EP0605284A1 - Feste oder pastöse Schminke und Herstellungsverfahren - Google Patents
Feste oder pastöse Schminke und Herstellungsverfahren Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0605284A1 EP0605284A1 EP93403096A EP93403096A EP0605284A1 EP 0605284 A1 EP0605284 A1 EP 0605284A1 EP 93403096 A EP93403096 A EP 93403096A EP 93403096 A EP93403096 A EP 93403096A EP 0605284 A1 EP0605284 A1 EP 0605284A1
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- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
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- light powder
- Prior art date
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- BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N arachidyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021302 avocado oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008163 avocado oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K azanium;manganese(3+);phosphonato phosphate Chemical compound [NH4+].[Mn+3].[O-]P([O-])(=O)OP([O-])([O-])=O UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013871 bee wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000012166 beeswax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940116226 behenic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UCMIRNVEIXFBKS-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-alanine Chemical compound NCCC(O)=O UCMIRNVEIXFBKS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940000635 beta-alanine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(16-methylheptadecyl) 2-hydroxybutanedioate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052791 calcium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011575 calcium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006229 carbon black Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001732 carboxylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000004203 carnauba wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013869 carnauba wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000009903 catalytic hydrogenation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000919 ceramic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- PZTQVMXMKVTIRC-UHFFFAOYSA-L chembl2028348 Chemical compound [Ca+2].[O-]S(=O)(=O)C1=CC(C)=CC=C1N=NC1=C(O)C(C([O-])=O)=CC2=CC=CC=C12 PZTQVMXMKVTIRC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GRFFKYTUNTWAGG-UHFFFAOYSA-N chloroethene;prop-2-enenitrile Chemical compound ClC=C.C=CC#N GRFFKYTUNTWAGG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N cis-oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003240 coconut oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019864 coconut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001436 collagen Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000007799 cork Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005822 corn Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000005687 corn oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002285 corn oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012343 cottonseed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002385 cottonseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940086624 d&c orange no. 10 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940075493 d&c red no. 6 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940057946 d&c red no. 7 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000000593 degrading effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002781 deodorant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940105990 diglycerin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N diglycerol Chemical compound OCC(O)COCC(O)CO GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013305 food Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000000227 grinding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940100463 hexyl laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000000265 homogenisation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(II,III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]O[Fe]=O SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]=O JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-L isophthalate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C1=CC=CC(C([O-])=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 125000001449 isopropyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940070765 laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960004488 linolenic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KQQKGWQCNNTQJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N linolenic acid Natural products CC=CCCC=CCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O KQQKGWQCNNTQJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052744 lithium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- HGPXWXLYXNVULB-UHFFFAOYSA-M lithium stearate Chemical compound [Li+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O HGPXWXLYXNVULB-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 235000010187 litholrubine BK Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940105112 magnesium myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- DMRBHZWQMKSQGR-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium;tetradecanoate Chemical compound [Mg+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O DMRBHZWQMKSQGR-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001333 moisturizer Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012170 montan wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940105132 myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Pentadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 231100000252 nontoxic Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000003000 nontoxic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021313 oleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011368 organic material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000312 peanut oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- ULLDRQCJTSHDDT-UHFFFAOYSA-N penta-2,3,4-trienenitrile Chemical compound C=C=C=CC#N ULLDRQCJTSHDDT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940066842 petrolatum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001921 poly-methyl-phenyl-siloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004405 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010232 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960003415 propylparaben Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940100486 rice starch Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000008159 sesame oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011803 sesame oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-GLCFPVLVSA-K tartrazine Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=NN(C=2C=CC(=CC=2)S([O-])(=O)=O)C(=O)C1\N=N\C1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-GLCFPVLVSA-K 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KHPCPRHQVVSZAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-cinnamyl beta-D-glucopyranoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OCC=CC1=CC=CC=C1 KHPCPRHQVVSZAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940098697 zinc laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;dodecanoate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
- A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
- B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
- B29C48/00—Extrusion moulding, i.e. expressing the moulding material through a die or nozzle which imparts the desired form; Apparatus therefor
- B29C48/25—Component parts, details or accessories; Auxiliary operations
- B29C48/36—Means for plasticising or homogenising the moulding material or forcing it through the nozzle or die
- B29C48/395—Means for plasticising or homogenising the moulding material or forcing it through the nozzle or die using screws surrounded by a cooperating barrel, e.g. single screw extruders
- B29C48/40—Means for plasticising or homogenising the moulding material or forcing it through the nozzle or die using screws surrounded by a cooperating barrel, e.g. single screw extruders using two or more parallel screws or at least two parallel non-intermeshing screws, e.g. twin screw extruders
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
- B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
- B29C48/00—Extrusion moulding, i.e. expressing the moulding material through a die or nozzle which imparts the desired form; Apparatus therefor
- B29C48/25—Component parts, details or accessories; Auxiliary operations
- B29C48/36—Means for plasticising or homogenising the moulding material or forcing it through the nozzle or die
- B29C48/395—Means for plasticising or homogenising the moulding material or forcing it through the nozzle or die using screws surrounded by a cooperating barrel, e.g. single screw extruders
- B29C48/40—Means for plasticising or homogenising the moulding material or forcing it through the nozzle or die using screws surrounded by a cooperating barrel, e.g. single screw extruders using two or more parallel screws or at least two parallel non-intermeshing screws, e.g. twin screw extruders
- B29C48/405—Intermeshing co-rotating screws
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
- B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
- B29C48/00—Extrusion moulding, i.e. expressing the moulding material through a die or nozzle which imparts the desired form; Apparatus therefor
- B29C48/25—Component parts, details or accessories; Auxiliary operations
- B29C48/36—Means for plasticising or homogenising the moulding material or forcing it through the nozzle or die
- B29C48/50—Details of extruders
- B29C48/505—Screws
- B29C48/57—Screws provided with kneading disc-like elements, e.g. with oval-shaped elements
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a makeup composition containing a high proportion of light powder and to a process for the manufacture of these compositions.
- these two types of compositions are prepared with powders having a density greater than about 0.5. It would be desirable to introduce into these makeup compositions light powders, that is to say a density at most equal to 0.07 to improve their feel. However, until now, it has been possible to introduce only limited quantities of light powders, these quantities generally not exceeding approximately 4.5% by weight of the composition.
- the present invention therefore relates to a solid or pasty makeup composition containing an oily phase and a pulverulent phase, the pulverulent phase being at least partially made up of a light powder, characterized in that the light powder has a density at most equal to O, O7 and represents from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio of the total pulverulent phase to the light powder being between 5 and 16 and that the fatty phase represents from 20 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the fatty phase preferably represents from 20 to 50% by weight of the composition, the pulverulent phase therefore representing from 50 to 80% by weight of the composition, which corresponds to the manufacture of makeup compositions of the cast type or of the compacted type.
- the pulverulent phase advantageously contains powders having a higher density than that of the light powder.
- These powders can be any known powder conventionally used for the preparation of makeup compositions, these powders being able to comprise at least one pigment and / or at least one filler.
- the pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and pearlescent pigments.
- the pigments D & C red No. 19 (CI 45170); D & C red n ° 9 (CI 15585); D & C red n ° 21 (CI 45380); D & C orange n ° 4 (CI 15510); D & C orange n ° 5 (CI 45370); D & C red n ° 27 (CI 45410); D & C red n ° 13 (CI 15630); D & C red No. 7 (CI 15850: 1); D & C red No.
- These pigments can represent up to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- mineral powders such as spherical silica, spherical titanium dioxides such as "SPHERITITAN” (registered trademark), glass and ceramic beads sold by the company “3M” under the trade names “MACROLITES” are used; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as starches from corn, wheat, rice, crosslinked or not; powders of synthetic polymers (optionally crosslinked) spheronized, such as powders of polyamides (for example nylon or poly- ⁇ -alanine), polyethylene, poly-methacrylic acids, polystyrene (crosslinked by divinylbenzene), of silicone resin, of teflon (for example: “FLUON”, particles sold by the company “MONTEFLUOS”; “HOSTAFLONQ", particles sold by the company "HOECHST”).
- polyamides for example nylon or poly- ⁇ -alanine
- polyethylene poly-methacrylic acids
- polystyrene crosslinked by divinylbenzene
- silicone resin
- These fillers can represent up to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Pigments and fillers can be coated with substances such as amino acids, silicones, metal salts or collagen, in particular in order to modify their surface state.
- the fatty phase consists of at least one fatty binder, liquid or solid at room temperature, and / or at least one oil-soluble synthetic polymer whose use in cosmetics is known.
- binders mention may be made, in particular, of oils or fatty substances of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, waxes or their mixtures.
- oils or fatty substances are, in particular, chosen from mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, seed oil of reason, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil or peanut oil; a hydrocarbon oil, such as paraffin oils, squalane, petrolatum; esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, 2-di-ethyl-hexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, glycerin triisostearate or triisostearate
- the waxes can be chosen from the group formed by animal waxes, vegetable waxes, mineral waxes, synthetic waxes and various fractions of natural waxes.
- animal waxes which can be used, mention may be made of beeswaxes, lanolin waxes and Chinese insect waxes.
- vegetable waxes mention may be made of carnauba, candelila, ouricurry wax, cork fiber waxes, sugar cane waxes, Japanese waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and hydrogenated oils which are obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of fatty substances composed of fatty chain, linear or not, in C8-C32 and which have the qualities corresponding to the definition of waxes.
- mineral waxes there may be mentioned paraffins, microcrystalline waxes, Montan waxes and ozokerites.
- synthetic waxes mention may be made of polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by the synthesis of Fisher and Tropsch, waxy copolymers and their esters, and silicone waxes such as polyalkoxy and polyalkylsiloxanes.
- the fatty phase can, in known manner, contain at least one lipophilic cosmetic active.
- compositions according to the invention can be introduced into the compositions according to the invention, such as astringent agents, which are used in deodorant powders or in powders for the feet, such as aluminum hydroxychloride or alums; sun filters; softening agents; moisturizers (for example, sorbitol, glycerin); healing agents; anti-free radical agents; vitamins ; perfumes.
- These ingredients can represent up to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the present invention also relates to a process for preparing the composition described above.
- the present invention therefore relates to a process for the preparation of a homogeneous composition consisting of an oily phase and a pulverulent phase containing from 5 to 30% by weight of light powder having a density at most equal to 0.07, characterized by the fact that mixing takes place in an extruder-cooker mixer comprising one or two screws.
- the extruder-cooker mixers which can be used according to the invention are devices of known type, used in particular in the food industry and the chemical industry. These mixers comprise an outer casing provided at the outlet with an extrusion die, casing inside which one or two shafts are rotated so that the peripheral structure of a shaft cooperates with the outer casing and, where appropriate, with the peripheral structure of the other shaft, to ensure mixing of the material and its movement in the external envelope towards the extrusion die.
- the shaft (or each of the shafts) consists of at least two successive sleeves, the inner part of which fits on an axis driven in rotation and the outer part of which can have various peripheral structures; among the conventional structures, one can cite, on the one hand, a helical screw thread whose pitch leads the treated material from the inlet to the outlet of the mixer (designated more far by "DF"), on the other hand, a thread of helical screw with pitch opposite to the previous one (designated later by "CF”) which pushes the treated material in the direction going from the exit towards the entry of the mixer, such a thread comprising longitudinal grooves to ensure the passage of the material towards the outlet of the mixer, and finally, a multilobed section comprising over its entire length of pallets (or lobes) arranged side by side and angularly offset with respect to each other .
- DF helical screw thread
- CF helical screw with pitch opposite to the previous one
- a bilobed section therefore comprises a succession of lobes offset by 90 ° relative to each other and is designated below by "BL".
- a fairly large number of sleeves with external threads may be available to vary the pitch, the depth and the number of threads in the different successive longitudinal zones of the mixer.
- certain longitudinal zones of the mixer can be heated by one or more sleeves arranged outside the outer casing. Heating can be carried out in each sheath using at least one electrical resistance or at least one heat exchanger.
- the shaft or each shaft of the extruder-cooker mixer preferably comprises at least one sleeve "DF” forming a transport screw situated on the supply side (or inlet) of the mixer, at least one "CF” sleeve (said to be “stripped") and / or a "BL” multilobe sleeve constituting a kneading zone under pressure, and at least one "DF” sleeve forming a transport screw situated at the outlet end of the mixer.
- the apparatus may also include at least one sleeve having a grinding and / or homogenizing action such as a bilobed "BL" sleeve.
- an extruder-cooker mixer has many other advantages. Manufacturing can be done continuously and at a lower temperature. For example, a "blush" is conventionally produced at a temperature between 70 and 90 ° C; with an extruder-cooker mixer, it can be made at 50 ° C or less. Working at a lower temperature makes it possible to avoid degrading the raw materials, for example expanded powders, and allows to introduce into the makeup composition heat-sensitive cosmetic active agents.
- the method according to the present invention is flexible, since it is easy to vary the products introduced into the feed as well as the feed rates and, consequently, the formulations. It is also easy, depending on the makeup composition desired, to vary the physical parameters of the treatment such as the pressure, in particular by acting on the outlet section and the speed of rotation of the shafts, the shearing during treatment, in particular by the choice of multilobe sleeves and of the forms of threads, the kneading, in particular by the choice of the "CF" type sleeves, and the temperature by regulation of the thermal sleeves in line with the different zones of the mixer.
- the outer casing of the mixer has been designated by 1 and by 2 a , 2 b the axes of the two parallel shafts which are arranged there.
- the two shafts On the axes 2 a , 2 b are threaded adjacent sleeves, the two shafts being equipped with the same sleeves on the same section of the length to cooperate mechanically with each other during the rotation.
- the formulation is as follows (weights given in g): Fat phase: Polyethylene wax 4 Microcrystalline wax 1 Vaseline 7 Isostearyl neopentanoate 8.5 Paraffin oil 15 Octyl dodecanol 10 Pulverulent phase: Yellow iron oxide 0.5 Brown / yellow iron oxide 2.2 Titanium oxide 5 Calcium lacquer of red lithol B on rosin 0.3 Nylon powder 21 Microsphere having an envelope of vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methacrylate copolymer and containing isobutane ("Expancel" density 0.036) 8.5 Propyl hydroxybenzoate 0.2 Perfume 0.3
- the pulverulent phase is supplied at the head of the screw; the fatty phase is pumped and then supplied 100 mm from the head; the outlet openings have a total section of 314 mm2; the perfume is introduced by a peristaltic pump towards the end of the screw.
- the elements have the same radial dimensions as in Example 1 and the axes have the same center distance and the same speed of rotation; the outlet openings have a total section of 48 mm2; the feed rate is also approximately 5 kg / h.
- the formulation of the composition is as follows (weights given in g): Fat phase 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 12.2 Hydrogenated isoparaffin 19.7 Stabilized isopropyl lanolate 5.8 Propyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.3 Perfume 0.3 Micro-crystalline wax 10 Carnauba wax 6 Pulverulent phase Yellow iron oxide 2.1 Brown / yellow iron oxide 0.8 Black iron oxide 0.3 Titanium oxide 12 Nylon powder 12 17.2 Magnesium silicate 7 Microsphere with a copolymer shell (vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methacrylate) and containing isobutane ("Expancel" density 0.036) 6
- the fatty phase and the pulverulent phase are introduced at the top of the screw using a peristaltic pump and a weight metering device.
- the foundation obtained is golden brown, very soft to the touch and very even with the naked eye.
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Carbon And Carbon Compounds (AREA)
- Compositions Of Oxide Ceramics (AREA)
- Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)
- Pigments, Carbon Blacks, Or Wood Stains (AREA)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9215728A FR2699815B1 (fr) | 1992-12-24 | 1992-12-24 | Composition solide ou pâteuse de maquillage et procédé de préparation de cette composition. |
FR9215728 | 1992-12-24 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0605284A1 true EP0605284A1 (de) | 1994-07-06 |
EP0605284B1 EP0605284B1 (de) | 1997-01-08 |
Family
ID=9437116
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP93403096A Expired - Lifetime EP0605284B1 (de) | 1992-12-24 | 1993-12-20 | Feste oder pastöse Schminke und Herstellungsverfahren |
Country Status (10)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP0605284B1 (de) |
JP (1) | JP2614028B2 (de) |
AT (1) | ATE147257T1 (de) |
CA (1) | CA2112292A1 (de) |
DE (1) | DE69307288T2 (de) |
DK (1) | DK0605284T3 (de) |
ES (1) | ES2096255T3 (de) |
FR (1) | FR2699815B1 (de) |
GR (1) | GR3022240T3 (de) |
WO (1) | WO1994014402A1 (de) |
Cited By (17)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2715306A1 (fr) * | 1994-01-25 | 1995-07-28 | Oreal | Composition cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique sous forme de pâte souple et procédé de préparation de ladite composition. |
FR2722101A1 (fr) * | 1994-07-11 | 1996-01-12 | Oreal | Utilisation de particules creuses dans une composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique pulverulente et/ou contenant des matieres grasses |
FR2722102A1 (fr) * | 1994-07-11 | 1996-01-12 | Cird Galderma | Utilisation de particules creuses deformables dans une composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique, contenant des matieres grasses |
FR2727312A1 (fr) * | 1994-11-24 | 1996-05-31 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique sous forme de poudre compacte et procede de preparation |
EP0720845A1 (de) * | 1995-01-05 | 1996-07-10 | L'oreal | Kosmetische Zusammensetzung in Form von einer weichen Paste sowie Herstellungsverfahren |
EP0745370A1 (de) * | 1995-05-30 | 1996-12-04 | L'oreal | Zusammensetzung in Form eines wasserfreien Gels mit wachsfreier Fettphase, enthaltend organomodifizierten Ton, expandierte hohle thermoplastische Partikel und pyrogene Kieselsäure zur topischen Anwendung |
EP0745378A1 (de) * | 1995-05-29 | 1996-12-04 | L'oreal | Festes Produkt auf Basis von Stärke, das thermoplastische expandierte hohle Teilchen enthält sowie seiner Anwendung zur topischen Verwendung |
EP0745377A1 (de) * | 1995-05-29 | 1996-12-04 | L'oreal | Expandiertes festes Produkt auf Basis von natürlichen Stoffe zur Verwendung in Kosmetik |
FR2734829A1 (fr) * | 1995-05-29 | 1996-12-06 | Oreal | Composition solide expansee dont la matrice est constituee d'un reseau alveolaire amidonne et contenant des charges minerales ou organiques et ses utilisations en application topique |
EP0755668A1 (de) * | 1995-07-25 | 1997-01-29 | L'oreal | Extrudierte kosmetische Zusammensetzung in Form einer weichen Pasta und Herstellungsverfahren |
US6007830A (en) * | 1995-05-29 | 1999-12-28 | L'oreal | Expanded solid composition whose matrix comprises a starch-based cellular network and which contains expanded thermoplastic hollow particles and its uses in topical application |
US6461595B1 (en) | 1998-11-10 | 2002-10-08 | Industria E Comercio De Cosmeticos Natura Ltda. | Cosmetic composition in the powder form |
FR2848418A1 (fr) * | 2002-12-12 | 2004-06-18 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique non fluide pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de la peau, notamment du corps, des mains, du cou, du visage et des levres |
FR2865385A1 (fr) * | 2004-01-27 | 2005-07-29 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique de type poudre compacte a phase grasse solide |
FR2865386A1 (fr) * | 2004-01-27 | 2005-07-29 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique a poudre compacte |
EP2322135A1 (de) | 2009-11-13 | 2011-05-18 | L'Oréal | Kosmetische Zusammensetzung; die eine strukturgebende Substanz, eine absorbierende Substanz und ein Tensid zur Anwendung auf keratinhaltige Stoffe enthält |
FR3098106A1 (fr) * | 2019-07-03 | 2021-01-08 | Chanel Parfums Beaute | Procédé de fabrication d’une composition cosmétique solide mettant en œuvre un dispositif d’extrusion bi-vis |
Families Citing this family (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2722093B1 (fr) * | 1994-07-11 | 1996-08-23 | Oreal | Composition depilatoire solide contenant un agent structurant particulaire |
FR2722096A1 (fr) * | 1994-07-11 | 1996-01-12 | Oreal | Composition nettoyante solide pour la peau contenanr un agent structurant particulaire |
FR2722092B1 (fr) * | 1994-07-11 | 1996-08-14 | Oreal | Composition capillaire solide contenant un agent structurant particulaire |
Citations (8)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR1586848A (de) * | 1968-03-29 | 1970-03-06 | ||
GB2027341A (en) * | 1977-07-25 | 1980-02-20 | Revlon | Makeup foundations containing fumed silica |
EP0157680A1 (de) * | 1984-03-16 | 1985-10-09 | Clextral | Schneckenelement für eine Materialbehandlungsvorrichtung |
EP0195702A1 (de) * | 1985-03-04 | 1986-09-24 | Clextral | Verfahren und Vorrichtung zur Herstellung eines Nahrungsmittels mit weichem Gefüge |
EP0254612A1 (de) * | 1986-06-26 | 1988-01-27 | L'oreal | Aus synthetischem thermoplastischem Material gefertigte Mikrohohlkugeln enthaltende fliessfähige Puderzusammensetzungen |
JPH0347110A (ja) * | 1989-04-17 | 1991-02-28 | Kobayashi Kose Co Ltd | 化粧料 |
EP0447286A1 (de) * | 1990-02-28 | 1991-09-18 | L'oreal | Aus synthetischem thermoplastischem Material gefertigte Mikrohohlkugeln enthaltende Kompaktpuder |
EP0486394A1 (de) * | 1990-11-15 | 1992-05-20 | L'oreal | Mikrohohlkugeln enthaltende gegossene feste kosmetische Puder-Zubereitung und Verfahren zur Herstellung derselben |
Family Cites Families (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2018047110A (ja) * | 2016-09-23 | 2018-03-29 | 株式会社三共 | 遊技機 |
-
1992
- 1992-12-24 FR FR9215728A patent/FR2699815B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1993
- 1993-12-20 EP EP93403096A patent/EP0605284B1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1993-12-20 DE DE69307288T patent/DE69307288T2/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1993-12-20 ES ES93403096T patent/ES2096255T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1993-12-20 AT AT93403096T patent/ATE147257T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-12-20 DK DK93403096.6T patent/DK0605284T3/da active
- 1993-12-21 JP JP6514871A patent/JP2614028B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1993-12-21 WO PCT/FR1993/001274 patent/WO1994014402A1/fr unknown
- 1993-12-23 CA CA002112292A patent/CA2112292A1/fr not_active Abandoned
-
1997
- 1997-01-09 GR GR960403594T patent/GR3022240T3/el unknown
Patent Citations (8)
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---|---|---|---|---|
FR1586848A (de) * | 1968-03-29 | 1970-03-06 | ||
GB2027341A (en) * | 1977-07-25 | 1980-02-20 | Revlon | Makeup foundations containing fumed silica |
EP0157680A1 (de) * | 1984-03-16 | 1985-10-09 | Clextral | Schneckenelement für eine Materialbehandlungsvorrichtung |
EP0195702A1 (de) * | 1985-03-04 | 1986-09-24 | Clextral | Verfahren und Vorrichtung zur Herstellung eines Nahrungsmittels mit weichem Gefüge |
EP0254612A1 (de) * | 1986-06-26 | 1988-01-27 | L'oreal | Aus synthetischem thermoplastischem Material gefertigte Mikrohohlkugeln enthaltende fliessfähige Puderzusammensetzungen |
JPH0347110A (ja) * | 1989-04-17 | 1991-02-28 | Kobayashi Kose Co Ltd | 化粧料 |
EP0447286A1 (de) * | 1990-02-28 | 1991-09-18 | L'oreal | Aus synthetischem thermoplastischem Material gefertigte Mikrohohlkugeln enthaltende Kompaktpuder |
EP0486394A1 (de) * | 1990-11-15 | 1992-05-20 | L'oreal | Mikrohohlkugeln enthaltende gegossene feste kosmetische Puder-Zubereitung und Verfahren zur Herstellung derselben |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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PATENT ABSTRACTS OF JAPAN vol. 15, no. 189 (C - 831) 15 May 1991 (1991-05-15) * |
Cited By (41)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0667146A1 (de) * | 1994-01-25 | 1995-08-16 | L'oreal | Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzung in Form von einen weichen Pasta und Herstellungsverfahren |
FR2715306A1 (fr) * | 1994-01-25 | 1995-07-28 | Oreal | Composition cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique sous forme de pâte souple et procédé de préparation de ladite composition. |
US6132742A (en) * | 1994-01-25 | 2000-10-17 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition in the form of a soft paste |
US5660839A (en) * | 1994-07-11 | 1997-08-26 | L'oreal | Nongreasy/nonsticky fatty cosmetic/dermatological compositions |
FR2722101A1 (fr) * | 1994-07-11 | 1996-01-12 | Oreal | Utilisation de particules creuses dans une composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique pulverulente et/ou contenant des matieres grasses |
FR2722102A1 (fr) * | 1994-07-11 | 1996-01-12 | Cird Galderma | Utilisation de particules creuses deformables dans une composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique, contenant des matieres grasses |
EP0692242A1 (de) * | 1994-07-11 | 1996-01-17 | Centre International De Recherches Dermatologiques Galderma, ( Cird Galderma) | Verwendung verformbaren, hohlen Teilchen in einer kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zusammensetzung die fette Stoffe enthält |
US5939083A (en) * | 1994-07-11 | 1999-08-17 | Centre International De Recherches Dermatologiques Galderma | Nongreasy/nonsticky fatty cosmetic/dermatological compositions |
FR2727312A1 (fr) * | 1994-11-24 | 1996-05-31 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique sous forme de poudre compacte et procede de preparation |
US5958389A (en) * | 1994-11-24 | 1999-09-28 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder and process for preparing it |
EP0717979A3 (de) * | 1994-11-24 | 1999-06-16 | L'oreal | Kompaktpulver, kosmetische Zusammensetzung und Verfahren zur Herstellung |
US5814311A (en) * | 1994-11-24 | 1998-09-29 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder and process for preparing it |
US6344187B1 (en) | 1995-01-05 | 2002-02-05 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition in the form of a soft paste and process for preparation of same |
FR2729077A1 (fr) * | 1995-01-05 | 1996-07-12 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique sous forme d'une pate souple et procede de preparation |
EP0720845A1 (de) * | 1995-01-05 | 1996-07-10 | L'oreal | Kosmetische Zusammensetzung in Form von einer weichen Paste sowie Herstellungsverfahren |
US6007830A (en) * | 1995-05-29 | 1999-12-28 | L'oreal | Expanded solid composition whose matrix comprises a starch-based cellular network and which contains expanded thermoplastic hollow particles and its uses in topical application |
US5900241A (en) * | 1995-05-29 | 1999-05-04 | L'oreal | Use in cosmetics of an expanded solid composition which has a matrix containing an alveolar network made from a natural product or from a derivative of a natural product capable of being expanded |
FR2734713A1 (fr) * | 1995-05-29 | 1996-12-06 | Oreal | Utilisation en cosmetique d'une composition solide expansee ayant une matrice constituee d'un reseau alveolaire forme a partir d'un produit naturel ou d'un derive apte a s'expanser |
FR2734829A1 (fr) * | 1995-05-29 | 1996-12-06 | Oreal | Composition solide expansee dont la matrice est constituee d'un reseau alveolaire amidonne et contenant des charges minerales ou organiques et ses utilisations en application topique |
WO1996038128A1 (fr) * | 1995-05-29 | 1996-12-05 | L'oreal | Composition solide a base d'amidon contenant des particules creuses thermoplastiques expansees et son utilisation en application topique |
WO1996038127A1 (fr) * | 1995-05-29 | 1996-12-05 | L'oreal | Composition solide expansee formee a partir d'un produit naturel |
CN1096846C (zh) * | 1995-05-29 | 2002-12-25 | 莱雅公司 | 含膨化热塑性中空微粒的淀粉基固体组合物及其局部应用 |
FR2734830A1 (fr) * | 1995-05-29 | 1996-12-06 | Oreal | Composition solide expansee dont la matrice est constituee d'un reseau alveolaire amidonne et contenant des particules creuses thermoplastiques expansees et ses utilisations en application topique |
EP0745377A1 (de) * | 1995-05-29 | 1996-12-04 | L'oreal | Expandiertes festes Produkt auf Basis von natürlichen Stoffe zur Verwendung in Kosmetik |
US5925380A (en) * | 1995-05-29 | 1999-07-20 | L'oreal | Expanded solid composition whose matrix comprises a starch-based cellular network and which contains expanded thermoplastic hollow particles and its uses in topical application |
EP0745378A1 (de) * | 1995-05-29 | 1996-12-04 | L'oreal | Festes Produkt auf Basis von Stärke, das thermoplastische expandierte hohle Teilchen enthält sowie seiner Anwendung zur topischen Verwendung |
CN1083712C (zh) * | 1995-05-29 | 2002-05-01 | 莱雅公司 | 从天然产物制得的膨化固体组合物 |
EP0745370A1 (de) * | 1995-05-30 | 1996-12-04 | L'oreal | Zusammensetzung in Form eines wasserfreien Gels mit wachsfreier Fettphase, enthaltend organomodifizierten Ton, expandierte hohle thermoplastische Partikel und pyrogene Kieselsäure zur topischen Anwendung |
FR2734714A1 (fr) * | 1995-05-30 | 1996-12-06 | Oreal | Composition sous forme de gel anhydre a phase grasse sans cire, contenant une argile organomodifiee, des particules creuses thermoplastiques expansees et une silice pyrogenee |
EP0755668A1 (de) * | 1995-07-25 | 1997-01-29 | L'oreal | Extrudierte kosmetische Zusammensetzung in Form einer weichen Pasta und Herstellungsverfahren |
FR2737117A1 (fr) * | 1995-07-25 | 1997-01-31 | Oreal | Composition sous forme de pate souple obtenue par extrusion et procede de preparation |
US5874092A (en) * | 1995-07-25 | 1999-02-23 | L'oreal | Composition in the form of a smooth paste and process for its preparation |
US6036968A (en) * | 1995-07-25 | 2000-03-14 | L'oreal | Composition in the form of a smooth paste and process for its preparation |
US6461595B1 (en) | 1998-11-10 | 2002-10-08 | Industria E Comercio De Cosmeticos Natura Ltda. | Cosmetic composition in the powder form |
FR2848418A1 (fr) * | 2002-12-12 | 2004-06-18 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique non fluide pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de la peau, notamment du corps, des mains, du cou, du visage et des levres |
FR2865385A1 (fr) * | 2004-01-27 | 2005-07-29 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique de type poudre compacte a phase grasse solide |
FR2865386A1 (fr) * | 2004-01-27 | 2005-07-29 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique a poudre compacte |
EP1559394A1 (de) * | 2004-01-27 | 2005-08-03 | L'oreal | Kosmetische Kompaktpuderzusammensetzung enthaltend eine feste fette Phase |
EP1559393A1 (de) * | 2004-01-27 | 2005-08-03 | L'oreal | Kosmetische Kompaktpuderzusammenstzung |
EP2322135A1 (de) | 2009-11-13 | 2011-05-18 | L'Oréal | Kosmetische Zusammensetzung; die eine strukturgebende Substanz, eine absorbierende Substanz und ein Tensid zur Anwendung auf keratinhaltige Stoffe enthält |
FR3098106A1 (fr) * | 2019-07-03 | 2021-01-08 | Chanel Parfums Beaute | Procédé de fabrication d’une composition cosmétique solide mettant en œuvre un dispositif d’extrusion bi-vis |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
DE69307288T2 (de) | 1997-05-07 |
DE69307288D1 (de) | 1997-02-20 |
GR3022240T3 (en) | 1997-04-30 |
WO1994014402A1 (fr) | 1994-07-07 |
JP2614028B2 (ja) | 1997-05-28 |
EP0605284B1 (de) | 1997-01-08 |
FR2699815B1 (fr) | 1995-02-24 |
ES2096255T3 (es) | 1997-03-01 |
FR2699815A1 (fr) | 1994-07-01 |
JPH07503979A (ja) | 1995-04-27 |
DK0605284T3 (da) | 1997-01-27 |
CA2112292A1 (fr) | 1994-06-25 |
ATE147257T1 (de) | 1997-01-15 |
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