EP0992234A1 - High-viscosity aqueous nail polish compositions - Google Patents
High-viscosity aqueous nail polish compositions Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0992234A1 EP0992234A1 EP99401837A EP99401837A EP0992234A1 EP 0992234 A1 EP0992234 A1 EP 0992234A1 EP 99401837 A EP99401837 A EP 99401837A EP 99401837 A EP99401837 A EP 99401837A EP 0992234 A1 EP0992234 A1 EP 0992234A1
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- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- composition according
- film
- composition
- polyurethane
- polymers
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
- A61Q3/02—Nail coatings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
Definitions
- the subject of the present invention is a nail varnish comprising a dispersion aqueous film-forming polymer and a thickening agent.
- This varnish can be used for nail makeup or even for nail treatment.
- EP-A-143480, FR-A-2399238, and EP-A-648485 are known from fluid nail polish compositions comprising an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles.
- aqueous nail polishes it is common to thicken the phase aqueous with thickening agents. These thickened compositions allow facilitate taking the product out of its packaging without significant loss, distribute the product evenly over the area to be treated or even ability to use product in sufficient quantities to achieve cosmetic effect research.
- compositions being fluid, it is often necessary to apply two layers of product to obtain a film covering the nail perfectly, i.e. say a film that does not allow to see the nail through the film. It is therefore desirable to have nail polish with good coverage.
- a nail polish must also have the following qualities: ease of spreading the varnish on the nail and obtaining a shiny, homogeneous film, having good makeup properties, in particular of smooth appearance.
- the aim of the present invention is to have a nail polish composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles spreads easily on the nail and conducts, after application in a single layer on the nail, with a perfectly shiny, homogeneous film, covering the nail and smooth.
- composition can be obtained by adjusting the viscosity and using a specific thickening agent.
- the subject of the invention is a composition of nail polish comprising a aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles, characterized in that that the composition comprises at least one associative polyurethane in an amount effective so that the composition has a viscosity of at least 2 Pa.s, measured at 23 ° C, at a rotation speed of 100 rpm.
- the invention also relates to the use of an associative polyurethane in a nail polish comprising an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles film-forming and having a viscosity of at least 2 Pa.s, measured at 23 ° C, at the speed rotation of 100 revolutions / min.
- Another subject of the invention is the use of an associative polyurethane in a nail polish composition
- a nail polish composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer, in an amount effective for the composition to have a viscosity of at least 2 Pa.s, measured at 23 ° C, at a speed of rotation of 100 revolutions / min.
- the subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined previously to obtain a glossy and / or homogeneous and / or covering film.
- compositions as defined above are used as a monolayer varnish.
- the invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above as a film-based varnish.
- the subject of the invention is a make-up or cosmetic treatment process and non-therapeutic nails consisting in applying to the nails a composition as defined above.
- associative polyurethanes make it possible to obtain the remarkable properties of nail polish and other thickening agents known in fluid consistency varnishes did not allow obtaining these desired rheological or cosmetic properties.
- clays like bentonite or montmorillonite do not lead to higher viscosities at 2 Pa.s; cellulosic polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose lead to the matification of the film for the desired viscosities; polymers acrylic thickeners, including associative acrylic polymers, do not not allow satisfactory spreading for the desired viscosities.
- a nail polish is obtained which spreads easily on the nail and which makes it possible to obtain, by application in a single layer, a film having good coverage.
- the film is perfectly homogeneous and smooth, with no brush marks.
- the film obtained after drying also has good gloss: the gloss, measured using a BYK-GARDNER glossmeter at a light beam angle of 60 °, is greater than or equal to 80, and in particular ranges from 80 to 100 .
- the varnish according to the invention allows the deposition of a thick film on the nail while being applied in a single layer. Also, the varnish according to the invention is perfectly usable as a coating varnish.
- the viscosity of the composition according to the invention is at least 2 Pa.s (2000 cps) and preferably less than 8 Pa.s because beyond, the composition is no longer applicable using a brush .
- the viscosity of the composition can range from 4 Pa.s (4000 cps) to 6 Pa.s (6000 cps).
- the viscosity is measured at 23 ° C., with a BROOKFIELD DVII viscometer equipped with mobile No. 3, at a rotation speed of 100 revolutions / min, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation (time after which stabilization is observed viscosity and speed of rotation of the mobile).
- Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain, both hydrophilic sequences of the most often polyoxyethylenated and hydrophobic sequences which can be Aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic sequences and / or aromatic.
- these polymers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from C 6 to C 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon chains can be pendant chains or chains at the end of hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible that one or more hanging chains are provided.
- the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
- the polymers can be sequenced as a triblock or multiblock.
- the hydrophobic sequences can therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) or distributed at the same time at the ends and in the chain (multi-block copolymer for example).
- the polymers can also be in grafts or in star.
- the polymers are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 groups oxyethylenated.
- associative polyurethanes have a bond urethane between hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.
- associative polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of polymer C 16 -OE 120 -C 16 sold by the company HULS (under the name Soud FX1100, molecule with urethane function and average molecular weight by weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylenated motif.
- Associative polymer it is also possible to use Rheolate 205 with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or even Rheolate 208 or 204. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form.
- the product DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% as dry matter in water, can also be used.
- solutions or dispersions of these polymers in particular in water or in an alcoholic medium.
- such polymers are may cite the Serad FX1010, Serad FX1035 and Serad 1070 sold by the company HULS, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the RHEOX company.
- the polymers which can be used in the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).
- composition according to the invention contains one or more associative polyurethanes in an amount sufficient to obtain a composition having the indicated viscosity previously.
- the associative polyurethane can be present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- radical film-forming polymer a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic, each monomer being likely to homopolymerize (unlike polycondensates).
- the film-forming polymers of radical type can be in particular polymers, or vinyl copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
- Vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.
- anionic radical film-forming polymers are used, that is to say monomers having at least one monomer with an acid group.
- carboxylic acids can be used ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenic unsaturated such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid.
- acrylic acid methacrylic acid
- crotonic acid maleic acid
- itaconic acid we prefer to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.
- esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 20 alkyl , preferably C 1 -C 8 , aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 6 -C 10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 2 -C hydroxyalkyl 6 .
- alkyl (meth) acrylates Mention may be made, among alkyl (meth) acrylates, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate.
- hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
- aryl (meth) acrylates mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
- Particularly preferred esters of (meth) acrylic acid are alkyl (meth) acrylates.
- the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated, is perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl groups are substituted by fluorine atoms.
- amides of the acid monomers mention may, for example, be made of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C 2 -C 12 alkyl.
- N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides there may be mentioned N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide and Nt-octyl acrylamide.
- the film-forming vinyl polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers.
- these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.
- vinyl esters that may be mentioned include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
- styrene monomers mention may be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
- film-forming acrylic polymer which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90®, NEOCRYL A-1070®, NEOCRYL A-1090®, NEOCRYL BT-62®, NEOCRYL A-1079®, NEOCRYL A-523® by the company ZENECA, DOW LATEX 432® by the company DOW CHEMICAL.
- the film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can be also obtained from polyesters, branched or not, or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, either a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or even a group neutralizable tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
- a diisocyanate for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino
- a bifunctional organic compound for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino
- the film-forming polyurethane can be chosen from polyester-polyurethanes and polyether polyurethanes, and preferably among polyester polyurethanes anionics and anionic polyether polyurethanes.
- an aqueous dispersion of anionic polyurethane polyester the size of the polyurethane particles of which ranges from 2 to 100 nm and / or the hardness of a film obtained after drying, for 24 hours, can be used as the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles.
- a layer 300 ⁇ m thick (before drying) of an aqueous dispersion containing 28% of dry matter of said polyurethane particles ranges from 50 to 300 seconds.
- the hardness of the film is measured according to standard ASTM D-43-66, or standard NF-T 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz pendulum.
- aqueous dispersions are perfectly suitable for obtaining a coating varnish.
- Such aqueous dispersions of anionic polyester-polyurethane are in particular sold under the names "AVALURE UR 405®,” AVALURE UR 410® “,” SANCURE 2060® “by the company GOODRICH.
- polyesters which can be used as film-forming polymer
- amide polyesters fatty chain polyesters
- polyamides polyamides
- epoxy ester resins it is also possible to cite polyesters, amide polyesters, fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.
- the polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
- the dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2.2 acid -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, acid 1,3- cyclohexanedicarboxylic, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5- acid naphthalenedi
- the diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. We preferably uses a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane.
- the polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols.
- diamine ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine.
- amino alcohol monoethanolamine can be used.
- the polyester may also comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one group -SO 3 M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion, such as for example an ion Na + , Li + , K + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ . It is possible in particular to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO 3 M.
- the aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO 3 M group as described above can be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxidiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl nuclei.
- a bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO 3 M group sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.
- copolymers based on isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.
- Such polymers are sold, for example, under the brand name Eastman AQ by the company Eastman Chemical Products.
- Polymers of natural origin can be chosen among shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
- the dispersion comprising one or more film-forming polymers can be prepared by the skilled person on the basis of his general knowledge.
- the size of the polymer particles in aqueous dispersion can range from 10 to 500 nm, and is preferably 20 to 300 nm.
- the polymer in aqueous dispersion can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight of dry matter of film-forming polymers relative to the weight total of the composition.
- the composition may contain plasticizers and / or coalescing agents which are well known to those skilled in the art.
- composition according to the invention may contain adjuvants commonly used in cosmetic compositions, especially topical.
- adjuvants commonly used in cosmetic compositions, especially topical.
- the skilled person will watch to choose this or these possible adjuvants, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the planned addition, and which allows therefore to obtain a composition with the viscosity indicated above.
- composition according to the invention can be applied to natural nails or artificial.
- the viscosity was measured at 23 ° C., using the viscometer BROOKFIELD DVII equipped with mobile no.3, at a speed of 100 rpm; the measurement was made after 10 min of rotation.
- the gloss was measured for a wet film deposited 300 ⁇ m thick deposited on a contrast card and then stored for 24 hours, in an atmosphere at 50% relative humidity, for 24 h.
- the measurement was made using a BYK-GARDNER glossmeter with a light beam angle of 60 °.
- compositions 3 to 6 according to the invention make it possible to obtain a film which is shiny, smooth and which does not have any brush marks.
- Composition 7 (outside the invention) leads to the formation of a less shiny film, not very smooth, revealing traces of the brush.
- Composition 8 (outside the invention) leads to the formation of an inhomogeneous film and the make-up is not satisfactory.
Abstract
Description
La présente invention a pour objet un vernis-à-ongles comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de polymère filmogène et un agent épaississant. Ce vernis peut être employé pour le maquillage des ongles ou bien encore pour le traitement des ongles.The subject of the present invention is a nail varnish comprising a dispersion aqueous film-forming polymer and a thickening agent. This varnish can be used for nail makeup or even for nail treatment.
Il est connu des demandes EP-A-143480, FR-A-2399238, et EP-A-648485 des compositions de vernis-à-ongles fluides comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de particules de polymère filmogène.EP-A-143480, FR-A-2399238, and EP-A-648485 are known from fluid nail polish compositions comprising an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles.
Dans les vernis à ongles à milieu aqueux, il est courant d'épaissir la phase aqueuse par des agents épaississants. Ces compositions épaissies permettent de faciliter la prise du produit hors de son conditionnement sans perte significative, de répartir le produit de façon régulière sur la zone à traiter ou bien encore de pouvoir utiliser le produit dans des quantités suffisantes pour obtenir l'effet cosmétique recherché.In aqueous nail polishes, it is common to thicken the phase aqueous with thickening agents. These thickened compositions allow facilitate taking the product out of its packaging without significant loss, distribute the product evenly over the area to be treated or even ability to use product in sufficient quantities to achieve cosmetic effect research.
Toutefois, ces compositions étant fluides, il est souvent nécessaire d'appliquer deux couches de produit pour obtenir un film couvrant parfaitement l'ongle, c'est-à dire un film qui ne permette pas de voir l'ongle à travers le film. Il est donc souhaitable de disposer de vernis-à-ongles présentant une bonne propriété de couvrance.However, these compositions being fluid, it is often necessary to apply two layers of product to obtain a film covering the nail perfectly, i.e. say a film that does not allow to see the nail through the film. It is therefore desirable to have nail polish with good coverage.
Par ailleurs, un vernis-à-ongles doit présenter également les qualités suivantes : facilité d'étalement du vernis sur l'ongle et obtention d'un film brillant, homogène, présentant de bonnes propriétés de maquillage, notamment d'aspect lisse.In addition, a nail polish must also have the following qualities: ease of spreading the varnish on the nail and obtaining a shiny, homogeneous film, having good makeup properties, in particular of smooth appearance.
Le but de la présente invention est de disposer d'une composition de vernis-à-ongles comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de particules de polymère filmogène s'étalant facilement sur l'ongle et conduisant, après application en une seule couche sur l'ongle, à un film parfaitement brillant, homogène, couvrant l'ongle et lisse.The aim of the present invention is to have a nail polish composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles spreads easily on the nail and conducts, after application in a single layer on the nail, with a perfectly shiny, homogeneous film, covering the nail and smooth.
La demanderesse a découvert qu'une telle composition pouvait être obtenue en ajustant la viscosité et en employant un agent épaississant particulier.The Applicant has discovered that such a composition can be obtained by adjusting the viscosity and using a specific thickening agent.
Ainsi, l'invention a pour objet une composition de vernis-à-ongles comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de particules de polymère filmogène, caractérisée par le fait que la composition comprend au moins un polyuréthane associatif en une quantité efficace pour que la composition ait une viscosité d'au moins 2 Pa.s, mesurée à 23°C, à la vitesse de rotation de 100 tours/min.Thus, the subject of the invention is a composition of nail polish comprising a aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles, characterized in that that the composition comprises at least one associative polyurethane in an amount effective so that the composition has a viscosity of at least 2 Pa.s, measured at 23 ° C, at a rotation speed of 100 rpm.
L'invention a aussi pour objet l'utilisation d'un polyuréthane associatif dans un vernis-à-ongles comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de particules de polymère filmogène et ayant une viscosité d'au moins 2 Pa.s, mesurée à 23°C, à la vitesse de rotation de 100 tours/min.The invention also relates to the use of an associative polyurethane in a nail polish comprising an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles film-forming and having a viscosity of at least 2 Pa.s, measured at 23 ° C, at the speed rotation of 100 revolutions / min.
L'invention a encore pour objet l'utilisation d'un polyuréthane associatif dans une composition de vernis-à-ongles comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de particules de polymère filmogène, en une quantité efficace pour que la composition ait une viscosité d'au moins 2 Pa.s, mesurée à 23°C, à la vitesse de rotation de 100 tours/min.Another subject of the invention is the use of an associative polyurethane in a nail polish composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer, in an amount effective for the composition to have a viscosity of at least 2 Pa.s, measured at 23 ° C, at a speed of rotation of 100 revolutions / min.
L'invention a également pour objet l'utilisation d'une composition telle que définie précédemment pour l'obtention d'un film brillant et/ou homogène et/ou couvrant.The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined previously to obtain a glossy and / or homogeneous and / or covering film.
L'invention a encore pour objet l'utilisation d'une composition telle que définie précédemment comme vernis monocouche.Another subject of the invention is the use of a composition as defined above as a monolayer varnish.
L'invention a aussi pour objet l'utilisation d'une composition telle que définie précédemment comme vernis pelliculable.The invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above as a film-based varnish.
L'invention a pour objet un procédé de maquillage ou de traitement cosmétique et non thérapeutique des ongles consistant à appliquer sur les ongles une composition telle que définie précédemment.The subject of the invention is a make-up or cosmetic treatment process and non-therapeutic nails consisting in applying to the nails a composition as defined above.
Les inventeurs ont constaté que les polyuréthanes associatifs permettent d'obtenir les propriétés remarquables de vernis-à-ongles et que d'autres agents épaississants connus dans les vernis à consistance fluide ne permettaient pas d'obtenir ces propriétés rhéologiques ou cosmétiques souhaitées. Par exemple, les argiles comme la bentonite ou la montmorillonite ne conduisent pas à des viscosités supérieures à 2 Pa.s ; les polymères cellulosiques comme l'hydroxyéthylcellulose conduisent à la matification du film pour les viscosités recherchées ; les polymères épaississants de type acrylique, y compris les polymères acryliques associatifs, ne permettent pas un étalement satisfaisant pour les viscosités souhaitées.The inventors have found that associative polyurethanes make it possible to obtain the remarkable properties of nail polish and other thickening agents known in fluid consistency varnishes did not allow obtaining these desired rheological or cosmetic properties. For example, clays like bentonite or montmorillonite do not lead to higher viscosities at 2 Pa.s; cellulosic polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose lead to the matification of the film for the desired viscosities; polymers acrylic thickeners, including associative acrylic polymers, do not not allow satisfactory spreading for the desired viscosities.
Grâce au polyuréthane associatif et à la viscosité élevée de la composition, on
obtient un vernis-à-ongle qui s'étale facilement sur l'ongle et qui permet d'obtenir,
par application en une seule couche, un film présentant une bonne couvrance. De
plus, le film est parfaitement homogène et lisse, sans traces de pinceau. Le film
obtenu après séchage présente aussi une bonne brillance : la brillance, mesurée
à l'aide d'un brillancemètre BYK-GARDNER à un angle de faisceau lumineux de
60 °, est supérieure ou égale à 80, et notamment va de 80 à 100.
Le vernis selon l'invention permet le dépôt d'un film épais sur l'ongle tout en étant
appliqué en une seule couche. Aussi, le vernis selon l'invention est parfaitement
utilisable comme vernis pelliculable. Thanks to the associative polyurethane and the high viscosity of the composition, a nail polish is obtained which spreads easily on the nail and which makes it possible to obtain, by application in a single layer, a film having good coverage. . In addition, the film is perfectly homogeneous and smooth, with no brush marks. The film obtained after drying also has good gloss: the gloss, measured using a BYK-GARDNER glossmeter at a light beam angle of 60 °, is greater than or equal to 80, and in particular ranges from 80 to 100 .
The varnish according to the invention allows the deposition of a thick film on the nail while being applied in a single layer. Also, the varnish according to the invention is perfectly usable as a coating varnish.
La viscosité de la composition selon l'invention est d'au moins 2 Pa.s (2000 cps)
et de préférence inférieure à 8 Pa.s car au delà, la composition n'est plus applicable
à l'aide d'un pinceau. Avantageusement, la viscosité de la composition peut
aller de 4 Pa.s (4000 cps) à 6 Pa.s (6000 cps).
La viscosité est mesurée à 23 °C, avec un viscosimètre BROOKFIELD DVII équipé
du mobile n°3, à une vitesse de rotation de 100 tours/min, la mesure étant effectuée
après 10 minutes de rotation (temps au bout duquel on observe une stabilisation
de la viscosité et de la vitesse de rotation du mobile).The viscosity of the composition according to the invention is at least 2 Pa.s (2000 cps) and preferably less than 8 Pa.s because beyond, the composition is no longer applicable using a brush . Advantageously, the viscosity of the composition can range from 4 Pa.s (4000 cps) to 6 Pa.s (6000 cps).
The viscosity is measured at 23 ° C., with a BROOKFIELD DVII viscometer equipped with mobile No. 3, at a rotation speed of 100 revolutions / min, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation (time after which stabilization is observed viscosity and speed of rotation of the mobile).
Les polyuréthannes associatifs sont des copolymères séquencés non ioniques comportant dans la chaíne, à la fois des séquences hydrophiles de nature le plus souvent polyoxyéthylénée et des séquences hydrophobes qui peuvent être des enchaínements aliphatiques seuls et/ou des enchaínements cycloaliphatiques et/ou aromatiques.Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain, both hydrophilic sequences of the most often polyoxyethylenated and hydrophobic sequences which can be Aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic sequences and / or aromatic.
En particulier, ces polymères comportent au moins deux chaínes lipophiles hydrocarbonées, ayant de C6 à C30 atomes de carbone, séparées par une séquence hydrophile, les chaínes hydrocarbonées peuvent être des chaínes pendantes ou des chaínes en bout de séquence hydrophile. En particulier, il est possible qu'une ou plusieurs chaínes pendantes soient prévues. En outre, le polymère peut comporter, une chaíne hydrocarbonée à un bout ou aux deux bouts d'une séquence hydrophile.In particular, these polymers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from C 6 to C 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon chains can be pendant chains or chains at the end of hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible that one or more hanging chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
Les polymères peuvent être séquencés sous forme de tribloc ou multibloc. Les séquences hydrophobes peuvent donc être à chaque extrémité de la chaíne (par exemple : copolymère tribloc à séquence centrale hydrophile) ou réparties à la fois aux extrémités et dans la chaíne (copolymère multiséquencé par exemple). Les polymères peuvent être également en greffons ou en étoile.The polymers can be sequenced as a triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic sequences can therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) or distributed at the same time at the ends and in the chain (multi-block copolymer for example). The polymers can also be in grafts or in star.
De préférence, les polymères sont des copolymères triblocs dont la séquence hydrophile est une chaíne polyoxyéthylénée comportant de 50 à 1 000 groupements oxyéthylénés. En général les polyuréthannes associatifs comportent une liaison uréthane entre les séquences hydrophiles, d'où l'origine du nom.Preferably, the polymers are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 groups oxyethylenated. In general, associative polyurethanes have a bond urethane between hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.
Par extension figurent aussi parmi les polyuréthannes associatifs, des polymères dont les séquence hydrophiles sont liées par d'autres liaisons chimiques que la liaison uréthane aux séquences lipophiles.By extension also appear among associative polyurethanes, polymers whose hydrophilic sequences are linked by other chemical bonds than urethane bond to lipophilic sequences.
A titre d'exemple, des polymères associatifs utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer le polymère C16-OE120-C16 vendu par la société HULS (sous le nom Sérad FX1100, molécule à fonction uréthanne et poids moléculaire moyen en poids de 1300), OE étant un motif oxyéthyléné. Comme polymère associatif, on peut aussi utiliser aussi le Rhéolate 205 à fonction urée vendu par la société RHEOX ou encore le Rhéolate 208 ou 204. Ces polyuréthannes associatifs sont vendus sous forme pure. By way of example, associative polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of polymer C 16 -OE 120 -C 16 sold by the company HULS (under the name Sérad FX1100, molecule with urethane function and average molecular weight by weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylenated motif. As associative polymer, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205 with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or even Rheolate 208 or 204. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form.
Le produit DW 1206B de chez RHOM & HAAS à chaíne alkyle en C20 et à liaison uréthane, vendu à 20 % en matière sèche dans l'eau, peut aussi être utilisé.The product DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% as dry matter in water, can also be used.
On peut aussi utiliser des solutions ou dispersions de ces polymères notamment dans l'eau ou en milieu hydroalcoolique. A titre d'exemple, de tels polymères on peut citer, le Sérad FX1010, le Sérad FX1035 et le Serad 1070 vendus par la société HULS, le Rhéolate 255, le Rhéolate 278 et le Rhéolate 244 vendus par la société RHEOX. On peut aussi utiliser le produit DW 1206F et le DW 1206J, ainsi que l'Acrysol RM 184 ou l'Acrysol 44 de la société RHOM & HAAS, ou bien encore le Borchigel LW 44 de la société BORCHERS.It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an alcoholic medium. For example, such polymers are may cite the Sérad FX1010, Sérad FX1035 and Serad 1070 sold by the company HULS, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the RHEOX company. You can also use DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well than Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from RHOM & HAAS, or even Borchigel LW 44 from BORCHERS.
Les polymères utilisables dans l'invention sont en particulier ceux décrits dans l'article de G. Fonnum, J. Bakke et Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).The polymers which can be used in the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).
La composition selon l'invention contient un ou plusieurs polyuréthanes associatifs en une quantité suffisante pour obtenir une composition ayant la viscosité indiquée précédemment. Avantageusement, le polyuréthane associatif peut être présent en une quantité allant de 0,5 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.The composition according to the invention contains one or more associative polyurethanes in an amount sufficient to obtain a composition having the indicated viscosity previously. Advantageously, the associative polyurethane can be present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Parmi les polymères filmogènes utilisables dans la composition de la présente invention, on peut citer les polymères synthétiques, de type radicalaire ou de type polycondensat, les polymères d'origine naturelle, et leurs mélanges.Among the film-forming polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of type polycondensate, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
Par polymère filmogène radicalaire, on entend un polymère obtenu par polymérisation de monomères à insaturation notamment éthylénique, chaque monomère étant susceptible de s'homopolymériser (à l'inverse des polycondensats). Les polymères filmogènes de type radicalaires peuvent être notamment des polymères, ou des copolymères, vinyliques, notamment des polymères acryliques.By radical film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic, each monomer being likely to homopolymerize (unlike polycondensates). The film-forming polymers of radical type can be in particular polymers, or vinyl copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
Les polymères filmogènes vinyliques peuvent résulter de la polymérisation de monomères à insaturation éthylénique ayant au moins un groupement acide et/ou des esters de ces monomères acides et/ou des amides de ces monomères acides.Vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.
On utilise de préférence des polymères filmogènes radicalaires anioniques, c'est-à-dire des monomères ayant au moins un monomère à groupement acide.Preferably anionic radical film-forming polymers are used, that is to say monomers having at least one monomer with an acid group.
Comme monomère porteur de groupement acide, on peut utiliser des acides carboxyliques insaturés α,β-éthyléniques tels que l'acide acrylique, l'acide méthacrylique, l'acide crotonique, l'acide maléique, l'acide itaconique. On utilise de préférence l'acide (méth)acrylique et l'acide crotonique, et plus préférentiellement l'acide (méth)acrylique. As the monomer carrying an acid group, carboxylic acids can be used α, β-ethylenic unsaturated such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. We prefer to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.
Les esters de monomères acides sont avantageusement choisis parmi les esters
de l'acide (méth)acrylique (encore appelé les (méth)acrylates), notamment des
(méth)acrylates d'alkyle, en particulier d'alkyle en C1-C20, de préférence en C1-C8,
des (méth)acrylates d'aryle, en particulier d'aryle en C6-C10, des (méth)acrylates
d'hydroxyalkyle, en particulier d'hydroxyalkyle en C2-C6.
Parmi les (méth)acrylates d'alkyle, on peut citer le méthacrylate de méthyle, le
méthacrylate d'éthyle, le méthacrylate de butyle, le méthacrylate d'isobutyle, le
méthacrylate d'éthyl-2 hexyle, le méthacrylate de lauryle.
Parmi les (méth)acrylates d'hydroxyalkyle, on peut citer l'acrylate d'hydroxyéthyle,
l'acrylate de 2-hydroxypropyle, le méthacrylate d'hydroxyéthyle, le méthacrylate de
2-hydroxypropyle.
Parmi les (méth)acrylates d'aryle, on peut citer l'acrylate de benzyle et l'acrylate
de phényle.
Les esters de l'acide (méth)acrylique particulièrement préférés sont les
(méth)acrylates d'alkyle.The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 20 alkyl , preferably C 1 -C 8 , aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 6 -C 10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 2 -C hydroxyalkyl 6 .
Mention may be made, among alkyl (meth) acrylates, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate.
Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
Particularly preferred esters of (meth) acrylic acid are alkyl (meth) acrylates.
Selon la présente invention, le groupement alkyle des esters peut être soit fluoré, soit perfluoré, c'est-à-dire qu'une partie ou la totalité des atomes d'hydrogène du groupement alkyle sont substitués par des atomes de fluor.According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated, is perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl groups are substituted by fluorine atoms.
Comme amides des monomères acides, on peut par exemple citer les (méth)acrylamides, et notamment les N-alkyl (méth)acrylamides, en particulier d'alkyl en C2-C12. Parmi les N-alkyl (méth)acrylamides, on peut citer le N-éthyl acrylamide, le N-t-butyl acrylamide et le N-t-octyl acrylamide.As amides of the acid monomers, mention may, for example, be made of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, there may be mentioned N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide and Nt-octyl acrylamide.
Les polymères vinyliques filmogènes peuvent également résulter de l'homopolymérisation
ou de la copolymérisation de monomères choisis parmi les esters vinyliques
et les monomères styrèniques. En particulier, ces monomères peuvent être
polymérisés avec des monomères acides et/ou leurs esters et/ou leurs amides,
tels que ceux mentionnés précédemment.
Comme exemple d'esters vinyliques, on peut citer l'acétate de vinyle, le néodécanoate
de vinyle, le pivalate de vinyle, le benzoate de vinyle et le t-butyl benzoate
de vinyle.
Comme monomères styrèniques, on peut citer le styrène et l'alpha-méthyl styrène.The film-forming vinyl polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.
Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
La liste des monomères donnée n'est pas limitative et il est possible d'utiliser tout monomère connu de l'homme du métier entrant dans les catégories de monomères acryliques et vinyliques (y compris les monomères modifiés par une chaíne siliconée).The list of monomers given is not exhaustive and it is possible to use any monomer known to a person skilled in the art falling into the categories of monomers acrylic and vinyl (including chain-modified monomers silicone).
Comme polymère acrylique filmogène utilisable selon l'invention, on peut citer ceux vendus sous les dénominations NEOCRYL XK-90®, NEOCRYL A-1070®, NEOCRYL A-1090®, NEOCRYL BT-62®, NEOCRYL A-1079®, NEOCRYL A-523® par la société ZENECA, DOW LATEX 432® par la société DOW CHEMICAL.As film-forming acrylic polymer which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90®, NEOCRYL A-1070®, NEOCRYL A-1090®, NEOCRYL BT-62®, NEOCRYL A-1079®, NEOCRYL A-523® by the company ZENECA, DOW LATEX 432® by the company DOW CHEMICAL.
On peut ainsi citer, parmi les polycondensats utilisables comme polymères filmogènes,
les polyuréthannes anioniques, cationiques, non-ioniques ou amphotères,
les polyuréthannes-acryliques, les polyuréthannes-polyvinylpirrolidones, les polyester-polyuréthannes,
les polyéther-polyuréthannes, les polyurées, les polyurée/polyuréthannes,
et leurs mélanges.
Le polyuréthanne peut être, par exemple, un copolymère polyuréthanne, polyurée/uréthanne,
ou polyurée, aliphatique, cycloaliphatique ou aromatique, comportant
seule ou en mélange :
The polyurethane can be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane, or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymer, comprising alone or as a mixture:
Les polyuréthannes filmogènes tels que définis dans l'invention peuvent être également obtenus à partir de polyesters, ramifiés ou non, ou d'alkydes comportant des hydrogènes mobiles que l'on modifie par réaction avec un diisocyanate et un composé organique bifonctionnel (par exemple dihydro, diamino ou hydroxyamino), comportant en plus soit un groupement acide carboxylique ou carboxylate, soit un groupement acide sulfonique ou sulfonate, soit encore un groupement amine tertiaire neutralisable ou un groupement ammonium quaternaire.The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can be also obtained from polyesters, branched or not, or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, either a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or even a group neutralizable tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
Le polyuréthane filmogène peut être choisi parmi les polyester-polyuréthanes et les polyéther-polyuréthanes, et de préférence parmi les polyester-polyuréthanes anioniques et les polyéther-polyuréthanes anioniques.The film-forming polyurethane can be chosen from polyester-polyurethanes and polyether polyurethanes, and preferably among polyester polyurethanes anionics and anionic polyether polyurethanes.
Avantageusement, on peut utiliser comme dispersion aqueuse de particules de
polymère filmogène une dispersion aqueuse de polyester polyuréthane anionique
dont la taille des particules de polyuréthane va de 2 à 100 nm et/ou dont la dureté
d'un film obtenu après séchage, durant 24 heures à 30 °C et à 50 % d'humidité
relative, d'une couche de 300 µm d'épaisseur (avant séchage) d'une dispersion
aqueuse à 28 % de matière sèche desdites particules de polyuréthane va de 50 à
300 secondes.
La dureté du film est mesurée selon la norme ASTM D-43-66, ou la norme NF-T
30-016 (octobre 1981), à l'aide d'un pendule de Persoz.
Ces dispersions aqueuses conviennent parfaitement pour l'obtention d'un vernis
pelliculable.
De telles dispersions aqueuses de polyester-polyuréthane anionique sont notamment
commercialisées sous les dénominations "AVALURE UR 405®, "AVALURE
UR 410®", "SANCURE 2060®" par la société GOODRICH. Advantageously, an aqueous dispersion of anionic polyurethane polyester, the size of the polyurethane particles of which ranges from 2 to 100 nm and / or the hardness of a film obtained after drying, for 24 hours, can be used as the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles. at 30 ° C and 50% relative humidity, a layer 300 μm thick (before drying) of an aqueous dispersion containing 28% of dry matter of said polyurethane particles ranges from 50 to 300 seconds.
The hardness of the film is measured according to standard ASTM D-43-66, or standard NF-T 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz pendulum.
These aqueous dispersions are perfectly suitable for obtaining a coating varnish.
Such aqueous dispersions of anionic polyester-polyurethane are in particular sold under the names "AVALURE UR 405®," AVALURE UR 410® "," SANCURE 2060® "by the company GOODRICH.
On peut également utiliser comme dispersion aqueuse de particules de polymère filmogène des dispersions aqueuses de polyéther-polyuréthane anionique telles que celles vendues sous les dénominations "SANCURE 878®" par la société GOODRICH, "NEOREZ R 970®" par la société ICI.Can also be used as an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles film-forming aqueous dispersions of anionic polyether-polyurethane than those sold under the names "SANCURE 878®" by the company GOODRICH, "NEOREZ R 970®" by the company ICI.
Parmi les polycondensats utilisables comme polymère filmogène, on peut également citer les polyesters, les polyesters amides, les polyesters à chaíne grasse, les polyamides, et les résines époxyesters.Among the polycondensates which can be used as film-forming polymer, it is also possible to cite polyesters, amide polyesters, fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.
Les polyesters peuvent être obtenus, de façon connue, par polycondensation
d'acides dicarboxyliques avec des polyols, notamment des diols.
L'acide dicarboxylique peut être aliphatique, alicyclique ou aromatique. On peut
citer comme exemple de tels acides : l'acide oxalique, l'acide malonique, l'acide
diméthylmalonique, l'acide succinique, l'acide glutarique, l'acide adipique, l'acide
pimélique, l'acide 2,2-diméthylglutarique, l'acide azélaïque, l'acide subérique,
l'acide sébacique, l'acide fumarique, l'acide maléique, l'acide itaconique, l'acide
phtalique, l'acide dodécanedioïque, l'acide 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylique, l'acide
1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylique, l'acide isophtalique, l'acide téréphtalique, l'acide
2,5-norborane dicarboxylique, l'acide diglycolique, l'acide thiodipropionique,
l'acide 2,5-naphtalènedicarboxylique, l'acide 2,6-naphta-lènedicarboxylique. Ces
monomères acide dicarboxylique peuvent être utilisés seuls ou en combinaison
d'au moins deux monomères acide dicarboxylique. Parmi ces monomères, on
choisit préférentiellement l'acide phtalique, l'acide isophtalique, l'acide téréphtalique.The polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2.2 acid -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, acid 1,3- cyclohexanedicarboxylic, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5- acid naphthalenedicarboxylic, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.
Le diol peut être choisi parmi les diols aliphatiques, alicycliques, aromatiques. On utilise de préférence un diol choisi parmi : l'éthylène glycol, le diéthylène glycol, le triéthylène glycol, le 1,3-propanediol, le cyclohexane diméthanol, le 4-butanediol. Comme autres polyols, on peut utiliser le glycérol, le pentaérythritol, le sorbitol, le triméthylol propane.The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. We preferably uses a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane.
Les polyesters amides peuvent être obtenus de manière analogue aux polyesters, par polycondensation de diacides avec des diamines ou des amino alcools. Comme diamine, on peut utiliser l'éthylènediamine, l'hexaméthylènediamine, la méta- ou para-phénylènediamine. Comme aminoalcool, on peut utiliser la monoéthanolamine.The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine. As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.
Le polyester peut en outre comprendre au moins un monomère portant au moins un groupement -SO3M, avec M représentant un atome d'hydrogène, un ion ammonium NH4 + ou un ion métallique, comme par exemple un ion Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+. On peut utiliser notamment un monomère aromatique bifonctionnel comportant un tel groupement -SO3M. The polyester may also comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one group -SO 3 M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion, such as for example an ion Na + , Li + , K + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ . It is possible in particular to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO 3 M.
Le noyau aromatique du monomère aromatique bifonctionnel portant en outre un
groupement -SO3M tel que décrit ci-dessus peut être choisi par exemple parmi les
noyaux benzène, naphtalène, anthracène, diphényl, oxydiphényl, sulfonyldiphényl,
méthylènediphényl. On peut citer comme exemple de monomère aromatique
bifonctionnel portant en outre un groupement -SO3M : l'acide sulfoisophtalique,
l'acide sulfotéréphtalique, l'acide sulfophtalique, l'acide 4-sulfonaphtalène-2,7-dicarboxylique.
On préfère utiliser dans les compositions objet de l'invention des copolymères à
base d'isophtalate/sulfoisophtalate, et plus particulièrement des copolymères obtenus
par condensation de di-éthylèneglycol, cyclohexane di-méthanol, acide
isophtalique, acide sulfoisophtalique. De tels polymères sont vendus par exemple
sous le nom de marque Eastman AQ par la société Eastman Chemical Products.The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO 3 M group as described above can be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxidiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl nuclei. As an example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO 3 M group: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.
It is preferred to use in the compositions which are the subject of the invention copolymers based on isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid. Such polymers are sold, for example, under the brand name Eastman AQ by the company Eastman Chemical Products.
Les polymères d'origine naturelle, éventuellement modifiés, peuvent être choisis parmi la résine shellac, la gomme de sandaraque, les dammars, les élémis, les copals, les polymères cellulosiques insolubles dans l'eau, et leurs mélanges.Polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, can be chosen among shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
On peut encore citer les polymères résultant de la polymérisation radicalaire d'un ou plusieurs monomères radicalaires à l'intérieur et/ou partiellement en surface, de particules préexistantes d'au moins un polymère choisi dans le groupe constitué par les polyuréthannes, les polyurées, les polyesters, les polyesteramides et/ou les alkydes. Ces polymères sont généralement appelés polymères hybrides.Mention may also be made of the polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of a or more radical monomers inside and / or partially on the surface, of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting by polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called hybrid polymers.
La dispersion comprenant un ou plusieurs polymères filmogènes peut être préparée par l'homme du métier sur base de ses connaissances générales.The dispersion comprising one or more film-forming polymers can be prepared by the skilled person on the basis of his general knowledge.
La taille des particules de polymères en dispersion aqueuse peut aller de 10 à 500 nm, et est de préférence de 20 à 300 nm.The size of the polymer particles in aqueous dispersion can range from 10 to 500 nm, and is preferably 20 to 300 nm.
Le polymère en dispersion aqueuse peut être présent dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 1 % à 50 % en poids, de préférence de 5 % à 45% en poids de matière sèche de polymères filmogènes par rapport au poids total de la composition.The polymer in aqueous dispersion can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight of dry matter of film-forming polymers relative to the weight total of the composition.
Pour améliorer les propriétés filmogènes de la composition selon l'invention, la composition peut contenir des agents plastifiants et/ou des agents de coalescence qui sont bien connus de l'homme du métier.To improve the film-forming properties of the composition according to the invention, the composition may contain plasticizers and / or coalescing agents which are well known to those skilled in the art.
Par ailleurs, la composition selon l'invention peut contenir des adjuvants couramment utilisés dans les compositions cosmétiques, notamment topiques. On peut citer à titre d'exemple d'adjuvants les colorants, les pigments, les nacres, les laques, les agents anti-UV, les conservateurs, les tensioactifs, les agents d'étalement, les parfums, les agents hydratants. Bien entendu, l'homme du métier veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels adjuvants, et/ou leur quantité, de telle manière que les propriétés avantageuses de la composition selon l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'adjonction envisagée, et qui permette donc d'obtenir une composition avec la viscosité indiquée précédemment.Furthermore, the composition according to the invention may contain adjuvants commonly used in cosmetic compositions, especially topical. We can cite as examples of additives dyes, pigments, nacres, lacquers, anti-UV agents, preservatives, surfactants, spreading agents, perfumes, moisturizers. Of course, the skilled person will watch to choose this or these possible adjuvants, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the planned addition, and which allows therefore to obtain a composition with the viscosity indicated above.
La composition selon l'invention peut être appliquée sur des ongles naturels ou artificiels.The composition according to the invention can be applied to natural nails or artificial.
On va maintenant donner des exemples illustrant la présente invention sans toutefois la limiter.We will now give examples illustrating the present invention without however limit it.
Pour chaque composition, la viscosité a été mesurée à 23 °C, à l'aide du viscosimètre BROOKFIELD DVII équipé du mobile n°3, à la vitesse de rotation de 100 tours/min ; la mesure a été effectuée après 10 min de rotation.For each composition, the viscosity was measured at 23 ° C., using the viscometer BROOKFIELD DVII equipped with mobile no.3, at a speed of 100 rpm; the measurement was made after 10 min of rotation.
On a préparé un vernis-à-ongles, par simple mélange à température ambiante, ayant la composition suivante :
- Dispersion aqueuse de polyester-polyuréthane anionique à 35 % de matière sèche (AVALURE UR 405 de GOODRICH) 47 g
- Dispersion aqueuse de copolymère acrylate à 44 % de matière sèche 15 g
- Polyuréthane associatif en solution aqueuse à 44 % de matière active (BORCHIGEL LW 44 de BORCHERS) 1,5 g
- Pigments 1 g
- Plastifiant 2 g
- Eau qs 100 g
On a constaté que le vernis s'applique facilement sur l'ongle et permet d'obtenir, après l'application en une seule couche, un film lisse, homogène et brillant, ne présentant pas de trace de pinceau et couvrant parfaitement l'ongle. A nail polish was prepared, by simple mixing at room temperature, having the following composition:
- Aqueous dispersion of anionic polyester-polyurethane at 35% dry matter (AVALURE UR 405 from GOODRICH) 47 g
- Aqueous dispersion of acrylate copolymer with 44% dry matter 15 g
- Associative polyurethane in aqueous solution containing 44% active material (BORCHIGEL LW 44 from BORCHERS) 1.5 g
- Pigments 1 g
- Plasticizer 2 g
- Water qs 100 g
It has been found that the varnish is easily applied to the nail and makes it possible to obtain, after application in a single layer, a smooth, homogeneous and shiny film, showing no brush marks and perfectly covering the nail. .
On a préparé un vernis-à-ongles ayant la composition suivante :
- Dispersion aqueuse de polyester-polyuréthane anionique à 35 % de matière sèche (AVALURE UR 405 de GOODRICH) 45 g
- Dispersion aqueuse de copolymère acrylate à 44 % de matière sèche 25 g
- Polyuréthane associatif (Serad FX1100 de SERVO HÜLS) 0,7 g
- Pigments 1 g
- Plastifiant 2 g
- Eau qs 100 g
On a constaté que le vernis s'applique facilement sur l'ongle et permet d'obtenir, après l'application en une seule couche, un film lisse, homogène et brillant, ne présentant pas de trace de pinceau et couvrant parfaitement l'ongle.A nail polish having the following composition was prepared:
- Aqueous dispersion of anionic polyester-polyurethane at 35% dry matter (AVALURE UR 405 from GOODRICH) 45 g
- Aqueous dispersion of acrylate copolymer with 44% dry matter 25 g
- Associative polyurethane (Serad FX1100 from SERVO HÜLS) 0.7 g
- Pigments 1 g
- Plasticizer 2 g
- Water qs 100 g
It has been found that the varnish is easily applied to the nail and makes it possible to obtain, after application in a single layer, a smooth, homogeneous and shiny film, showing no brush marks and perfectly covering the nail. .
On a préparé une base filmogène ayant la composition suivante :
Base :
- Dispersion aqueuse de polyester-polyuréthane anionique à 35 % de matière sèche (AVALURE UR 405 de GOODRICH) 62,1 g
- Dispersion aqueuse de copolymère acrylate à 44 % de matière sèche 19,9 g
- Ethanol 4,1 g
- Agents plastifiants 4,8 g
- Agent de coalescence 1,8
- Agent d'étalement 0,4 g
- Conservateurs qs
- Pigments 1 g
- Pâte pigmentaire 2 g
- Eau qs 100 g
Base :
- Aqueous dispersion of anionic polyester-polyurethane at 35% dry matter (AVALURE UR 405 from GOODRICH) 62.1 g
- Aqueous dispersion of acrylate copolymer with 44% dry matter 19.9 g
- Ethanol 4.1 g
- Plasticizers 4.8 g
- Coalescing agent 1.8
- Spreading agent 0.4 g
- Preservatives qs
- Pigments 1 g
- Pigment paste 2 g
- Water qs 100 g
On a ensuite préparé 6 vernis-à-ongles ayant les compositions données dans le tableau ci-après (base + épaississant) puis on a étudié les qualités de maquillage de ces vernis déposés en une couche: on a mesuré la brillance du film obtenu après séchage et on a évalué l'aspect du film et du maquillage. We then prepared 6 nail polishes having the compositions given in the table below (base + thickener) then we studied the makeup qualities of these varnishes deposited in a layer: the gloss of the film obtained was measured after drying and the appearance of the film and make-up was evaluated.
On a obtenu les résultats suivants :
La brillance a été mesurée pour un film humide déposé de 300 µm d'épaisseur déposé sur carte de contraste puis conservé pendant 24 h, dans une atmosphère à 50 % d'humidité relative, pendant 24 h. La mesure a été effectuée à l'aide d'un brillancemètre BYK-GARDNER avec un angle de faisceau lumineux de 60°.The gloss was measured for a wet film deposited 300 μm thick deposited on a contrast card and then stored for 24 hours, in an atmosphere at 50% relative humidity, for 24 h. The measurement was made using a BYK-GARDNER glossmeter with a light beam angle of 60 °.
On a ainsi constaté que seules les compositions 3 à 6 selon l'invention permettent
d'obtenir un film brillant, lisse et ne présentant pas de trace de pinceau.
La composition 7 (hors invention) conduit à la formation d'un film moins brillant,
pas très lisse, laissant apparaítre des traces de pinceau.
La composition 8 (hors invention) conduit à la formation d'un film inhomogène et
le maquillage n'est pas satisfaisant.It has thus been found that only compositions 3 to 6 according to the invention make it possible to obtain a film which is shiny, smooth and which does not have any brush marks.
Composition 7 (outside the invention) leads to the formation of a less shiny film, not very smooth, revealing traces of the brush.
Composition 8 (outside the invention) leads to the formation of an inhomogeneous film and the make-up is not satisfactory.
Claims (24)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9810333 | 1998-08-12 | ||
FR9810333A FR2782268B1 (en) | 1998-08-12 | 1998-08-12 | HIGH VISCOSITY AQUEOUS NAIL POLISH |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP0992234A1 true EP0992234A1 (en) | 2000-04-12 |
EP0992234B1 EP0992234B1 (en) | 2002-07-24 |
Family
ID=9529618
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Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP99401837A Expired - Lifetime EP0992234B1 (en) | 1998-08-12 | 1999-07-21 | High-viscosity aqueous nail polish compositions |
Country Status (11)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US6267950B1 (en) |
EP (1) | EP0992234B1 (en) |
JP (1) | JP4005274B2 (en) |
KR (1) | KR20000017200A (en) |
CN (1) | CN1245680A (en) |
AT (1) | ATE220890T1 (en) |
BR (1) | BR9903463A (en) |
CA (1) | CA2279725A1 (en) |
DE (1) | DE69902213T2 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2181377T3 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2782268B1 (en) |
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CN105997570A (en) * | 2016-06-12 | 2016-10-12 | 茌平县红粉天使化妆品科技有限公司 | Waterborne nail polish and preparation method thereof |
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US20040247544A1 (en) * | 2002-12-24 | 2004-12-09 | L'oreal | Use of dialkyl sulphones in cosmetic nailcare compositions for promoting growth of the nails |
US20040191195A1 (en) * | 2003-03-28 | 2004-09-30 | Carol Collins | Method of promoting a nail composition |
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FR2900549B1 (en) * | 2006-05-02 | 2008-09-12 | Oreal | PACKAGING AND APPLICATION UNIT |
JP5036071B2 (en) * | 2009-02-23 | 2012-09-26 | 利男 榎並 | Nail polish and nail polish set |
KR101044853B1 (en) * | 2010-07-06 | 2011-06-28 | 최광석 | Aqueous nail lacquer composite |
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KR102106212B1 (en) * | 2018-07-27 | 2020-05-04 | 인제대학교 산학협력단 | hypo-allergenic manicure composition by shellac for nail and toenail and its product method |
KR20200021124A (en) | 2018-08-20 | 2020-02-28 | 김은실 | Aqueous manicure composition and method of making the aqueous manicure composition |
CN113244132A (en) * | 2020-02-13 | 2021-08-13 | 万华化学集团股份有限公司 | Aqueous nail polish based on dopa modified aqueous polyurethane (meth) acrylate dispersion and preparation method thereof |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
CN1245680A (en) | 2000-03-01 |
BR9903463A (en) | 2000-09-19 |
JP2000063241A (en) | 2000-02-29 |
DE69902213T2 (en) | 2003-02-20 |
JP4005274B2 (en) | 2007-11-07 |
FR2782268B1 (en) | 2001-09-07 |
US6267950B1 (en) | 2001-07-31 |
CA2279725A1 (en) | 2000-02-12 |
FR2782268A1 (en) | 2000-02-18 |
KR20000017200A (en) | 2000-03-25 |
DE69902213D1 (en) | 2002-08-29 |
ES2181377T3 (en) | 2003-02-16 |
EP0992234B1 (en) | 2002-07-24 |
ATE220890T1 (en) | 2002-08-15 |
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