EP0437560B1 - Item of jewellery, in particular a watch of changeable appearance - Google Patents

Item of jewellery, in particular a watch of changeable appearance Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0437560B1
EP0437560B1 EP90910514A EP90910514A EP0437560B1 EP 0437560 B1 EP0437560 B1 EP 0437560B1 EP 90910514 A EP90910514 A EP 90910514A EP 90910514 A EP90910514 A EP 90910514A EP 0437560 B1 EP0437560 B1 EP 0437560B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
piece
decoration
support
jewelry according
component
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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EP90910514A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0437560A1 (en
Inventor
Hugues Jolidon
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Be and Joy SA
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Be and Joy SA
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Publication of EP0437560A1 publication Critical patent/EP0437560A1/en
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    • GPHYSICS
    • G04HOROLOGY
    • G04BMECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B47/00Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
    • G04B47/04Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
    • G04B47/046Changeable decorations and parts thereof, decorations for the case which change the external appearance of the clockwork
    • GPHYSICS
    • G04HOROLOGY
    • G04BMECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00Cases
    • G04B37/0008Cases for pocket watches and wrist watches
    • GPHYSICS
    • G04HOROLOGY
    • G04BMECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00Cases
    • G04B37/02Evacuated cases; Cases filled with gas or liquids; Cases containing substances for absorbing or binding moisture or dust
    • GPHYSICS
    • G04HOROLOGY
    • G04BMECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00Cases
    • G04B37/14Suspending devices, supports or stands for time-pieces insofar as they form part of the case
    • G04B37/1486Arrangements for fixing to a bracelet

Definitions

  • This lining could also be a hollow piece of transparent material containing a liquid or gas mass or even a metallic piece, for example having the shape of a torus.
  • the section of this torus could differ from a circle, the lower and inner sides being shaped to adapt to the retaining elements.

Abstract

PCT No. PCT/CH90/00177 Sec. 371 Date Oct. 30, 1990 Sec. 102(e) Date Oct. 30, 1990 PCT Filed Jul. 20, 1990 PCT Pub. No. WO91/02299 PCT Pub. Date Feb. 21, 1991.Annular support 19, provided on its upper side with circular beads 5 and 6, removably supports fitting 20. The latter is formed of a profiled ring 21, of rigid ring 22, and of the piece of fabric 23 which is stretched onto ring 22. The rim of container 24 secures fitting 20 on support 19.

Description

Les pièces d'horlogerie, et plus généralement les pièces de bijouterie, se trouvent aujourd'hui sur le marché sous des présentations variées, mais n'offrent pas à l'utilisateur la possibilité de modifier par la suite cette présentation. En d'autres termes, l'utilisateur, lorsqu'il aura arrêté son choix d'achat sur tel ou tel type de montre-bracelet par exemple, restera toujours "lié" par sa décision. S'il souhaite porter une pièce arborant une présentation véritablement différente, par exemple parce qu'il estime celle-ci mieux adaptée aux goûts du moment, à la mode, à sa tenue vestimentaire ou pour toute autre raison encore, telle que la recherche de combinaisons nouvelles de présentation mettant en oeuvre sa créativité, il devra se résigner à une nouvelle acquisition qui, à son tour, fera à un moment ou à un autre l'objet du même problème.Timepieces, and more generally jewelry pieces, are today on the market in various presentations, but do not offer the user the possibility of subsequently changing this presentation. In other words, the user, when he has made his choice of purchase on this or that type of wristwatch for example, will always remain "bound" by his decision. If he wants to wear a piece with a truly different presentation, for example because he considers it better suited to current tastes, fashion, dress or for any other reason, such as the search for new combinations of presentation using his creativity, he will have to resign himself to a new acquisition which, in turn, will at one time or another be the object of the same problem.

A ce jour, ce genre de problème n'est pas résolu de manière satisfaisante.To date, this kind of problem has not been satisfactorily resolved.

Des pièces d'horlogerie comportant un mouvement logé dans une enceinte du genre container, et un organe annulaire auquel le container est fixé de manière amovible par engagement à pression, sont déjà connues, mais, en général, pour des questions d'encombrement et d'esthétique, l'organe annulaire qui reçoit le container remplit une fonction décorative en même temps que la fonction de support.Timepieces comprising a movement housed in an enclosure of the container type, and an annular member to which the container is removably attached by pressure engagement, are already known, but, in general, for reasons of size and size. 'aesthetic, the annular organ which receives the container fulfills a decorative function at the same time as the support function.

Dans le cas de montres-bracelets, l'organe annulaire de support du container est équipé de moyens de liaison au bracelet. Ces moyens sont relativement encombrants et surtout, de forme dissymétrique, de sorte que l'on ne peut que difficilement concevoir un jeu de pièces comprenant plusieurs supports différents et un seul container, et réaliser ainsi un ensemble pratique et adaptable à volonté.In the case of wristwatches, the annular support member of the container is equipped with means of connection to the bracelet. These means are relatively bulky and above all, of asymmetrical shape, so that it is only difficult to design a set of parts comprising several different supports and a single container, and thus produce a practical and adaptable assembly at will.

On connaît d'autre part des assemblages d'éléments comportant un boîtier de montre-bracelet, un jeu de pièces décoratives échangeables, et/ou un jeu d'éléments de bracelet, de sorte que l'apparence de la montre peut être modifiée à volonté.There are also known assemblies of elements comprising a wristwatch case, a set of exchangeable decorative parts, and / or a set of bracelet elements, so that the appearance of the watch can be modified to will.

Cependant, dans ces assemblages connus, l'hétérogénéité des composants reste visible, de sorte que le but recherché d'une esthétique modifiable mais ayant une valeur unitaire, n'est pas atteint.However, in these known assemblies, the heterogeneity of the components remains visible, so that the desired goal of a modifiable aesthetic but having a unit value, is not achieved.

Ainsi, US-4 757 485 divulgue une montre-bracelet présentant une structure composée d'éléments alternativement males et femelles interchangeables et disposée autour d'une boîte de montre. Tous les éléments sont interconnectés entre eux sur leurs côtés latéraux. De plus, la structure fait intervenir au moins trois éléments différents: un élément auquel est relié le bracelet, et deux éléments intermédiaires, chaque fois mâle ou femelle ou vice-versa. Le côté supérieur des éléments présente un épaulement qui prend place dans celui correspondant formé par la glace et le bord supérieur de la boîte (liaison axiale de la structure dans une direction). Chacun des deux éléments d'attache du bracelet comporte dans sa partie inférieure une projection qui est logée dans une échancrure formée dans la périphérie inférieure de la boîte (liaison axiale dans l'autre direction et en rotation de la structure). Au moins trois inconvénients majeurs sont à relever: la fabrication des éléments pourvus de moyens de liaison latéraux pour l'interconnexion de ces derniers entre eux (chevilles, creusures correspondantes, etc.) est complexe et onéreuse; ensuite, au moins trois éléments différents constituent la base nécessaire de la structure, ce qui limite la souplesse et la variété de présentation; enfin, la fiabilité de la tenue de la structure apparaît médiocre.Thus, US Pat. No. 4,757,485 discloses a wristwatch having a structure composed of alternately male and female elements which are interchangeable and arranged around a watch case. All the elements are interconnected with each other on their lateral sides. In addition, the structure involves at least three different elements: an element to which the bracelet is connected, and two intermediate elements, each male or female or vice versa. The upper side of the elements has a shoulder which takes place in the corresponding one formed by the glass and the upper edge of the box (axial connection of the structure in one direction). Each of the two attachment elements of the bracelet has in its lower part a projection which is housed in a notch formed in the lower periphery of the case (axial connection in the other direction and in rotation of the structure). At least three major drawbacks are to be noted: the manufacture of elements provided with means of lateral connection for the interconnection of the latter between them (dowels, corresponding recesses, etc.) is complex and expensive; then, at least three different elements constitute the necessary base of the structure, which limits the flexibility and the variety of presentation; finally, the reliability of the holding of the structure appears to be poor.

CH-481 416 décrit un dispositif de liaison entré une boîte de montre et un bracelet en tissu métallique, chaque brin de bracelet étant agencé dans une saignée d'une bague. Cette dernière est emprisonnée entre la boîte pourvue d'un rebord supérieur et un fond, celui-ci étant fixé à celle-là par engagement à cran ou par vissage. Ce document, dont le but n'est nullement de décrire des moyens permettant de modifier la présention de la montre par apport d'une garniture décorative échangeable, ne suggère à l'homme du métier connaissant US-4,757,485 aucune technique plus rationnelle de disposition de cette garniture, moins onéreuse sur le plan de la fabrication que ne l'est US-4,757,485 et garantissant en même temps une plus grande souplesse de modification ou présentation. De plus, dans les deux antériorités, le bracelet intervient fonctionnellement, ce qui exclut radicalement cette souplesse et restreint le champ d'application de ces dispositifs connus, en les limitant à une montre-bracelet.CH-481 416 describes a connection device between a watch case and a metallic fabric bracelet, each strand of bracelet being arranged in a groove of a ring. The latter is trapped between the box provided with an upper rim and a bottom, the latter being fixed to the latter by engagement with notch or by screwing. This document, the purpose of which is in no way to describe means making it possible to modify the presentation of the watch by providing an exchangeable decorative trim, does not suggest to the skilled person knowing US-4,757,485 any more rational technique of arrangement of this filling, less expensive in terms of manufacturing than is US-4,757,485 and at the same time guaranteeing greater flexibility of modification or presentation. In addition, in the two prior art, the bracelet intervenes functionally, which radically excludes this flexibility and restricts the field of application of these known devices, by limiting them to a wristwatch.

FR-A-2,377,057 décrit une montre-bracelet comportant une lunette décorative interchangeable montée sur un boîtier par pression, c'est-à-dire par enclenchement élastique, ladite lunette étant pourvue d'au moins un ergot s'engageant dans un trou pratiqué de part en part dans ce boîtier. L'inconvénient majeur de ce dispositif réside dans le fait qu'il n'est pas possible de procéder à des combinaisons de présentation, puisque l'élément-décor est constitué par la lunette même, pièce monolithique. Dans le prolongement de cet inconvénient, l'orientation du décor, donc de la lunette, est imposées par l'agencement des moyens de fixation. Par ailleurs, la lunette devant être nécessairement en plastique, les variations de présentation qu'un choix de matériaux différents permet, sont exclues.FR-A-2,377,057 describes a wristwatch comprising an interchangeable decorative bezel mounted on a housing by pressure, that is to say by elastic engagement, said bezel being provided with at least one lug engaging in a hole made right through in this case. The major drawback of this device lies in the fact that it is not possible to make presentation combinations, since the decorative element is constituted by the bezel itself, a monolithic piece. As an extension of this drawback, the orientation of the decoration, and therefore of the telescope, is imposed by the arrangement of the fixing means. Furthermore, since the bezel must necessarily be made of plastic, variations in presentation that a choice of different materials allows are excluded.

Le but poursuivi dans DE-U-87 06 125 n'est pas de modifier l'aspect de la montre, mais de l'agencer dans un corps monolithique de décor en verre, donc figé et ne permettant aucune variation en soi, ce corps devant être conçu de sorte uniquement à assurer une libération aisée de la boîte de montre pour accéder aux organes de commande et en même temps cacher ces éléments. Là aussi l'homme du métier ne trouve aucune indication susceptible d'élargir les possibilités de présentation de l'objet avec des moyens simples, non onéreux et permutables rapidement et facilement.The goal pursued in DE-U-87 06 125 is not to modify the appearance of the watch, but to arrange it in a monolithic body of glass decoration, therefore fixed and allowing no variation in itself, this body to be designed so as only to ensure easy release of the watch case to access the control members and at the same time hide these elements. Again, those skilled in the art find no indication capable of expanding the possibilities of presenting the object with simple, inexpensive means which can be swapped quickly and easily.

DE-U-86 01 342 propose une pièce d'horlogerie permettant deux sortes de combinaisons quant à sa présentation: une première consiste à combiner une cage (dans laquelle est logé le mouvement) avec différents bracelets, une seconde consiste à combiner un bracelet choisi avec différentes cages. Le bracelet comporte chaque fois une douille solidaire dudit bracelet. La cage, pourvue d'une embase inférieure, est agencée dans un corps de centrage assurant sa liaison en rotation. L'ensemble cage et corps de centrage est fiché dans la douille. Un élément de serrage est vissé sur l'extrémité supérieure de la cage de manière à fixer solidairement l'ensemble sur le bracelet par pincement de celui-ci entre l'embase de la cage et ledit élément de serrage. Pour varier la présentation, l'utilisateur changera l'élément de serrage en placecontre un autre, d'un aspect différent. Cette pièce d'horlogerie nécessite un grand nombre de pièces; sa fabrication est donc relativement onéreuse. Ensuite, le bracelet joue un rôle fonctionnel, ce qui limite son domaine d'application. Le fait de devoir visser (ou fixer par le procédé baïonnette) l'élément de serrage, qui est en même temps l'élément de décor, contre le bracelet, est un autre inconvénient: pour éviter toute perte de l'élément-décor, le couple de serrage doit être assez élevé. Cet élément doit donc être suffisamment solide. Les possibilités esthétiques sont par conséquent plus que limitées, puisque l'emploi de décors fins et délicats est exclu. De plus, si le bracelet est en matière souple, le serrage de l'élément de maintien sur lui conduira tôt ou tard à des dégradations, pour peu que l'on échange un décor contre un autre. Enfin, le décor sera toujours d'une seule pièce à alésage central circulaire. Ainsi, les possibilités de variations du "design" sont des plus réduites.DE-U-86 01 342 proposes a timepiece allowing two kinds of combinations as for its presentation: a first consists in combining a cage (in which the movement is housed) with different bracelets, a second consists in combining a chosen bracelet with different cages. The bracelet each has a socket integral with said bracelet. The cage, provided with a lower base, is arranged in a centering body ensuring its connection in rotation. The cage and centering body assembly is plugged into the socket. A clamping element is screwed onto the upper end of the cage so as to securely fix the assembly to the bracelet by pinching the latter between the base of the cage and said clamping element. To vary the presentation, the user will change the clamping element in place against another, of a different appearance. This timepiece requires a large number of parts; its manufacture is therefore relatively expensive. Then, the bracelet plays a functional role, which limits its field of application. The fact of having to screw (or fix by the bayonet process) the tightening element, which is at the same time the decorative element, against the bracelet, is another drawback: to avoid any loss of the decorative element, the tightening torque must be high enough. This element must therefore be sufficiently solid. The aesthetic possibilities are therefore more than limited, since the use of fine and delicate decorations is excluded. In addition, if the bracelet is made of flexible material, tightening the holding element on it will lead sooner or later to damage, provided that one decoration is exchanged for another. Finally, the decor will always be in one piece with a circular central bore. Thus, the possibilities of variations of the "design" are more reduced.

La présente invention a pour but de permettre à l'utilisateur de varier quasiment à l'infini la présentation de la pièce de bijouterie, notamment d'horlogerie, tant dans ses formes que dans ses couleurs, c'est-à-dire dans ses aspects, sans outillage, tout en remédiant aux lacunes que présente l'art antérieur.The object of the present invention is to allow the user to vary almost infinitely the presentation of the piece of jewelry, in particular timepieces, both in its forms and in its colors, that is to say in its aspects, without tools, while remedying the shortcomings of the prior art.

Dans ce but, la pièce de bijouterie selon l'invention, notamment la pièce d'horlogerie constituant une application privilégiée de celle-ci, présente, selon la variante, les caractéristiques définies dans l'une des revendications indépendantes 1 ou 12, ainsi que, selon des formes particulières d'exécution, celles définies dans les revendications dépendantes correspondantes.For this purpose, the piece of jewelry according to the invention, in particular the timepiece constituting a preferred application thereof, has, depending on the variant, the characteristics defined in one of the independent claims 1 or 12, as well as, according to particular embodiments, those defined in the corresponding dependent claims.

Ces caractéristiques peuvent se concrétiser de différentes et multiples façons, comme on le verra ci-après à travers la description -rapportée en particulier à la première variante- de plusieurs formes d'exécution citées à titre d'exemples de l'objet de l'invention et représentées au dessin annexé, dont

  • la fig. 1 est une vue en coupe axiale éclatée, montrant une première forme d'exécution de la pièce d'horlogerie,
  • la fig. 2 est une vue en plan de dessus de la pièce d'horlogerie de la fig. 1 sans le container,
  • la fig. 3 est une vue en perspective d'un support appartenant à une deuxième forme d'exécution,
  • la fig 3A est une vue en coupe d'un support et d'une garniture selon une troisième forme d'exécution,
  • la fig. 4 est une vue en perspective d'une garniture formée d'un ensemble d'éléments et appartenant à la forme d'exécution de la fig. 3,
  • la fig. 5 est une vue en coupe coaxiale d'un support et d'une garniture appartenant à une quatrième forme d'exécution,
  • la fig. 6 est une vue en perspective d'un container.
  • la fig. 7 est une demi-coupe selon la ligne VII-VII de la fig. 8, d'une seconde variante de l'objet de l'invention,
  • la fig. 8 est une vue de dessus de cette seconde variante,
  • la fig. 9 est une vue de dessous de la bague de retenue,
  • la fig. 10 est une demi-coupe de la bague de retenue, et
  • la fig. 11 est un élément élastique de liaison.
These characteristics can materialize in different and multiple ways, as will be seen below through the description - given in particular to the first variant - of several embodiments cited by way of examples of the subject of the invention and shown in the accompanying drawing, of which
  • fig. 1 is an exploded axial section view showing a first embodiment of the timepiece,
  • fig. 2 is a top plan view of the timepiece of FIG. 1 without the container,
  • fig. 3 is a perspective view of a support belonging to a second embodiment,
  • FIG. 3A is a sectional view of a support and of a lining according to a third embodiment,
  • fig. 4 is a perspective view of a lining formed by a set of elements and belonging to the embodiment of FIG. 3,
  • fig. 5 is a view in coaxial section of a support and of a lining belonging to a fourth embodiment,
  • fig. 6 is a perspective view of a container.
  • fig. 7 is a half-section along the line VII-VII of FIG. 8, of a second variant of the subject of the invention,
  • fig. 8 is a top view of this second variant,
  • fig. 9 is a bottom view of the retaining ring,
  • fig. 10 is a half-section of the retaining ring, and
  • fig. 11 is an elastic connecting element.

Dans l'ensemble représenté à la fig. 1, le container 1 se trouve au-dessus de sa position normale d'engagement dans le support annulaire 2. Ce container 1 se compose, selon la construction traditionnelle, d'un mouvement d'horlogerie, surmonté d'un cadran et engagé dans un boîtier simplifié, de forme cylindrique, fermé par une lunette qui porte une glace. Le container présente un rebord extérieur 3 dont la fonction sera expliquée plus loin. De manière générale, il est entendu que le terme annulaire, dans la présente description et les revendications, n'est pas limité un contour de forme circulaire.Overall, shown in FIG. 1, the container 1 is located above its normal position of engagement in the annular support 2. This container 1 is composed, according to traditional construction, of a clockwork movement, surmounted by a dial and engaged in a simplified, cylindrical case, closed by a bezel which carries a glass. The container has an outer rim 3 whose function will be explained later. In general, it is understood that the annular term, in the present description and the claims, is not limited to a contour of circular shape.

Le support 2 est une pièce métallique ou en matière plastique. Il présente une ouverture centrale cylindrique 4 qui est ajustée au diamètre du container 1. Le côté supérieur du support 2 comporte une structure de soutien formée dans l'ensemble décrit ici, de deux nervures 5 et 6 séparées par une gorge. Cette structure est de préférence circulaire et coaxiale à l'ouverture 4. A la périphérie de la pièce 2 s'étend un épaulement plat qui limite vers le bas sur tout son pourtour la nervure extérieure 5.The support 2 is a metal or plastic part. It has a cylindrical central opening 4 which is adjusted to the diameter of the container 1. The upper side of the support 2 comprises a support structure formed in the assembly described here, of two ribs 5 and 6 separated by a groove. This structure is preferably circular and coaxial with the opening 4. At the periphery of the part 2 extends a flat shoulder which limits down all the way around the outer rib 5.

Sur le côté inférieur du support sont fixés, par exemple par soudage, deux anneaux carrés ou rectangulaires 7 et 8, qui forment des anses pour le passage d'un bracelet souple 29, en cuir, en tissu, en matière plastique, ou d'une autre structure. En lieu et place des anses 7 et 8, on peut imaginer d'autres moyens de retenue permettant la fixation à d'autres types de bracelets, notamment métalliques.On the lower side of the support are fixed, for example by welding, two square or rectangular rings 7 and 8, which form handles for the passage of a flexible bracelet 29, made of leather, fabric, plastic, or another structure. In place of the handles 7 and 8, one can imagine other retaining means allowing attachment to other types of bracelets, in particular metal.

La structure rigide du côté supérieur du support 2 et le rebord 3 du container 1 constituent des moyens de retenue qui, lorsque l'engagement rigide du container 1 dans l'ouverture 4 est réalisé, coopèrent pour fixer sur le pourtour du support 2 une garniture décorative 9 (fig. 2). Celle-ci recouvre et masque le support 2. Elle est amovible, en ce sens qu'en lieu et place d'une garniture donnée, on peut disposer sur le support, selon désir, une autre garniture décorative. En d'autres termes, elle est échangeable, de sorte que la montre décrite peut être commercialisée avec un jeu de différentes garnitures permettant de varier à volonté l'aspect de la montre. Dans la forme d'exécution décrite ici, la garniture 9 est constituée par un ensemble de huit éléments en forme de secteurs de couronne, désignés par 10.The rigid structure on the upper side of the support 2 and the rim 3 of the container 1 constitute retaining means which, when the rigid engagement of the container 1 in the opening 4 is produced, cooperate to fix a lining on the periphery of the support 2 decorative 9 (fig. 2). This covers and conceals the support 2. It is removable, in the sense that instead of a given trim, one can have on the support, as desired, another decorative trim. In other words, it is exchangeable, so that the watch described can be sold with a set of different fittings allowing the appearance of the watch to be varied at will. In the embodiment described here, the lining 9 is constituted by a set of eight elements in the form of crown sectors, designated by 10.

Chaque élément 10 comporte un côté inférieur structuré à l'inverse de la structure nervurée 5,6, de manière à s'emboîter librement mais sans jeu sur elle. En outre, sur leur arête supérieure et interne, les éléments 10 présentent une saignée 11 adaptée au rebord 3. Ainsi les éléments 10 sont immobilisés par le container 1 sans que leurs moyens de fixation soient visibles.Each element 10 has a lower side structured opposite to the ribbed structure 5,6, so as to fit freely but without play on it. In addition, on their upper and internal edge, the elements 10 have a groove 11 adapted to the rim 3. Thus the elements 10 are immobilized by the container 1 without their fixing means being visible.

Au point de vue de l'esthétique de la montre décrite, les éléments 10 permettent d'innombrables variations et des effets qu'il ne serait pas possible d'obtenir autrement. Même dans le cas où l'ensemble des éléments 10 forme une garniture 9 ayant un contour régulier, par exemple circulaire, comme représenté ici, ou ovale, rectangulaire, etc, les éléments voisins peuvent être de métaux ou matériaux différents, ou les reliefs peuvent différer. Il est aussi possible de prévoir des finitions de surface différentes pour des éléments voisins ou selon une certaine séquence; par exemple polis ou brossés, etc.From the point of view of the aesthetics of the watch described, the elements 10 allow innumerable variations and effects which it would not be possible to obtain otherwise. Even in the case where all of the elements 10 form a lining 9 having a regular outline, for example circular, as shown here, or oval, rectangular, etc., the neighboring elements may be of different metals or materials, or the reliefs may to differ. It is also possible to provide different surface finishes for neighboring elements or in a certain sequence; for example polished or brushed, etc.

Les fig. 3 et 3A montrent une autre forme d'exécution en ce qui concerne les moyens de retenue. Un support 12 (Fig. 3) présente une ouverture centrale qui est limitée par une partie tubulaire proéminente 13. Celle-ci s'élève à partir d'un épaulement plat dans lequel sont plantées des chevilles équidistantes 14. Les moyens de liaison du support 12 à un bracelet sont formés ici par quatre éléments d'anses 15 qui se rejoignent sous le support et sont fixés chacun à un point de la périphérie extérieure du support. Dans la fig 3A, le support 31 présente des éléments de retenue 32 sur sa face latérale extérieure 33. La garniture décorative 34 possède une face intérieure qui coopère avec la face 33, de manière à lier radialement ladite garniture. La partie supérieure de la garniture 34 présente une gorge 35 qui coopère avec le container 36, afin de lier axialement la garniture.Figs. 3 and 3A show another embodiment with regard to the retaining means. A support 12 (Fig. 3) has a central opening which is limited by a prominent tubular part 13. This rises from a flat shoulder in which equidistant dowels are planted 14. The means of connection of the support 12 to a bracelet are formed here by four elements of handles 15 which join under the support and are each fixed at a point on the outer periphery of the support. In FIG. 3A, the support 31 has retaining elements 32 on its external lateral face 33. The decorative lining 34 has an internal face which cooperates with the face 33, so as to radially link said lining. The upper part of the lining 34 has a groove 35 which cooperates with the container 36, in order to axially link the lining.

La garniture décorative 16 (fig. 4) correspondant au support 12 est composée d'éléments 18 semblables aux éléments 10 mais dont le côté inférieur est plat ou comporte un rebord extérieur, et présente un trou borgne 17 s'engageant à friction sur les chevilles 14. Là également le rebord du container s'engage dans une saignée 30 prévue dans la partie de l'élément qui recouvre le sommet du manchon 13.The decorative trim 16 (fig. 4) corresponding to the support 12 is composed of elements 18 similar to the elements 10 but whose lower side is flat or has an outer rim, and has a blind hole 17 engaging frictionally on the ankles 14. Again the edge of the container engages in a groove 30 provided in the part of the element which covers the top of the sleeve 13.

La figure 4 illustre une réalisation possible de la garniture 16. Les éléments 18 pourront être en matière plastique de manière que l'engagement à friction sur les chevilles 14 soit résistant, sans offrir de difficulté de mise en place. Les chevilles et les trous correspondants pourraient aussi être en forme de champignons, ou de queues d'aigles. Ils pourraient être ménagés sur la face latérale externe du manchon 13.Figure 4 illustrates a possible embodiment of the lining 16. The elements 18 may be made of plastic so that the friction engagement on the pins 14 is resistant, without offering any difficulty in positioning. The pegs and corresponding holes could also be mushroom-shaped, or eagle tails. They could be provided on the external lateral face of the sleeve 13.

D'autres dispositions encore peuvent être imaginées. Il ressort de la fig. 4 que les éléments 18 donnent à la garniture un contour convexe, pouvant différer d'un cercle. Mais ce contour pourrait également être dentelé, en forme de pétales de fleur, ondulé, etc. Ici aussi, le nombre des allures différentes qui peuvent être imaginées est très grand. Avec quelques jeux d'éléments différents, l'utilisateur dispose d'une variété de possibilités qui est quasi-illimitée.Still other arrangements can be imagined. It appears from fig. 4 that the elements 18 give the lining a convex outline, which may differ from a circle. But this outline could also be serrated, in the shape of flower petals, wavy, etc. Here too, the number of different gaits that can be imagined is very large. With a few different sets of elements, the user has a variety of possibilities which is almost limitless.

La structure de retenue qui caractérise le support n'est pas nécessairement destinée à recevoir une garniture faite d'éléments différents, placés côte à côte sur le support.The retaining structure which characterizes the support is not necessarily intended to receive a lining made of different elements, placed side by side on the support.

Ainsi la fig. 5 montre une forme d'exécution dans laquelle un support 19, qui pourrait d'ailleurs avoir la même conformation que le support 2, supporte une garniture décorative 20 dont les moyens de fixation sont invisibles et qui masque le support, et qui est interchangeable. La garniture 20 est constituée d'un ensemble de composants annulaires assemblés en un seul bloc. Un de ces composants est un anneau rigide 21 qui présente une conformation de son côté inférieur ajustée aux éléments de retenue du support et une conformation de son côté supérieur apte à fixer par pression le reste des composants.Thus fig. 5 shows an embodiment in which a support 19, which could moreover have the same conformation as the support 2, supports a decorative trim 20 whose fixing means are invisible and which masks the support, and which is interchangeable. The lining 20 consists of a set of annular components assembled in a single block. One of these components is a rigid ring 21 which has a conformation on its lower side adjusted to the retaining elements of the support and a conformation on its upper side suitable for fixing by pressure. the rest of the components.

Ceux-ci comportent une bague rigide 22 ayant une surface extérieure arrondie et sur laquelle est tendue une pièce de tissu 23 dont les bords peuvent être cousus ou collés ensemble au revers de la bague 22. Le côté inférieur de la bague 22 a une forme concave, sur laquelle la pièce de tissu 23 est tendue de sorte que l'engagement de l'ensemble 22, 23 sur l'anneau 21 assure la tension du tissu.These comprise a rigid ring 22 having a rounded outer surface and on which is stretched a piece of fabric 23 whose edges can be sewn or glued together to the reverse of the ring 22. The lower side of the ring 22 has a concave shape , on which the piece of fabric 23 is stretched so that the engagement of the assembly 22, 23 on the ring 21 ensures the tension of the fabric.

Selon une forme d'exécution non représentée, la face supérieure et la face latérale du support 19 coopèrent avec une garniture composée d'éléments superposés coaxiaux annulaires. Ces éléments peuvent, dans une forme d'exécution non représentée, être de plus emboîtés l'un dans l'autre chaque fois.According to an embodiment not shown, the upper face and the lateral face of the support 19 cooperate with a lining composed of superimposed annular coaxial elements. These elements can, in an embodiment not shown, be further fitted into each other each time.

On voit par ces exemples les multiples possibilités de conformation de la garniture permises par l'invention. Cette garniture pourrait aussi être une pièce creuse en matière transparente contenant une masse liquide ou de gaz ou même une pièce métallique, ayant par exemple la forme d'un tore. La section de ce tore pourrait différer d'un cercle, les côtés inférieur et intérieur étant conformés pour s'adapter aux éléments de retenue.These examples show the multiple possibilities of conformation of the lining allowed by the invention. This lining could also be a hollow piece of transparent material containing a liquid or gas mass or even a metallic piece, for example having the shape of a torus. The section of this torus could differ from a circle, the lower and inner sides being shaped to adapt to the retaining elements.

Le container est visible à nouveau aux fig. 5 et 6. Il diffère du container 1 en ce qu'une bande périphérique de blocage 25, montée dans sa face latérale cylindrique, se trouve immédiatement sous le rebord 26 et non pas au voisinage du bord inférieur comme la fig. 1. Cette différence est conditionnée par la solution apportée au problème de la couronne. En général, la présence d'une couronne permettant la mise à l'heure et, le cas échéant l'ajustage du calendrier est nécessaire. Une possibilité pour cela est de prévoir, de préférence dans tous les éléments de la garniture décorative, un logement dans sa face interne. La couronne du container, qui est normalement saillante dans la face cylindrique de ce composant est engagée dans le logement de la garniture de sorte que le container et l'élément de garniture pourvu du logement sont mis en place simultanément.The container is again visible in Figs. 5 and 6. It differs from the container 1 in that a peripheral blocking strip 25, mounted in its cylindrical lateral face, is located immediately under the rim 26 and not in the vicinity of the lower edge as in FIG. 1. This difference is conditioned by the solution to the problem of the crown. In general, the presence of a crown allowing the setting of the time and, if necessary, the adjustment of the calendar is necessary. One possibility for this is to plan, preferably in all the elements of the decorative trim, a housing in its internal face. The crown of the container, which is normally projecting in the cylindrical face of this component, is engaged in the housing of the lining so that the container and the lining element provided with the housing are put in place simultaneously.

Toutefois, on peut aussi prévoir dans une creusure 27 ménagée dans la face latérale du container, une plaquette 28 sertie sur un segment de tube dont la partie est rabattue à l'intérieur de la paroi du container, et qui est chassé sur la tige de commande. Comme on le voit aux figures 5 et 6, la plaquette 28 peut présenter des échancrures 28a permettant de la manoeuvrer au moyen d'une brucelle.However, one can also provide in a recess 27 formed in the lateral face of the container, a plate 28 set on a segment of tube, the part of which is folded back inside the wall of the container, and which is driven onto the rod of ordered. As seen in Figures 5 and 6, the plate 28 may have notches 28a allowing it to be maneuvered by means of a tweezer.

Dans une seconde variante 39, représentée aux fig. 7 à 11, le support 41 de la garniture décorative 40 remplit en même temps la fonction de carrure ou fausse-carrure. Le côté extérieur de la carrure est pourvu d'éléments de retenue 43 coopérant avec le côté intérieur de la garniture 40. La fixation radiale de la garniture est obtenue grâce à une bague 42 fixée sur la carrure ou fausse-carrure par exemple selon le procédé connu d'une lunette tournante de montre de plongée (Fig. 7 et 8).In a second variant 39, shown in FIGS. 7 to 11, the support 41 of the decorative trim 40 simultaneously fulfills the function of middle or false middle. The outer side of the middle part is provided with retaining elements 43 cooperating with the inner side of the lining 40. The radial fixing of the lining is obtained by means of a ring 42 fixed to the middle part or false middle part, for example according to the method known from a rotating diving watch bezel (Fig. 7 and 8).

Dans les fig. 9 et 10, on aperçoit des fentes 44 ménagées sous la bague 42, permettant le montage et le démontage des éléments de décoration 45 constituant la garniture 40, lesquels éléments peuvent être identiques, quant à leur forme externe, aux éléments 10 ou 18 par exemple.In fig. 9 and 10, we see slots 44 formed under the ring 42, allowing the mounting and dismounting of the decorative elements 45 constituting the lining 40, which elements may be identical, as regards their external shape, to the elements 10 or 18 for example .

La figure 11 représente un élément élastique 46 de fixation de la bague 42 à la carrure ou fausse-carrure, c'est-à-dire au support 41.FIG. 11 shows an elastic element 46 for fixing the ring 42 to the middle part or false middle part, that is to say to the support 41.

Toutes les caractéristiques et spécifications, quant aux moyens permettant la présentation modifiable de la pièce de bijouterie ou d'horlogerie et décrites sous la première variante peuvent à l'évidence être reprises et appliquées de manière identique ou analogue pour cette deuxième variante. Ces caractéristiques et spécifications ne sont donc pas décrites une nouvelle fois.All the characteristics and specifications, as for the means allowing the modifiable presentation of the piece of jewelry or timepiece and described under the first variant can obviously be taken up and applied in an identical or analogous manner for this second variant. These characteristics and specifications are therefore not described again.

Bien entendu, lorsque l'objet selon l'invention est une pièce de bijouterie, telle que pendentif, boucles d'oreilles, etc, on prévoiera, en lieu et place des anses de bracelet, un ou des dispositifs d'attache appropriés connus. Il est clair que le mouvement est alors remplacé par un élément central fixe de décoration.Of course, when the object according to the invention is a piece of jewelry, such as a pendant, earrings, etc., provision will be made, in place of the bracelet handles, for one or more known suitable fastening devices. It is clear that the movement is then replaced by a fixed central element of decoration.

La pièce de bijouterie selon l'invention, notamment d'horlogerie, en plus du fait de pouvoir être présentée sous des aspects différents, permet à l'utilisateur la mise en oeuvre de ses capacités créatives personnelles, grâce aux combinaisons multiples rendues possibles par ladite pièce.The piece of jewelry according to the invention, in particular of timepieces, in addition to being able to be presented in different aspects, allows the user to use his personal creative capacities, thanks to the multiple combinations made possible by said room.

Claims (22)

  1. Piece of jewelry, comprising a fixed central element and an annular member which is in the form of a support and is provided with fixed retaining elements on at least one of its external sides, a removable decoration having at least one side which cooperates with said retaining elements and conceals at least one of the external sides of said support,
       characterised in that
    - said central element is accommodated in an enclosure of the container type,
    - said container has a lateral surface which is adjusted to an opening of said support and is capable of being removably fitted therein by pressure engagement, as well as an upper rim for the purpose of retaining said decoration in such a manner that it is fixed to said support,
    - said decoration may indifferently be composed of one or a plurality of mutually independent elements, and in that
    - the orientation of the placement of each element with respect to said support is arbitrary.
  2. Piece of jewelry according to claim 1, characterised in that said decoration is formed of a set of rigid elements in the form of crown sectors which are disposed side by side adjoiningly and are engaged on said retaining elements.
  3. Piece of jewelry according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that said decoration forms an annular block and comprises on its cirumference several connecting areas, one of which is adapted to the rim of said container in such a manner as to be fastened by said rim, and another one or the others being adapted to the retaining elements of said support.
  4. Piece of jewelry according to claim 1, characterised in that said decoration is an assembly of several annular components which are assembled to form a block, one of said components being a rigid ring having an internal profile which is adjusted to the retaining elements of said support, and one or several other components being made of non-rigid materials.
  5. Piece of jewelry according to claim 4, characterised in that said decoration comprises a piece of fabric which is stretched on a rigid annular component, said component itself being fixed to said rigid ring.
  6. Piece of jewelry according to claim 1, characterised in that said decoration is constituted of an assembly of several superposed annular components, the uppermost component having a connecting area which is adapted to the rim of said container in such a manner as to be fastened by said rim, and the other components having each at least one surface which is adjusted to the retaining elements of said support.
  7. Piece of jewelry according to claim 1, characterised in that said decoration is constituted of an assembly of several encased annular components, the uppermost component having a connecting area which is adapted to the rim of said container in such a manner as to be fastened by said rim, and the lowermost component having a surface which is adjusted to the retaining elements of said support.
  8. Piece of jewelry according to claim 1 or 4, characterised in that said decoration comprises a component which is formed of a liquid or gaseous mass or of metal, said component occupying an annular space which is limited by another component, the latter being at least partially transparent.
  9. Piece of jewelry according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterised in that said central element which is accommodated in said enclosure of the container type is a piece of decoration.
  10. Piece of jewelry according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterised in that it constitutes a timepiece, the central element which is accommodated in said container being a watch movement.
  11. Piece of jewelry according to claim 10, characterised in that it is in the form of a wristwatch, and in that said support comprises connecting means for a bracelet which are covered by said decoration.
  12. Piece of jewelry, comprising a central element which is accommodated in a supporting member provided with rigid retaining elements on at least one of its external sides, an exchangeable decoration having at least one side which cooperates with said retaining elements and which conceals at least one of the external sides of said support,
       characterised in that
    - said supporting member is of the casing middle or the false middle type,
    - said decoration is axially maintained by a ring which cooperates with said support,
    - said decoration may indifferently be composed of one or of a plurality of mutually independent elements, and in that
    - the orientation of the placement of each element with respect to said support is arbitrary.
  13. Piece of jewelry according to claim 12, characterised in that said decoration is formed of a set of rigid elements in the form of crown sectors which are disposed side by side adjoiningly and are engaged on said retaining elements.
  14. Piece of jewelry according to claim 13, characterised in that said decoration forms an annular block and comprises on its cirumference several connecting areas, one of which is adapted to the rim of said container, and another one or the others being adapted to the retaining elements of said support.
  15. Piece of jewelry according to claim 12, characterised in that said decoration is an assembly of several annular components which are assembled to form a block, one of said components being a rigid ring having an internal profile which is adjusted to the retaining elements of said support, and one or several other components being made of non-rigid materials.
  16. Piece of jewelry according to claim 15, characterised in that said decoration comprises a piece of fabric which is stretched on a rigid annular component, said component itself being fixed to said rigid ring.
  17. Piece of jewelry according to claim 12, characterised in that said decoration is constituted of a set of several superposed annular components, the uppermost component having a connecting area which is adapted to the rim of said container in such a manner as to be fastened by said rim, and the other components having each at least one surface which is adjusted to the retaining elements of said support.
  18. Piece of jewelry according to claim 12, characterised in that said decoration is constituted of an assembly of several encased annular components, the uppermost component having a connecting area which is adapted to the rim of said container in such a manner as to be fastened by said rim, and the lowermost component having a surface which is adjusted to the retaining elements of said support.
  19. Piece of jewelry according to claim 15, characterised in that said decoration comprises a component which is formed of a liquid or gaseous mass or of metal, said component occupying an annular space which is limited by another component, the latter being at least partially transparent.
  20. Piece of jewelry according to any one of claims 12 to 19, characterised in that said central element which is accommodated in said casing middle or false middle is a piece of decoration.
  21. Piece of jewelry according to any one of claims 12 to 20, characterised in that it constitutes a timepiece, the central element which is accommodated in said casing middle or false middle being a watch movement.
  22. Piece of jewelry according to claim 21, characterised in that it is in the form of a wristwatch, said support comprising connecting means for a bracelet which are concealed by said decoration.
EP90910514A 1989-08-07 1990-07-20 Item of jewellery, in particular a watch of changeable appearance Expired - Lifetime EP0437560B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH2899/89A CH681412B5 (en) 1989-08-07 1989-08-07 Piece of jewelry, such changeable presentation to watch.
CH2899/89 1989-08-07
PCT/CH1990/000177 WO1991002299A1 (en) 1989-08-07 1990-07-20 Item of jewellery, in particular a watch of changeable appearance

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0437560A1 EP0437560A1 (en) 1991-07-24
EP0437560B1 true EP0437560B1 (en) 1996-10-30

Family

ID=4244120

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP90910514A Expired - Lifetime EP0437560B1 (en) 1989-08-07 1990-07-20 Item of jewellery, in particular a watch of changeable appearance

Country Status (8)

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US (1) US5319616A (en)
EP (1) EP0437560B1 (en)
JP (1) JPH04500859A (en)
AT (1) ATE144844T1 (en)
AU (1) AU5967690A (en)
CH (1) CH681412B5 (en)
DE (1) DE69029031D1 (en)
WO (1) WO1991002299A1 (en)

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DE60208747D1 (en) * 2002-10-09 2006-04-06 Richemont Int Sa Presentation device and method for visualization of a watch case to be produced
US20040174776A1 (en) * 2003-03-06 2004-09-09 Yang Chung Chien Time box
EP1465025A1 (en) * 2003-04-02 2004-10-06 Milus International SA Wristwatch and piece of jewelry
EP1975747B1 (en) * 2007-03-29 2015-08-05 Richemont International S.A. watch case
US8096702B2 (en) * 2009-05-28 2012-01-17 The Avalanche Group, Llc Ornament container for watch
ITMC20090043U1 (en) 2009-07-16 2011-01-17 Squan Di Durpetti Silvia & C Sas DECORATIVE CANOPY REPLACEABLE FOR WATCHES WITH DIGITAL DISPLAY.
CN102576213A (en) * 2010-06-21 2012-07-11 王冠国际资产公司 System and method for easy change jewelry case cover
CH708815B1 (en) * 2013-11-06 2017-12-29 The Swatch Group Man Services Ag Cladding element for a middle part of a wristwatch.
CH712603A1 (en) * 2016-06-24 2017-12-29 Braga C/O Julien Hauet Marcio Watch case comprising a set of shaped pieces.

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH04500859A (en) 1992-02-13
WO1991002299A1 (en) 1991-02-21
US5319616A (en) 1994-06-07
EP0437560A1 (en) 1991-07-24
CH681412B5 (en) 1993-09-30
ATE144844T1 (en) 1996-11-15
DE69029031D1 (en) 1996-12-05
AU5967690A (en) 1991-03-11
CH681412GA3 (en) 1993-03-31

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