EP0481151A1 - Chock for mountaineering or speleology - Google Patents

Chock for mountaineering or speleology Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0481151A1
EP0481151A1 EP90810785A EP90810785A EP0481151A1 EP 0481151 A1 EP0481151 A1 EP 0481151A1 EP 90810785 A EP90810785 A EP 90810785A EP 90810785 A EP90810785 A EP 90810785A EP 0481151 A1 EP0481151 A1 EP 0481151A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
jaws
cylinder
chock
spring
jammer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP90810785A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Gilbert Perrin
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to EP90810785A priority Critical patent/EP0481151A1/en
Publication of EP0481151A1 publication Critical patent/EP0481151A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons
    • A63B29/024—Climbing chocks

Definitions

  • the subject of the invention is a jammer, in particular for mountaineering or speleology.
  • the jammer is a metal utensil used for belaying on a rock wall. Playing the role of piton, the jammer is placed in a crack and is blocked under the effect of traction. It provides effective belaying and, unlike the piton, does not degrade the rock.
  • the first jammers were made up of a wedge-shaped piece in which a cable was fixed. Although simple in construction, they carried a certain weight. This is why very quickly there appeared the problem of recovering the jammer after use. In addition, these first jammers are inert, that is to say that once placed in a crack, they only hold in place as far as a traction is exerted on them or else it is necessary to take the risk of wedge them very hard and then no longer be able to remove them.
  • the invention aims to present a simple construction jammer, therefore inexpensive, easy to recover and having all the safety guarantees.
  • a jammer according to the invention comprises a flexible element 5, 6 which in the embodiment shown is a cable, for example a car brake cable.
  • the car brake cable is a particularly suitable material because it is resistant while not being too flexible.
  • the cable 5, 6 defines a loop 19 in which it is possible to hang a carabiner or a cord; in order to avoid wear, the cable in the loop area has a protective sheath 12.
  • the cable 5, 6 is held in a U shape by bars 7, 8, 13 and the two ends of the branches 5, 6 of the U are anchored in the movable element 1 which in the embodiment shown is a circular aluminum cylinder.
  • the cylinder 1 is in two jaws 2 and 3 which are also made of aluminum.
  • the jaw 3 has a stud which is placed in a recess 18 provided on the jaw 2.
  • An axis 4 passes through a hole in the jaw 2 and into a hole in the jaw 3. This means that the two jaws are articulated around of the axis 4.
  • the two branches 5, 6 of the U-shaped cable pass through the two jaws 2, 3 so that the latter can slide along said two branches 5 and 6.
  • a spring 9 pressing on the bar 7 pushes the jaws 2, 3 against the cylinder 1 so as to bring the cylinder 1 closer to the axis 4. This has the effect of keeping the jaws 2 and 3 in a separated position.
  • a flexible element 10, a cable in the embodiment shown is fixed to the jaws 2 and 3 and passes through the spring 9 to end in a loop 11 which bears against the bar 8.
  • the loop 11 in the form of execution shown is a circular ring having its center in point 17, but this loop could have any shape and even it could be replaced by a bar.
  • the outer surface of one of the jaws In order to increase the grip without making recovery from the jammer too difficult, it has been found that it is advantageous for the outer surface of one of the jaws to be substantially smooth and flat, while the outer surface of the other jaw has a double curvature with streaks.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Lowering Means (AREA)

Abstract

This chock comprises two jaws (2, 3) which are held in a separated position by a cylinder (1). The cylinder (1) is held elastically by the spring (9) close to the spindle (4) of articulation of the jaws (2 and 3). The relative position of the jaws (2 and 3) and of the cylinder (1) may be modified; it suffices to pull on the ring (11), which causes the jaws (2 and 3) to slide over the cables (5 and 6), compresses the spring (9) and enables the jaws (2 and 3) to be brought together so as to insert them in a rock fissure. The ring (11) is then released and the jaws separate, fixing the chock. This chock is of a simple construction and thus cheap and is easy to recover. <IMAGE>

Description

L'invention a pour objet un coinceur, notamment pour l'alpinisme ou la spéléologie. Le coinceur est un ustensile en métal utilisé pour l'assurage sur une paroi rocheuse. Jouant le rôle de piton, le coinceur se place dans une fissure et se bloque sous l'effet de la traction. Il permet un assurage efficace et contrairement au piton, ne dégrade pas le rocher.The subject of the invention is a jammer, in particular for mountaineering or speleology. The jammer is a metal utensil used for belaying on a rock wall. Playing the role of piton, the jammer is placed in a crack and is blocked under the effect of traction. It provides effective belaying and, unlike the piton, does not degrade the rock.

Les premiers coinceurs ont été constitués par une pièce en forme de coin dans laquelle était fixé un câble. Bien que de construction simple, ils avaient un certain poids. C'est pourquoi très rapidement il est apparu le problème de la récupération du coinceur après usage. De plus, ces premiers coinceurs sont inertes, c'est-à-dire qu'une fois placés dans une fissure, ils ne tiennent en place que dans la mesure où une traction s'exerce sur eux ou bien il faut prendre le risque de les coincer très fort et alors ne plus pouvoir les enlever.The first jammers were made up of a wedge-shaped piece in which a cable was fixed. Although simple in construction, they carried a certain weight. This is why very quickly there appeared the problem of recovering the jammer after use. In addition, these first jammers are inert, that is to say that once placed in a crack, they only hold in place as far as a traction is exerted on them or else it is necessary to take the risk of wedge them very hard and then no longer be able to remove them.

Ces inconvénients ont été supprimés par de nouvelles réalisations, notamment celles définies dans les brevets américains no 4,643,378 et 4,715,568. Mais ces dispositifs sont compliqués donc chers et se détériorent rapidement.These drawbacks have been eliminated by new embodiments, in particular those defined in US patents 4,643,378 and 4,715,568. But these devices are complicated and therefore expensive and deteriorate rapidly.

L'invention a pour but de présenter un coinceur de construction simple, donc bon marché, facile à récupérer et présentant toutes les garanties de sécurité.The invention aims to present a simple construction jammer, therefore inexpensive, easy to recover and having all the safety guarantees.

Ces buts sont atteints avec le coinceur défini à la revendication 1.These objects are achieved with the jammer defined in claim 1.

L'invention sera mieux comprise à la lecture de la description donnée à titre d'exemple d'une forme d'exécution du coinceur en regard des dessins sur lesquels :

  • la figure 1 représente le coinceur vu de dessus
  • la figure 2 montre une vue de côté du coinceur selon la figure 1
  • la figure 3 montre comment le coinceur tient dans une fissure.
The invention will be better understood on reading the description given by way of example of an embodiment of the jammer with reference to the drawings in which:
  • Figure 1 shows the jammer seen from above
  • Figure 2 shows a side view of the jammer according to Figure 1
  • Figure 3 shows how the jammer fits in a crack.

Comme représenté sur les figures 1 et 2, un coinceur selon l'invention comporte un élément souple 5, 6 qui dans la forme d'exécution représentée est un câble, par exemple un câble de frein pour voiture. Le câble de frein pour voiture est un matériau qui convient particulièrement bien car il est résistant tout en étant pas trop souple. Le câble 5, 6 défini une boucle 19 dans laquelle on pourra accrocher un mousqueton ou une cordelette; afin d'éviter l'usure, le câble dans la zone formant boucle comporte une gaine de protection 12.As shown in Figures 1 and 2, a jammer according to the invention comprises a flexible element 5, 6 which in the embodiment shown is a cable, for example a car brake cable. The car brake cable is a particularly suitable material because it is resistant while not being too flexible. The cable 5, 6 defines a loop 19 in which it is possible to hang a carabiner or a cord; in order to avoid wear, the cable in the loop area has a protective sheath 12.

Le câble 5, 6 est maintenu dans une forme de U par des barres 7, 8, 13 et les deux extrémités des branches 5, 6 du U viennent s'ancrer dans l'élément mobile 1 qui dans la forme d'exécution représentée est un cylindre circulaire en aluminium. Le cylindre 1 se trouve en deux mâchoires 2 et 3 qui sont aussi en aluminium. La mâchoire 3 comporte un téton qui vient se placer dans une creusure 18 prévue sur la mâchoire 2. Un axe 4 passe dans un trou de la mâchoire 2 et dans un trou de la mâchoire 3. Ce qui fait que les deux mâchoires sont articulées autour de l'axe 4. Les deux branches 5, 6 du câble en forme de U traversent les deux mâchoires 2, 3 de manière que ces dernières puissent coulisser le long desdites deux branches 5 et 6. Un ressort 9 s appuyant sur la barre 7 repousse les mâchoires 2, 3 contre le cylindre 1 de manière à rapprocher le cylindre 1 de l'axe 4. Ceci a pour effet de maintenir les mâchoires 2 et 3 dans une position écartée. Un élément souple 10, un câble dans la forme d'exécution représentée est fixé aux mâchoires 2 et 3 et traverse le ressort 9 pour se terminer par une boucle 11 qui s'appuye contre la barre 8. La boucle 11 dans la forme d'exécution représentée est un anneau circulaire ayant son centre au point 17, mais cette boucle pourrait avoir n'importe quelle forme et même elle pourrait être remplacée par une barrette.The cable 5, 6 is held in a U shape by bars 7, 8, 13 and the two ends of the branches 5, 6 of the U are anchored in the movable element 1 which in the embodiment shown is a circular aluminum cylinder. The cylinder 1 is in two jaws 2 and 3 which are also made of aluminum. The jaw 3 has a stud which is placed in a recess 18 provided on the jaw 2. An axis 4 passes through a hole in the jaw 2 and into a hole in the jaw 3. This means that the two jaws are articulated around of the axis 4. The two branches 5, 6 of the U-shaped cable pass through the two jaws 2, 3 so that the latter can slide along said two branches 5 and 6. A spring 9 pressing on the bar 7 pushes the jaws 2, 3 against the cylinder 1 so as to bring the cylinder 1 closer to the axis 4. This has the effect of keeping the jaws 2 and 3 in a separated position. A flexible element 10, a cable in the embodiment shown is fixed to the jaws 2 and 3 and passes through the spring 9 to end in a loop 11 which bears against the bar 8. The loop 11 in the form of execution shown is a circular ring having its center in point 17, but this loop could have any shape and even it could be replaced by a bar.

Le coinceur fonctionne de la manière suivante :

  • - au repos les mâchoires 2 et 3 sont en appui contre le cylindre 1 poussé par le ressort 9,
  • - on enfile un doigt dans l'anneau 11 et l'on tire de manière à comprimer le ressort 9 et à déplacer les mâchoires 2 et 3 pour que le cylindre 1 s'éloigne de l'axe 4, ce qui permet de rapprocher les mâchoires 2 et 3,
  • - on introduit les mâchoires dans une fissure de rocher 16 (voir figure 3),
  • - on relache la traction sur l'anneau 11, les mâchoires 2 et 3 sont repoussées vers le cylindre 1 et s'écartent l'une de l'autre en appliquant les surfaces extérieures 14 et 15 des mâchoires contre les côtés de la fissure, ce qui immobilise et maintient immédiatement le coinceur dans la fissure,
  • - pour récupérer le coinceur, il suffit d'enfiler un doigt dans l'anneau 11 et avec la paume de la main de repousser la boucle 19 contre les mâchoires 2 et 3. Le cylindre se déplace en s'éloignant de l'axe 4 ce qui permet aux mâchoires de se rapprocher et au coinceur d'être sorti de la fissure.
The jammer works as follows:
  • - at rest the jaws 2 and 3 are in abutment against the cylinder 1 pushed by the spring 9,
  • - a finger is threaded into the ring 11 and it is pulled so as to compress the spring 9 and to move the jaws 2 and 3 so that the cylinder 1 moves away from the axis 4, which makes it possible to bring the jaws 2 and 3,
  • - the jaws are introduced into a rock crack 16 (see FIG. 3),
  • - the traction is released on the ring 11, the jaws 2 and 3 are pushed back towards the cylinder 1 and move away from one another by applying the outer surfaces 14 and 15 of the jaws against the sides of the crack, which immediately immobilizes and keeps the jammer in the crack,
  • - to recover the jammer, just put a finger in the ring 11 and with the palm of your hand push the loop 19 against the jaws 2 and 3. The cylinder moves away from the axis 4 this allows the jaws to come closer and the jammer to come out of the crack.

Afin d'augmenter l'adhérence sans rendre trop difficile la récupération du coinceur, il a été constaté qu'il était avantageux que la surface extérieure d'une des mâchoires soit sensiblement lisse et plane, tandis que la surface extérieure de l'autre mâchoire présente une double courbure avec des stries.In order to increase the grip without making recovery from the jammer too difficult, it has been found that it is advantageous for the outer surface of one of the jaws to be substantially smooth and flat, while the outer surface of the other jaw has a double curvature with streaks.

Il est prévu de fabriquer le coinceur en différentes grandeurs afin de pouvoir l'adapter à plusieurs largeur de fissure, avantageusement on prévoit 5 grandeurs.It is planned to manufacture the jammer in different sizes in order to be able to adapt it to several crack widths, advantageously 5 sizes are provided.

Claims (4)

1. Coinceur, notamment pour l'alpinisme ou la spéléologie, comprenant un premier élément souple constituant une boucle destinée à recevoir les moyens d'assurage, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte deux mâchoires articulées l'une a l'autre destinées à être coincées par leur face extérieure dans une fissure de rocher, et un élément mobile entre les deux mâchoires attaché à un premier élément souple de manière à les maintenir écartées à l'encontre d'un ressort, les mâchoires étant reliées à un second élément souple de manière à pouvoir les rapprocher en changeant la position de l'élément mobile et en comprimant le ressort.1. Wedge, in particular for mountaineering or speleology, comprising a first flexible element constituting a loop intended to receive the belay means, characterized in that it comprises two jaws articulated one to the other intended to be wedged by their outer face in a rock crack, and a movable element between the two jaws attached to a first flexible element so as to keep them apart against a spring, the jaws being connected to a second flexible element of so that they can be brought together by changing the position of the movable element and compressing the spring. 2. Coinceur selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que les premier et second éléments souples sont des câbles et l'élément mobile est un cylindre métallique.2. Wedge according to claim 1, characterized in that the first and second flexible elements are cables and the movable element is a metal cylinder. 3. Coinceur selon l'une des revendications 1 et 2, caractérisé en ce que la surface extérieure d'une mâchoire est sensiblement lisse et plane tandis que la surface extérieure de l'autre mâchoire présente une double courbure avec des stries.3. Wedge according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the outer surface of a jaw is substantially smooth and flat while the outer surface of the other jaw has a double curvature with ridges. 4. Coinceur selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que les mâchoires et l'élément mobile sont en alliage d'aluminium.4. Wedge according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the jaws and the movable member are made of aluminum alloy.
EP90810785A 1990-10-15 1990-10-15 Chock for mountaineering or speleology Withdrawn EP0481151A1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP90810785A EP0481151A1 (en) 1990-10-15 1990-10-15 Chock for mountaineering or speleology

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP90810785A EP0481151A1 (en) 1990-10-15 1990-10-15 Chock for mountaineering or speleology

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EP0481151A1 true EP0481151A1 (en) 1992-04-22

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8593706B2 (en) 2007-01-15 2013-11-26 Samsung Electronics Co., Ltd. Illuminating light source, scanner module employing the same, and image scanning apparatus employing the scanner module
CZ306178B6 (en) * 2014-04-24 2016-09-07 Vysoká Škola Báňská - Technická Univerzita Ostrava Lever-type mechanical stopper
CN111420368A (en) * 2020-05-19 2020-07-17 郭细婷 Automatic climbing device for erecting electric wire pole and power grid

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2396562A1 (en) * 1977-07-05 1979-02-02 Bellefon Patrice De Wedge block for use by climber - has tapered body with ribs or grooves to receive further blocks
EP0195654A2 (en) * 1985-03-18 1986-09-24 Karl Guthrie Roller-chock climbing aid
US4715568A (en) * 1985-09-20 1987-12-29 David A. Hornbeck Expansible piton

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2396562A1 (en) * 1977-07-05 1979-02-02 Bellefon Patrice De Wedge block for use by climber - has tapered body with ribs or grooves to receive further blocks
EP0195654A2 (en) * 1985-03-18 1986-09-24 Karl Guthrie Roller-chock climbing aid
US4715568A (en) * 1985-09-20 1987-12-29 David A. Hornbeck Expansible piton

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8593706B2 (en) 2007-01-15 2013-11-26 Samsung Electronics Co., Ltd. Illuminating light source, scanner module employing the same, and image scanning apparatus employing the scanner module
CZ306178B6 (en) * 2014-04-24 2016-09-07 Vysoká Škola Báňská - Technická Univerzita Ostrava Lever-type mechanical stopper
CN111420368A (en) * 2020-05-19 2020-07-17 郭细婷 Automatic climbing device for erecting electric wire pole and power grid

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