EP1207842A1

EP1207842A1 - Cosmetic composition based on hardly or non-polymerised, water soluble and partly neutralised silicon organic compounds

Info

Publication number: EP1207842A1
Application number: EP00960772A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Isabelle Rollat-Corvol; Henri Samain
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 1999-09-02
Filing date: 2000-09-01
Publication date: 2002-05-29
Also published as: FR2798063A1; WO2001015661A1; AU7296200A; JP2003508417A; FR2798063B1

Abstract

The invention concerns a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least 0.05 wt.% relative to the composition total weight, one or several water soluble organic silicon compounds, having one, two or three silicon atoms, at least a basic chemical function and at least two hydroxyl groups or capable of being hydrolysed per molecule, said organic silicon compounds being partly neutralised by a neutralising agent, selected among sulphuric acid, sulphuric acid salts and mixtures thereof. The invention is applicable to hairstyling compositions.

Description

Cosmetic composition based on organic silicon compounds, little or not polymerized, soluble in water, and partially neutralized.

The present invention relates generally to aqueous cosmetic compositions, in particular for the treatment of hair, comprising organic silicon compounds soluble in water, little or not at all polymerized. It is usual to use organic compounds such as polymers to produce cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair. For example, polymers used to dry solid materials are used to fix the hairstyle in a form. Such materials are also used to give shape retention effects. Polymeric compounds, such as polysiloxanes, are also used to give care effects to hair, particularly damaged or difficult to disentangle hair. The cosmetic compositions containing these polymers are deposited on the hair which is left to dry or which is rinsed before going on to drying. The use of polymeric compounds has several drawbacks.

The first drawback lies in the fact that, when the polymers are used in compositions above a certain concentration, the compositions obtained are difficult to apply due to the increase in the viscosity of the composition. This difficulty in applying the compositions leads to overloads in certain places of the hair and therefore to cosmetic defects and also implies that certain parts of the hair receive fewer compositions, which, in the end, induces a lesser effect on these parts. The second drawback lies in the fact that these compositions are sometimes difficult to implement. Indeed, the polymeric compounds with low solubility in water, require the use of organic solvent or mixture of organic solvents. The use of organic solvent causes several problems, such as environmental problems and effects on the cosmeticity of the hair.

To overcome these drawbacks, we therefore turned to the use of polymeric compounds made partially soluble in water. Thus, certain polymeric compounds can be used in water without adding any co-solvent. In this case, the limitation lies in the fact that these polymeric compounds are eliminated partially, or even completely, by rinsing the hair. Therefore, in this case, the effect due to the polymeric compounds is very limited after rinsing. In the end, this limits the effect of rinsed treatments (shampoo, after shampoo), but also reduces the advantage of such compositions used in leave-in mode (lacquers, foams, styling lotions, etc.) to the extent the user loses the effect acquired by the treatment when washing his hair.

Efforts have therefore been made to find compounds for the formulation of cosmetic compositions which can be used in water and which exhibit a persistence of their effect when the hair is rinsed.

Thus, United States Patent No. 4,347,763 (GILLETTE) describes cosmetic compositions comprising an organosiloxane monomer such as an aminoallalkoxysilane and an organic titanate in solution in an alcohol.

More specifically, this patent describes a process for shaping the hair which consists in moistening it with water then in applying a solution containing in isopropanol from 0.5 to 15% by weight of an aminoalkylalkoxysilane and 0.005 to 1.5% by weight of an organic titanate and then to put the hair in the desired shape.

According to this process, it is particularly recommended to keep the isopropanol solution away from any humidity.

The document "New types of hair fixers with semi-permanent properties", M. SARDO-Parfum Cosmétique Saveur France Vol. 2, No. 5 (1972) also describes compositions of this guy.

Most products are not effective because the aqueous compositions produced are not stable.

It has also been described in patent EP-113 992, a process for simultaneously fixing and conditioning the hair using a composition, stable in the absence of moisture, containing (A) a siloxane oligomer having at minus a nitrogen-hydrogen bond, and (B) an anhydrous additive, easily hydrolyzable, chosen from titanates, zirconates, vanadates, germanates, and mixtures thereof. The solvent of the composition is an aliphatic hydrocarbon or an aliphatic halohydrocarbon, preferably 1, 1, 1 -trichloroethane.

After application of the composition to the hair, the hair is placed in a humid atmosphere in order to cause crosslinking of the siloxane oligomer and of the easily hydrolyzable anhydrous additive.

There is therefore a need for a stable cosmetic composition, in particular for the treatment of hair, which is essentially aqueous and which makes it possible to obtain a sufficient cosmetic effect, in particular for hair in rinsed or leave-in mode. The present invention therefore relates to aqueous, stable cosmetic compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions for the treatment and care of the hair, which remedy the drawbacks of the prior art.

More specifically, the present invention relates to aqueous, stable cosmetic compositions for the treatment and care of the hair, giving the hair a long-lasting styling effect and a pleasant touch.

The Applicant has noticed, surprisingly, that it is possible to formulate cosmetic compositions which do not require the use of organic solvent and which have an effective cosmetic effect, resistant to rinsing, without the risk of hair problems loaded in the event of superposition, using in these compositions organic compounds of silicon little or not polymerized, soluble in water, comprising at least one basic chemical function and partially neutralized by specific agents. It has been observed that the application of such compositions makes it possible to obtain marked cosmetic effects, without problem in the event of overlapping, the effects of which resist well to rinsing and washing.

According to the invention, the cosmetic compositions, in particular for the treatment of the hair, comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more organic compounds water-soluble silicon, little or not polymerized, chosen from organosilanes comprising a silicon atom and organosiloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, organic silicon compounds further comprising at least one basic chemical function and at least two hydrolyzable or hydroxyl groups per molecule, characterized in that it comprises an amount of a neutralizing agent chosen from sulfuric acid, the salts of sulfuric acid and their mixtures such as organic silicon compounds, little or not polymerized, are neutralized at a rate of 1/1000 to

99/100, preferably from 1/100 to 8/10.

The organic silicon compounds according to the invention are capable of forming, in aqueous media, a non-hybrid compound, after condensation on themselves and evaporation of the support. The term “non-hybrid compound” means a compound which is chemically homogeneous as regards silicon, that is to say that it does not contain other additional metallic or organometallic species.

The organic silicon compounds, little or not polymerized, useful in the compositions of the present invention are chosen from water-soluble organosilanes, comprising one silicon atom and water-soluble organosiloxanes, comprising two or three atoms. silicon, preferably two silicon atoms. They must also comprise at least one basic chemical function, and preferably only one basic chemical function. The basic chemical function can be any function conferring a basic character on the silicon compound without harming its solubility in water and is preferably an amine function such as a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function. The basic chemical function of the silicon compounds according to the invention may optionally include other functions, such as, for example, a another amino function, an acid function or a halogen function.

The organic silicon compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention additionally comprise at least two hydrolyzable or hydroxyl groups per silicon atom. The hydrolyzable groups are preferably alkoxy, aryloxy or halogen groups. They can also, optionally, include other chemical functions such as acid or amino functions.

The preferred organosilanes according to the invention correspond to the formula:

in which :

R represents a halogen, an OR 'or R' _{j group} ; R ₅ represents a halogen, an OR "or R ' _{2 group} ; Rg represents a halogen, an OR'" or R ' _{3 group} ; and R _1f R ₂ , R ₃ , R ', R ", R"', K, R ' ₂ , R' ₃ represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups such as acid or amino groups, Ri, R ₂ , R ', R "and R'" can also denote hydrogen, and at least two of the groups R, R ₅ and R ₆ being different from the groups R ' _j , R' ₂ and R ' ₃ .

Preferably, R _1? R ₂ , R ₃ , R ', R "and R'", R ' _j , R' ₂ and R ' ₃ represent a C _j to C ₁₂ alkyl group, a C ₅ to C ₁₄ aryl group, a group alkyl of Ci to C ₈ aryl of C ₅ to C _1, and an aryl group of C ₅ -C ₁₄ - alkyl C AC _8; andR ₃ is preferably an alkyl group of C _j to C ₁₂ aryl, C ₅ -C _14, alkyl of C _j to C ₈ aryl of C ₅ -C ₁₄ aryl and C ₅ -C ₁₄ -alkyl C _j to C ₈ .

The organosiloxanes preferred in the compositions of the present invention can be represented by the formula:

in which :

R _j , R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₅ and R ₆ are defined as above; R 'represents a halogen or an OR ^ group; R ₇ represents a halogen, an OR ₁₀ or R'y group,

R represents a halogen, an OR ₈ group, R " ₂ or R3NRJR2 ^* , R" _j , R " ₂ , R ₈ , R ₁₀ and R _u represent a hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally bearing groups additional chemicals such as basic solubilizing groups;

• R-ll 'R _j0 and Rg can also designate hydrogen. Preferably R ",, R" ₂ , R ₈ or R ₁₀ and R _π represent an alkyl group from C _j to C ₁₂ , an aryl group from C ₅ to C ₁₄ , an alkyl group from C _j to C ₈ - aryl from C ₅ to C ₁ , and an aryl group of C ₅ to C ₁₄ -alkyl of C _j to C _g . At least one of the groups R ₆ , R ₇ and R ₉ denotes a halogen or a group OR '", OR ₁₀ or OR ₈ .

Preferably, the halogen is chlorine.

An important aspect of the compositions of the invention is that the organic silicon compounds, little or not polymerized, are partially neutralized by means of a neutralizing agent or pH regulator chosen from sulfuric acid, the salts of the acid. sulfuric and their mixtures, so that the neutralization reaches 1/1000 to 99/100 and better still from 1/100 to 8/10.

The sulfuric acid salts are preferably alkaline sulfates, in particular sodium sulfates, and ammonium sulfate. This partial neutralization of the organic compounds of the little or not polymerized silicon of the compositions of the invention assumes an important aspect for obtaining the properties desired for the compositions. Another important aspect of the compositions according to the invention is that the organic silicon compounds, the pH regulating agents as well as the other constituents of the composition, are chosen so that this composition contains significant amounts of the organic silicon compounds little or no polymerization, that is to say comprising one, two or three silicon atoms. Thus, it is necessary for the composition to contain, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least 0.05% of organic silicon compounds with little or no polymerization and preferably at least 0.5% and up to 50 % in weight. The level of organic compounds of silicon little or not polymerized, according to the invention, is determined by usual methods of analysis such as NMR spectroscopy of silicon 29 and of the proton, and by chromatography.

The compositions according to the invention are aqueous compositions. However, it is possible, for the use of adjuvants for example, to add a co-solvent such as an alcohol or a ketone, for example ethyl alcohol or acetone.

In known manner, all the compositions of the invention may contain the adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as oils, waxes or other usual fatty substances; conventional gelling agents and / or thickeners; emulsifiers; moisturizers; emollients, sun filters; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents such as ceramides; anti-free radical agents; surfactants; polymers; proteins; bactericides; sequestrants; anti-dandruff; antioxidants; preservatives; perfumes; charges; coloring matters.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) added to the composition according to the invention so such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition envisaged.

The compositions according to the invention can be used in rinse-out or leave-in mode.

The compositions according to the invention can be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of solutions of the lotion or serum type; in the form of aqueous gels; in the form of emulsions obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), of more or less thick liquid consistency such as milks and more or less creamy creams.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. The compositions according to the invention are preferably used as hair products, in particular for maintaining the hairstyle or shaping the hair. They can also provide temporary coloring to the hair, well ensuring protection of the hair against the effects of UV radiation, while providing hold or fixing properties of the hair. The hair compositions according to the invention are preferably styling products such as gels, styling lotions, brushing lotions, fixing and styling compositions such as hairsprays or sprays.

Lotions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump-dispensers or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example when it is desired to obtain a spray, a foam for fixing or treating the hair. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention in a method of treating the hair, with a view to maintaining and / or coloring it.

According to one embodiment of this method, the composition is applied to the hair which has been rinsed or not, preferably in the form of a spray, either using a pump bottle or using an aerosol. . After spraying all over the hair, the composition is left to act and dry.

The hair can be rinsed after application of the composition. The hair can be put into the desired shape, either before application or immediately after.

The drying time can be variable and depends on the nature of the composition.

0 The hair, after combing, has a very pleasant quality of touch.

The invention is illustrated by the following examples:

15 EXAMPLE 1

The following four formulations were made

Compositions Silicon compound Neutralizing agent Water

20 little or no polymerization, water soluble

Aminopropyltriethoxysilane amount of neutralization (g per 100 g of composition) (normality) compared to the “_- amount of soluble silane 0.5

1 12 g Hydrochloric acid qs 100 g

2 12 g Sulfuric acid qs 100 g

30

After application of the compositions to the hair and drying, compositions 1 and 2 lead to films having the following characteristics:

Composition 1: homogeneous film, transparent, flexible, not brittle.

Composition 2: homogeneous, transparent, very rigid, brittle film.

To obtain good cosmetic effects, it is necessary to have homogeneous, rigid, brittle films.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of one or more organic water-soluble silicon compounds, little or not polymerized, chosen among the organosilanes comprising a silicon atom and the organosiloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, these organic silicon compounds further comprising at least one basic chemical function and at least two hydroxyl or hydrolysable groups per molecule, composition characterized in that it comprises an amount of a neutralizing agent chosen from sulfuric acid, the salts of sulfuric acid and their mixtures such that the organic silicon compounds, little or not polymerized, are neutralized at a rate of 1/1000 to 99/100, preferably from 1/100 to 8/10.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the organic silicon compounds, little or not polymerized, soluble in water, represent at least 0.5% and up to 50% by weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the basic chemical function of the organic silicon compounds is chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary amines.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hydrolyzable groups are chosen from alkoxy, aryloxy and halogen groups.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic silicon compound (s), little or not polymerized, are chosen from the compounds of formulas:

in which : R ₄ represents a halogen, an OR 'or R' _{j group} ;

R ₅ represents a halogen, an OR "or R ' _{2 group} ;

Rg represents a halogen, an OR '"or R' group;

KR ₂ , R ₃ , R ', R ", R'", R'i, R ' ₂ , R' ₃ represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, optionally bearing groups additional chemicals, R _j , R, R ', R "and R'" can also denote hydrogen, at least two of the groups R, R ₅ and R ₆ being different from the groups R ' _j , R' ₉ and R '₃; and

in which :

R _1? R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₅ and R ₆ are defined as above; R ' ₄ represents a halogen or an ORi _j group;

R ₇ represents a halogen, a group OR ₁₀ or R "ι ',

R9 represents a halogen, a group OR ₈ , R " ₂ or R ₃ NR, R ₂ ;

R "_1;R" ₉ , R ₈ , R ₁₀ and R _π represent a hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups, the groups R _{11 5} R ₁₀ and R ₈ may also denote hydrogen; at least one of the groups R ₆ , R ₇ and R ₉ denoting a halogen, an OR '"group, OR ₁₀ or OR ₈ .

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the groups R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , R ', R'_1; R ' ₂ , R' ₃ , R ", R" \ R "ι, R '2' ^R 8 ' ^R 10 ^{and R} li ^are chosen from Cj-C ₁₂ alkyl, C ₅ to C ₁₄ aryl, _χ to C ₈ alkyl - C ₅ to C ₁₄ aryl, and C ₅ to C ₁₄ aryl - C _j to C alkyl.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salts of sulfuric acid are chosen from alkali sulphates and ammonium sulphate.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a hair product.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it is a hair product for maintaining the hairstyle or shaping the hair.