EP1414398A2

EP1414398A2 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations having a long-term cooling action

Info

Publication number: EP1414398A2
Application number: EP02754879A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Andreas Schäfer; Andreas Bleckmann; Boris Syskowski; Rainer Kröpke
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-07-17
Filing date: 2002-07-12
Publication date: 2004-05-06
Also published as: WO2003007908A3; US20050053632A1; WO2003007908A2; JP2004536126A; DE10134607A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cooling cosmetic or medical topical preparations, characterised in that they contain at least one substance having a melting point or a melting interval between 28 °C and 40 °C, and in that they have a positive melting enthalpy. Said substance(s) are in the solid state in the preparations.

Description

description

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations with long-lasting cooling

effect

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations with a long-lasting cooling effect, in particular skin-care cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

The skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (horny layer), is of particular importance as an important barrier layer. for protection against environmental influences and dehydration. The horny layer is constantly worn out in contact with the environment and must therefore be renewed continuously.

A skin model that is widespread among experts today regards the stratum corneum as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model). In this model, the corneocytes (hom cells) correspond to the bricks, the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.

UNGSK0P1E In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the smoothness of the skin. In contrast to the sebum lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.

The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the lipids of the upper skin layers is very important for the regulation of skin moisture. Therefore, in addition to balanced lipid blends and water, cosmetics usually contain water-binding substances.

In addition to the chemical composition, the physical behavior of these substances is also important. It is therefore desirable to develop very well biocompatible emulsifiers or surfactants with liquid-crystalline properties. Products formulated in this way support the liquid-crystalline organization of the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and thus improve the barrier properties of the horny layer. It is particularly advantageous if their molecular components consist of substances that occur naturally in the epidermis.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, particularly sun and wind, and to delay skin aging. Medical topical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions, that is, metastable two- or multi-phase systems in which the individual phases are in the liquid state. The most common emulsions are O / W and W / O emulsions. More rare forms of administration are multiple emulsions, i.e. those which themselves contain droplets of a further dispersed phase in the droplets of the dispersed (or discontinuous) phase, e.g. W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

In order to guarantee the metastability of emulsions, surface-active substances, i.e. emulsifiers, are generally necessary.

It is possible to prepare emulsifier-free preparations which, for example, have oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, similar to an O / W emulsion. A prerequisite for this may be that the continuous aqueous phase has a gel structure stabilizing the dispersed phase and other circumstances more. Such systems are sometimes called hydrodispersions or oleodispersions, depending on which is the disperse phase and which is the continuous phase.

Gels are the usual and increasingly popular cosmetic and dermatological preparation forms.

In the technical sense, gels are understood to mean: Relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems composed of at least two components, which as a rule consist of a - usually solid - colloidally divided substance made up of long-chain molecular groups (e.g. gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) as a scaffold and a liquid dispersant (e.g. water) exist. The colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickening or gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersant, whereby individual colloidal particles are involved via electrostatic interaction.

TÄTIGINGSKOPIE can be more or less firmly linked. The dispersing agent that surrounds the network is characterized by electrostatic affinity for the gelling agent, ie a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersing agent (in particular: water), whereas a predominantly non-polar gelling agent preferably gels non-polar dispersing agent.

Strong electrostatic interactions, which are realized, for example, in hydrogen bonds between the gelling agent and the dispersing agent, but also between the dispersing agent molecules with one another, can also lead to strong crosslinking of the dispersing agent. Hydrogels can consist of almost 100% water (in addition to, for example, about 0.2-1.0% of a gelling agent) and have a firm consistency. The water content is in ice-like structural elements, so that gels therefore do justice to their origin [from Latin "gelatum" = "frozen" via the alchemical expression "gelatina" (16th century) for nhdt. "Gelatin"].

Lipogels and oleols (from waxes, fats and fatty oils) and carbogels (from paraffin or petrolatum) are also common in cosmetic and pharmaceutical galenics. In practice, a distinction is made between oleogels, which are practically anhydrous, and hydrogels, which are practically fat-free. Most of the time, gels are transparent. In cosmetic or pharmaceutical galenics, gels are usually characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency.

So-called surfactant gels are also common preparations of the prior art. This is understood to mean systems which, in addition to water, have a high concentration of emulsifiers, typically more than about 25% by weight, based on the overall composition. If oil components are solubilized in these surfactant gels, also called “surfactant gels” in technical terms, microemulsion gels are obtained, which are also referred to as “ringing gels”. By adding nonionic emulsifiers, for example alkyl polyglycosides, it is possible to obtain cosmetically more elegant microemulsion gels.

The cooling effect of cosmetic preparations has so far been based on two basic principles: Use of components which volatilize in gaseous form after topical application and remove the required amount of energy, the so-called enthalpy of vaporization, for the most part from the skin surface. Suitable liquid components are therefore used in corresponding non-occlusive cosmetics. Ethanol has proven to be particularly suitable here, and formulations with a high water content also have a clear cooling effect.

Use of so-called cooling agents that interact with the skin's heat receptors and thus trigger a feeling of cold without generating a measurable physical cooling. In particular menthol and various menthol derivatives (Frescolate, Physcool, Questice L, etc.) are used for this. In particular, high ethanol contents as well as menthol and its derivatives are not suitable for numerous applications from an olfactory point of view, in addition to their irritative potential, in particular because of their distinct odor. Frequently enough, such substances also cause an increase in blood circulation, which on the contrary creates a feeling of warmth.

In the literature, for example, ionic compounds, especially ammonium salts, are described as cooling agents. Isopropanolic gels with camphor and menthol additives are also widely used as cooling preparations.

The use of these substances, especially on irritated skin, is problematic in any case. In addition, many of these compounds are poorly water-soluble. Their use is therefore limited to a few cosmetics and cosmetics.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide nourishing cosmetic and medical preparations which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art, in particular those which, when applied to the skin or mucous membranes, have a moisturizing and / or cooling effect.

DE 43 12 656 describes the use of cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable substances with a positive enthalpy of solution in cosmetic or medical topical preparations, characterized in that the substance or substances are present in the preparations in a largely anhydrous medium

BE ÄTIGINGSKOPI and / or be shielded from a water-containing medium by a material barrier.

Although this procedure can fundamentally lead to cosmetically satisfactory preparations, these are, however, extremely complex to produce galenically.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to remedy the shortcomings of the prior art and to provide cooling cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are simple to prepare, have no irritating effect on the skin or mucous membranes and, when used as intended, provide pleasant cooling.

The phase transition from the solid to the liquid state is also characterized by the occurrence of heat of transformation in numerous compounds. Endothermic melting processes take place with the absorption of energy that originates from the environment and thus leads to a lowering of the temperature there.

However, it was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cooling cosmetic or medical topical preparations, characterized by a content of one or more substances, the melting point or melting interval of which is chosen in the range between 28 ° C. and 40 ° C., and the positive enthalpy of fusion have, which substance or substances are present in the preparations in the solid state.

According to the invention, the use of one or more substances, their melting point or melting interval in the range between 28 ° C and 40 is also

° C is selected and which have a positive enthalpy of fusion for the production of cooling cosmetic or medical topical preparations,

N this substance or substances are present in the preparations in the solid state.

These preparations according to the invention develop their cooling effect within a wide range of use concentrations of the underlying substances, for example 0.5-50% by weight, advantageously 1-20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. They are easy to formulate and make no great demands on manufacturing processes.

If, as is particularly advantageous according to the invention, lipophilic substances are selected whose melting point or melting interval is in the range between 28 ° C and 40 ° C and which have a positive enthalpy of fusion, then in particular pronounced hydrophilic cosmetic or dermatological bases are to be considered to which the substance or as the substances whose melting point or melting interval is in the range between 28 ° C. and 40 ° C. and which have a positive enthalpy of fusion are then particularly preferably in particulate suspension, for example in aqueous gel formulations.

Particularly advantageous substances whose melting point or melting interval is selected in the range between 28 ° C and 40 ° C and which have a positive melting enthalpy are selected from the group of lipophilic substances, in particular the esters of C ₁₄ -C ₈ fatty acids, with low molecular weight ( C ₁ - C ₅ ) alcohols, the fatty alcohols C ₈ - C ₂₂ , the branched or unbranched fatty acids, the hydrocarbons C ₁₆ - C ₂₂ .

Methyl palmitate is particularly preferred for the purposes of the present invention.

In addition, further cooling active ingredients, for example menthol or menthol derivatives, can be added to these formulations for sensory modification or for enhancing the cooling effect.

The substance or substances whose melting point or melting interval is selected in the range between 28 ° C and 40 ° C and the positive melting enthalpy

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPIE sen, are also collectively referred to in the context of the present disclosure as the active ingredient according to the invention or provided with similar synonyms.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations used according to the invention with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions.

According to the invention, preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants can be used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione , Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, hexa- foximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA , EGTA and its derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate , Ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydonroxy acid, trihydonroxy acid, trihydonroxy acid, trihydonroxy acid, trihydonroxy Mannose and

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPIE their derivatives, zinc and their derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and their derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides) , Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, namely in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydro-dispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPIE It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to add the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations use.

If appropriate, cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. In addition to the active ingredient used according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment. However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to create cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid

(4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. Sodium, potassium or

Triethanolammonium salts,

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornyliden-

BESTÄTIGSNGSKOPIE methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

The invention also relates to the combination of a UVA filter according to the invention with a UVB filter or a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention which also contains a UVB filter.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, deodorising substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, agents for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments with a coloring effect, thickeners, softening substances , moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual substances components of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to prepare cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-

benzylidenecamphor;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters include:

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself;

BESTÄTIGΪNGSKOPIE Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts and 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo 3-bornylidene methyl) -benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, e.g. the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) Designated 10-sulfonic acid

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters that are usually contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (Ti0 ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ 0 ₃ ), zirconium (Zr0 ₂ ), silicon (Si0 ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ 0 ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ 0 ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on TiO ₂ .

It is particularly advantageous within the meaning of the present invention, although not mandatory, if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i.e. that they have been treated to be water-repellent on the surface. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se.

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPIE One such method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer after a rectification

n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R ^* -> n Ti0 ₂ (surface)

is generated, n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.

Advantageous Ti0 ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -0S0 ₃ ^2" , -S0 ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues. Surfactants are generally classified according to Art and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In water

BESTÄTIGIIMGSKOPIE solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ C00H X ^" (at pH = 2) X ^" = any anion, e.g. Cl ^'

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO- (at pH = 7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously

Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed.es soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyitaurate,

5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate

6. Alaninate carboxylic acids and derivatives such as

1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,

2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauram idcarboxylate,

3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPIE Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilureth-4-phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C ₁₂ . ₁₄ olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C ₁₂ . ₁₃ pareth sulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used in the invention can also preferably be chosen from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, especially benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as rylammoniumchlorid Benzyldimethylstea-, further alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, niumchloride Alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammo- or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides , Alkyl amide

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE ethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

1. acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamine, for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxy propyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as Cocamide MEA / DEA MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated.es propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, and propoxylated POE ethers Alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose esters, ether

7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters 8. methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPIE The surface-active substance can be present in the preparations according to the invention in a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

Mineral oils, mineral waxes

Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid as well as natural oils such as e.g. Castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably

Esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower C- alkanoic acids

Number or with fatty acids;

benzoates;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl palmitate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPIE saturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostate, mixtures of C _2- i5 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _2-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxyl units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

BESTÄTΪQINGS wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ^ - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4) , m can assume values from 2 to 200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R _T - R (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous.

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPIE However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, di - Ethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products, furthermore alcohols with a low C number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the group of the gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layered silicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as hydrogels contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention. The use of derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8) is also advantageous.

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

The polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

The nonionic emulsifiers include a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearyl citrates, b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids c) alkyl acid phenol amide fatty amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, e.g. Triton X)

BESTÄTIGINGS The anionic emulsifiers include a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate) b) fatty alcohol sulfates c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

The cationic emulsifiers include a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, e.g. Distearyldimonium Chloride

The amphoteric emulsifiers include a) alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids b) betaines, sulfobetaines c) imidazoline derivatives

There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example: the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ - 0-) _n -R ', the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -H, the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R ', the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -C (0) -R \ the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of ethoxylated sorbitan esters of cholesterol ethoxylates of ethoxylated triglycerides of alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPIE R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -S0 ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -R \ of the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -R ', the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -C (0) -R ', the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0- ) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of the propoxylated sorbitan esters of the cholesterol propoxylates of the propoxylated triglycerides of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) 0-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH of the alkyl ether sulfates or these sulfates underlying acids of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) n-S0 ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-0-X _n -Y _m -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula R-0-X _n -Y _m -R ', the etherified Fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R \ of the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are selected with particular advantage from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, particularly preferably

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE partly with HLB values of 14.5 - 15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated residues R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R 'or if there are isoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:

Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol ( 17) stearyl ether (Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol ( 16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19-), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17 ) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15),

Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol 17) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) - cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) - isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate , Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate

Sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (evening primrose = evening primrose)

It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl 20-caprate / caprin ) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl iso stearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.

It is also favorable to choose the sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C - Atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or uns saturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE monoisostearate, colmonocaprylat propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate glycol, propylene, sorbitan monoisostearate, propylene glycol monolaurate Sorbitanmo-, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, Isobehenylalkohol, Selachyl- alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth 2), glyceryl mono laurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention. The figures relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE example 1

The components of phases (A) and (B) are combined at about 80 ° C and stirred until the phases appear homogeneous. Then phases (A) and (B) are combined and cooled to approx. 40 ° C. The perfume phase (C) is added to the combined phases (A) and (B) at about 40 ° C., whereupon the mixture is cooled to room temperature.

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE Example 2

The components of phases (A) and (B) are combined at approx. 70 - 75 ° C and stirred until the phases appear homogeneous. The phases (A) and (B) are then combined and cooled to about 60 ° C., where they are emulsified by vigorous stirring. The preservation phase (C) is added to the combined phases (A) and (B) at about 50 ° C., whereupon the entire mixture is cooled to room temperature with continued stirring.

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE Example 3

The components of phases (A) and (B) are combined at approx. 70 - 75 ° C and stirred until the phases appear homogeneous. The phases (A) and (B) are then combined and cooled to about 60 ° C., where they are emulsified and homogenized by vigorous stirring. The preservation phase (C) is added to the combined phases (A) and (B) at approx. 55 ° C., whereupon the entire mixture is cooled to room temperature with continued stirring.

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE Example 4

The components of phases (A) and (B) are combined at approx. 70 - 75 ° C and stirred until the phases appear homogeneous. The phases (A) and (B) are then combined and cooled to about 60 ° C., where they are emulsified and homogenized by vigorous stirring. The perfume phase (C) is added to the combined phases (A) and (B) at about 55 ° C., whereupon the entire mixture is cooled to room temperature with continued stirring.

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE

Claims

claims

1. Cooling cosmetic or medical topical preparations, characterized by a content of one or more substances, the melting point or melting interval of which is selected in the range between 28 ° C and 40 ° C, and which have a positive enthalpy of fusion, this substance or substances in the preparations be in a solid state.

2. Use of one or more substances whose melting point or melting interval is selected in the range between 28 ° C and 40 ° C and which have a positive enthalpy of fusion for the production of cooling cosmetic or medical topical preparations, this substance or substances in the preparations in solid state.

3. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the substance or substances whose melting point or melting interval is in the range between 28 ° C and 40 ° C, and have the positive enthalpy of fusion, in concentrations of 0.5 - 50 wt .-% are present, advantageously 1 - 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

4. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that as the substance or as the substances whose melting point or melting interval is in the range between 28 ° C and 40 ° C and have the positive enthalpy of fusion, one or more lipophilic Substances can be chosen.

5. Preparations or use according to claim 4, characterized in that the preparations on a pronounced hydrophilic cosmetic or dermatological basis

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE are based, in which the substance or as the substances whose melting point or melting interval is in the range between 28 ° C. and 40 ° C. and which have a positive enthalpy of fusion are then preferably in finely particulate suspension, for example in aqueous gel formulations.

6. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the substance or substances whose melting point or melting interval is selected in the range between 28 ° C and 40 ° C, and have the positive enthalpy of melting are selected from the group of lipophilic substances, especially the esters of C ₁ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, with low molecular weight C ^ - C ₅ ) alcohols, the fatty alcohols C ₈ - C ₂₂ , the branched or unbranched fatty acids, the hydrocarbons C ₁₆ - C ₂₂ .

7. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the substance or substances whose melting point or melting interval is selected in the range between 28 ° C and 40 ° C, and have the positive enthalpy of fusion, the methyl palmitate is selected ..

BESTÄTIGINGSKOPiE