EP0369822A1

EP0369822A1 - Knitted stretch lace

Info

Publication number: EP0369822A1
Application number: EP89311957A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Michael Charles Collins; Ronald Arthur Shaw; Geoffrey Raymond Farmer
Original assignee: CHATSWORTH KNITTING Ltd
Current assignee: CHATSWORTH KNITTING Ltd
Priority date: 1988-11-17
Filing date: 1989-11-17
Publication date: 1990-05-23
Anticipated expiration: 2009-11-17
Also published as: DE68904170T2; GB2225034A; ATE84082T1; DE68904170D1; EP0369822B1; GB2225034B; ES2037964T3; GB8826908D0

Abstract

A stretchable knitted fabric having the visual effect of lace, comprises a ground of monofil synthetic filament co-knitted with a contractile yarn, and a pattern provided by a third co-knitted yarn, the knitted fabric having been pre-set at a temperature of from 185 to 205°C.

Description

This invention relates to a knitted fabric having the visual effect of lace, but having stretch and recover characteristics.
True laces, eg Raschel or Leavers laces, are made on lace machines and are generally adapted to provide narrow piece goods, for example edgings and trimmings. Lace of this type can be made in a stretch and recover form, using an elastane such as Lycra (Trade Mark). There is, however. a requirement for wide piece goods in the form of patterned lace, or more accurately lace-type knitted fabric, which exhibits good stretch and recover characteristics and thus lends itself to use in bodywear and intimate apparel such as leotards, tights etc. However, heavy lace effects carrying a dense pattern (e.g. of the guipure type) are difficult to produce when they contain a pattern of staple fibre, especially in wide pieces, since modern lace machinery is generally adapted to deal with extruded filament-based yarn.
We have now devised a method of producing a stretch and recover lace-type fabric on a double, or single jersey knitting machine, by knitting a ground of a combination of contractile and non-contractile yarn together with a pattern of staple or other yarn and then heat setting the fabric to stabilise the contractile yarn.
According to the invention we provide a stretchable knitted fabric having the visual effect of lace, comprising a ground of monofil synthetic filament co-knitted with a contractile yarn, and a pattern provided by a third co-knitted yarn, the knitted fabric having been preset at a temperature of from 185 to 205°C. In general, the ground is produce of a combination of an elastane such as Lycra, Dorlaston, Spandex (Registered Trade Marks) etc, and a monofil synthetic filament, e.g. a polyamide or polyester. In view of the temperature used in the heat setting, a polyamide such as nylon 66 is most preferred. The monofil filament is preferably from 10 to 45 dtex.
The elastane may be a "bare" elastane, or a covered yarn in which the elastane is wound with a second fibre, generally a polyamide, although cotton or another cellulosic fibre, or polyesters, or mixtures thereof can be used. While all yarn run to the knitting machine must be under a suitable tension, it is important that the elastane is under suitable tension, which in turn depends on the degree of stretch and stretch recovery required in the finished product. Typically for an elastane of from 33 to 156 dtex a tension of 2-4grms per end is suitable.
The monofil and the elastane are knitted together on the same needles, preferably on a yarn-for-yarn basis, although the yarn proportion can vary from 1:1 as required.
The amount of the third yarn used for the pattern effect will, of course, depend on the amount of patterning provided. Typically the pattern yarn is a staple fibre, in particular a cellulosic fibre such as cotton or a synthetic such as rayon. Where a staple cotton yarn is used, a cotton count of about 1/8's to 1/60's, e.g. 1/22's or 1/30's, is suitable, depending on the machine gauge. Cellulose-based pattern yarns are preferred, partly because of suitability for the heat treatment, and also for the ease of dyeing, but primarily for the aesthetic appeal.
The fabric is knitted on a conventional jersey machine. especially a double jersey weft knitting machine. e.g. of gauge 8 to 32. Electronic jacquard machines are particularly suitable for detailed pattern work on a large area.
It is an important part of the process that the knitted fabric is heat set at a temperature of 185 to 205°C, preferably about 195°C, in order to prevent contraction of the elastane. In a typical procedure, a double jersey is slit open onto an A frame and heat set a 195°C at a speed of about 16m/min, preferably on an indirectly heated stenter. After this heat treatment, the fabric can be passed through one or more dying procedures, typically jet-dyeing the nylon content, drying at, say, 140 to 150°C, and then pad dyeing the cellulosic content, followed by a stenter softening process and drying.
By operating in this way, it is possible to produce a fine lace-effect knitted fabric which is smooth and un-gathered, but which has good stretch and recovery characteristics coupled with a pattern effect which can be produced in staple yarn.

Claims

1. A stretchable knitted fabric having the visual effect of lace, comprising a ground of monofil synthetic filament co-knitted with a contractile yarn, and a pattern provided by a third co-knitted yarn, the knitted fabric having been pre-set at a temperature of from 185 to 205°C.

2. A knitted fabric according to claim 1, in which the third yarn forming the pattern is a staple yarn.

3. A knitted fabric according to claim 2, in which the staple yarn is a cellulosic yarn.

4. A knitted fabric according to any of claims 1 to 3, in which the contractile yarn comprises an elastane, either bare or covered with a second yarn.

5. A knitted fabric according to claim 4 in which the elastane is from 33 to 156 dtex.

6. A knitted fabric according to any of the proceeding claims in which the monofil is from 10 to 45 dtex.

7. A knitted fabric according to claim 4 or claim 5, in which the elastane is covered with a polyamide of from 33 to 78 dtex.

8. A knitted fabric according to any of claims 1 to 7 comprising a ground of polyamide monofil and polyamide-covered elastane and a pattern of cotton staple.

9. A process for the production of a stretchable knitted fabric having the visual effect of lace, comprising knitting together monofil synthetic filament and a contractile yarn to form a ground and a third yarn to form a lace-type pattern and heat setting the knitted fabric at a temperature of from 185 to 205°C.