EP0403336B1 - Zusammensetzung für die nichtfilzende Behandlung von Wolle und Verfahren für die Veredelung - Google Patents

Zusammensetzung für die nichtfilzende Behandlung von Wolle und Verfahren für die Veredelung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0403336B1
EP0403336B1 EP90401561A EP90401561A EP0403336B1 EP 0403336 B1 EP0403336 B1 EP 0403336B1 EP 90401561 A EP90401561 A EP 90401561A EP 90401561 A EP90401561 A EP 90401561A EP 0403336 B1 EP0403336 B1 EP 0403336B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
microparticles
units
weight
wool
methacrylate
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP90401561A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP0403336A1 (de
Inventor
Dirk Mestach
Eric Goethals
Marc Van Parijs
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Carbonisation et Charbons Actifs CECA SA
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Carbonisation et Charbons Actifs CECA SA
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/356—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of other unsaturated compounds containing nitrogen, sulfur, silicon or phosphorus atoms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
    • D06M23/12—Processes in which the treating agent is incorporated in microcapsules

Definitions

  • the subject of the invention is a composition for the anti-felting treatment of wool.
  • Woolen articles can undergo irreversible shrinkage caused by felting during successive wet processes such as washing or dyeing, during use or during maintenance operations. This shrinkage is due to the very nature of the fibers that make up wool. These keratin-based fibers are in fact composed of a multitude of scales which, during repeated mechanical operations, are caused to overlap. A frictional force then appears between the scales of the fibers which has the effect of reducing the dimensions of the finished article.
  • All industrial wool anti-felting treatment processes are based on means making it possible to reduce the friction forces. Some of these treatments are based on the degradation of the scales of the fibers constituting the wool, generally by the action of oxidizing means.
  • oxidizing means are chlorine, in the form of gas or hypochloric acid, and the sodium salt of dichlorocyanuric acid.
  • These polymers must have a certain number of qualities and in particular they must have a resistance to washing, to drying and a permanence when the simple use of the fiber on which they are applied (resistance to friction, to sweat, to light ). They must, moreover, not alter the intrinsic quality of the wool during their application.
  • the main disadvantage of many commercial products is to make the wool on which they are applied rough: the fiber becomes hard and difficult to wear. This phenomenon is due to the high glass transition temperature of the polymer. In order to obtain a compromise between the anti-felting qualities and the softness of the wool, the polymer must have a relatively low glass transition temperature. The polymer must also be able to completely cover the fiber. Consequently, the surface of the fiber must be completely wetted by the composition containing the polymer.
  • the composition containing the polymer must have a sufficiently low surface tension to achieve this aim.
  • the composition used must have a flexibility of use allowing a continuous or discontinuous treatment to be carried out on combed wool ribbons, fabrics or even knitwear.
  • it must be able to be used at a concentration of active product making it possible to limit the cost of the operation.
  • the prior art wool anti-felting compositions do not simultaneously exhibit these different properties.
  • the invention thus relates to a composition for the anti-felting treatment of wool comprising on the one hand between 5 and 20% by weight of microparticles constituted by a copolymer of acrylic and / or methacrylic monomer units, and on the other hand between 80 and 95% water with stabilizers added, in which the microparticles have a surface consisting of a copolymer containing a high proportion by weight of N-alkylazetidinyl acrylate units and / or N-alkylazetidinyl methacrylate units, the interior said microparticles consisting of a copolymer containing a small proportion by weight of N-alkylazetidinyl acrylate units and / or N-alkylazetidinyl methacrylate units.
  • the surface of the microparticles is formed by a copolymer containing a high proportion by weight of N-cyclohexylazetidinyl methacrylate units (I), the interior of the microparticles consisting of a copolymer containing a small proportion by weight of N-cyclohexylazetidinyl methacrylate units.
  • the microparticles consist of N-cyclohexylazetidine methacrylate units and acrylic or methacrylic monomer units chosen from the group consisting of methyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, acrylonitrile.
  • An advantageous variant of the invention consists in using a composition in which the microparticles consist of a terpolymer of N-cyclohexylazetidinyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.
  • microparticles for the anti-felting treatment of wool according to the invention can be in different forms.
  • the microparticles have a gradient structure: the concentration of N-cyclohexylazetidinyl methacrylate units in the copolymer constituting the microparticles decreases from the surface towards the center of the microparticles.
  • the microparticles can also have a "core-shell” structure, a structure making it possible to distinguish at least two layers of copolymer having a different composition: a first layer located on the surface called “shell” and consisting of a copolymer containing a high proportion by weight of N-alkylazetidinyl methacrylate units and / or N-alkylazetidinyl acrylate units and at least one second layer called "core” consisting of a copolymer containing a low proportion by weight of methacrylate units of N-alkylazetidinyl and / or of N-alkylazetidinyl acrylate units.
  • composition according to the invention having microparticles consisting of a shell containing between 50 and 95% by weight, preferably between 85 and 95% by weight N-alkylazetidinyl methacrylate and / or N-alkylazetidinyl acrylate units and a "core" containing between 5 and 50%, preferably between 10 and 20% of N-alkylazetidinyl methacrylate units and / or N acrylate -alkylazetidinyl, the percentage by overall weight of the microparticles in units of N-alkylazetidinyl being from 10 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30%.
  • the crosslinkable composition for the anti-felting treatment of wool according to the invention can be produced according to a synthetic route known from the state of the art such as emulsion polymerization or any other method allowing the formation of microparticles. It offers numerous technical advantages and makes it possible to carry out continuous and discontinuous treatment of the wool so as to make it non-shrink.
  • This composition can be used so as to use a low concentration of active product (approximately 0.5% to 1% of dry product relative to the weight of wool treated against 1 to 2% for the products of the state of technical) and thus has a very interesting economic character for its industrial application. It preserves the intrinsic qualities of wool, which while acquiring qualities of infertility, retains its natural appearance.
  • composition can be applied to wool according to gentle methods lowering the energy costs. It can be applied to many types of wool: raw, woven, knitted, finished or not, etc. It also has great application flexibility allowing it to be used at any stage of a finishing process after the classic chlorination stage. During the anti-felting treatment with the composition according to the invention, the use of a softener is no longer essential.
  • the invention also relates to a process for finishing wool comprising an anti-felting treatment phase using the above compositions, which can be combined with great flexibility with the conventional dyeing and chlorination phases. It is possible to carry out the anti-felting treatment before, after or partially before and partially after the dyeing step provided that the conventional pre-chlorination step has already been performed.
  • the invention will be more easily understood thanks to the nonlimiting exemplary embodiment which follows.
  • the example describes the production of an anti-felt composition containing microparticles having a "core-shell" structure in several layers and consisting of a terpolymer "N-cyclohexylazetidinyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate” and shows a use of this composition during an anti-felting process.
  • the composition has the great advantage of not being reactive at room temperature and of having a long pot life.
  • Mixtures 1, 2 and 3 are prepared according to the following table:
  • This synthesis makes it possible to obtain a latex of structured microparticles having a shell corresponding to the polymerization of mixture III and a core consisting of two layers: a first central layer obtained by polymerization of mixture I, a second layer obtained by polymerization of mixture II.
  • the bark is polymerized in the same way using the mixture of monomers III. Throughout the polymerization, stirring is maintained at 25 revolutions per minute and a stream of nitrogen sweeps through the top of the reactor. At the end of the bark polymerization, the latex is slowly cooled to room temperature.
  • a first part of the composition is used during a continuous process of anti-felting treatment of wool and a second part during a discontinuous process.
  • the anti-felting treatment process used is a conventional continuous industrial process.
  • the wool arrives in the form of a ribbon to a trowel composed of a succession of trays containing the different solutions necessary for the treatment.
  • the wool ribbon is successively dipped into each of these trays.
  • the first stage is a classic chlorination stage. This step makes it possible to increase the surface tension of the wool to improve the adhesion and the distribution of polymer on the fibers by incorporation of RSO3H and RCOOH groups.
  • This pre-chlorination is carried out by soaking the wool in a bath of NaOCl, sulfuric acid and wetting agent at a pH of 1.5 to 2.0 and at a temperature of 15 to 20 ° C.
  • the wool is then rinsed at a temperature of 20 to 30 ° C in order to remove the reaction products from the pre-chlorination step.
  • the next step is to dechlorinate the wool.
  • This dechlorination is carried out at a pH of 8.5 to 9.5 and at a temperature of 20 to 35 ° C using a solution of sodium bisulfite. This operation improves the anti-felting effect and lightens the wool.
  • the wool is then rinsed at 20-35 ° C and then treated with the anti-felting composition obtained in paragraph 2, at a rate of 0.5 to 1% by weight of active material relative to the weight of the treated wool.
  • the temperature is maintained between 20 and 30 ° C and the pH is brought to a value between 4 and 5 by addition of acid, for example acetic acid, to the composition.
  • the wool is then dried at 60-80 ° C for about 10 minutes. It is during this last stage that the crosslinking of the azetidine groups on the fibers takes place.
  • the discontinuous process used is a diving and exhaustion process.
  • the wool is again rinsed for 10 minutes in the cold, then treated at room temperature with a solution containing 0.5 to 1% by weight of the composition obtained in paragraph A.2, the pH of the solution being fixed between 4 and 5 by addition of acetic acid, and finally dried as above at 60-80 ° C for about 10 minutes.
  • the AFS Ana Felting Shrinkage shrinkage rate was measured, according to test method No. 31 extracted from the International Wool Standart, after several washes of the treated wool. The results obtained were compared with the results obtained with batches of wool treated according to an identical process using a polymer product of adipic acid-diethylenetriamine-epichlorohydrin of the state of the art, Hercosett ® 125 (Hercules). The results are given in the following table.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Chemical And Physical Treatments For Wood And The Like (AREA)
  • Building Environments (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Sludge (AREA)
  • Paints Or Removers (AREA)
  • Cleaning Implements For Floors, Carpets, Furniture, Walls, And The Like (AREA)
  • Solid-Sorbent Or Filter-Aiding Compositions (AREA)

Claims (9)

  1. Vernetzungsfähige Mischung zur Antifilzausrüstung von Wolle, bestehend zum einen aus 5 bis 20 Gew.% Mikroteilchen, die aus einem Copolymer von Methacryl- und/oder Acrylmonomereneinheiten aufgebaut sind, und zum anderen aus 80 bis 95 Gew.% mit Stabilisatoren versetztem Wasser, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die genannten Mikroteilchen eine Oberfläche aufweisen, die aus einem Copolymer aufgebaut ist, das einen hohen Anteil an N-Alkylazetidinylacryleinheiten und/ oder N-Alkylazetidinylmethacryleinheiten besitzt, wobei das Innere der genannten Mikroteilchen aus einem Copolymeren, das einen geringen Gewichtsanteil an Einheiten aus N-Alkylazetidinylacrylat und/oder Einheiten aus N-Alkylazetidinylmethacrylat besitzt, besteht.
  2. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Oberfläche der Mikroteilchen aus einem Copolymeren aufgebaut ist, das einen hohen Anteil an Einheiten aus N-Cyclohexylazetidinylacrylat aufweist, wobei der übrige Teil der genannten Mikroteilchen aus einem Copolymeren gebildet wird, der einen geringen Anteil an N-Cyclohexylazetidinylmethacryleinheiten besitzt.
  3. Zusammensetzung nach den Ansprüchen 1 und 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Mikroteilchen aus Einheiten von N-Cyclohexylazetidinylmethacrylat und Einheiten von Monomeren Acryl- oder Methacrylat aufgebaut sind, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe von Methylmethacrylat, 2-Ethylhexylacrylat, Butylacrylat, Butylmethacrylat, Ethylacrylat, Acrylnitril.
  4. Zusammensetztung nach Anspruch 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Mikroteilchen aus einem Terpolymeren von N-Cyclohexylazetidinylmethacrylat, Methylmethacrylat und 2-Ethylhexylacrylat aufgebaut sind.
  5. Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Mikroteilchen eine Kern-Hüllen-Struktur aufweisen, die aus verschiedenen Polymerlagen aufgebaut sind.
  6. Zusammensetzung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Mikroteilchen eine Gradientenstruktur aufweisen.
  7. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Mikroteilchen aus einer Hülle aufgebaut sind, die 50 bis 95 Gew.% an Einheiten aus N-Cyclohexylazetidinylmethacrylat und/oder aus N-Cyclohexylazetidinylacrylat enthält, wobei der Gesamtgewichtsprozentsatz der Einheiten aus N-Cyclohexylazetidin zwischen 10 bis 50 % liegt.
  8. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Mikroteilchen aus einer Hülle aufgebaut sind, die 85 bis 95 Gew.% N-Cyclohexylazetidinylmethacrylateinheiten enthält und aus einem Kern besteht, der aus einem Copolymeren gebildet wird, das 10 bis 20 Gew.% an Einheiten aus N-Alkylazetidinylmethacrylat enthält, wobei der Gesamtgewichtsprozentsatz des N-Alkylazetidinylmethacrylats zwischen 20 bis 30 % liegt.
  9. Verfahren zur Veredelung von Wolle, bestehend aus einer unbestimmten Folge von Verfahrensstufen der Vorchlorierung, der Färbung und der Antifilzausrüstung, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Antifilzausrüstung aus dem Eintauchen der Wolle in eine Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8 und ihre Trocknung bei Temperaturen von 60 bis 80°C besteht, wobei die Zusammensetzung zur Antifilzausrüstung in einem auf die Wolle bezogenen Anteil von 0,5 bis 1 Gew.% Mikroteilchen eingesetzt wird.
EP90401561A 1989-06-16 1990-06-08 Zusammensetzung für die nichtfilzende Behandlung von Wolle und Verfahren für die Veredelung Expired - Lifetime EP0403336B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8907971 1989-06-16
FR8907971A FR2648486B1 (fr) 1989-06-16 1989-06-16 Composition pour le traitement antifeutrant de la laine

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0403336A1 EP0403336A1 (de) 1990-12-19
EP0403336B1 true EP0403336B1 (de) 1994-01-19

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EP90401561A Expired - Lifetime EP0403336B1 (de) 1989-06-16 1990-06-08 Zusammensetzung für die nichtfilzende Behandlung von Wolle und Verfahren für die Veredelung

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EP (1) EP0403336B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE100507T1 (de)
AU (1) AU626122B2 (de)
DE (1) DE69006109T2 (de)
DK (1) DK0403336T3 (de)
ES (1) ES2062441T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2648486B1 (de)
NZ (1) NZ234114A (de)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0884050A1 (de) 1995-09-08 1998-12-16 Novo Nordisk A/S Verwendung von 3,4-dihydroxy-2-hydroxymethylpyrrolidin zur behandlung von diabetes
GB0201165D0 (en) * 2002-01-18 2002-03-06 Unilever Plc Azetidinium modidfied poymers and fabric treatment composition

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE234083C (de) *
DE2342083A1 (de) * 1973-08-21 1975-04-24 Basf Ag Verfahren zur verminderung des einlaufens und verfilzens von keratinfasern enthaltendem oder daraus bestehendem gut
FR2395141A1 (fr) * 1977-06-21 1979-01-19 Centre Tech Ind Papier Feuille antiderapante et procede pour l'obtenir

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
NZ234114A (en) 1992-12-23
AU626122B2 (en) 1992-07-23
EP0403336A1 (de) 1990-12-19
DK0403336T3 (da) 1994-02-28
FR2648486A1 (fr) 1990-12-21
AU5719190A (en) 1990-12-20
ES2062441T3 (es) 1994-12-16
DE69006109T2 (de) 1994-07-14
FR2648486B1 (fr) 1991-08-30
DE69006109D1 (de) 1994-03-03
ATE100507T1 (de) 1994-02-15

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