingredient (s) are furthermore advantageously selected from the group comprising catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of Plant family Theaceae, especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids) are particularly advantageous. Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4- dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) represent. epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', ^4,, 5,7-flavanpentaol) is also an advantageous active ingredient according to the present invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. talien- sis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) -Epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z to Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups are branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues. According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group Group of the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

wherein Gly _t, Gly Gly ₂ and ₃ independently of one another, are monoglycoside radicals. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, can also be used advantageously if appropriate. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues. Z- _! to Z ₅ independently selected from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:

where Gly ^ Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly-i, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, can also be used advantageously if appropriate. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention that the flavongly to be selected coside from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, -Glucosyliso- quercitrin, -Glucosylisoquercetin and α-Glucosylquercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Also advantageous according to the invention are naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucosid), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy -3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3.3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetin (3, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3', 4 ', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone) -7-glucoside), flavanomareϊn (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetra-hydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (ß-D- glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to choose the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bio-quinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are classified as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or according to the number of C- Atoms referred to as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. Q10 predominates in most mammals, including humans. Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are named accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives, phsophocreatine are also preferred active substances in the sense of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.

Another advantageous active ingredient is L-camitin [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) -butter-acid-betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of following general structural formula

O

\\ C— R

/ O

(H ₃ C) ₃ N - CH ₂ - C - CH ₂ - COO-

H where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcamitine are preferred. Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It can also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Further advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, aminoguadin, phytochelatin, isoflavones (genistein, daidzein, daidzin, glycitin), niacin, tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid, adenosine, pyridoxine, arginine, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The list of the active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting. The active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.

Active substances can be contained in the preparations in the amounts of 0.0001-25% by weight, preferably 0.001-20% by weight, in particular 0.01-10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

Although the use of hydrophilic active substances is of course also favored according to the invention, a further advantage of the microemulsions or emulsions according to the invention is that the high number of finely divided droplets makes especially oil-soluble or lipophilic active substances biologically available with particularly great effectiveness.

/ It is also advantageous to select the active ingredients from the group of lipid-replenishing substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit ^® and Neocerit ^® . It is also possible and possibly advantageous to add detergent surfactants to the preparations according to the invention. Aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or water-free or anhydrous cleaning agent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning can contain cationic, anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example conventional soaps, for example sodium fatty acid salts, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkylbenzenesulfonates, sulfoacetates, sulfoacetates Sarcosinates, amidosulfobetanes, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid semiesters, alkyl ether carboxylates, protein-fatty acid condensates, alkyl betanes and amidobetanes, fatty acid alkanolamides, polyglycol ether derivatives.

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or semi-solid form, for example as gels. They preferably contain at least one anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can preferably be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can preferably be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts, for example, are advantageous to use.

In addition to the aforementioned surfactants, the preparations according to the invention for cleaning the hair or skin contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts , Vitamins, active ingredients and the like. In spite of their oil content, the preparations according to the invention surprisingly have very good foaming, high cleansing power and have a highly regenerative effect on the general skin condition. In particular, the preparations according to the invention have a skin-smoothing effect, reduce the feeling of dryness of the skin and make the skin supple.

If the preparations according to the invention are to be used for hair care, they can contain the usual constituents, usually for example film-forming polymers. Of such polymers with at least partially quaternized nitrogen groups (hereinafter referred to as "film formers"), preference is given to those which are selected from the group of substances which, according to the INCI nomenclature (international nomenclature cosmetic ingredient), have the name "polyquaternium" wear, for example:

Polyquaternium-2 (Chemical Abstracts No. 63451-27-4, e.g. Mirapol® A-15) Polyquaternium-5 (copolymer of the acrylamide and the ß-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, CAS No. 26006-22-4)

Polyquatium-6 (homopolymer of N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propen-1-aminium chloride, CAS No. 26062-79-3, e.g. Merquat® 100

Polyquaternium-7 N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propen-1-aminium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, CAS no. 26590-05-6, e.g. Merquat® S

Polyquaternium-10 Quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose, CAS no. 53568-66-4, 55353-19-0, 54351-50-7, 68610-92-4, 81859-24-7, e.g. Celquat® SC-230M,

Polyquaternium-11 vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer / diethyl sulfate reaction product, CAS no. 53633-54-8, e.g. Gafquat® 755N Polyquatemium-16 vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazolinium methochloride copolymer, CAS No. 29297-55-0, e.g. Luviquat® HM 552

Polyquaternium-17 CAS-No. 90624-75-2, e.g. Mirapol® AD-1 Polyquaternium-19 Quaternized water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol Polyquaternium-20 water-dispersible quaternized polyvinyl octadecyl ether Polyquaternium-21 polysiloxane-polydimethyl-dimethylammonium acetate copolymer, e.g. Abil® B 9905 Polyquatemium-22 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer, CAS no.

53694-7-0, e.g. Merquat® 280 polyquaternium-24 polymer quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose,

Reaction product with an epoxide substituted with lauryldimethylammonium, CAS no. 107987-23-5, e.g. Quatrisoft® LM-200

Polyquatemium-28 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride-

Copolymer, e.g. Gafquat® HS-100 Polyquatemium-29 e.g. Lexquat® CH

Polyquaternium-31 CAS-No. 136505-02-7, e.g. Hypan® QT 100 Polyquaternium-32 N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -ethanaminium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, CAS no. 35429-19-7 Polyquaternium-37 CAS-No. 26161-33-1 cetyltrimethyiamonium salts such as CTAB, CTAC.

Preparations according to the invention for hair care advantageously contain 0.01-5% by weight of one or more film formers, preferably 0.1-3% by weight, in particular 0.2-2% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. Such embodiments of the preparations according to the invention care for hair damaged or damaged by environmental influences or prevent such environmental influences. In addition, the preparations according to the invention impart loose fullness and firmness to the hairstyle without being tacky.

Accordingly, the preparations according to the invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as a skin protection emulsion, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient lotion, day or night emulsion, etc.

The preparations according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, especially if they are provided with one or more substances which promote smoothing of the skin.

It may be possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations. The transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid. According to the invention, all classes of active substance are in principle pharmaceutical active substances suitable, with lipophilic active substances being preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, active substances that promote blood circulation, keratolytics, hormones, steroids, vitamins, etc.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used particularly advantageously.

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids, alcohols, diols or low C number polyols, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.

Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, percentages or parts relate to the weight of the preparations or the respective mixture.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

Phosphatidylcholine (Phospholipon 90, Nattermann) was used as lecithin in the examples. example 1

Gesichtspflegegel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

Isoceteth 20 2,500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 2,500

Tocopherol 0.500

Polyether 1 (Pure Thix TX 1442) 1,000

Preservation, antioxidant q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 2

Anti-Acne Gel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

PEG-25 stearate 2,500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 2,500

Tocopherol 0.500

PEG-300 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 1,000

Preservation, anti-acne active ingredient q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 3

Gesichtspflegegel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

PEG-25 sorbitan isostearate 2,500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoates 2,500

PEG-800 Distearate 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 4

Gesichtspflegegel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

PEG-25 stearate 2,500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoates 2,500

PEG-800 Distearate 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 5

Gesichtspflegegel

weight

Lecithin 0.500

PEG-25 stearate 2,500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 2,500

Up to PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 0.01

Dimethicone + Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (Abil Care 85)

PEG-800 distearate 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 6

Haarpflegegel

Wt% lecithin 3,000 isoceteth-20 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

PEG 300 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 1, 00 preservation, active ingredient q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 7

body gel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-45 palm kernel oil glyceride 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Sericoside 1,000

Cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose 2,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 8

Basis for shaving gel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl carbonate 5,000

PEG-800 Chol ₂ 1,000

Preservation, anti-irritant ingredient q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 9

Aftershave gel

% By weight lecithin 1,000

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 6,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

PEG-150 Distearate 1,000

Preservation, aftershave active ingredient, q.s.

Panthenol water ad

100000

Example 10

Facial cleansing gel or anti-aging gel

Wt% lecithin 2,000

Decaglyceryl monolaurate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Carnithine, Biotin (1: 1) 1,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

PEG-800 distearate 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 11

shower gel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,500

PEG-20 glyceryl laurate 3,500

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

PEG-150 Distearate 2,000

Preservation, shower care additive q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 12

Deodorant / antiperspirant gel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 monostearate 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Aluminum chlorohydrate 20.00

PEG-800 distearate 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 13

Gesichtspflegegel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 glyceryl stearate 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Creatine, lipoic acid (1: 1) 1,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

PEG-300-pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 1,000%

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 14

Pre-shave gel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 4,000

Ceteareth-12 3,000

Glycerin 5,000

PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate 1,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 15

Abschminkgel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Octyl dodecanol 5,000

Lipoic acid / biotin (1: 1) 0.500

Cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 16

perfume gel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 5,000

PEG-230 glyceryl triisostearate 1,000

Preservation, perfume q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 17

Gel for the scalp

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dioctylcyclohexane 5,000

Urethane C _t . ₂₀ alkyl PEG copolymer 1,000

Preservation, scalp acts off q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 18

Repellent angel with alcohol

Wt .-%

Lecithin 1,000

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 6,000

Glycerin 5,000

Ethanol 5,000

Dioctylcyclohexane 5,000

PEG-150 distearate 2,000

Preservation, repellent active q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 19

% By weight lecithin 1,000

Oleth-15 6,000

Glycerin 5,000

Octyl dodecanol 5,000

Modified alkyl. Acrylate 1,000

Creatine / Biotin 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 20

Anti-aging gel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000 isoceteth 20 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 5,000

Carnithine / Retinol (1: 1) 0.500

PEG-800 distearate 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 21

Anti-aging body care gel

Wt% lecithin 3,000

PEG-45 palm kernel oil Glycerides 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dioctylcyclohexane 5,000

Creatine ester / coenzyme Q-10 (1: 1) 0.500

PEG-800 Distearate / PEG-800 Chol ₂ (1: 1) 1,000 preservation qs

Water ad

100000

Example 22

Skin whitening gel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-45 palm kernel oil glyceride 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 5,000

Polyether 1 (Pure Thix TX 1442) 1,000

Dioic Acid 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 23

Wt% lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Octyl dodecanol 5,000

Coenzyme Q-10 / lipoic acid (1: 1) 0.500

Polyether 1 (Pure Thix TX 1442) 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 24

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5,000

Coenzyme Q-10 / Biotin (1: 1) 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Polyether 1 (Pure Thix TX 1442) 1,000

Water ad

100000 Example 25

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 5,000

Adenosine / lipoic acid (1: 1) 0.500

PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate. 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 26

shower gel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

Lauryl ether sulfate (25%) 40,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Sodium chloride 7,000

PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate 1,000

Conservation q.s

Water ad

100000 Example 27

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Hydrogenated polydecene 2,500

PEG-25 stearate 2,500

Polyether 1 (Pure Thix TX 1442) 1,000

Conservation q.s

Water ad

100000

Example 28

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Isoeicosan 2,500 isoceteth-20 2,500

Polyether 1 (Pure Thix TX 1442) 1,000

Conservation q.s

Water ad

100000 Example 29

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Hydrogenated polydecene 2,500

PEG-25 stearate 2,500

Polyether 1 (Pure Thix TX 1442) 1,000

Conservation q.s

Water ad

100000

Example 30

Facial Care Cream

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

Isoceteth 20 2,500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 4,500

Tocopherol 0.500

Polyether 1 (Pure Thix TX 1442) 1,000

Preservation, antioxidant q.s.

Water ad

100,0ι Example 31

Anti-acne cream

Wt .-%

Lecithin. 0,500

PEG-25 stearate 2,500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 3,500

Tocopherol 0.500

PEG-300 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 1,000

Preservation, anti-acne active ingredient q.s.

Water ad

Example 32

Facial Care Cream

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

PEG-25 sorbitan isostearate 2,500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearylisononanoate 3,500

PEG-800 Distearate 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 33

Gesichtspflegegel

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

PEG-25 stearate 2,500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearylisononanoate 4,500

PEG-800 Distearate 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 34

Facial Care Lotion

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.500

PEG-25 stearate 2,500

Glycerin isostearate 0.500

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 4,500

Up to PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 0.01

Dimethicone + Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (Abil Care 85)

PEG-800 distearate 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 35

Hair Care Lotion

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000 isoceteth-20 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

PEG 300 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate 1, 00

Preservation, active ingredient q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 36

Body Care Cream / Iotion

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-45 palm kernel oil glyceride 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Sericoside 1,000

Cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose 2,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 37

Basis for shaving cream / lotion

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl carbonate 7,000

PEG-800 Chol ₂ 1,000

Consensation, anti-irritant agent q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 38

Aftershave cream / Iotion

% By weight lecithin 1,000

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 6,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

PEG-150 Distearate 1,000

Preservation, aftershave active ingredient, q.s.

Panthenol water ad

100000 Example 39

Facial cleansing cream or anti-aging cream

Wt% lecithin 2,000

Decaglyceryl monolaurate 5,000

Glycerin 7,000

Carnithine, Biotin (1: 1) 1,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

PEG-800 distearate 1,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 40

shower cream

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,500

PEG-20 glyceryl laurate 3,500

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

PEG-150 Distearate 2,000

Preservation, shower care additive q.s.

Water ad

100000

Claims

claims:

1. A process for the preparation of crosslinked microemulsion gels or crosslinked O / W emulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a water phase and an oil phase. which is composed essentially of non-volatile constituents, containing at least one phospholipid and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally a W / O emulsifier and, if desired, further auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients and at least one crosslinker, a) available in such a way that the water phase with its constituents is added to the oil phase with its constituents, in particular the phospholipid, the O / W emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier, and wherein one or more crosslinkers are added to the water phase or the Oil phase or be given in both phases, resulting in an increase in viscosity and the gels are obtained, and with further addition of the water phase, microemulsion gels or crosslinked O / W emulsions result, or b) obtainable in such a way that the water phase with its components to the oil phase with its constituents, in particular the phospholipid, the O / W emulsifier and, if appropriate, the W / O emulsifier is given, whereby there is an intermediate increase in viscosity and low-viscosity phospholipid microemulsions or low-viscosity O / W emulsions are obtained, which are then converted into microemulsion gels or crosslinked O / W emulsions by adding one or more crosslinkers.

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the phospholipid used is phosphatidylcholine, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylserine, individually or in combination.

3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier is chosen as the O / W emulsifier.

4. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that as O / W emulsifier ceteth-15, ceteth-16, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-16, isoceteth-20, isosteareth-20, steareth-20, oleth-15, Laureth -15, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-25 stearate, PEG-20 oleate, PEG-20 sorbitan stearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan oleate, sodium laureth-11 carboxylate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, PEG-30 cholesteryl ether, PEG-60 Evening Primrose Glyceride, Bis PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 Dimethicone + Caprylic Acid / Capric Acid Triglyceride (Abil Care 85), PEG-45 Palm Oil Glyceride, PEG-20 Glyceryl Laurate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glycerin Isostearate or combinations selected the aforementioned can be chosen.

5. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that a combination of at least one polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier and a W / O emulsifier is selected.

6. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that as W / O emulsifier glyceryl stearate, glycerol isostearate, glyceryl linoleate, diglycerol isostearate, triglycerol diisostearate, sorbitan isostearate, propylene glycol isostearate,

Propylene glycol stearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, steareth-2, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl caprinate, glyceryl caprylate, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, PEG-5-cholesteryl ether PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, P

45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22-dodecyl glycol copolymer,

Methyl glucose sesquistearate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyols, alkyl methicone copolyols, alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside can be used.

7. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that as crosslinking agent individually or in combination in each case hydrophobically substituted cellulose ethers, starches, acrylates, alginates, glucans, chitins, dextrans, caseinates, pectins, proteins and gums, polyurethanes, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylates, water-soluble silicone polymers are used.

8. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that as the crosslinking agent PEG-150 distearate, PEG 800 distearate, PEG-800 Chol ₂ , PEG-150 dioleate, PEG-300 pentaerythrityltetraisostearate, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate, PEG- 160- Sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-450 sorbitol hexaisostearate, PEG-230 glyceryl triisostearate PEG-200 glyceryl palmitate, polyether-1, polyurethane crosslinker Rheolate 204, 205, 208, cetylhydr xyethyl cellulose can be used.

9. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that combinations of crosslinking agents and non-crosslinking thickeners are used. 0. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that one or more

Skin moisturizers such as glycerin, chitosan, fucogel, 2 methyl propanediol, polyethylene glycol, lactic acid, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, acids and their salts such as sodium pyrolidonecarboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid,

Amino acids, urea, electrolytes, preferably salts of inorganic and / or organic acids, in particular sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium salts can be used.