FR2814674A1 - Aqueous film-forming cosmetic composition for use in make-up or care of keratin matter comprises aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, amine base and clay capable of expanding in water - Google Patents

Abstract

The composition comprises at least 5 wt.%, per its total wt., of film-forming polymer, in form of aqueous dispersion of solid particles, water-expandable clay and amine base having pKa in water, at 25 deg C, below 9.9; the film-forming polymer being selected from polycondensates, natural polymers and radical polymers except acrylic-styrene polymers. Independent claims are also included for (1) the cosmetic process of make-up or treatment of keratin matter comprising application of composition as claimed; (2) use of composition as claimed to produce time-stable film-forming composition and/or to produce smooth and/or high shine film deposed on keratin matter; (3) use of water-expandable clay, amine base with pKa (in water, at 25 deg C) below 9.9, and aqueous dispersion of solid particles of film-forming polymer as defined above in cosmetic composition, to produce time-stable film-forming composition and/or to produce smooth and/or high shine film deposed on keratin matter.

Description

<Desc / Clms Page number 1>

The subject of the present invention is a film-forming cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous polymer dispersion, a clay and an amine, which can be used in particular as a make-up or care composition for keratin materials such as the skin, including the lips, the nails, the eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, especially human beings. The invention also relates to a use of this composition for the makeup or cosmetic care of keratin materials. It is intended more specifically for makeup and nail care.

The composition may be in the form of nail polish, mascara, eyeliner, lip product, blush, eye shadow, foundation, body make-up, product concealer, sunscreen composition, skin coloring, skin care product, hair product, especially for styling or conditioning hair.

More specifically, the invention relates to a nail polish.

The nail polish or nail care composition can be used as a base for nail polish, as a nail makeup product, as a finishing composition, also called a "top coat" in English terminology, to be applied to the nail makeup product or still well as a cosmetic nail care product. These compositions can be applied to human nails or false nails.

 It is known from EP-A-143480, FR-A-2399238 nail polish compositions comprising an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles. To facilitate the taking of the varnish with a brush, or even to easily distribute the varnish on the nail, It is common to thicken the aqueous phase of these varnishes with a thickening agent compatible with the aqueous medium. Thickening agents such as associative polymers, cellulosic polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose or even water-swellable clays such as bentonite, montmorillonite or laponite are used. Clays are particularly used to obtain a good dispersion of the pigments intended in particular to color the composition.

To adjust the pH of the nail polish composition, it is sometimes necessary to employ neutralizing agents such as amine bases. On the other hand, aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer particles often contain polymer neutralizing agents, such as amine bases such as, for example, triethylamine. However, it has been found that the presence of certain amino bases, such as triethylamine, in a composition containing an aqueous dispersion of laponite causes destabilization of the laponite dispersion over time, giving rise to flocculation of the laponite. This flocculation leads to

<Desc / Clms Page number 2>

une perte de l'homogénéité de la composition, et notamment à une synérèse. Lorsque la composition contient des matières colorantes, la composition ne pré- sente plus alors une couleur homogène. De plus, la déstabilisation de la composition conduit à une dégradation des propriétés du film lors de l'application de la composition sur les matières kératiniques tels que les ongles : le film n'est pas lisse et peut même présenter des grains inesthétiques, la brillance du film est très atténuée. Aussi, le film de maquillage ne présente plus les propriétés cosmétiques recherchées.

a loss of the homogeneity of the composition, and in particular to syneresis. When the composition contains dyestuffs, the composition then no longer has a homogeneous color. In addition, the destabilization of the composition leads to a degradation of the properties of the film during the application of the composition to keratin materials such as nails: the film is not smooth and may even have unsightly grains, shine of the film is very toned down. Also, the makeup film no longer has the desired cosmetic properties.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide an aqueous film-forming cosmetic composition thickened with a clay capable of swelling in water stable at 25 ° C. for at least 2 weeks and making it possible to obtain a film having good cosmetic properties.

The inventors have discovered that such a composition can be obtained by employing an amine base having a pKa, measured at 25 oC in water, of less than 10.0. This particular amine base makes it possible to obtain a homogenous thickened homogeneous film-forming composition which is easily applied to keratin materials, in particular to the nails. The composition applied to the keratin materials, in particular on the nails, forms a smooth film (absence of grains) and gloss.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of film-forming polymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion of solid particles, a water-swellable clay and an amine base having a pKa, measured in water at 25 C, of less than 9.9, the film-forming polymer being selected from the group consisting of polycondensates, polymers of natural origin radical polymers with the exception of acrylic-styrene polymers.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for making up or caring for keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above to obtain a film-forming composition that is stable over time and / or to obtain a smooth and / or glossy film deposited on the keratin materials.

The invention further relates to the use of a water-swellable clay, an amine base having a pKa, measured in water at 25 ° C., less than 9.9, of a dispersion aqueous film of solid particles of film-forming polymer in a cosmetic composition to obtain a stable film-forming composition over time

<Desc / Clms Page number 3>

et/ou pour obtenir un film lisse et/ou brillant déposé sur les matières kératiniques, le polymère filmogène étant choisi dans le groupe formé par les polycondensats, les polymères d'origine naturelle, les polymères radicalaires à l'exception des polymères acrylique-styrène.

and / or to obtain a smooth and / or glossy film deposited on the keratinous materials, the film-forming polymer being chosen from the group formed by polycondensates, polymers of natural origin, radical polymers with the exception of acrylic-styrene polymers .

By physiologically acceptable, it is necessary to understand a medium compatible with keratin materials, such as a cosmetic medium.

The clay present in the composition according to the invention is a clay capable of swelling in water; this clay swells in water and forms after hydration a colloidal dispersion.

Clays are already well known products per se, which are described for example in the book "Clay Mineralogy, S. Caillere, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson", whose teaching is here included for reference.

The clays are silicates containing a cation which may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations and their mixtures.

Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as vermiculite family, stevensite, chlorites .

These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with nails, skin and / or hair.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the clay capable of swelling in water used is chosen from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite, saponites, and more particularly hectorites. and bentonites.

As water-swellable clay usable according to the invention, mention may be made of synthetic hectorites (also called laponites) such as the products sold by Laporte under the name Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and in particular sodium, lithium and magnesium silicates); bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone HC by Rheox; magnesium and aluminum silicates, especially hydrated silicates, such as the product sold by Vanderbilt Company under the name Veegum ultra, or calcium silicates and in particular the synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C.

<Desc / Clms Page number 4>

The clay may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight.

The amine base present in the composition according to the invention has a pKa, measured in water at 25 ° C., less than 9.9, preferably less than or equal to 9.5 and better still less than or equal to 9.0. In particular, the pKa of the amino base ranges from 7 to 9.9, preferably from 7 to 9.5, and more preferably from 7 to 9.0.

When the amino base has several pKa, the highest pKa must satisfy the condition indicated above.

Advantageously, the amine base is a volatile base, which makes it possible to obtain a film that is more resistant to water.

The aminated base preferably has a molecular weight of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 15 to 160.

The amine base may comprise from 0 to 7 carbon atoms, especially from 3 to 7 carbon atoms, and better still from 4 to 6 carbon atoms.

The amine base can be a primary amine, a secondary amine or a tertiary amine.

As amine that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of ammonia (NH 4 OH) (pKa = 9.25), triethanolamine (pKa = 7.8), N, N-dimethyl ethanolamine (pKa = 9.3), amino-2-methyl-2-propanol-1 (pKa = 9.69) and amino-2-methyl-2-propanediol-1,3 (pKa = 8.79).

The amine base may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight. .

The composition according to the invention contains a film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. By polymer in the form of solid particles in aqueous dispersion is meant a phase containing water and optionally a water-soluble compound in which the polymer is dispersed directly in the form of solid particles.

In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

<Desc / Clms Page number 5>

Par polymère sous forme de particules en dispersion aqueuse, on entend une phase contenant de l'eau et éventuellement un composé soluble dans l'eau, dans laquelle est dispersé directement le polymère sous forme de particules.

The term "polymer in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion" means a phase containing water and optionally a water-soluble compound in which the polymer in the form of particles is dispersed directly.

Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of radical-type polymers excluding styrene-acrylic polymers, polycondensate type polymers, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

By radical-forming film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers with the exclusion of styrene-acrylic polymers, ie polymers comprising at least one styrene monomer (styrene and its derivatives ) and at least one acrylic monomer ((meth) acrylic acid and its derivatives such as esters and amides).

The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

Anionic film-forming polymers, that is to say polymers having at least one monomer with an acidic group such as a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid group, are preferably used.

As the acid group-bearing monomer, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid may be used. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 20 alkyl, preferably C 1 -C 6 alkyl, (meth) acrylates, in particular C 6 -C 10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl.

Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate.

<Desc / Clms Page number 6>

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide and N-t-octyl acrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

The list of monomers given is not limiting and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art falling into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with a silicone chain).

As the acrylic film-forming polymer that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the product sold under the name "NEOCRYL XK-90" by the company AVECIANEORESINS.

Among the polycondensates that can be used as film-forming polymer, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyesterpolyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes , and their mixtures.

<Desc / Clms Page number 7>

Le polyuréthanne filmogène peut être, par exemple, un copolymère polyuréthanne, polyurée/uréthanne, ou polyurée, aliphatique, cycloaliphatique ou aroma- tique, comportant seule ou en mélange : - au moins une séquence d'origine polyester aliphatique et/ou cycloaliphatique et/ou aromatique, et/ou, - au moins une séquence siliconée, ramifiée ou non, par exemple polydiméthylsi-

loxane ou polyméthylphénylsiloxane, et/ou - au moins une séquence comportant des groupes fluorés.

The film-forming polyurethane may be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymer, comprising, alone or as a mixture: at least one aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic polyester origin and / or or aromatic, and / or - at least one silicone sequence, branched or unbranched, for example polydimethylsilane

loxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or - at least one sequence comprising fluorinated groups.

The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention may also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or from alkyds containing mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro , diamino or hydroxyamino), further comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or a tertiary amine neutralizable group or a quaternary ammonium group.

As the film-forming polyurethane used according to the invention can be used those marketed under the names SANCURE 2060, AVALURE UR-410 @ by the company GOODRICH, polyurethanes-acrylic sold under the name NEOREZ R-989 @ by ZENECA.

ponite XLG"par la société Laporte, - 0, 10 % de tensioactif fluoré vendu sous la dénomination"Fluorad FC-143"par la société 3M, - 1, 50 % de pigments - Eau asp 100 %. When the film-forming polymer present in the composition is a polyurethane, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a nail polish, as described in Example 5 of the application EP-A-648485, containing: - 93, 3% aqueous dispersion of anionic polyester-polyurethane 30% by weight of polymer sold under the name "Sancure 2060" by sanncor (aqueous dispersion containing N-dimethyl ethanolamine), - 1, 50% non-polyurethane associative thickener -ionic sold under the name "Dapral T210" by the company Akzo, 0, 20% of sodium silicate and magnesium sold under the name "La-

ponite XLG "by the company Laporte, - 0, 10% of fluorinated surfactant sold under the name" Fluorad FC-143 "by the company 3M, - 1, 50% of pigments - 100% water asp.

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty-chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.

The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols.

<Desc / Clms Page number 8>

L'acide dicarboxylique peut être aliphatique, alicyclique ou aromatique. On peut citer comme exemple de tels acides : l'acide oxalique, l'acide malonique, l'acide diméthylmalonique, l'acide succinique, l'acide glutarique, l'acide adipique, l'acide pimélique, l'acide 2, 2-diméthylglutarique, l'acide azélaïque, l'acide subérique, l'acide sébacique, l'acide fumarique, l'acide maléique, l'acide itaconique, l'acide phtalique, l'acide dodécanedioïque, l'acide 1, 3-cyclohexanedicarboxylique, l'acide 1, 4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylique, l'acide isophtalique, l'acide téréphtalique, l'acide 2, 5-norborane dicarboxylique, l'acide diglycolique, l'acide thiodipropionique, l'acide 2, 5-naphtalènedicarboxylique, l'acide 2, 6-naphta-lènedicarboxylique. Ces mono- mères acide dicarboxylique peuvent être utilisés seuls ou en combinaison d'au moins deux monomères acide dicarboxylique. Parmi ces monomères, on choisit préférentiellement l'acide phtalique, l'acide isophtalique, l'acide téréphtalique.

The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethyl malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, acid 2, 2 -dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, acid 1, 3- cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-acid; naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. A diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol and 4-butanediol is preferably used.

As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane.

The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols.

As the diamine, it is possible to use ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine or meta-para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one -SOgM group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an NH 4 ammonium ion or a metal ion, for example an Na +, Li +, K +, Mg 2+ or Ca 2+ ion, Cu +, Fe2 +, Fe3 +. In particular, it is possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group-SO3M.

l'acide sulfotéréphtalique, l'acide sulfophtalique, l'acide 4-sulfonaphtalène-2, 7dicarboxylique. The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally carrying a group -SO.sub.M as described above may be chosen for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl nuclei. An example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing an -SO 3 M group is sulfoisophthalic acid,

sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2, 7-carboxylic acid.

Copolymers based on isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid and sulphoisophthalic acid, are preferably used in the compositions which are the subject of the invention. Such polymers are sold for example under the trade name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products.

<Desc / Clms Page number 9>

The polymers of natural origin, which may be modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers inside and / or partially at the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes and polyureas. polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called hybrid polymers.

The aqueous dispersion comprising one or more film-forming polymers may be prepared by those skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge.

The size of the solid particles of polymer in aqueous dispersion can range from 10 nm to 500 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 300 nm.

The film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount sufficient to form a film on keratin materials, in particular in a content ranging from 5.01% to 50% by weight, preferably 6%. at 40% by weight, dry matter of film-forming polymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an auxiliary film-forming agent promoting the formation of a film with the particles of the film-forming polymer. Such a film-forming agent may be chosen from all the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular be chosen from plasticizers and coalescing agents.

The medium of the composition of the invention is advantageously an aqueous medium.

This aqueous medium may consist essentially of water or it may also comprise a mixture of water and of a water-miscible solvent such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes. The water content in the composition may range from 40% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight.

 It is also possible to use so-called alkali-soluble polymers by ensuring that the pH of the composition is adjusted to maintain these polymers in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion.

<Desc / Clms Page number 10>

La composition selon l'invention peut en outre comprendre des matières colorantes telles que les colorants hydrosolubles, les matières colorantes pulvérulentes comme que les pigments, les nacres, les paillettes bien connues de l'homme du métier. Les matières colorantes peuvent être présentes, dans la composition, en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition, de préférence de 0,01 % à 30 % en poids.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise dyestuffs such as water-soluble dyes, pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, pearlescent agents, flakes well known to those skilled in the art. The dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise any cosmetic ingredient known to those skilled in the art as being capable of being incorporated in such a composition, such as thickening agents, fillers, spreading agents, wetting agents. , dispersing agents, antifoams, preservatives, UV filters, waxes, oils, cosmetic active agents, surfactants, moisturizers, perfumes, stabilizers, antioxidants. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.

Comparative Examples 1 to 7: 2 nail polish compositions (C1, C2) according to the invention were prepared and 5 compositions (C3 to C7) not forming part of the invention having the following constitution: - Aqueous dispersion of polyurethane containing an aminated base 80 g - Ethanol 3 g - Silicone surfactant (Tegopren 5878 from Goldschmidt) 0.5 g - Methyl sodium paraben 0.4 g - Diazolidinyl urea 0.3 g - Clay (Laporte XLG from Laporte) 1.35 g - Water qs 100 g using different aqueous polymer dispersions comprising different amino bases. The aqueous dispersions used have a polymer solids content ranging from 32% to 42% by weight and an amine base content ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of said dispersion.

<Desc / Clms Page number 11>

Ces compositions ont été stockées pendant 2 semaines à température ambiante (25 OC) et on a observé l'aspect de la composition.

These compositions were stored for 2 weeks at room temperature (25 ° C) and the appearance of the composition was observed.

For each composition, a 300 μm thick wet film was applied to a glass plate and allowed to dry for 24 hours at 30 ° C. at 50% relative humidity. The gloss of the film after drying was measured using a BYK-GARDNER glossmeter with a light beam angle of 600 and the appearance of the film was determined. The following results were obtained:

<Tb>
<tb> Composi-Dispersion <SEP> Base <SEP> Amine <SEP> Stability <SEP> Appearance <SEP> Gloss
<SEP><SEP><SEP><SEP><SEP><SEP> Movie <SEP> Movie <SEP>
<tb> polymer
<tb> C1 <SEP> P1 <SEP> Ammonia <SEP> (9.25) <SEP> stable <SEP> smooth <SEP> 85
<tb> C2 <SEP> P2 <SEP> N, <SEP> N-dimethyl- <SEP> stable <SEP> smooth <SEP> 89
<tb> ethanolamine <SEP> (9.3)
<tb> C3 <SEP> P3 <SEP> Triethylamine <SEP> (10,72) <SEP> Unstable <SEP> Granular <SEP> 41
<tb> C4 <SEP> P4 <SEP> Triethylamine <SEP> Unstable <SEP> Granular <SEP> 32
<tb> C5 <SEP> P5 <SEP> Triethylamine <SEP> unstable <SEP> granular <SEP> 73
<tb> C6 <SEP> P6 <SEP> Triethylamine <SEP> Unstable <SEP> Granular <SEP> 26
<tb> C7 <SEP> P7 <SEP> Dimethylaminopropyl-unstable <SEP> Granular <SEP> 50
<tb> lamin <SEP> (10.02)
<Tb>
P1: Polyurethane-acrylic (Neorez R989 from Avécia-Néoresin) P2: Polyurethane (Avalure UR-410 from Goodrich) P3: Polyurethane (Avalure UR-445 from Goodrich) P4: Polyurethane (Avalure UR-450 from Goodrich) P5: Polyurethane (Avalure UR-405 from Goodrich) P6: Polyurethane (Sancure 2019 from Goodrich) P7: Polyurethane The results obtained show that the nail varnishes C1 and C2 according to the invention comprising a base amine whose pKa is less than 9.9 are stable at room temperature and lead to the formation of a smooth and glossy film (gloss greater than 80), while the compositions C3 to C7, which contain an amino base including pKa is greater than 9.9 are unstable (appearance of syneresis) and forms a granular and less glossy film (gloss less than 75). Thus, only the amino bases of pKa less than 9.9 are therefore compatible with the clay present in the composition.

<Desc / Clms Page number 12>

Exemple 8 :

On a préparé un vernis à ongles ayant la composition suivante : - Dispersion aqueuse de polyuréthane à 35 % de matière sèche contenant de la N, N-diméthyl-éthanolamine (Avalure UR-410) 80g - Ethanol 3 g - Tensioactif siliconé (Tégopren 5878 de la société Goldschmidt) 0,5 g - Méthyl parabène de sodium 0,4 g - Diazolidinyl urée 0,3 g - Argile (Iaponite XLG de la société Laporte) 1,35 g - pigment 1 g - Eau qsp 100 g Ce vernis présente une bonne homogénéité après 2 semaines de conservation à 25 CC. En appliquant ce vernis sur les ongles, on a obtenu un film brillant et lisse.

Example 8

A nail polish having the following composition was prepared: An aqueous polyurethane dispersion containing 35% of dry matter containing N, N-dimethyl-ethanolamine (Avalure UR-410) 80 g, Ethanol 3 g, Silicone surfactant (Tegopren 5878) from Goldschmidt) 0.5 g - Methyl paraben sodium 0.4 g - Diazolidinyl urea 0.3 g - Clay (Iaponite XLG from Laporte) 1.35 g - pigment 1 g - Water qs 100 g This varnish shows good homogeneity after 2 weeks of storage at 25 ° C. Applying this varnish on the nails, we obtained a glossy and smooth film.

Claims (22)

 A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of film-forming polymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion of solid particles, a clay capable of swelling in water and a amine base having a pKa, measured in water at 25 ° C., less than 9.9, the film-forming polymer being chosen from the group formed by polycondensates, polymers of natural origin, radical polymers with the exception of polymers acrylic-styrene. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the clay capable of swelling in water is selected from the group formed by clays of the family of smectites, vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the clay capable of swelling in water is selected from the group formed by montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite, saponites. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the clay capable of swelling in water is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the base amine with a pKa less than or equal to 9.5, and preferably less than or equal to 9.0. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino base is chosen from the group formed by ammonic acid, triethanolamine, N, N-dimethyl ethanolamine, amino-2-methyl- 2-propanol-1 and amino-2-methyl-2-propanediot-1, 3. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino base is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0 to 100% by weight. , 1% to 2% by weight. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid polymer particles have a size ranging from 10 nm to 500 nm. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion is chosen from <Desc / Clms Page number 14>  group formed by radical polymers, polycondensates, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof. 10. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the radical polymers are chosen from the group formed by the vinyl polymers resulting from the polymerization of monomers chosen from α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids, esters of these acids, amides of said acids, vinyl esters, styrenic monomers.

11. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the polycondensates are chosen from the group formed by polyurethanes, polyesters, polyesteramides, polyamides and epoxyester resins. 12. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the polymers of natural origin are chosen from the group formed by shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals and insoluble cellular polymers. in water, and their mixtures. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion is present in a content ranging from 5.01% to 50% by weight of dry film-polymer material, relative to to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 6% to 40% by weight. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one dyestuff. 15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the dyestuff is selected from the group consisting of water-soluble dyes and pulverulent dyestuffs. 16. Composition according to Claim 14 or 15, characterized in that the dyestuff is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably 0.01%. % to 30% by weight. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic ingredient selected from the group consisting of thickeners, fillers, spreading agents, wetting agents, dispersing agents, anti-foams, preservatives, UV filters, waxes, oils, cosmetic active agents, surfactants, moisturizers, perfumes, stabilizers, antioxidants. <Desc / Clms Page number 15>  18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of nail polish, mascara, eyeliner, lip product, blush or eyelids, foundation, body make-up, concealer, sunscreen, skin color, skin care product, hair product.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a nail polish. 20. A cosmetic process for making up or caring for keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. 21. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, to obtain a film-forming composition stable over time and / or to obtain a smooth film and / or gloss deposited on keratin materials. 22. Use of a water-swellable clay, an amine base having a pKa, measured in water at 25 ° C, less than 9.9, of an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of film-forming polymer in a cosmetic composition to obtain a film-forming composition that is stable over time and / or to obtain a smooth and / or glossy film deposited on the keratin materials, the film-forming polymer being chosen from the group formed by the polycondensates, the polymers of natural origin , radical polymers with the exception of acrylic polymers isyrene.