EP1139996A1

EP1139996A1 - Deodorizing cosmetic agents

Info

Publication number: EP1139996A1
Application number: EP99959408A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Rolf Wachter; Sabine Kühne; Jörg KAHRE; Holger Tesmann
Original assignee: Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG
Current assignee: BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
Priority date: 1998-12-21
Filing date: 1999-12-11
Publication date: 2001-10-10
Also published as: WO2000037035A1; DE19858812A1; JP2002532528A

Abstract

Disclosed is the use of cyclic carbonates as esterase inhibitors in cosmetic agents. A combination glycerin carbonate and trialkylcitrates is particularly suitable for the production of deodorizing agents.

Description

Deodorising cosmetic products

Field of the Invention

The present invention is in the field of cosmetic products and relates to deodorant preparations.

State of the art

In the field of personal care, deodorants are used to remove unpleasant body odors. These arise during the bacterial decomposition of the odorless sweat, especially in the warm, humid armpits or under similar conditions that offer good living conditions for the microorganisms. Depending on their function, the active substances for combating body odors can be divided into several classes: the class of odor maskers includes perfumes that are used to mask or hide body odor. The odor absorbers are special substances that absorb and largely retain odor-forming compounds. Examples of odor absorbers are mixtures of special, odorless fragrances or a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid. An important class of functional compounds are the so-called anti-microbial agents. These active ingredients are characterized by a selective activity against the bacteria, which release the irritating odorous substances from the odorless sweat. These anti-microbial agents are bacteriostatic, ie they inhibit bacterial growth without killing the bacteria themselves (no bacteriocidal properties). Typical representatives of these active ingredients are chlorhexidine or triclosan. Another class of active ingredients for deodorant production are the so-called enzyme inhibitors. They work by specifically inhibiting enzymes that are responsible for the development of odors. These are above all ester-splitting lipases, so-called esterases. A typical representative of the esterase inhibitors is citric acid triethyl ester. The exact mechanism of action is still unclear, it is believed that the citric acid released when the ester is cleaved lowers the pH of the skin and thus the activity of the esterases is inhibited. Antioxidants are also used as active ingredients, since it is assumed that the formation of body odor is at least partly due to the oxidation of sweat components by atmospheric oxygen. Another class of active ingredients does not inhibit the decomposition of sweat, but the development of it. Examples of these antiperspirants (synonymously antiperspirants, antiperspirants) are aluminum compounds such as aluminum sulfate or aluminum chlorohydrate. Antiperspirants thus indirectly act as deodorants by reducing sweating. An overview of this can be found, for example, in Limbach (ed.), "Cosmetics", p. 343 f., Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1995. However, it is clear from daily life experience that the problem of odor inhibition, in particular in the case of heat or physical activity, is by no means completely solved. The products on the market are unable to permanently prevent the secretion of sweat or the formation of odors. Rather, the inhibition is limited in time and also depends on the extent to which sweat is secreted. Accordingly, there is an ongoing need for products which are improved with regard to minimizing sweating and reducing odor formation and at the same time have an increased skin-cosmetic tolerance, ie a reduced irritation potential compared to particularly sensitive skin. The object of the invention was therefore to provide such products.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to the use of cyclic dicarbonates of the formula (I)

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent hydrogen, optionally hydroxyl-substituted linear and branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms are esterase inhibitors in cosmetic preparations.

Surprisingly, it has been found that deodorant preparations which contain cyclic carbonates as esterase inhibitors bring about a significant reduction in odor formation and at the same time have high skin-cosmetic compatibility.

Cyclic carbonates

Cyclic carbonates are produced by transesterification of dimethyl carbonate or diethyl carbonate with glycerol or vicinal diols, preferably 1,2-dioien. Typical examples of suitable cyclic carbonates are the transesterification products of the lower dialkyl carbonates mentioned with ethylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol and 1, 2- Hexadecanediol. The diols mentioned are generally prepared by opening the corresponding terminal olefin epoxides with water; analog, of course, 1, 2-diols can also serve as starting materials, which are obtained on the basis of internal olefin epoxides. Glycerol carbonate (Ri = hydrogen, R∑ = CH ₂ OH) is particularly preferred as the cyclic carbonate. The amount of cyclic carbonates used as esterase inhibitors in cosmetic products is generally from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, based on the composition. The present invention includes the discovery that cyclic carbonates can be used in conjunction with other esterase inhibitors. In a preferred embodiment, the cyclic carbonates are used together with trialkyl citrates.

Esterase inhibitors

Trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG) can preferably be used as further esterase inhibitors. Further substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, maionic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxy acid carbonic acid and their esters, for example citric acid and its carboxylic acid, such as citric acid and its carboxylic acid, such as citric acid and hydroxycarboxylic acid, for example. Zinc glycinate can also be used as an esterase inhibitor. Aminobenzoic acid amides and aryl-substituted alkanoic acid derivatives and N-substituted aminomethylene malonic acid derivatives are known as esterase inhibitors. These further esterase inhibitors are usually used in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight. Unless otherwise stated, all weights are based on!

The present invention includes the finding that by using cyclic carbonates in combination with other esterase inhibitors, in particular in combination with trialkyl citrates, a synergistic inhibition of the esterases can be achieved. The total amount of esterase inhibitors used is usually 0.02 to 25% by weight, based on the composition.

In a further embodiment of the invention, the cyclic carbonates can be used together with further deodorant active ingredients. The use of aluminum chlorohydrates, anti-microbial active substances and antioxidants is particularly preferred.

Aluminum chlorohydrate

Aluminum chlorohydrates are colorless, hygroscopic crystals that easily melt in the air and are obtained when aqueous aluminum chloride solutions are evaporated. Aluminum chlorohydrate probably works by contracting or sticking the sweat glands through protein precipitation and / or dehumidification [cf. J. Soc. Cosm. Che. 24, 281 (1973)]. For example, an aluminum chlorohydrate that corresponds to the formula [Al2 (OH) 5CI] * 2.5 H2O and whose use is particularly preferred is commercially available under the brand Locron® from Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / FRG [cf. J. Pharm. Pharmacoi. 26, 531 (1975)]. Aluminum chlorohydrates are the invention Preparations are generally added in amounts of 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, the cyclic dicarbonates are used as esterase inhibitors in cosmetic preparations which contain the following constituents: (amounts given based on the composition)

0.01 to 5, preferably 1 to 3% by weight of cyclic carbonates,

0.01 to 20, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight of further esterase inhibitors

1 to 50, preferably 10 to 50 wt .-% aluminum chlorohydrate

Anti-microbial agents

The preparations according to the invention can contain known anti-microbial active substances as further additives. These generally include all suitable preservatives with a specific approach against gram-positive bacteria. Typical examples are 2,4,4 ^, -Trichior-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan, sold under the Irgasan® brand by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH), chlorhexidine (1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) - hexane) or TCC (3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide). Quaternary ammonium compounds are also suitable in principle. Numerous fragrances and essential oils also have antimicrobial properties. Typical examples are the active ingredients eugenol, menthol and thymol in clove, mint and thyme oil. An interesting natural deodorant is the terpene alcohol farnesol (3,7,11 -trimetyl-2,6, 10-dodecatrien-1 -ol), which is present in the linden blossom oil and has a lily of the valley smell. Phenoxyethanol as well as glycerol monolaurate and diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC) have also proven themselves as bacteriostatics. The proportion of the additional germ-inhibiting agents is usually about 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the solids content of the preparations.

In a further embodiment of the invention, the cyclic carbonates can be used as esterase inhibitors in cosmetic preparations which contain chitin derivatives.

Chitin derivatives

Chitin is understood to mean amino sugar-containing polysaccharides of the general formula (CβHi3 05) x, which usually have molecular weights in the order of magnitude of 500,000 to 1,000,000 Daltons on average. Chitins consist of chains of β-1,4-glycosidically linked N-acetyl-D-glucosamine residues. Chitin derivatives are, for example, carboxymethylated chitins as described in J.Polym.Sci., Ser.B, 37, 528 (1995) or also ethoxylated, propoxylated or alkylated derivatives of chitin. Chitosans are preferably used as chitin derivatives. Chemically speaking, chitosans are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weights that contain the following - idealized - monomer unit:

In contrast to most hydrocolloids, which are negatively charged in the range of biological pH values, chitosans are cationic biopolymers under these conditions. The positively charged chitosans can interact with oppositely charged surfaces and are therefore used in cosmetic hair and body care products and pharmaceuticals Preparations used (see. Ullmann ^'s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 5th Ed., Vol. A6, Weinheim, Verlag Chemie, 1986, pp. 231-232). Overviews on this topic have also been published, for example, by B. Gesslein et al. in HAPPI 27, 57 (1990), O.Skaugrud in Drug Cosm. Ind. 148: 24 (1991) and E. Onoyen et al. in Seifen-Öle-Fette-Wwachs 117, 633 (1991). The production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available in large quantities as cheap raw materials. The chitin is used in a process that was first developed by Hackmann et al. has been described, usually first deproteinized by adding bases, demineralized by adding mineral acids and finally deacetylated by adding strong bases, it being possible for the molecular weights to be distributed over a broad spectrum. Appropriate methods are, for example, made from Makromol. Chem. 177, 3589 (1976) or French patent application FR-A 2701266. Preferred types are those as disclosed in German patent applications DE-A1 4442987 and DE-A1 19537001 (Henkel) and which have an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 Daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, have a degree of deacetylation in the range from 80 to 88% and an ash content of less than 0.3% by weight. In addition to the chitosans as typical cationic biopolymers, anionically or nonionically derivatized chitosans, such as carboxylation, succinylation or alkoxylation products, as described, for example, in German patent DE-C2 3713099 (LOreal) and the German patent application are also suitable for the purposes of the invention DE-A1 19604180 (Henkel). Furthermore, cationically derivatized chitosans, such as, for example, quaternized chitosans, are also suitable for the purposes of the invention. Industrial applicability

In order to be able to apply the active ingredients to the skin in a dosed, economical, convenient and cosmetically appealing way, they are usually incorporated into the basis of the formulation. The most important bases are: Alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, gels, oils, wax / fat masses, stick preparations and powder. For example, the preparations can each contain up to 60% by weight of lower aliphatic alcohols, preferably ethanol and organic acids such as e.g. Contain glycolic acid. Other feedstocks are superfatting agents, emulsifiers, antioxidants, talc, silica (e.g. as a carrier for the aluminum chlorohydrate), as well as perfume oils, essential oils, dyes and - for spray applications - propellants such as propane and / or butane. The agents are preferably sold as rollers (roll-on emulsions), pens, deodorant or pump sprays, but also as deodorant soaps or deodorant creams.

These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic agents, film formers, swelling agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, hydrotropes, Contain preservatives, solubilizers, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. surfactants that are particularly compatible with the skin are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides or alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, and alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, preferably protein amide fatty acid proteins, or alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, or alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, or alkyl amido fatty acid proteins, preferably protein-based fatty acid proteins or alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, and alkyl amido fatty acid proteins.

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear Cβ-C∑∑ fatty acids with linear Cβ-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3 carboxylic acids with linear ones are, for example, Guerbet alcohols C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of linear Cβ-C∑∑ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Cε-Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on Cβ-Ciβ fatty acids, esters of Cδ -C∑∑ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 K. hydrogen atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C _δ -C _{∑∑ alcohols} (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

(1) Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the Alkyl group;

(2) Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;

(3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;

(4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

(5) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimer isostearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;

(7) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(8) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid as well as 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, - coside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose);

(9) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

(10) wool wax alcohols;

(11) polysiloxane-polyalkyl polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

(12) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 1165574 and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol and

(13) Polyalkylene glycols.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters as well as sorbitan mono- and diesters with fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE-PS 2024051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Cβ / iβ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-ca-oxy 3-hydroxyethylimidazoiine each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the coconut acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cβ / iβ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -Sθ3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-aikylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyitaurine, N-alkyisarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylamino-bisacetic acid, each with about 8-aminoacetic acids Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid realanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers. Examples of suitable pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyiceliulose and hydroxyethylceliulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (for example Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma ), Polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethylceliulose, which is available from Amerchol under the name Polymer JR 400®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF) , Condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyldiethylhydroxy-hydroxymethylaminohydroxin (hydroxymethylaminohydroxin) / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, as described for example in FR-A 2252840, and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized Ch itosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol. Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, Vinylpyirolidon / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl / Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone A / ethyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam and derivatized cellulose ether as well as derivatized cellulose polymers.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiioxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 9J, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, waxes include Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, hydrogenated castor oils, fatty acid esters or micro waxes solid at room temperature, optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. Cetyl stearyl alcohol or partial glycerides in question. Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.

Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopheroi, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary celiosis derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Hydrotropes, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are • glycerin;

Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethyiolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

• Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

• Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

Aminosugars, such as glucamine.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angeiica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propylate and benzylate propionate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the jonones, oc-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil,

n Lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linolool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarine oil, cycloalene oil, cycloaluminum oil, orangelol oil, orange oil glycol, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil , Muscat Sage Oil, ß-Damascone, Geranium Oil Bourbon, Cyclohexyl Salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixoiide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, Phenylacetic Acid, Geranyl Acetate, Benzyl Acetate, Rose Oxide, Romilllate, Irotyl and Floramat alone or in mixtures, used.

The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Examples

Test procedure for esterase inhibition

The esterase used in the test system can cleave the substrates p-nitrophenylacetate or p-nitropenylbuty rat due to its esterolytic activity. In addition to acetic or butyric acid, p-nitrophenol is released, which can be quantified photometrically at 410 nm. Various solutions of glycerol carbonate in water were prepared to investigate the esterase inhibition. After the test mixtures had acted on the esterase for 15 minutes at pH = 6, their residual activity was determined in the test system described above. In parallel, the activity of the esterase (without inhibitor) was determined. From this the residual activity was calculated as

Esterase activity after incubation with glycerol carbonate

Residual activity [%] = x 100

Esterase activity without incubation with inhibitor

A total of 4 different concentrations of glycerol carbonate were tested: 3%, 2%, 1% and 0.5% by weight. The table below shows the results. In addition, formulations with triethyl citrate and aluminum chlorohydrate were tested. All quantities as% by weight.

Table 1

Formulations and esterase inhibition

As can be seen from Table 1, glycerol carbonate inhibits the activity of the esterase (R1 to R4). In combination with a known esterase inhibitor trialkyl citrate there is a synergistic inhibition of the esterase (R5).

Claims

claims

1. Use of cyclic carbonates of the formula (I)

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent hydrogen, optionally hydroxy-substituted linear and branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, as an esterase inhibitor in cosmetic preparations.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that glycerol carbonate is used as the cyclic carbonate.

3. Use according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the cyclic carbonates are used together with further esterase inhibitors.

4. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that trialkyl citrates are used as a further esterase inhibitor.

5. Use according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cyclic carbonates are used together with aluminum chlorohydrates.

6. Use according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cyclic carbonates are used in amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%.