EP1461059A1

EP1461059A1 - Active substances for use in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical products, obtainable from the fermentation of plant components and/or plant extracts

Info

Publication number: EP1461059A1
Application number: EP03702392A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Philippe Moussou; Louis Danoux; Gilles Pauly
Original assignee: Cognis France SAS
Current assignee: BASF Health and Care Products France SAS
Priority date: 2002-01-15
Filing date: 2003-01-07
Publication date: 2004-09-29
Also published as: JP2005521649A; FR2834718A1; FR2834718B1; AU2003205571A1; WO2003059368A1; US20050089499A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical active substances that are obtained by fermenting plant components and/or plant extracts and to a corresponding method. Said method comprises the following steps: (a) the plant components and/or plant extracts are reduced in size and/or pressed out and/or extracted and processed to a fermentation broth; (b) the fermentation broth is optionally pasteurized or sterilized; (c) the fermentation broth so prepared is inoculated with microorganisms; (d) the fermentation broth so inoculated is fermented; and optionally (e) after completion of fermentation, the fermentation broth is reprocessed and the active substances are removed.

Description

ACTIVE SUBSTANCES FOR COSMETIC AND / OR PHARMACEUTICAL USE,

FROM FERMENTATION OF PLANT COMPONENTS AND / OR

HERBAL EXTRACTS ARE OBTAINED

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to new active ingredients from fermented plant components and / or vegetable extracts, a process for their preparation, preparations containing these active ingredients and a large number of uses for the new active ingredients.

State of the art

The desire for eternal beauty and youth has existed since ancient times. While it has been handed down from Cleopatra that she regularly took a bath in donkey milk - today we know about the effect of the milk proteins contained in it - less wealthy women had to hope that their wishes would be answered by the gods. It can be assumed that this has rarely been crowned with success. Nowadays, youthful appearance and wrinkle-free skin is not a privilege of a few consumers, but is generally available to all women despite the sometimes considerable price differences in the preparations. Even if cosmetic chemistry cannot work miracles, knowledge about the biochemical processes in the cells of skin and hair has increased by leaps and bounds in recent years. As a consequence, approaches have naturally arisen in which way one can prevent or remedy damage caused by natural aging or environmental influences. In the same way, however, the requirements that consumers (and increasingly also consumers) place on such so-called "anti-aging agents" have risen. Quite apart from the fact that the preparations should in principle have a nourishing character, which should protect the skin against dehydration and must be optimally compatible with the skin and possibly mucous membranes, they should protect against UV radiation and environmental toxins, stimulate the immune system and have an anti-inflammatory effect.

In this context, it should be pointed out that the use of fermentation products from milk proteins, such as kefir, kumys, kuban, life and mazun, is well known for human consumption [cf. e.g. Hesseltine, Mycologia 57, 1-148 (1965)]. Agave fermentation products are known as pulque. By fermenting sucrose, raisins or lemons, Tibi or Ginger Ale are obtained. U.N- ter Busa is a drink that is obtained by fermenting rice and sugar. So far, little is known about the use of fermentation products in cosmetics. Fermented whey is known to improve the external appearance of the skin [F -Bl 2718752, World Trust Investment]. The use of kefir for skin treatment and as an agent against eczema, mycoses and acne is known from EP-A2 0315541 (L'Oreal). ES-Bl 2116201 (Javier Uruena Mendez) further suggests using kefir for the regeneration of capillary vessels.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide new active ingredients which meet the complex requirement profile described above. With regard to the BSE discussion, there was also a desire that this “multifunctional active ingredient” be a herbal product.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active ingredients which can be obtained by fermenting plant components, such as roots, tubers, leaves, fruits and / or plant extracts.

Surprisingly, it was found that the fermentation products have a large number of advantageous properties which are important for use in cosmetics for protecting and caring for the skin and hair. The active ingredients protect against the damaging effects of UV rays and have an anti-inflammatory effect, for example when sunburned. They stimulate metabolism in a variety of ways, for example they stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules and at the same time inhibit their breakdown. They improve skin hydration and skin feel.

The invention further relates to a process for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active substances, in which plant constituents and / or plant extracts are fermented. In doing so

(a) the plant constituents and / or plant extracts are crushed and / or pressed and / or extracted and processed into a fermentation broth,

(b) optionally pasteurized or sterilized the fermentation broth,

(c) the fermentation broth thus prepared inoculates with the microorganisms, (d) fermenting the fermentation broth thus inoculated, and optionally

(e) after the end of the fermentation, the fermentation broth is worked up and the active compounds are separated off.

The vegetable constituents to be processed into a fermentation broth are selected from the group of seeds, tubers, roots, leaves, fruits, vegetable protein concentrates, isolates and / or hydrolyzates. Fruits and seeds are preferably used as plant components.

Plant components and / or plant extracts

Tubers, roots, leaves and preferably seeds and / or fruits are used in comminuted and / or pressed and / or extracted form, selected from the group of plants and / or plant components of potatoes, rice, soybeans, wheat, barley, oats, Rye, buckwheat, beans, peas, linseed, cotton, sesame, lupine, rapeseed, hemp, coconut palm, sunflower, alfalfa, hibiscus, maca, quinoa, almond, moringa, silk, baobao, cassia, irvinga, thistle and oil palm; or selected from the group of fruits of apples, pears, fifths, medlar, rose hips, cherries, plums, peaches, apricots, pomegranates, berries, grapes, lemons, pineapples, cherimoya, guavas, mango, carambola, litchi, kiwi, banana, Coconut, almonds, papaya, avocado, tamarind, baobao, spiked apple, Netzanone, Mamay apple, Atemoya, Ilama, Sancoya, Granadillo, Sapodilla, Rambutan, Mangostane, Durian, Karambola, Bibasse (wool grape), Pricky Pear cactus, Pitahaya, Langsat , Jackfruit, chemdak, virgin date plum, sharon fruit (persimmon).

microorganisms

With regard to an optimized yield of active ingredients, it has proven advantageous to carry out the fermentation in the presence of a mixture of different microorganisms. It is particularly preferred if mixtures of different microorganisms are used which on the one hand contain at least one member from the group Lactobacillus, Lactococcus and Leuconostoc and on the other hand contain at least one yeast. Typical examples of suitable microorganisms are the following: Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus brevis, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus caucasicus, Lactobacillus cellobiosus, Lactobacillus delbruecki, Lactobacillus helveticus, Lactobacillact hilobacillii, Lactobacillus hilobardus bacillus kefiranofaciens, Lactobacillus kefirgranum, Lactobacillus parakefir, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris, Lactococcus lactis subsp. diacetilactis, Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis, Lactococcus plantarum, Leuconostoc citreum, Leuconostoc citroveurum, Leuconostoc dextranicum, Leuconostoc kefir, Leuconostoc mesenteroides, Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides, Candida kefir, Candida tenuis, Kluyveromyces bulgaricus, Sacuycharomyces, Sacuycharomyces, Kluyveromyces bulgaricus, lactuycharis , Saccharomyces delbrueckii, Saccharomyces florentinus, Saccharomyces globosus, Saccharomyces kefir, Saccharomyces marxianus, Saccharomyces, unisporus, Torula homii, Torula kefir, Streptococcus thermophilus, Streptococcus durans, Acetobacter aceti and their Acetobacter rasi and their Acetobacter. Both the bacteria and the yeast can be used in different weight ratios, especially since they change during fermentation. The oculate of the lactic acid bacteria is between 10 ² and 10 ⁸ cfu / ml, preferably between 10 ³ and 10 ⁶ cfu / ml. The ratio of different lactic acid bacteria Lactobacillus, Lactococcus and Leuconostoc to each other can be 1: 1000 to 1000: 1, preferably 1: 100 to 100: 1. Yeast ocules contain between 10 ² and 10 ⁷ cfu / ml, preferably between 10 ³ and 10 ⁵ cfu / ml. The ratio of lactic acid bacteria to yeast is 1: 100000 to 100000: 1, preferably 1: 1000 to 1000: 1. The microorganisms can be used purely, but it is also possible to use kefir or tibi mixtures which are commercially available as such.

fermentation

The fermentation can be divided into five phases:

1. Preparation of the fermentation broth / extraction,

2. optionally pasteurization or sterilization,

3. Inoculation,

4. Actual fermentation as well as if necessary

5. Refurbishment of the products.

Preparation of the fermentation broth / extraction

To produce the fermentation broth, the plant starting materials, such as, for example, comminuted plant parts, plant extracts, comminuted and / or extracted Seeds, tubers, roots or leaves, protein concentrates, hydrolysates or isolates, chopped and / or extracted fruits are ground directly according to their hardness or first broken up and then further processed into an aqueous, organic or aqueous / organic dispersion. The extracts can be prepared in a manner known per se, ie for example by aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic extraction of the plants or parts of plants. Regarding the suitable conventional extraction methods such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, movement maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid-liquid extraction under continuous reflux which is carried out in a Soxhlet extractor, which is familiar to a person skilled in the art and in principle all can be used, for the sake of simplicity, for example, in Hager's Handbook of Pharmaceutical Practice, (5th edition, vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New-York 1991). The percolation method is advantageous for large-scale use.

Fresh plants or parts of plants can be used as the starting material, but usually dried plants and / or parts of plants are used, which can be mechanically comminuted before extraction. All comminution methods known to the person skilled in the art are suitable here, freeze grinding being mentioned as an example. Organic solvents, water or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low molecular weight alcohols with more or less high water contents, can be used as solvents for carrying out the extractions. Extraction with methanol, ethanol, pentane, hexane, heptane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols and ethyl acetate as well as mixtures thereof and their aqueous mixtures is particularly preferred. The extraction is usually carried out at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably at 30 to 60 ° C. The extraction times are set by the person skilled in the art depending on the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc. After the extraction, the crude extracts obtained can optionally be subjected to further customary steps, such as purification, concentration and / or decolorization. Before inoculation with microorganisms, the organic solvents are removed completely or almost completely, for example by distillation or evaporation. If desired, the extracts produced in this way can, for example, be subjected to a selective separation of individual undesirable ingredients. The extraction can take place to any degree of extraction, but is usually carried out to exhaustion. Typical yields (= dry matter amount of the extract based on the amount of raw material used) in the extraction of the seeds are in the range from 3 to 30, in particular 6 to 25% by weight. The present invention encompasses the knowledge that the extraction conditions and the yields of the final extracts can be selected by the person skilled in the art depending on the desired field of use. These extracts generally have a solids content in the range from 0.5 to 10% by weight. Suitable organic solvents in this connection are, for example, the aliphatic alcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms (for example ethanol), ketones (for example acetone), lower esters or polyols (for example glycerol or glycols).

The fermentation broth is preferably prepared by extraction of the vegetable material, if appropriate also repeatedly, with water in the weakly alkaline range, insoluble solids possibly being separated off, for example by filtration or centrifugation. In a further advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extraction likewise takes place in an aqueous medium, but in an acidic range, the proteins precipitating, being separated and redissolved with water in the weakly alkaline range.

In a further embodiment, the plant material is merely comminuted, ground and dispersed in water or an alkaline aqueous medium and fermented directly without further extraction or separation.

In a further embodiment of the invention, the fermentation broth is produced from vegetable protein isolates or concentrates, which are commercially available and are dispersed in water or an alkaline aqueous medium.

If fruits serve as raw materials, they can either be ground or pressed so that the pulp or juice can be used without further extraction.

To produce the fermentation broth, other typical additives can be added to these starting materials, such as soy peptone, malt extract or fermentable sugars (eg sucrose or glucose). It has proven to be advantageous to adjust the fermentation broths to a starting pH of 4.5 to 8.5, and to 6.5 to 8 for proteaginous starting materials. Pasteurization or sterilization

Pasteurization or sterilization of the fermentation broths is usually carried out at temperatures in the range from 60 to 135 ° C. over a period of 1 to 30 minutes.

inoculation

As part of the inoculation, the lactic acid bacteria and the yeast can be used in different amounts and weight ratios. The bacteria are typically used in amounts of 10 ² to 10 ⁸ , preferably 10 ³ to 10 ⁶ cfu / ml. The weight ratio of the various lactic acid bacteria to one another, that is to say Lactobacillus, Lactococcus and Leuconostoc, can each be 1: 1,000 to 1,000: 1 and preferably 1: 100 to 100: 1. The yeasts can be used in amounts of 10 ² to 10 ⁷ , preferably 10 ³ to 10 ⁵ cfu / ml. The weight ratio between bacteria and enzymes can finally be 1: 100,000 to 100,000: 1 and preferably 1: 1,000 to 1,000: 1.

fermentation

The fermentation is usually carried out at temperatures in the range from 10 to 47 ° C., preferably from 20 to 37 ° C. in a static or a closed stirred tank. The fermentation time can vary between a few hours and a few days and is usually between 12 and 48 hours. In the course of fermentation, the fermentable sugars are converted into organic acids, ethanol, carbon dioxide and aromatics. As a result, a drop in the pH value can be observed, which usually levels off at 4 to 5. Furthermore, the proteins contained are proteolysed to form short-chain peptides and amino acids, which are precipitated as a result of the acidic pH.

Downstream Processing

The fermentation products, which are obtained either as soluble fractions as solid residues, are the crude fermentation broth, the crude soluble fractions obtainable therefrom, the low molecular weight metabolites (amino acids, Oligopeptides, oligosaccharides, organic acids, aromatics etc.), the solid residues of the precipitated fermented proteins and the fermented polysaccharides in question. These very different products can be obtained using separation processes known per se, such as, for example, centrifugation, membrane filtration (microfiltration, ultrafiltration, nanofiltration), liquid-liquid or solid-phase extraction, chromatography, precipitation from solvents and the like. The microorganisms still contained in the fermentation products must, of course, be separated, destroyed or inactivated before being made up as end products. Known techniques such as thermal treatment (pasteurization, sterilization), cell destruction, microfiltration, centrifugation and the like can be considered. If fermented proteins are obtained as end products, they can either be used as solid precipitates or used as solutions by lowering the pH.

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations

The invention further relates to cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations which contain the new active ingredients preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 5, in particular 0.1 to 2 and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the composition - contain. If necessary, the fermentation products can be enclosed in micro- or nanocapsules prior to incorporation into cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical agents using the usual methods.

The preparations according to the invention, such as, for example, hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat compositions, stick preparations, powders or can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, Oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency enhancers, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, self-repellant inhibitors (Depigmenting agent), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like. surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of which in the compositions is usually about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, finsulfonate alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfonic fofettsäuren, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, Glycerol ether, Fettsäureethersulfa- te, Hydroxymischethersulfate, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as acyl lactylates, acyl sulfate acetic acid, acyl glolate glucosate, acyl glolate glycate, acyl glolate glucosate fate (especially vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or alkyl glucoramide acid, vegetable glucoramide acid derivatives, glucoronic acid protein derivatives, and glucoronic acid protein derivatives based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are Fettalkoholpolyglycol- ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates , the latter preferably based on wheat proteins. oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -Cι come as oil bodies, for example ₃ - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myrist lbehenat, rucat Myristyle-, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl, stearyl, Stearylisostearat, stearyl, stearyl, Stearylerucat, Isostearγlmyristat, Isostearylpa imitation Isostearylstearat, I sostearylisostearat, Isostearγloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostear loleat, oleyl, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate ristat, oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl, Behenylmy-, Behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, Be henyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenylerucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₈ -C ₃₈ alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, especially dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -Cι ₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -Cι ₈ - Fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₂ -dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carb onates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched Cs-C ₂₂ alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons such as squalane, Squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes. emulsifiers

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

> Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;

> Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

> Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

> Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) (e.g. cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;

> Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

> Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

> Wool wax alcohols;

> Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

> Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;

> Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1 / TR-2) from Goodrich;

> Polyalkylene glycols as well

> Glycerine carbonate. > Ethylene oxide addition products

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and Substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. C _{12 18} - fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

> Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

> Partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinsäurediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, linolenic acid diglyceride, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, Äpfelsäuremo- noglycerid, Apfelsäurediglycerid and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable. > Sorbitan esters

As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan come diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, Sorbita nmonooleat monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, sorbitan tandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimalate and technical sorbitan trimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

> Polyglycerol esters

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearates (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dihydrogen - sostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Creophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

> Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid. > Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C i8-alkyl or acyl group, contain at least contain a free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group _{8 /} and are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are the N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, the cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the C _{2 /} i ₈ ~ acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products, which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, waxes include natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, espresso wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, Sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as, for example, montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol stearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency agents and thickeners

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydro- xypropyl cellulose, also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (eg Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Coloid ), Polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Bentonites such as Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven to be particularly effective. Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyloligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.

superfatting

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available from Amerchol under the name Polymer JR 400®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylic amides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® ( BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and cartiethydroxyaminodiamine (sandethylaraminohydroxy) ), Copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, and their cross-linked water-soluble Polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as, for example, dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as, for example, bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as, for example, Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and polyesters and their esters, uncrosslinked , Acrylamido-propyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / teraminate / vinyl acrylate methacrylate / vinyl methacrylate methacrylate / methacrylate vinyl amide / dimethylamino-cellulose methacrylate and / or methyl-acrylate-methyl-acrylate-methacrylate-methyl-methacrylate-methyl-acrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methyl-acrylate-methacrylate and / or methyl-acrylate-methyl-acrylate-methyl-acrylate-methyl-acrylate-and-methyl-acrylate-methyl-methacrylate-methyl-acrylate-and-methyl-methacrylate and silicones in question.

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified silicone compounds which are both liquid and resinous at room temperature can. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

> 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; > 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

> Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2 ~ cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);

> Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4 ^Λ -methylbenzophenone, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

> Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;

> Triazine derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo ~ 2 ^, -ethyl-f-hexyloxy) -l, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);

> Propane-l, 3-diones, such as l- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4 ^λ methoxyphenyl) propan-l, 3-dione;

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methane such as l- (4 ^λ -tert.Butylphenyl) -3- ^{(4-methoxyphenyl)} propan-l, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl -4 ^, - methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4-isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 4-tert-butyl-4 ^, methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethyl-hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations with water-soluble filters such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5- are advantageous sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts combined.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. The pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, e.g. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples of this are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. Anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiou-racil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters ) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, pentathion, hexa-, hexa-, heptoximine low compatible doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), Tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydro acid , Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophe- non, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbene and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide , trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) thereof Active substances.

Biogenic agents

Examples of biogenic active ingredients are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, essentielle ceramides, Plant extracts, such as To understand prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

> Germ inhibitors

In principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria are suitable as germ-inhibiting agents, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4' -Trichlor-2 '-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (Triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (l-methylethyl) phenol, 2- Benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -l, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4 'trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol , Clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid-N-alkylamides such as, for example, salicylic acid-n-octylamide or decylamide acid ,

> Enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, Adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester and zinc glycinate.

> Odor absorber

Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from Flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the joonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols are anethole, Citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbaneum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydro myrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citric oil, mandarin allyl oil, mandarin amine oil, orlamine oil, orlamine oil, orlamine oil, orlamine oil, orlamine oil, oramine oil, are preferred , Lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, alone or in mixtures, used.

antiperspirants

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

> astringent active ingredients,

> Oil components,

> nonionic emulsifiers, > Co-emulsifiers,

> Consistency generator,

> Auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or

> non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with propylene glycol-1,2. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, conventional oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:

> anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,

> synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or

> Oil-soluble perfume oils.

Common water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agents, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentγl) -2- (lH) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), ketocona zol®, (4-acetyl-l - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (lH-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) -l, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulphide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyehtylenglykolsorbitanmonooleat, Schwefelrizinolpolyehtoxylat, Schwfel tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, and Aluminiumpyrithion Magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases.

Insect repellents

Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butyl acetylaminopropionate

Self-tanners and depigmenting agents

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.

hydrotropes

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

> Glycerin;

> Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

> technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

> Methyl compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

> Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside; > Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

> Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

> Aminosugars such as glucamine;

> Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-l, 3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme) ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexyl benzylatepylpropylate, stylate propionate, stylate propionate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, and the ketones include, for example, the jonones, α-isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone , the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly Mako components are used as perfume oils, such as sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, lavender oil, orange glycolate, almond glycol, alanol glycol, alanol oil, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanecalcolate, orange oil, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanecalcolate, orange oil, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanecalcolate, orange oil, alanecalcolate, orange oil, aldolate, lamellar oil, orange oil, orange oil, orange oil, aldolate, lemon oil, orange oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, alanecalcone oil, orange oil, alanecalcone oil Sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures.

Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, cumin oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, winter green oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

dyes

The dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are culinary red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigotine (CI73015), chlorophyllin (C.L75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder varnish ( C.L58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Industrial applicability

The new active ingredients have a variety of properties that make them interesting for the protection and care of skin and hair. Another object of the invention therefore relates to their for the production of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations. Further advantageous embodiments of the invention relate to the use of the active ingredients

> to stimulate the growth and survival of fibroblasts;

> to stimulate the GHS concentration in the cells;

> as anti-inflammatory agents;

> to protect skin and hair against UV-A radiation and UV-B radiation;

> to protect DNA from damage caused by UV radiation;

> for immune stimulation of the metabolism;

> to fight wrinkles and to revitalize and rejuvenate the skin;

> to strengthen the immune system of skin and hair follicles against environmental toxins and oxidative stress;

> to stimulate hair growth;

> to stimulate the fibroblasts to form dermal macromolecules, especially collagen;

> to fight acne vulgaris;

> as moisture regulators in the skin;

> for skin cleaning;

> to inhibit collagenases and elastases;

> as regulators for melanogenesis in skin and hair as well

> as a degumming agent.

Examples

Example 1. 500 g of pea seed was ground, dispersed in a 10-fold amount of water and the pH was adjusted to 4.7 by adding sulfuric acid. The suspension was then stirred at 52 ° C. for 2 h, cooled and the undissolved constituents were separated off by centrifugation. 0.36 kg of the acidic residue (Pea Acid Precipitate) was again suspended in 750 ml of water, stirred for 45 min and the pH was gradually increased to 7.5 by adding sodium hydroxide solution. Then the undissolved portions were separated again. The soluble extract (0.8 kg) was transferred to a fermentation tank where it was incubated at 90 ° C for 20 min. The preparation was then cooled to 20 ° C. and 0.2% w / v of the commercially available culture C1 from Wiesby, which contained the following microorganisms: Lactococcus lactis, Lactococcus cremoris, Lactococcus deacetylactis, Leuconostoc, Lactobacillus kefyr, Candida kefyr, Saccharomyces kefyr. The fermentation was carried out in a closed tank at 22 ° C. with a stirring speed of 100 rpm. After a fermentation time of 27.5 h, the pH had dropped to 4.5. The fermentation broth was centrifuged, the supernatant solution incubated for 20 min at 90 ° C., cooled, concentrated under reduced pressure and then freeze-dried. The yield was 7% by weight based on the starting materials (g / g dry weight of the Pea Acid Precipitate). The end product had a nitrogen content of 5% by weight.

Example 2. Example 1 was repeated, but the fermentation was carried out with 800 g of pea extract, 0.8 yeast extract and 4 g of sodium chloride. After freeze-drying, the yield of fermentation products was 9% by weight, based on the starting materials (g / g dry weight of the Pea Acid Precipitate). The end product had a nitrogen content of 4% by weight.

Example 3. Example 2 was repeated. After centrifugation of the fermentation broth, the fermented protein fraction was separated and resuspended in 5 times the volume of water. The suspension was stirred for 30 min and the pH was gradually adjusted to 7.6 by adding sodium hydroxide solution. The suspension was then incubated at 90 ° C. for 20 min and freeze-dried. The fermentation product was obtained in a yield of 8% by weight based on the starting materials (g / g dry weight of the Pea Acid Precipitate) and had a nitrogen content of 12% by weight. Example 4. 5.4 kg of ground seeds of Hibiscus esculentus were dispersed in 30 kg of water at 50 ° C. and 0.61 kg of NaOH cookies were added. The suspension was stirred at 50 ° C. for 4 h, cooled and centrifuged. 23.4 kg of supernatant solution were obtained, which was adjusted to pH 7.8 by adding sulfuric acid and then spray-dried. This resulted in 900 g of hibiscus extract. 16 g of this solid powder, together with 0.8 g of yeast extract and 4 g of sodium chloride, were transferred to a fermenter, and 800 ml of water (pH = 7.8) were added, in which they were incubated at 121 ° C. for 15 min. The fermentation broth was cooled to 22 ° C and then 0.1% w / v of the culture Kefir Cl was added. The extract was fermented for 2 d in a closed tank at 22 ° C. at a stirring speed of 100 rpm (pH = 4.9), then incubated at 80 ° C. for 20 min and centrifuged. The supernatant solution was then concentrated under reduced pressure and freeze-dried. The fermentation product was obtained in a yield of 60% by weight, based on the dry matter of the fermentation broth. The resulting product had a nitrogen content of 3.5% by weight.

Example 5. Fruits of the Bactris palm were broken up in the presence of water, giving a suspension with a solids content of 10% by weight. This was incubated at 110 ° C. for 30 min, cooled to 30 ° C. and mixed with the commercially available Kefir Fruit fermentation from Yalacta, which contained the following microorganisms: Lactococcus lactis, Lactococcus cremorius, Lactococcus dieacetylactis, Leuconostoc, Lactobacillus cauccususlactus, Lactobacillus caucasicus , lactis and Saccharomyces florentinus. For this purpose, 4 g of the ferment were suspended in 20 ml of a sterile 0.9% by weight saline solution and 2% w / v of this solution was added to the palm fruit fermentation broth. The broth was fermented at 30 ° C. and a stirring speed of 150 rpm in a closed tank. After 24 h the pH had dropped to 5.0. The fermentation broth was incubated at 90 ° C. for 30 minutes, cooled, filtered through a nylon sieve with a mesh size of 500 μm, washed with 150 ml of water and then centrifuged. The residue was washed again with 200 g of water and the suspension was centrifuged. The supernatant solutions were combined, concentrated under reduced pressure and finally freeze-dried. The fermentation product was obtained in a yield of 45% by weight based on the dry weight of the fermentation broth.

Example 6. Example 5 was repeated. The fermentation broth was produced with an initial content of 5% w / g dry weight of the fruits of the Bactris palm and 1.25% by weight glucose and 0.04% by weight malt extract. The fermentation product was obtained in a yield of 45% by weight based on the dry weight of the fermentation broth. Example 7. 1 kg of maca root powder (Amazonian Natural Product, Peru) was dispersed in distilled water so that there was a 10% by weight dispersion. The pH was adjusted to pH 7-7.2 with a 4 N sodium hydroxide solution. The suspension was stirred at room temperature (22 ° C ± 2 ° C) for one hour and then incubated with 0.1% (w: v) of a commercial kefir culture (Kefir Cl from Wiesby). The maca broth was fermented at room temperature between 20 and 25 ° C and a stirring speed of 100 rpm. After 1.5 days (pH 4), the broth was heated to 70-80 ° C. for 15 minutes and then centrifuged and filtered to remove insoluble constituents. The solution thus obtained was freeze-dried. A fermentation product was obtained with a yield of 28% by weight, based on the dry weight of the Maca powder, which had a nitrogen content of 2.6% by weight.

Example 8. 5 g of quinoa seeds were crushed and dispersed to a 10% by weight dispersion in distilled water. The pH of the dispersion was adjusted to pH 7-7.2 using a 4 N sodium hydroxide solution. The suspension was stirred at room temperature (22 ° C. + 2 ° C.) for one hour and then incubated with 1% (w: v) of a commercial kefir culture (Kefir Cl from Wiesby). This quinoa broth was fermented at room temperature (22 ° C ± 2 ° C) and a stirring speed of 110 rpm (preculture). After 24 hours (pH 4.2), this fermentation broth (preculture) was used to incubate 5 kg of suspension from 500 g of crushed quinoa seeds as previously prepared. The quinoa broth was fermented at room temperature (22 ° C ± 2 ° C) and a stirring speed of 300 rpm. After 28 hours (pH 4.3), the broth was heated to 70-80 ° C. for 15 minutes and then centrifuged and filtered in order to remove insoluble constituents. The solution thus obtained was freeze-dried. A fermentation product was obtained with a yield of 11% by weight, based on the dry weight of the quinoa powder, which had a nitrogen content of 6.9% by weight.

Regenerative and growth stimulating effect

After an incubation of 72 h in a nutrient solution, fibroblasts form saturated monolayers, the fibroblasts cease their activity and growth stops. The cell fuel adenosine triphosphate (ATP), which is mainly produced in the mitochondria, is required to activate certain enzymes that control, for example, the cell skeleton, the ion channels, the absorption of nutrients and a whole range of other important biological processes. The protein content in the cells was determined by the Bradford method [cf. Anal. Biochem. 72, 248-254 (1977)]. Glutathione (GSH) is a special protein that is produced by the cells to protect against oxidative stress and environmental toxins, especially against heavy metals. The three amino acids involved in the reduced form of the GSH are linked to special cytoplasmic enzymes that require ATP for activation. An increase in GSH concentration leads to an increase in glutathione S-transferase activity, a detoxification enzyme. The GHS content was determined using the Hissin method [cf. Anal. Biochem. 74, 214-226 (1977)]. The growth-stimulating effects of the test substances were investigated on human fibroblasts. For this purpose, in a first test series, the fibroblasts were incubated in a nutrient medium for 1 day at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO ₂ , the nutrient medium was exchanged for a medium which contained the test substances, and again incubated for 3 days at 37 ° C. The protein content in the cells and the ATP concentration were then determined. To determine the survival-stimulating effect, the fibroblasts were first incubated in a nutrient solution at 37 ° C. for 3 days and then in a test solution at the same temperature for 3 days. The protein content in the cells and the GSH concentration were then determined. The number of living cells was measured in some experiments by measuring the content of cellular ATP and cellular DNA. The results are summarized in Table 1. The results of 3 series of measurements with triple determination in% -rel compared to a blank sample are given.

The examples show that the test substances stimulate the metabolism with regard to the growth and protection of the fibroblasts. Table 1

Growth and survival stimulating effect (in% rel.)

Anti-inflammatory effect

In the course of a cutaneous inflammation, leucocytes, such as the polymorphonuclear neutrophil granulocytes (PMN), are stimulated by peptides such as cytokines to send out messenger substances such as leukotriene, which are released in the dermis by activated or necrotic cells. These activated PMN release not only pro-inflammatory cytokines, leukotrienes and proteases, but also ROS, such as superoxides and hypochlorite anions, which have the task of destroying invaded pathogenic germs or fungi. This activity of the PMN during inflammation is known as a so-called respiratory burst and can lead to additional damage to the tissue. To investigate to what extent the test substances can prevent or reduce the outbreak of breath, a cell line of human leukemic granulocytes of this PMN was put together incubated with the test substances of 5% by volume of CO ₂ at 37 ° C. After triggering the respiratory outbreak by adding a yeast extract (zymosan) to the cell solution, the release of superoxide anions was determined by their reaction with luminol 2. The cell numbers and the amount of released ROS are given in% -rel to the standard as the mean value of a series of measurements with triplicate determination.

The results show that the test substances have a strong inhibitory influence on the respiratory outbreak of human granulocytes without damaging the granulocytes. Table 2

Anti-inflammatory effect (in% rel.)

Cell protection against UV-B rays

The aim of this test was to show that the test substances have anti-inflammatory properties against human keratinocytes. UVB was chosen as a stress factor because the rays cause cutaneous inflammation (erythema, edema) by activating arachidonic acid-releasing enzymes, such as phospholipase A2 (PLA2). As a result, this not only leads to damage to the membranes, but also to the formation of inflammatory substances, such as prostaglandins of the PGE2 type. The influence of UVB rays on the keratinocytes was determined in vitro via the release of cytoplasmic enzymes, such as LDH (lactate dehydrogenase), which runs parallel to cell damage and the formation of PGE2. To carry out the experiment, a fibroblast culture with fetal calf serum was set up and vaccinated with the test substances 2 days later. After an incubation of 36 h at 37 ° C and a CO ₂ level of 5 vol.%, The nutrient medium was replaced by an electrolyte solution and the fibroblasts were damaged with a defined amount of UVB radiation (50 mJ / cm ² ). After trypsination, the amount of keratinocytes was determined using a cell counter, the LDH concentration was determined enzymatically and the PGE2 formed was measured by the Elisa test. The results are summarized in Table 3. The activity is given in% -rel against a standard as the mean of two test series with double determination. Table 3

Effect against UVB rays (in% rel.)

The results show that the test substances significantly reduce the harmful effects of UVB rays and in particular reduce the release of LDH and PGE2.

Cytophotoprotection of human fibroblasts

The cell protection against UV-A radiation was assessed by a test on human fibroblasts, since UV-A radiation penetrates through the epidermis and induces damage by oxidative stress in the area of the dermis (DALLE CARBONARE M, PATHAK MA; Skin photosensitizing agents and the role of reactive oxygen species in photoaging; JOURNAL OF PHOTOCHEMISTRY & PHOTOBIOLOGY, 1992, 14, 1-2, 105-124. (P10482) The extent of oxidative stress was determined in vitro by determining the content of released malondialaldehyde and intracellular GSH (reduced glutathione) found (Moriiere P., Moisan A., Santus R., Huppe G., Maziere JC, Dubertret L .: UV-A induced lipid peroxidation in cultivated human fibroblasts. Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 1084, 3: 261-269 (1991).

Method:

Inoculation of human fibroblasts in nutrient medium (standard medium with fetal calf serum (FCS), incubation was carried out for 3 days at 37 ° C. and 032 = 5%. The nutrient medium was replaced by standard medium without FCS but with active ingredient and again for 3 days at 37 ° C and CO2 = 5%, then the nutrient medium was replaced with isotonic saline and the fibroblasts were exposed to UVA radiation of 20 J / cm2 (black light TFWN lamp). The content of malonic aldehyde was then determined spectrophotometrically (MDA rate).

The number of cells was measured by the Bradford method on the gehlat of cellular proteins. The results in Table 4 are given in% against the control (without exposure to UV light) as the mean of two determinations in triplicate.

Table 4: Cytophotoprotection before UV-A radiation on human fibroblasts

The results show that the fermentation products investigated lead to a significant reduction in the damage caused by UV-A radiation. Therefore, the cementation products are advantageous for improving the resistance of the skin and hair follicles to oxidative stress, which is exerted by UV radiation, but also by environmental toxins. They protect the skin and hair follicles against aging.

Inhibition of elastase

Elastase is a protease that is excreted by leukocytes during an inflammatory process or by fibroblasts after exposure to UV radiation or through aging. It is an enzyme that catalyzes the destruction of essential dermal proteins such as proteoglycans, elastin or collagen fibers and in this way induces intrinsic aging as well as photo-aging of human skin. (ROBERT L, LABAT ROBERT J: Vieillissement et tissu conjonctif. Annee Gerontologique, 23-37, 1992).

Method:

Test method according to (BIETH J: Elastase: Structure, Function and Pathological Role. Front Matrix Biol., 6: 1-82, Karger Basel, 1978).

The test was carried out with elastase from pancreas stained with Congo red. The incubation time at room temperature was 30 minutes and the optical density of the Congo red released was determined after centrifugation at a wavelength of 520 nm. The results from Table 5 are expressed in% of the inhibition against a control (= 0%).

Table 5: Elastase inhibition in tubo

The fermentation product investigated had a good inhibition of the release of elastase and can therefore be used successfully against skin aging and damage caused by UV radiation.

Modulation of melanogenesis

The influence on melanogenesis was determined by means of a test with an in vitro culture of B16 melanocytes.

Method:

Melanocytes (B16 cell line) were incubated in standard growth medium with fetal calf serum (FCS) for 3 days at 37 ° C and CO2 = 5%. The growth medium was exchanged for standard medium with different concentrations of fermentation product. After a further incubation over 3 days, the number of living cells was determined by determining cellular proteins using the Bradford method and the content of melanin synthesized was measured by measuring the optical density at 475 nm in the cell homogenate.

The results in Table 6 are expressed in% against a control (cell culture without fermentation product).

The fermented product investigated showed a high potential for modulating melanin synthesis in in vitro cultures of melanocytes.

immune stimulation

Immune stimulation is understood to mean biochemical processes in which messenger substances, such as beta glucans, stimulate the body's defenses, for example to bind and excrete toxic substances and to accelerate the renewal of skin cells. It is known that organisms lose this ability with age. The immune stimulation can be observed in vitro using human leukocytes which have been activated beforehand with a yeast extract (zymosan) [cf. Capsoni et al. Int.J.Immunopharm. 10 (2), 121-133 (1998)]. A culture of polymorphonuclear neutrophil granulocytes (PMN) was incubated together with the test substances over a period of 24 hours at 37 ° C. and 5% by volume CO ₂ . The respiratory outbreak was triggered by the addition of Zymosan. After 30 min, the PMN number was determined spectroscopically by an automatic cell counter and the amount of reactive oxygen species (ROS) released in the supernatant liquid using luminol. The results are summarized in Table 4 and are understood as% -rel compared to the standard. The average of two series of measurements with triple determination is given.

Table 4

Immune stimulation (in% rel.)

The results show that the test substances stimulate the immune system and sustainably strengthen the body's defenses, especially of the skin cells.

Ex vivo determination of the moisturizing effect

The dry stratum corneum is a dielectric medium with poor conductivity. If moisture is added to it, the conductivity increases due to the bipolar nature of the water molecules. Conductometry is therefore a suitable method for determining the state of hydration of the stratum corneum. If the conductivity is improved by adding test substances, it can be concluded that these have a moisturizing effect. For the investigation, an in vitro skin model was used, which had previously been produced according to the instructions of Obata and Tagami in J. Soc.Cosmet.Chem., 41, 235-242 (1990). The preparations were equilibrated in chambers of defined air humidity and then tested under three or four different conditions:

> Control attempt without treatment

> Blind trial with placebo treatment

> Test according to the invention with test substance

> Comparison test with standard preparation

The conductivity measurements were carried out before the treatment and then over a period of 0.5 to 24 after the treatment. The results are summarized in Table 5.

Table 5: Hydration measurements

Table 5: Hydration measurements (cont.)

The examples show that the addition of the test substances significantly improves the state of hydration of the stratum corneum in comparison with known moisturizers. When using a cream with 1.5% by weight of the extract according to Example 4, an improvement in hydration of more than 160% was found after just 30 minutes, while a comparison cream with an equal weight of glycerol only showed an improvement of around 75%. rendered.

In-vivo measurement of the moisturizing effect

Analogous to the ex-vivo determination, the state of hydration of the skin can also be determined in-vivo using conductometry as part of a non-invasive measurement. For this purpose, the conductivity is first determined on an area of 4 cm ^{2 on} the inside of the forearm without treatment with the test substance (TO value). 4 μl / cm ^{2 of} test substance are then applied, dried for 15 minutes and the conductivity is then determined again (T15 value). As a control, the conductivity of a neighboring skin area is also measured, which had not been treated with the test substance. The results are expressed as a percentage ratio T15 / T0 and are summarized in Table 6.

Table 6: Hydration measurements [% -rel.]

The results show that the test substances significantly improve the state of hydration of the skin. Improve skin roughness

The influence that test substances exert on the roughness or softness of the skin can be determined in vivo with the help of fructiometry. The principle of this measurement is based on the fact that a rotating body exerts constant pressure on the skin surface. The force required for this is measured via which the friction coefficient can be determined. The force to be applied is directly dependent on the roughness of the skin. It follows that the higher the hydration state of the skin, ie the softness, the greater the coefficient. For this purpose, the friction is first determined on an area of 9 cm ^{2 on} the inside of the forearm without treatment with the test substance (T0 value). Then 4 μl / cm ^{2 of} test substance are applied, dried for 15 minutes and then the friction is determined again (T15 value). As a control, the conductivity of a neighboring skin area is also measured, which had not been treated with the test substance. The results are expressed as a percentage ratio T15 / T0 and are summarized in Table 7.

Table 7: Friction measurements [% -rel.]

The results show that the test substances significantly improve the roughness of the skin and make it significantly softer.

A number of formulation examples are given in Table 8 below.

Table 8

Examples of cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)

(1, 6) soft cream, (2, 3, 7, 8) moisturizing emulsion, (4, 5, 9, 10) night cream

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active ingredients, obtainable by fermenting plant components and / or plant extracts.

2. Process for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active ingredients, in which one fermentes plant components and / or plant extracts.

3. The method according to claim 2, characterized in that one

(a) comminuted plant components and / or plant extracts and / or pressed and / or extracted and processed into a fermentation broth,

(b) optionally pasteurized or sterilized the fermentation broth,

(c) the fermentation broth thus prepared inoculates with the microorganisms,

(d) fermenting the fermentation broth thus inoculated, and optionally

(e) after the end of the fermentation, the fermentation broth is worked up and the active ingredients are separated off.

4. The method according to claims 2 and / or 3, characterized in that fermenting plant components and / or plant extracts which are selected from the group of plants which is formed by potatoes, rice, soybeans, wheat, barley, oats, Rye, buckwheat, beans, peas, linseed, cotton, sesame, lupine, rapeseed, hemp, coconut palm, sunflower, alfalfa, hibiscus, maca, quinoa, almond, moringa, silk, baobao, cassia, irvinga, thistle and oil palm.

5. The method according to at least one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that plant constituents selected as plant constituents from the group of seeds, tubers, roots, leaves, fruits in comminuted and / or squeezed and / or extracted form, and protein concentrates , - uses hydrolysates or isolates.

6. The method according to at least one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that one carries out an extraction in the weakly alkaline range.

7. The method according to at least one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that the fermentation broth is adjusted to a pH in the range from 4.5 to 8.5.

8. The method according to at least one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that one carries out the pasteurization or sterilization at a temperature in the range of 60 to 135 ° C.

9. The method according to at least one of claims 2 to 8, characterized in that one carries out the pasteurization or sterilization over a period of 1 to 30 min.

10. The method according to at least one of claims 2 to 9, characterized in that one carries out the fermentation in the presence of a mixture of different microorganisms.

11. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that mixtures of different microorganisms are used which contain at least one member from the group Lactobacillus, Lactococcus and Leuconostoc.

12. The method according to claims 9 and / or 11, characterized in that mixtures of different microorganisms are used which contain at least one yeast.

13. The method according to at least one of claims 9 to 12, characterized in that microorganisms are used which are selected from the group formed by Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus brevis, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus caucasicus, Lactobacillus cellobiosus, Lactobacillus Lactobacillus, Lactobacillus helveticus, Lactobacillus hilgardii, Lactobacillus kefir, Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens, Lactobacilluskefirgranum, Lactobacillus parakefir, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris, Lactococcus lactis subsp. diacetilactis, Lactococcus lactis subsp.lactis, Lactococcus plantarum, Leuconostoc citreum, Leuconostoc citroverum, Leuconostoc dextranicum, Leuconostoc kefir, Leuconostoc mesenteroides, Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides, Candida kefiricveromyces, Candida kefiromyces, Candida kefiraliomyces Sacharomyces cerevisiae, Saccharomyces delbrueckii, Saccharomyces florentinus, Saccharomyces globosus, Saccharomyces kefir, Saccharomyces marxianus, Saccharomyces, unisporus, Torula homii, Torula kefir, Streptococcus thermophilus, Streptococcus durans, Acetobacter aceti and Acetobacter rasens and mixtures thereof.

14. The method according to at least one of claims 9 to 13, characterized in that the lactic acid bacteria are used in amounts of 10 ² to 10 ⁸ cfu / ml.

15. The method according to at least one of claims 9 to 14, characterized in that the yeasts are used in amounts of 10 ² to 10 ⁷ cfu / ml.

16. The method according to at least one of claims 2 to 15, characterized in that one carries out the fermentation at temperatures in the range of 10 to 47 ° C.

17. The method according to at least one of claims 2 to 16, characterized in that one carries out the fermentation over a period of 12 to 48 h.

18. The method according to at least one of claims 2 to 17, characterized in that the active ingredients are separated from the fermentation broth by centrifugation, membrane filtration, liquid-liquid extraction, solid phase extraction, chromatography or precipitation from solvents.

19. The method according to at least one of claims 2 to 18, characterized in that the microorganisms still contained in the fermentation products are destroyed or separated by thermal treatment.

20. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing active ingredients according to claim 1.

21. Preparations according to claim 20, characterized in that they contain the active ingredients in amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% - based on the agent.

22. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations.

23. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for stimulating the growth and survival of fibroblasts.

24. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for stimulating the GHS concentration in the cells.

25. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 as anti-inflammatory agents.

26. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for protecting skin and hair against UV radiation.

27. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for immune stimulation of the metabolism.

28. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for combating wrinkles and for vitalizing and rejuvenating the skin.

29. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for strengthening the defenses of skin and hair follicles against environmental toxins and oxidative stress.

30. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for stimulating the fibroblasts to form dermal macromolecules.

31. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for combating acne vulgaris or seborrhea.

32. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 as moisture regulators in the skin.

33. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for inhibiting collagenases and elastases.

34. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 as regulators for melanogenesis in skin and hair.

35. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 as degumming agents.

36. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for protection against skin aging.

37. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for protection against environmental toxins.

38. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for stimulating hair growth.

39. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic compositions for sensitive skin.

40. Use of active ingredients according to claim 1, characterized in that the active ingredients are used in the form of micro- or nanocapsules.