EP1423148A2

EP1423148A2 - Cosmetic and dermatological light-protective formulation with a content of water-soluble uv-filter substances and alkylnaphthalates

Info

Publication number: EP1423148A2
Application number: EP02772215A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jens Schulz; Volker Wendel
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-08-29
Filing date: 2002-08-28
Publication date: 2004-06-02
Also published as: DE10141478A1; WO2003020317A3; WO2003020317A2; US20040247540A1

Abstract

Light-protective cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterised in comprising (c) at least one water-soluble UV-filter substance and (d) at least one dialkyl naphthalate with structural formula (I),where R<1> and R<2> are independently selected from the group of branched and non-branched alkyl groups with 6 to 24 carbon atoms and use thereof.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

description

Cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations containing water-soluble UV filter substances and alkyl naphthalates

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. Depending on their respective wavelengths, the rays have various effects on the skin organ: the so-called UV-C radiation with a wavelength that is less than 290 nm is absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere and therefore has no physiological significance. In contrast, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UV-B range, cause an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns. The narrower range is around the maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight 308 nm specified.

Numerous compounds are known for protection against UV-B radiation, which are, for example, derivatives of 3-benzyiide camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and triazine.

It has long been erroneously assumed that long-wave UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm has only a negligible biological effect. In the meantime, however, numerous studies have shown that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin. The damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be increased by UV-A radiation.

T: \ My Documents \ Rabanus \ 201-228.doc It has been proven, among other things, that even UV-A radiation is sufficient under normal everyday conditions to damage collagen and elastin fibers, which are essential for the structure and firmness of the skin, within a short period of time. This leads to chronic light-induced skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely. The clinical appearance of skin aged by light includes, for example, wrinkles and fine lines and an irregular, furrowed relief. Furthermore, the areas affected by light-induced skin aging can have irregular pigmentation Brown spots, keratoses and even carcinomas or malignant melanomas are possible, and skin that has aged prematurely due to everyday UV exposure is also characterized by less activity of the Langerhans cells and a mild, chronic inflammation.

About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays. While UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and time of day or latitude), UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, irrespective of the time of year, day or geographical factors. At the same time, the majority of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.

It is therefore of fundamental importance that cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations offer adequate protection against both UV-B and UV-A radiation.

In general, the light absorption behavior of light protection filter substances is very well known and documented, especially since in most industrialized countries there are positive lists for the use of such substances, which apply very strict standards to the documentation.

However, the use concentration of known light protection filter substances known as solids is often limited, especially in combination with other substances to be dissolved. It therefore presents certain formulation difficulties to achieve higher sun protection factors or UV-A protection performance. Advantageous UV-A filter substances are e.g. B. dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), which Vaudan of Gi- under the trademark Parsol ^® 1789 and from Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

The main disadvantage of all dibenzoylmethane derivatives absorbing in the UV range is a certain instability towards UV radiation, so that these components are decomposed to inactive products under the influence of UV and are no longer available for UV absorption. Preparations of the prior art containing these substances therefore advantageously also contain certain UV stabilizers, such as, for example, ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene) or 4-methylbenzylidene camphor.

It was an object of the present invention to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art and to obtain preparations in a simple manner which are distinguished by high UV, in particular UV-A, protection protection and in which the use of conventional UV stabilizers can be dispensed with.

The sunburn or the light erythema are the acute manifestations of the influence of light. In addition to the effects of UV rays already described, the subsequent reaction of the skin also leads to reduced sebum production and drying of the skin. In order to alleviate and care for these phenomena, the prior art knows products which are applied after sunbathing and which usually contain special active ingredients, such as, for example, ■ moisturizing and moisturizing agents,

■ anti-inflammatory and cooling substances,

■ locally anesthetic substances and / or

■ disinfectants to prevent possible skin infections.

These so-called aftersun or apres-soleil preparations are intended to cool the skin after sunbathing and to improve its moisturizing ability, whereby the imparting of the cooling effect plays a central role. However, the state of the art lacks products that protect the skin from drying out during UV radiation and provide sufficient care. It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic or dermatological preparations which act as sunscreens, characterized in that they

(a) at least one water-soluble UV filter substance and

(b) at least one dialkyl naphthalate, which is characterized by the structural formula

distinguished, wherein R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

For the purposes of the present invention, the preparations can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, one or more water phases and, for example, in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions , Such formulations may preferably also be a microemulsion, a solid emulsions (i.e. an emulsion which is stabilized by solids, e.g. a Pickering emulsion), a sprayable emulsion or a hydrodispersion.

The preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect, which are not limited to a restricted choice of raw materials. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable to serve as the basis for forms of preparation with a variety of uses. The preparations according to the invention show very good sensory and cosmetic properties, such as, for example, the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, and are furthermore distinguished by very good light protection effectiveness and, at the same time, excellent skin care data. The invention therefore also relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations which have a light protection effect, characterized in that they contain synergistic combinations of substances

(a) at least one water-soluble UV filter substance and

characterized in which R ¹ and R ² are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, the UV protection performance, in particular the UV-A protection performance, of these preparations being higher than the same preparations which contain no substances according to (b).

The UV protection performance of sunscreens or the UV filters on which they are based is generally determined in biological effectiveness tests under standardized conditions. In the context of the present invention, “UV protective power” means both the protective power against UV-A radiation and against UV-B radiation.

A measure of the UV protection power in the sense of the present invention is, for example, the sun protection factor (SPF or SPF) or also IPD values and the like.

The sun protection factor (SPF, often also called SPF (sun protection factor)) indicates the prolongation of sun exposure, which is made possible by using the sunscreen. It is the quotient of erythema threshold time with sunscreen and erythema threshold time without sunscreen. The IPD method (IPD ≡ immediate pigment darkening) is usually used to test UV-A protection. Similar to the determination of the sun protection factor, a value is determined that indicates how much longer the skin protected with the light protection agent can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same pigmentation occurs as for the unprotected skin.

Another test method that is established throughout Europe is the Australian standard AS / NZS 2604: 1997. The absorption of the preparation is measured in the UV-A range. To meet the standard, the preparation must absorb at least 90% of the UV-A radiation in the range from 320 to 360 nm.

The invention also relates to the use of one or more dialkylnaphthalates, which are distinguished by the structural formula

distinguish in which R ¹ and R ² are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, for stabilizing dibenzoylmethane derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations which contain at least one water-soluble UV filter substance, against which by UV radiation induced decomposition.

It was particularly surprising that when using the present invention, the use of further UV stabilizers, in particular the use of ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene) or 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, can be dispensed with entirely ,

Advantageous water-soluble UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated UV filters, in particular: Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid, which is distinguished by the following structure:

and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis sodium salt

with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP.

Further advantageous sulfonated UV filters in the context of the present invention are the salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself

with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann & Reimer.

Further advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances within the meaning of the present invention are, for. B. sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof. The total amount of one or more water-soluble UV filter substances in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, depending on - Weil based on the total weight of the preparations.

Dialkylnaphthalates for which R ¹ and / or R ^{2 are} branched alkyl groups having 6 to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. Very particularly preferred in the sense of the present invention is diethylhexyl naphthalate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Hallbrite TQ ™ from CP Hall or Corapan TQ ™ from H&R.

According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously contain 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, of one or more dialkylnaphthalates.

The cosmetic or dermatological light protection formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for cosmetic or dermatological light protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

Depending on their structure, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can be used for the purposes of the present invention, for example as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, day or night cream, etc. It is possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, Anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, poly - oils, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ™), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, Benzoic acid and the like. Usually, the preservation system according to the invention advantageously also includes preservation aids, such as octoxyglycerol, glycine soy, etc.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, eg. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation. If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-Biotiή, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitin, camosin, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine.

Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, io ^" kale Hyper-, hypo- and incorrect pigmentations (eg age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracks) etc. They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

The water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having low C Number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. Moisturizers can also be used with preference.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also known as trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, create or enhance a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9). The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24 , in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

According to the invention are also advantageous. B. natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyltrimetic halosynthesis, as well as synthetic, such as. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.

It is further preferred pentylglykoldiheptanoat the one or more oil components from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / Diglyceryl- succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, Cι _2-13 alkyl lactate, di-Cι ι _2- ₃ - Alkyl tartrate, tri-isostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention comprises _2- ι ₅ -alkyl or a content of Cι consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which the represent the most significant compounds in terms of quantity in this group and are characterized by the following structural formula

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, from Th. Goldschmidt under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethanes), z. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.

Accordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The Formulations, although not necessary, may also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or oil phase.

The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature and / or one or more silicone derivatives as a further phase. Oil-free formulations in the sense of the present invention can advantageously also contain other lipophilic components - such as lipophilic active ingredients.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethyl hexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamate isopentyl ester cinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate).

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO) ,

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared using a thin, hydrophilic method using methods known per se and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer. For the purposes of the present invention, the various surface coatings can also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Other advantageous pigments are latex particles. Latex particles which are advantageous according to the invention are those described in the following documents: US Pat. No. 5,663,213 and EP 0 761 201. Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and, for. B. are available under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere" from Rohm & Haas.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.

2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: methylene bis-benzotriazole methylbutylphenol) which under the

Trade name Tinosorb® S is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;

• Dioctylbutylamidot azon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ) (INCI: bisoctyltriazole), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH. Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor; ■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

^■ as well as UV filters bound to polymers.

A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539th

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention, further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [ for example the 4- (tert-butyl) - 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, each individually or in any combination with one another.

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetics - see preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

It may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVPΛ A (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc.

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations. Examples:

1. O / W sun protection emulsions

2. Hydrodispersions

Claims

claims:

1. Sunscreen-effective cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized in that they

(a) at least one water-soluble UV filter substance and

characterized in which R ¹ and R ² are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations effective against sun protection, characterized in that they contain synergistic combinations of substances from

(a) at least one water-soluble UV filter substance and

distinguished in which R ¹ and R ² are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, the UV protection performance, in particular the UV-A protection performance, of these preparations being higher than the same preparations which contain no substances according to (b).

3. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the content of one or more dialkyl naphthalates in the range from 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, very particularly preferably 0, 5 to 15 wt .-% is selected, based on the total weight of the preparation.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one further UV filter substance selected from the group triazines, benzotriazoles and organic and / or inorganic pigments.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one further UV-A filter substance and / or a broadband filter, selected from the group dibenzoylmethane derivatives [in particular the 4- (tert-butyl) - 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the further filter substances each can be present individually or in any combination with one another.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one flavone glycoside, in particular α-glucosylrutin, and / or vitamin E and / or its derivatives.

7. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding claims for moisturizing the skin.

8. Use of preparations according to one of claims 1 to 6 for protection against light-induced skin aging.

9. Use of one or more dialkylnaphthalates, which are characterized by the structural formula

distinguish in which R ¹ and R ² are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, for stabilizing dibenzoylmethane derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations which contain at least one water-soluble UV filter substance, against which UV- Radiation induced decomposition.