EP1480607A2 - Cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations with a content of hydroxybenzophenones and alkylnaphthalates - Google Patents

Cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations with a content of hydroxybenzophenones and alkylnaphthalates

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Publication number
EP1480607A2
EP1480607A2 EP02802639A EP02802639A EP1480607A2 EP 1480607 A2 EP1480607 A2 EP 1480607A2 EP 02802639 A EP02802639 A EP 02802639A EP 02802639 A EP02802639 A EP 02802639A EP 1480607 A2 EP1480607 A2 EP 1480607A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
preparations
cosmetic
group
substances
branched
Prior art date
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EP02802639A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Anja Göppel
Jens Schulz
Volker Wendel
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Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Publication of EP1480607A2 publication Critical patent/EP1480607A2/en
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • Cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations containing hydroxybenzophenones and alkyl naphthalates containing hydroxybenzophenones and alkyl naphthalates
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations.
  • the damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known.
  • the rays have different effects on the skin organ:
  • the so-called UV-C radiation with a wavelength that is less than 290 nm is absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere and therefore has no physiological significance.
  • rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UV-B range cause an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
  • the narrower range is around the maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight 308 nm specified.
  • Numerous compounds are known for protection against UV-B radiation, which are, for example, derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and triazine.
  • UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin.
  • the damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be increased by UV-A radiation. It has been proven, among other things, that even UV-A radiation is sufficient under normal everyday conditions to damage collagen and elastin fibers within a short time. conditions that are essential for the structure and firmness of the skin. This leads to chronic light-induced skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely.
  • the clinical appearance of skin aged by light includes, for example, wrinkles and fine lines and an irregular, furrowed relief. Furthermore, the areas affected by light-induced skin aging can have irregular pigmentation Brown spots, keratoses and even carcinomas or malignant melanomas are possible, and skin that has aged prematurely due to everyday UV exposure is also characterized by less activity of the Langerhans cells and a mild, chronic inflammation.
  • UV-A radiation About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays. While UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and time of day or latitude), UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, irrespective of the time of year, day or geographical factors. At the same time, the major part of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the layer on the back.
  • UV-A filter substances are hydroxybenzophenones, in particular the 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which has the chemical structural formula
  • UV filter substances must be in dissolved form.
  • Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by good sun protection properties. Their main disadvantage, however, is that they are poorly soluble in common oil components.
  • a disadvantage of the prior art is accordingly that only comparatively low light protection factors could generally be achieved with these filter substances, since their solubility or dispersibility in the formulations is too low, i. H. it is difficult or difficult to incorporate them into such formulations in a satisfactory manner.
  • R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • the preparations can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, one or more water phases and, for example, in the form of W / O-, O / W-, W / O / W- or O / W / O- Emulsions are present.
  • Such formulations may preferably also be a microemulsion, a solid emulsions (i.e. an emulsion which is stabilized by solids, e.g. a Pickering emulsion), a sprayable emulsion or a hydrodispersion.
  • the preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect, which are not limited to a restricted choice of raw materials. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable to serve as the basis for forms of preparation with a variety of uses.
  • the preparations according to the invention show very good sensory and cosmetic properties, such as, for example, the distributability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, and are furthermore notable for very good light protection effectiveness and, at the same time, excellent skin care data.
  • the invention therefore also relates to light-protective cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized in that they contain synergistic combinations of substances
  • R 1 and R 2 are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, the UV protection performance, in particular the UV-A protection performance, of these preparations being higher than the same preparations which contain no substances according to (b).
  • UV protection performance of sunscreens or the UV filters on which they are based is generally determined in biological effectiveness tests under standardized conditions.
  • UV protective power means both the protective power against UV-A radiation and against UV-B radiation.
  • a measure of the UV protection power in the sense of the present invention is, for example, the sun protection factor (SPF or SPF) or also IPD values and the like.
  • the sun protection factor indicates the prolongation of sun exposure, which is made possible by using the sunscreen. It is the quotient of erythema threshold time with sunscreen and erythema threshold time without sunscreen.
  • the IPD method is usually used to test UV-A protection
  • the invention also relates to the use of one or more dialkylnaphthalates, which are distinguished by the structural formula
  • R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, to achieve or increase the solubility of hydroxybenzophenones.
  • UV-A filter substances are e.g. B. dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 becomes.
  • B. dibenzoylmethane derivatives especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 becomes.
  • UV stabilizers such as, for example, ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene) or 4-methylbenzylidene camphor.
  • octocrylene ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate
  • 4-methylbenzylidene camphor ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate
  • R 1 and R 2 are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, for the stabilization of dibenzoylmethane derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations against the decomposition induced by UV radiation, to remedy this problem.
  • UV stabilizers in particular the use of ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene) or 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, can be dispensed with entirely ,
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen, C 1 -C 20 -alkyl, C 3 -C 10 -cycloalkyl or C 3 -C 10 -cycloalkenyl, the substituents R 1 and R 2 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and • R 3 is a CC 20 -alkyl radical.
  • a particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.1 to 15% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, of one or more hydroxybenzophenones.
  • Dialkylnaphthalates for which R 1 and / or R 2 are branched alkyl groups having 6 to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Very particularly preferred in the sense of the present invention is diethylhexyl naphthalate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Hallbrite TQ TM from CP Hall or Corapan TQ TM from H&R.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously contain 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, of one or more dialkylnaphthalates.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological light protection formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and the cosmetic or dermatological Sun protection, also used for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can be used for the purposes of the present invention, for example as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the skin feel, fats, oils, waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the skin feel, fats, oils, waxes or other usual
  • Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols,
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant TM), iodopropylbutylcarbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil -L, Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.
  • formaldehyde releasers such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant TM
  • iodopropylbutylcarbamate for example those under the trade
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • preservation aids such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive but nevertheless optional antioxidants.
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.
  • active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as.
  • Recipes according to the invention which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • skin aging such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangie
  • the water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number
  • Polysaccharides or their derivatives e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. Moisturizers can also be used with preference.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the skin layer (also called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the homolayer positively.
  • Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither primarily UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • cocoglyceride olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention comprises 2- ⁇ 5 alkyl benzoate has a content of C or consists entirely of this.
  • Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB). Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane.
  • non-polar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked like chains and / or networks and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.) are saturated.
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • aminomodifi- graced silicones INCI: Amodimethicone
  • silicone waxes e.g. B.
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • cosmetic and dermatological preparations the main purpose of which is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances.
  • So z. B. usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products UV-A or UV-B filter substances.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature and / or one or more silicone derivatives as a further phase.
  • Oil-free formulations in the sense of the present invention can advantageously also contain other lipophilic components - such as lipophilic active ingredients.
  • ICI
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ⁇ ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), Manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides as well as the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ).
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al aluminum hydroxide Al
  • Al oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n
  • silicon dioxide SiO 2
  • silica also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9
  • iron oxide Fe 2 O 3
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), Simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • Latex particles which are advantageous according to the invention are those described in the following documents: US Pat. No. 5,663,213 and EP 0 761 201. Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and, for. B. are available under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere” from Rohm & Haas.
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: methylene bis-benzotriazole methylbutylphenol) , which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
  • Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
  • An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ) (INCI: bisoctyltriazole), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • a further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention, further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [ for example the 4- (tert-butyl) - 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, each individually or in any combination with one another.
  • dibenzoylmethane derivatives for example the 4- (tert-butyl) - 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetics - see preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • film formers may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting).
  • Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.
  • Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
  • copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.

Abstract

The invention relates to light-protective cosmetic or dermatological preparations that contain (a) at least one hydroxybenzophenone, and (b) at last one dialkyl naphthalate of the structural formula (I), wherein R1 and R2 are independently selected form the group of the branched and unbranched alkyl groups that have 6 to 24 carbon atoms. The invention further relates to the use of said formulations.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg
Beschreibungdescription
Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Hydroxybenzophenonen und AlkylnaphthalatenCosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations containing hydroxybenzophenones and alkyl naphthalates
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzzubereitungen.The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations.
Die schädigende Wirkung des ultravioletten Teils der Sonnenstrahlung auf die Haut ist allgemein bekannt. In Abhängigkeit von ihrer jeweiligen Wellenlänge haben die Strahlen verschiedene Wirkungen auf das Organ Haut: Die sogenannte UV-C-Strahlung mit einer Wellenlänge, die kleiner als 290 nm ist, wird von der Ozonschicht in der Erdatmosphäre absorbiert und hat daher keine physiologische Bedeutung. Dagegen verursachen Strahlen im Bereich zwischen 290 nm und 320 nm, dem sogenannten UV-B-Bereich, ein Ery- them, einen einfachen Sonnenbrand oder sogar mehr oder weniger starke Verbrennun- gen. Als ein Maximum der Erythemwirksamkeit des Sonnenlichtes wird der engere Bereich um 308 nm angegeben.The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. Depending on their respective wavelengths, the rays have different effects on the skin organ: The so-called UV-C radiation with a wavelength that is less than 290 nm is absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere and therefore has no physiological significance. In contrast, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UV-B range, cause an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns. The narrower range is around the maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight 308 nm specified.
Zum Schutz gegen UV-B-Strahlung sind zahlreiche Verbindungen bekannt, bei denen es sich beispielsweise um Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, der 4-Aminobenzoesäure, der Zimtsäure, der Salicylsäure, des Benzophenons sowie des Triazins handelt.Numerous compounds are known for protection against UV-B radiation, which are, for example, derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and triazine.
Man hat lange Zeit fälschlicherweise angenommen, daß die langwellige UV-A-Strahlung mit einer Wellenlänge zwischen 320 nm und 400 nm nur eine vernachlässigbare biologische Wirkung aufweist. Inzwischen ist allerdings durch zahlreiche Studien belegt, daß UV-A-Strahlung im Hinblick auf die Auslösung photodynamischer, speziell phototoxischer Reaktionen und chronischer Veränderungen der Haut weitaus gefährlicher als UV-B- Strahlung ist. Auch kann der schädigende Einfluß der UV-B-Strahlung durch UV-AStrahlung noch verstärkt werden. So ist es u. a. erwiesen, daß selbst die UV-A-Strahlung unter ganz normalen Alltagsbe- dingungen ausreicht, um innerhalb kurzer Zeit die Collagen- und Elastinfasern zu schädi- gen, die für die Struktur und Festigkeit der Haut von wesentlicher Bedeutung sind. Hierdurch kommt es zu chronischen lichtbedingten Hautveränderungen - die Haut „altert" vorzeitig. Zum klinischen Erscheinungsbild der durch Licht gealterten Haut gehören beispielsweise Falten und Fältchen sowie ein unregelmäßiges, zerfurchtes Relief. Ferner können die von lichtbedingter Hautalterung betroffenen Partien eine unregelmäßige Pigmentierung aufweisen. Auch die Bildung von braunen Flecken, Keratosen und sogar Karzinomen bzw. malignen Melanomen ist möglich. Eine durch die alltägliche UV-Belastung vorzeitig gealterte Haut zeichnet sich außerdem durch eine geringere Aktivität der Lan- gerhanszellen und eine leichte, chronische Entzündung aus.It has long been erroneously assumed that long-wave UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm has only a negligible biological effect. In the meantime, however, numerous studies have shown that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin. The damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be increased by UV-A radiation. It has been proven, among other things, that even UV-A radiation is sufficient under normal everyday conditions to damage collagen and elastin fibers within a short time. conditions that are essential for the structure and firmness of the skin. This leads to chronic light-induced skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely. The clinical appearance of skin aged by light includes, for example, wrinkles and fine lines and an irregular, furrowed relief. Furthermore, the areas affected by light-induced skin aging can have irregular pigmentation Brown spots, keratoses and even carcinomas or malignant melanomas are possible, and skin that has aged prematurely due to everyday UV exposure is also characterized by less activity of the Langerhans cells and a mild, chronic inflammation.
Etwa 90 % der auf die Erde gelangenden ultravioletten Strahlung besteht aus UV-AStrahlen. Während die UV-B-Strahlung in Abhängigkeit von zahlreichen Faktoren stark variiert (z. B. Jahres- und Tageszeit oder Breitengrad), bleibt die UV-A-Strahlung unabhängig von Jahres- und tageszeitlichen oder geographischen Faktoren Tag für Tag relativ konstant. Gleichzeitig dringt der überwiegende Teil der UV-A-Strahlung in die lebende Epidermis ein, während etwa 70 % der UV-B-Strahlen von der Homschicht zurückgehalten werden.About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays. While UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and time of day or latitude), UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, irrespective of the time of year, day or geographical factors. At the same time, the major part of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the layer on the back.
Es ist daher von grundsätzlicher Wichtigkeit, daß kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzzubereitungen sowohl gegen UV-B- als auch gegen UV-A-Strahlung ausreichenden Schutz bieten.It is therefore of fundamental importance that cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations offer adequate protection against both UV-B and UV-A radiation.
Im allgemeinen ist das Lichtabsorptionsverhalten von Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen sehr gut bekannt und dokumentiert, zumal in den meisten Industrieländern Positivlisten für den Einsatz solcher Substanzen existieren, welche recht strenge Maßstäbe an die Dokumentation anlegen.In general, the light absorption behavior of light protection filter substances is very well known and documented, especially since in most industrialized countries there are positive lists for the use of such substances, which apply very strict standards to the documentation.
Die Einsatzkonzentration bekannter als Feststoff vorliegender Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen ist allerdings häufig - gerade in Kombination mit anderen zu lösenden Substanzen - be- grenzt. Es bereitet daher gewisse formulierungstechnische Schwierigkeiten, höhere Lichtschutzfaktoren bzw. UV-A-Schutzleistung zu erzielen. Vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen sind Hydroxybenzophenone, insbesondere der 2-(4'- Diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl)-benzoesäurehexylester (auch: Aminobenzophenon), welcher durch die chemische StrukturformelHowever, the use concentration of known light protection filter substances known as solids is often limited - especially in combination with other substances to be dissolved. It therefore presents certain formulation difficulties to achieve higher sun protection factors or UV-A protection performance. Advantageous UV-A filter substances are hydroxybenzophenones, in particular the 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which has the chemical structural formula
gekennzeichnet ist. is marked.
Um einen optimalen UV-Schutz zu gewährleisten, müssen diese UV-Filtersubstanzen in gelöster Form vorliegen. Hydroxybenzophenone zeichnen sich an sich durch gute Lichtschutzwirkung aus. Ihr Hauptnachteil liegt allerdings darin, daß sie schlecht in üblichen Ölkomponenten löslich sind.To ensure optimal UV protection, these UV filter substances must be in dissolved form. Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by good sun protection properties. Their main disadvantage, however, is that they are poorly soluble in common oil components.
Ein Nachteil des Standes der Technik ist dementsprechend, daß mit diesen Filtersubstanzen in der Regel nur vergleichsweise niedrige Lichtschutzfaktoren erreicht werden konnten, da ihre Löslichkeit oder Dispergierbarkeit in den Formulierungen zu gering ist, d. h. sie lassen sich nicht oder nur schwer in befriedigender Weise in solche Formulierungen einarbeiten.A disadvantage of the prior art is accordingly that only comparatively low light protection factors could generally be achieved with these filter substances, since their solubility or dispersibility in the formulations is too low, i. H. it is difficult or difficult to incorporate them into such formulations in a satisfactory manner.
Selbst wenn grundsätzlich auch bei begrenzter Löslichkeit ein gewisser UV-Schutz erreicht werden kann, tritt häufig ein anderes Problem auf, die Rekristallisation. Insbesondere schlecht lösliche Substanzen rekristallisieren vergleichsweise schnell, was durch Temperaturschwankungen oder andere Einflüsse hervorgerufen werden kann. Unkontrollierte Rekristallisation eines wesentlichen Zubereitungsbestandteiles wie eines UV- Filters hat aber äußerst nachteilige Auswirkungen auf die Eigenschaften der gegebenen Zubereitung und - nicht zuletzt - auf den angestrebten Lichtschutz.Even if, in principle, a certain UV protection can be achieved even with limited solubility, another problem often occurs, recrystallization. In particular, poorly soluble substances recrystallize comparatively quickly, which can be caused by temperature fluctuations or other influences. However, uncontrolled recrystallization of an essential preparation component such as a UV filter has extremely disadvantageous effects on the properties of the preparation and - last but not least - on the desired light protection.
Es war Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung, auf einfache Weise zu Zubereitungen zu gelangen, welche sich durch einen erhöhten Gehalt an Hydroxybenzophenonen und eine demensprechend hohe UV-, insbesondere UV-A-Schutzleistung auszeichnen. Es war überraschend und für den Fachmann nicht vorauszusehen, daß lichtschutzwirksame kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sieIt was an object of the present invention to obtain preparations in a simple manner which are distinguished by an increased content of hydroxybenzophenones and a correspondingly high UV, in particular UV-A, protective power. It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic or dermatological preparations which act as sunscreens, characterized in that they
(a) mindestens ein Hydroxybenzophenon und(a) at least one hydroxybenzophenone and
(b) mindestens ein Dialkylnaphthalat, welches sich durch die Strukturformel(b) at least one dialkyl naphthalate, which is characterized by the structural formula
auszeichnet, worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen enthalten, den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen. distinguished, wherein R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
Die Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bevorzugt neben einer oder mehrerer Ölphasen zusätzlich eine oder mehrere Wasserphasen enthalten und bei- spielsweise in Form von W/O-, O/W-, W/O/W- oder O/W/O-Emulsionen vorliegen. Solche Formulierungen können vorzugsweise auch eine Mikroemulsion, eine Feststoff-Emulsionen (d. h. eine Emulsion, welche durch Feststoffe stabilisiert ist, z. B. eine Pickering- Emulsion), eine sprühbare Emulsion oder eine Hydrodispersion sein.For the purposes of the present invention, the preparations can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, one or more water phases and, for example, in the form of W / O-, O / W-, W / O / W- or O / W / O- Emulsions are present. Such formulations may preferably also be a microemulsion, a solid emulsions (i.e. an emulsion which is stabilized by solids, e.g. a Pickering emulsion), a sprayable emulsion or a hydrodispersion.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen stellen in jeglicher Hinsicht überaus befriedigende Präparate dar, welche nicht auf eine eingeschränkte Rohstoffauswahl begrenzt sind. Dementsprechend eignen sie sich ganz besonders, um als Grundlage für Zubereitungsformen mit vielfältigen Anwendungszwecken zu dienen. Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen zeigen sehr gute sensorische und kosmetische Eigenschaften, wie bei- spielsweise die Verteilbarkeit auf der Haut oder das Einzugsvermögen in die Haut, und zeichen sich ferner durch eine sehr gute Lichtschutzeffektivität bei gleichzeitig hervorragenden Hautpflegedaten aus.The preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect, which are not limited to a restricted choice of raw materials. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable to serve as the basis for forms of preparation with a variety of uses. The preparations according to the invention show very good sensory and cosmetic properties, such as, for example, the distributability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, and are furthermore notable for very good light protection effectiveness and, at the same time, excellent skin care data.
Gegenstand der Erfindung sind daher auch lichtschutzwirksame kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie synergistische Stoffkombinationen vonThe invention therefore also relates to light-protective cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized in that they contain synergistic combinations of substances
(a) mindestens einem Hydroxybenzophenon und(a) at least one hydroxybenzophenone and
(b) mindestens einem Dialkylnaphthalat, welches sich durch die Strukturformel(b) at least one dialkyl naphthalate, which is characterized by the structural formula
auszeichnet, worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen enthalten, wobei die UV-Schutzleistung, insbesondere die UV-A Schutzleistung, dieser Zubereitungen höher ist als die gleicher Zubereitungen, welche keine Substanzen gemäß (b) enthalten. characterized in which R 1 and R 2 are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, the UV protection performance, in particular the UV-A protection performance, of these preparations being higher than the same preparations which contain no substances according to (b).
Die UV-Schutzleistung von Sonnenschutzmitteln bzw. der ihnen zugrunde liegenden UV- Filter wird in der Regel in biologischen Wirksamkeitsprüfungen unter standardisierten Bedingungen bestimmt. Mit „UV-Schutzleistung" ist im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sowohl die Schutzleistung gegenüber UV-A-Strahlung als auch gegenüber UV-B-Strahlung gemeint.The UV protection performance of sunscreens or the UV filters on which they are based is generally determined in biological effectiveness tests under standardized conditions. In the context of the present invention, “UV protective power” means both the protective power against UV-A radiation and against UV-B radiation.
Ein Maß für die UV-Schutzleistung stellen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung beispielsweise der Lichtschutzfaktor (LSF bzw. SPF) oder auch IPD-Werte und dergleichen dar.A measure of the UV protection power in the sense of the present invention is, for example, the sun protection factor (SPF or SPF) or also IPD values and the like.
Der Lichtschutzfaktor (LSF, oft auch SPF (sun protection factor) genannt) gibt die Verlängerung der Sonnenbestrahlung an, die durch Verwendung des Sonnenschutzmittels ermöglicht wird. Er ist der Quotient aus Erythemschwellenzeit mit Sonnenschutzmittel und Erythemschwellenzeit ohne Sonnenschutzmittel.The sun protection factor (LSF, often also called SPF (sun protection factor)) indicates the prolongation of sun exposure, which is made possible by using the sunscreen. It is the quotient of erythema threshold time with sunscreen and erythema threshold time without sunscreen.
Zur Prüfung der UV-A-Schutzleistung wird üblicherweise die IPD-Methode verwendetThe IPD method is usually used to test UV-A protection
(IPD ≡ immediate pigment darkening). Hierbei wird - ähnlich der Bestimmung des Licht- schutzfaktors - ein Wert ermittelt, der angibt, um wieviel länger die mit dem Lichtschutz- mittel geschützte Haut mit UV-A-Strahlung bestrahlt werden kann, bis die gleiche Pigmentierung auftritt wie bei der ungeschützten Haut.(IPD ≡ immediate pigment darkening). Similar to the determination of the light protection factor, a value is determined which indicates how much longer the light protection medium-protected skin can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same pigmentation occurs as for unprotected skin.
Eine andere, europaweit etablierte Prüfungsmethode ist der Australische Standard AS/NZS 2604:1997. Dabei wird die Absorption der Zubereitung im UV-A-Bereich gemessen. Um den Standard zu erfüllen, muß die Zubereitung mindestens 90 % der UV-AStrahlung im Bereich von 320 bis 360 nm absorbieren.Another test method that is established throughout Europe is the Australian standard AS / NZS 2604: 1997. The absorption of the preparation is measured in the UV-A range. In order to meet the standard, the preparation must absorb at least 90% of the UV-A radiation in the range from 320 to 360 nm.
Gegenstand der Erfindung ist auch die Verwendung von einem oder mehreren Dialkylnaphthalaten, welche sich durch die StrukturformelThe invention also relates to the use of one or more dialkylnaphthalates, which are distinguished by the structural formula
auszeichnen, worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der ver- zweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, zur Erzielung oder Erhöhung der Löslichkeit von Hydroxybenzophenonen. distinguish in which R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, to achieve or increase the solubility of hydroxybenzophenones.
Vorteilhafte weitere UV-A-Filtersubstanzen sind z. B. Dibenzoylmethanderivate, insbesondere das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1 ), welches von Givaudan unter der Marke Parsol® 1789 und von Merck unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex® 9020 verkauft wird.Advantageous further UV-A filter substances are e.g. B. dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 becomes.
Der Hauptnachteil aller im UV-Bereich absorbierenden Dibenzoylmethanderivate ist eine gewisse Instabilität gegenüber UV-Strahlung, so daß diese Komponenten unter UV- Einfluß zu inaktiven Produkten zersetzt werden und für die UV-Absorption nicht mehr zur Verfügung stehen. Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik mit einem Gehalt an diesen Substanzen enthalten daher zweckmäßigerweise auch bestimmte UV-Stabilisatoren, wie beispielsweise Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen) oder 4-Methylbenzyli- dencampher. Allerdings ist es häufig wünschenswert, auf den Einsatz derartiger UV-Stabilisatoren zu verzichten.The main disadvantage of all dibenzoylmethane derivatives absorbing in the UV range is a certain instability towards UV radiation, so that these components are decomposed to inactive products under the influence of UV and are no longer available for UV absorption. Preparations of the prior art containing these substances therefore advantageously also contain certain UV stabilizers, such as, for example, ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene) or 4-methylbenzylidene camphor. However, it is often desirable to avoid the use of such UV stabilizers.
Es war überraschend und für den Fachmann nicht vorhersehbar, daß die Verwendung von Stoffkombinationen vonIt was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that the use of combinations of substances from
(a) mindestens einem Hydroxybenzophenon und(a) at least one hydroxybenzophenone and
(b) einem oder mehreren Dialkylnaphthalaten, welche sich durch die Strukturformel(b) one or more dialkylnaphthalates, which are characterized by the structural formula
auszeichnen, worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, zur Stabilisierung von Dibenzoylmethanderivaten in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen gegen die durch UV-Strahlung induzierte Zersetzung, diesem Problem Abhilfe schaffen. distinguish in which R 1 and R 2 are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, for the stabilization of dibenzoylmethane derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations against the decomposition induced by UV radiation, to remedy this problem.
Es war insbesondere überraschend, daß bei der Verwendung gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung gänzlich auf den Einsatz weiterer UV-Stabilisatoren, insbesondere auf den Einsatz von Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen) oder 4-Methyl- benzylidencampher verzichtet werden kann.It was particularly surprising that when using the present invention, the use of further UV stabilizers, in particular the use of ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene) or 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, can be dispensed with entirely ,
Hydroxybenzophenone zeichnen sich durch die folgende Strukturformel aus:Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:
worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C1-C20-Alkyl, C3-C10-Cycloalkyl oder C3-C10-Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R1 und R2 gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können und • R3 einen C C20-Alkyl Rest bedeutet.wherein R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen, C 1 -C 20 -alkyl, C 3 -C 10 -cycloalkyl or C 3 -C 10 -cycloalkenyl, the substituents R 1 and R 2 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and • R 3 is a CC 20 -alkyl radical.
Ein besonders vorteilhaftes Hydroxybenzophenon im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist das 2-(4'-Diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl)-benzoesäurehexylester (auch: Aminobenzo- phenon), welches sich durch folgende Struktur auszeichnet:A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:
und unter dem Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist. and is available under the Uvinul A Plus from BASF.
Erfindungsgemäß enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-%, vorteilhaft 0,1 bis 15 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-% eines oder mehrerer Hydroxybenzophenone.According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.1 to 15% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, of one or more hydroxybenzophenones.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Dialkylnaphthalate, für die R1 und/oder R2 verzweigte Alkylgruppen mit 6 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellen. Ganz besonders bevorzugt im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist Diethylhexylnaphthalat, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Hallbrite TQ™ von CP Hall oder Corapan TQ ™ von H&R erhältlich ist.Dialkylnaphthalates for which R 1 and / or R 2 are branched alkyl groups having 6 to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. Very particularly preferred in the sense of the present invention is diethylhexyl naphthalate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Hallbrite TQ ™ from CP Hall or Corapan TQ ™ from H&R.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 20 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-% eines oder mehrerer Dialkylnaphthalate.According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously contain 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, of one or more dialkylnaphthalates.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Lichtschutzformulierungen können wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und dem kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Lichtschutz, ferner zur Behandlung, Pflege und Reinigung der Haut und/oder der Haare und als Schminkprodukt in der dekorativen Kosmetik dienen.The cosmetic or dermatological light protection formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and the cosmetic or dermatological Sun protection, also used for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
Entsprechend ihrem Aufbau können kosmetische oder topische dermatologische Zusam- mensetzungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, beispielsweise verwendet werden als Hautschutzcreme, Reinigungsmilch, Tages- oder Nachtcreme usw. Es ist gegebenenfalls möglich und vorteilhaft, die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen als Grundlage für pharmazeutische Formulierungen zu verwenden.Depending on their structure, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can be used for the purposes of the present invention, for example as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
Zur Anwendung werden die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
Die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Konservierungshelfer, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchhaltende Substanzen, Füllstoffe, die das Hautgefühl verbessern, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Be- standteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Poly- ole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the skin feel, fats, oils, waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Vorteilhafte Konservierungsmittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispiels- weise Formaldehydabspalter (wie z. B. DMDM Hydantoin, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Glydant ™ von der Fa. Lonza erhältlich ist), lodopropylbutyl- carbamate (z. B. die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S von der Fa. Lonza erhältlichen und/oder Dekaben LMB von Jan Dekker), Parabene (d. h. p-Hydroxy- benzoesäurealkylester, wie Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl- und/oder Butylparaben), Phenoxy- ethanol, Ethanol, Benzoesäure und dergleichen mehr. Üblicherweise umfaßt das Konservierungssystem erfindungsgemäß ferner vorteilhaft auch Konservierungshelfer, wie beispielsweise Octoxyglycerin, Glycine Soja etc. Besonders vorteilhafte Zubereitungen werden ferner erhalten, wenn als Zusatz- oder Wirkstoffe Antioxidantien eingesetzt werden. Erfindungsgemäß enthalten die Zubereitungen vorteilhaft eines oder mehrere Antioxidantien. Als günstige, aber dennoch fakultativ zu verwendende Antioxidantien können alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ™), iodopropylbutylcarbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil -L, Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc. Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive but nevertheless optional antioxidants.
Besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können wasserlösliche Antioxidantien eingesetzt werden, wie beispielsweise Vitamine, z. B. Ascorbinsäure und deren Derivate.For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
Bevorzugte Antioxidantien sind ferner Vitamin E und dessen Derivate sowie Vitamin A und dessen Derivate.Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.
Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, wenn die kosmetischen Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung kosmetische oder dermatologische Wirkstoffe enthalten, wobei bevorzugte Wirkstoffe Antioxidantien sind, welche die Haut vor oxidativer Beanspruchung schützen können.It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.
Weitere vorteilhafte Wirkstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind natürliche Wirkstoffe und/oder deren Derivate, wie z. B. alpha-Liponsäure, Phytoen, D-Biotin, Coenzym Q10, alpha-Glucosylrutin, Carnitin, Carnosin, natürliche und/oder synthetische Isoflavo- noide, Kreatin, Taurin und/oder ß-Alanin.Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine.
Erfindungsgemäße Rezepturen, welche z. B. bekannte Antifaltenwirkstoffe wie Flavon- glycoside (insbesondere α-Glycosylrutin), Coenzym Q10, Vitamin E und/oder Derivate und dergleichen enthalten, eignen sich insbesondere vorteilhaft zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Hautveränderungen, wie sie z. B. bei der Hautalterung auftreten (wie beispielsweise Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen, Juckreiz, verminderte Rückfettung (z. B. nach dem Waschen), sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis), Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten und Fältchen, lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z. B. Altersflecken), vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit) und dergleichen). Weiterhin vorteilhaft eignen sie sich gegen das Erscheinungsbild der trockenen bzw. rauhen Haut.Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
Die Wasserphase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen kann vorteilhaft übliche kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie beispielsweise Alkohole, insbesondere solche niedriger C-Zahl, vorzugsweise Ethanol und/oder Isopropanol, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C- Zahl sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylen- glykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder - monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte sowie insbesondere ein oder mehrere Verdickungsmittel, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdioxid, Aluminiumsilikate, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z. B. Hy- aluronsäure, Xanthangummi, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Polyacrylate, bevorzugt ein Polyacrylat aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbopole, beispielsweise Carbopole der Typen 980, 981 , 1382, 2984, 5984, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination. Auch Moisturizer können bevorzugt verwendet werden.The water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates. Polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. Moisturizers can also be used with preference.
Als Moisturizer werden Stoffe oder Stoffgemische bezeichnet, welche kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen die Eigenschaft verleihen, nach dem Auftragen bzw. Verteilen auf der Hautoberfläche die Feuchtigkeitsabgabe der Homschicht (auch trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL) genannt) zu reduzieren und/oder die Hydratation der Homschicht positiv zu beeinflussen. Vorteilhafte Moisturizer im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Glyce- rin, Milchsäure und/oder Lactate, insbesondere Natriumlactat, Butylenglykol, Propylen- glykol, Biosaccaride Gum-1 , Glycine Soja, Ethylhexyloxyglycerin, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure und Harnstoff. Ferner ist es insbesondere von Vorteil, polymere Moisturizer aus der Gruppe der wasserlöslichen und/oder in Wasser quellbaren und/oder mit Hilfe von Wasser gelierbaren Polysaccharide zu verwenden. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind beispielsweise Hyaluronsäure, Chitosan und/oder ein fucosereiches Polysaccharid, welches in den Chemical Abstracts unter der Registraturnummer 178463-23-5 abgelegt und z. B. unter der Bezeichnung Fucogel®1000 von der Gesellschaft SOLABIA S.A. erhältlich ist.Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the skin layer (also called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the homolayer positively. Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft, wenngleich nicht zwingend, Füllstoffe enthalten, welche z. B. die sensorischen und kosmetischen Eigenschaften der Formulierungen weiter verbessern und beispielsweise ein samtiges oder seidiges Hautgefühl hervorrufen oder verstärken. Vorteil- hafte Füllstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Stärke und Stärkederivate (wie z. B. Tapiocastärke, Distärkephosphat, Aluminium- bzw. Natrium-Stärke Octenylsuccinat und dergleichen), Pigmente, die weder hauptsächlich UV-Filter- noch färbende Wirkung haben (wie z. B. Bornitrid etc.) und/oder Aerosile® (CAS-Nr. 7631-86-9).The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither primarily UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
Die Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der polaren Öle, beispielsweise aus der Gruppe der Lecithine und der Fettsäure- triglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 bis 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, wie z. B. Cocoglycerid, Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Rizinusöl, Weizenkeimöl, Traubenkemöl, Distelöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Macadamianußöl und dergleichen mehr.The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft sind ferner z. B. natürliche Wachse tierischen und pflanzlichen Ursprungs, wie beispielsweise Bienenwachs und andere Insektenwachse sowie Beerenwachs, Sheabutter und/oder Lanolin (Wollwachs). Weitere vorteilhafte polare Olkomponenten können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ferner gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen sowie aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Octylpalmitat, Octylco- coat, Octylisostearat, Octyldodeceylmyristat, Octyldodekanol, Cetearylisononanoat, Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butylstearat, n- Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethyl- hexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Stearyl- heptanoat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Tridecylstearat, Tridecyltri- mellitat, sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, wie z. B. Jojobaöl.According to the invention, z. B. natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax). For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyltrimetic halosynthesis, as well as synthetic, such as. B. Jojoba oil.
Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Dialkylether und Dialkylcarbonate, vorteilhaft sind z. B. Dicaprylylether (Cetiol OE) und/oder Dicaprylyl- carbonat, beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Cetiol CC bei der Fa. Cognis erhältliche.Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.
Es ist ferner bevorzugt, das oder die Olkomponenten aus der Gruppe Isoeikosan, Neo- pentylglykoldiheptanoat, Propylenglykoldicaprylat/dicaprat, Caprylic/Capric/Diglyceryl- succinat, Butylenglykol Dicaprylat/Dicaprat, C12-13-Alkyllactat, Di-Cι2-13-Alkyltartrat, Tri- isostearin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylat/Hexacaprat, Propylenglykolmonoisostearat, Tricaprylin, Dimethylisosorbid. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, wenn die Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen einen Gehalt an C 2-ι5-Alkylbenzoat aufweist oder vollständig aus diesem besteht.It is further preferred pentylglykoldiheptanoat the one or more oil components from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / Diglyceryl- succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C 12-13 alkyl lactate, di-Cι 2-13 -Alkyltartrat , Tri-isostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention comprises 2- ι 5 alkyl benzoate has a content of C or consists entirely of this.
Vorteilhafte Olkomponenten sind ferner z. B. Butyloctylsalicylat (beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Hallbrite BHB bei der Fa. CP Hall erhältliche), Hexadecylben- zoat und Butyloctylbenzoat und Gemische davon (Hallstar AB). Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen.Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB). Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
Ferner kann die Ölphase ebenfalls vorteilhaft auch unpolare Öle enthalten, beispiels- weise solche, welche gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, insbesondere Mineralöl, Vaseline (Petrolatum), Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen, Polyolefine, hydrogenierte Polyisobutene und Isohexa- decan. Unter den Polyolefinen sind Polydecene die bevorzugten Substanzen.Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.
Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölpha- senkomponenten zu verwenden.The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
Silikonöle sind hochmolekulare synthetische polymere Verbindungen, in denen Silicium- Atome über Sauerstoff-Atome ketten- und/oder netzartig verknüpft und die restlichen Valenzen des Siliciums durch Kohlenwasserstoff-Reste (meist Methyl-, seltener Ethyl-, Propyl-, Phenyl-Gruppen u. a.) abgesättigt sind. Systematisch werden die Silikonöle als Polyorganosiloxane bezeichnet. Die methylsubstituierten Polyorganosiloxane, welche die mengenmäßig bedeutendsten Verbindungen dieser Gruppe darstellen und sich durch die folgende Strukturformel auszeichnenSilicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked like chains and / or networks and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten. are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
Besonders vorteilhafte Polyorganosiloxane im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Dimethylpolysiloxane [Poly(dimethylsiloxan)], welche beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Abil 10 bis 10 000 bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Ferner vorteilhaft sind Phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Tri- methicone), cyclische Silikone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan bzw. Decamethylcyclopenta- siloxan), welche nach INCI auch als Cyclomethicone bezeichnet werden, aminomodifi- zierte Silikone (INCI: Amodimethicone) und Silikonwachse, z. B. Polysiloxan-Polyalkylen- Copolymere (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone und Cetyl Dimethicone) und Dialkoxydimethyl- polysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone und Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), welche als verschiedene Abil-Wax-Typen bei Th. Goldschmidt erhältlich sind. Aber auch andere Sili- konöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Cetyldimethicon, Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsilo- xan).Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also called cyclomethicones, aminomodifi- graced silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Es ist auch vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, kosmetische und dermatolo- gische Zubereitungen zu erstellen, deren hauptsächlicher Zweck nicht der Schutz vor Sonnenlicht ist, die aber dennoch einen Gehalt an weiteren UV-Schutzsubstanzen enthalten. So werden z. B. in Tagescremes oder Makeup-Produkten gewöhnlich UV-A- bzw. UV-B-Filtersubstanzen eingearbeitet. Auch stellen UV-Schutzsubstanzen, ebenso wie Antioxidantien und, gewünschtenfalls, Konservierungsstoffe, einen wirksamen Schutz der Zubereitungen selbst gegen Verderb dar. Günstig sind ferner kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen, die in der Form eines Sonnenschutzmittels vorliegen.It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
Dementsprechend enthalten die Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung vorzugsweise mindestens eine weitere UV-A-, UV-B- und/oder Breitbandfiltersubstanz. Die Formulierungen können, obgleich nicht notwendig, gegebenenfalls auch ein oder mehrere organische und/oder anorganische Pigmente als UV-Filtersubstanzen enthalten, welche in der Wasser- und/oder der Ölphase vorliegen können.Accordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können ferner vorteilhaft auch in Form von soge- nannten olfreien kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Emulsionen vorliegen, welche eine Wasserphase und mindestens eine bei Raumtemperatur flüssige UV-Filtersubstanz und/oder ein oder mehrere Silikonderivate als weitere Phase enthalten. Ölfreie Formulierungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können vorteilhaft auch weitere lipophile Komponenten - wie beispielsweise lipophile Wirkstoffe - enthalten.The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature and / or one or more silicone derivatives as a further phase. Oil-free formulations in the sense of the present invention can advantageously also contain other lipophilic components - such as lipophilic active ingredients.
Besonders vorteilhafte bei Raumtemperatur flüssige UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Homomenthylsalicylat (INCI: Homosalate), 2-Ethylhexyl-2- cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-Ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoat (2-Ethyl- hexylsalicylat, Octylsalicylat, INCI: Octyl Salicylate) und Ester der Zimtsäure, Vorzugs- weise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester (2-Ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamat, INCI: Octyl Methoxycinnamate) und 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester (lsopentyl-4-methoxy- cinnamat, INCI: Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate).Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethyl hexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferred wise 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate).
Bevorzugte anorganische Pigmente sind Metalloxide und/oder andere in Wasser schwerlösliche oder unlösliche Metallverbindungen, insbesondere Oxide des Titans (TiO2), Zinks (ZnO), Eisens (z. B. Fe^), Zirkoniums (ZrO2), Siliciums (SiO2), Mangans (z. B. MnO), Aluminiums (AI2O3), Cers (z. B. Ce2O3), Mischoxide der entsprechenden Metalle sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Oxiden sowie das Sulfat des Bariums (BaSO4).Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ^), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), Manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides as well as the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ).
Die Pigmente können vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch in Form kommerziell erhältlicher öliger oder wäßriger Vordispersionen zur Anwendung kommen. Diesen Vordispersionen können vorteilhaft Dispergierhilfsmittel und/oder Solubilisations- vermittler zugesetzt sein.For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
Die Pigmente können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft oberflächlich behandelt („gecoatet") sein, wobei beispielsweise ein hydrophiler, amphiphiler oder hydrophober Charakter gebildet werden bzw. erhalten bleiben soll. Diese Oberflächenbehandlung kann darin bestehen, daß die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophilen und/oder hydrophoben anorganischen und/oder organischen Schicht versehen werden. Die verschiedenen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch Wasser enthalten.According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
Anorganische Oberflächenbeschichtungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bestehen aus Aluminiumoxid (AI2O3), Aluminiumhydroxid AI(OH)3, bzw. Aluminiumoxidhydrat (auch: Alumina, CAS-Nr.: 1333-84-2), Natriumhexametaphosphat (NaPO3)6, Natriummetaphosphat (NaPO3)n, Siliciumdioxid (SiO2) (auch: Silica, CAS-Nr.: 7631-86-9), oder Eisenoxid (Fe2O3). Diese anorganischen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können allein, in Kombination und/oder in Kombination mit organischen Beschichtungsmaterialien vor- kommen.Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.
Organische Oberflächenbeschichtungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können bestehen aus pflanzlichem oder tierischem Aluminiumstearat, pflanzlicher oder tierischer Stearinsäure, Laurinsäure, Dimethylpolysiloxan (auch: Dimethicone), Methylpolysiloxan (Methicone), Simethicone (einem Gemisch aus Dimethylpolysiloxan mit einer durchschnittlichen Kettenlänge von 200 bis 350 Dimethylsiloxan-Einheiten und Silicagel) oder Alginsäure. Diese organischen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können allein, in Kombination und/oder in Kombination mit anorganischen Beschichtungsmaterialien vorkommen.Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), Simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Zinkoxidpartikel und Vordispersionen von Zinkoxidpartikeln sind unter folgenden Handelsbezeichnungen bei den aufgeführten Firmen erhältlich:Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
Geeignete Titandioxidpartikel und Vordispersionen von Titandioxidpartikeln sind unter folgenden Handelsbezeichnungen bei den aufgeführten Firmen erhältlich:Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
Weitere vorteilhafte Pigmente sind Latexpartikel. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Latex- partikel sind die in den folgenden Schriften beschriebenen: US 5,663,213 bzw. EP 0 761 201. Besonders vorteilhafte Latexpartikel sind solche, welche aus Wasser und Sty- rol/Acrylat-Copolymeren gebildet werden und z. B. unter der Handelsbezeichnung „Alli- ance SunSphere" bei der Fa. Rohm & Haas erhältlich sind.Other advantageous pigments are latex particles. Latex particles which are advantageous according to the invention are those described in the following documents: US Pat. No. 5,663,213 and EP 0 761 201. Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and, for. B. are available under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere" from Rohm & Haas.
Vorteilhafte UV-A-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind Dibenzoylmethanderivate, insbesondere das 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1 ), welches von Givaudan unter der Marke Parsol® 1789 und von Merck unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex® 9020 verkauft wird. Vorteilhafte weitere UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind sulfo- nierte, wasserlösliche UV-Filter, wie z. B.:Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020. Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
• Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, beson- ders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natri- umsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist; • Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Tri- ethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phe- nylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist; • 1 ,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1 ,4-Phenylendimethy- lene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1 ,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1 ,4- di(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtali- dene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;• Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially phenylene-1 , 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid-bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer; • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer; • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene)) bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1, 4- di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephthalic Dicampher Sulfonic Acid ( CAS.-No .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornyliden- methyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner sogenannte Breitbandfilter, d.h. Filtersubstanzen, die sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strahlung absorbieren.Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
Vorteilhafte Breitbandfilter oder UV-B-Filtersubstanzen sind beispielsweise Triazinderi- vate, wie z. B. • 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin (INCI: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolmethylbutylphenol), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: methylene bis-benzotriazole methylbutylphenol) , which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
• Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;• Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• 4,4',4"-(1 ,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1 ,3,5-triazin (INCI: Octyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird.• 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
Ein vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist auch das 2,2'-Me- thylen-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol) (INCI: Bisoctyltri- azol), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ) (INCI: bisoctyltriazole), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
Vorteilhafter Breitbandfilter im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner das 2-(2H-ben- zotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxa- nyl]propyl]-phenol (CAS-Nr.: 155633-54-8) mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Drometrizole Trisi- loxane.Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
Die weiteren UV-Filtersubstanzen können öllöslich sein. Vorteilhafte öllösliche Filtersubstanzen sind z. B.:The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:
3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher; 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester; 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
(3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methylsiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan Copolymer, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol SLX® bei (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) -methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which, for example, under the trade name Parsol SLX®
Hoffmann La Röche erhältlich istHoffmann La Röche is available
sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter. Eine weiterere erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwendende Lichtschutzfiltersubstanz ist das Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen), welches von BASF unter der Bezeichnung Uvinul® N 539 erhältlich ist. as well as UV filters bound to polymers. A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th
Besonders vorteilhafte Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, die sich durch einen hohen bzw. sehr hohen UV-A-Schutz auszeichnen, enthalten neben der oder den erfindungsgemäßen Filtersubstanz(en) bevorzugt ferner weitere UV-A- und/oder Breitbandfilter, insbesondere Dibenzoylmethanderivate [beispielsweise das 4-(tert.-Butyl)- 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan] und/oder das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phe- nyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, jeweils einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen miteinander.Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention, further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [ for example the 4- (tert-butyl) - 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, each individually or in any combination with one another.
Die Liste der genannten UV-Filter, die im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.
Vorteilhaft enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen die Substanzen, die UV- Strahlung im UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Bereich absorbieren, in einer Gesamtmenge von z. B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 ,0 bis 15,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmeti- sehe Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die das Haar bzw. die Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen.The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetics - see preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
Ferner kann es gegebenenfalls von Vorteil sein, Filmbildner in die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen einzuarbeiten, beispielsweise um die Wasserfestigkeit der Zubereitungen zu verbessern oder die UV-Schutzleistung zu erhöhen (UV-A- und/oder UV-B-Boosting). Geeignet sind sowohl wasserlösliche bzw. dispergierbare als auch fettlösliche Filmbildner, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination miteinander.It may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.
Vorteilhafte wasserlöslich bzw. dispergierbare Filmbildner sind z. B. Polyurethane (z. B. die Avalure® -Typen von Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® von der Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP/VA (VA = Vinylacetat) Copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder der BASF) etc. Vorteilhafte fettlösliche Filmbildner sind z. B., die Filmbildner aus der Gruppe der Polymere auf Basis von Polyvinylpyrrolidon (PVP)Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc , Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
Besonders bevorzugt sind Copolymere des Polyvinylpyrrolidons, beispielsweise das PVP Hexadecen Copolymer und das PVP Eicosen Copolymer, welche unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Antaron V216 und Antaron V220 bei der GAF Chemicals Cooperation erhältlich sind, sowie das Tricontayl PVP und dergleichen mehr.Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Die Zahlenwerte in den Beispielen bedeuten Gewichtsprozente, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der jeweiligen Zubereitungen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.
Beispiele:Examples:
1. O/W Sonnenschutz Emulsionen1. O / W sun protection emulsions
2. Hydrodispersionen2. Hydrodispersions
4. feststoffstabilisierte Emulsionen 4. Solid-stabilized emulsions
5. Stifte5. pens
6. PIT-Emulsionen6. PIT emulsions

Claims

Patentansprüche: claims:
1. Lichtschutzwirksame kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie1. Sunscreen-effective cosmetic or dermatological preparations, characterized in that they
(a) mindestens ein Hydroxybenzophenon und(a) at least one hydroxybenzophenone and
(b) mindestens ein Dialkylnaphthalat, welches sich durch die Strukturformel(b) at least one dialkyl naphthalate, which is characterized by the structural formula
auszeichnet, worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen enthalten. characterized in which R 1 and R 2 are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
Lichtschutzwirksame kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie synergistische Stoffkombinationen vonCosmetic or dermatological preparations effective against sun protection, characterized in that they contain synergistic combinations of substances from
(a) mindestens einem Hydroxybenzophenon und(a) at least one hydroxybenzophenone and
(b) mindestens ein Dialkylnaphthalat, welches sich durch die Strukturformel(b) at least one dialkyl naphthalate, which is characterized by the structural formula
auszeichnet, worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen enthalten, wobei die UV-Schutzleistung, insbesondere die UV-A Schutzleistung, dieser Zubereitungen höher ist als die gleicher Zubereitungen, welche keine Substanzen gemäß (b) enthalten. characterized in which R 1 and R 2 are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, the UV protection performance, in particular the UV-A protection performance, of these preparations being higher than the same preparations which contain no substances according to (b).
3. Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Gehalt an einem oder mehreren Dialkylnaphthalaten aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 20 Gew.-%, ganz besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-% gewählt wird, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.3. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the content of one or more dialkyl naphthalates in the range from 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, very particularly preferably 0, 5 to 15 wt .-% is selected, based on the total weight of the preparation.
4. Zubereitung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie mindestens eine weitere UV-Filtersubstanz, gewählt aus der Gruppe Triazi- ne, Benzotriazole, flüssige UV-Filtersubstanzen und organische und/oder anorgani- sehe Pigmente, enthält.4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one further UV filter substance, selected from the group triazines, benzotriazoles, liquid UV filter substances and organic and / or inorganic pigments.
5. Zubereitung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie mindestens eine weitere UV-A-Filtersubstanz und/oder einen Breitbandfilter, gewählt aus der Gruppe Dibenzoylmethanderivate [insbesondere das 4-(tert.-Butyl)- 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan] und 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one further UV-A filter substance and / or a broadband filter, selected from the group of dibenzoylmethane derivatives [in particular 4- (tert-butyl) - 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6-
(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin, enthält, wobei die weiteren Filtersubstanzen jeweils einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen miteinander vorliegen können.Contains (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, it being possible for the further filter substances to be present individually or in any combination with one another.
6. Zubereitung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie mindestens ein Flavonglycosid, insbesondere α-Glucosylrutin, und/oder Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate enthält.6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one flavone glycoside, in particular α-glucosylrutin, and / or vitamin E and / or its derivatives.
7. Verwendung von Zubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche zur Hautbefeuchtung.7. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding claims for moisturizing the skin.
8. Verwendung von Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6 zum Schutz vor lichtbedingter Hautalterung.8. Use of preparations according to one of claims 1 to 6 for protection against light-induced skin aging.
9. Verwendung von einem oder mehreren Dialkylnaphthalaten, welche sich durch die Strukturformel auszeichnen, worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, zur Erzielung oder Erhöhung der Löslichkeit von Hydroxybenzophenonen.9. Use of one or more dialkylnaphthalates, which are characterized by the structural formula distinguish in which R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, to achieve or increase the solubility of hydroxybenzophenones.
10. Verwendung von Stoffkombinationen von10. Use of material combinations from
(a) mindestens einem Hydroxybenzophenon und(a) at least one hydroxybenzophenone and
(b) einem oder mehreren Dialkylnaphthalaten, welche sich durch die Strukturformel(b) one or more dialkylnaphthalates, which are characterized by the structural formula
auszeichnen, worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, zur Stabilisierung von Dibenzoylmethanderivaten in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen gegen die durch UV-Strahlung induzierte Zersetzung. distinguish in which R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, for stabilizing dibenzoylmethane derivatives in cosmetic or dermatological preparations against the decomposition induced by UV radiation.
EP02802639A 2001-11-09 2002-11-02 Cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations with a content of hydroxybenzophenones and alkylnaphthalates Withdrawn EP1480607A2 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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DE10155958 2001-11-09
DE10155958A DE10155958A1 (en) 2001-11-09 2001-11-09 Cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations containing hydroxybenzophenones and alkyl naphthalates
PCT/EP2002/012238 WO2003039506A2 (en) 2001-11-09 2002-11-02 Cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations with a content of hydroxybenzophenones and alkylnaphthalates

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US7204973B2 (en) 2007-04-17
WO2003039506A3 (en) 2003-12-24
WO2003039506A2 (en) 2003-05-15
DE10155958A1 (en) 2003-05-22

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