EP0567481A1

EP0567481A1 - Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation

Info

Publication number: EP0567481A1
Application number: EP92902119A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Bernd Komp; Christiane Gigenack; Magdalene Hubbuch
Original assignee: Betrix Cosmetic GmbH and Co
Current assignee: Betrix Cosmetic GmbH and Co
Priority date: 1991-01-16
Filing date: 1992-01-15
Publication date: 1993-11-03
Also published as: CA2099879A1; WO1992012702A1; DE4101122A1; JPH06504282A

Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte à un produit cosmétique ou pharmaceutique contenant au moins un flavolignan et du tocophérol et/ou un ester de ces substances. Le produit selon l'invention fait preuve d'un effet protecteur sur les cellules et permet de retarder le processus de vieillissement de la peau.The present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical product containing at least one flavolignan and tocopherol and / or an ester of these substances. The product according to the invention shows a protective effect on the cells and makes it possible to delay the aging process of the skin.

Description

COSMETIC OR PHARMACEUTICAL AGENT

The invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical agent / which contains a flavolignan and tocopherol or an ester thereof.

Oxidative and reductive processes in the cellular area play a central role in metabolism. This results in highly reactive / short-lived metabolic intermediates / namely free radicals. Oxygen adicals / such as the super oxide radical anion / the hydroperoxide radical and the hydroxyl radical / play a special role here.

The occurrence of free radicals can result in cytotoxicity changes in enzymes / attack on nucleic acids / lipid peroxidation and loss of the integrity of cellular membranes. For example, certain illnesses and rapid aging are associated with this.

Free radicals can generally be generated in the cell by a variety of environmental reactions or substances. One possibility for this is photolysis by UV radiation. It is considered certain that UV radiation, which can penetrate into the upper cell layers, is involved in the development of malignant skin carcinomas and the aging of the skin.

In order to suppress the formation of free radicals, reducing radical scavengers (antioxidants) are used which include, for example, vitamins C and E and silymarin. For example, EP-A-180 505 describes a cosmetic agent in two parts for delaying the aging of the skin. The one, hydrophilic part comprises an active ingredient, which can be, inter alia, silymarin. The other, hydrophobic part of the composition comprises, for example, unsaponifiable soy constituents, unsaponifiable avocado constituents, nut oil, etc.

FR-A-2 597 337 also describes a cosmetic agent for delaying the aging of the skin. This too

Agent is in two parts, one part containing numerous components, including silymarin. The oil-soluble part also contains numerous constituents, of course tocopherols are also mentioned. Because the agent is made up in two parts, more of the active ingredient should be able to be dissolved in the oily and aqueous phase.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that a combination of a flavolignan compound and tocopherol or an ester thereof act synergistically as radical scavengers and can therefore be used in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical agent which is particularly useful for preventing aging of the skin.

The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition which contains at least one flavolignan and tocopherol and / or an ester thereof.

The flavolignans used in the agent according to the invention are, in particular, silymarin or derivatives thereof. Silymarin is extracted from the silver thistle Silibu marianum. It is a mixture of several flavolignans, namely silibin, silibinin, silidianin and silichristin. The preparation and recovery of the silymarin extract and the individual compounds are described, for example, in DE-A-19 23 082, DE-A-29 14 330, DE-A-35 37 656 and drug research. 24, No. 4, 466-471 (1974).

Useful silymarin derivatives are in particular salts and Addition compounds (complex compounds) of silymarin, such as the salts of silymarin with monoaminopolyhydroxy alcohols, for example 1-methylaminoglucose, described in DE-A-23 02 593; Silibinin hemisuccinate and silymarin-cyclodextri complexes, as described in EP-A-90 118 964. Reference is made in full to the content of the applications mentioned.

Both the silymarin mixture and one or more of the individual compounds can be used in the agents according to the invention. The flavolignans, and in particular silymarin, can also be used in the form of addition salts.

The tocopherols used according to the invention are compounds with a vitamin E character. These are α-, β-γ- and δ-tocopherol, with α-tocopherol being preferred. The use of the esters of tocopherol with an aliphatic carboxylic acid having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular acetic acid, is particularly preferred.

According to a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention also contain a protein hydrolyzate. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzate is generally in the range of 300-50,000, in particular 500-25,000, Dalto. The protein hydrolyzates can originate from vegetable or animal protein, e.g. of wheat or soy protein, collagen, etc. Suitable protein hydrolyzates are commercially available, e.g. Gluadin AGP (Henkel), obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of wheat protein, pH 4.5-5.0 (10% solution), molecular weight 2000-25000, or Nutrilan L (Henkel), obtained by acid Hydrolysis of collagen, pH 5.5 - 6.5, molecular weight 500 - 2000.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain at least one amino acid, - especially methionine or cysteine. An amino acid mixture is expediently used, for example the commercially available product ASM-Cl (from Degussa) with the following amino

Lys 2.50%

Orn 7.94%

Phe 1.04%

Per 1.02%

Ser 19.48%

Thr 5.16%

Trp 1.01%

Tyr 1.43% Val 3.62%.

or an amino acid mixture of the following composition:

The quantitative ratio of flavolignan to tocopherol or an ester thereof can vary within a wide range. In general, the amount by weight of tocopherol or an ester thereof to flavolignan is in the range from 5: 1 to 20: 1, in particular 10: 1 to 20: 1. If a protein hydrolyzate or an amino acid (mixture) is present in the composition, the weight ratio of tocopherol or an ester thereof to protein hydrolyzate or amino acid (mixture) is generally 2: 1 to 15: 1, in particular 3: 1 to 10 :1.

The agents according to the invention can contain conventional additives. Particularly worth mentioning here are skin care products, such as cationic quaternary polymers; Moisturizing agents such as glycerol, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, inositol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and the salts thereof; artificial tanning agents, such as dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glyceraldehyde, α-dialdehydes, such as 2,3-dihydroxysuccinaldehyde, optionally together with other dyes for the skin; Sunscreen; Antiperspirants; Deodorants; astringent agents; refreshing and strengthening products; Extracts from animal and vegetable tissues; Perfume waters; Dyes; unsaturated higher fatty acids, vitamins, hormones, antibiotics etc.

The agents according to the invention can be used in particular in a

appropriate topical administration form. For this purpose it is generally used in the form of a cream, solution, gel or emulsion. In addition to the ingredients mentioned above, the agents can also contain customary adjuvants for this, for example preservatives, sequestering agents, thickeners, emulsifiers, etc.

If the agent is in the form of a cream, the carrier can be formulated on the basis of soaps or fatty alcohols in the presence of emulsifiers. The soaps can originate from natural or synthetic C, -, - C, "- fatty acids (e.g. lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid) in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight as well as alkalizing agents (such as sodium hydroxide / potassium hydroxide / ammonia / Mono ethanolamine, diethanola in, triethanolamine).

The creams can also contain adjuvants such as fatty amides and fatty alcohols. Useful fatty amides are, in particular, mono- or diethanolamides of coconut fatty acids, lauric acid or oleic acid in an amount of up to 10% by weight / based on the total weight of the agent. Usable fatty alcohols are in particular oleyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol in an amount of up to 10% by weight / based on the total weight of the agent.

The creams can also be based on natural or synthetic C. ₂ -C. _g -alcohols can be formulated together with emulsifiers. Usable fatty alcohols are in particular coconut oil alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / hydroxystearyl alcohol in an amount of 5 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

Usable emulsifiers are:

Oxethylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, for example polyethoxylated oleyl alcohol, oxyethylenated cetyl alcohol, oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol, oxyethylenated oleocetyl alcohol, oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol, polyglycerated oleyl alcohol, polyoxethylenated C ₈ -C. - Fatty alcohols etc. These non-ionic emulsifiers are generally present in an amount of 5 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

Other emulsifiers which can be used are esters of higher fatty acids, such as stearic acid with polyalcohols, such as glycerol, sorbitol _/ propylene glycol / polyethylene glycols etc., and, if appropriate, oxyethylated alkyl sulfates, such as triethanolamine, lauryl sulfate / oxyethylated sodium lauryl ether sulfate and oxyethylated monoethanolamine lauryl ether sulfate.

If the agents according to the invention are in the form of emulsions, these can be formulated on the basis of non-ionic or anionic surfactants. Nonionic emulsions generally include oils and / or waxes _/ fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty alcohols / such as, for example, stearyl alcohol or polyethoxylated cetylstearyl alcohol. Anionic emulsions are generally formulated from soaps.

Suitable solvents for solutions and gels are water or water-alcohol mixtures, e.g. Water / ethanol or water / isopropanol. Suitable gelling agents are in particular

Cellulose derivatives, such as carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, and polyacrylic acids (e.g. carbopole).

The agents have cell protective effectiveness of an _d are therefore in a position to the aging process of

Effectively delay skin. This could be demonstrated by in vitro as well as in vivo investigations.

The in vitro investigation was carried out on human keratin cytocytes, which were used with UV-A rays to induce over free radical mediated cell damage were irradiated. Isolated keratinocytes from the foreskin of a two-month child were used for this purpose. The keratinocytes were cultivated in MCDB 153 (Irvine®) plus ethanolamine, phosphoethanolamine, cortisone, insulin, calcium (0.1 mM). The pituitary extract concentration was 0.5% (70 μg / ml).

The cells are kept in Corning culture vessels with a diameter of 100 mm in a humid atmosphere with 5% CO ₂ at 37 ° C. The keratinocytes became steady every 8 days

5 cell density inoculated: 1 x 10 cells / 10 ml culture medium.

The growth rate was determined colorimetrically / based on the metabolic activity of the cells using a tetrazolium salt (MTT test, Mosmann 1983). A blue color developed, the intensity of which is proportional to the cell density. The absorption at 570 nm was determined spectrophotometrically.

The following test substances and solutions were used:

Stock solutions

<, -Tocopherol 150 mg / ml in ethanol 96% (A) Cetiol HE 0.1 μl / ml in Hanks solution - without phenol red - (B)

Silibinin hemisuccinate 2 mg / ml in Hanks' solution - without phenol red - (C)

Gluadin 0.5 mg / ml in Hanks solution - without

Phenol red - (D)

The following test solutions were prepared from these stock solutions: Total mixture (all active ingredients)

A 20 ul B 100 ul

C 100 ul

D 1 ml

Culture solution MCDB 153 or electrolyte solution Hanks without phenol red ad 10 ml.

Tocopherol acetate solution

A 20 ml B 100 ml

Culture solution MCDB 153 or electrolyte solution Hanks without

Phenol ^'ad 10 ml.

Silibinin hemisuccinate solution

C 100 ul

Culture solution MCDB 153 or electrolyte solution Hanks without phenol red ad 10 ml

control

20 ul ethanol 98% B 100 ul D 1 ml

Culture solution MCDB 153 or electrolyte solution Hanks without

Phenol red to 10 ml These test solutions are used undiluted or diluted to 1/2, 1/10 and 1/20.

100 ul of these solutions are added to 100 ul cell culture medium. This results in the following test concentrations:

1) Tocopherol acetate silibin hemisuccinate gluadin

2) Tocopherol acetate silibin hemisuccinate gluadin

3) Tocopherol acetate silibin hemisuccinate gluadin

4) Tocopherol acetate silibin hemisuccinate gluadin

Each concentration was tested on five cell cultures.

Radiation

Free radicals were generated by UV-A radiation using a Vilber Lourmat mercury vapor lamp

(T 40 M). The maximum of the emission spectrum was at 365 nm. 2 An intensity of 6 joules / cm leads to an approx. 50%

Toxicity to keratinocytes 24 h after radiation. The keratinocytes were irradiated in Hanks solution without phenol red. After the irradiation, the electrolyte solution was removed and the cells were left in their complete culture medium for 24 h. Cellular viability was then determined colorimetrically using MTT.

10

Add the test solutions

1. before irradiation

15 The test solutions diluted with Hanks solution without phenol red are added immediately before the irradiation and remain in contact with the keratinocytes for about 45 minutes.

20 2. after radiation

The test solutions diluted with complete culture medium (MCDB 153) are added directly after the irradiation and remain in contact with the keratinocytes for 24 hours.

control

The cultures without active ingredient solution are covered with aluminum foil during the irradiation.

Determination of the protective effect

The radiation leads to an approximately 50% reduced cell

35 activity of keratinocytes = toxicity. As a measure of one Protective action against free radicals can thus be assessed as an increased cell yield of the treated cultures compared to untreated controls.

Example:

Treated toxicity = 50% untreated toxicity ^• = 80% increase in cell yield = 30%

The results are shown in Fig. 1.

Both solvent (control) + gluadin as well

Tocopherol acetate show no increased cell yield and therefore no protective effect. Only silibin hemisuccinate causes a slight increase in cell yield. The agent according to the invention (total mixture), on the other hand, increases the cell yield significantly in a dose-dependent manner. This protective effect is statistically significant compared to the individual substances (P ^ 0.05) and clearly superadditive. The effect of the agent can therefore be described as synergistic. The following examples illustrate the invention without restricting it.

Example 1: Cream

%

PEG-40 stearate, sorbitan stearate 1.80 _3/60

Stearic _0/40

Cetearyl _2/00

Lanolin _2/00

Caprylic / Capric / Stearic / Triglyceride 4.00 cetearyl _4/00

Dimethicone 1.00 dem. Water to _100/00

Methylparaben _0/15

Phenoxyethanol _0/45 propylene glycol 0.90

PEG-400 4.00 hydrolyzed wheat protein _0/50

Tocopherol acetate 3.00

Chlorhexidindigluconat _0/04 silymarin _0/20

Example 2 _: Cream

Glycerol monostearate 3.60

Na cetearyl sulfate 0.80

Cetearyl alcohol 3.60

Propylene glycol stearate 1.00

Octyl dodecyl alcoholate 4.00

Cetearyl isononanoate 6.00

Octyldodecanol 6.00

Mineral oil 2.00

Dimethicone 1.00 Phenoxyethanol and methylparaben 1.00 and ethylparaben and butylparaben demin. Water ad 100.00

Silymarin 0.20

PEG-400 4.00

Tocopherol acetate 3.00

Wheat protein hydrolyzate (Gluadin AGP) 0/50

Example 3: 2-phase product

Jojoba oil 4.00

Tocopherol acetate 2.00

Octyl methoxycinnamate 3.00

Tocopherol 0.01

Mineral oil 16.00 demin. Water ad 100.00

Hyaluronic acid 0.08

Pyrrolidone carboxylate Na 0.25

Sodium acetate 0.25

Methyl paraben 0.18

Phenoxyethanol 0.54

Propylene glycol 1.08

Magnesium sulfate 1.00

Silymarin 0.20

Claims

P A T E N T A N S P R Ü C H E

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing at least one flavolignan and tocopherol and / or an ester thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, d a d u r c h g e k e n n z e i c h n t that the flavolignan is silymarin or a derivative thereof, in particular silibinin, silibinin hemisuccinate, the salts of silymarin with monoaminopolyhydroxy alcohols and silymarin-cyclodextrin complexes.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the tocopherol is α-tocopherol or α-tocopherol acetate.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of tocopherol or an ester thereof to flavolignan is in the range from 5: 1 to 20: 1, in particular 10: 1 to 20: 1.

5. Agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains a protein hydrolyzate and / or at least one amino acid.

Agent according to Claim 5, characterized in that the weight ratio of tocopherol to protein hydrolysa or amino acid (s) is in the range from 2: 1 to 15: 1, in particular 3: 1 to 10: 1.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is present as a cream, solution, gel or emulsion.

8. Agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises customary cosmetic or pharmaceutical carriers, auxiliaries and / or adjuvants.

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