EP0604812B1 - Brassière having a support wire - Google Patents

Brassière having a support wire Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0604812B1
EP0604812B1 EP93120034A EP93120034A EP0604812B1 EP 0604812 B1 EP0604812 B1 EP 0604812B1 EP 93120034 A EP93120034 A EP 93120034A EP 93120034 A EP93120034 A EP 93120034A EP 0604812 B1 EP0604812 B1 EP 0604812B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
wire
strip
cup
seam
insert strip
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP93120034A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0604812A1 (en
Inventor
Fong Moon Tin Fanny Ho
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Triumph International AG
Original Assignee
Triumph International AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Triumph International AG filed Critical Triumph International AG
Publication of EP0604812A1 publication Critical patent/EP0604812A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0604812B1 publication Critical patent/EP0604812B1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/0007—Brassieres with stay means

Definitions

  • the invention has for its object to find a way to integrate the bag for inserting the strap in the area of the bust attachment seam in a strap bra of the type mentioned without complicating the manufacturing process so that the strap is not perceived as uncomfortable when worn becomes.
  • the underwire bra Due to the arrangement of the underwire insert strip between the side part and the cup, in the underwire bra according to the invention not only the cup with its lining or a cushion strip lies between the underwire located in the pocket of the underwire insert strip and the body surface, but it is also possible for the material of the - outside - side part so to lead over the outer region of the temple insert strip that the actual pocket for inserting the temple only appears as a narrow strip from the outside. Since it is covered from the outside by the material of the side part, the entire area of the fabric layers of the bust attachment seam lying below the side part can thereby be kept wider; this reduces the specific surface pressure of the temple on the body and achieves a smooth transition from the temple immediately following the bust attachment to the outer body regions.
  • the brassiere 1 consists of two side parts 2, which are brought together in a bust center seam 3 and are provided at the outer ends with parts for a back closure 4.
  • the bust cups 6 are sewn in, which are usually lined (8) below a transverse transverse seam 7 and unlined (9) above it.
  • carrier tapes are attached, which run to the rear areas of the side parts 2.
  • a once-folded temple insert strip 10 consisting of a first outer layer 10 'and a second inner layer 10''and a cushion band 11 folded in from both longitudinal edges are sewn with the interposition of the material of the basket 6 that the open edges point outwards and the material of the basket 6 protrudes by about 1 mm.
  • the connection of these parts takes place by means of a two-needle machine in a first seam 12 and a second seam 13 which runs directly next to the folded edge 14; the distance l 1 of the two seams 12 and 13 is advantageously 7.2 mm.
  • a velor strip can be arranged as an intermediate layer 15 between the temple insert strip 10 and the material of the basket 6.
  • the side part 2 is then sewn on in a second step. This is done in a - third - single-needle seam 16 in such a way that the material of the side part 2 is initially flush with its edge from the left is placed to the edges of the temple insert strip 10. The seam 16 runs somewhat within the first seam 12.
  • a third step (FIG. 4), the side part 2 is now folded over the - third - seam 16, so that a folded edge 17 is created.
  • the side part 2 which thus covers the entire outer region of the stirrup insert strip 10, is sewn to this and the other parts.
  • the double needle seam comprises a fourth seam 18 which is just next to the free outer edges of the parts and a fifth seam 19 which run just inside the folded edge 17.
  • the bracket 21 is then inserted into the pocket 20 thus formed (FIG. 5).
  • Fig. 5 which shows the final state of the bust attachment seam 5
  • the bracket 21 is arranged eccentrically with respect to the bust attachment seam 5 towards the cup 6, i.e. towards the breast attachment and is padded towards the body side by several layers of fabric, while those connected by seams Material layers to the outside facing away from the chest cause a gentle transfer of the molding pressure exerted by the bracket 21 to the body.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Bedding Items (AREA)

Abstract

In a brassière consisting of two side parts and breast cups, a pocket (20) is formed from a strip (10) of textile material along the breast cup attachment seam for introducing a support wire (21). The wire insert strip (10) consists of a singly folded strip which is arranged in each case between a cup (6) and the associated side part (2) in such a way that the fold edge (14) faces the cup (6), and the side part (2) - partially covering the wire insert strip (10) - is sewn to the latter and the cup (6) in such a way that the pocket (20) for introducing the support wire (21) is formed in the region of the wire insert strip (10) facing the fold edge (14). Owing to the eccentric position of the wire (21) relative to the seam arrangement, not only is the majority of the wire insert strip (10) concealed by the material of the side part (2), such that the entire region of the material layers of the breast cup attachment seam located below it can be designed to be wider, as a result of which the specific surface pressure of the wire onto the body is reduced, but it is also achieved that the actual pocket for introducing the wire (21) appears only as a narrow strip from the outside. <IMAGE>

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft einen Büstenhalter mit einem Versteifungsbügel gemäß dem Oberbegriff des Patentanspruchs 1.The invention relates to a brassiere with a stiffening strap according to the preamble of patent claim 1.

Büstenhalter mit Versteifungsbügeln entlang der Büstenansatznaht, sogennante Bügel-BH, sind bekannt. üblicherweise werden solche Büstenhalter in der Weise hergestellt, daß die Ränder von Körbchen und Seitenteil eingefaltet übereinander gelegt und in einem Nähvorgang mit einer Doppelnadelnaht ein die Tasche zum Einführen des Bügels bildender Bügeleinlagestreifen aufgenäht wird. Obwohl der den Bügel abpolsternde Bügeleinlagestreifen an der dem Körper zugewandten Innenseite des Büstenhalters liegt, wird die Büstenansatznaht durch die in verhältnismäßig großem Abstand voneinander liegenden Nähte der Doppelnadelnaht stark betont. Da die Tasche für den Bügel an der Innenseite des Büstenhalters angeordnet ist, besteht die Gefahr, daß der aus sprungelastischem, für den Körper aber als hart empfundenem Material, wie z.B. Metall, Kunststoff oder dergleichen bestehende Bügel sich beim Tragen unangenehm bemerkbar macht.Brassieres with stiffening straps along the bust attachment seam, so-called underwire bra, are known. Usually, such bras are produced in such a way that the edges of the cup and the side part are folded over one another and in a sewing process with a double needle seam, a pocket insert for inserting the strap forming strap insert strips is sewn on. Although the underwire insert strip padding the underwire lies on the inside of the bra facing the body, the underwire seam is strongly emphasized by the stitching of the double needle seam which is at a relatively large distance from one another. Since the pocket for the underwire is arranged on the inside of the brassiere, there is a risk that the material is made of elastic material that is perceived as hard by the body, e.g. Metal, plastic or the like existing bracket makes itself unpleasantly noticeable when worn.

Der Erfindung liegt die Aufgabe zugrunde, eine Möglichkeit zu finden, um bei einem Bügel-BH der eingangs angegebenen Art ohne Komplizierung des Herstellungsvorgangs die Tasche für das Einführen des Bügels im Bereich der Büstenansatznaht so zu integrieren, daß der Bügel beim Tragen nicht als unangenehm empfunden wird.The invention has for its object to find a way to integrate the bag for inserting the strap in the area of the bust attachment seam in a strap bra of the type mentioned without complicating the manufacturing process so that the strap is not perceived as uncomfortable when worn becomes.

Gemäß der Erfindung wird diese Aufgabe durch einen Büstenhalter mit den im kennzeichnenden Teil des Patentanspruchs 1 angegebenen Merkmalen gelöst.According to the invention, this object is achieved by a brassiere with the features specified in the characterizing part of patent claim 1.

Vorteilhafte Weiterbildungen ergeben sich aus den Unteransprüchen.Advantageous further developments result from the subclaims.

Durch die Anordnung des Bügeleinlagestreifens zwischen dem Seitenteil und dem Körbchen liegt bei dem erfindungsgemäßen Bügel-BH nicht nur das Körbchen mit seinem Futter bzw. einem Polsterstreifen zwischen dem in der Tasche des Bügeleinlagestreifens befindlichen Bügel und der Körperoberflache, sondern ist es auch möglich, das Material des - außen liegenden - Seitenteils so über den Außenbereich des Bügeleinlagestreifens zu führen, daß die eigentliche Tasche zum Einführen des Bügels nur mehr als schmaler Streifen von außen her in Erscheinung tritt. Da von außen durch das Material des Seitenteils verdeckt, kann hierdurch der gesamte unterhalb des Seitenteils liegende Bereich der Stofflagen der Büstenansatznaht breiter gehalten werden; dadurch wird der spezifische Flächendruck des Bügels auf den Körper vermindert und ein sanfter Übergang von dem dem Büstenansatz unmittelbar folgenden Bügel zu den außen liegenden Körperbereichen erzielt.Due to the arrangement of the underwire insert strip between the side part and the cup, in the underwire bra according to the invention not only the cup with its lining or a cushion strip lies between the underwire located in the pocket of the underwire insert strip and the body surface, but it is also possible for the material of the - outside - side part so to lead over the outer region of the temple insert strip that the actual pocket for inserting the temple only appears as a narrow strip from the outside. Since it is covered from the outside by the material of the side part, the entire area of the fabric layers of the bust attachment seam lying below the side part can thereby be kept wider; this reduces the specific surface pressure of the temple on the body and achieves a smooth transition from the temple immediately following the bust attachment to the outer body regions.

Die Erfindung wird nachstehend anhand eines in der Zeichnung dargestellten Ausführungsbeispiels näher erläutert. Es zeigt

Fig. 1
eine teilweise Ansicht eines erfindungsgemäßen ausgebildeten Bügel-BH und die
Fig. 2 bis 5
in vergrößerter schematischer Darstellung der Bügelansatznaht aufeinanderfolgende Phasen der Herstellung entlang der Linie V-V in Fig. 1.
The invention is explained below with reference to an embodiment shown in the drawing. It shows
Fig. 1
a partial view of a formed underwire bra according to the invention and the
2 to 5
in an enlarged schematic representation of the stirrup approach successive phases of production along the line VV in Fig. 1st

Der erfindungsgemäße Büstenhalter 1 besteht aus zwei Seitenteilen 2, die in einer Büstenmittelnaht 3 zusammengeführt und an den äußeren Enden mit Teilen für einen Rückenverschluß 4 versehen sind. Entlang der Büstenansatznaht 5 sind die Büstenkörbchen 6 eingenäht, die üblicherweise unterhalb einer Büstenquernaht 7 gefüttert (8) und oberhalb derselben ungefüttert (9) sind. An dem oberen Rand der Körbchen 6 sind Trägerbänder angesetzt, die zu den rückwärtigen Bereichen der Seitenteile 2 verlaufen.The brassiere 1 according to the invention consists of two side parts 2, which are brought together in a bust center seam 3 and are provided at the outer ends with parts for a back closure 4. Along the Bust attachment seam 5, the bust cups 6 are sewn in, which are usually lined (8) below a transverse transverse seam 7 and unlined (9) above it. At the upper edge of the cups 6 carrier tapes are attached, which run to the rear areas of the side parts 2.

Die Verbindung der Büstenkörbchen 6 mit den Seitenteilen 2 in der Büstenansatznaht 5 und die Anordnung des Bügels sind in den Fig. 2 bis 5 in Arbeitsphasen näher dargestellt, wobei Fig. 5 den Endzustand in einem Schnitt entlang der Linie V-V in Fig. 1 darstellt.The connection of the bust cups 6 to the side parts 2 in the bust attachment seam 5 and the arrangement of the bracket are shown in more detail in FIGS. 2 to 5 in working phases, FIG. 5 showing the final state in a section along the line V-V in FIG. 1.

Wie Fig. 2 zeigt, werden in einem ersten Schritt ein aus einer ersten äußeren Lage 10' und einer zweiten inneren Lage 10'' bestehender einmal gefalteter Bügeleinlagestreifen 10 und ein von beiden Längsrändern her eingefaltetes Polsterband 11 unter Zwischenlage des Materials des Körbchens 6 so vernäht, daß die offenen Ränder nach außen zeigen und das Material des Körbchens 6 um etwa 1 mm übersteht. Die Verbindung dieser Teile erfolgt mittels einer Zweinadelmaschine in einer ersten Naht 12 und einer zweiten Naht 13, die unmittelbar neben der Faltkante 14 verläuft; der Abstand l1 der beiden Nähte 12 und 13 beträgt zweckmäßig 7,2 mm.As shown in FIG. 2, in a first step, a once-folded temple insert strip 10 consisting of a first outer layer 10 'and a second inner layer 10''and a cushion band 11 folded in from both longitudinal edges are sewn with the interposition of the material of the basket 6 that the open edges point outwards and the material of the basket 6 protrudes by about 1 mm. The connection of these parts takes place by means of a two-needle machine in a first seam 12 and a second seam 13 which runs directly next to the folded edge 14; the distance l 1 of the two seams 12 and 13 is advantageously 7.2 mm.

Ist die Innenseite des Körbchens 6 gefüttert, so ist das Material des Körbchens 6 durch dieses Futter gedoppelt; in dem nicht gefütterten Bereich kann zwischen dem Bügeleinlagestreifen 10 und dem Material des Körbchens 6 noch ein Veloursstreifen als Zwischenlage 15 angeordnet sein.If the inside of the basket 6 is lined, the material of the basket 6 is doubled by this lining; in the non-lined area, a velor strip can be arranged as an intermediate layer 15 between the temple insert strip 10 and the material of the basket 6.

Wie in Fig. 3 erkennbar, wird sodann in einem zweiten Schritt das Seitenteil 2 aufgenäht. Dies erfolgt in einer - dritten - Einnadelnaht 16, in der Weise, daß das Material des Seitenteils 2 zunächst von links mit seinem Rand bündig zu den Rändern des Bügeleinlagestreifens 10 gelegt wird. Die Naht 16 verläuft etwas innerhalb der ersten Naht 12.As can be seen in FIG. 3, the side part 2 is then sewn on in a second step. This is done in a - third - single-needle seam 16 in such a way that the material of the side part 2 is initially flush with its edge from the left is placed to the edges of the temple insert strip 10. The seam 16 runs somewhat within the first seam 12.

In einem dritten Schritt (Fig. 4) wird nun das Seitenteil 2 um die - dritte - Naht 16 herum umgeschlagen, so daß eine Faltkante 17 entsteht. Mit einer weiteren Doppelnadelnaht wird das Seitenteil 2, das so den ganzen äußeren Bereich des Bügeleinlagestreifens 10 überdeckt, mit diesem und den übrigen Teilen vernäht. Die Doppelnadelnaht umfaßt eine vierte Naht 18, die knapp neben den freien Außenkanten der Teile und eine fünfte Naht 19, die knapp innerhalb der Faltkante 17 verlaufen. In die so gebildete Tasche 20 wird dann der Bügel 21 eingeschoben (Fig. 5).In a third step (FIG. 4), the side part 2 is now folded over the - third - seam 16, so that a folded edge 17 is created. With a further double needle seam, the side part 2, which thus covers the entire outer region of the stirrup insert strip 10, is sewn to this and the other parts. The double needle seam comprises a fourth seam 18 which is just next to the free outer edges of the parts and a fifth seam 19 which run just inside the folded edge 17. The bracket 21 is then inserted into the pocket 20 thus formed (FIG. 5).

Aus Fig. 5, die den Endzustand der Büstenansatznaht 5 zeigt, wird deutlich, daß der Bügel 21 bezüglich der Büstenansatznaht 5 exzentrisch zum Körbchen 6 hin, also zum Brustansatz hin angeordnet und zur Körperseite hin durch mehrere Stofflagen abgepolstert ist, während die durch Nähte verbundenen Materiallagen zu der der Brust abgewandten Außenseite hin eine sanfte Überleitung des durch den Bügel 21 ausgeübten Formungsdruck auf den Körper bewirken.From Fig. 5, which shows the final state of the bust attachment seam 5, it is clear that the bracket 21 is arranged eccentrically with respect to the bust attachment seam 5 towards the cup 6, i.e. towards the breast attachment and is padded towards the body side by several layers of fabric, while those connected by seams Material layers to the outside facing away from the chest cause a gentle transfer of the molding pressure exerted by the bracket 21 to the body.

Claims (4)

  1. A brassiere comprising two side parts (2), which are joined together at a central bust seam (3) and which have a back fastening (4), and cups (6) attached along the bust attachment seam (5), wherein along the bust attachment seam a pocket is formed from a strip of textile material for the insertion of a support wire (21), characterised in that the wire-insert strip (10) is formed from a strip folded once about a line extending in its longitudinal direction and is respectively so arranged between a cup (6) and the associated side part (2) that the fold edge (14) faces the cup (6) and the side part (2), which partly covers the wire-insert strip (10), is so stitched at a seam (16) to the latter and to the cup (6) that the pocket (20) for the insertion of the support wire (21) is formed in the region of the wire-insert strip (10) nearest the fold edge (14).
  2. A brassiere according to Claim 1, characterised in that the wire-insert strip (10) comprises two layers (10', 10'') of textile material.
  3. A brassiere according to Claim 1 or 2, characterised in that an intermediate layer (15) is disposed between the wire-insert strip (10) and the cup (6) at least in the unlined portion of the cup.
  4. A brassiere according to Claims 1 to 3, characterised in that a padded strip (11) is disposed on the side of the cup (6) nearest the body.
EP93120034A 1992-12-28 1993-12-11 Brassière having a support wire Expired - Lifetime EP0604812B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE9217736U 1992-12-28
DE9217736U DE9217736U1 (en) 1992-12-28 1992-12-28 Bra with a stiffening wire

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0604812A1 EP0604812A1 (en) 1994-07-06
EP0604812B1 true EP0604812B1 (en) 1997-07-09

Family

ID=6887607

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP93120034A Expired - Lifetime EP0604812B1 (en) 1992-12-28 1993-12-11 Brassière having a support wire

Country Status (5)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0604812B1 (en)
AT (1) ATE155014T1 (en)
DE (1) DE9217736U1 (en)
ES (1) ES2105058T3 (en)
HK (1) HK1012217A1 (en)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8113908B1 (en) 2000-07-20 2012-02-14 Dba Lux 1 Sarl Stiffened brassiere

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE4442344C1 (en) * 1994-11-29 1995-11-23 Triumph International Ag Brassiere wiring
GB2299399A (en) * 1995-03-25 1996-10-02 Rolls Royce Plc Variable geometry air-fuel injector
DE29810765U1 (en) * 1998-06-16 1999-10-28 Triumph International AG, 80335 München Brassieres with stiffening straps
JP6331564B2 (en) * 2014-03-27 2018-05-30 株式会社ワコール Clothing with cup

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3704713A (en) * 1971-02-01 1972-12-05 Munsingwear Inc Concealed wire structure for an outer garment
US3702614A (en) * 1971-08-02 1972-11-14 Maid Mar Ind Inc Brassiere and supporting frames thereof
US4203449A (en) * 1978-05-01 1980-05-20 The Strouse, Adler Company Stretchable underwire casing for breast pockets

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8113908B1 (en) 2000-07-20 2012-02-14 Dba Lux 1 Sarl Stiffened brassiere

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE9217736U1 (en) 1993-07-22
EP0604812A1 (en) 1994-07-06
ATE155014T1 (en) 1997-07-15
HK1012217A1 (en) 1999-07-30
ES2105058T3 (en) 1997-10-16

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