EP0344250B1 - Enzymatic treatment of wool - Google Patents
Enzymatic treatment of wool Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0344250B1 EP0344250B1 EP88910009A EP88910009A EP0344250B1 EP 0344250 B1 EP0344250 B1 EP 0344250B1 EP 88910009 A EP88910009 A EP 88910009A EP 88910009 A EP88910009 A EP 88910009A EP 0344250 B1 EP0344250 B1 EP 0344250B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- wool
- hair
- protease
- shrinkage
- felt
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 61
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 title claims description 19
- 230000002255 enzymatic effect Effects 0.000 title description 7
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 37
- 239000004365 Protease Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 108091005804 Peptidases Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 102100037486 Reverse transcriptase/ribonuclease H Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 235000019419 proteases Nutrition 0.000 claims description 19
- ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorine atom Chemical compound [Cl] ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000000460 chlorine Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 229910052801 chlorine Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000005660 chlorination reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000007669 thermal treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 108010003855 mesentericopeptidase Proteins 0.000 claims description 5
- 108010004032 Bromelains Proteins 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000019835 bromelain Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000005470 impregnation Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 108010019160 Pancreatin Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940055695 pancreatin Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 claims description 3
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 108090000284 Pepsin A Proteins 0.000 claims description 2
- 102000057297 Pepsin A Human genes 0.000 claims description 2
- 108010059712 Pronase Proteins 0.000 claims description 2
- 108090001109 Thermolysin Proteins 0.000 claims description 2
- 108090000631 Trypsin Proteins 0.000 claims description 2
- 102000004142 Trypsin Human genes 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940111202 pepsin Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000012588 trypsin Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960001322 trypsin Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims 1
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 description 12
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 description 12
- 229940088598 enzyme Drugs 0.000 description 12
- 238000002203 pretreatment Methods 0.000 description 7
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 102000035195 Peptidases Human genes 0.000 description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- KZBUYRJDOAKODT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorine Chemical compound ClCl KZBUYRJDOAKODT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrochloric acid Chemical compound Cl VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- DWAQJAXMDSEUJJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium bisulfite Chemical compound [Na+].OS([O-])=O DWAQJAXMDSEUJJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000018102 proteins Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 235000010267 sodium hydrogen sulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000004289 sodium hydrogen sulphite Substances 0.000 description 2
- GEHJYWRUCIMESM-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium sulfite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])=O GEHJYWRUCIMESM-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 2
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- JIAARYAFYJHUJI-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc dichloride Chemical compound [Cl-].[Cl-].[Zn+2] JIAARYAFYJHUJI-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 241000894006 Bacteria Species 0.000 description 1
- OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Calcium Chemical compound [Ca] OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CBENFWSGALASAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ozone Chemical compound [O-][O+]=O CBENFWSGALASAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005708 Sodium hypochlorite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012190 activator Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910000288 alkali metal carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000008041 alkali metal carbonates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000004075 alteration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012736 aqueous medium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000001110 calcium chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001628 calcium chloride Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000000969 carrier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005018 casein Substances 0.000 description 1
- BECPQYXYKAMYBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N casein, tech. Chemical compound NCCCCC(C(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CC(C)C)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(C(C)O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(COP(O)(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(N)CC1=CC=CC=C1 BECPQYXYKAMYBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021240 caseins Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- XUJNEKJLAYXESH-UHFFFAOYSA-N cysteine Natural products SCC(N)C(O)=O XUJNEKJLAYXESH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VHJLVAABSRFDPM-QWWZWVQMSA-N dithiothreitol Chemical compound SC[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CS VHJLVAABSRFDPM-QWWZWVQMSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- DNJIEGIFACGWOD-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl mercaptane Natural products CCS DNJIEGIFACGWOD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009950 felting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 244000144992 flock Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 1
- WQYVRQLZKVEZGA-UHFFFAOYSA-N hypochlorite Chemical class Cl[O-] WQYVRQLZKVEZGA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006386 neutralization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004745 nonwoven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- FHHJDRFHHWUPDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N peroxysulfuric acid Chemical compound OOS(O)(=O)=O FHHJDRFHHWUPDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012286 potassium permanganate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007639 printing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- SUKJFIGYRHOWBL-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium hypochlorite Chemical compound [Na+].Cl[O-] SUKJFIGYRHOWBL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000010265 sodium sulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005507 spraying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003019 stabilising effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002699 waste material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011592 zinc chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005074 zinc chloride Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- DGVVWUTYPXICAM-UHFFFAOYSA-N β‐Mercaptoethanol Chemical compound OCCS DGVVWUTYPXICAM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a process for the production of wool and animal hairs with a low-in-felt or felt-free finish and to the wool or animal hairs so obtained.
- the object of the present invention is to produce wool and animal hairs which keep their natural aspect and still have scales, but are low-in-felt or felt-free.
- This object is achieved by an enzymatic treatment which, in contrast to the known treatments, is superficial and short but effective to obtain a product that can be washed without negative consequences in ordinary household washing machines.
- a reliable method to differentiate this product from natural wool is the IWS Test Method 31, published by the International Wool Secretariate. Whereas the untreated fibres start to felt at the latest after 3 cycles of the described 7 A washes, the enzymatically treated wool according to the invention can stand at least 5 of these cycles without felting.
- the yarn strength of the treated wool should, compared with untreated wool, be lost by less than 15 % and the elongation should deteriorate by less than 20 %.
- the invention therefore, relates to a process for the production of wool or protein containing animal hair, which have a low-in-felt or felt-free finish defined by the following properties:
- protease any protein-splitting enzyme. Suitable proteases are enzymes recovered from bacteria, for example esperase, pronase E, protease P, subtilysin, thermolysin, as well as enzymes from animal or plant origin, for example trypsin, pepsin, pancreatin or bromelain. Mixtures of various enzymes can also be used. These proteases are available commercially. Preferred proteases for the process according to the invention are the animal and vegetable enzymes, especially bromelain.
- the effectiveness of the enzyme employed can be increased by adding specific activators such as cystein, dithioerythrol, dithiothreitol or mercaptoethanol.
- Further additives such as salts which are known for stabilising enzymes, can also be used, e.g. calcium or zinc chloride. These salts are employed in a quantity which corresponds to the enzyme.
- Treatment of the wool or hair with a protease is effected by means of impregnation from a short bath, for example by padding, spraying, coating or printing.
- the protease may be applied from an aqueous medium or from organic solvent, or also as a paste or foam.
- the liquor-to-goods ratio is conveniently in the range 1:0.7 to 1:10, preferably 1:1 to 1:5.
- the protease is preferably effected at a temperature between room temperature and 60°C.
- the treatment liquor or paste is preferably set at a pH value between 4 and 9, especially 5-7, using a commercial buffer.
- the protease is conveniently used in a quantity of 0.1 to 5 %, calculated on the dry weight of the wool. When applied by means of impregnation, the protease is used in a quantity of 0.1 to 2%, corresponding to an enzyme activity of 400 to 1500 CDU(casein digesting unit)/mg. Preferably a quantity of 0.5 to 1 % is used.
- the wool or hair is either left to dwell and/or undergoes thermal treatment.
- the dwelling period may last from a short interim period to several hours, with partial or complete drying of the goods.
- the thermal treatment may take place for a few minutes up to several hours, optionally until the wool is dry.
- High frequency (HF) waves are used for the thermal treatment.
- the wool or hair is conveniently treated at about 100-102°C between 10 minutes and 1 hour.
- the conditions for the dwelling period or the thermal treatment are chosen such that the wool obtained has the desired properties, and preferably such that the enzyme is simultaneously disactivated at the end of the treatment. Any enzyme that is still active can also be disactivated by known methods after treatment.
- the wool or hair is then washed and dried, and further processed.
- the process according to the invention may be used both for wool and for other protein-containing animal hairs.
- the fibre material may exist in various stages of processing, e.g. in the form of flocks, tops and roving, yarn, knitted goods, woven goods, non-wovens or felts.
- the wool may be used for the process according to the invention in the raw or pre-treated state.
- Suitable pre-treatments for wool or hair may be for example oxidative treatments, e.g. with hydrogen peroxide, optionally in the presence of a stabiliser, with potassium permanganate, Caro's acid, chlorine or chlorine-containing compounds such as chlorine gas, hypochlorites or organic chlorine carriers, or with ozone.
- the wool or hair is rinsed and dried.
- the wool or hair is chlorinated by oxidation and then treated with a protease.
- the oxidative chlorination of the wool or hair is preferably carried out using active chlorine, e.g. in the form of chlorine gas in water or in the form of sodium hypochlorite with hydrochloric acid.
- active chlorine e.g. in the form of chlorine gas in water or in the form of sodium hypochlorite with hydrochloric acid.
- This pre-treatment may be carried out by known methods.
- the wool or hair preferably undergoes mild chlorination.
- the wool or hair is preferably chlorinated with a quantity of 0.1 to 2% of active chlorine, calculated on the dry weight of the wool or hair. This treatment advantageously takes place at a pH of 2-3 for 1 to 10 seconds.
- Chlorination is preferably effected at a temperature of between 10 and 30°C.
- the wool or hair After the pre-treatment, in order to attain the desired enzymatic effect, it is advantageous for the wool or hair to be free from residual pre-treatment agents and to have a pH in a neutral range.
- the fibre material is treated so as to be free from residual chlorine, and is subsequently or simultaneously neutralised.
- the chlorine present on the fibre or in the fibre is removed by treatment with a reducing agent, for example sodium bisulphite, sodium sulphite etc.
- Neutralisation is advantageously carried out with an alkaline compound, for example an alkali metal carbonate.
- the scaly layer of the wool or hair is partly or only slightly changed or activated.
- wool or hair is obtained which has reduced felt behaviour and does not provoke problems during further processing (spinning, bleaching, dyeing) and during usage and washing of the articles made therefrom.
- the wool which is treated in accordance with the invention has a soft and, which is particularly advantageous, natural woolly handle. When it is chlorinated as tops and is then treated enzymatically as mentioned above, an especially soft wool or hair is produced.
- the dyeing behaviour of the wool or hair which is treated according to the invention and the fastness properties of the dyed wool or hair are also not adversely affected, on the contrary they are considerably improved.
- Wool tops are firstly padded for 3 seconds at a temperature of lO-20° on a split padder for tops with chlorine water containing O.4 % active chlorine. The wool is subsequently rinsed, then treated for 45 seconds with liquor containing 4 g/l sodium carbonate and l g/l sodium bisulphite, and washed twice.
- Wool tops are padded at 40° with an aqueous liquor which is buffered to pH 6.0 and contains 0.5 % esperase [Bac. lich., obtainable from Novo (Denmark)] calculated on the dry weight of the tops, and then squeezed out to a pick-up of 50 %.
- the impregnated tops are subsequently left to dwell for an interim period and then treated for 30 minutes in a HF drier at 100-102°. After this treatment, the tops are washed out and then dried.
- a soft wool which is low in felt and which can be spun with little waste is obtained.
- a protease such as pancreatin can be used in example 1 instead of the esperase.
- a wool with a soft woolly handle and shrink-resistant properties is obtained.
- Example 1 is repeated using, instead of 0.5 % of esperase, 0.5 % of bromelain.
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
- Preparation Of Compounds By Using Micro-Organisms (AREA)
Abstract
Description
- The present invention relates to a process for the production of wool and animal hairs with a low-in-felt or felt-free finish and to the wool or animal hairs so obtained.
- To obtain felt-free wool has been a problem for many years and many methods including enzymatic treatments have been proposed to solve this problem. A review of such methods has been published by E.P. Frieser in Textil-Praxis, 18 (1963, 03), pages 236-240 and he refers back to articles by W.R. Middlebrook and H. Phillips in J. Soc.Dyers and Colorists, 57 (1941), pages 137-144 and A.N. Davidson and R. Preston in J. Text. Inst. 47 (1956), pages 685-707 (also described in BE-A-536 819). Although not always as explicitly stated as in EP-A-0 134 267, the object of these enzymatic treatments was to achieve a complete descaling of the wool, i.e. that the outer surface of the fibres is totally removed and the character of the fibres changed in such a way that the natural aspect of the wool is lost.
- The object of the present invention is to produce wool and animal hairs which keep their natural aspect and still have scales, but are low-in-felt or felt-free. This object is achieved by an enzymatic treatment which, in contrast to the known treatments, is superficial and short but effective to obtain a product that can be washed without negative consequences in ordinary household washing machines. A reliable method to differentiate this product from natural wool is the IWS Test Method 31, published by the International Wool Secretariate. Whereas the untreated fibres start to felt at the latest after 3 cycles of the described 7 A washes, the enzymatically treated wool according to the invention can stand at least 5 of these cycles without felting.
- Another method to determine whether the wool fibres can be called felt-free is the well known Cubex-Test according to IWS Test Method 185, in which the shrinkage properties of wool are determined by treatment for one hour in cube form in a standardised washing appliance. In this test the wool should have an area shrinkage of ≦ 10% after a Cubex test lasting at least one hour. By area shrinkage is understood the sum of the % shrinkage in length and of the % shrinkage in width. This corresponds to about 15-20 machine washes at high speed in a domestic washing machine without shrinkage or without significant alteration to the surface and shape.
- Furthermore, the yarn strength of the treated wool should, compared with untreated wool, be lost by less than 15 % and the elongation should deteriorate by less than 20 %.
- The invention, therefore, relates to a process for the production of wool or protein containing animal hair, which have a low-in-felt or felt-free finish defined by the following properties:
- a) an area shrinkage (sum of the % shrinkage in length and the % shrinkage in width) of ≦ 10% after a Cubex test lasting at least one hour or after 5 cycles 7 A according to IWS TM 31,
- b) a loss of yarn strength, compared with untreated wool or hair, of less than 15 %, and
- c) an elongation which deteriorates by less than 20 %,
comprising an oxidative pretreatment of the wool or hair, followed by treatment thereof with a protease, characterised in that the oxidative pretreatment is a chlorination using active chlorine, that - d) the wool or the hair is contacted with the protease by means of impregnation from a short bath having a liquor-to-goods ratio in the range of 1:0.7 to 1:5;
that the wool or hair is squeezed out and - e) the wool or hair, with the protease from the bath still thereon, is subjected to thermal treatment at a temperature between room temperature(20°C) and 140°C with high frequency (HF) waves for up to one hour.
- By protease is understood any protein-splitting enzyme. Suitable proteases are enzymes recovered from bacteria, for example esperase, pronase E, protease P, subtilysin, thermolysin, as well as enzymes from animal or plant origin, for example trypsin, pepsin, pancreatin or bromelain. Mixtures of various enzymes can also be used. These proteases are available commercially. Preferred proteases for the process according to the invention are the animal and vegetable enzymes, especially bromelain.
- The effectiveness of the enzyme employed can be increased by adding specific activators such as cystein, dithioerythrol, dithiothreitol or mercaptoethanol. Further additives, such as salts which are known for stabilising enzymes, can also be used, e.g. calcium or zinc chloride. These salts are employed in a quantity which corresponds to the enzyme.
- Treatment of the wool or hair with a protease is effected by means of impregnation from a short bath, for example by padding, spraying, coating or printing. The protease may be applied from an aqueous medium or from organic solvent, or also as a paste or foam. The liquor-to-goods ratio is conveniently in the range 1:0.7 to 1:10, preferably 1:1 to 1:5.
- Application of the protease is preferably effected at a temperature between room temperature and 60°C. The treatment liquor or paste is preferably set at a pH value between 4 and 9, especially 5-7, using a commercial buffer.
- The protease is conveniently used in a quantity of 0.1 to 5 %, calculated on the dry weight of the wool. When applied by means of impregnation, the protease is used in a quantity of 0.1 to 2%, corresponding to an enzyme activity of 400 to 1500 CDU(casein digesting unit)/mg. Preferably a quantity of 0.5 to 1 % is used.
- Directly after the enzymatic treatment, the wool or hair is either left to dwell and/or undergoes thermal treatment. The dwelling period may last from a short interim period to several hours, with partial or complete drying of the goods. Depending on the temperature, the thermal treatment may take place for a few minutes up to several hours, optionally until the wool is dry. High frequency (HF) waves are used for the thermal treatment. In the HF drier, the wool or hair is conveniently treated at about 100-102°C between 10 minutes and 1 hour. The conditions for the dwelling period or the thermal treatment are chosen such that the wool obtained has the desired properties, and preferably such that the enzyme is simultaneously disactivated at the end of the treatment. Any enzyme that is still active can also be disactivated by known methods after treatment.
- The wool or hair is then washed and dried, and further processed.
- The process according to the invention may be used both for wool and for other protein-containing animal hairs. The fibre material may exist in various stages of processing, e.g. in the form of flocks, tops and roving, yarn, knitted goods, woven goods, non-wovens or felts. The wool may be used for the process according to the invention in the raw or pre-treated state.
- In order to attain certain effects and/or to optimise the effect of the protease, it may be convenient to carry out special pre-treatments prior to the enzymatic treatment. Suitable pre-treatments for wool or hair may be for example oxidative treatments, e.g. with hydrogen peroxide, optionally in the presence of a stabiliser, with potassium permanganate, Caro's acid, chlorine or chlorine-containing compounds such as chlorine gas, hypochlorites or organic chlorine carriers, or with ozone.
- After the pre-treatment, the wool or hair is rinsed and dried.
- In a preferred feature of the process according to the invention, the wool or hair is chlorinated by oxidation and then treated with a protease.
- The oxidative chlorination of the wool or hair is preferably carried out using active chlorine, e.g. in the form of chlorine gas in water or in the form of sodium hypochlorite with hydrochloric acid. This pre-treatment may be carried out by known methods. The wool or hair preferably undergoes mild chlorination. The wool or hair is preferably chlorinated with a quantity of 0.1 to 2% of active chlorine, calculated on the dry weight of the wool or hair. This treatment advantageously takes place at a pH of 2-3 for 1 to 10 seconds. Chlorination is preferably effected at a temperature of between 10 and 30°C.
- After the pre-treatment, in order to attain the desired enzymatic effect, it is advantageous for the wool or hair to be free from residual pre-treatment agents and to have a pH in a neutral range.
- After chlorination, the fibre material is treated so as to be free from residual chlorine, and is subsequently or simultaneously neutralised. The chlorine present on the fibre or in the fibre is removed by treatment with a reducing agent, for example sodium bisulphite, sodium sulphite etc. Neutralisation is advantageously carried out with an alkaline compound, for example an alkali metal carbonate.
- Depending on the chosen conditions of the process, with or without pre-treatment, the scaly layer of the wool or hair is partly or only slightly changed or activated. As a result of the enzyme treatment, wool or hair is obtained which has reduced felt behaviour and does not provoke problems during further processing (spinning, bleaching, dyeing) and during usage and washing of the articles made therefrom. The wool which is treated in accordance with the invention has a soft and, which is particularly advantageous, natural woolly handle. When it is chlorinated as tops and is then treated enzymatically as mentioned above, an especially soft wool or hair is produced. The dyeing behaviour of the wool or hair which is treated according to the invention and the fastness properties of the dyed wool or hair are also not adversely affected, on the contrary they are considerably improved.
- The following examples illustrate the invention. All percentages are by weight and all temperatures are given in Centigrade.
-
- Wool tops are firstly padded for 3 seconds at a temperature of lO-20° on a split padder for tops with chlorine water containing O.4 % active chlorine. The wool is subsequently rinsed, then treated for 45 seconds with liquor containing 4 g/l sodium carbonate and l g/l sodium bisulphite, and washed twice.
- Wool tops are padded at 40° with an aqueous liquor which is buffered to pH 6.0 and contains 0.5 % esperase [Bac. lich., obtainable from Novo (Denmark)] calculated on the dry weight of the tops, and then squeezed out to a pick-up of 50 %.
- The impregnated tops are subsequently left to dwell for an interim period and then treated for 30 minutes in a HF drier at 100-102°. After this treatment, the tops are washed out and then dried.
- A soft wool which is low in felt and which can be spun with little waste is obtained.
- A protease such as pancreatin can be used in example 1 instead of the esperase. A wool with a soft woolly handle and shrink-resistant properties is obtained.
- Example 1 is repeated using, instead of 0.5 % of esperase, 0.5 % of bromelain.
- Wool with a soft woolly handle and shrink resistant properties is obtained.
Claims (4)
- Process for the production of wool, or protein-containing animal hair, which have a low in felt or felt-free finish defined bya) an area shrinkage (sum of the % shrinkage in length and the % shrinkage in width) of ≦ 10% after a Cubex test of at least one hour or after 5 cycles 7 A according to IWS TM 31,b) a loss of yarn strength, compared with untreated wool or hair, of less than 15%; andc) an elongation which deteriorates by less than 20 %,
comprising an oxidative pretreatment of the wool or hair, followed by treatment thereof with a protease, characterised in that the oxidative pretreatment is a chlorination using active chlorine, thatd) the wool or the hair is contacted with the protease by means of impregnation from a short bath having a liquor-to-goods ratio in the range of 1:0.7 to 1:5
that the wool or hair is squeezed out ande) the wool or hair, with the protease from the bath still thereon, is subjected to thermal treatment at a temperature between room temperature(20°C) and 140°C with high frequency (HF) waves for up to one hour. - Process according to claim 1, characterised in that the protease used is esperase, pronase E, protease P, subtilysin, thermolysin, trypsin, pepsin, pancreatin or bromelain.
- Process according to claims 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the protease is used in a quantity of 0.1 to 5%, calculated on the dry weight of the wool or hair.
- Enzymatically treated, resin free wool or animal hair with substantially unchanged scaly layer having the following properties:a) an area shrinkage (sum of the % shrinkage in length and the % shrinkage in width) of ≦ 10% after a Cubex test of at least one hour or after 5 cycles 7 A according to IWS TM 31,b) a loss of yarn strength, compared with untreated wool or hair, of less than 15%; andc) an elongation which deteriorates by less than 20%.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
AT88910009T ATE89349T1 (en) | 1987-10-28 | 1988-10-27 | ENZYMATIC TREATMENT OF WOOL. |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CH421487 | 1987-10-28 | ||
CH4214/87 | 1987-10-28 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0344250A1 EP0344250A1 (en) | 1989-12-06 |
EP0344250B1 true EP0344250B1 (en) | 1993-05-12 |
Family
ID=4271923
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP88910009A Expired - Lifetime EP0344250B1 (en) | 1987-10-28 | 1988-10-27 | Enzymatic treatment of wool |
Country Status (10)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP0344250B1 (en) |
JP (1) | JPH02502032A (en) |
KR (1) | KR890701833A (en) |
CN (1) | CN1028781C (en) |
AT (1) | ATE89349T1 (en) |
AU (1) | AU626818B2 (en) |
BR (1) | BR8807268A (en) |
DE (1) | DE3881033T2 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2009361A6 (en) |
WO (1) | WO1989003909A1 (en) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US6723550B1 (en) | 1997-07-15 | 2004-04-20 | Genencor International, Inc. | Proteases from gram-positive organisms |
Families Citing this family (26)
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US5529928A (en) * | 1987-10-28 | 1996-06-25 | Schoeller Hardtrum Ag | Enzymatic treatment of wool |
US5232851A (en) * | 1990-10-16 | 1993-08-03 | Springs Industries, Inc. | Methods for treating non-dyed and non-finished cotton woven fabric with cellulase to improve appearance and feel characteristics |
TR199501643A2 (en) * | 1994-12-21 | 1996-07-21 | Nova Nordisk As | Method for the treatment of wool with enzymes. |
US5980579A (en) * | 1996-12-17 | 1999-11-09 | Genencor International, Inc. | Process for improved shrink resistance in wool |
FR2769647B1 (en) * | 1997-10-09 | 2000-05-12 | Peignage Amedee | PROCESS FOR THE MECHANICAL / BIOCHEMICAL TREATMENT OF TEXTILE FIBERS OF ANIMAL ORIGIN, AND THE NEW FIBERS AND NEW ARTICLES THUS OBTAINED |
FR2769646B1 (en) * | 1997-10-09 | 1999-12-03 | Peignage Amedee | PROCESS FOR THE MECHANICAL / BIOCHEMICAL TREATMENT OF TEXTILE FIBERS OF ANIMAL ORIGIN, AND THE NEW FIBERS AND NEW ARTICLES THUS OBTAINED |
ES2367505T3 (en) | 1997-10-23 | 2011-11-04 | Danisco Us Inc. | PROTEASE VARIANTS WITH MULTIPLE SUBSTITUTIONS WITH ALTERED NET LOAD FOR USE IN DETERGENTS. |
US6528255B1 (en) | 1997-12-30 | 2003-03-04 | Genencor International, Inc. | Proteases from gram positive organisms |
US6599731B1 (en) | 1997-12-30 | 2003-07-29 | Genencor International, Inc. | Proteases from gram positive organisms |
GB9727470D0 (en) | 1997-12-30 | 1998-02-25 | Genencor Int Bv | Proteases from gram positive organisms |
US6465186B1 (en) | 1997-12-30 | 2002-10-15 | Genecor International, Inc. | Proteases from gram positive organisms |
DE19807456B4 (en) * | 1998-02-21 | 2008-01-17 | Textilchemie Dr. Petry Gmbh | Felt-free wool and process for its production |
US6140109A (en) * | 1998-05-20 | 2000-10-31 | Novo Nordisk Biochem North America, Inc. | Method for enzymatic treatment of wool |
US6051033A (en) * | 1998-05-20 | 2000-04-18 | Novo Nordisk Brochem North America Inc. | Method for enzymatic treatment of wool |
JP4344950B2 (en) * | 2003-02-06 | 2009-10-14 | 大和化成株式会社 | Shrinking of animal hair fiber |
CN1316117C (en) * | 2005-05-18 | 2007-05-16 | 陕西省科学院酶工程研究所 | Finishing method for preventing felting and shrinking of wood fabric |
CN102965955A (en) * | 2012-10-19 | 2013-03-13 | 江南大学 | Cutinase, keratinase and protease one-bath process anti-felting technology |
CN102965960B (en) * | 2012-11-21 | 2014-12-17 | 山东来利来毛纺有限公司 | Shrink-proof technique of chemical fiber |
CN103643485A (en) * | 2013-11-30 | 2014-03-19 | 江苏金泰针织有限责任公司 | Anti-felting finishing process for knitted woolen sweater |
JP2017504694A (en) * | 2014-01-06 | 2017-02-09 | リライアンス、インダストリーズ、リミテッドReliance Industries Limited | Polyester recovery process |
CN105986484B (en) * | 2015-02-13 | 2018-05-29 | 天津滨海东方科技有限公司 | Continuous processing technology without chlorine wool tops and wool product anti-shrinking |
CN104727154B (en) * | 2015-03-12 | 2017-01-18 | 浙江米皇羊绒股份有限公司 | Machine-washable cashmere sweater |
CN105908309A (en) * | 2016-06-30 | 2016-08-31 | 江苏华信亚麻纺织有限公司 | Wet spinning technique for spun silk and flax blending |
CN107964687A (en) * | 2017-11-28 | 2018-04-27 | 黄桂凤 | A kind of degreasing method of animal wool |
CN113430815B (en) * | 2021-07-28 | 2022-03-04 | 武汉纺织大学 | Continuous processing method and device for improving shrinkproof property of wool fabric |
CN114230855A (en) * | 2021-12-18 | 2022-03-25 | 河北省微生物研究所有限公司 | Method for recycling wool fibers by using complex enzyme preparation |
Family Cites Families (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
BE536819A (en) * | ||||
JPS58144105A (en) * | 1982-02-12 | 1983-08-27 | Kurabo Ind Ltd | Production of descaled animal fiber |
-
1988
- 1988-10-27 EP EP88910009A patent/EP0344250B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1988-10-27 AU AU27101/88A patent/AU626818B2/en not_active Ceased
- 1988-10-27 DE DE88910009T patent/DE3881033T2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1988-10-27 KR KR1019890701194A patent/KR890701833A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1988-10-27 AT AT88910009T patent/ATE89349T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1988-10-27 BR BR888807268A patent/BR8807268A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1988-10-27 WO PCT/EP1988/000971 patent/WO1989003909A1/en active IP Right Grant
- 1988-10-27 JP JP63509208A patent/JPH02502032A/en active Pending
- 1988-10-27 CN CN88108412A patent/CN1028781C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1988-10-28 ES ES8803301A patent/ES2009361A6/en not_active Expired
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
Journal of the Textile Institute, Proceedings, vol. 47, 1956,A.N. Davidson et al.: "Shrink-resisting wool: some novel features and the description of a new process", pages 685-707; see page 687,no.3; page 691 * |
Cited By (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US6723550B1 (en) | 1997-07-15 | 2004-04-20 | Genencor International, Inc. | Proteases from gram-positive organisms |
US6833261B2 (en) | 1997-07-15 | 2004-12-21 | Genencor International, Inc. | Proteases from gram-positive organisms |
US6849440B2 (en) | 1997-07-15 | 2005-02-01 | Genencor International, Inc. | Proteases from gram-positive organisms |
US6881562B2 (en) | 1997-07-15 | 2005-04-19 | Genencor International, Inc. | Proteases from gram-positive organisms |
US6911333B2 (en) | 1997-07-15 | 2005-06-28 | Genencor International, Inc. | Proteases from gram-positive organisms |
US7316920B2 (en) | 1997-07-15 | 2008-01-08 | Genencor International, Inc. | Serine proteases from gram-positive microorganisms |
US7329525B2 (en) | 1997-07-15 | 2008-02-12 | Genencor International, Inc. | Serine proteases from gram-positive microorganisms |
US7329526B2 (en) | 1997-07-15 | 2008-02-12 | Genencor International, Inc. | Serine proteases from-gram-positive microorganisms |
US7329527B2 (en) | 1997-07-15 | 2008-02-12 | Genencor International, Inc. | Serine proteases from gram-positive microorganisms |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
AU2710188A (en) | 1989-05-23 |
CN1028781C (en) | 1995-06-07 |
DE3881033T2 (en) | 1993-12-02 |
AU626818B2 (en) | 1992-08-13 |
WO1989003909A1 (en) | 1989-05-05 |
KR890701833A (en) | 1989-12-21 |
BR8807268A (en) | 1989-10-31 |
CN1034032A (en) | 1989-07-19 |
JPH02502032A (en) | 1990-07-05 |
ATE89349T1 (en) | 1993-05-15 |
EP0344250A1 (en) | 1989-12-06 |
DE3881033D1 (en) | 1993-06-17 |
ES2009361A6 (en) | 1989-09-16 |
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