EP1448153A1

EP1448153A1 - Self-foaming, foamed, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic dermatological preparations

Info

Publication number: EP1448153A1
Application number: EP02779530A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Heidi Riedel; Jens Schulz; Anja Göppel; Andreas Bleckmann
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-11-09
Filing date: 2002-11-06
Publication date: 2004-08-25
Also published as: JP2005507945A; US20040258627A1; DE10155956A1; WO2003039493A1

Abstract

Self-foaming, foamed, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations comprising I) and emulsifier system consisting of A) at least one emulsifier (A) selected from the group of fully, partially or non neutralized, branched and/or unbranched saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids having a chain length of 10-40 carbon atoms, B) at least one emulsifier (B) selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters having a chain length of 10-40 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 5 - 100 and C) at least one co-emulsifier (C) selected from the group of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched fatty alcohols having a chain length of 10 -40 carbon atoms, also comprising II) up to 30 wt. % - in relation to the overall weight of the preparation of a liquid phase which contains a) one or several lipids from the group of silcone oils and silicon waxes and b) one or several lipids from the group of unpolar lipids having a polarity >/= 30 mN/m, the ratio of (a) to (b) ranging from 1:3 - 3:1.

Description

Bßiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

description

Self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations

The present invention relates to self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin-care cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

Foams or foam-like preparations belong to the disperse systems.

By far the most important and best-known disperse system are emulsions. Emulsions are two- or multi-phase systems of two or more liquids which are insoluble or only slightly soluble in one another. The liquids (pure or as solutions) are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally only of limited stability.

Foams are structures made of gas-filled, spherical or polyhedral cells, which are delimited by liquid, semi-liquid, highly viscous or solid cell bridges. The cell bridges, connected via so-called nodes, form a coherent framework. The foam lamellae (closed-cell foam) stretch between the cell bars. If the foam lamellae are destroyed or flow back into the cell webs at the end of foam formation, an open-cell foam is obtained. Foams are also thermodynamically unstable, since surface energy can be obtained by reducing the surface. The stability and therefore the existence of a foam depends on the extent to which it can prevent its self-destruction. Cosmetic foams are generally dispersed systems composed of liquids and gases, the liquid being the dispersant and the gas being the dispersed substance. Foams made from low-viscosity liquids are temporarily stabilized by surface-active substances (surfactants, foam stabilizers). Because of their large inner surface, such surfactant foams have a strong adsorption capacity, which is used, for example, in cleaning and washing processes. Accordingly, cosmetic foams are used in particular in the areas of cleaning, for example as shaving cream, and hair care.

To generate foam, gas is blown into suitable liquids, or foam formation is achieved by vigorous beating, shaking, spraying or stirring the liquid in the gas atmosphere in question, provided that the liquids contain suitable surfactants or other surface-active substances (so-called foaming agents) that besides interfacial activity also possess a certain film-forming ability.

Cosmetic foams have cosmetic over other. Preparations have the advantage that they allow a fine distribution of active ingredients on the skin. However, cosmetic foams can generally only be achieved by using special surfactants, which moreover are often not very kind to the skin.

A disadvantage of the prior art is that such foams are not very stable, which is why they usually collapse within about 24 hours. A requirement of cosmetic preparations, however, is that they have a stability that is as long as possible. This problem is generally taken into account by the fact that the consumer only generates the actual foam when it is used with the aid of a suitable spray system, for which spray cans can be used, for example, in which a liquefied compressed gas serves as the propellant. When the pressure valve is opened, the blowing agent-liquid mixture escapes through a fine nozzle, the blowing agent evaporates and leaves a foam. Post-foaming cosmetic preparations are also known per se. They are first applied to the skin in fluid form from an aerosol container and, after a short delay, develop the actual foam there, for example a shaving foam, under the influence of the post-foaming agent contained. Post-foaming preparations are often in special embodiments such as post-foaming shaving gels or the like.

However, the prior art does not know any cosmetic or dermatological preparations which could be foamed during manufacture and which nevertheless have a sufficiently high stability to be packaged, stored and put on the market in the customary manner.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to enrich the prior art and to provide cosmetic or dermatological self-foaming and / or foam-like preparations which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art.

German Offenlegungsschrift DE 197 54 659 discloses that carbon dioxide is a suitable active ingredient for stabilizing or increasing the epidermal ceramide synthesis rate, which can serve to strengthen the permeability barrier, reduce the trans-epidermal water loss and increase the relative skin moisture. To treat the skin, the CO ₂ is dissolved in water, for example, with which the skin is then rinsed. However, the prior art has hitherto known no cosmetic or dermatological foundations into which a gaseous active ingredient could be incorporated in a sufficient, ie effective, concentration.

Another object of the present invention was therefore to find cosmetic or dermatological bases in which effective amounts of gaseous active ingredients can be incorporated.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations which I. an emulsifier system consisting of

A. at least one emulsifier A, selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,

B. at least one emulsifier B, selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and

C. at least one co-emulsifier C, selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and

II. Up to 30 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the preparation - a lipid phase, which

(a) one or more lipids from the group of silicone oils and silicone waxes and

(b) contains one or more lipids from the group of non-polar lipids with a polarity> 30 mN / m, the ratio of (a) to (b) being selected from the range from 1: 3 to 3: 1, the disadvantages remedy the state of the art.

For the purposes of the present invention, “self-foaming”, “foam-like”, “post-foaming” or “foamable” are understood to mean preparations from which foams - be it already during the manufacturing process, be it in use by the consumer or on others Way - can be produced by introducing one or more gases in principle. In such foams, the gas bubbles are (arbitrarily) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the (foamed) preparations not necessarily having to have the appearance of a foam macroscopically. (Foamed) cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention (hereinafter also referred to simply as foams for the sake of simplicity) can, for. B. macroscopically visible dispersed systems from dispersed in liquids Represent gases. The foam character can, for example, only become visible under a (light) microscope. In addition, foams according to the invention - especially when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - can also be recognized from the large increase in volume of the system.

According to the prior art, self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic emulsions could not be formulated or manufactured technically without the use of special surfactants. This was especially true for systems based on classic emulsifiers. According to the prior art, systems of this type, with the addition of propellant gas, exclusively developed aqueous-moist foams which broke quickly after application.

The invention makes a substantial, compact cream foam accessible for the first time, which is distinguished by a long storage period and by an extraordinarily high stability and a compact appearance.

The preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was particularly surprising that the foams obtainable from the preparations according to the invention are extremely stable - even with an unusually high gas volume. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable to serve as the basis for forms of preparation with a variety of uses. The preparations according to the invention show very good sensory properties, such as, for example, the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be drawn into the skin, and are furthermore distinguished by an above-average skin care.

According to the invention, fine-bubble, rich foams of excellent cosmetic elegance are available. Furthermore, preparations which are particularly well tolerated by the skin are available according to the invention, and valuable ingredients can be distributed particularly well on the skin.

The invention is also the

Use of self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations, which I. an emulsifier system consisting of

(a) one or more lipids from the group of silicone oils and silicone waxes and

(b) contains one or more lipids from the group of non-polar lipids with a polarity> 30 mN / m, the ratio of (a) to (b) being selected from the range from 1: 3 to 3: 1, as cosmetic or dermatological basis for gaseous active substances.

The emulsifier (s) A are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are wholly or partly with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) are neutralized. For example, stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.

The emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG- 40-sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 Glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. For example, polyethoxylated stearic esters are particularly advantageous.

According to the invention, the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group: behenyl alcohol (C ^ H ^ OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C ₁₆ H ₃₃ OH) and stearyl alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃₇ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax - alcohols, which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetyl stearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.

It is advantageous according to the invention to choose the weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) as a: b: c, with a, b and c, independently of one another, preferably having rational numbers from 1 to 5 can represent from 1 to 3. A weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous for the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of coemulsifier C to be in the range from 2 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 13% by weight .-%, each based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly preferred if the gas phase of the preparations contains carbon dioxide or consists entirely of carbon dioxide. It is particularly advantageous if carbon dioxide represents one or the active ingredient in the preparations according to the invention.

It may be advantageous, though not necessary, if the formulations according to the present invention contain further emulsifiers. Those emulsifiers which are suitable for producing W / O emulsions are preferably to be used, these being able to be present both individually and in any combination with one another. For the purposes of the present invention, the further emulsifier or emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of hydrophilic emulsifiers. Mono-, di-, trifatty acid esters of sorbitan are particularly preferred according to the invention.

According to the invention, the total amount of the further emulsifiers is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The list of the other emulsifiers mentioned which can be used in the sense of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention are free from mono- or diglyceryl fatty acid esters. Preparations according to the invention which contain no glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl alcoholate and / or glyceryl laurate are particularly preferred.

Particularly advantageous nonpolar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below:

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil and other hydrogenated polyolefins such as hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane and squalene are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.

Advantageous silicone oils or silicone waxes in the sense of the present invention are cyclic and / or linear silicone oils and silicone waxes.

Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked like chains and / or networks and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes; the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are distinguished by the following structural formula

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Dimethicones of different chain lengths and phenyltrimethicones are particularly advantageous linear silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for. B. are available under the trade names ABIL 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which INCI also refers to as cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.

Cyclomethicones, in particular Cyclomethicone D5 and / or Cyclomethicone D6, are particularly advantageous cyclic silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are represented here generally by the radicals R - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), n can have values from 3/2 to 20. cracked Take into account values for n that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

The silicone oils listed below are also particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention:

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to choose the ratio of nonpolar lipids to silicone oils to be approximately 1: 1.

The content of the lipid phase is advantageously chosen to be less than 30% by weight, preferably between 2.5 and 30% by weight, particularly preferably between 5 and 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. It may also be advantageous, although not essential, if the lipid phase contains up to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the lipid phase, of polar lipids (with a polarity <20 mN / m) and / or medium-polar lipids (with a polarity) from 20 to 30 mN / m) contains.

Particularly advantageous polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are all native lipids, such as, for. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like and listed below.

Particularly advantageous medium-polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below.

Compositions according to the invention can be formulated in such a way that they develop into fine-bubble foams as early as during their production, for example during stirring or during homogenization.

Such self-foaming and / or foam-like cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention are characterized in that they contain 1 to 90% by volume, based on the total volume of the preparation, of at least one gas selected from the group consisting of air, oxygen and nitrogen , Helium, argon, nitrous oxide (N ₂ O) and carbon dioxide (CO ₂ ).

Self-foaming and / or foam-like cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can advantageously contain inorganic particulate hydrophobic and / or hydrophobized and / or oil-absorbing solid substances and / or inorganic gel formers.

Advantageous inorganic particulate hydrophobic and / or hydrophobized and / or oil-absorbing solid substances can for example be selected from the group

• the inorganic fillers (such as talc, kaolin, zeolites, boron nitride), • the inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds that are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water (especially oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, manganese, aluminum, cerium) .

• the inorganic pigments based on silicon oxides (such as in particular the types Aerosil-200, Aerosil 200 V), • the silicate derivatives (such as sodium silicoaluminate or fluoro magnesium silicate (submica types), calcium aluminum borosilicate). In particular, silica dimethyl silylate (Aerosil® R972) is preferred.

Aerosils [(fumed silica) = silicon dioxide obtained by thermal decomposition of ethyl silicate)] are highly disperse silicas with an irregular shape, the specific surface area of which is usually very large (200 - 400 m ² / g) and controlled depending on the manufacturing process can. Aerosils to be used particularly advantageously according to the invention are available, for example, under the trade names: Aerosil® 130 (Degussa Hüls) Aerosil® 200 (Degussa Hüls) Aerosil 255 (Degussa Hüls) Aerosil® 300 (Degussa Hüls) Aerosil® 380 (Degussa Hüls) B-6C (Suzuki Yushi) CAB-O-SIL Fumed Silica (Cabot) CAB-O- SIL EH-5 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL HS-5 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL LM-130 (Cabot) CAB-O -SIL MS-55 (Cabot) CAB-O- SIL M-5 (Cabot) E-6C (Suzuki Yushi) Fossil Flour MBK (MBK) MSS-500 (Kobo) Neosil CT 11 (Crosfield Co.) Ronasphere (Rona / EM Industries) Silica, Anhydrous 31 (Whittaker, Clark & Daniels) Silica, Crystalline 216 (Whittaker, Clark & Daniels) Silotrat-1 (Vevy) Sorbosil AC33 (Crosfield Co.) Sorbosil AC 35 (Crosfield Co.) Sorbosil AC 37 ( Crosfield Co.) Sorbosil AC 39 (Crosfield Co.) Sorbosil AC77 (Crosfield Co.) Sorbosil TC 15 (Crosfield Co.) Spherica (Ikeda) Spheriglass (Potters-Ballotini) Spheron L-1500 (Presperse) Spheron N-2000 (Presperse ) Spheron P-1500 (Presperse) Wacker H DK H 30 (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK N 20 (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK P 100 H (Wacker Silicones) Wacker HDK N 20P (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK N 25P (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK S 13 (Wacker Chemistry) Wacker HDK T 30 (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK V 15 (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK V 15 P (Wacker-Chemie) Zelec Sil (DuPont).

It is also advantageous to use those SiO ₂ pigments in which the free OH groups on the particle surface have been (partially or completely) modified organically. You get z. B. by the addition of dimethylsilyl groups Silica Dimethyl Silylate (e.g. Aerosil® R972 (Degussa Hüls) Aerosil® R974 (Degussa Hüls) CAB-O-SIL TS-610 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL TS -720 (Cabot) Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK H20 (Wacker-Chemie)). The addition of trimethylsily groups gives silica silylates (e.g. Aerosil R 812 (Degussa Hüls) CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot) Sipernat D 17 (Degussa Hüls) Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker-Chemie)) ,

Very advantageous inorganic gel formers can be selected, for example, from the group of modified or unmodified, naturally occurring or synthetic layered silicates. Although it is entirely favorable to use pure components, the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain mixtures of different modified and / or unmodified layered silicates. Layered silicates, which are also called phyllosilicates, are to be understood in the context of this application to be silicates and aluminosilicates in which the silicate or aluminate units are linked to one another via three Si-O or Al-O bonds and a corrugated leaf or layer structure form. The fourth Si-O or Al-O valence is saturated by cations. There are weaker electrostatic interactions between the individual layers, e.g. B. hydrogen bonds. The layer structure, however, is largely characterized by strong, covalent bonds.

The stoichiometry of the leaf silicates is (Si ₂ O ₅ ^{2 "} ) for pure silicate structures and (Al _m Si ² - _m O ₅ ( ^{2 + m} ) -) for aluminosilicates. M is a number greater than zero and less than 2.

If there are no pure silicates, but aluminosilicates, one has to take into account the fact that each Si ⁴⁺ group replaced by Al ³⁺ requires a further simply charged cation for charge neutralization.

The charge balance is preferably balanced by H ⁺ , alkali or alkaline earth metal ions. Aluminum as the counter ion is also known and advantageous; in contrast to the aluminosilicates, these compounds are called aluminum silicates. "Aluminum aluminosilicates", in which aluminum is present both in the silicate network and as a counter ion, are also known and may be advantageous for the present invention.

Layered silicates are well documented in the literature, e.g. B. in the "Textbook of Inorganic Chemistry", A.F. Hollemann, E. Wiberg and N. Wiberg, 91.-100. Ed., Walter de Gruyter - Verlag 1985, passim, and "Textbook of Inorganic Chemistry", H.Remy, 12th ed., Akademische Verlagsgesellschaft, Leipzig 1965, passim. The layer structure of montmorillonite can be found in Römpps Chemie-Lexikon, Franckh'sche Verlagshandlung W. Keller & Co., Stuttgart, δ.aufl., 1985, pp. 2668 f.

Examples of layered silicates are:

Montmorillonite Na ₀ , ₃₃ ((AI ₁ , ₆₇ Mgo, ₃₃ ) (OH) ₂ (S _i4 O ₁₀ )) often simplified: AI ₂ O ₃ * 4SiO ₂ * H ₂ O * nH ₂ O or AI ₂ [(OH) ₂ / Si ₄ O ₁₀ ] • n H ₂ O

Kaolinite AI ₂ (OH) ₄ (Si ₂ O ₅ ) and (K, H ₃ O) _y (Al ₂ (OH) ₂ (Si _4. _y Al _y O ₁₀ )) with y = 0.7-0.9

Beidellite (Ca, Na) o, ₃ (AI ₂ (OH) ₂ (AI _0ι5 Si _3.5 O ₁₀ ))

Nontronite Na _0.33 (Fe ₂ (OH) ₂ (AI _0.33 S _i3.67 O ₁₀ ))

Saponite (Ca, Na) _0, ₃₃ ((Mg, Fe) ₃ (OH) ₂ (AI _0, ₃₃ Si _3, ₆₇ O ₁₀₎₎

Hectorite Na ₀ . ₃₃ ((Mg, Li) ₃ (OH, F) ₂ (Si ₄ O ₁₀ ))

Montmorillonite is the main mineral of the naturally occurring bentonites.

Very advantageous inorganic gel formers in the sense of the present invention are aluminum silicates such as montmorillonites (bentonites, hectorites and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites or stearalkonium hectorites) or magnesium-aluminum silicates (Veegum®- Types) as well as sodium-magnesium silicates (Laponite® types).

Montmorillonites are clay minerals belonging to the dioctahedral smectites and are masses that swell in water but do not become plastic. The layer packs in the three-layer structure of montmorillonite can by reversible storage of water (in 2-7 times the amount) u. a. Substances such as As alcohols, glycols, pyridine, α-picoline, ammonium compounds, hydroxy-alumino-silicate ions, etc. swell.

The chemical formula given above is only approximate; Since montmorillonite has a large ion exchange capacity, Al can be exchanged for Mg, Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Zn, Pb, Cr, also Cu and others. The resulting negative charge of the octahedron layers is compensated for by cations, in particular Na ⁺ (sodium montmorillonite) and Ca ²⁺ (the calcium montmorillonite is only very slightly swellable) in interlayer positions. Synthetic magnesium silicates or bentonites which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are sold, for example, by Süd-Chemie under the trade name Optigel®.

An aluminum silicate which is advantageous in the sense of the present invention is sold, for example, by R. T. Vanderbilt Comp., Inc., under the trade name Veegum®. The various Veegum® types, all of which are advantageous according to the invention, are distinguished by the following compositions

(regular grade) HV K HS S-728

SiO ₂ 55.5 56.9 64.7 69.0 65.3

MgO 13.0 13.0 5.4 2.9 3.3

AI ₂ O ₃ 8.9 10.3 14.8 14.7 17.0

Fe ₂ O ₃ 1, 0 0.8 1, 5 1, 8 0.7

CaO 2.0 2.0 1.1 1.3 1.3

Na ₂ O 2.1 2.8 2.2 2.2 3.8

K ₂ O 1, 3 1.3 1, 9 0.4 0.2

Ashing pleasure 11, 1 12.6 7.6 5.5, 7.5

These products swell in water to form viscous gels, which are alkaline. Organophilization of montmorillonite or bentonites (exchange of the interlayer cations for quaternary alkylammonium ions) produces products (bentones) that are preferably used for dispersing in organic solvents and oils, fats, ointments, paints, varnishes and in detergents.

Bentone® is a trade name for various neutral and chemically inert gelling agents that are made up of long-chain, organic ammonium salts and special types of montmorillonite.

The following Bentone® types are sold, for example, by Kronos Titan and can be used advantageously in the sense of the present invention: Bentone® 27, an organically modified montmorillonite, Bentone® 34 (dimethyldioctylammonium bentonite), which is produced according to US Pat. No. 2,531,427 and because of it lipophilic Groups swell better in lipophilic medium than in water, Bentone® 38, an organically modified montmorillonite, a cream-colored to white powder, Bentone® LT, a purified clay mineral, Bentone® Gel MIO, an organically modified montmorillonite, which is found in mineral oil (SUS-71 ) is offered in finely suspended form (10% bentonite, 86.7% mineral oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel IPM, an organically modified bentonite suspended in isopropyl myristate (10% bentonite, 86.7% isopropyl myristate, 3 , 3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel CAO, an organically modified montmorillonite that is absorbed in castor oil (10% bentonite, 86.7% castor oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel Lantrol, an organically modified montmorillonite that is intended in paste form for further processing, in particular for the production of cosmetic products; 10% bentonite, 64.9 Lantrol (wool wax oil), 22.0 isopropyl myristate, 3.0 wetting agent and 0.1 p-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester, Bentone® Gel Lan I, a 10% Bentone® 27 paste in a mixture of USP wool wax and isopropyl palmitate, Bentone® Gel Lan II, a bentonite paste in pure, liquid wool wax, Bentone® Gel NV, a 15% Benton® 27 paste in dibutyl phthalate, Bentone® Gel OMS, a bentonite paste in Shellsol T. Bentone® Gel OMS 25, a bentonite paste in isoparaffinic hydrocarbons (Idopar® H), Bentone® Gel IPP, a bentonite paste in isopropyl palmitate.

All Bentone types can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, self-foaming and / or foam-like preparations can advantageously also contain one or more hydrocolloids from one or more of the following groups:

, organic, natural compounds, such as agar agar, carrageenan, carrotant, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,. organic, modified natural substances, such as B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose like. organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as. B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polyurethanes. The cosmetic or dermatological agents according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of foamable preparations which are removed, for example, from aerosol containers and thereby foamed. Aerosol containers which are advantageous according to the invention are spray devices with a filling of the liquid or pulp-like substances which are under the pressure of a propellant (compressed gas or aerosol packs). Such containers can be equipped with valves of very different designs, which allow the contents to be removed as foam.

Furthermore, foamable preparations according to the present invention can advantageously be taken from propellant-free, mechanically operated pump atomizers (pump dispensers). Pump systems which operate without compressed gas but with a filter which causes special turbulence are particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore preferably be in the after-foaming form and can be removed, for example, from two-chamber aerosol containers and applied to the skin. Packaging materials which are advantageous according to the invention are containers in which there is a chamber with a filling of the liquid or slurry-like preparations under the pressure of a standing primary blowing agent located in a second chamber. Such containers can be equipped with valves of very different types, which make it possible to remove the contents of the first chamber as an emulsion or gel in any position - even with the valve downwards.

An advantageous embodiment are BiCan ^® aerosol containers, in which the product is enclosed in a flexible bag made of metal or plastic inside the can.

Post-foaming compositions according to the invention are non-foamed, that is to say immediately after they emerge from an aerosol container, two- or multi-phase systems - as a rule emulsions. They can, however, already be rubbed lightly, for example in the hands or when applied and rubbed on the skin can also be formed into foams by stirring or other foaming processes. It has also surprisingly been found that when (secondary) blowing agents are used, particularly advantageously blowing agents which are soluble in the oil phase which may be present, that is to say, for example, conventional propane-butane mixtures, the preparations according to the invention do not simply form aerosol droplets are sprayed, but develop into fine-bubble, rich foams as soon as such systems loaded with such (secondary) blowing agents experience pressure relief.

If hydrocarbons or their mixtures with 4 or 5 carbon atoms, in particular isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, are used as (secondary) blowing agents, it is possible to delay the self-foaming after they have left the pressure packaging.

The evaporation of the secondary blowing agent in the applied cosmetic product also removes heat from the skin and achieves a pleasant cooling effect. Such post-foaming preparations are therefore also regarded as advantageous embodiments of the present invention with independent inventive activity.

For the purposes of the present invention, the pressure gas containers used are primarily cylindrical vessels made of metal (aluminum, tinplate, content <1000 L), protected or non-splintering glass or plastic (content <220 mL) or splintering glass or plastic (content <150 mL) in question, in the selection of compressive and breaking strength, corrosion resistance, easy fillability, possibly sterilizability etc., but also aesthetic aspects, handiness, printability etc. play a role. The maximum permissible operating pressure of spray cans made of metal at 50 ° C is 12 bar and the maximum filling volume at this temperature is approx. 90% of the total volume. For glass and plastic cans, lower values for the operating pressure apply, depending on the container size and the propellant (whether liquefied, compressed or dissolved gas).

Cans made of tinplate, aluminum and glass are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. For corrosion protection reasons, metal cans can be painted inside (silver or gold painted), for which all commercially available interior protective paints are suitable. For the purposes of the present invention, preference is given to polyester, epoxyphenol and Polyamide-imide. Foil laminations made of polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP) and / or polyethylene terephthalate (PET) inside the cans are also advantageous, especially for cans made of tinplate.

The compressed gas containers are usually one or two, but usually three-part cylindrical, conical or other shape. If plastics are used as spray container material, they should be resistant to chemicals and sterilization temperatures, gas-tight, impact-resistant and stable against internal pressures above 12 bar. Polyacetals and polyamides are principally suitable for spray container purposes.

The internal structure of the spray cans and the valve construction are dependent on the intended use and the physical nature of the content - e.g. B. whether as a two- or three-phase system - very varied and can be determined by a person skilled in the art by simply trying out without inventive step. For suitable embodiments, reference is made to the “Aerosol Technology Manual for Aersosol Packaging” (Wolfgang Tauscher, Melcher Verlag GmbH Heidelberg / Munich, 1996).

Valves advantageous according to the invention can be designed with or without a riser pipe. The individual parts from which valves according to the invention are usually constructed preferably consist of the following materials:

Plate: tinplate: bare, gold or clear lacquered, foil-laminated (PE, PP or PET) aluminum: bare, silver or gold lacquered, different lacquer variants, stoner mudge version

Sealing: natural or synthetic elastomers or thermoplastic (sleeve gaskets, film-lined from PE or PP) inner and outer seals, e.g. B. from Perbunan, Buna, neoprene, butyl, CLB, LDPE, Viton, EPDM, chlorobutyl, bromobutyl and / or various compounds

Cone: PA, POM, brass and various special materials,

Standard bores (e.g. 0.25 to 0.70 mm or 2 x 0.45 to 2 x 1.00 mm), different shaft diameters

Spring: metal, particularly preferably V2A, stainless steel; Plastic and also elastomer

Housing: standard and impact

VPH holes, RPT holes or slotted for overhead applications. B. polyacetal, PA, PE, POM and the like

Riser pipe: plastic (polymer resin), e.g. PE, PP, PA or polycarbonate

Advantageous spray heads in the sense of the present invention are, for example, foam heads for upright use (holding the can vertically) or foam heads for overhead use with one or more channels.

The (secondary) blowing agents are the customary “classic” volatile, liquefied propellants, such as, for example, dimethyl ether (DME) and / or linear or branched-chain hydrocarbons having two to five carbon atoms (such as, in particular, ethane, propane, butane, isobutane and / or Pentane) suitable, which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another.

Compressed air and other pressurized gases such as air, oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen, helium, krypton, xenon, radon, argon, laughing gas (N ₂ O) and carbon dioxide (CO ₂ ) are also advantageous as propellants in the sense of the present invention (both to be used individually as in any mixtures - with one another).

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are other non-toxic propellant gases which would fundamentally be suitable for the implementation of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with, in particular halogenated ones, because of harmful effects on the environment or other accompanying circumstances (substituted with fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine and / or astatine) hydrocarbons such as fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs). For the purposes of the present invention, the gases mentioned can be used individually or in any mixtures with one another.

For the purposes of the present invention, the volume fraction of propellant gas is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 30% by volume, based on the total volume of filling material and propellant gas (corresponding to a volume fraction of 70 to 99.9% by volume filling material) ,

A particularly preferred propellant in the sense of the present invention is carbon dioxide. Foams obtainable from preparations according to the invention which contain carbon dioxide as one or the active ingredient are particularly advantageous.

Particularly advantageous, fine creamy and rich foams can be obtained if the preparations according to the invention are foamed using linear or branched-chain, halogenated or non-halogenated hydrocarbons. Very particularly advantageous foams can be obtained by foaming the preparations according to the invention with carbon dioxide, oxygen, compressed air, helium, krypton, xenon, radon, argon and / or nitrogen (both individually and in any mixtures with one another).

The cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual. Preparations for skin care are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention: they can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, for treating the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. Another advantageous embodiment of the present invention consists of after-sun products.

Depending on their structure, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can be used for the purposes of the present invention, for example as a skin protection cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations. Just as emulsions of liquid and solid consistency are used as cosmetic cleansing lotions or cleansing creams, the preparations according to the invention can also represent “cleansing foams” which are used, for example, to remove make-up and / or make-up or as a mild wash foam - possibly also for impure skin Such cleaning foams can advantageously also be used as so-called “rinse off” preparations which are rinsed off the skin after use

The cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of a foam for the care of the hair or the scalp, in particular a foam for inserting the hair, a foam which is used for blow-drying the hair, a hairdressing and treatment foam.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the preparations according to the invention contain substances which further improve the stability of the foamed preparations, increase the entry of gases and / or improve the cosmetic properties of the foams according to the invention. Such substances are also referred to below as “foam boosters”.

Foam enhancers within the meaning of the present invention can advantageously be selected from the group of copolymers which are distinguished by the following structural formula (I)

(I) in which

R ^{1 is} a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 4 to 40 carbon atoms,

R ² = -OCH ₃ or -O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x R ¹ ,

X is an integer from 1 to 100,

• n an integer from 100 to 250 and

• y mean 2 or 3 on average.

Particularly advantageous foam boosters for the purposes of the present invention are those copolymers for which n is an integer from 150 to 200. It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if, in addition, R ^{1 is} a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the average molecular weight of the copolymers is between 30,000 and 50,000.

PEG-180 / octoxynol-40 / tetramethoxymethylglycoluril copolymers with R ² = -O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) ₄ oC ₈ H ₁₇ and n = 180 are very particularly advantageous according to the invention. PEG-180 / Laureth-50 / tetramethoxymethylglycoluril copolymers with R ² = -O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) ₅₀ C ₁₂ H ₂₅ and n = 180 are also particularly advantageous according to the invention.

Polyether-1 is also particularly advantageous according to the invention.

Waxes and / or lipids which are solid or semisolid at room temperature are also advantageous foam boosters for the purposes of the present invention.

Waxes and / or lipids which are solid or semisolid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are compounds which are characterized in that they are used together with the other oil components of the preparations according to the invention (such as polar, liquid compounds, UV filters and their solvents, etc.) form a spreadable or flowable mass at room temperature, which has a viscosity of more than 500 mPa-s at 20 ° C.

Advantageous waxes and / or lipids according to the invention are, for example, paraffin hydrocarbons, synthetic or semisynthetic waxes or wax esters as well as vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof with melting points or solidification points of 25 to 125 ° C.

Advantageous waxes according to the invention are also those listed below: Class Subgroup Examples Natural Waxes Vegetable Waxes Candelilla Wax, Camauba Wax, Japanese Wax,

Esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax animal. Beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin

(Wool wax), Bürzelfett mineral waxes ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax) formerly modified hard waxes montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated

Grow jojoba waxes synthet. Waxes polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols , Polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those available under the trade names Koncyl-L, Koncyl-S and Konkaben LMB from Lonza), parabens, Phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives. The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Further advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention are natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, camosin, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine.

Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of the dry or rough skin.

Surprisingly, selected formulations according to the invention can also have an anti-wrinkle effect or considerably increase the effect of known anti-wrinkle active ingredients. Accordingly, formulations in the sense of the present invention are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those e.g. B. occur in skin aging. They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention therefore relates to products for the care of the naturally aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by light aging, in particular the phenomena listed above.

The water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those with a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols with a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, Ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and moisturizers.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the skin layer (also called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the layer on the home.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. For example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is described in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5, are particularly advantageous filed and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

If the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4 '-nitro- - phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'- sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthyl-azo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1 - ( 4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolon-3-car - Bonic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluoresce in, S '^'. δ'.e'-tetrachlor ^^. δJ-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77491 (red) and 77499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide. Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.

Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:

1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.

^■ "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and

^■ "mother-of-pearl" (ground mussel shells)

2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)

3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

TiO ₂ / Car in I red

Z are particularly preferred. B. the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.

The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Are advantageous for. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It can also be advantageous to do without a substrate such as mica. Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF.

Also particularly advantageous are effect pigments, which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue). The glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and with one another. be coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses. The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations , It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. So z. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.

Accordingly, in the sense of the present invention, the preparations preferably contain, in addition to one or more UV filter substances according to the invention, at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethyl hexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethyl! Hexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamate isopentyl acid methoxy cinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate).

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

The pigments can advantageously also be used in the sense of the present invention in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in the pigments being coated with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings can also contain water in the sense of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: bisoctyl-triazole], which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

(

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Further advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are hydroxybenzophenones, which are distinguished by the following structural formula:

wherein • R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ -cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ -cycloalkenyl, the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and

• R ^{3 is} a C ^ C ^ alky! Rest means.

A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which has the chemical structural formula

is marked.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B.

• Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5 ₁ 5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example is available under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;

1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidene-methyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) becomes. Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2) and is, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from available from Chimex; • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.

2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazine), which is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH under the trade name Tinosorb® S; • Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;

• 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2 ₎ 4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2 ^, -ethyl-1 ^, -hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which under the trade name Tinosorb® M is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] di- siloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

The UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;

• esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

• esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester; • Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and

• UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539th

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain several UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazole -2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)], phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or hydroxybenzophenone, especially aminobenzophenone, each individually or in any combination with one another.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Formulation Examples:

Example 1 (foam-shaped O / W cream):

Emulsion I% by weight% by volume

Stearic acid 5.00

Cetyl alcohol 5.50

PEG-40 stearate 8.50

Talc 2.00

SiO ₂ 2.00

Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.50

Paraffin oil 5.00

Isohexadecane 2.00

Cyclomethicone 7.00

Dimethicon /

Vinyl dimethicone cross polymer 2.00

Glycerin 5.00

Ceresin 4.00

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.5-7.5

Emulsion I 70

Gas (nitrogen) 30

Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloid and the polymer with stirring in the water phase. Combination of the fat phase heated to 75 ° C with the water phase heated to 70 ° C. Add the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobized solid substances with stirring. Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. 45 min stirring with gassing with nitrogen at 0.7 bar and cooling. Addition of additives at 30 ° C (perfume, active ingredients). Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 27 ° C. Example 2 (foam-shaped O / W lotion):

Emulsion II% by weight% by volume

Stearic acid 4.00

Myristyl alcohol 1.50

Cetylstearyl alcohol 0.50

PEG 100 stearate 4.00

Kaolin 0.05

Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.05

Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.20

Mineral oil 8.00

Cyclomethicone 6.00

Dimethicone 3.00

PEG-180 / Laureth-50 / TMMG copolymer 0.50

Glycerin 3.00

Aminobenzophenone 2.00

Hydrogenated coco glyceride 5.00

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-6.5

Emulsion II 50

Gas (carbon dioxide) 50

Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloid and the polymer with stirring in the water phase. Combination of the fat phase heated to 80 ° C with the water phase heated to 72 ° C. Add the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobized solid substances with stirring. Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. 45 min stirring with gassing with carbon dioxide at 1.2 bar and cooling. Add the additives at 30 ° C (perfume). Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 30 ° C. Example 3 (foam-shaped O / W lotion):

Emulsion III% by weight vol

Stearic acid 2.00

Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.50

PEG-30 stearate 3.00

Aluminum starch octenyl succinate 3.00

Talc 0.50

Polyurethane 0.10

Magnesium silicate 0.10

PEG-180 / Octoxynol-40 / TMMG copolymer 0.25

Cyclomethicone 5.00

Dimethicone 1.00

Phenyl trimethicone 1, 00

Dimethicon /

Vinyl dimethicone cross polymer 1.00

Cetyl palmitate 1.00

Cera Microcristallina 1, 00

Hydrogenated polyisobutene 10.00

Citric acid 0.10

Aminobenzophenone 1, 20

Glycerin 5.00

Perfume, preservative, q.s.

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Dyes etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0-7.5

Emulsion III 65

Gas (air) 35

Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloids and the polymer with stirring in the water phase. Combination of the fat phase heated to 80 ° C with the water phase heated to 75 ° C. Add the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobized solid substances with stirring. homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. 45 min stirring in an open kettle up to 30 ° C. Addition of additives at 30 ° C (perfume, active ingredients). Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 25 ° C.

Example 4 (foam-shaped O / W sun protection cream):

Emulsion IV% by weight% by volume

Stearic acid 1, 00

Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00

PEG-20 stearate 1, 00

Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglycerides 2.00

Paraffin oil 10.00

Cyclomethicone 5.00

Dimethicone 0.50

Dimethicon /

Vinyl dimethicone cross polymer 1, 50

Octyl isostearate 2.00

Myristyl Myristat 1, 00

Glycerin 6.00

Carboxymethyl cellulose 0.05

Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.50

PEG-180 / Laureth-50 / TMMG copolymer 0.50

Talc 0.50

Octyl methoxycinnamate 4.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 3.00

Ethylhexyltriazon 3.00

Aminobenzophenone 1.80

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 2.00

triazine

BHT 0.02

Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.10

Perfume, preservative, qs Dyes, etc. qs

Potassium hydroxide q.s

Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-6.0

Emulsion IV 35

Gas (argon) 65

Predispersion of the inorganic gel formers and swelling of the hydrocolloids and the polymer with stirring in the water phase. Combination of the fat phase heated to 78 ° C with the water phase heated to 75 ° C. Add the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobized solid substances with stirring. Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. 45 min stirring in the Becomix while gassing with argon at 1 bar with cooling to 30 ° C. Addition of additives at 30 ° C (perfume, active ingredients). Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 23 ° C.

Example 5 (foamable O / W cream):

Emulsion V% by weight% by volume

Stearic acid 2.00

Cetyl alcohol 1.00

PEG-30 stearate 1.00

Isohexadecane 4.00

Cyclomethicone 12.00

Shea Butter 2.50

Ozokerite 0.50

Vitamin E acetate 1.00

Retinyl palmitate 0.20

Glycerin 3.00

BHT 0.02

Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.10

Perfume, preservative, q.s.

Dyes q.s.

Potassium hydroxide qs Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-7.0

Emulsion V 90

Gas (dimethyl ether) 10

Example 6 (foamable O / W lotion):

Emulsion VI% by weight% by volume

Stearic acid 3.00

Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00

PEG 100 stearate 2.00

Paraffin oil 3.00

Dimethicone 1.00

Cyclomethicone 2.00

Vitamin E acetate 2.00

Vaseline (petrolatum) 2.50

Glycerin 3.50

Carboxymethyl cellulose 0.05

Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.50

Kaolin 0.05

Talc 0.50

Perfume, preservative,

Dyes etc. q.s.

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0-7.5

Emulsion VI 95

Gas (propane / butane) 5

Example 7 (foamable O / W emulsion ake-up):

Emulsion VII% by weight% by volume

Palmitic acid 3.00 Cetyl alcohol 3.00

PEG 100 stearate 3.00

Cyclomethicone 6.00

Dimethicone 0.50

Hydrogenated polyisobutene 9.50

Dicaprylyl carbonate 2.00

Cetyl Ricinoleate 2.00

Glycerin 3.00

Mica 1.00

Iron oxides 1.00

Titanium dioxide 4.50

Aminobenzophenone 1.00

Vitamin A palmitate 0.10

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0 -7.5

Emulsion VII 93

Gas (propane / butane) 7

Claims

claims:

1. Self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which I. an emulsifier system, which

A. at least one emulsifier A, selected from the group of fully, partially or non-neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, B. at least one emulsifier B. from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and C. at least one coemulsifier C, selected from the group of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and

II. Up to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, of a lipid phase which (a) one or more lipids from the group of silicone oils and silicone waxes and (b) one or more lipids from the group of nonpolar lipids with a polarity> 30 mN / m, the ratio of (a) to (b) being selected from the range from 1: 3 to 3: 1.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the lipid phase contains up to 40 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the lipid phase - lipids with a polarity of at most 30 mN / m.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) is chosen as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently of one another rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) such as 1: 1: 1 is selected

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of substances according to A., B. and C. from the range of 2 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation, are selected.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains further emulsifiers selected from the group of hydrophilic emulsifiers, in particular mono-, di-, trifatty acid esters of sorbitan.

7. Preparation according to claim 6, characterized in that the total amount of the further emulsifiers is less than 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the

Wording, is chosen.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains one or more UV filter substances.

9. Preparation according to claim 8, characterized in that the total amount of the further UV filter substances is selected from the range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight the wording.

10. Preparation according to one of claims 8 or 9, characterized in that a hydroxybenzophenone, in particular the 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester is chosen as the UV filter substance.

11. Self-foaming and / or foam-like preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volume fraction of one or more gases of 10 to 80 vol .-%, based on the total volume of the preparation, is selected.

12. Preparation according to claim 8, characterized in that carbon dioxide is selected as the gas.

13. A method for producing foams, characterized in that preparations according to one of claims 1 to 9 when removed from a compressed gas container with the aid of

• linear and / or branched-chain, halogenated and / or non-halogenated hydrocarbons, • carbon dioxide, oxygen, compressed air and / or nitrogen and / or

• Foam up with dimethyl ether.