EP0940098A1 - Jewellery piece, watch, decoration or the like - Google Patents

Jewellery piece, watch, decoration or the like Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0940098A1
EP0940098A1 EP98420038A EP98420038A EP0940098A1 EP 0940098 A1 EP0940098 A1 EP 0940098A1 EP 98420038 A EP98420038 A EP 98420038A EP 98420038 A EP98420038 A EP 98420038A EP 0940098 A1 EP0940098 A1 EP 0940098A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
platinum
layer
piece according
barrier layer
thickness
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP98420038A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Pierre Derobert
Eric Toyes
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Joaillier du Vermeil
Original Assignee
Joaillier du Vermeil
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority to FR9610987A priority Critical patent/FR2752689B1/en
Application filed by Joaillier du Vermeil filed Critical Joaillier du Vermeil
Priority to EP98420038A priority patent/EP0940098A1/en
Publication of EP0940098A1 publication Critical patent/EP0940098A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C23—COATING METALLIC MATERIAL; COATING MATERIAL WITH METALLIC MATERIAL; CHEMICAL SURFACE TREATMENT; DIFFUSION TREATMENT OF METALLIC MATERIAL; COATING BY VACUUM EVAPORATION, BY SPUTTERING, BY ION IMPLANTATION OR BY CHEMICAL VAPOUR DEPOSITION, IN GENERAL; INHIBITING CORROSION OF METALLIC MATERIAL OR INCRUSTATION IN GENERAL
    • C23C—COATING METALLIC MATERIAL; COATING MATERIAL WITH METALLIC MATERIAL; SURFACE TREATMENT OF METALLIC MATERIAL BY DIFFUSION INTO THE SURFACE, BY CHEMICAL CONVERSION OR SUBSTITUTION; COATING BY VACUUM EVAPORATION, BY SPUTTERING, BY ION IMPLANTATION OR BY CHEMICAL VAPOUR DEPOSITION, IN GENERAL
    • C23C28/00—Coating for obtaining at least two superposed coatings either by methods not provided for in a single one of groups C23C2/00 - C23C26/00 or by combinations of methods provided for in subclasses C23C and C25C or C25D
    • C23C28/02—Coating for obtaining at least two superposed coatings either by methods not provided for in a single one of groups C23C2/00 - C23C26/00 or by combinations of methods provided for in subclasses C23C and C25C or C25D only coatings only including layers of metallic material
    • C23C28/023—Coating for obtaining at least two superposed coatings either by methods not provided for in a single one of groups C23C2/00 - C23C26/00 or by combinations of methods provided for in subclasses C23C and C25C or C25D only coatings only including layers of metallic material only coatings of metal elements only
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • A44C27/006—Metallic coatings
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C23—COATING METALLIC MATERIAL; COATING MATERIAL WITH METALLIC MATERIAL; CHEMICAL SURFACE TREATMENT; DIFFUSION TREATMENT OF METALLIC MATERIAL; COATING BY VACUUM EVAPORATION, BY SPUTTERING, BY ION IMPLANTATION OR BY CHEMICAL VAPOUR DEPOSITION, IN GENERAL; INHIBITING CORROSION OF METALLIC MATERIAL OR INCRUSTATION IN GENERAL
    • C23C—COATING METALLIC MATERIAL; COATING MATERIAL WITH METALLIC MATERIAL; SURFACE TREATMENT OF METALLIC MATERIAL BY DIFFUSION INTO THE SURFACE, BY CHEMICAL CONVERSION OR SUBSTITUTION; COATING BY VACUUM EVAPORATION, BY SPUTTERING, BY ION IMPLANTATION OR BY CHEMICAL VAPOUR DEPOSITION, IN GENERAL
    • C23C28/00—Coating for obtaining at least two superposed coatings either by methods not provided for in a single one of groups C23C2/00 - C23C26/00 or by combinations of methods provided for in subclasses C23C and C25C or C25D
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D15/00—Electrolytic or electrophoretic production of coatings containing embedded materials, e.g. particles, whiskers, wires
    • C25D15/02—Combined electrolytic and electrophoretic processes with charged materials

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of goldsmithery, jewelry or watchmaking. It is more specifically aimed at the manufacture of objects made from a metal base thin and having a plating of another fine metal. It can be for example jewelry based on silver covered with gold plating. More precisely, it consists of the use of platinum to form a barrier layer interposing between two fine metals.
  • this type of piece is made from a silver base covered with a layer of gold.
  • a layer of gold it has long been observed that at the junction surface between silver and gold, ion migrations took place, due to reactions electrochemical. This phenomenon changes the structure of the gold layer, which results in a degradation of the surface qualities, and the appearance of particularly unsightly silver sulfiding.
  • nickel has an allergenic character and has been progressively prohibited in the precious metal objects industry intended for contact with the skin.
  • One of the problems which the invention therefore proposes to solve is that of the creation of barrier zones between silver and gold using no nickel even in very small proportions.
  • the invention therefore relates to a piece of goldsmith's work, jewelry, clockwork, of the type comprising a base made of a fine metal, a barrier layer covering the base, and an upper layer of another fine metal covering the barrier layer.
  • the part according to the invention is characterized in that the barrier layer is made of platinum.
  • the invention consists in using platinum as a material serving as a barrier zone between two fine metals, such as gold and silver.
  • platinum was known in the fields of the invention only for producing thick outer veneer layers extremely reduced.
  • the mechanical properties of these veneers platinum were far from satisfactory especially in terms of impact resistance and permeability.
  • the invention makes it possible to obtain zones good quality barriers because of relatively large thickness.
  • the platinum of the barrier layers further includes an addition formed from powders of submicron particles.
  • submicron we mean that the powder particles included in platinum have dimensions of the order of a micron.
  • submicron particles are made of a material chosen from the group including among others: silica, tungsten carbide, carbide nitride, diamond and polytetrafluoroethylene.
  • the characteristics can be modified intrinsic properties of platinum, particularly in terms of tension, hardness, color and abrasion resistance.
  • the barrier layer has a thickness of between 1 and 4 microns, and preferably between 2.5 and 3.5 microns.
  • the thicknesses of platinum layers thus obtained are significantly superior to those used for the platinum plating layers constituting the traditional use of platinum.
  • the invention therefore makes it possible to produce goldsmith's or jewelery objects corresponding to the regulated designation "vermeil" for which the thickness of the yellow gold plating layer is greater than 2 microns and generally less than 20 microns.
  • the layer superior of gold has a thickness between 1 and 4 microns. So this layer of gold protects silver from possible areas of permeability of the characteristic platinum layer.
  • each layer in particular that of platinum, are less thick, which improves the mechanical properties of each of these layers, particularly in terms of tension, and results in a better hold of the final piece.
  • the multi-layer part can be subjected to a treatment which has the effect of eliminating certain deposit residues, or even in certain case of making a light alloy at the junction of the different layers between they.
  • the top layer of gold is covered with an additional layer of platinum. So we can make objects corresponding to the regulated designation "white vermeil", which consist of inside on the outside, the silver base, then a characteristic barrier layer in platinum, then an upper layer in gold, then finally an outer layer in platinum.
  • the invention relates to objects used in goldsmithery, in jewelry, jewelry and even watchmaking. So it can be jewelry, watches or precious metal items of a wide variety.
  • the application of the invention is presented to gold-plated silver objects, but the invention also covers parts made of white gold plating on yellow gold, or vice versa or other types of plating of a first fine metal on a second, the essential point being that the layer intermediate or platinum.
  • the procedure is based on silver base, for example from foundry, with the deposit of a characteristic layer of platinum.
  • This deposit can be obtained by a physical, chemical or electrolytic, known per se, which will therefore not be detailed below in detail.
  • the layer platinum barrier preferably has a thickness between 2.5 to 3.5 microns.
  • the invention also covers the embodiments in which the thickness of the platinum will be between 0.5 and 4 or even 5 microns.
  • the next step in making the jewelry is to lay a layer gold upper on the characteristic platinum layer.
  • the layer of white or yellow gold has a thickness between 10 and 20 microns and is produced by deposition physical, galvanic or electrolytic.
  • the upper gold layer has a thickness between 2 and 3 microns. This layer of gold thus provides protection and coverage of the platinum layer and prevents the risks of oxidation and sulphurization of the silver which would permeate from permeable zones of the layer of characteristic platinum.
  • the different superimposed layers can by example have a thickness of one micron and be two or three in number, even more.
  • a heat treatment which has the effect on the one hand, of eliminating possible residues of undesirable deposits, and on the other hand, to cause a slight fusion and therefore an alloy in the areas of joining the platinum layers with the thin metal layers.
  • the thickness of the overlapping layers of platinum and fine metal characteristic of the invention is significantly superior to thicknesses of layers of platinum traditionally used in plating, which are typically on the order of a micron.
  • the invention also covers alternative embodiments in which the jewel obtained as described above receives a layer of exterior plating also produced in platinum, thanks to a physical, electrolytic or chemical deposit.
  • the thickness of the plating layer is greater than three microns, and advantageously between ten and twenty microns.
  • the platinum used to make the barrier layer and the possible plating layer may contain submicron powder particles. So, for example when preparing the platinum before depositing, some powders are incorporated to modify the mechanical or aesthetic characteristics of platinum.
  • diamond powder or a hard metal powder such as tungsten carbide or nitride.
  • thermoplastic materials such as polyethylene tetrafluoride marketed under the registered trademark TEFLON®. You can also incorporate powders such as silica or other oxides for obtaining color effects particularly aesthetic.
  • the articles of goldsmithery or jewelry conforming to the invention have many advantages over equivalent jewelry previously.
  • the mechanical properties there may be mentioned a increased thickness, resistance to impact and friction.

Abstract

The material comprises a base layer, e.g. of silver or white gold, covered with a layer of precious metal and plated with platinum. The platinum coating contains microscopic particles of other materials, selected from the group comprising silicium, tungsten carbide, nitride carbide, diamond and PTFE. The platinum coating is 2.5-3.5 mu m thick, and it can be applied by chemical, physical or electrolytic means.

Description

Domaine techniqueTechnical area

L'invention se rattache au domaine de l'orfévrerie, la bijouterie ou l'horlogerie. Elle vise plus précisément la fabrication d'objets réalisés à partir d'une base en métal fin et présentant un placage en un autre métal fin. Il peut s'agir par exemple de bijoux à base d'argent recouvert d'un placage d'or. Elle consiste plus précisément en l'utilisation de platine pour constituer une couche barrière d'interposition entre les deux métaux fins.The invention relates to the field of goldsmithery, jewelry or watchmaking. It is more specifically aimed at the manufacture of objects made from a metal base thin and having a plating of another fine metal. It can be for example jewelry based on silver covered with gold plating. More precisely, it consists of the use of platinum to form a barrier layer interposing between two fine metals.

Techniques antérieuresPrevious techniques

La réalisation de pièces d'orfévrerie ou de bijoux réalisés à base d'argent doré, plus connu sous l'appellation "vermeil" est connue depuis de nombreux siècles.The production of goldsmith or jewelry pieces made from gilded silver, better known as "vermeil" has been known for many centuries.

Ainsi, ce type de pièce est réalisé à partir d'une base en argent recouverte d'une couche d'or. Or, on a observé depuis longtemps qu'au niveau de la surface de jonction entre l'argent et l'or, des migrations d'ions avaient lieu, dues à des réactions électrochimiques. Ce phénomène modifie la structure de la couche d'or, ce qui se traduit par une dégradation des qualités superficielles, et l'apparition de tâches de sulfuration de l'argent particulièrement inesthétiques.Thus, this type of piece is made from a silver base covered with a layer of gold. However, it has long been observed that at the junction surface between silver and gold, ion migrations took place, due to reactions electrochemical. This phenomenon changes the structure of the gold layer, which results in a degradation of the surface qualities, and the appearance of particularly unsightly silver sulfiding.

Pour pallier cet inconvénient, on a proposé, avant de plaquer la couche d'or sur l'argent, de déposer sur la base d'argent une couche intermédiaire en un matériau différent, servant de barrière et interdisant la migration d'ions. Historiquement, on a d'abord utilisé du nickel pour former cette couche frontière. Par la suite, on a progressivement remplacé le nickel par un alliage de palladium et de nickel.
   Or, le coût d'un tel alliage palladium-nickel est très important et augmente le prix de revient d'une pièce ainsi réalisée.To overcome this drawback, it has been proposed, before plating the layer of gold on the silver, to deposit on the silver base an intermediate layer of a different material, serving as a barrier and preventing the migration of ions. Historically, nickel was first used to form this boundary layer. Subsequently, nickel was gradually replaced by an alloy of palladium and nickel.
However, the cost of such a palladium-nickel alloy is very high and increases the cost price of a part thus produced.

En outre et surtout, le nickel présente un caractère allergène et a été progressivement prohibé dans l'industrie de fabrication des objets en métaux précieux destinés au contact avec la peau.Furthermore and above all, nickel has an allergenic character and has been progressively prohibited in the precious metal objects industry intended for contact with the skin.

Un des problèmes que se propose donc de résoudre l'invention est celui de la réalisation de zones barrières entre l'argent et l'or n'utilisant pas de nickel même en très faibles proportions.One of the problems which the invention therefore proposes to solve is that of the creation of barrier zones between silver and gold using no nickel even in very small proportions.

Par ailleurs, on connaít des bijoux réalisés en argent plaqué platine qui présentent un éclat caractéristique très recherché. Or, compte tenu des techniques de fabrications existantes, les couches de placage de tels bijoux sont d'une épaisseur extrêmement réduite. En effet, les couches de platine actuellement obtenues sont très fines et très tendues et par conséquent perméables et relativement cassantes. On observe le même inconvénient à un degré encore supérieur, avec les couches de placage en palladium pur.Furthermore, we know jewelry made of platinum plated silver which have a highly desirable characteristic luster. However, given the techniques of existing manufacturing, the plating layers of such jewelry are thick extremely reduced. Indeed, the platinum layers currently obtained are very fine and very taut and therefore permeable and relatively brittle. We observes the same disadvantage to an even greater degree, with the layers of plating in pure palladium.

En outre, il est également connu de recouvrir les bijoux à base d'argent d'une couche de rhodium qui protège l'argent d'une oxydation en formant une barrière vis-à-vis de l'air ambiant. Or, si le rhodium est très résistant et confère aux bijoux ainsi obtenus une bonne tenue aux chocs, en revanche son éclat est relativement médiocre.In addition, it is also known to cover silver-based jewelry with a rhodium layer which protects silver from oxidation by forming a barrier against ambient air. However, if the rhodium is very resistant and gives the jewelry as well obtained good impact resistance, on the other hand its brightness is relatively poor.

Exposé de l'inventionStatement of the invention

L'invention concerne donc une pièce d'orfévrerie, de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie, du type comportant une base réalisée en un métal fin, une couche barrière recouvrant la base, et une couche supérieure en un autre métal fin recouvrant la couche barrière.
   La pièce conforme à l'invention se caractérise en ce que la couche barrière est en platine.The invention therefore relates to a piece of goldsmith's work, jewelry, clockwork, of the type comprising a base made of a fine metal, a barrier layer covering the base, and an upper layer of another fine metal covering the barrier layer.
The part according to the invention is characterized in that the barrier layer is made of platinum.

Autrement dit, l'invention consiste à utiliser le platine en tant que matériau servant de zone barrière entre deux métaux fins, comme par exemple l'or et l'argent. Or, comme déjà dit, l'utilisation du platine était connue dans les domaines de l'invention uniquement pour réaliser des couches de placage extérieur d'épaisseur extrêmement réduite. Comme déjà dit, les propriétés mécaniques de ces placages de platine étaient loin d'être satisfaisantes notamment en terme de résistance aux chocs et de perméabilité. Or, par effet surprenant, l'invention permet d'obtenir des zones barrières de bonne qualité car d'épaisseur relativement importante.In other words, the invention consists in using platinum as a material serving as a barrier zone between two fine metals, such as gold and silver. However, as already said, the use of platinum was known in the fields of the invention only for producing thick outer veneer layers extremely reduced. As already said, the mechanical properties of these veneers platinum were far from satisfactory especially in terms of impact resistance and permeability. However, by surprising effect, the invention makes it possible to obtain zones good quality barriers because of relatively large thickness.

Par ailleurs, compte tenu du prix du platine, l'homme de métier serait dissuadé d'utiliser un tel matériau pour réaliser la zone frontière dont l'épaisseur est nettement supérieure à l'épaisseur d'une couche de placage de platine traditionnel. Furthermore, given the price of platinum, the skilled person would be dissuaded to use such a material to make the border area whose thickness is clearly greater than the thickness of a layer of traditional platinum plating.

Dans une forme perfectionnée de l'invention, le platine des couches barrières comprend en outre un ajout formé de poudres de particules submicronales. Par submicronales, on entend que les particules de poudre incluses dans le platine ont des dimensions de l'ordre du micron.In an improved form of the invention, the platinum of the barrier layers further includes an addition formed from powders of submicron particles. Through submicron, we mean that the powder particles included in platinum have dimensions of the order of a micron.

En pratique, les particules submicronales sont en un matériau choisi dans le groupe comprenant entre autres: la silice, le carbure de tungstène, le carbure de nitrure, le diamant et le polytétrafluoroéthylène.In practice, submicron particles are made of a material chosen from the group including among others: silica, tungsten carbide, carbide nitride, diamond and polytetrafluoroethylene.

Ainsi, en fonction de la poudre utilisée, on peut modifier les caractéristiques intrinsèques du platine notamment en termes de tension, de dureté, de coloris et de résistance à l'abrasion.Thus, depending on the powder used, the characteristics can be modified intrinsic properties of platinum, particularly in terms of tension, hardness, color and abrasion resistance.

En pratique, la couche barrière a une épaisseur comprise entre 1 et 4 microns, et de préférence comprise entre 2,5 et 3,5 microns. Comme déjà dit, les épaisseurs de couches de platine ainsi obtenues sont nettement supérieures à celles employées pour les couches de placage de platine constituant l'utilisation traditionnelle du platine.In practice, the barrier layer has a thickness of between 1 and 4 microns, and preferably between 2.5 and 3.5 microns. As already said, the thicknesses of platinum layers thus obtained are significantly superior to those used for the platinum plating layers constituting the traditional use of platinum.

L'invention permet donc de réaliser des objets d'orfèvrerie ou de bijouterie correspondant à l'appellation réglementée "vermeil" pour laquelle l'épaisseur de la couche de placage en or jaune est supérieure à 2 microns et généralement inférieure à 20 microns.The invention therefore makes it possible to produce goldsmith's or jewelery objects corresponding to the regulated designation "vermeil" for which the thickness of the yellow gold plating layer is greater than 2 microns and generally less than 20 microns.

Il est également possible de réaliser des objets dans lesquels la couche supérieure d'or présente une épaisseur comprise entre 1 et 4 microns. Ainsi, cette couche d'or assure une protection de l'argent contre les éventuelles zones de perméabilité de la couche caractéristique de platine.It is also possible to make objects in which the layer superior of gold has a thickness between 1 and 4 microns. So this layer of gold protects silver from possible areas of permeability of the characteristic platinum layer.

Il peut également s'avérer avantageux de réaliser une pièce d'orfèvrerie ou de bijouterie prenant une succession de couches superposées en métal fin entre chacune desquelles est intercalée une couche barrière caractéristique en platine. On réalise ainsi un élément multi-couches dans lequel chaque couche, notamment celle de platine, sont d'épaisseur moindre, ce qui améliore les propriétés mécaniques de chacune de ces couches, notamment en termes de tension, et se traduit par une meilleure tenue de la pièce finale. It may also be advantageous to make a piece of gold or silver jewelry taking a succession of superimposed layers of fine metal between each which is interposed with a characteristic platinum barrier layer. We realize thus a multi-layer element in which each layer, in particular that of platinum, are less thick, which improves the mechanical properties of each of these layers, particularly in terms of tension, and results in a better hold of the final piece.

Avantageusement, on peut faire subir à la pièce multi-couches un traitement thermique qui a pour effet d'éliminer certains résidus de dépôt, voire dans certains cas de réaliser un léger alliage au niveau de la jonction des différentes couches entre elles.Advantageously, the multi-layer part can be subjected to a treatment which has the effect of eliminating certain deposit residues, or even in certain case of making a light alloy at the junction of the different layers between they.

Dans une autre forme de réalisation de l'invention, la couche supérieure d'or est recouverte d'une couche supplémentaire en platine. Ainsi, on peut réaliser des objets correspondant à l'appellation réglementée "vermeil blanc", qui sont constitués, de l'intérieur à l'extérieur, de la base en argent, puis d'une couche barrière caractéristique en platine, puis une couche supérieure en or, puis enfin d'une couche extérieure en platine.In another embodiment of the invention, the top layer of gold is covered with an additional layer of platinum. So we can make objects corresponding to the regulated designation "white vermeil", which consist of inside on the outside, the silver base, then a characteristic barrier layer in platinum, then an upper layer in gold, then finally an outer layer in platinum.

Manières de réaliser l'inventionWays to realize the invention

Comme déjà dit, l'invention concerne les objets utilisés en orfévrerie, en bijouterie, en joaillerie et voire en horlogerie. Il peut donc s'agir de bijoux, de montres ou d'articles de métal précieux de type très variés.As already said, the invention relates to objects used in goldsmithery, in jewelry, jewelry and even watchmaking. So it can be jewelry, watches or precious metal items of a wide variety.

Dans la suite de la description, on présente l'application de l'invention à des objets d'argent plaqués or, mais l'invention couvre également les pièces réalisées en plaquage d'or blanc sur or jaune, ou vice versa ou encore d'autres types de plaquage d'un premier métal fin sur un second, le point essentiel étant que la couche intermédiaire soit en platine.In the following description, the application of the invention is presented to gold-plated silver objects, but the invention also covers parts made of white gold plating on yellow gold, or vice versa or other types of plating of a first fine metal on a second, the essential point being that the layer intermediate or platinum.

Ainsi, pour réaliser un bijou conforme à l'invention, on procède sur l'objet de base en argent, issu par exemple de fonderie, au dépôt d'une couche caractéristique de platine. Ce dépôt peut s'obtenir par un procédé physique, chimique ou électrolytique, connu en soi, qui ne sera donc pas détaillé ci-après en détail.Thus, to make a piece of jewelry in accordance with the invention, the procedure is based on silver base, for example from foundry, with the deposit of a characteristic layer of platinum. This deposit can be obtained by a physical, chemical or electrolytic, known per se, which will therefore not be detailed below in detail.

Conformément à une caractéristique essentielle de l'invention, la couche barrière en platine présente de préférence une épaisseur comprise entre 2,5 à 3,5 microns. Bien entendu, l'invention couvre également les réalisations dans lesquelles l'épaisseur de platine sera comprise entre 0,5 et 4 voire 5 microns.In accordance with an essential characteristic of the invention, the layer platinum barrier preferably has a thickness between 2.5 to 3.5 microns. Of course, the invention also covers the embodiments in which the thickness of the platinum will be between 0.5 and 4 or even 5 microns.

L'étape suivante de fabrication du bijou consiste à déposer une couche supérieure en or sur la couche de platine caractéristique. The next step in making the jewelry is to lay a layer gold upper on the characteristic platinum layer.

Plusieurs cas de figures sont envisageables. Ainsi, si l'on souhaite réaliser un objet répondant à l'appellation réglementée "vermeil", la couche d'or blanc ou jaune présente une épaisseur comprise entre 10 et 20 microns et est réalisée par dépôt physique, galvanique ou électrolytique.Several scenarios are possible. So if you want to make a object corresponding to the regulated designation "vermeil", the layer of white or yellow gold has a thickness between 10 and 20 microns and is produced by deposition physical, galvanic or electrolytic.

Dans le cas où l'on souhaite uniquement réaliser une couche de protection de la couche de platine caractéristique, la couche d'or supérieure présente une épaisseur comprise entre 2 et 3 microns. Cette couche d'or réalise ainsi une protection et une couverture de la couche de platine et permet de prévenir les risques d'oxydation et de sulfuration de l'argent qu'occasiouneraient des zones perméables de la couche de platine caractéristique.If you only want to make a protective layer of the characteristic platinum layer, the upper gold layer has a thickness between 2 and 3 microns. This layer of gold thus provides protection and coverage of the platinum layer and prevents the risks of oxidation and sulphurization of the silver which would permeate from permeable zones of the layer of characteristic platinum.

Comme déjà dit, il peut s'avérer avantageux de réaliser une succession de dépôts alternés de couches de métal fin et de couches barrière de platine. Dans ce cas, il est possible de diminuer l'épaisseur des couches de barrière de barrière en platine, ce qui est favorable en termes de tension. On augmente ainsi la résistance mécanique globale de la pièce réalisée. Ainsi, les différentes couches superposées peuvent par exemple avoir une épaisseur de un micron et être au nombre de deux ou trois, voire plus. Pour assurer une bonne homogénéité des propriétés mécaniques de l'ensemble multi-couches, on peut être amené à soumettre cet élément à un traitement thermique, ce qui a pour effet d'une part, d'éliminer d'éventuels résidus de dépôts indésirables, et d'autre part, de provoquer une légère fusion et donc un alliage au niveau des zones de jonction des couches de platine avec les couches de métal fin.As already said, it can be advantageous to carry out a succession of alternating deposits of thin metal layers and platinum barrier layers. In that case, it is possible to reduce the thickness of the platinum barrier barrier layers, which is favorable in terms of tension. This increases mechanical resistance overall of the produced piece. Thus, the different superimposed layers can by example have a thickness of one micron and be two or three in number, even more. To ensure good homogeneity of the mechanical properties of the assembly multi-layers, it may be necessary to subject this element to a heat treatment, which has the effect on the one hand, of eliminating possible residues of undesirable deposits, and on the other hand, to cause a slight fusion and therefore an alloy in the areas of joining the platinum layers with the thin metal layers.

Il est important de noter que l'épaisseur de la superposition des couches de platine et de métal fin caractéristique de l'invention est nettement supérieure aux épaisseurs de couches de platine utilisée en placage traditionnellement, qui sont typiquement de l'ordre du micron.It is important to note that the thickness of the overlapping layers of platinum and fine metal characteristic of the invention is significantly superior to thicknesses of layers of platinum traditionally used in plating, which are typically on the order of a micron.

L'invention couvre également les variantes de réalisation dans lesquelles le bijou obtenu comme décrit précédemment reçoit une couche de placage extérieur réalisée également en platine, grâce à un dépôt physique, électrolytique ou chimique.The invention also covers alternative embodiments in which the jewel obtained as described above receives a layer of exterior plating also produced in platinum, thanks to a physical, electrolytic or chemical deposit.

Dans ce cas, l'épaisseur de la couche de placage est supérieure à trois microns, et avantageusement comprise entre dix et vingt microns. In this case, the thickness of the plating layer is greater than three microns, and advantageously between ten and twenty microns.

Conformément à une caractéristique importante de l'invention, le platine utilisé pour réaliser la couche barrière et l'éventuelle couche de placage peut contenir des particules de poudre submicronales. Ainsi, par exemple lors de la préparation du platine avant son dépôt, on incorpore certaines poudres permettant de modifier les caractéristiques mécaniques ou esthétiques du platine.In accordance with an important characteristic of the invention, the platinum used to make the barrier layer and the possible plating layer may contain submicron powder particles. So, for example when preparing the platinum before depositing, some powders are incorporated to modify the mechanical or aesthetic characteristics of platinum.

Ainsi, si l'on souhaite augmenter la dureté de la couche de platine, on choisit une poudre de diamant, ou de métal dur comme par exemple le carbure de tungstène ou de nitrure.So if you want to increase the hardness of the platinum layer, you choose diamond powder, or a hard metal powder such as tungsten carbide or nitride.

Par ailleurs, si l'on souhaite augmenter la résistance de la couche de placage à l'usure, aux frottements et aux glissements, on choisit d'incorporer une poudre de matières thermoplastiques comme par exemple du polytétrafluorure d'éthylène commercialisé sous la marque déposée TEFLON®. On peut également incorporer des poudres telles que la silice ou autres oxydes permettant d'obtenir des effets de couleur particulièrement esthétiques.Furthermore, if it is desired to increase the resistance of the plating layer to wear, friction and slippage, we choose to incorporate a powder of thermoplastic materials such as polyethylene tetrafluoride marketed under the registered trademark TEFLON®. You can also incorporate powders such as silica or other oxides for obtaining color effects particularly aesthetic.

Ainsi, les articles d'orfèvrerie ou de bijouterie conformes à l'invention présentent de nombreux avantages par rapport aux bijoux équivalents réalisés antérieurement. En ce qui concerne les propriétés mécaniques, on peut citer une augmentation d'épaisseur, de la résistance aux chocs et aux frottements. Sur le point de vue esthétique, on obtient des articles présentant un éclat et des coloris supérieurs à ceux obtenus notamment grâce au placage de rhodium.Thus, the articles of goldsmithery or jewelry conforming to the invention have many advantages over equivalent jewelry previously. With regard to the mechanical properties, there may be mentioned a increased thickness, resistance to impact and friction. About from an aesthetic point of view, we obtain articles with a higher shine and colors to those obtained in particular thanks to the plating of rhodium.

En outre, l'emploi de platine élimine toute utilisation de nickel, ce qui correspond aux futures normes de réglementation.In addition, the use of platinum eliminates all use of nickel, which corresponds to future regulatory standards.

Claims (10)

Pièce d'orfévrerie, de bijouterie, de joaillerie, d'horlogerie ou analogue, du type comportant une base en métal fin, une couche barrière recouvrant la base, et une couche supérieure en un autre métal fin adhérant à la couche barrière, caractérisée en ce que la couche barrière est en platine.Piece of goldsmith's work, jewelry, clockwork or the like, of the type comprising a base of fine metal, a barrier layer covering the base, and an upper layer of another fine metal adhering to the barrier layer, characterized in that the barrier layer is platinum. Pièce selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le platine de la couche barrière comprend en outre un ajout de particules submicronales.Piece according to claim 1, characterized in that the platinum of the barrier layer further comprises an addition of submicron particles. Pièce selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que les poudres submicronales sont en un matériau choisi dans le groupe comprenant la silice, le carbure de tungstène, le carbure de nitrure, le diamant et le polytétrafluoroéthylène.Piece according to claim 2, characterized in that the submicron powders are made of a material chosen from the group comprising silica, tungsten carbide, nitride carbide, diamond and polytetrafluoroethylene. Pièce selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que la couche barrière a une épaisseur comprise entre 0,5 et 4 microns.Piece according to claim 1, characterized in that the barrier layer has a thickness of between 0.5 and 4 microns. Pièce selon la revendication 4, caractérisée en ce que la couche barrière a une épaisseur comprise entre 2,5 et 3,5 microns.Piece according to claim 4, characterized in that the barrier layer has a thickness of between 2.5 and 3.5 microns. Pièce selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend une succession de couches superposées en métal fin entre chacune desquelles est intercalée une couche barrière en platine.Piece according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises a succession of superimposed layers of fine metal between each of which is interposed a barrier layer of platinum. Pièce selon l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce qu'elle a subi un traitement thermique.Piece according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it has undergone a heat treatment. Pièce selon l'une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que la base est réalisée en argent et en ce que la couche supérieure est réalisée en or.Piece according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the base is made in silver and in that the upper layer is made in gold. Pièce selon l'une des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce que la couche supérieure est recouverte d'une couche supplémentaire en platine.Piece according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the upper layer is covered with an additional layer of platinum. Pièce selon la revendication 9, caractérisée en ce que la couche supplémentaire de platine présente une épaisseur comprise entre 10 et 20 microns.Piece according to claim 9, characterized in that the additional layer of platinum has a thickness between 10 and 20 microns.
EP98420038A 1996-09-04 1998-03-03 Jewellery piece, watch, decoration or the like Withdrawn EP0940098A1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9610987A FR2752689B1 (en) 1996-09-04 1996-09-04 PIECE OF SILVERWARE, JEWELERY, JEWELERY, WATCHMAKING, DECORATION OR THE LIKE
EP98420038A EP0940098A1 (en) 1996-09-04 1998-03-03 Jewellery piece, watch, decoration or the like

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9610987A FR2752689B1 (en) 1996-09-04 1996-09-04 PIECE OF SILVERWARE, JEWELERY, JEWELERY, WATCHMAKING, DECORATION OR THE LIKE
EP98420038A EP0940098A1 (en) 1996-09-04 1998-03-03 Jewellery piece, watch, decoration or the like

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CH713746A1 (en) * 2017-04-28 2018-10-31 Montblanc Montre Sa Method of depositing a gold coating on an article and article obtained by this method
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EP3416825A4 (en) * 2016-02-16 2019-11-06 Xtalic Corporation Articles including nickel-free coating and methods
CH713746A1 (en) * 2017-04-28 2018-10-31 Montblanc Montre Sa Method of depositing a gold coating on an article and article obtained by this method

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FR2752689B1 (en) 1998-10-23

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