EP1011616A1 - Compositions de soin capillaire contenant des azurants optiques et des solvants non volatils - Google Patents

Compositions de soin capillaire contenant des azurants optiques et des solvants non volatils

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Publication number
EP1011616A1
EP1011616A1 EP97942562A EP97942562A EP1011616A1 EP 1011616 A1 EP1011616 A1 EP 1011616A1 EP 97942562 A EP97942562 A EP 97942562A EP 97942562 A EP97942562 A EP 97942562A EP 1011616 A1 EP1011616 A1 EP 1011616A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
alkyl
hair
carbon atoms
silicone
compounds
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP97942562A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Arata Mitsumatsu
Dorthy Yong Juanico Salvador
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Procter and Gamble Co
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Procter and Gamble Co filed Critical Procter and Gamble Co
Publication of EP1011616A1 publication Critical patent/EP1011616A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/434—Luminescent, Fluorescent; Optical brighteners; Photosensitizers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a hair care composition comprising optical bhghteners which alter the color of the hair, while enhancing the shininess of the hair, and protecting the hair from further damage. More specifically, the present invention relates to a hair care composition comprising optical brighteners and non-volatile solvents.
  • the desire to regain the natural color and shine of damaged hair and the desire to alter the color of the hair to be more appealing are widely held. Damaged hair is perceived by the consumer as unfavorable appearances and less manageability of the hair. Such unfavorable appearances include alteration and fading of original color, less shine, and less luster.
  • a common way for alleviating the unfavorable appearances of damaged hair and to achieve appealing hair color is to dye the hair to the color desired. Dyeing the hair would provide the consumer with a stable color of hair for a relatively long period. However, dyeing the hair is generally time-consuming, cumbersome, and messy. Dyestuff may also be chemically harsh to the hair, scalp, and skin. The hair can be further damaged by dyeing. Thus, hair dye products are not suitable for daily use. Further, dyeing can leave the hair with a dull appearance, making the hair look less shiny.
  • optical brighteners or compounds otherwise described by names such as fluorescent whitening agents, fluorescent brighteners, or fluorescent dyes, in the hair care field has been known in the art, such as in United States Patent 3,658,985, United States Patent 4,312,855, Canadian Patent 1,255,603, United States Patent 3,577,528, Great England Patent Specification 1 ,328, 108, South African Application 676,049, European Publication 87,060, and Great England Patent Specification 2,307,639.
  • the present invention is directed to a hair care composition
  • a hair care composition comprising:
  • Optical brighteners are compounds which absorb ultraviolet light and re- emit the energy in the form of visible light.
  • the optical brighteners useful herein have an absorption, preferably a major absorption peak, between a wavelength of about 1 nm and about 420nm, and an emission, preferably a major emission peak, between a wavelength of about 360nm and about 830nm; wherein the major absorption peak has a shorter wavelength than the major emission peak. More preferably, the optical brighteners useful herein have a major absorption peak between a wavelength of about 200nm and about 420nm, and a major emission peak between a wavelength of about 400nm and about 780nm.
  • Optical brighteners may or may not have a secondary absorption peak in the visible range between a wavelength of about 360nm and about 830nm.
  • Optical brighteners can be described by other names in the art and in other industries, such as fluorescent whitening agents, fluorescent brighteners, and fluorescent dyes.
  • optical brighteners herein provide benefits to the hair in three areas.
  • optical brighteners herein enhance the shine of the hair by emitting light in the visible range.
  • optical brighteners herein protect the hair from ultraviolet light by absorbing ultraviolet light.
  • optical brighteners in general are based on the structures of aromatic and heteroaromatic systems which provide these unique characteristics.
  • the optical brighteners useful in the present invention can be classified according to their base structures, as described hereafter.
  • Preferable optical brighteners herein include polystyrylstilbenes, triazinstilbenes, hydroxycoumarins, aminocoumarins, triazoles, pyrazolines, oxazoles, pyrenes, porphyrins, and imidazoles.
  • optical brighteners herein are included in the hair care composition of the present invention at a level by weight of from about 0.001% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%.
  • Polystyrylstilbenes are a class of compounds having two or more of the following base structure:
  • Polystyrylstilbenes useful in the present invention include those having formulae (1), (2) and (3):
  • R101 ⁇ S H, OH, SO3M, COOM, OSO3M, OPO(OH)OM, wherein M is H, Na, K, Ca, Mg, ammonium, mono-, di-, tri- or tetra-C ⁇ -C3o-alkylammonium, mono-, di- or tri-C ⁇ -C3o-hydroxyalkylammonium or ammonium that is di- or tri- substituted with by a mixture of C- ⁇ C3o-alkyl and C ⁇ -C3o-hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • M is as previously defined; and x is 0 or 1 ; wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation or cis-coplanar orientation; preferably x is 1 , R101 is S ⁇ 3Na and R102 an ⁇ - R103 a re H; wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation;
  • R 104 and R 05 independently, are CN, COO(C-j-C3o-alkyl), CONHC ⁇
  • each R106 independently, is H, or alkyl of 1 to 30 carbons; and wherein 140 the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation or cis-coplanar orientation, preferably a trans-coplanar orientation.
  • Suitable polystyrylstilbenes include disodium-1 , 4'-bis(2-sulfostyryl) bisphenyl (Cl. Fluorescent Brightener 351) with tradename Tinopal CBS-X available from Ciba Specialty Chemicals, 1 ,4-bis(2-cyanostyryl)benzene (Cl. 145 Fluorescent Brightener 199), with tradename Ultraphor RN available from BASF. Triazinstilbenes
  • Triazinstilbenes are a class of compounds having both triazin and stilbene structures in the same molecule.
  • Triazinstilbenes useful in the present invention include those having 150 formulae (4):
  • R 107 and R 1 ⁇ independently, are phenylamino, mono- or disulfonated 155 phenylamino, morpholino, N(CH2CH 2 OH)2, N(CH3)(CH 2 CH2 ⁇ H), NH 2 , N(C ⁇
  • An" is an anion of a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate, and M is as previously defined, wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation or cis-coplanar orientation; preferably R10 7 is 2, 5-disulfophenylamino and each R ⁇ 08 is 160 morpholino; or each R ⁇ 07 is 2, 5-disulfophenylamino and each R 1 u 8 is N(C2H 5 ) 2 ; or each R10?
  • each R 108 is 3-sulfophenyl and each R 108 is NH(CH 2 CH 2 OH) or N(CH2CH2 ⁇ H)2; or each R 107 is 4-sulfophenyl and each R 108 is N(CH2CH2 ⁇ H)2; and in each case, the sulfo group is SO3M in which M is sodium; wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation.
  • Suitable triazinstilbenes include 4,4'-bis-[(4-anilino-6-bis(2- hydroxyethyl)amino-1 ,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid with tradename Tinopal UNPA-GX available from Ciba Specialty Chemicals, 4,4'-bis- [(4-anilino-6-morpholine-1 ,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2'-disodium sulfonate with tradename Tinopal AMS-GX available from Ciba Specialty Chemicals, 4,4'-
  • Hydroxycoumarins are a class of compounds having the following base coumarin structure and having at least one hydroxy moiety:
  • Hydroxycoumarins useful in the present invention include those having formulae (5):
  • R201 j s H, OH, Cl, CH3, CH2COOH, CH2SO3H, CH2OSO3H, or CH2 ⁇ PO(OH)OH
  • R202 is H , phenyl, COO-C ⁇
  • R206 a re independently, phenylamino, mono- or disulfonated 200 phenylamino, morpholino, N(CH2CH 2 OH)2, N(CH 3 )(CH2CH 2 OH), NH 2 , N(C ⁇ -
  • Suitable hydroxycoumarins include 6,7-dihydroxycoumarin available from
  • Wako Chemicals 4-methyl-7-hydroxycoumarin available from Wako Chemicals,
  • Aminocoumarins are a class of compounds having the base coumarin structure and having at least one amino moiety.
  • Aminocoumarins useful in the present inventions include those having formulae (8):
  • Suitable aminocoumarins include 4-methyl-7,7'-diethylamino coumarin 220 with tradename Calcofluor-RWP available from BASF, 4-methy 1-7,7'- dimethylamino coumarin with tradename Calcofluor-LD available from BASF. Triazoles
  • Triazoles are a class of compounds having the following base structure:
  • Triazoles useful in the present inventions include those having formulae (9) through (12) and (15) through (20):
  • R 3( 1 and R 8 02 independently, are H, C-
  • An- and M are as previously defined, wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation or cis-coplanar orientation; preferably
  • R 303 is H or Cl
  • R 304 is SO3M, S ⁇ 2N(C ⁇ -C3n-alkyl)2, S ⁇ 2 ⁇ -phenyl or CN
  • M is as previously defined, wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation or cis-coplanar orientation
  • R 3 03 a nd R 3 05 are ⁇ an( j R304 J S SO3M in which M is Na; wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation
  • 245 is preferably R 3 03 a nd R 3 05 are ⁇ an( j R304 J S SO3M in which M is Na; wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation; 245
  • each of R 3 06 a nd R ⁇ 2 independently represents H, a sulfonic acid group or the salts, esters or amides thereof, a carboxylic acid group or the salts,
  • esters or amides thereof a cyano group, a halogen atom, an unsubstituted or substituted alkylsulfonyl, arylsulfonyl, alkyl, alkoxy, aralkyl, aryl, aryloxy, aralkoxy or cycloalkyl radical, an unsubstituted or substituted 5-membered heterocyclic ring containing 2 to 3 nitrogen atoms or one oxygen atom and 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, or together with R ⁇ 7 and R ⁇ 3 they represent a methylenedioxy,
  • each of R 3 ⁇ 7 and R 1 3 independently represents H, a sulfonic acid group or the salts, esters or amides thereof, a carboxylic acid group or the salts, esters or amides thereof, a cyano group, a halogen atom, an unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or alkoxy radical, or
  • R312 represent a methylenedioxy, ethylenedioxy, methylenoxymethylenoxy, trimethylene, tetramethylene, propenylene, butenylene or butadienylene radical
  • R314 independently represents H, a halogen atom or an unsubstituted or substituted alkyl radical
  • each of R 3 09 a nd R 3 11 independently represents H, a halogen atom, a cyano group a sulonic acid
  • R 310 independently represents H, a halogen atom, a cyano group a sulfonic acid group or the salts, alkyl radicals preferably by hydroxy, alkoxy of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, cyano, halogen, carboxy, sulfonic acid groups, carbalkoxy having 1 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkoxy moiety, phenyl
  • alkoxy radicals can be substituted by hydroxy, alkoxy of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, cyano, halogen, carboxy, carbalkoxy having 1 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkoxy moiety, phenyl or phenoxy; phenyl, phenylalkyl or phenoxy radicals can be substituted by halogen, cyano, carboxy, carbalkoxy having 1 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkoxy moiety, sulfo, or alkyl or alkoxy each of 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • cycloalkyl radicals are preferably cyclohexyl and cyclopentyl radicals which can be substituted by alkyl of 1 to 30 carbon atoms; possible 5- membered heterocyclic rings are v-triazole, oxazole or 1 , 3, 4- oxdiazole radicals which can contain as substituents alkyl radicals of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, halogen, 280 phenyl, carboxy, carbalkoxy having 1 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkoxy moiety, cyano, benzyl, alkoxy of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, phenoxy or sulfo, whilst two adjacent substituents of the triazole and oxazole radicals together are able to form a substituted or unsubstituted fused benzene nucleus; wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation
  • Q1 denotes one of the ring systems (13) or (14);
  • R 317 denotes H, alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, cyclohexyl, phenylalkyl with C1-C30 carbon atoms in the alkyl part, phenyl, alkoxy with 1 to
  • R 313 denotes alkylene with 3 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 3 18 denotes H or alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms or, conjointly with R 317 , denotes alkylene with 3 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 319 denotes H or methyl
  • R 32 0 denotes H, alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, phenyl, alkoxy with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or Cl, or, conjointly with R 32 1 , denotes a fused benzene ring
  • R 3 21 denotes H or Cl or conjointly with R 3 20_ denotes a fused benzene ring
  • R 315 denotes H, alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, alkoxy with 1 to 30 carbon atoms or Cl
  • R 316 denotes H or Cl
  • Q 2 denotes H, Cl alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms or phenyl
  • Q 3 denotes H or Cl; wherein the compound has a trans- coplanar orientation or cis-coplanar orientation, preferably a trans-coplanar 305 orientation;
  • R 3 22 denotes H, Cl, methyl, phenyl, benzyl, cyclohexyl or methoxy
  • R323 denotes H or methyl
  • Z denotes O or S
  • the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation or cis-coplanar orientation, preferably a trans-coplanar orientation
  • R 3 24 denotes H, Cl, alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, phenylalkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, phenyl or alkoxy with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or R 3 24 conjointly with R 3 25 denotes a fused benzene radical
  • R 25 denotes H or methyl or R 3 25 conjointly with R 3 24 denotes a fused benzene radical
  • R 3 26 denotes H, alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, alkoxy with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, Cl, carbalkoxy 325 with 1 to 30 carbon atoms or alkylsulfonyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 7 denotes H, Cl, methyl or methoxy; wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation or cis-coplanar orientation, preferably a trans-coplanar orientation.
  • Suitable triazoles include 2-(4-styryl-3-sulfophenyl)-2H-naptho[1 ,2-d] triazole (Cl. Fluorescent Brightener 46) with tradename Tinopal RBS available 330 from Ciba Specialty Chemicals. Pyrazolines
  • Pyrazolines are a class of compounds having the following base structure:
  • Pyrazolines useful in the present invention include those having formulae (21) through (23):
  • R 0 is H, Cl or N(C ⁇ -C 3 o-alkyl) 2
  • R 402 is H, Cl, SO3M, SO2NH2, S ⁇ 2NH-(C-
  • An-, R 4 ° 3 and R 404 are the same or different and each is H, C-
  • An- and M are as previously defined, preferably R 4 0 1 is Cl, R 4 °2 is SO2CH2 CH2N + H(C ⁇ -C 4 -alkyl) 2 An- in which An" is phosphite and R 403 , R
  • Suitable pyrazolines include 1-(4-amidosulfonylphenyl)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)- 2-pyrazoline (Cl. Fluorescent Brightener 121) with tradename Blankophor DCB available from Bayer, 1-[4-(2-sulfoethylsulfonyl)phenyl]-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-2- 355 pyrazoline, 1 -[4-(2-sulfoethylsulfonyl)phenyl]-3-(3,4-dichloro-6-methylphenyl)-2- pyrazoline, 1- ⁇ 4- ⁇ N-[3-(N,N,N-trimethylammonio)propyl]-amidosulfonyl ⁇ phenyl>- 3-(4-chlorophenyl)-2-pyrazoline methylsulfate, and 1- ⁇ 4- ⁇ 2-[1-methyl-2-(N,N- dimethylamino)ethoxy]e
  • Oxazoles are a class of compounds having the following base structure:
  • R501 an d R 502 independently, are H, Cl, C-
  • R 5 0 3 independently, is H, C(CH3)3, C(CH3)2-phenyl, C-
  • -C3oalkyl or COO-C-i-Csoalkyl, preferably H and Q 4 is -CH CH-;
  • R 504 is CN, Cl, COO-C-
  • R 505 and R 506 are the atoms required to form a fused benzene ring or R506 anc j R508 independently, are H or C «
  • the 395 compound has a trans-coplanar orientation or cis-coplanar orientation
  • R504 JS a 4-phenyl group and each of R505 1 0 R508 J S ⁇ ; wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation
  • R509 denotes H, Cl, alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, cyclohexyl, phenylalkyl with 1 to 3 carbon atoms in the alkyl part, phenyl or alkoxy with 1 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 51 ⁇ denotes H or alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Q 5 denotes a radical
  • R 5 ⁇ 1 represents H, alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, alkoxy with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, Cl, carbalkoxy with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, unsubstituted sulfamoyl or sulfamoyl which is monosubstituted or disubstituted by alkyl or hydroxyalkyl 4io with 1 to 30 carbon atoms or represents alkylsulfonyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms; wherein the compound has a trans-coplanar orientation or cis-coplanar orientation, preferably a trans-coplanar orientation.
  • Suitable oxazoles include 4,4'-bis(5-methylbenzoxazol-2-yl)stilbene, and
  • Pyrenes useful in the present invention include those having formulae (28) and (29):
  • each R601 f independently, is C «
  • each R602 independently, is H, OH, or SO3M, wherein M is as previously defined, sulfonated phenylamino, or anilino.
  • Suitable pyrenes include 2,4-dimethoxy-6-(1'-pyrenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (Cl. Fluorescent Brightener 179) with tradename Fluolite XMF, 8-hydroxy-1 ,3,6- pyrenetrisulfonic acid (D&C Green N0.8), and 3-hydroxy-5,8,10-trisulphanilic
  • Porphyrins useful in the present invention include those having formulae (30), (31), and (32):
  • R 701 is CH3 or CHO
  • R 702 is H or COOC ⁇
  • R 703 is H or 440 an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbons
  • each R 704 independently, is H, SO3M, COOM, OSO3M, or 445 OPO(OH)OM, wherein M is as previously defined, halide, or alkyl of 1 to 30 carbons; and Q ⁇ is Cu, Mg, Fe, Cr, Co, or mixtures thereof with cationic charges.
  • Suitable porphyrins include porphyrin available from Wako Chemicals and
  • Copper II phthalocyanine available from Wako Chemicals.
  • Imidazoles 450 Imidazoles are a class of compounds having the following base structure:
  • Imidazoles useful in the present invention include those having formulae
  • Suitable imidazoles include those with tradename of Cl. Fluorescence Brightener 352, or Uvtex AT available from Ciba Speciality Chemical. NON-VOLATILE SOLVENTS
  • the non-volatile solvents solubilize the optical brightener.
  • optical brightener As used herein,
  • non-volatile means having a boiling point greater than about 100°C
  • the non-volative solvent is capable of dissolving at least 0.01 wt% of the optical brightener.
  • Optical brighteners in a water or ethanol solution can make the hair look dull or dusty after the water or ethanol has
  • Non-volatile solvents useful herein include alkyl alcohols having more than 3 carbons, and polyhydric alcohols.
  • the polyhydric alcohols useful herein include 1 ,2-propane diol or propylene glycol, 1 ,3-propane diol, hexylene glycol, 485 glycerin, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,2-butylene glycol, and 1 ,4- butylene glycol.
  • the hair care compositions of the present invention contain at least about 0.1 wt% of the non-volatile solvent.
  • the hair care compositions of the present invention may comprise a 490 carrier.
  • the level and species of the carrier are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and desired characteristic of the product.
  • the carrier useful in the present invention include volatile solvents, propellants, and mixtures thereof.
  • Volatile solvents useful herein include water, lower alkyl alcohols having
  • the preferred volatile solvents are water, ethanol, isopropanol, pentane, hexane, and heptane.
  • the water useful herein include deionized water and water from natural sources containing mineral cations. Deionized water is preferred.
  • Propellants may be used for mousse and hair spray product forms.
  • 500 Propellants when used in the present invention, are selected depending on variables such as the remainder of components, the package, and whether the product is designed to be used standing or invert.
  • Propellants useful herein include fluorohydrocarbons such as difluoroethane 152a (supplied by DuPont), dimethylether, and hydrocarbons such
  • the hair care compositions of the present invention may comprise a
  • Product forms useful herein include, but are not limited to, shampoo, conditioner, treatment, mousse, spray, lotion, gel, and cream products, all of which can be designed for rinse-off or leave-on convenience.
  • Product functions useful herein include, but are not limited to, cleansing, and conditioning products. For example, a detersive
  • surfactant a hair conditioning agent, and mixtures thereof may be comprised.
  • the components and their levels are selected by one skilled in the art depending on the desired characteristic of the product. DETERSIVE SURFACTANT
  • compositions herein may include a detersive surfactant.
  • the detersive surfactant may include a detersive surfactant.
  • surfactants herein are those suitable for cleansing the hair.
  • Detersive surfactants useful herein include anionic surfactants, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and nonionic surfactants.
  • the detersive surfactants when present, are preferably included at a level of from about 0.01% to about 75% by weight of the composition. Two or more
  • Anionic surfactants useful herein include alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. These materials have the respective formulae ROSOgM and RO(C 2 H 4 0) ⁇ S0 3 M, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 8 to about 30
  • M is hydrogen or a cation such as ammonium, alkanolammonium (e.g., triethanolammonium), a monovalent metal cation (e.g., sodium and potassium), or a polyvalent metal cation (e.g., magnesium and calcium).
  • M should be chosen such that the anionic surfactant component is water soluble.
  • the Krafft temperature is about 15°C or less, preferably about 10°C or less, and more preferably about 0°C or less. It is also preferred that the anionic surfactant be soluble in the composition hereof.
  • Krafft temperature refers to the point at which solubility of an ionic surfactant becomes determined by crystal lattice energy and heat of hydration
  • Krafft temperature for ionic surfactants is, in general, well known and understood in the art. See, for example, Myers, Drew, Surfactant Science and Technology, pp. 82-85, VCH Publishers, Inc. (New York,
  • R has from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms in both the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates.
  • the alkyl ether sulfates are typically made as condensation products of ethylene
  • the alcohols can be derived from fats, e.g., coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, or the like, or the alcohols can be synthetic. Lauryl alcohol and straight chain alcohols derived from coconut oil and palm oil are preferred herein. Such alcohols are reacted with 1 to about 10, and especially about 3, molar proportions of ethylene
  • alkyl ether sulfates which can be used are sodium and ammonium salts of coconut alkyl triethylene glycol ether sulfate; tallow alkyl
  • alkyl ether sulfates are those comprising a mixture of individual compounds, said mixture having an average alkyl chain length of from about 8 to about 16 carbon atoms and an average degree of ethoxylation of from 1 to about 4 moles of ethylene oxide. Such a mixture also comprises from 0% to about 20%
  • anionic surfactants are the water-soluble salts of organic, sulfuric acid reaction products of the general formula [RI-SO3-M] where R 1 is
  • surfactants are the salts of an organic sulfuric acid reaction product of a hydrocarbon of the methane series, including iso-, neo-,
  • n-paraffins having about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and a sulfonating agent, e.g., SO3, H2SO4, obtained according to known sulfonation methods, including bleaching and hydrolysis.
  • a sulfonating agent e.g., SO3, H2SO4
  • alkali metal and ammonium sulfonated C8_18 n-paraffins are preferred.
  • anionic surfactants suitable for use in the shampoo compositions are the ⁇ -alkyloxy alkane sulfonates. These compounds have the following formula:
  • R 1 is a straight chain alkyl group having from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is a lower alkyl group having from about 1 , preferred, to about 3 carbon atoms
  • M is as hereinbefore described.
  • anionic surfactants suitable for use in the shampoo compositions are described in
  • Preferred anionic surfactants for use in the shampoo compositions include ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, triethylamine lauryl sulfate, triethylamine laureth
  • anionic surfactants for use herein include polyhydrophilic anionic surfactants.
  • polyhydrophilic herein, is meant a surfactant that has at least two hydrophilic groups which provide a hydrophilic nature.
  • Polyhydrophilic surfactants useful herein are only those having at least two hydrophilic groups in the molecule, and is not intended to encompass those which only have one
  • polyhydrophilic anionic surfactant herein may comprise the same hydrophilic groups, or different hydrophilic groups.
  • the polyhydrophilic anionic surfactants comprise at least one group selected from the group consisting of carboxy, hydroxy, sulfate, sulfonate, and phosphate. Suitable polyhydrophilic anionic surfactants are those which
  • 625 comprise at least one of a carboxy, sulfate, or sulfonate group, more preferably those which comprise at least one carboxy group.
  • Nonlimiting examples of polyhydrophilic anionic surfactants include N-acyl- L-glutamates such as N-cocoyl-L-glutamate and, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate, laurimino diproprionate, N-acyl-L-aspartate, di-(N-lauroyl N-methyl taurate),
  • polyoxyethylene laurylsulfosuccinate disodium N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate; diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate; tetra sodium N-(1 ,2-dicarboxyethyl)-N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; the diamyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid; the dihexyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid; and the dioctyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid, and 2-cocoalkyl N-carboxyethyl N-
  • R is an alkyl of 8 to 18 carbons.
  • Other polyhydrophilic anionic surfactants include olefin sulfonates having about 10 to about 24 carbon atoms.
  • olefin sulfonates is used herein to mean compounds which can be produced by the sulfonation of alpha-olefins by means of uncomplexed sulfur trioxide, followed by neutralization of the acid reaction mixture in conditions such
  • the sulfur trioxide can be liquid or gaseous, and is usually, but not necessarily, diluted by inert diluents, for example by liquid SO2, chlorinated hydrocarbons, etc., when used in the liquid form, or by air, nitrogen, gaseous SO2, etc., when used in the gaseous form.
  • inert diluents for example by liquid SO2, chlorinated hydrocarbons, etc., when used in the liquid form, or by air, nitrogen, gaseous SO2, etc., when used in the gaseous form.
  • the olefin sulfonates are mono-olefins having about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably about 10 to about 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are straight chain olefins. In addition to the true alkene sulfonates and a proportion of hydroxy-alkanesulfonates, the olefin sulfonates can contain minor amounts of other materials, such as alkene disulfonates
  • polyhydrophilic anionic surfactants are amino acid surfactants which are surfactants that have the basic chemical structure of an amino acid compound, i.e., that contains a structural component of one of the naturally-occurring amino acids. It is understood by the artisan that some surfactants may be regarded as both a polyhydrophilic anionic surfactant, and an
  • Nonlimiting examples of amino acid surfactants include, N- cocoylalaninate, N-acyl-N-methyl- ⁇ -alanate, N-acylsarcosinate; N-alkylamino propionates and N-alkyliminodipropionates, specific examples of which include N-lauryl- ⁇ -amino propionic acid or salts thereof, and N-lauryl- ⁇ -imino- dipropionate, N-acyl-DL-alaninate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, lauryl sarcosine, cocoyl sarcosine, N-acyl-N-methyl taurate, lauroyl taurate, and lauroyl lactylate.
  • anionic surfactants suitable are N-acyl-L- glutamate with a tradename AMISOFT CT-12S, N-acyl potassiumglycine with a tradename AMILITE GCK-12, lauroyl glutamate with a tradename AMISOFT LS- 1 1 , and N-acyl-DL-alaninate with tradename AMILITE ACT12 supplied by Ajinomoto; acylaspartate with tradenames ASPARACK and AAS supplied by Mitsubishi Chemical; and acyl derivaties of tradename ED3A supplied by Hampshire Chemical Corp.
  • the counter ion of anionic surfactants may be polyvalent cations.
  • Cationic conditioning agents may be included in the present composition to provide a shampoo which both cleanse and condition the hair from a single product.
  • Coacervate formulation is dependent upon a variety of criteria such as molecular weight, component concentration, and ratio of interacting ionic components ionic strength, charge density of the cationic and anionic components, pH, and temperature. Coacervate systems and the effect of these parameters are known in the art.
  • the anionic surfactants and the polyvalent metal cations at certain levels are believed to readily deposit on the hair upon diluting the coacervate with abundant water, i.e., rinsing of the shampoo.
  • the coacervates provide two major effects to the present shampoo composition.
  • CMC Critical Micelle Concentration
  • the reduction of the CMC relates to reduction of the surface tension, thereby improving lather performance.
  • the cationic conditioning agents in the composition are mainly delivered to the hair via these coacervates, expansion of the coacervate region results in delivery of more cationic conditioning agents to the hair. Consequently, 710 compositions which both cleanse and condition the hair from a single product, which have improved overall conditioning benefits and improved lathering are provided.
  • coacervate phase can be utilized to identify whether a coacervate phase has formed.
  • Such coacervate phase will be identifiable as an additional emulsified phase in the composition.
  • the use of dyes can aid in distinguishing the coacervate phase from other insoluble phases dispersed in the shampoo composition.
  • Amphoteric surfactants for use herein include the derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical is straight or branched and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic water solubilizing group, e.g.,
  • Zwitterionic surfactants for use herein include the derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium, and sulfonium compounds, in which the aliphatic radicals are straight or branched, and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains
  • an anionic group e.g., carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate.
  • a general formula for these compounds is:
  • R contains an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxy alkyl radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety;
  • Y is selected from the group consisting of nitrogen,
  • R is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to about 3 carbon atoms
  • X is 1 when Y is a sulfur atom, and 2 when
  • Y is a nitrogen or phosphorus atom
  • R is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene of from
  • amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants also include sultaines and amidosultaines.
  • Sultaines, including amidosultaines include for example, cocodimethylpropylsultaine, stearyldimethylpropylsultaine, lauryl-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)propylsultaine and the like; and the amidosultaines such as cocamidodimethylpropylsultaine, stearylamidododimethylpropylsultaine,
  • laurylamido-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)propylsultaine and the like.
  • amidohydroxysultaines such as the C8 ⁇ Ci8 hydrocarbylamidopropyl hydroxysultaines, especially C8-C14 hydrocarbylamidopropylhydroxysultaines, e.g., laurylamidopropylhydroxysultaine and cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine.
  • Other sultaines are described in U.S. Patent 3,950,417, which is incorporated
  • amphoteric surfactants are the aminoalkanoates of the formula RNH(CH2) n COOM, the iminodialkanoates of the formula RN[(CH2)mCOOM]2 and mixtures thereof; wherein n and m are numbers from 1 to about 4, R is C8 - C22 alkyl or alkenyl, and M is hydrogen, alkali metal,
  • alkaline earth metal ammonium or alkanolammonium.
  • amphoteric surfactants include those represented by the formula :
  • R1 is Cs - C22 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably Cg - C ⁇ Q
  • R2 and R 3 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, -CH2CO2M, - CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH2CH2OCH2CH2COOM, or -(CH2CH2 ⁇ ) m H wherein m is an integer from 1 to about 25, and R 4 is hydrogen, -CH2CH2OH, or CH2CH2OCH2CH2COOM, Z is CO2M or CH2CO2M, n is 2 or 3, preferably 2, M
  • alkali metal e.g., lithium, sodium, potassium
  • alkaline earth metal beryllium, magnesium, calcium, strontium, barium
  • ammonium e.g., ammonium
  • This type of surfactant is sometimes classified as an imidazoline- type amphoteric surfactant, although it should be recognized that it does not necessarily have to be derived, directly or indirectly, through an imidazoline
  • Suitable materials of this type are marketed under the tradename MIRANOL and are understood to comprise a complex mixture of species, and can exist in protonated and non-protonated species depending upon pH with respect to species that can have a hydrogen at R . All such variations and species are meant to be encompassed by the above formula.
  • surfactants of the above formula are monocarboxylates and di-carboxylates.
  • examples of these materials include cocoamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxypropionic acid, cocoamphocarboxyglycinate (alternately referred to as cocoamphodiacetate), and cocoamphoacetate.
  • Betaine surfactants i.e. zwitterionic surfactants, suitable for use in the conditioning compositions are those represented by the formula:
  • Rl is a member selected from the group consisting of COOM and CH(OH)CH 2 S03M
  • R 2 is lower alkyl or hydroxyalkyl
  • R 3 is lower alkyl or hydroxyalkyl
  • R 4 is a member selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and lower alkyl
  • R 5 is higher alkyl or alkenyl
  • Y is lower alkyl, preferably methyl
  • m is an integer from 2
  • lower alkyl or hydroxyalkyl means straight or branch chained, saturated, aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals and substituted hydrocarbon radicals having from one to about three carbon atoms such as, for example, methyl, ethyl,
  • higher alkyl or alkenyl means straight or branch chained saturated (i.e., “higher alkyl”) and unsaturated (i.e., “higher alkenyl”) aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals having from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms such as, for example, lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, and the like. It should be understood that the term "higher alkyl or alkenyl"
  • radical 820 includes mixtures of radicals which may contain one or more intermediate linkages such as ether or polyether linkages or non-functional substituents such as hydroxyl or halogen radicals wherein the radical remains of hydrophobic character.
  • alkylbetaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethyl- ⁇ -carboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryl- bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-carboxymethylbetaine, stearyl-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethyl- ⁇ -carboxypropylbetaine, lauryl-bis-(2-
  • the sulfobetaines may be represented by cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryl-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-sulfopropylbetaine, and the like.
  • amido betaines and amidosulfobetaines useful in the conditioning compositions include the amidocarboxybetaines, such as cocamido
  • amidosulfobetaines may be represented by cocamidodimethyl sulfopropylbetaine, stearylamidodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, laurylamido-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-carboxymethylbetaine, etc.
  • the amidosulfobetaines may be represented by cocamidodimethyl sulfopropylbetaine, stearylamidodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, laurylamido-bis-(2-
  • Nonionic Surfactant 840 hydroxyethyl)-sulfopropylbetaine, and the like.
  • compositions of the present invention can comprise a nonionic surfactant.
  • Nonionic surfactants include those compounds produced by condensation of alkylene oxide groups, hydrophilic in nature, with an organic
  • hydrophobic compound which may be aliphatic or alkyl aromatic in nature.
  • nonionic surfactants for use in the shampoo compositions include the following:
  • polyethylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols e.g., the condensation products of alkyl phenols having an alkyl group containing from
  • R1 R2R 3 N ⁇ O long chain tertiary amine oxides of the formula [ R1 R2R 3 N ⁇ O ] where R 1 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxy alkyl radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties, and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety, and R2 and R 3 contain from about 1 to about 3
  • R' and R" are each alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms;
  • long chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing one short chain alkyl or hydroxy alkyl radical of from 1 to about 3 carbon atoms (usually methyl) and one long hydrophobic chain which include alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxy alkyl, or keto alkyl
  • alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants e.g. alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants
  • alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants e.g. alkyl polyglycosides
  • hydrophobic group with about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide (e.g., polyglycoside) as the hydrophilic group; optionally, there can be a polyalkylene-oxide group joining the hydrophobic and hydrophilic moieties; and the alkyl group (i.e., the hydrophobic moiety) can be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and unsubstituted or substituted (e.g., with hydroxy or
  • alkyl polyglucoside which is commercially available from Henkel, ICI Americas, and Seppic;
  • polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as those of the formula RO(CH2CH2)nH and polyethylene glycol (PEG) glyceryl fatty esters, such as those of the formula R(0)OCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2) n OH, wherein n is from 890 1 to about 200, preferably from about 20 to about 100, and R is an alkyl having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
  • PEG polyethylene glycol
  • Conditioning agents useful herein include cationic surfactants, high melting point compounds, oily compounds, cationic polymers, silicone 895 compounds, and nonionic polymers. Conditioning agents may be present in the compositions herein either in combination with detersive surfactant, or without detersive surfactant.
  • the cationic surfactants useful herein are any known to the artisan. 900 Among the cationic surfactants useful herein are those corresponding to the general formula (I):
  • R1 , R2, R 3 , and R 4 is selected from an aliphatic group of
  • R1 , R2, R3_ and R 4 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms, the remainder of R1 , R2, R3_ and R 4 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to
  • X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals.
  • halogen e.g. chloride, bromide
  • acetate citrate
  • lactate glycolate
  • phosphate nitrate
  • sulfonate sulfate
  • alkylsulfate alkylsulfate
  • alkyl sulfonate radicals alkylsulfonate radicals.
  • the aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
  • 920 aliphatic groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated. Preferred is when R1 , R2, R 3 , and R 4 are independently selected from C-
  • Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-8, quatemium-24, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33,
  • quaternium-43 quaternium-52, quatemium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-72, quaternium-75, quaternium-77, quaternium-78, quaternium-80, quaternium-81 , quaternium-82, quaternium-83, quaternium-84, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants in which
  • At least one of the substituents contain one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, wherein at least one of the Rl - R 4 radicals contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy (preferably Ci - C3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably C-
  • hydrophilically substituted cationic conditioning surfactant contains from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophile moieties located within the above stated ranges.
  • Preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include those of the formula (II) through (VII) below:
  • n is from 8 to about 28, x+y is from 2 to about 40, Z ⁇ is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C ⁇
  • R 955 wherein m is 1 to 5, one or more of R 5 , R6, and R 7 are independently an C-
  • Z2 is an alkyl, preferably a Ci - C3 alkyl, more preferably methyl
  • Z 3 is a short chain hydroxyalkyl, preferably hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl
  • p and q 970 independently are integers from 2 to 4, inclusive, preferably from 2 to 3, inclusive, more preferably 2
  • R 1 1 and R 12 _ independently are substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyls, preferably C12 - C20 alkyl or alkenyl
  • X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • R 13 is a hydrocarbyl, preferably a C1 - C3 alkyl, more preferably methyl
  • Z 4 and Z5 are, independently, short chain hydrocarbyls, preferably C2 - C4 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably ethyl
  • a is from 2 to about 40, preferably from about 7 to about 30, and
  • X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • R ⁇ 4 and R 15 are C-
  • Z 6 is a C12 - C22 hydrocarbyl, alkyl carboxy or alkylamido
  • A is a protein, preferably a collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soy protein, wheat protein, or 995 hydrolyzed forms thereof
  • X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • Rl7 wherein b is 2 or 3, R 16 and R 17 , independently are C-
  • hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium- 61 , quaternium-71 , quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, and quaternium-79
  • Salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable cationic surfactants.
  • the alkyl groups of such amines preferably have from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and can be substituted or unsubstituted.
  • amido substituted tertiary fatty amines are amido substituted tertiary fatty amines.
  • Such amines useful herein, include stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine,
  • dimethylstearamine dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine.
  • acids such as L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic
  • the cationic surfactants for use herein may also include a plurality of ammonium quaternary moieties or amino moieties, or a mixture thereof.
  • compositions may comprise a high melting point compound having a melting point of at least about 25°C selected from the group consisting of fatty
  • fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives.
  • a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the
  • certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than about 25°C Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section.
  • Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth
  • the fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or
  • Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be
  • fatty acids straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substitued fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols alkoxylated fatty alcohols
  • alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols esters of fatty alcohols
  • fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups hydroxy-substitued fatty acids
  • 1080 derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol,
  • ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10 which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and
  • ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol
  • Hydrocarbons useful herein include compounds having at least about 20 carbons.
  • Steroids useful herein include compounds such as cholesterol.
  • High melting point compounds of a single compound of high purity are preferred.
  • Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are highly preferred.
  • pure herein, what is meant is that the compound has a purity of at least about
  • high melting point compounds useful herein include: cetyl alchol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames mo KONOL series available from New Japan Chemical (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol having tradename 1-DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin Ohio, USA), and DERMA
  • compositions comprise an oily compound having a melting point of not more than about 25°C selected from the group consisting of a first oily
  • the oily compounds useful herein may be volatile or nonvolatile. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, the oily compounds may penetrate the hair to modify the hydroxy bonds of the hair, thereby resulting in providing softness and flexibility to the hair.
  • the oily compound may comprise either the first oily compound or the second
  • oily compound as described herein.
  • a mixture of the first oily compound and the second oily compound is used.
  • the oily compounds of this section are to be distinguished from the high melting point compounds described above.
  • Nonlimiting examples of the oily compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic
  • the fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and
  • These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols.
  • Nonlimiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alchol, undecanol, octyl dodecanol, octyl decanol, octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol,
  • the fatty acids useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable
  • 1145 fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinolic acid.
  • the fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives are defined herein to include, for example, esters of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, and mixtures
  • Nonlimiting examples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecyl isopalmitate, octyl isopelargonate, octyl
  • first oily compounds useful herein include: oleyl alcohol with tradename UNJECOL 90BHR available from New Japan Chemical,
  • Second Oily Compound The second oily compounds useful herein include straight chain, cyclic,
  • hydrocarbons which can be either saturated or unsaturated, so long as they have a melting point of not more than about 25°C
  • hydrocarbons have from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms.
  • polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl are also encompassed herein.
  • 1175 monomers such as polymers of C2-6 alkenyl monomers.
  • These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers.
  • the straight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon atoms as described above.
  • the branched chain polymers can have substantially higher chain lengths. The number average molecular weight of such materials can vary
  • Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane,
  • hydrocarbons selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.
  • 1190 isododecane, isohexadeance, and isoeicosene with tradenames PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 101 A, and PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfield New Jersey, USA), a copolymer of isobutene and normal butene with tradenames INDOPOL H-100 available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago Illinois, USA), mineral oil with tradename BENOL available from Witco,
  • polymer shall include materials whether made by polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers.
  • the cationic polymer is a water-soluble cationic polymer.
  • water soluble cationic polymer what is meant is a polymer which is sufficiently
  • the preferred polymer will be sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at 0.5% concentration, more preferably at 1.0% concentration.
  • the cationic polymers hereof will generally have a weight average i2io molecular weight which is at least about 5,000, typically at least about 10,000, and is less than about 10 million. Preferably, the molecular weight is from about 100,000 to about 2 million.
  • the cationic polymers will generally have cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such as quaternary ammonium or cationic amino moieties, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic charge density is preferably at least about 0.1 meq/gram, more preferably at least about 1.5 meq/gram, even more preferably at least about 1.1 meq/gram, still more preferably at least about 1.2 meq/gram.
  • Cationic charge density of the cationic polymer can be determined according to the Kjeldahl Method. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the charge density of
  • 1220 amino-containing polymers may vary depending upon pH and the isoelectric point of the amino groups.
  • the charge density should be within the above limits at the pH of intended use.
  • Any anionic counterions can be utilized for the cationic polymers so long as the water solubility criteria is met.
  • Suitable counterions include halides (e.g.,
  • the cationic nitrogen-containing moiety will be present generally as a substituent, on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning polymers.
  • the cationic polymer can comprise copolymers,
  • Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl
  • alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C-
  • suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (made by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.
  • the cationic amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred.
  • Amine-substituted vinyl monomers can be polymerized in the amine form, and then optionally can be converted to ammonium by a quaternization reaction.
  • Amines can also be similarly quaternized subsequent to formation of the polymer.
  • tertiary amine functionalities can be quaternized by reaction with a salt of the formula R'X wherein R' is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C-
  • Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryioxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and vinyl
  • quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts.
  • the alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the C-
  • dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C-
  • the cationic polymers hereof can comprise mixtures of monomer units
  • Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance
  • CTFA 1275 Association, "CTFA", as Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2- pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially available from Gaf
  • GAFQUAT tradename e.g., GAFQUAT 755N
  • cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry
  • CTFA Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; and mineral 1285 acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo- and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, as described in U.S. Patent
  • cationic polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. 1290 Cationic polysaccharide polymer materials suitable for use herein include those of the formula:
  • A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual
  • R is an alkylene oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or
  • R1 , R2, and R 3 independently are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R1 , R and R 3 ) preferably being about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion, as previously
  • Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.
  • CTFA trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide
  • Another type of cationic cellulose includes the i3io polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200®.
  • cationic polymers that can be used include cationic guar gum
  • 1315 derivatives such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (commercially available from Celanese Corp. in their Jaguar R series).
  • Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418, incorporated herein by reference), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581 , incorporated 1320 herein by reference.)
  • the conditioning agents useful herein include silicone compounds.
  • the silicone compounds hereof can include volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents.
  • soluble what is meant is that 1325 the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase.
  • insoluble what is meant is that the silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or a suspension of droplets of the silicone.
  • Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, 1330 polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonvolatile silicone compounds having hair conditioning properties can also be used.
  • silicone compounds herein also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes with the following structure (I)
  • R is alkyl or aryl
  • x is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000.
  • A represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains. The alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R) or at the ends of the siloxane chains
  • a 1345 (A) can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other components of the composition, is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and is capable of being deposited on and conditions the hair.
  • Suitable A groups include hydroxy,
  • the two R groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group or different groups.
  • the two R groups represent the same group.
  • Suitable R groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl.
  • the preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiioxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and
  • polymethylphenylsiloxane polymethylphenylsiloxane.
  • Polydimethylsiioxane which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred.
  • the polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, po ⁇ ydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in their ViscasilR and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series.
  • Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
  • the silicone compounds that can be used include, for example, a polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiioxane although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also be used.
  • the ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level should be sufficiently low so as not to
  • Suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those represented by the following structure (II)
  • R is CH3 or OH
  • x and y are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the average molecular weight being approximately between 5,000 and 1395 10,000.
  • This polymer is also known as "amodimethicone”.
  • Suitable amino substituted silicone fluids include those represented by the formula (III)
  • R2 is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and A " denotes a halide ion.
  • An especially preferred amino substituted silicone corresponding to 1415 formula (III) is the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", of formula (IV): CH3 OH
  • n and m are selected depending on the exact molecular 1430 weight of the compound desired.
  • R 3 denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as methyl;
  • R4 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a Ci - C-
  • Ci - C ⁇ , alkyleneoxy radical is a halide ion, preferably chloride
  • r denotes an average statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8
  • s denotes an average statistical value from 20 to 200, and preferably from 20 to 50.
  • a preferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide under the name "UCAR SILICONE ALE 56.”
  • silicone gum Another nonvolatile dispersed silicone that can be especially useful is a silicone gum.
  • silicone gum means a
  • silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials. Silicone gums are described by Petrarch, and others including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416, to
  • silicone gums will typically have a mass molecular weight in
  • silicone resins which are highly crosslinked polymeric
  • the crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of tri- functional and tetra-functional silanes with mono-functional or di-functional, or both, silanes during manufacture of the silicone resin.
  • the degree of crosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resin will vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone
  • silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a sufficient level of crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins.
  • the ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of crosslinking in a particular silicone material.
  • silicone resins 1485 have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins herein.
  • the ratio of oxygen:silicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1.0.
  • Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted
  • silicone resins 1490 silanes being most commonly utilized.
  • Preferred resins are offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267.
  • Commercially available silicone resins will generally be supplied in a dissolved form in a low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluid.
  • the silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated into the present compositions in such dissolved form, as will be
  • silicone resins can enhance deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and can enhance the glossiness of hair with high refractive index volumes.
  • silicone resin powders such as the
  • Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular can conveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units which i5io make up the silicone.
  • M denotes the mono-functional unit (CH3)3SiO) 5
  • D denotes the difunctional unit (CH3)2SiO
  • T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH3)SiO-
  • Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit Si ⁇ 2- Primes of the unit symbols, e.g., M', D', T, and Q' denote substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence.
  • alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, etc.
  • the molar ratios of the various units either in terms of subscripts to the symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an average thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular weight, complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system.
  • silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ,
  • the preferred silicone substituent is methyl.
  • MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000.
  • Nonionic polymers useful herein include cellulose derivatives, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, ethylene oxide polymers, and ethylene oxide/propylene oxide based polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are cellulose derivatives including methylcellulose with tradename BENECEL, hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename NATROSOL, hydroxypropyl cellulose with
  • the polyalkylene glycol is typically used at a level from about 0.025% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1 %, and more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 0.5% of the compositions.
  • polyalkylene glycols are characterized by the general formula:
  • R is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, and mixtures thereof.
  • these materials are polymers of ethylene oxide, which are also known as polyethylene oxides, polyoxyethylenes, and polyethylene glycols.
  • R is methyl
  • these materials are polymers of propylene oxide, which are also known as polypropylene oxides, polyoxypropylenes, and polypropylene
  • n has an average value of from about 1500 to about 25,000, preferably from about 2500 to about 20,000, and more preferably from about 3500 to about 15,000.
  • Polyethylene glycol polymers useful herein are PEG-2M wherein R equals H and n has an average value of about 2,000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-10, which is available from Union Carbide and as PEG-2,000); PEG-5M wherein R equals H and n has an average value of about 5,000 (PEG-5M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 and Polyox WSR® N-80, both available from
  • PEG-7M wherein R equals H and n has an average value of about 7,000
  • PEG-9M wherein R equals H and n has an average value of about 9,000
  • PEG 9-M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333 available from Union Carbide
  • PEG-14 M wherein
  • n has an average value of about 14,000 (PEG-14M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3000 available from Union Carbide).
  • Other useful polymers include the polypropylene glycols and mixed polyethylene/polypropylene glycols.
  • compositions of the present invention may include a variety of additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product. Additional components include, for example, polyvalent metal cations, suspending agents, and other additional components.
  • Suitable polyvalent metal cations include divalent and trivalent metals, divalent metals being preferred.
  • Exemplary metal cations include alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, calcium, zinc, and copper, and trivalent metals such as aluminum and iron. Preferred are calcium and magnesium.
  • the polyvalent metal cation can be added as an inorganic salt, organic salt, or as a hydroxide.
  • the polyvalent metal cation may also be added as a salt with anionic surfactants as mentioned above.
  • the polyvalent metal cation is introduced as an inorganic salt or organic salt.
  • Inorganic salts include chloride, bromide, iodine, nitrate, or sulfate,
  • Organic salts include L-glutamate, lactate, malate, succinate, acetate, fumarate, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, and tartarate.
  • anionic surfactant 1595 into the compositions hereof, only a fraction of the anionic surfactant may be of polyvalent form, the remainder of the anionic surfactant being necessarily added in monovalent form.
  • Hardness of the conditioning shampoo compositions can be measured by standard methods in the art, such as by ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA)
  • composition contains dyes or other color materials that interfere with the ability of EDTA titration to yield a perceptible color change, hardness should be determined fro the composition in the absence of the interfering dye or color.
  • a preferred additional component is a suspending agent, particularly for compositions comprising silicone compounds of high viscosity and/or large particle size.
  • the suspending agent is in dispersed form in the compositions.
  • the suspending agent will generally comprise from about 0.1 % to about 10%, and more typically from about 0.3% to about 5.0%, by weight, of the i6io composition.
  • Preferred suspending agents include acyl derivatives such as ethylene glycol stearates, both mono and distearate, long chain amine oxides such as alkyl (C16-C22) dimethyl amine oxides, e.g., stearyl dimethyl amine oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • acyl derivatives such as ethylene glycol stearates, both mono and distearate
  • long chain amine oxides such as alkyl (C16-C22) dimethyl amine oxides, e.g., stearyl dimethyl amine oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • suspending agents are present in the composition in crystalline form. These suspending agents are described in U.S. Patent 4,741 ,855.
  • suspending agents include alkanol amides of fatty acids, preferably having from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably about 16 to 18 carbon atoms, preferred examples of which include stearic
  • suspending agents include N,N-dihydrocarbyl amido benzoic acid and soluble salts thereof (e.g., Na and K salts), particularly N.N-di(hydrogenated) C15, C-
  • suspending agents include xanthan gum.
  • xanthan gum as a suspending agent in silicone containing shampoo compositions is described, for example, in U.S. Patent 4,788,006, which is
  • Combinations of long chain acyl derivatives and xanthan gum may also be used as a suspending agent in the shampoo compositions. Such combinations are described in U.S. Patent 4,704,272, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • suspending agents include carboxyvinyl polymers.
  • polymers 1635 Preferred among these polymers are the copolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with polyallylsucrose as described in U.S. Patent 2,798,053, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • examples of these polymers include the carbomers, which are hompolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythrotol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of
  • Neutralizers may be required, for example, amino methyl propanol, triethanol amine, or sodium hydroxide.
  • suspending agents can be used in the compositions, including those that can impart a gel-like viscosity to the composition, such as water soluble or colloidally water soluble polymers like cellulose ethers such as
  • compositions include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available form Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; hair-fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative
  • polymers cationic fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, and silicone grafted copolymers; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, in general, such as potassium acetate and
  • coloring agents such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes
  • hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate and persulfate salts
  • hair reducing agents such as the thioglycolates
  • perfumes and sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediamine tetra-acetate
  • ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents such as octyl salicylate
  • 1665 antidandruff agents such zinc pyridinethione.
  • Such optional ingredients generally are used individually at levels from about 0.001 % to about 10.0%, preferably from about 0.01 % to about 5.0% by weight of the composition.
  • the hair spray, mousses, lotions and conditioners are suitably made as follows: If included in the formula, polymeric materials are dispersed in water at room temperature. If required, the polymeric materials such as Carbomer and
  • Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer may be neutralized after dispersing. The mixture is then heated up to above 60°C, and fatty alcohols and emulsifiers are added if included in the formulation. After cooling down to below 50°C, the remaining components are added with agitation then cooled down to about 30°C Ethanol is added here if included in the formula. A triblender and mill
  • the mixture thus obtained can be packed into an aerosol can with propellant.
  • the shampoos are suitably prepared by any conventional method well known in the art.
  • a suitable method is as follows: polymer and surfactants are dispersed in water to form a homogeous mixture. To this mixture are added the
  • silicone emulsion if present
  • perfume if present
  • salt if present, the obtained mixture is agitated. If present, the silicone emulsion is made with Dimethicone or Dimethiconol, a small amount of detersive surfactant, and a portion of water. The obtained mixture is then passed through a heat exchanger to cool, and the silicone emulsion, perfume, and salt are added. The obtained silicone emulsion, perfume, and salt are added.
  • compositions are poured into bottles to make hair shampoo compositions.
  • water and surfactants and any other solids that need to be melted can be mixed together at elevated temperature, e.g., above about 70°C, to speed the mixing into shampoo. Additional ingredients can be added either to this hot premix or after cooling the premix. The ingredients are mixed thoroughly
  • silicone emulsified at room temperature in concentrated surfactant is added to the cooled mix.
  • TINOPAL CBX obtained by Ciba 1715 Geigy.
  • Glycerin GLYCERIN USP obtained by Nihon Yushi.
  • Ethylene Glycol Distearate EGDS obtained by Th. Goldschmidt AG.
  • KONOL SERIES obtained by Shinihon Rika.
  • Citric Acid ANHYDROUS CITRIC ACID obtained by Haarman & Reimer.
  • L-Glutamic Acid L-GLUTAMIC ACID (COSMETIC GRADE) obtained by Ajinomoto. **3' 8 Carbomer: CARBOPOL 980 obtained by BF Goodrich.
  • Vitamin E EMIX-d obtained by Eisai.
  • optical brighteners e.g., shine, UV protection, color alteration
  • optical brighteners e.g., shine, UV protection, color alteration

Abstract

On décrit des compositions de soin capillaire comprenant a) une quantité effective d'un azurant optique; et b) un solvant non volatil pouvant solubiliser au moins 0,01 % en poids de l'azurant optique. L'azurant optique desdites compositions s'applique sur les cheveux sans cristalliser.
EP97942562A 1997-09-17 1997-09-17 Compositions de soin capillaire contenant des azurants optiques et des solvants non volatils Withdrawn EP1011616A1 (fr)

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US7736631B2 (en) 2003-04-01 2010-06-15 L'oreal S.A. Cosmetic dye composition with a lightening effect for human keratin materials, comprising at least one fluorescent dye and at least one aminosilicone, and process of dyeing
FR2853233B1 (fr) * 2003-04-01 2007-10-05 Oreal Composition de coloration pour matieres keratiniques humaines comprenant un colorant fluorescent et une silicone aminee, procede et utilisation
FR2853237B1 (fr) * 2003-04-01 2006-07-14 Oreal Procede de coloration avec effet eclaircissant de fibres keratiniques humaines ayant subi une deformation permanente, au moyen d'une composition comprenant un colorant fluorescent
FR2853239B1 (fr) * 2003-04-01 2010-01-29 Oreal Utilisation de compositions comprenant un colorant fluorescent et un tensioactif amphotere ou non ionique particuliers pour colorer avec un effet eclaircissant des matieres keratiniques humaines
FR2853238A1 (fr) * 2003-04-01 2004-10-08 Oreal Cmposition de coloration pour matieres keratiniques humaines comprenant un colorant fluorescent et un polymere conditionneur polyorganosiloxane insoluble, procede et utilisation
FR2853235B1 (fr) * 2003-04-01 2008-10-03 Oreal Composition de coloration pour matieres keratiniques humaines comprenant un colorant fluorescent et un compose particulier a fonction acide, procede et utilisation
FR2853228B1 (fr) * 2003-04-01 2006-07-14 Oreal Composition de coloration pour matieres keratiniques humaines comprenant un colorant fluorescent et un agent conditionneur insoluble, procede et utilisation
FR2853236B1 (fr) * 2003-04-01 2007-10-12 Oreal Composition de coloration pour matieres keratiniques humaines comprenant un colorant fluorescent et un polyol, procede et utilisation
EP1674070B1 (fr) * 2004-12-16 2009-06-17 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition pour le conditionnement des cheveux comprenant un azurant optique
JP2008105976A (ja) * 2006-10-24 2008-05-08 Shinichiro Isobe 化粧用組成物
GB201122220D0 (en) * 2011-12-23 2012-02-01 Croda Int Plc Novel emoillients
FR2990852A1 (fr) * 2012-05-24 2013-11-29 Oreal Colorant ou azurant anionique a contre ion ammonium ou phosphonium, composition de teinture les comprenant et procede de coloration des fibres keratiniques a partir de ces colorants

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US3577528A (en) * 1966-05-27 1971-05-04 Zotos Int Inc Two phase hair conditioner compositions
US3658985A (en) * 1969-07-28 1972-04-25 Colgate Palmolive Co Oil and fluorescent dye containing luster imparting liquid shampoo
ZA772805B (en) * 1976-05-11 1978-04-26 Rubinstein Inc H Shampoo compositions
DE3204636C2 (de) * 1982-02-10 1985-02-21 A.W. Faber-Castell Unternehmensverwaltung GmbH & Co, 8504 Stein Schminke
DE3725080A1 (de) * 1987-07-29 1989-02-09 Wella Ag Haarwachs
JP4390159B2 (ja) * 1995-11-17 2009-12-24 モーメンティブ・パフォーマンス・マテリアルズ・インク 化粧品組成物の蛍光による光沢付与法

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