Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
  • A61K8/66—Enzymes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9755—Gymnosperms [Coniferophyta]
  • A61K8/9767—Pinaceae [Pine family], e.g. pine or cedar
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9771—Ginkgophyta, e.g. Ginkgoaceae [Ginkgo family]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]

Definitions

• the subject of the invention is a ready-to-use composition for bleaching human keratin fibers previously dyed with oxidation dyes, in particular hair, comprising at least one enzyme of the 4-electron oxidoreductase type, and minus an enzyme mediator; as well as the bleaching process using said composition.
• Oxidation dyes which are oxidation dye precursors or oxidation bases and couplers.
• Oxidation dye precursors in particular ortho or para-phenylenediamines, ortho or para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, are generally called oxidation bases. "" These oxidation dye precursors, or oxidation bases, are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored and coloring compounds, by a condensation process oxidative.
• the Applicant has now discovered, unexpectedly and entirely surprisingly, that it is possible " to partially or totally bleach human keratin fibers previously dyed with oxidation dyes and in particular hair, using a composition comprising at least one 4-electron oxidoreductase type enzyme and at least one enzymatic mediator
• the discoloration obtained is regular and homogeneous without causing significant degradation of the keratin fibers.
• the first object of the invention is therefore a ready-to-use composition for bleaching human keratin fibers previously dyed with oxidation dyes, and in particular hair, characterized in that it comprises at least one enzyme. oxidoreductase type with 4 electrons, and at least one enzymatic mediator, said composition being free of oxidation base.
• the invention also relates to a process for bleaching human keratin fibers previously dyed with oxidation dyes, and in particular hair, using a ready-to-use composition for bleaching as described above.
• enzymatic mediator any compound capable of increasing the enzymatic activity of said 4-electron oxidoreductase.
• ready-to-use composition is meant within the meaning of the invention, a composition intended to be applied as it is to keratin fibers, that is to say that it can be stored as it is before use or result from extemporaneous mixing.
• two or more compositions for example, a composition containing at least one 4-electron oxidoreductase and another comprising at least one enzymatic mediator.
• the enzymatic mediator can be chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below and their possible tautomeric forms:
• Ai and A 2 identical or different, represent:
• the nitrogen atom of the NX group which can form, with the groups A ⁇ - (CO) n and A 2 - (CO) p, a heterocycle comprising from 5 to 18 members, said heterocycle may or may not be substituted by one or more alkyl radicals C 1 -C 4 , hydroxyl, phenyl, halogen, sulfo, carboxy or nitro;
• n and p identical or different, are whole numbers equal to 0 or 1.
• hydroxylamine N, N-dipropyl-hydroxylamine, N, N-diisopropyl-hydroxylamine, phenyl-hydroxylamine, N-acetyl hydroxylamine, 1-phenyl-1H-1,2,3-triazole-1-oxide, 2,4,5-triphenyl-2H- 1,2,3-triazol-1-oxide, 1-hydroxy-benzotriazole, l 1-hydroxy benzotriazole sulfonic acid, 1-hydroxy-benzimidazole, N-hydroxy-phthalimide, N-hydroxy-succinimide, quinoline-N-oxide, isoquinoline-N-oxide, 1-hydroxy-piperidine , violuric acid, 4-hydroxy-3-nitroso-coumarin, 1, 3-dimethyl-5-nitroso-barbituric acid, 1-nitroso-2-naphthol, 2- nitroso-1- acid naph
• the enzymatic mediator can also be chosen from the compounds of formula (II) or of formula (III) below:
• CH CHCOR4, SO2R4, POR4R5 ;
• Rg, R7 independently of one another, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1C5 alkyl radical
• acetosyringone syringaldehyde, methylsyringate, syringic acid, ethylsyringate, butylsyringate, hexylsyringate, octylsyringate or the ethyl ester of 3- (4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxyphenyl) -acrylic acid.
• the enzymatic mediator can also be chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) below:
• X represents a sulfur or oxygen atom
• RQ to R-J6 independently of one another, denote a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a hydroxy radical, formyl, carboxy, carboxyalkyl, carbamoyl, sulfo, sulfoalkyl, sulfamoyl, nitro, amino, phenyl , alkyl, alkoxy, carbonylalkyl, arylalkyl, these radicals being able to be substituted by one or more substituents R-17;
• R-17 denotes a halogen atom or a hydroxy, formyl, carboxy, carboxyalkyl, carbamoyl, sulfo, sulfoalkyl, sulfamoyl, nitro, amino, phenyl, alkyl, aminoalkyl, piperidino, piperazinyl, pyrrolidino, alkoxy radical, these substituents being able to, where appropriate, be themselves substituted by one or more R-
• the salts of 2,2'-azinobis (3-alkylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic) acids such as the diammonium salt of 2,2'-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-) can also be used as an enzyme mediator sulfonic acid).
• the enzymatic mediator (s) used in the composition in accordance with the invention preferably represent from 0.0001 to 5% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight approximately. weight.
• the 4-electron oxidoreductase (s) used in the composition according to the invention can in particular be chosen from laccases, tyrosinases, catechol oxidases and polyphenol oxidases.
• the 4-electron oxidoreductase (s) are chosen from laccases.
• laccases can in particular be chosen from laccases of plant origin, of animal origin, of fungal origin (yeasts, molds, fungi) or of bacterial origin, the organisms of origin being able to be mono- or multicellular. Laccases can also be obtained by biotechnology.
• laccases of plant origin which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of laccases produced by plants carrying out chlorophyll synthesis such as those indicated in patent application FR-A-2 694 018. Mention may in particular be made of the laccases present in extracts of Anacardiaceae such as for example extracts of Magnifera indica, Schinus molle or Pleiogynium timoriense; in extracts from Podocarpacees; of Rosmarinus off. ; Solanum tuberosum; Iris sp. ; from Coffea sp. ; Daucus carrota; of Vinca minor; Persea americana; Catharenthus roseus; from Musa sp.
• Anacardiaceae such as for example extracts of Magnifera indica, Schinus molle or Pleiogynium timoriense
• extracts from Podocarpacees of Rosmarinus off.
• Solanum tuberosum Iris sp
• laccases of fungal origin possibly obtained by biotechnology, which can be used according to the invention
• Rhizoctonia solani from Pyricularia orizae, and their variants.
• laccase s
• laccases of fungal origin possibly obtained by biotechnology, will be chosen.
• the enzymatic activity of the laccases used in accordance with the invention and having syringaldazine among their substrates can be defined from the oxidation of syringaldazine in aerobic condition.
• the Lacu unit corresponds to the quantity of enzyme catalyzing the conversion of 1 mmol of syringaldazine per minute at a pH of 5.5 and at a temperature of 30 ° C.
• the unit U corresponds to the quantity of enzyme producing an absorbance delta of 0.001 per minute, at a wavelength of 530 nm, using syringaldazine as substrate, at 30 ° C. and at a pH of 6, 5.
• the enzymatic activity of the laccases used according to the invention can also be defined from the oxidation of paraphenylenediamine.
• the ulac unit corresponds to the quantity of enzyme producing an absorbance delta of 0.001 per minute, at a wavelength 496.5 nm, using paraphenylenediamine . as substrate (64 mM), at 30 ° C and at a pH of 5.
• the 4-electron oxidoreductase (s) in accordance with the invention preferably represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. weight about that weight.
• the amount of laccase (s) present in the composition according to the invention will vary depending on the nature of the laccase (s) used.
• the amount of laccase (s) is between 0.5 and 200 Lacu approximately (either between 10,000 and 4.10 6 units U approximately or between 20 and 2.10 6 units ulac) per 100 ⁇ g of composition.
• the human keratin fibers which can be discolored according to the process of the invention are those previously dyed with at least one oxidation dye and preferably with at least one oxidation base.
• this oxidation base is chosen from paraphenylene diamine and its derivatives substituted on one of the amino functions and / or on the benzene ring, para-aminophenol and its derivatives substituted on the amino function and / or on the benzene ring, double bases, ortho-aminophenols, orthophenylenediamines and heterocyclic bases.
• couplers mention may in particular be made of meta-aminophenols, meta-phenylenediamines, metadiphenols, heterocyclic couplers such as, for example, indole derivatives, indolinic derivatives, naphthalene derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, and their addition salts with an acid.
• addition salts with an acid of the oxidation bases and of the couplers are in particular chosen from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates and tartrates, lactates and acetates.
• the medium suitable for bleaching (or support) of the ready-to-use composition for bleaching generally consists of water or of a mixture of water and at least one solvent organic to dissolve the compounds which would not be sufficiently soluble in water.
• organic solvent of C 1 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; glycols and glycol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, analogous products and mixtures thereof.
• the solvents may be present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition ready for use for bleaching, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approximately.
• the pH of the ready-to-use composition for bleaching is chosen such that the enzymatic activity of the 4-electron oxidoreductase is sufficient. It is generally between 3 and 11 approximately, and preferably between 4 and 9 approximately. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in dyeing keratin fibers.
• acidifying agents there may be mentioned, by way of example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
• mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
• basifying agents there may be mentioned, by way of example, ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol as well as their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and the compounds of formula (V) below:
• R 15 , R ⁇ 6 , R 17 and R-i ⁇ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl or C- ⁇ -C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical.
• the ready-to-use composition for bleaching in accordance with the invention, can also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for bleaching the hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionics or their mixtures, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or their mixtures, mineral or organic thickeners, antioxidants, enzymes other than the 4-electron oxidoreductases used in accordance with the invention such as for example peroxidases and / or oxidoreductases with two electrons with their possible cofactors, penetration agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as for example volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified, film-forming agents, ceramides , preservative agents, opacifying agents.
• adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for bleaching the hair
• the ready-to-use composition for bleaching in accordance with the invention, can be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels, optionally pressurized, or in any other form suitable for producing a bleaching of keratin fibers, and in particular of human hair.
• the composition In the case where the composition is stored as it is before use, it must be free of gaseous oxygen, so as to avoid any premature degradation of the mediator (s).
• At least one composition ready to use for bleaching as defined above is applied to the fibers, at an application temperature between room temperature and 80 ° C., for a time sufficient to partially or completely degrade the color resulting from the oxidation dye of human keratin fibers.
• the fibers are then rinsed, or optionally washed with shampoo, then dried.
• the application temperature is preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C and even more preferably between 35 ° C and 50 ° C.
• the time sufficient for the development of discoloration of keratin fibers is generally between 1 and 60 minutes and even more precisely between 5 and 30 minutes.
• the method comprises a preliminary step consisting in storing in separate form, on the one hand, a composition (A) comprising, in a medium suitable for discoloration, at least one mediator as defined previously, and on the other hand, a composition (B) containing, in a medium suitable for discoloration, at least one enzyme of the 4-electron oxidoreductase type, then mixing them at the time of use before d apply this mixture to the keratin fibers.
• a composition (A) comprising, in a medium suitable for discoloration, at least one mediator as defined previously
• a composition (B) containing, in a medium suitable for discoloration, at least one enzyme of the 4-electron oxidoreductase type then mixing them at the time of use before d apply this mixture to the keratin fibers.
• Another object of the invention is a device with several compartments or "kit” for bleaching according to the invention or any other packaging system with several compartments of which at least one first compartment contains the composition (A) as defined above. above and at least one second compartment contains the composition (B) as defined above.
• These devices can be equipped with a means enabling the desired mixture to be delivered to the hair, such as the devices described in patent FR-2,586,913 in the name of the applicant.
• the ready-to-use composition was prepared for the following bleaching (contents in grams):
• the ready-to-use composition for bleaching described above was applied for 30 minutes at a temperature of 30 ° C. to locks of natural gray hair containing 90% white hairs previously dyed using an oxidation dye.
• MAJIREL dark blond shade The hair was then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, and then dried. The dark blond shade then considerably weakened.

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• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Enzymes And Modification Thereof (AREA)

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• 2000
  • 2000-07-21 FR FR0009621A patent/FR2811889B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2001
  • 2001-06-29 BR BR0112995-3A patent/BR0112995A/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 2001-06-29 WO PCT/FR2001/002093 patent/WO2002007689A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2001-06-29 AU AU2001270716A patent/AU2001270716A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2001-06-29 US US10/333,259 patent/US20030159706A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2001-06-29 CN CN01813059A patent/CN1443058A/zh active Pending
  • 2001-06-29 EP EP01949590A patent/EP1304998A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2001-06-29 JP JP2002513427A patent/JP2004504335A/ja not_active Withdrawn

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