EP0480776A1 - Procédé et installation pour la modification de matières textiles par flexion - Google Patents

Procédé et installation pour la modification de matières textiles par flexion Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0480776A1
EP0480776A1 EP91309427A EP91309427A EP0480776A1 EP 0480776 A1 EP0480776 A1 EP 0480776A1 EP 91309427 A EP91309427 A EP 91309427A EP 91309427 A EP91309427 A EP 91309427A EP 0480776 A1 EP0480776 A1 EP 0480776A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fibers
fiber
fabric
cylindrical roll
longitudinal axis
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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EP91309427A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Louis Dischler
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Milliken Research Corp
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Milliken Research Corp
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Publication date
Priority claimed from US07/596,271 external-priority patent/US5363599A/en
Application filed by Milliken Research Corp filed Critical Milliken Research Corp
Publication of EP0480776A1 publication Critical patent/EP0480776A1/fr
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C19/00—Breaking or softening of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J3/00—Modifying the surface
    • D02J3/02—Modifying the surface by abrading, scraping, scuffing, cutting, or nicking
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
    • D06C15/14—Beetling

Definitions

  • This invention relates to improving the hand and/or dyeability of yarns and fabrics.
  • thermotropic liquid crystal fibers An example of a type of yarn or fabric that can pose a severe problem with regard to both hand and dyeability are those constructed out of liquid crystal fibers. This would include both lyotropic and thermotropic liquid crystal fibers.
  • a mere illustration of a type of thermotropic liquid crystal fiber is a fully aromatic polyester and a mere illustration of a lyotropic liquid crystal fiber would be an aromatic polyamide (polyaramid).
  • Fully aromatic polyester fibers have been found to be well-suited for cut resistant apparel as well as electrical insulation, ropes and cable, and so forth. These fibers have a high tensile strength, low elongation coupled with no measurable creep up to fifty percent of the breaking load, excellent chemical resistance and good physical property retention over a broad range of temperatures.
  • An example of a fully aromatic polyester fiber is VECTRAN® manufactured by Hoechst Celanese Corporation and described in U.S. Patent No. 4,479,999 which is incorporated herein by reference.
  • Aromatic polyamide (polyaramid) fibers have also been found to be well-suited for application in areas for personal protection such as in ballistic vests and in cut resistant gloves. In areas where high strength is of primary importance, as in ballistic protection, fabrics of high modulus aramid fibers such as poly(para-phenylene terephthalamide) are used. Such high modulus fibers are hereinafter known as HM-aramid fibers.
  • HM-aramid fibers is KEVLAR® manufactured by E. I. du Pont Nemours and Co. and described in U.S. Patent no. 4,198,494, which is incorporated herein by reference.
  • One method of treating textile fabric is by subjecting successive adjacent sections of fabric to intermittent mechanical impact with an abrasive means along the width of the fabric. Substantial sustained contact between the fabric and abrasive means is avoided with the mechanical impact being at a force and frequency sufficient to cause a substantially uniform modification of the surface characteristics of the fabric.
  • an abrasive media is used to chisel away at outer fibers to bring up short hairs. This is disclosed in commonly assigned U.S. Patent No. 4,512,065 issued April 23, 1955, commonly assigned U.S, Patent No. 4,316,928 issued February 23, 1982, and commonly assigned U.S. Patent No. 4,478,844 issued September 4, 1984.
  • a second method of treating textile fabric is to subject the face and backside of fabric to successive impacting by a plurality of flaps to break the fiber or filament bond thereof and increase the yarn to yarn mobility therein.
  • Both patents disclose a method for mechanically conditioning textile materials while not providing repeated stress on fiber by high velocity impact that bends the fiber and compresses it in a direction parallel to the fiber's longitudinal axis.
  • Another method of treating textile fabric is that termed "fulling” or “bulking”.
  • This is a general or routine finishing process that utilizes the action of water moisture, friction and pressure with the fabrics being alternately compressed and extended. The action causes the fibers to swell and thicken thereby shrinking the yarn and closing the weave, which produces a soft fabric with full hand and body. In this case, the weave is compressed and not the fiber. This reduces the density of the fabric partially achieved by increasing the corrugation of the warp yarn and thereby loosening up the weave.
  • a fourth method of treating textile fabric is by the use of rubber belts to create microcorrugations in the fabric.
  • fabric contacts a thick rubber belt that is partially wrapped around a cylinder. At this point the outside of the belt that is in contact with the fabric is stretched while the inside of the belt that is in contact with the cylinder is compressed.
  • the fabric and belt pass through a nip whereupon the belt wraps around a second cylinder and the curvature is reversed. This effectively compresses the fabric lengthwise since the fabric is trapped between the belt and the second cylinder.
  • the warp yarns ar placed in compression, however, the fibers bend and are subjected to very little compressive force.
  • the softening achieved by this process is by physically rearranging fibers and not by changing the physical characteristics of the fibers themselves. However, there is no significant impact or fiber compression.
  • a fifth method of treating textile fabric is that of jet dyeing and jet rope washing.
  • Jet dyeing is when fabric tied in rope form is placed in a tube-like container and dyestuff is forced through pressure jets. The dye is continuously recirculated as the cloth moves or floats in a tension-free condition along the tube container at rapid speed. The movement of the fabric is controlled by the propulsive action of the dye liquid as it is forced through the jet.
  • Jet rope washing is a very similar process utilizing water instead of dyestuff.
  • the fabric is not traveling at a very rapid velocity in order to generate any significant force along the longitudinal axis of the fibers within the fabric and possessing very little impact capacity.
  • shot peening involves the perpendicular striking of fabric with a wedge or ball shaped device that is similar to “beetling” in which fabric is revolved slowly around a huge wooden drum and pounded with wooden hammers. With both methods, the yarns are flattened to make the weave appear less open than it really is. Shot peening is disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,015,317 issued on April 5, 1977 to The Dow Chemical Company. Furthermore, the increased surface area gives more luster, greater absorbency and smoothness. This force, however, is perpendicular to the face of fabric as opposed to being aligned with the longitudinal axis of the fiber.
  • This invention relates to improved method and apparatus for giving material an aged appearance and more particularly, to provide a method and apparatus for cleaning, abrading, scraping, puncturing or otherwise working fabrics or garments in order to modify the appearance, smoothness, coefficient of friction, handle, drape, and other related fabric proprieties.
  • a major problem with the current means of altering fabric texture and appearance is that the large stones used in the process, along with the very abrasive particulate generated during processing, are very deleterious to equipment, and in addition, require manual removal from the processed garments due to the tendency of the smaller particles to accumulate in pockets and interior surfaces.
  • Another problem is that the washing process itself is very time consuming and increases the cost of manufacturing the garment to a significant degree.
  • a further problem is that this abrasive washing process is very inexact. Due to the variables involved, the final appearance of the garment is not consistent. Moreover, the combination of chemical and abrasive treatment degrades the fabric strength and reduced the garment life.
  • the present invention treats fiber and/or fabric in a manner not disclosed in the known prior art with associated unique results.
  • An apparatus and method for modifying the texture and appearance of material which comprises a closed hollow cylinder having an interior surface with curved wall and a means for material entry and exit to said hollow cylinder and at least one gas jet directed away from the interior of the curved wall of said cylinder and an air exhaust means for said hollow cylinder.
  • the one or more gas jets create a vortex that rapidly and repeatedly cycles the material at low tension past the gas jets.
  • the rapid vibrations generated in the material by the jet(a) serve to break apart fiber to fiber bonds caused by finish and loosen up the structure of the yarns and that of the material.
  • An advantage of this invention is that the hand of the fabric is noticeably improved, especially, but not limited to fabrics formed of liquid crystal fibers and bast fibers. Furthermore, bending, drape, bulk and surface softness are also noticeably improved.
  • a second advantage of this invention is that the fiber may be treated in either yarn or fabric form.
  • a third advantage of this invention is that there is a relatively minor degradation in strength after treatment.
  • a fourth advantage of this invention is that when treated, ramie and flax fabrics have a higher strength and softer hand than cotton fabrics of equal weight.
  • HM-aramid fibers are readily dyeable by basic or disperse dyes for medium and dark shades and sulfur dyes for light shades due to increased porosity that allows the penetration of dyestuffs into the HM-aramid fiber or fabric without the need for swelling agents or carriers.
  • a sixth advantage of this invention is that aromatic polyester can be transformed from a very stiff and unconfortable fabric to a very soft, pliable and supple fabric with an increase in dyeability at the fiber's nodes.
  • a seventh advantage of this invention is that it treats fabric in both the warp and fill direction as opposed to traditional treatment processes that affect fabric only in the warp direction.
  • An eighth advantage of this invention is that the desired aged appearance is obtained as wall as a very soft texture that is superior to that which can be obtained by stone washing.
  • a ninth advantage of this invention is that no abrasives need to be removed from either the materials or equipment after processing, although abrasives can be used as an option.
  • Yet a tenth advantage of this invention is the minimal time required when contrasted to abrasion or washing processes.
  • An eleventh advantage of this invention is that the final result is very exact depending on the control of variables such as time and air pressure.
  • a twelfth advantage of this invention is that the material is not degraded due to combination of chemicals and abrasives.
  • Fatiguing is defined as repeated stress on fiber by high velocity impact that bends the fiber and compresses it in a direction parallel to the fiber's longitudinal axis. High velocity is defined as requiring the fiber to move at a relative velocity of 50 feet per second or higher.
  • an apparatus for fatiguing fabric is generally indicated by numeral 1.
  • Fabric in rope form 2 is threaded through the apparatus 1 by initially passing through combination guide and idler rolls 10 and 12 mounted on shafts 85 and 86 respectively.
  • the fabric in rope form 2 then passes through an oscillator that is generally indicated by numeral 14 and then through a plurality of guide sleeves formed in plates 102, 105, 108, 111 and 114.
  • the fabric in rope form 2 is first treated by impact rolls 18 and 19, which are rotating in a clockwise direction. Treatment is effected by the compressive forces generated in the fibers comprising the fabric in rope form 2 by the high velocity impact of trapezoidal bars 32 that extend across the lateral width of the impact rolls. This high velocity impact, as previously defined, requires the fibers to move at a relative rate of 50 feet per second or higher. The fibers are bent and compressed in a direction parallel to the longitudinal axis of each fiber. This is also shown in FIGS. 6 and 7 with a typical impact roll generally denoted as A.
  • the shaft is generally denoted as B with an extension C for attaching a pulley thereto.
  • the trapezoidal bars are secured to the impact roll A by a series of socket head cap screws 199.
  • Each impact roll is timed so that it rotates ninety degrees out of phase with its paired twin on the same horizontal plane. This results in little or no tension being placed on the fabric in rope form 2.
  • the rotational direction of each subsequent pair of impact rolls is reversed to further insure uniformity of treatment.
  • the fabric in rope form exits the machine by means of guide and idler wheels 34 and 36 that are each mounted on shafts 95 and 96 respectively.
  • a conventional means is used to transport and tension the fabric in rope form 2, which could be a traction roll and dancer combination and variations thereof.
  • FIGS. 2 and 3 disclose a right side view and front view, respectively of the apparatus 1, comprising of three rectangular frames 80, 81 and 83 joined together.
  • the center rectangular frame 83 has seven horizontal dual members on seven different levels with dual vertical support members 38 and 40. From top to bottom these levels are numerically indicated as 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, and 48 respectively.
  • Combination guide and idler roll 10 is rotatively connected to a pair of bearings 51 on each side. The pair of bearings 51 are attached to a pad 52 that is mounted at the top of vertical side member 40.
  • Combination guide and idler roll 12 is attached to bearings 54 that are attached to dual upper pads 55 that are attached to the first horizontal dual members 42 at the top of frame 83.
  • the oscillator 14 is mounted on top of the second horizontal dual members 43. Mounted to the second horizontal dual members 43 are lower dual pads 101 that are connected to a lower plate 102 as shown in FIG. 3.
  • the third horizontal level has impact roll 18 rotatively attached to dual bearing 56 and impact roll 19 is rotatively attached to dual bearings 57.
  • Dual bearings 56 and 57 are attached to upper dual pads 58 that are mounted on the top of the third horizontal dual members 44.
  • On the bottom of the third horizontal dual members are lower dual pads 104 with a lower plate 105 connected thereto by means of conventional hardware or equivalent through to the third horizontal dual members 44.
  • the identical arrangement is duplicated on the fourth horizontal level with dual bearings 60 for impact roll 21, dual bearings 61 for impact roll 22 with dual bearings 60, 61 attached to upper dual pads 62 mounted to the top of the fourth horizontal dual members 45.
  • On the bottom of the fourth horizontal dual members 45 are lower dual pads 107 with a lower plate 108 connected thereto by means of conventional hardware or equivalent through to the fourth horizontal dual members 45.
  • the sixth horizontal level has the same arrangement, with dual bearings 68 for impact roll 27, dual bearings 69 for impact roll 28 with dual bearings 68, 69 attached to upper dual gads 70 mounted to the top of the sixth horixontal dual members 47.
  • dual bearings 68 for impact roll 27 dual bearings 69 for impact roll 28 with dual bearings 68, 69 attached to upper dual gads 70 mounted to the top of the sixth horixontal dual members 47.
  • On the bottom of the sixth horizontal dual members 47 are lower dual pads 113 with a lower plate 114 connected thereto by means of conventional hardware or equivalent through to the sixth horizontal dual members 47.
  • Guide and idler roll 34 is rotatively connected to dual bearings 72, which are mounted on upper dual pads 73 that are attached to the seventh horizontal dual members 48.
  • the fabric in rope form 2 then exits the apparatus 1 by means of another guide and idler roll 36 that is rotatively connected to dual bearings 75, which are mounted on plate 76 that is attached to the bottom of vertical side member 38.
  • the three rectangular frames 80, 81, and 83 are connected to a lower horizontal support frame 117 with support pads 316 interposed therebetween.
  • the lower horizontal support frame 117 is supported by four vibration isolation pads 118.
  • Rectangular frame 80 shown to the right of rectangular frame 83 in FIG. 3, has a top member 121 that is connected to rectangular frame 83 by means of an angle bracket 122 and bolts, or other equivalent attachment means such as welding, adhesives, and so forth as is typical of all bolt attachments throughout this application.
  • the middle member 125 of rectangular frame 80 which is on the same horizontal plane as the fifth horizontal dual members 46 of rectangular frame 83, supports a motor 127 by means of a motor support frame 128.
  • the motor 127 has a pulley 130 connected to it that drives a belt 131 that rotates a pulley 132 connected to impact roll 22 by means of shaft 90 through bearing 61 and pulley 133 connected to impact roll 21 by means of shaft 89 through bearing 60.
  • the impact rolls 18, 19, 21, 22, 24, 25, 27, 28 throughout this application are preferable twelve inches in diameter with the preferred impact roll speed of 5,000 revolutions per minute, although these values can vary with the consideration that the fabric in rope form 2 must go into compression during impact with the bars 32, rather than simple buckling or bending.
  • the motors 127, 137, 153 and 162 can be electric, pneumatic, combustion and so forth. About 25 horsepower per pair of impact rolls is required for most fabrics in order to move the fabric at a rate of 50 feet per second or higher.
  • compression can be imparted to the filling as well as the warp yarns along the longitudinal axis of the respective fibers.
  • the lower member 135 of rectangular frame 80 which is on the same horizontal plane as the seventh horizontal dual members 48 of rectangular frame 83, supports a motor 137 by means of a motor support frame 138.
  • the motor 137 has a pulley 140 connected to it that drives a belt 141 that rotates a pulley 142 connected to impact roll 28 by means of shaft 94 through bearing 69 and pulley 143 connected to impact roll 27 by means of shaft 93 through bearing 68.
  • Rectangular frame 81 is on the opposite side of rectangular frame 83 from rectangular frame 80 as shown in FIG. 3, has a top member 145 that is connected to rectangular frame 83 by means of an angle bracket 146 and bolts, or other equivalent attachment means.
  • the first middle member 148 of rectangular frame 81 which is on the same horizontal plane as the fourth horizontal dual members 45 of rectangular frame 83, supports a motor 133 by means of a motor support frame 154.
  • the motor 153 has a pulley 156 connected to it that drives a belt 157 that rotates a pulley 158 connected to impact roll 19 by means of shaft 88 through bearing 57 and pulley 159 (not shown) that is similar to pulley 158 connected to impact roll 18 by means of shaft 87 through bearing 56.
  • the second middle member 150 of rectangular frame 81 which is on the same horizontal plane as the sixth horizontal dual members 47 of rectangular frame 83, supports a motor 162 by means of a motor support frame 163.
  • the motor 162 has a pulley 165 connected to it that drives a belt 166 that rotates a pulley 167 connected to impact roll 25 by means of shaft 92 through bearing 65 and pulley 168 (not shown) that is similar to pulley 167 connected to impact roll 24 by means of shaft 91 through bearing 64.
  • There is a lower member 151 of rectangular frame 81 which is on the same horizontal plane as the seventh horizontal dual members 48 of rectangular frame 81, which is used for structural support.
  • the fabric oscillator is generally indicated by numeral 14.
  • the fabric in rope form 2 is nipped between a pair of rubber covered nip rolls 170 and 171, rotatably mounted on central shafts 200 and 201, which have a hole in each opposing end that slide over dual opposing shafts 172 and 308.
  • the dual opposing shafts 172 and 308 have hexagonal nuts 174 on each end of each shaft 172 and 308 with dual springs 173 that put pressure against the opposing ends of the central shafts 200 and 201 with pads 176 therebetween.
  • the pads 176 are rigidly fixed to the rotatably mounted oscillating disk 206, as also shown in FIG.
  • the oscillating disk 206 is rotatable mounted to a stationary platform 180 by means of large diameter bearings 182.
  • the opposite end of the actuator 177 is pivotally connected to the stationary platform 180 by means of bearing and shaft combination 185.
  • the stationary platform 180 is mounted on upper dual pads 187 that are attached to the second level horizontal dual members 43.
  • Fabric may be fatigue treated by means of impact with bars mounted to the exterior of a cylinder rotated at high speeds of over 50 feet per second.
  • the fabric is treated in the form of rope to reduce the required width of the treatment rolls due to the high amount of rotational kinetic energy stored in these rolls and because of the fact that in rope form, the fabric can be treated in both the warp and fill direction simultaneously.
  • Each individual fiber is bent and compressed in a direction parallel to the fiber's longitudinal axis
  • FIGS. 6 end 7, discloses a front and side view of a typical impact roll denoted as A with a shaft B with an extension C for attaching a pulley thereon.
  • A a typical impact roll denoted as A
  • shaft B with an extension C for attaching a pulley thereon.
  • dual flange members 197 which serve the function of affixing the impact roll A to the shaft B.
  • cover plates 193 mounted on each aide of the impact roll A.
  • Another means to fatigue fabric is by application of one or more gas jets directed away from the interior curved surface of a cylinder, generating a vortex that rapidly and repeatedly cycles the substrate at low tension past the gas jets.
  • the rapid vibrations generated in the substrate by the jets serve to break apart fiber to fiber bonds caused by finish and loosen up the structure of the yarns and that of the substrate.
  • Impact of the fabric with the walls of the cylinder repeatedly flexes and axially compresses the fibers, inducing fatigue. This creates a desired aged appearance as well as a very soft texture.
  • an apparatus to fatigue yarn is generally indicated by numeral 201.
  • Yarn 202 is threaded through the apparatus 201 into the top opening 241 along the centerline 201 and is rapidly cycled against the walls of a jet cylinder 207 located between a lower spacer cylinder 208 and an upper spacer cylinder 209.
  • This structure is mounted between a lower tapered end cap 210 and an upper tapered end cap 211.
  • the yarn is then removed through a bottom opening 242.
  • the apparatus 201 is substantially a cylindrical structure with tapered ends.
  • the main mechanisms for fatiguing are dual lower converging/diverging slots 217 and 218 and dual upper converging/diverging slots 215 and 216.
  • upper converging/diverging slot 215 and lower converging/diverging slot 217 are shown.
  • Converging/diverging slot 216 is located one hundred and eighty degrees from converging/diverging slot 215 on the same horizontal plane and converging/diverging slot 218 is located one hundred and eighty degrees from converging/diverging slot 217 on the same horizontal plane, as shown in FIG. 10.
  • Slots 215, 216, 217 and 218 direct air tangentially to the inside of the apparatus 201.
  • the rapidly rotating air follows helical path 290 and helical path 291, as shown in FIG, 10.
  • the tapered bore of end caps 210 and 211 allow air to exhaust only after it has lost most of its initial circumferential velocity.
  • Air is delivered to said converging/diverging slots 215, 216, 217, and 218 by pneumatic tubes 223 and 224 that attach to "L" shaped threaded fittings 226 and 227 that attach to the main cylindrical body 229 of the apparatus 201.
  • the main cylindrical body 229 is formed around the jet cylinder 207, lower spacer cylinder 208, and upper spacer cylinder 209 and functions as an outer shell.
  • "L" shaped threaded fitting 226 is attached to main cylindrical body 229 and delivers air to converging/diverging slots 217 and 218, as shown in FIG. 10.
  • the converging/diverging slots 217 and 218 are formed in the indented projecting circular extension 250, as shown in FIGS. 10 and 11.
  • the upper tapered end cap is attached to the top of the main cylindrical body 229 by four hexagonal bolts 234 or other mechanical means and the lower tapered end cap 210 is attached by four hexagonal bolts 236 to the bottom of the main cylindrical body 229 in a similar manner.
  • the fiber and/or fabric will exhibit three possible characteristics.
  • the first characteristic is the presence of fibrils due to shear and/or abrasion present in the fatiguing process. Fibrils are defined as one of the minute fibrous elements making up a fiber. Fibrous is defined as containing, consisting of, or like fibers. This is shown in FIG. 12.
  • the second characteristic is the presence of physical change created by the bending and compression of the fiber along the fiber's longitudinal axis. For relatively homogenous fiber like KEVLAR®, kink bands generated by bending or compression occur randomly along the fiber.
  • the compressive and bending stresses will not be random, but rather will correspond to the weakest areas of the fiber.
  • the weakest points are the so called growth nodes, which are accentuated and expanded by the treatment.
  • the weakest points are nodes which are believed to be areas of segregated fibular tangles. These areas are similarly expanded and are typified by FIG. 14.
  • the third characteristic is cracks in the fiber due to fatigue, as shown in FIG. 15. These cracks are defined as axial separations in the fiber, and are believed to be the cause of the node enlargement described above. This third characteristic is the most important in enhancing both hand and dyeability.
  • thermotropic liquid crystal fiber A type of yarn or fabric in which the hand and dyeability are improved by repeated stress on fiber by high velocity impact that bends the fiber and compresses it in a direction parallel to the fiber's longitudinal axis is a liquid crystal fiber.
  • thermotropic liquid crystal fiber is a fully aromatic polyester and one type of a lyotropic liquid crystal fiber, among others, would be an aromatic polyamide (polyaramid).
  • aromatic polyamide would be high modulus aramid fibers such as poly(para-phenylene terephthalamide) such as KEVLAR® manufactured by E. I. du Pont Nemours and Co.
  • FIG. 18 is a photomicrograph at 30X magnification of KEVLAR® fibers prior to fatigue treatment.
  • FIG. 19 is a photomicrograph at 30x magnification of KEVLAR® fibers after fatigue treatment. The high degree of fibrillation in FIG. 19 presents a marled contrast to FIG. 18.
  • FIG. 20 is a photomicrograph at 100X magnification of KEVLAR® fibers prior to fatigue treatment
  • FIG. 21 is a photomicrograph at 100x magnification of KEVLAR® fibers after fatigue treatment. This again, demonstrates the contracting degree of fibrillation.
  • FIG. 22 is a photomicrograph at 290X magnification of KEVLAR® fibers prior to fatigue treatment with the ends thereof prominently displayed.
  • FIG. 23 is a photomicrograph at 250x magnification of KEVLAR® fibers after fatigue treatment focusing again on the ends of the fibers. The degree of fibrillation is again contrasted.
  • FIGS. 24 and 26 are photomicrographs at 2000X magnification of KEVLAR® fibers prior to fatigue treatment
  • FIGS. 25 and 27 are photomicrographs at 2500x and 3500x, respectively, magnification of KEVLAR® fibers after fatigue treatment.
  • FIGS. 25 and 27 reveal all three characteristics including fibrils, kink bands and cracks.
  • results from twelve tests relates to hand are reported for a filament KEVLAR® fabric and for a standard filament polyester fabric. These twelve tests are part of the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KESF) and are conveniently divided into five test groups: bending, surface, compression, shearing and tensile. The nature of the tests and units used can be briefly described as follows:
  • the bending properties are "B” - the bending stiffness in gf-cm 2/ cm and "2HB” - the bending hysteresis at @ 0.9 cm ⁇ 1 in gf-cm/cm.
  • Hysteresis is a measure of the energy lost during deformation, representing a lack of recovery.
  • the surface properties are "MIU”- the coefficient of friction, "MMD” - the mean deviation of the coefficient of friction, and "SMD” - the mean deviation in surface roughness in micrometers.
  • the compression properties are "W” - the weight in mg/cm2, "T” - the thickness in millimeters at a compressive pressure of 0.5 gf/cm2, “RC” - the compressional resilience in percent, "WC” - the energy in gf-cm/cm2 to compress the sample to a surface pressure of 50 gm/cm2, and "LC” - compressional linearity.
  • the shear properties are "G” - shear stiffness in gf/cm-degree and "2HG” - shearing hysteresis at 0.5° gf/cm.
  • the tensile properties are "EMT” - the extensibility in percent at the 500 gf/cm level, "LT” - the tensile linearity, "WT” - the tensile energy in gf-cm/cm, and "RT” - the tensile resilience in percent.
  • a mere illustrative example of a fully aromatic polyester fiber is VECTRAN® manufactured by Hoechst Celanese Corporation.
  • FIG. 28 is a photomicrograph at 100X magnification of VECTRAN® fibers prior to fatigue treatment.
  • FIG. 29 is a photomicrograph at 100x magnification of VECTRAN® fibers after fatigue treatment. The high degree of fibrillation and expansion occurring at the nodes in FIG. 29 presents a marked contrast to FIG. 28.
  • FIG. 30 is a photomicrograph at 350X magnification of VECTRAN® fibers prior to fatigue treatment.
  • FIG. 31 is a photomicrograph at 350x magnification of VECTRAN® fibers after fatigue treatment. The high degree of fibrillation and expansion occurring at the nodes in FIG. 31 again presents a marked contrast to FIG. 30.
  • FIG. 32 is a photomicrograph at 1000X magnification of VECTRAN® fibers prior to fatigue treatment.
  • FIG. 33 is a photomicrograph at 1000x magnification of VECTRAN® fibers after fatigue treatment.
  • the high degree of fibrillation and expansion as well as cracking occurring at the nodes in FIG. 33 again presents a marked contrast to FIG. 32, only these photomicrographs present much sharper detail than the previous four photomicrographs.
  • FIG. 34 is a photomicrograph at 2000X magnification of VECTRAN® fibers prior to fatigue treatment.
  • FIG. 35 is a photomicrograph at 2000x magnification of VECTRAN® fibers after fatigue treatment.
  • the high degree of fibrillation and expansion as well as cracking occurring at the nodes in FIG. 35 again presents a marled contrast to FIG. 34, only these photomicrographs present much sharper detail than any of the previous VECTRAN® photomicrographs.
  • tensile strength is reduced by ten percent (10%) or less.
  • the greater mobility and flexibility of the fibers after treatment contribute not only to a soft hand, but also to an improvement in cut resistance. Furthermore, the nodal areas are rendered dyeable by the treatment.
  • a type of fabric whose hand is noticeable improved by the fatiguing process defined as repeated stress on fiber by high velocity impact that bends the fiber and compresses it in a direction parallel to the fiber's longitudinal axis, is one composed of natural fibers.
  • Natural fibers woven into fabric are already dyeable to a significant degree so that the fatiguing process has relatively little effect on this aspect.
  • the most widely used natural fibers are the vegetable fibers, which may be classified into four
  • seed fibers such as cotton and kapok
  • fruit fibers such as coir
  • leaf fibers such as abaca, alfa, sisal, henequen and maguey
  • bast fibers much as linen (flax), ramie, hemp, jute, kenaf, and sunn.
  • ramie and linen are of particular interest because both are hard wearing, very strong fibers. Linen, for example, is approximately twice as strong as cotton, while ramie is about twice as strong as linen. Furthermore, ramie becomes considerably stronger when wet. Chemically, ramie and linen are virtually identical to cotton and therefore take up dye and finishes in the same manner as cotton.
  • the major limitation of these fibers heretofore has been the stiffness of the resultant fabrics as compared to similar fabrics manufactured of cotton. Ramie and linen fibers used in fabrics typically have diameters of two to five times that of cotton fibers.
  • Bast fibers with the exception of ramie, are composed of multiple fiber cells.
  • Ramie fibers generally appear to be unicellar, however, the very linear nature of these fibers allows fatigue treatment to create axially aligned cracks and fibrillation in a manner analogous to that produced in para-aramids. Linen, because of its multicellular structure, is even more susceptible to treatment.
  • the other bast fibers while also susceptible to treatment, have ultimate fiber lengths that are too short to remain in the yarn after separation.
  • Linen and ramie fabrics after fatigue treatment, contain a substantial portion of fibers of a diameter smaller than that of cotton and can exhibit a soft hand considerably softer than that of a cotton fabric of equal weight.
  • FIGS. 36 and 37 are photomicrographs at 350X magnification of ramie fibers before and after fatigue treatment, respectively.
  • the ultimate fibrils are either distinct or loosely bonded to the original structure in FIG. 37, which presents a marked contrast to the monolithic structure of the relatively large diameter fibers in FIG. 36.
  • FIG. 38 is a photomicrograph at 1000X magnification of ramie fibers prior to fatigue treatment.
  • FIG. 39 is a photomicrograph at 1000x magnification of ramie fibers after fatigue treatment.
  • FIGS. 39 reveals two of the three characteristics typical of the treatment including fibrils and numerous cracks.
  • FIG. 40 is a photomicrograph at 1000X magnification of ramie fibers prior to fatigue treatment.
  • FIG. 41 is a photomicrograph at 1000x magnification of ramie fibers after fatigue treatment.
  • FIGS. 41 reveals fibrils and numerous cracks in much the same way as FIG. 39.
  • FIGS. 42 and 43 are photomicrographh at 350X magnification of linen fibers before and after fatigue treatment, respectively.
  • the fibers exhibit a profuse number of attached fibrils that appear to be of a cellular or subcellular size. As is typical in this treatment, no broken fiber ends are apparent.
  • FIGS. 44 and 45 are photomicrographs at 350X magnification of linen fibers before and after fatigue treatment, respectively.
  • the ultimate fibrils are either distinct or loosely bonded to the original structure in FIG. 45, which presents a marked contrast to the monolithic structure of the relatively large diameter fibers in FIG. 44.
  • FIG. 46 is a photomicrograph at 2000X magnification of linen fibers prior to fatigue treatment with the ends thereof prominently displayed.
  • FIG. 47 is a photomicrograph at 2000x magnification of linen fibers after fatigue treatment focusing again on the ends of the fibers. The degree of separation and cracking again provides for a marked contrast.
  • results from twelve teats related to hand are reported for both a linen fabric and for a seventy (70) percent ramie and thirty (30) percent cotton fabric.
  • These twelve tests arm part of the Kawabata Evaluation system for Fabrics (KESF) and are conveniently divided into five teat groups: bending, surface, compression, shearing and tensile. The nature of the tests and units used are describeb on Pages 28 and 29, but for completeness of this disclosure are reiterated as follows:
  • the bending properties are "B” - the bending stiffness in gf-cm 2/ cm and "2HB” - the bending hysteresis at @ 0.9 cm ⁇ 1 in gf-cm/cm.
  • Hysteresis is a measure of the energy lost during deformation, representing a lack of recovery.
  • the surface properties are "MIU”- the coefficient of friction, "MMD” - the mean deviation of the coefficient of friction, and "SMD” - the mean deviation in surface roughness in micrometers.
  • the compression properties are "W” - the weight in mg/cm2, "T” - the thickness in millimeters at a compressive pressure of 0.5 gf/cm2, “RC” - the compressional resilience in percent, "WC” - the energy in gf-cm/cm2 to compress the sample to a surface pressure of 50 gf/cm2, and "LC” - compressional linearity.
  • the shear properties are "G” - shear stiffness in gf/cm-degree and "2HG” - shearing hysteresis at 0.5° gf/cm.
  • the tensile properties are "EMT” - the extensibility in percent at the 500 gf/cm level, "LT” - the tensile linearity, "WT” - the tensile energy in gf-cm/cm, and "RT” - the tensile resilience in percent.
  • FIG. 48 is the structural model commonly accepted as representative of the internal structure of liquid crystal polymer fibers.
  • lyotropic liquid crystal fibers such as KEVLAR® fatigue treatment is believed to generate major cracks between the so called macro fibrils, some of which are pulled free from the surface. Smaller cracks at various levels of the structure are believed to provide access for dyestuff and are believed to be responsible for decreasing the bending stiffness of the fiber.
  • thermotropic liquid crystal fibers natural disruptions in the linear organization of the structure at various levels due to tangles of macro fibrils or fibrils are believed to occur. These areas segregate out into quasi-periodic nodes, having a superficial resemblance to the growth nodes occurring in bast fibers, during spinning or subsequent heat-treating. Stresses generated during fatigue treatment predominately act on these areas, since they are weaker in compression than the bulk fiber.
  • FIGS. 33 and 35 show fibrils which appear to be anchored into the swollen nodes.
  • a single vortex material treatment assembly is indicated generally by numeral 510.
  • This assembly 510 comprises a hollow cylinder 512, the curved wall of which is defined by curved plates 513, top plates 540 and base plates 542, as shown in FIGS, 49, 50 and 51.
  • the curved plates 513 of the hollow cylinder 512 can be constructed out of a variety of materials such as various metals, durable plastics, ceramics and so forth with the preferred material being steel.
  • gas is supplied to the gas jet assemblies by gas hoses 522, preferable constructed out of rubber or any flexible material that can carry gas at high pressure.
  • the gas hoses 522 are attached over a tube inlet 524 to provide gas into the gas jet assembly 520.
  • Each hose 522 connects to a single distribution manifold 526 which supplies gas from a second larger gas supply line 528.
  • This distribution manifold 526 a conventional gas tube interconnection, is attached to the support frame 530 that is for the entire assembly 510.
  • 532 is supplied from tube inlet 524 into the manifold 532 that supplied pressurized gas to through passage 534 which communicates with submanifold 536 that ejects the gas-by means of a converging/diverging nozzle 538.
  • This converging/diverging nozzle 538 is formed by top plate 540 and base plate 542. Both of these plates 540 and 542 are attached to the curved plates 513 by means of locking screws 544 and 546 respectively.
  • the top plate 540 is fastened to the base plate 542 by means of screw 548.
  • the manifold 532 is fastened to the base plate 542 by means of screw 550. Any equivalent structure which creates a gas nozzle tangential to the interior of the curved surface may be used.
  • the gas jet assembly propels gas at a direction substantially tangential to the interior surface of the hollow cylinder 512 as shown by numeral 552.
  • the gas used is typically air compressed to 30 p.s.i., however, depending on the sensitivity of the textile fabric to be treated, this pressure can be varied between 5 to 120 p.s.i. It is found that this process is most effective when the air used to treat the garments is heated substantially above room temperature. It has been found that 350 degrees Fahrenheit is the practical limit for most textile fabrics.
  • the gas jet assemblies 520 serve the dual purpose of propelling the fabric 554 around the inside of the hollow cylinder 512 and simultaneously vibrating the garment as it passes over the nozzle 538.
  • the fabric 554 is treated four times each revolution as it is driven clockwise within the hollow cylinder 512 at a rate of about 25 revolutions per second.
  • the fabric 554 makes a combined sliding, impacting, and rolling motion while traversing the interior surface of the cylinder 512, which defined the outer perimeter of the vortex.
  • the tangential gas lines indicated by 552 flow at sonic velocity or even higher. Exhaust air, lint and other debris escape through the central port 556.
  • the structure of the material 554 is loosened as well as any component yarn that may be present in the material 554. With enough treatment, the material 554 can disintegrate back to its original state of loose fibers.
  • the curved plates 513 are restrained against the radially directed force generated by the rapidly cycling material 554 by blocks 574 that are fastened to both a front support plate 594 and a back support plate 533 by dual bolts 576.
  • the back support plate 533 is attached to the support frame 530.
  • the front support plate 594 is attached to the base plate 542.
  • a cover 590 is attached by a hinge 596 to the front support plate 594.
  • the cover 590 in the preferred embodiment, has a viewing port 591 constructed out of glass, plastic or similar material.
  • the material 554 is treated by a combination of rolling, sliding and impacting with the walls of hollow cylinder 512. It can be appreciated that is the smooth surface of these walls is broken up by the placement of knobs, abrasive material or protrusions, the ageing process will be greatly accelerated. small particles, such as small metal balls, wire portions, rubber, plastic, or wood and so forth, when added to the cylinder 512 will accelerate to a higher speed than the material 554. The relative velocity of small metal particles will be high enough to cause the particles to completely penetrate the material 554 giving it a "buckshot" appearance. Similarly, adding sand to the vortex will give material 554 a "sandblasted" look.
  • small particles such as small metal balls, wire portions, rubber, plastic, or wood and so forth
  • buttons and zippers can be destroyed by this process in a few seconds. Furthermore, burrs raised by metal to metal impacts can loosen seams in the material 554. Covering the inside of the hollow cylinder 512 with rubber or its equivalent, alleviates this problem. Alternatively, buttons or zippers may be added to the garment after treatment.
  • a second hollow cylinder 514 which is a mirror image of the first hollow cylinder 512, can be attached to intersect and provide common area 563, as shown in FIG. 53.
  • the air supply in each hollow cylinder 512 and 514 is equal, so there is very little transfer of air from one vortex to another without the material 554 present.
  • the material 554 is pressed against the interior of the cylinder 512 by centrifugal force. When the material 554 enters the common area 563, it is no longer coerced by the cylinder wall 512 to cycle in the first vortex.
  • the material 554 continues on a tangent directly into the second vortex of hollow cylinder 514 and then cycles back to the first vortex of hollow cylinder 512 after completing a figure eight pattern. Any rotation in the vortex of hollow cylinder 512 is undone by counter rotation in the vortex of hollow cylinder 514.
  • Each hollow cylinder 512, 514 has a port 560 and 561 respectively, to allow for the escape of excess air, lint or debris.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
EP91309427A 1990-10-12 1991-10-14 Procédé et installation pour la modification de matières textiles par flexion Withdrawn EP0480776A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US596271 1990-10-12
US07/596,271 US5363599A (en) 1990-10-12 1990-10-12 Method and apparatus for modification of texture and appearance of textile fabrics
US74289791A 1991-08-08 1991-08-08
US742897 1991-08-08

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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2489772A2 (fr) * 2009-10-16 2012-08-22 Yong Gun Kim Procédé de prétraitement pour la coloration de fils de polyéthylène de masse moléculaire ultra-élevée
CN102953186A (zh) * 2012-09-27 2013-03-06 杭州翔盛高强纤维材料股份有限公司 一种超高分子量聚乙烯纤维染色装置及其方法
CN105239241A (zh) * 2015-10-23 2016-01-13 安徽博邦超纤皮革有限公司 超细纤维皮绳打磨系统
CN105239242A (zh) * 2015-10-23 2016-01-13 安徽博邦超纤皮革有限公司 绳体柔性打磨机
CN105401294A (zh) * 2015-10-23 2016-03-16 安徽博邦超纤皮革有限公司 绳体柔性三轴打磨装置
CN110485136A (zh) * 2019-08-21 2019-11-22 郑州微思迪服饰有限公司 一种服装面料熨烫机

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110029469A (zh) * 2019-03-07 2019-07-19 浙江载信亚麻科技有限公司 一种亚麻织物柔软整理工艺

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FR2157670A5 (fr) * 1971-10-21 1973-06-01 Huter Jurgen
US4055003A (en) * 1975-08-28 1977-10-25 Johnson & Johnson Method and apparatus for altering the rigidity of webs by oscillation
US4112558A (en) * 1973-10-24 1978-09-12 Christian Donald K Fabric bulking process
EP0010546A1 (fr) * 1978-04-13 1980-05-14 Teijin Limited Methode et appareil de fabrication d'un tissu a poil ayant l'aspect du suede
GB2113260A (en) * 1982-01-12 1983-08-03 Hollandse Signaalapparaten Bv Felting machine
DE3219086A1 (de) * 1982-05-21 1983-12-08 Babcock Textilmaschinen GmbH, 2105 Seevetal Verfahren und vorrichtung zur veredlungsbehandlung von laufenden textilbahnen und dergl.
DE3332338A1 (de) * 1983-09-08 1985-03-28 Johannes Menschner Maschinenfabrik Gmbh & Co Kg, 4060 Viersen Vorrichtung zum veredeln von florware
EP0300611A1 (fr) * 1987-07-17 1989-01-25 Milliken Research Corporation Procédé et installation d'assouplissement des tissus

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2157670A5 (fr) * 1971-10-21 1973-06-01 Huter Jurgen
US4112558A (en) * 1973-10-24 1978-09-12 Christian Donald K Fabric bulking process
US4055003A (en) * 1975-08-28 1977-10-25 Johnson & Johnson Method and apparatus for altering the rigidity of webs by oscillation
EP0010546A1 (fr) * 1978-04-13 1980-05-14 Teijin Limited Methode et appareil de fabrication d'un tissu a poil ayant l'aspect du suede
GB2113260A (en) * 1982-01-12 1983-08-03 Hollandse Signaalapparaten Bv Felting machine
DE3219086A1 (de) * 1982-05-21 1983-12-08 Babcock Textilmaschinen GmbH, 2105 Seevetal Verfahren und vorrichtung zur veredlungsbehandlung von laufenden textilbahnen und dergl.
DE3332338A1 (de) * 1983-09-08 1985-03-28 Johannes Menschner Maschinenfabrik Gmbh & Co Kg, 4060 Viersen Vorrichtung zum veredeln von florware
EP0300611A1 (fr) * 1987-07-17 1989-01-25 Milliken Research Corporation Procédé et installation d'assouplissement des tissus

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2489772A2 (fr) * 2009-10-16 2012-08-22 Yong Gun Kim Procédé de prétraitement pour la coloration de fils de polyéthylène de masse moléculaire ultra-élevée
EP2489772A4 (fr) * 2009-10-16 2013-04-10 Yong Gun Kim Procédé de prétraitement pour la coloration de fils de polyéthylène de masse moléculaire ultra-élevée
CN102953186A (zh) * 2012-09-27 2013-03-06 杭州翔盛高强纤维材料股份有限公司 一种超高分子量聚乙烯纤维染色装置及其方法
CN102953186B (zh) * 2012-09-27 2016-02-17 杭州翔盛高强纤维材料股份有限公司 一种超高分子量聚乙烯纤维染色装置及其方法
CN105239241A (zh) * 2015-10-23 2016-01-13 安徽博邦超纤皮革有限公司 超细纤维皮绳打磨系统
CN105239242A (zh) * 2015-10-23 2016-01-13 安徽博邦超纤皮革有限公司 绳体柔性打磨机
CN105401294A (zh) * 2015-10-23 2016-03-16 安徽博邦超纤皮革有限公司 绳体柔性三轴打磨装置
CN110485136A (zh) * 2019-08-21 2019-11-22 郑州微思迪服饰有限公司 一种服装面料熨烫机

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CA2053375A1 (fr) 1992-04-13

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