EP1427382A1 - Foundation composition containing interference pigments - Google Patents

Foundation composition containing interference pigments

Info

Publication number
EP1427382A1
EP1427382A1 EP02774899A EP02774899A EP1427382A1 EP 1427382 A1 EP1427382 A1 EP 1427382A1 EP 02774899 A EP02774899 A EP 02774899A EP 02774899 A EP02774899 A EP 02774899A EP 1427382 A1 EP1427382 A1 EP 1427382A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition according
weight
composition
pigments
sio
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02774899A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Richard Kolodziej
Jean-Christophe Simon
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR0111374A external-priority patent/FR2829022B1/en
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP1427382A1 publication Critical patent/EP1427382A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0254—Platelets; Flakes
    • A61K8/0258—Layered structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing gonioc romatic pigments, and more particularly to a composition for making up the skin of both the face and the human body.
  • the composition according to the invention is a colored makeup composition such as products for the complexion (foundation), blushes or eye shadows, concealer products, blushes, body makeup products.
  • the composition is generally used as it is for application to the skin, but it can also be applied to makeup already deposited on the skin, for example to modify makeup (the composition is applied as a surface product commonly called top coat in Anglo-Saxon terminology).
  • the makeup composition can also be applied to makeup accessories (support) such as lozenges or patches adhering to the skin or the lips (of the fly type).
  • interference pigments in make-up products, in particular for their particular color effects (WO 96/03/0362 for a particular interference pigment or DE 199.07.313).
  • the makeup compositions containing interference pigments may also contain specific coloring materials such as lacquers (see JP-A-2000-34203 or JP-A-2000- 34204).
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a makeup composition having a makeup having a color corresponding to the color of the skin, thus imparting a natural color effect.
  • Another object of the invention is to have a makeup composition allowing, after application to the skin, to modify the visual appearance of the contours of the face, thus modifying the appearance of the volumes of the face visible on the face. naked eye; this particular makeup effect corresponds to a sculpting effect on the face, also known in English terminology as the "morphing" effect.
  • composition can be obtained by combining particular interference pigments, which are goniochromatic pigments, with an additional coloring agent in particular quantities.
  • the composition makes it possible to obtain a makeup having a sculpting effect on the face while retaining a natural look.
  • the subject of the invention is a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, goniochromatic pigments having a color effect and an additional coloring material, characterized in that the goniochromatic pigments and the additional coloring agent are present in the composition according to a weight ratio of goniochromatic pigments / active material of the additional coloring agent ranging from 0.1 to 2.
  • the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for making up the skin comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined above.
  • the subject of the invention is also a make-up support, such as the make-up accessories mentioned above, comprising make-up capable of being obtained according to the make-up method as defined above and applied to said support.
  • physiologically acceptable medium means a medium compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, such as a cosmetic medium.
  • a goniochromatic pigment is a pigment capable of producing different colors depending on the incidence of light and the angle of observation. More precisely, such a pigment makes it possible to obtain, when the cosmetic composition is spread on a support, a color path in the plane a * b * of the CIE 1976 color space which corresponds to a variation Dh of the hue angle h of at least 20 ° when the observation angle is varied from normal between 0 ° and 80 °, for an angle of incidence of light of 45 °.
  • the color path can be measured for example by means of a spectrogoniorflectometer of the INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS brand and of reference GON 360 GONIOMETER, after the cosmetic composition has been spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 ⁇ m by means of a automatic spreader on an ERICHSEN brand contrast card and Typ 24/5 reference card, the measurement being made on the black background of the card.
  • a goniochromatic pigment within the meaning of the present invention makes it possible to observe a color change, also called “color flop”, as a function of the angle of observation, greater than that which can be encountered with nacres.
  • the goniochromatic pigments are goniochromatic pigments with an interference multilayer structure.
  • the multilayer structure of the goniochromatic pigments can comprise at least two layers, each layer, independently or not of the other layer (s), being made of at least one material chosen from the group made up of the following materials:
  • the goniochromatic pigment with an interference multilayer structure according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of the following commercial goniochromatic pigments: Infinité Colors manufactured or marketed by the company SHISEIDO, Sicopearl Fantastico manufactured or marketed by the company BASF, Colorstream manufactured or marketed by MERCK, Colorglitter manufactured or marketed by 3M, Chromaflair manufactured or marketed by FLEX, Xirallic and Xirona manufactured or marketed by MERCK and their mixtures.
  • the multilayer structure can be essentially mineral or organic. Depending on the thickness of each of the different layers, different colors are obtained.
  • the goniochromatic pigments with an interference multilayer structure according to the invention are in particular those described in the following documents: US-A-3,438,796, EP-A-227,423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170439, EP- A-341002, US-A-4 930 866, US-A- 5 641 719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A- 768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154, EP-A-579091, US-A-5 411 586, US-A- 5 364 467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4 225 031, WO 9517479 (BASF), DE-A-196 14 637, and their associations. They are in the form of glitter, metallic color.
  • the interference multilayer structure is chosen from the group consisting of the structures: AI / SiO 2 / AI / SiO 2 / AI; Cr / MgF 2 / AI / MgF 2 / Cr MoS 2 / Si ⁇ 2 / AI / SiO 2 / MoS2; Fe 2 ⁇ 3 / Si ⁇ 2 / AI / SiO 2 / Fe2 ⁇ 3
  • the structure is made up of alternating layers of low optical index and high optical index.
  • the goniochromatic pigments can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 20% by weight.
  • the coloring agent present in the composition according to the invention is different from the goniochromatic pigments described above.
  • the coloring agent ad- can be chosen from pigments, nacres, dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the coloring agent can comprise at least one pigment.
  • pigments should be understood to mean particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition. By pearlescent or pearlescent pigments, it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent shape, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized.
  • the pigments can be present in the composition in an amount of 0 to 30% (in particular 0.01% to 30%) relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0 0.02% to 5% by weight.
  • the pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.
  • mineral pigments mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metallic powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder and their mixtures.
  • organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum and their mixtures.
  • the coloring agent can also comprise at least one mother-of-pearl or pearly pigment.
  • the nacres can be present in the composition in a proportion of 0 to 25% (in particular 0.01% to 25%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.02% to 5% by weight.
  • the pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, mica titanium coated with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention may, inter alia, comprise dyes soluble in the physiological medium and in particular liposoluble or water-soluble dyes.
  • the coloring agent can also comprise a coloring material chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes or alternatively coloring polymers.
  • the coloring matter may be present in the composition in a content of active coloring matter ranging from 0 to 6% (in particular 0.01% to 6%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0 , 01% to 3% by weight.
  • the liposoluble dyes are for example soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow, Sudan Red III (CTFA name D&C red 17), lutein, quinizarin green ( name CTFA DC green 6), Alizurol SS purple (name CTFA DC purple N ° 2), carotenoid derivatives such as lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin, capsantein, and / or mixtures thereof.
  • water-soluble dyes examples include extracts of dye plants, such as, for example, Aleurites Moluccana Willd, Alkanna Tinctoria Tausch, Areca Catechu L., Arrabidaea Chica E.
  • henna or Impatiens Balsamina red wood extracts as described in document WO98 / 44902, beet juice, disodium salt of suschine, anthocyanins such as red fruit extracts, dihydrbxyacetone, d mono or polycarbonylated rivets such as isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, pyrazoline-4,5-dione derivatives, and mixtures thereof, these skin coloring agents being able to be combined or not with direct dyes or indole derivatives, and / or their mixtures.
  • the coloring agent can also comprise a coloring polymer, that is to say a polymer comprising at least one organic coloring group.
  • the coloring polymer generally contains less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer, of coloring matter.
  • the coloring polymer can be of any chemical nature, in particular polyester, polyamide, polyurethane, polyacrylic, poly (meth) acrylic, polycarbonate, polymers of natural origin such as cellulosic or chitosan polymers, or mixtures thereof, and preferably polyester polymers. or polyurethane.
  • the coloring polymer may comprise a coloring group can be grafted, in particular by covalent bonding, onto the polymer chain, as described in documents WO-A-96/29046, WO-A-92/01022, WO-A-90 / 07558, BE-A-609054.
  • the coloring polymer can be a copolymer based on at least two distinct monomers, at least one of which is an organic coloring monomer.
  • the monomers of the coloring polymer can be chosen from anthraquinones, methines, bis-methines, aza-methines, arylidenes, 3H-dibenzo [7, ij] isoquinolines, 2,5-diarylaminoterephthalic acids and their esters, phthaloylphenothiazines, phthaloylphenoxazines, phthaloylacridone, anthrapyrimidines, anthrapyrazoles, phthalocyanines, quinophthalones, indophenols, perinones, nitroarylamines, benzodifuran, 2 H-1-benzopyran-2- one, quinophthalones , perylenes, quinacridones, triphenodioxazines, fluoridines, 4-amino-1, 8-naphthalimides, thioxanthrones, benzanthrones, indanthrones, indigo, thioindigo,
  • Dye monomers are described in particular in documents US-A-4,267,306; US-A-4,359,570; US-A-4,403,092; US-A-4,617,373; US-A-4,080,355; US-A-4,740,581; US-A-4,116,923; US-A-4,745,173; US-A-4,804,719, US-A-5, 194,463; US-A-5,804,719; WO-A-92/07913.
  • Polymeric dyes are described in particular in documents US-A-4,804,719; US-A-5,032,670; US-A-4,999,418; US-A-5, 106.942; US-A-5,030,708; US-A-5,102,980; US-A-5,043,376, US-A-5, 194,463; WO-A-92/07913; WO-A-97/24102, the content of which is incorporated by reference into the present application.
  • sulfopolyester coloring polymers such as those described in document WO-A-97/24102 are used.
  • the coloring polymers may be present in the composition according to the invention, in a content ranging from 0% to 50% by weight (0.01% to 50%), relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0 , 5% to 25% by weight, and better ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight.
  • the goniochromatic pigments and the additional coloring agent are present in the composition according to the invention, according to a weight ratio of goniochromatic pigments / active material of the additional coloring agent less than or equal to 2, preferably ranging from 0.1 and 1.5, even more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 1.5, for example equal to approximately 1 (that is to say ranging from 0.9 to 1.1).
  • composition according to the invention may also contain fillers " .
  • fillers it is necessary to include particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
  • the fillers can be mineral or organic of any form, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.) Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene, powders of polymers of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of chloru re of polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), of acrylic acid copolymers (Poly-trap® of the company Dow Corning) and microbeads of silicone resin (Tos-pearls® of Toshiba, for example) , elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium
  • the composition of the invention may comprise a particulate phase comprising the pigments and / or the nacres and / or the fillers as defined above, which may be present at a rate of 0 to 98% (in particular 0.01% to 98%) of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% and better still from 0.02% to 20%.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic cosmetic medium or a lipophilic medium.
  • the composition can comprise water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents such as alcohols and in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols such as glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols.
  • hydrophilic phase can, in addition, contain C 2 ethers and C 2 -C hydrophilic aldehydes.
  • the water or the mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the composition according to the invention, or one of the base and / or surface compositions, in a content ranging from 0% to 90% (in particular 0.1% to 90%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0% to 60% by weight (in particular 0.1% to 60% by weight).
  • the composition may also comprise a fatty phase, in particular consisting of fatty substances liquid at room temperature (25 ° C. in general) and / or fatty substances solid at ambient temperature such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures. .
  • This fatty phase can, in addition, contain lipophilic organic solvents.
  • oils As fatty substances liquid at room temperature, often called oils, which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or even sunflower, corn, soybean, grape seed, sesame oils, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as te parlam; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octy
  • oils can be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90%, and better still from 0.1 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more organic solvents, cosmetically acceptable (tolerance, toxicology and touch acceptable). These solvents can be present in a content ranging from 0 to 90% and better still from 0 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 30%.
  • esters of acetic acid such as methyl, ethyl, butyl, amyl, 2-methoxy-ethyl acetate, acetate d isopropyl
  • ketones such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone
  • hydrocarbons such as toluene, xylene, hexane, heptane
  • aldehydes having 5 to 10 carbon atoms
  • ethers having at least 3 carbon atoms; and their mixtures.
  • composition of the invention can also advantageously comprise a solid or pasty fatty substance at room temperature, such as gums or waxes.
  • the waxes can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes have a melting point above 25 ° C and better still above 45 ° C.
  • the gums are generally high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or cellulose gums or polysaccharides and the pasty bodies are generally hydrocarbon compounds such as lanolines and their derivatives or PDMS.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • cellulose gums or polysaccharides and the pasty bodies are generally hydrocarbon compounds such as lanolines and their derivatives or PDMS.
  • the composition may contain 0.01 to 50% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition and better still from 1 to 30% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may be in particular in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a solution, a gel, an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (E) emulsion.
  • O / W oil-in-water
  • E water-in-oil
  • composition may be in an organic continuous phase, in particular anhydrous.
  • composition according to the invention can also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners (in particular possibly modified clays), trace elements, softeners, sequestrants, perfumes, basifying agents. or acidifiers, preservatives, UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
  • ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as vitamins, thickeners (in particular possibly modified clays), trace elements, softeners, sequestrants, perfumes, basifying agents. or acidifiers, preservatives, UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the invention can be obtained according to the preparation methods conventionally used in cosmetics or in dermatology.
  • compositions below are given by way of illustration and without limitation.
  • a foundation comprising:
  • the hold applied to the face gives a natural-looking makeup with sculpting effects on the face.
  • the hold applied to the face gives a natural-looking makeup with sculpting effects on the face.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention concerns a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, goniochromatic pigments having a colour effect and an additional dyeing agent, the colour effect of the composition having a natural appearance. The invention also concerns a skin make-up method.

Description

Composition de fond de teint comprenant des pigments interférentiels Foundation composition comprising interference pigments
La présente invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique contenant des pigments gonioc romatiques, et plus spécialement à une composition de maquil- lage de la peau aussi bien du visage que du corps humain.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing gonioc romatic pigments, and more particularly to a composition for making up the skin of both the face and the human body.
La composition selon l'invention est une composition de maquillage colorée comme les produits pour le teint (fonds de teint), les fards à joues ou à paupières, les produits anti-cernes, les blush, les produits de maquillage du corps. La compo- sition est généralement utilisée telle quelle pour l'application sur la peau, mais elle peut aussi être appliquée sur un maquillage déjà déposé sur la peau, par exemple pour modifier le maquillage (la composition est appliquée comme produit de surface communément appelée top coat en terminologie anglo-saxonne).The composition according to the invention is a colored makeup composition such as products for the complexion (foundation), blushes or eye shadows, concealer products, blushes, body makeup products. The composition is generally used as it is for application to the skin, but it can also be applied to makeup already deposited on the skin, for example to modify makeup (the composition is applied as a surface product commonly called top coat in Anglo-Saxon terminology).
La composition de maquillage peut également être appliquée sur des accessoires de maquillage (support) comme des pastilles ou patchs adhérents sur la peau ou les lèvres (du type mouches).The makeup composition can also be applied to makeup accessories (support) such as lozenges or patches adhering to the skin or the lips (of the fly type).
Il est connu d'utiliser des pigments interférentiels dans des produits de maquillage notamment pour leurs effets de couleur particuliers (WO 96/03.962 pour un pigment interférentiel particulier ou DE 199.07.313). Les compositions de maquillage contenant des pigments interférentiels peuvent également contenir des matières colorantes particulières comme des laques (voir JP-A-2000-34203 ou JP-A-2000- 34204).It is known to use interference pigments in make-up products, in particular for their particular color effects (WO 96/03/0362 for a particular interference pigment or DE 199.07.313). The makeup compositions containing interference pigments may also contain specific coloring materials such as lacquers (see JP-A-2000-34203 or JP-A-2000- 34204).
Le but de la présente invention est de proposer une composition de maquillage présentant un maquillage ayant une couleur correspondant à la couleur de la peau, conférant ainsi un effet de couleur naturel. Un autre but de l'invention est de disposer d'une composition de maquillage permettant après l'application sur la peau de modifier l'apparence visuelle des contours du visage, modifiant ainsi l'ap- parence des volumes du visage visibles à l'œil nu ; cet effet de maquillage particulier correspond à un effet de sculpture du visage, appelé également en terminologie anglo-saxone effet « morphing ».The object of the present invention is to provide a makeup composition having a makeup having a color corresponding to the color of the skin, thus imparting a natural color effect. Another object of the invention is to have a makeup composition allowing, after application to the skin, to modify the visual appearance of the contours of the face, thus modifying the appearance of the volumes of the face visible on the face. naked eye; this particular makeup effect corresponds to a sculpting effect on the face, also known in English terminology as the "morphing" effect.
Les inventeurs ont découvert qu'une telle composition peut être obtenue en associant des pigments interférentiels particuliers, qui sont des pigments goniochromatiques, à un agent de coloration additionnel en des quantités particulières. La composition permet d'obtenir un maquillage présentant un effet de sculpture du visage tout en conservant un rendu naturel.The inventors have discovered that such a composition can be obtained by combining particular interference pigments, which are goniochromatic pigments, with an additional coloring agent in particular quantities. The composition makes it possible to obtain a makeup having a sculpting effect on the face while retaining a natural look.
La composition appliquée sur la peau permet d'obtenir un bon camouflage des imperfections de la peau. De façon plus précise, l'invention a pour objet une composition comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, des pigments goniochromatiques présentant un effet de couleur et une matière colorante additionnelle, caractérisée en ce que les pigments goniochromatiques et l'agent de coloration additionnel sont pré- sents dans la composition selon un rapport pondéral pigments goniochromatiques / matière active de l'agent de coloration additionnel allant de 0,1 à 2.The composition applied to the skin makes it possible to obtain good camouflage of the skin imperfections. More specifically, the subject of the invention is a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, goniochromatic pigments having a color effect and an additional coloring material, characterized in that the goniochromatic pigments and the additional coloring agent are present in the composition according to a weight ratio of goniochromatic pigments / active material of the additional coloring agent ranging from 0.1 to 2.
L'invention a également pour objet un procédé cosmétique de maquillage de la peau comprenant l'application sur la peau d'une composition telle que définie pré- cédemment.The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for making up the skin comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined above.
L'invention a également pour objet un support maquillé, tels que les accessoires de maquillage cités précédemment, comprenant un maquillage susceptible d'être obtenu selon le procédé de maquillage tel que défini précédemment et appliqué sur ledit support.The subject of the invention is also a make-up support, such as the make-up accessories mentioned above, comprising make-up capable of being obtained according to the make-up method as defined above and applied to said support.
Dans la présente demande, on entend par "milieu physiologiquement acceptable", un milieu compatible avec les matières kératiniques d'êtres humains telles que la peau, les ongles, les cheveux, les cils, les sourcils, comme un milieu cosmétique.In the present application, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, such as a cosmetic medium.
Un pigment goniochromatique est un pigment susceptible de produire différentes couleurs selon l'incidence de la lumière et l'angle d'observation. De façon plus précise, un tel pigment permet d'obtenir, lorsque la composition cosmétique est étalée sur un support, un trajet de couleur dans le plan a*b* de l'espace colorimetrique CIE 1976 qui correspond à une variation Dh de l'angle de teinte h d'au moins 20° lorsque l'on fait varier l'angle d'observation par rapport à la normale entre 0° et 80°, pour un angle d'incidence de la lumière de 45°. Le trajet de couleur peut être mesuré par exemple au moyen d'un spectrogonioréflectomètre de marque INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS et de référence GON 360 GONIOMETER, après que la composition cosmétique ait été étalée à l'état fluide avec une épaisseur de 300 μm au moyen d'un étaleur automatique sur une carte de contraste de marque ERICHSEN et de référence Typ 24/5, la mesure étant effectuée sur le fond noir de la carte. Un pigment goniochromatique au sens de la présente invention permet d'observer un changement de couleur, encore appelé « color flop », en fonction de l'angle d'observation, supérieur à celui que l'on peut rencontrer avec des nacres.A goniochromatic pigment is a pigment capable of producing different colors depending on the incidence of light and the angle of observation. More precisely, such a pigment makes it possible to obtain, when the cosmetic composition is spread on a support, a color path in the plane a * b * of the CIE 1976 color space which corresponds to a variation Dh of the hue angle h of at least 20 ° when the observation angle is varied from normal between 0 ° and 80 °, for an angle of incidence of light of 45 °. The color path can be measured for example by means of a spectrogoniorflectometer of the INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS brand and of reference GON 360 GONIOMETER, after the cosmetic composition has been spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 μm by means of a automatic spreader on an ERICHSEN brand contrast card and Typ 24/5 reference card, the measurement being made on the black background of the card. A goniochromatic pigment within the meaning of the present invention makes it possible to observe a color change, also called “color flop”, as a function of the angle of observation, greater than that which can be encountered with nacres.
De préférence, les pigments goniochromatiques sont des pigments goniochromatiques à structure multicouche interférentielle.Preferably, the goniochromatic pigments are goniochromatic pigments with an interference multilayer structure.
La structure multicouche des pigments goniochromatiques peut comporter au moins deux couches, chaque couche, indépendamment ou non de la (ou les) au- tre(s) couche(s), étant réalisée en au moins un matériau choisi dans le groupe constitué par les matériaux suivants :The multilayer structure of the goniochromatic pigments can comprise at least two layers, each layer, independently or not of the other layer (s), being made of at least one material chosen from the group made up of the following materials:
MgF2l CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, AI2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S203, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cr, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, M0S2, cryolithe, alliages, polymères et leurs associations.MgF 2l CeF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2 , Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3 , Pt, Va, AI 2 O 3 , MgO, Y 2 O 3 , S 2 0 3 , SiO, HfO 2 , ZrO 2 , CeO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , Ta 2 O 5 , TiO 2 , Ag, Al, Au, Cr, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, M0S 2 , cryolite, alloys, polymers and their associations.
De préférence, le pigment goniochromatique à structure multicouche interféren- tielle selon l'invention est choisi dans le groupe constitué par les pigments goniochromatiques commerciaux suivants : Infinité Colors fabriqué ou commercialisé par la société SHISEIDO, Sicopearl Fantastico fabriqué ou commercialisé par la société BASF, Colorstream fabriqué ou commercialisé par la société MERCK, Colorglitter fabriqué ou commercialisé par la société 3M, Chromaflair fabriqué ou commercialisé par la société FLEX, Xirallic et Xirona fabriqués ou commercialisés par la société MERCK et leurs mélanges.Preferably, the goniochromatic pigment with an interference multilayer structure according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of the following commercial goniochromatic pigments: Infinité Colors manufactured or marketed by the company SHISEIDO, Sicopearl Fantastico manufactured or marketed by the company BASF, Colorstream manufactured or marketed by MERCK, Colorglitter manufactured or marketed by 3M, Chromaflair manufactured or marketed by FLEX, Xirallic and Xirona manufactured or marketed by MERCK and their mixtures.
Par suite la structure multicouche peut être essentiellement minérale ou organique. Selon l'épaisseur de chacune des différentes couches, on obtient différentes couleurs.Consequently, the multilayer structure can be essentially mineral or organic. Depending on the thickness of each of the different layers, different colors are obtained.
Les pigments goniochromatiques à structure multicouche interférentielle selon l'invention sont notamment ceux décrits dans les documents suivants : US-A-3 438 796, EP-A-227423, US-A-5 135 812, EP-A-170439, EP-A-341002, US-A-4 930 866, US-A- 5 641 719, EP-A-472371 , EP-A-395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A- 768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154, EP-A-579091 , US-A-5 411 586, US-A- 5 364 467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4 225 031, WO 9517479 (BASF), DE-A-196 14 637, et leurs associations. Ils se présentent sous forme de paillettes, de couleur métallisée.The goniochromatic pigments with an interference multilayer structure according to the invention are in particular those described in the following documents: US-A-3,438,796, EP-A-227,423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170439, EP- A-341002, US-A-4 930 866, US-A- 5 641 719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A- 768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154, EP-A-579091, US-A-5 411 586, US-A- 5 364 467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4 225 031, WO 9517479 (BASF), DE-A-196 14 637, and their associations. They are in the form of glitter, metallic color.
Par exemple, la structure multicouche interférentielle est choisie dans le groupe constitué par les structures : AI/SiO2/AI/SiO2/AI ; Cr/MgF2/AI/MgF2/Cr MoS2/Siθ2/AI/SiO2/MoS2 ; Fe2θ3/Siθ2/AI/SiO2/Fe2θ3For example, the interference multilayer structure is chosen from the group consisting of the structures: AI / SiO 2 / AI / SiO 2 / AI; Cr / MgF 2 / AI / MgF 2 / Cr MoS 2 / Siθ2 / AI / SiO 2 / MoS2; Fe 2 θ3 / Siθ2 / AI / SiO 2 / Fe2θ3
Fe2θ3/Siθ2/Fe2θ3/Siθ2/Fe2θ3 ; MoS2/SiO2/mica-oxyde/SiO2/MoS2Fe2θ3 / Siθ2 / Fe2θ3 / Siθ2 / Fe 2 θ3; MoS2 / SiO 2 / mica-oxide / SiO 2 / MoS2
Fe2θ3/Siθ2/mica-oxyde/Siθ2/Fe2O et leurs associations.Fe 2 θ 3 / Siθ 2 / mica-oxide / Siθ 2 / Fe 2 O and their associations.
En général, la structure est composée d'une alternance de couches de bas indice optique et haut indice optique.In general, the structure is made up of alternating layers of low optical index and high optical index.
Les pigments goniochromatiques peuvent être présents dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 50% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,1 % à 30 % en poids, et mieux de 0,3 % à 20 % en poids.The goniochromatic pigments can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 20% by weight.
L'agent de coloration présent dans la composition selon l'invention est différent des pigments goniochromatiques décrits précédemment. L'agent de coloration ad- ditionnel peut être choisi parmi les pigments, les nacres, les colorants, et leurs mélanges.The coloring agent present in the composition according to the invention is different from the goniochromatic pigments described above. The coloring agent ad- can be chosen from pigments, nacres, dyes, and mixtures thereof.
L'agent de coloration peut comprendre au moins un pigment. Par pigments, il faut comprendre des particules de toute forme, blanches ou colorées, minérales ou organiques, insolubles dans le milieu physiologique, destinées à colorer la composition. Par nacres ou pigments nacrés, il faut comprendre des particules de toute forme irisées, notamment produites par certains mollusques dans leur coquille ou bien synthétisées.The coloring agent can comprise at least one pigment. The term “pigments” should be understood to mean particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition. By pearlescent or pearlescent pigments, it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent shape, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized.
Les pigments peuvent être présents dans la composition à raison de 0 à 30 % (notamment 0,01 % à 30 %) par rapport au poids de la composition, de préférence de 0,01 % à 15 % en poids, et mieux de 0,02 % à 5 % en poids.The pigments can be present in the composition in an amount of 0 to 30% (in particular 0.01% to 30%) relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0 0.02% to 5% by weight.
Les pigments peuvent être blancs ou colorés, minéraux et/ou organiques. On peut citer, parmi les pigments minéraux, le dioxyde de titane, éventuellement traité en surface, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cérium, ainsi que les oxydes de zinc, de fer (noir, jaune ou rouge) ou de chrome, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome et le bleu ferrique, les poudres métalliques comme la poudre d'aluminium, la poudre de cuivre et leurs mélanges.The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metallic powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder and their mixtures.
Parmi les pigments organiques, on peut citer le noir de carbone, les pigments de type D & C, et les laques à base de carmin de cochenille, de baryum, strontium, calcium, aluminium et leurs mélanges.Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum and their mixtures.
L'agent de coloration peut également comprendre au moins une nacre ou pigment nacré.The coloring agent can also comprise at least one mother-of-pearl or pearly pigment.
Les nacres peuvent être présentes dans la composition à raison de 0 à 25 % (notamment 0,01 % à 25 %) en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,01 % à 15 % en poids, et mieux de 0,02 % à 5 % en poids.The nacres can be present in the composition in a proportion of 0 to 25% (in particular 0.01% to 25%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.02% to 5% by weight.
Les pigments nacrés peuvent être choisis parmi les pigments nacrés blancs tels que le mica recouvert de titane, ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth, les pigments nacrés colorés tels que le mica titane recouvert avec des oxydes de fer, le mica titane re- couvert avec notamment du bleu ferrique ou de l'oxyde de chrome, le mica titane recouvert avec un pigment organique du type précité ainsi que les pigments nacrés à base d'oxychlorure de bismuth et leurs mélanges.The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, mica titanium coated with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.
La composition de l'invention peut, entre autre, comprendre des colorants solubles dans le milieu physiologique et en particulier des colorants liposolubles ou hydro- solubles. L'agent de coloration peut également comprendre une matière colorante choisie parmi les colorants hydrosolubles ou liposolubles ou bien encore les polymères colorants. La matière colorante peut être présente dans la composition en une teneur en matière active de colorant allant de 0 à 6 % (notamment 0,01 % à 6 %) en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 0,01 % à 3 % en poids.The composition of the invention may, inter alia, comprise dyes soluble in the physiological medium and in particular liposoluble or water-soluble dyes. The coloring agent can also comprise a coloring material chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes or alternatively coloring polymers. The coloring matter may be present in the composition in a content of active coloring matter ranging from 0 to 6% (in particular 0.01% to 6%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0 , 01% to 3% by weight.
Les colorants liposolubles sont par exemple l'huile de soja, le brun Soudan, le DC Yellow 11, le DC orange 5, le jaune quinoléine, le Rouge Soudan III (nom CTFA D&C red 17), la lutéine, le vert de quinizarine (nom CTFA DC green 6), le pourpre d'Alizurol SS (nom CTFA DC violet N°2), les dérivés caroténoïdes comme le lyco- pène, le béta-carotène, la bixine, la capsantéine, et/ou leurs mélanges.The liposoluble dyes are for example soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow, Sudan Red III (CTFA name D&C red 17), lutein, quinizarin green ( name CTFA DC green 6), Alizurol SS purple (name CTFA DC purple N ° 2), carotenoid derivatives such as lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin, capsantein, and / or mixtures thereof.
Parmi les colorants hydrosolubles, on peut citer les extraits de plantes tinctoriales, comme par exemple l'Aleurites Moluccana Willd, l'Alkanna Tinctoria Tausch, l'Areca Catechu L., l'Arrabidaea Chica E. et B., la Bixa Orellana L (rocou), la Butea Monosperma Lam, la Caesalpina Echinata Lam, la Caesalpina Sappan L., la Ca- lophyllum Inophyllum L., la Carthamus Tinctorius L., la Cassia Alata L., la Chrozo- phora Tinctoria L., La Crocus Sativus L., la Curcuma Longa L., la Diospyros Gilletii de Wild, l'Eclipta Prostrata L., la Gardénia Erubescens Stapf. et Hutch., la Gardénia Terniflora Schum. et Thonn., la Genipa Americana L., la Genipa Brasiliensis L., la Guibourtia Demeusei (Harms) J. Léon, lΗaematoxylon Campechianum L., l'Helianthus annuus, l'Humiria Balsamifera (Aubl.) St-Hil., l'Isatis Tinctoria L., le Mercurialis perenis, lé Monascus purpureus, le Monascus ruber, le Monascus pi- losus, la Morus Nigra L., la Picramnia Spruceana, la Pterocarpus Erinaceus Poir., la Pterocarpus Soyauxii Taub., la Rocella Tinctoria L., la Rothmannia Whitfieldii (Lindl.) Dand., la Schlegelia Violacea (Aubl.) Griseb., la Simira Tinctoria Aublet, la Stereospermum Kunthianum Cham., la Symphonia Globulifera L., -la Terminalia Catappa L., la Sorgho, l'Aronia melanocarpa, les naphtoquinone dont la lawsone, issue de la Lawsonia Inermis L. encore appelée henné ou de l'Impatiens Balsami- na, les extraits de bois rouge tels que décrits dans le document WO98/44902, le jus de betterave, le sel disodique de suschine, les anthocyanes comme les extraits de fruits rouges, la dihydrbxyacétone, les dérivés mono ou polycarbonylés tels que l'isatine, l'alloxane, la ninhydrine, le glycéraldéhyde, l'aldéhyde mésotartrique, les dérivés de pyrazoline-4,5-dione, et leurs mélanges, ces agents de coloration de la peau pouvant être associés ou non à des colorants directs ou des dérivés indoli- ques, et/ou leurs mélanges.Among the water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of extracts of dye plants, such as, for example, Aleurites Moluccana Willd, Alkanna Tinctoria Tausch, Areca Catechu L., Arrabidaea Chica E. and B., Bixa Orellana L (annatto), Butea Monosperma Lam, Caesalpina Echinata Lam, Caesalpina Sappan L., Calophyllum Inophyllum L., Carthamus Tinctorius L., Cassia Alata L., Chrozophora Tinctoria L., La Crocus Sativus L., Curcuma Longa L., Diospyros Gilletii de Wild, Eclipta Prostrata L., Gardenia Erubescens Stapf. and Hutch., Gardenia Terniflora Schum. and Thonn., Genipa Americana L., Genipa Brasiliensis L., Guibourtia Demeusei (Harms) J. Léon, lemataematoxylon Campechianum L., Helianthus annuus, Humiria Balsamifera (Aubl.) St-Hil., l 'Isatis Tinctoria L., Mercurialis perenis, Monascus purpureus, Monascus ruber, Monascus pi- losus, Morus Nigra L., Picramnia Spruceana, Pterocarpus Erinaceus Poir., Pterocarpus Soyauxii Taub., Rocella Tinctoria L ., Rothmannia Whitfieldii (Lindl.) Dand., Schlegelia Violacea (Aubl.) Griseb., Simira Tinctoria Aublet, Stereospermum Kunthianum Cham., Symphonia Globulifera L., -The Terminalia Catappa L., Sorghum, l 'Aronia melanocarpa, naphthoquinone including lawsone, from Lawsonia Inermis L. also called henna or Impatiens Balsamina, red wood extracts as described in document WO98 / 44902, beet juice, disodium salt of suschine, anthocyanins such as red fruit extracts, dihydrbxyacetone, d mono or polycarbonylated rivets such as isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, pyrazoline-4,5-dione derivatives, and mixtures thereof, these skin coloring agents being able to be combined or not with direct dyes or indole derivatives, and / or their mixtures.
Ces extraits de plantes tinctoriales peuvent se trouver sous forme de lyophilisât, de pâte, ou encore de solution : généralement, on broie les feuilles de la plante tinctoriale pour obtenir une poudre. On met cette poudre en solution dans une phase aqueuse durant quelques heures. Le mélange est ensuite centrifugé puis filtré. Le filtrat obtenu est congelé puis lyophilisé. L'agent de coloration peut également comprendre un polymère colorant, c'est-à- dire un polymère comportant au moins un groupement colorant organique. Le polymère colorant contient en général moins de 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total du polymère, de matière colorante.These extracts of dye plants can be in the form of lyophilisate, paste, or even a solution: generally, the leaves of the dye plant are ground to obtain a powder. This powder is dissolved in an aqueous phase for a few hours. The mixture is then centrifuged and then filtered. The filtrate obtained is frozen and then lyophilized. The coloring agent can also comprise a coloring polymer, that is to say a polymer comprising at least one organic coloring group. The coloring polymer generally contains less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer, of coloring matter.
Le polymère colorant peut être de toute nature chimique, notamment polyester, polyamide, polyuréthanne, polyacrylique, poly(méth)acrylique, polycarbonate, polymères d'origine naturelle comme les polymères cellulosiques ou de chitosane, ou leurs mélanges, et de préférence des polymères polyester ou polyuréthanne.The coloring polymer can be of any chemical nature, in particular polyester, polyamide, polyurethane, polyacrylic, poly (meth) acrylic, polycarbonate, polymers of natural origin such as cellulosic or chitosan polymers, or mixtures thereof, and preferably polyester polymers. or polyurethane.
Le polymère colorant peut comprendre un groupement colorant peut être greffé, notamment par liaison covalente, sur la chaîne du polymère, comme décrit dans les documents WO-A-96/29046, WO-A-92/01022, WO-A-90/07558, BE-A-609054.The coloring polymer may comprise a coloring group can be grafted, in particular by covalent bonding, onto the polymer chain, as described in documents WO-A-96/29046, WO-A-92/01022, WO-A-90 / 07558, BE-A-609054.
En particulier, le polymère colorant peut être un copolymère à base d'au moins deux monomères distincts dont l'un au moins est un monomère colorant organique.In particular, the coloring polymer can be a copolymer based on at least two distinct monomers, at least one of which is an organic coloring monomer.
Les monomères du polymère colorant peut être choisi parmi les anthraquinones, les méthines, bis-méthines, les aza-méthines, les arylidènes, les 3H-dibenzo[7,i-j] isoquinolines, les acides 2,5-diarylaminotéréphtaliques et leurs esters, les phta- loylphénothiazines, les phtaloylphénoxazines, les phtaloylacridone, les anthrapy- rimidines, les anthrapyrazoles, les phtalocyanines, les quinophtalones, les indo- phénols, perinones, les nitroarylamines, benzodifurane, les 2 H-1-benzopyran-2- one, les quinophtalones, les perylènes, les quinacridones, les triphénodioxazines, les fluoridines, les 4-amino-1 ,8-naphtalimides, les thioxanthrones, les benzanthro- nes, les indanthrones, les indigo, thioindigo, xanthène, acridine, azine, oxazine. Des monomères colorants sont notamment décrits dans les documents US-A-4,267,306 ; US-A-4,359,570 ; US-A-4,403,092 ; US-A-4,617,373 ; US-A-4,080,355 ; US- A-4,740,581 ; US-A-4,116,923 ; US-A-4,745,173 ; US-A-4,804,719, US-A-5, 194,463 ; US-A-5,804,719 ; WO-A-92/07913.The monomers of the coloring polymer can be chosen from anthraquinones, methines, bis-methines, aza-methines, arylidenes, 3H-dibenzo [7, ij] isoquinolines, 2,5-diarylaminoterephthalic acids and their esters, phthaloylphenothiazines, phthaloylphenoxazines, phthaloylacridone, anthrapyrimidines, anthrapyrazoles, phthalocyanines, quinophthalones, indophenols, perinones, nitroarylamines, benzodifuran, 2 H-1-benzopyran-2- one, quinophthalones , perylenes, quinacridones, triphenodioxazines, fluoridines, 4-amino-1, 8-naphthalimides, thioxanthrones, benzanthrones, indanthrones, indigo, thioindigo, xanthene, acridine, azine, oxazine. Dye monomers are described in particular in documents US-A-4,267,306; US-A-4,359,570; US-A-4,403,092; US-A-4,617,373; US-A-4,080,355; US-A-4,740,581; US-A-4,116,923; US-A-4,745,173; US-A-4,804,719, US-A-5, 194,463; US-A-5,804,719; WO-A-92/07913.
Des colorants polymériques sont notamment décrits dans les documents US-A-4,804,719 ; US-A-5,032,670 ; US-A-4,999,418 ; US-A-5, 106,942 ; US-A-5,030,708 ; US-A-5, 102,980 ; US-A-5,043,376, US-A-5, 194,463; WO-A-92/07913 ; WO-A-97/24102, dont le contenu est incorporé à titre de référence dans la présente demande.Polymeric dyes are described in particular in documents US-A-4,804,719; US-A-5,032,670; US-A-4,999,418; US-A-5, 106.942; US-A-5,030,708; US-A-5,102,980; US-A-5,043,376, US-A-5, 194,463; WO-A-92/07913; WO-A-97/24102, the content of which is incorporated by reference into the present application.
On utilise de préférence des polymères colorants sulfopolyesters tels que ceux décrits dans le document WO-A-97/24102. Les polymères colorants peuvent être présents dans la composition selon l'invention, en une teneur allant de 0 % à 50 % en poids (0,01 % à 50 %), par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 0,5 % à 25 % en poids, et mieux allant de 0,2 % à 20 % en poids.Preferably, sulfopolyester coloring polymers such as those described in document WO-A-97/24102 are used. The coloring polymers may be present in the composition according to the invention, in a content ranging from 0% to 50% by weight (0.01% to 50%), relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0 , 5% to 25% by weight, and better ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight.
Selon l'invention, les pigments goniochromatiques et l'agent de coloration additionnel sont présents dans la composition selon l'invention, selon un rapport pondéral pigments goniochromatiques / matière active de l'agent de coloration additionnel inférieur ou égal à 2, de préférence allant de 0,1 et 1 ,5, de façon encore plus préférée allant de 0,5 à 1,5, par exemple égal à environ 1 (c'est à dire allant de 0,9 à 1 ,1).According to the invention, the goniochromatic pigments and the additional coloring agent are present in the composition according to the invention, according to a weight ratio of goniochromatic pigments / active material of the additional coloring agent less than or equal to 2, preferably ranging from 0.1 and 1.5, even more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 1.5, for example equal to approximately 1 (that is to say ranging from 0.9 to 1.1).
En plus de l'agent de coloration additionnel, la composition selon l'invention peut contenir en outre des charges". Par charges, il faut comprendre des particules de toute forme, incolores ou blanches, minérales ou de synthèse, insolubles dans le milieu de la composition quelle que soit la température à laquelle la composition est fabriquée. Ces charges servent notamment à modifier la rhéologie ou la texture de la composition. Les charges peuvent être minérales ou organiques de toute forme, plaquettaires, spheriques ou oblongues, quelle que soit la forme cristallographique ( par exemple feuillet, cubique, hexagonale, orthorombique, etc) . On peut citer le talc, le mica, la silice, le kaolin, les poudres de polyamide (Nylon®) (Orgasol® de chez Atochem), de poly-β-alanine et de polyéthylène, les poudres de polymères de tétrafluoroéthy- lène (Téflon®), la lauroyl-lysine, l'amidon, le nitrure de bore, les microsphères creuses polymériques telles que celles de chlorure de polyvinylidène/acrylonitrile comme l'Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), de copolymères d'acide acrylique (Poly- trap® de la société Dow Corning) et les microbilles de résine de silicone (Tos- pearls® de Toshiba, par exemple), les particules de polyorganosiloxanes élasto- mères, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate et l'hydro-carbonate de magnésium, l'hydroxyapatite, les microsphères de silice creuses (Silica Beads® de Maprecos), les microcapsules de verre ou de céramique, les savons métalliques dérivés d'acides organiques carboxyliques ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, par exemple le stéarate de zinc, de magnésium ou de lithium, le laurate de zinc, le myristate de magnésium. Les charges peuvent être présentes à raison de 0 à 90 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, notamment de la composition de base et/ou de surface, de préférence 0,01 à 50 % en poids, et mieux de 0,02 % à 30 % en poids.In addition to the additional coloring agent, the composition according to the invention may also contain fillers " . By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any form, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.) Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- β-alanine and polyethylene, powders of polymers of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of chloru re of polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), of acrylic acid copolymers (Poly-trap® of the company Dow Corning) and microbeads of silicone resin (Tos-pearls® of Toshiba, for example) , elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules , metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, myristate magnesium. The fillers can be present in a proportion of 0 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular of the base and / or surface composition, preferably 0.01 to 50% by weight, and better still 0.02% to 30% by weight.
La composition de l'invention peut comprendre une phase particulaire comprenant les pigments et/ou les nacres et/ou les charges tels que définis précédemment, pouvant être présente à raison de 0 à 98 % (notamment 0,01 % à 98 %) du poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,01 % à 30 % et mieux de 0,02 % à 20 %. La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre un milieu cosmétique hydrophile ou un milieu lipophile.The composition of the invention may comprise a particulate phase comprising the pigments and / or the nacres and / or the fillers as defined above, which may be present at a rate of 0 to 98% (in particular 0.01% to 98%) of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% and better still from 0.02% to 20%. The composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic cosmetic medium or a lipophilic medium.
La composition peut comprendre de l'eau ou un mélange d'eau et de solvants or- ganiques hydrophiles comme les alcools et notamment des monoalcools inférieurs linéaires ou ramifiés ayant de 2 à 5 atomes de carbone comme l'éthanol, l'isopro- panol ou le n-propanol, les polyols comme la glycérine, la diglycérine, le propy- lène glycol, le sorbitol, le penthylène glycol, les polyéthylène glycols. La phase hydrophile peut, en outre, contenir des éthers en C2 et des aldéhydes en C2-C hy- drophiles. L'eau ou le mélange d'eau et de solvants organiques hydrophiles peut être présent dans la composition selon l'invention, ou l'une des compositions de base et ou de surface, en une teneur allant de 0 % à 90 % (notamment 0,1 % à 90 %) en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence de 0 % à 60 % en poids (notamment 0,1 % à 60 % en poids).The composition can comprise water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents such as alcohols and in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols such as glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols. The hydrophilic phase can, in addition, contain C 2 ethers and C 2 -C hydrophilic aldehydes. The water or the mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the composition according to the invention, or one of the base and / or surface compositions, in a content ranging from 0% to 90% (in particular 0.1% to 90%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0% to 60% by weight (in particular 0.1% to 60% by weight).
La composition peut également comprendre une phase grasse, notamment constituée de corps gras liquides à température ambiante (25°C en général) et/ou de corps gras solides à température ambiante tels que les cires, les corps gras pâteux, les gommes et leurs mélanges. Cette phase grasse peut, en outre, contenir des solvants organiques lipophiles.The composition may also comprise a fatty phase, in particular consisting of fatty substances liquid at room temperature (25 ° C. in general) and / or fatty substances solid at ambient temperature such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures. . This fatty phase can, in addition, contain lipophilic organic solvents.
Comme corps gras liquides à température ambiante, appelés souvent huiles, utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer : les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale telles que le perhydrosqualène ; les huiles hydrocarbonées végétales telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque, ou encore les huiles de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, d'abricot, de macadamia, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique, l'huile de jojo- ba, de beurre de karité ; les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique tels que les huiles de paraffine et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les po- lydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que te parléam ; les esters et les éthers de synthèse notamment d'acides gras comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle, le stéarate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme Pisostéaryl lactate, Poctylhydroxystéarate, l'hydroxystéarate d'octyldodécyle, le diisostéarylmalate, le citrate de triisocétyle, des heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; des esters de polyol comme le diocta- noate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol, le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol ; des alcools gras ayant de 12 à 26 atomes de carbone comme l'octyldodécanol, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2- hexyldécanol, le 2-undécylpentadécanol, l'alcool oléique ; les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées ; les huiles siliconées comme les po- lyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non, linéaires ou cycliques, liquides ou pâ- teux à température ambiante comme les cyclométhicones, les diméthicones, comportant éventuellement un groupement phényle, comme les phényl triméthicones, les phényltriméthylsiloxydiphényl siloxanes, les diphénylméthyldiméthyl- trisiloxanes, les diphényl diméthicones, les phényl diméthicones, les polyméthyl- phényl siloxanes ; leurs mélanges.As fatty substances liquid at room temperature, often called oils, which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or even sunflower, corn, soybean, grape seed, sesame oils, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as te parlam; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, erucate octyl-2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisoketyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils such as polyethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or not, linear or cyclic, liquid or pale at room temperature such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones, optionally comprising a phenyl group, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxanes, diphenylmethyldimethyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes; their mixtures.
Ces huiles peuvent être présentes en une teneur allant de 0,01 à 90 %, et mieux de 0,1 à 85 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.These oils can be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90%, and better still from 0.1 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l'invention peut également comprendre un ou plusieurs solvants organiques, cosmétiquement acceptables (tolérance, toxicologie et toucher acceptables). Ces solvants peuvent être présents en une teneur allant de 0 à 90 % et mieux de 0 à 60% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition et mieux de 0,1 à 30 %.The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more organic solvents, cosmetically acceptable (tolerance, toxicology and touch acceptable). These solvents can be present in a content ranging from 0 to 90% and better still from 0 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 30%.
Comme solvants utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer les esters de l'acide acétique comme l'acétate de méthyle, d'éthyle, de butyle, d'amyle, de méthoxy-2-éthyle, l'acétate d'isopropyle; les cétones comme la méthy- léthylcétone, la méthylisobutylcétone ; les hydrocarbures comme le toluène, le xy- lène, l'hexane, l'heptane ; les aldéhydes ayant de 5 à 10 atomes de carbone ; les éthers ayant au moins 3 atomes de carbones ; et leurs mélanges.As solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned the esters of acetic acid such as methyl, ethyl, butyl, amyl, 2-methoxy-ethyl acetate, acetate d isopropyl; ketones such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone; hydrocarbons such as toluene, xylene, hexane, heptane; aldehydes having 5 to 10 carbon atoms; ethers having at least 3 carbon atoms; and their mixtures.
La composition de l'invention peut en outre comprendre, avantageusement un corps gras solide ou pâteux à température ambiante, comme les gommes ou les cires. Les cires peuvent être hydrocarbonées, fluorées et/ou siliconées et être d'origine végétale, minérale, animale et/ou synthétique. En particulier, les cires présentent une température de fusion supérieure à 25 °C et mieux supérieure à 45 °C.The composition of the invention can also advantageously comprise a solid or pasty fatty substance at room temperature, such as gums or waxes. The waxes can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point above 25 ° C and better still above 45 ° C.
Comme cire utilisable dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer la cire d'abeilles, la cire de Camauba ou dé Candellila, la paraffine, les cires microcristallines, la cérésine ou l'ozokérite ; les cires synthétiques comme les cires de polyéthylène ou de Fischer Tropsch, les cires de silicones comme les alkyl ou alkoxy-diméticone ayant de 16 à 45 atomes de carbone.As wax which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of beeswax, Camauba or Candellila wax, paraffin, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene or Fischer Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicone having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms.
Les gommes sont généralement des polydiméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) à haut poids moléculaire ou des gommes de cellulose ou des polysaccharides et les corps pâteux sont généralement des composés hydrocarbonés comme les lanolines et leurs dérivés ou encore des PDMS.The gums are generally high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or cellulose gums or polysaccharides and the pasty bodies are generally hydrocarbon compounds such as lanolines and their derivatives or PDMS.
La nature et la quantité des corps solides sont fonction des propriétés mécaniques et des textures recherchées. A titre indicatif, la composition peut contenir de 0,01 à 50 % en poids de cires, par rapport au poids total de la composition et mieux de 1 à 30 % en poids.The nature and quantity of the solid bodies depend on the mechanical properties and the desired textures. As an indication, the composition may contain 0.01 to 50% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition and better still from 1 to 30% by weight.
La composition selon l'invention peut se présenter notamment sous forme de sus- pension, de dispersion, de solution, de gel, d'émulsion, notamment émulsion huile- dans-eau (H/E) ou eau-dans-huile (E/H), ou multiple (E/H/E ou polyol/H/E ou H/E/H), sous forme de crème, de pâte, de mousse, de dispersion de vésicules notamment de lipides ioniques ou non, de lotion biphasé ou multiphase, de spray, de poudre, de pâte, notamment de pâte souple (notamment de pâte ayant de viscosi- té dynamique à 25°C de l'ordre de 0,1 à 40 Pa.s sous une vitesse de cisaillement de 200 s"1, après 10 minutes de mesure en géométrie cône/plan). La composition peut être à phase continue organique, notamment anhydre.The composition according to the invention may be in particular in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a solution, a gel, an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (E) emulsion. / H), or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), in the form of cream, paste, foam, vesicle dispersion, in particular of ionic lipids or not, of lotion biphasic or multiphase, spray, powder, paste, in particular flexible paste (in particular paste having a dynamic viscosity at 25 ° C of the order of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s under a shear rate of 200 s "1 , after 10 minutes of measurement in cone / plane geometry). The composition may be in an organic continuous phase, in particular anhydrous.
L'homme du métier pourra choisir la forme galénique appropriée, ainsi que sa mé- thode de préparation, sur la base de ses connaissances générales, en tenant compte d'une part de la nature des constituants utilisés, notamment de leur solubilité dans le support, et d'autre part de l'application envisagée pour la composition.Those skilled in the art can choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its preparation method, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support. , and on the other hand of the application envisaged for the composition.
La composition selon l'invention peut également contenir des ingrédients couram- ment utilisés en cosmétique, tels que les vitamines, les épaississants (notamment les argiles éventuellement modifiées), les oligo-éléments, les adoucissants, les séquestrants, les parfums, les agents alcalinisants ou acidifiants, les conservateurs, les filtres UV, et leurs mélanges.The composition according to the invention can also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners (in particular possibly modified clays), trace elements, softeners, sequestrants, perfumes, basifying agents. or acidifiers, preservatives, UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
Bien entendu, l'homme du métier veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés complémentaires, et/ou leur quantité, de manière telles que les propriétés avantageuses de la composition selon l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'adjonction envisagée.Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, affected by the planned addition.
La composition de l'invention peut être obtenue selon les procédés de préparation classiquement utilisés en cosmétique ou en dermatologie.The composition of the invention can be obtained according to the preparation methods conventionally used in cosmetics or in dermatology.
Les exemples de compositions ci-après sont donnés à titre illustratif et sans caractère limitatif.The examples of compositions below are given by way of illustration and without limitation.
Exemple 1 :Example 1:
On a préparé un fond de teint comprenant :A foundation was prepared comprising:
- Octyl-palmitate 52,4%- Octyl palmitate 52.4%
- Cire microcristalline 12,1% -.dimethicone 300 cSt 0,3%- Microcrystalline wax 12.1% -.dimethicone 300 cSt 0.3%
- Copolymères acrylates (Expancel ®) 1 ,5% - Poudre de nylon 1-2 13,0%- Acrylate copolymers (Expancel ®) 1.5% - Nylon 1-2 powder 13.0%
- Pigments goniochromatiques vendus sous la dénomination "SICOPEARL" par la société BASF 10,0%- Goniochromatic pigments sold under the name "SICOPEARL" by the company BASF 10.0%
- Oxyde de fer jaune 0,47% - Oxyde de fer rouge 0,40%- Yellow iron oxide 0.47% - Red iron oxide 0.40%
- Oxyde de fer noir 0,18%- 0.18% black iron oxide
- dioxyde de titane 9,45%- 9.45% titanium dioxide
Le fond de tient appliqué sur le visage confère un maquillage d'aspect naturel avec des effets de sculpture du visage.The hold applied to the face gives a natural-looking makeup with sculpting effects on the face.
Exemple 2 :Example 2:
On a préparé un fond de teint comprenantWe prepared a foundation including
- Octyl-palmitate 52,4%- Octyl palmitate 52.4%
- Cire microcristalline 12,1%- Microcrystalline wax 12.1%
- dimethicone 300 cSt 0,3%- dimethicone 300 cSt 0.3%
- Copolymères acrylates (Expancel ®) 1 ,5%- Acrylate copolymers (Expancel ®) 1.5%
- Poudre de nylon 1 -2 13,0%- Nylon powder 1 -2 13.0%
- Pigments goniochromatiques vendus sous la dénomination- Goniochromatic pigments sold under the name
"SICOPEARL" par la société BASF 12,0%"SICOPEARL" by BASF 12.0%
- Oxyde de fer jaune 0,38%- Yellow iron oxide 0.38%
- Oxyde de fer rouge 0,15%- 0.15% red iron oxide
- Oxyde de fer noir 0,32%- Black iron oxide 0.32%
- dioxyde de titane 7,65%- titanium dioxide 7.65%
Le fond de tient appliqué sur le visage confère un maquillage d'aspect naturel avec des effets de sculpture du visage. The hold applied to the face gives a natural-looking makeup with sculpting effects on the face.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, des pigments goniochromatiques et un agent de coloration additionnel, caractérisée en ce que les pigments goniochromatiques et l'agent de coloration additionnel sont présents dans la composition selon un rapport pondéral pigments goniochromatiques / matière active de l'agent de coloration additionnel allant de 0,1 à 2.1. Composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, goniochromatic pigments and an additional coloring agent, characterized in that the goniochromatic pigments and the additional coloring agent are present in the composition according to a goniochromatic pigment / active material weight ratio of the additional coloring agent ranging from 0.1 to 2.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1. telle que les pigments goniochromatiques sont des pigments à structure multicouche interférentielle comportant au moins deux couches, chaque couche étant réalisée en au moins un matériau choisi dans le groupe constitué par les matériaux suivants : MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, Si02, Ge, Te, Fe2O3) Pt, Va, AI2O3, MgO, Y203, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, Ti02, Ag, Al, Au, Cr, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolithe, alliages, poly- mères et leurs associations.2. Composition according to claim 1. such that the goniochromatic pigments are pigments with an interference multilayer structure comprising at least two layers, each layer being made of at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF 2 , CeF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, Si, Si0 2 , Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3) Pt, Va, AI 2 O 3 , MgO, Y 2 0 3 , S 2 O 3 , SiO, HfO 2 , ZrO 2 , CeO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , Ta 2 O 5 , Ti0 2 , Ag, Al, Au, Cr, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2 , cryolite, alloys, polymers and their associations.
3. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, telle que les pigments goniochromatiques sont des pigments à structure multicouche interférentielle choisie dans le groupe constitué par les structures : AI/SiO2/AI/SiO2/AI ; Cr/MgF2/AI/MgF2/Cr ; MoS2/SiO2/AI/SiO2/MoS2 ; Fe2θ3/SiO2/AI/ SiO2/Fe203 ; Fe2θ3/Siθ2/Fe2θ3/SiO2/Fe2θ3 ; MoS2/SiO2/mica-oxyde/SiO2/MoS2 ; Fe2θ3/SiO2/mica-oxyde/SiO2/Fe2O3et leurs associations.3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the goniochromatic pigments are pigments with an interference multilayer structure chosen from the group consisting of the structures: AI / SiO 2 / AI / SiO 2 / AI; Cr / MgF 2 / AI / MgF 2 / Cr; MoS 2 / SiO 2 / AI / SiO 2 / MoS 2 ; Fe 2 θ 3 / SiO 2 / AI / SiO 2 / Fe 2 0 3 ; Fe 2 θ3 / Siθ2 / Fe 2 θ3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 θ3; MoS 2 / SiO 2 / mica-oxide / SiO 2 / MoS 2 ; Fe 2 θ 3 / SiO 2 / mica-oxide / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 and their associations.
4. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle que les pigments goniochromatiques sont présents en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the goniochromatic pigments are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle que les pigments goniochromatiques sont présents en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the goniochromatic pigments are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle que les pigments goniochromatiques sont présents en une teneur allant de 0,3 % à 20 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the goniochromatic pigments are present in a content ranging from 0.3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle que l'agent de coloration additionnel est choisi dans le groupe formé par les pigments, les nacres, les colorants hydrosolubles ou liposolubles, les polymères colorants et leurs mélanges.7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the additional coloring agent is chosen from the group formed by pigments, nacres, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, coloring polymers and their mixtures.
8. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle que l'agent de coloration additionnel comprend au moins un pigment choisi parmi le dioxyde de titane, les oxydes de zirconium, les oxydes de cérium, les oxydes de zinc, les oxy- des de fer, les oxydes de chrome, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome, le bleu ferrique, la poudre d'aluminium, la poudre de cuivre, le noir de carbone, les pigments de type D & C, et les laques à base de carmin de cochenille, de baryum, strontium, calcium, aluminium et leurs mélanges.8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the additional coloring agent comprises at least one pigment chosen from titanium dioxide, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, zinc oxides, oxy- iron, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, carbon black, pigments of type D & C, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum and their mixtures.
9. Composition selon la revendication 7 ou 8, telle que les pigments sont présents en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition.9. Composition according to claim 7 or 8, such that the pigments are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
10. Composition selon l'une des revendications 7 à 9, telle que les pigments sont présents en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition.10. Composition according to one of claims 7 to 9, such that the pigments are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
11. Composition selon l'une des revendications 7 à 10, telle que les pigments sont présents en une teneur allant de 0,02 % à 5 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition,11. Composition according to one of claims 7 to 10, such that the pigments are present in a content ranging from 0.02% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition,
12 Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, telle que l'agent de coloration comprend au moins une nacre choisie parmi le mica recouvert de titane ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth, le mica titane recouvert avec des oxydes de fer, le mica titane recouvert avec du bleu ferrique ou de l'oxyde de chrome, le mica titane recouvert avec un pigment organique, les pigments nacrés à base d'oxychlorure de bismuth et leurs mélanges.12 Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the coloring agent comprises at least one mother-of-pearl selected from mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with iron oxides, mica titanium coated with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment, pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.
13. Composition selon la revendication 12, telle que les nacres sont présentes en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 25 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition.13. Composition according to claim 12, such that the nacres are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
14. Composition selon la revendication 12 ou 13, telle que les nacres sont présen- tes en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition.14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, such that the nacres are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
15. Composition selon l'une des revendications 12 à 14, telle que les nacres sont présentes en une teneur allant de 0,02 % à 5 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition.15. Composition according to one of claims 12 to 14, such that the nacres are present in a content ranging from 0.02% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
16. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle que l'agent de coloration comprend une matière colorante choisie parmi les colorants hydrosolubles ou liposolubles et les polymères colorants, et est présent en une teneur en matière active de colorant allant de 0,01 % à 6 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. 16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the coloring agent comprises a coloring material chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes and coloring polymers, and is present in a dye active material content ranging from 0.01%. at 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition 'selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes telle que les pigments goniochromatiques et l'agent de coloration additionnel sont présents selon un rapport pondéral particules interférentielles / matière active de l'agent de coloration additionnel allant de 0,1 à 1 ,5.17. Composition ' according to any one of the preceding claims, such that the goniochromatic pigments and the additional coloring agent are present in a weight ratio of interference particles / active material of the additional coloring agent ranging from 0.1 to 1, 5.
18. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, telle que les pigments goniochromatiques et l'agent de coloration additionnel sont présents selon un rapport pondéral pigments goniochromatiques / matière active de l'agent de coloration additionnel allant de 0,5 à 1 ,5.18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, such that the goniochromatic pigments and the additional coloring agent are present in a weight ratio of goniochromatic pigments / active material of the additional coloring agent ranging from 0.5 to 1, 5.
19. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, telle que les pigments goniochromatiques et l'agent de coloration additionnel sont présents selon un rapport pondéral pigments goniochromatiques / matière active de l'agent de coloration additionnel allant de 0,9 à 1 ,1.19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, such that the goniochromatic pigments and the additional coloring agent are present in a weight ratio of goniochromatic pigments / active material of the additional coloring agent ranging from 0.9 to 1, 1.
20. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle qu'elle comprend un milieu cosmétique hydrophile ou lipophile.20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims as it comprises a hydrophilic or lipophilic cosmetic medium.
21. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle qu'elle com- prend de l'eau ou un mélange d'eau et de solvant organique hydrophile.21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that it comprises water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvent.
22. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle qu'elle comprend une phase grasse.22. Composition according to one of the preceding claims as it comprises a fatty phase.
23. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle qu'elle comprend un ingrédient choisi parmi les huiles, les cires, les corps gras pâteux, les gommes, et leurs mélanges.23. Composition according to one of the preceding claims as it comprises an ingredient chosen from oils, waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums, and their mixtures.
24. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle qu'elle contient un solvant organique.24. Composition according to one of the preceding claims as it contains an organic solvent.
25. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes telle qu'elle comprend un ingrédient cosmétique choisi dans le groupe formé par les charges, les vitamines, les épaississants, les oligo-éléments, les adoucissants, les séques- trants, les parfums, les agents alcalinisants ou acidifiants, les conservateurs, et leurs mélanges.25. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that it comprises a cosmetic ingredient chosen from the group formed by fillers, vitamins, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, dryers, perfumes, basifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.
26. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle se présente sous la forme de fond de teint, de produit anti-cernes, de fard à joues ou à paupières, ou de produit de maquillage du corps.26. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of foundation, concealer, blush or eyeshadow, or body makeup product.
27. Procédé cosmétique de maquillage de la peau tel que l'on applique sur la peau une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 26. 27. Cosmetic method for making up the skin such that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26 is applied to the skin.
28. Support maquillé comprenant un maquillage susceptible d'être obtenu selon le procédé de maquillage conforme à la revendication 27 et appliqué sur ledit support, ledit support étant choisi parmi les pastilles ou les patchs adhérents sur la peau. 28. Make-up support comprising a make-up capable of being obtained according to the make-up method according to claim 27 and applied to said support, said support being chosen from pastilles or patches adhering to the skin.
EP02774899A 2001-09-03 2002-09-03 Foundation composition containing interference pigments Withdrawn EP1427382A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0111374A FR2829022B1 (en) 2001-09-03 2001-09-03 FOUNDATION COMPOSITION COMPRISING INTERFERENTIAL PIGMENTS
FR0111374 2001-09-03
US32643101P 2001-10-03 2001-10-03
US326431P 2001-10-03
PCT/FR2002/003002 WO2003020225A1 (en) 2001-09-03 2002-09-03 Foundation composition containing interference pigments

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