EP0289263B1 - Verfahren zur Herstellung von Mustern auf Gewebe und hergestelltes Material - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Herstellung von Mustern auf Gewebe und hergestelltes Material Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0289263B1
EP0289263B1 EP88303745A EP88303745A EP0289263B1 EP 0289263 B1 EP0289263 B1 EP 0289263B1 EP 88303745 A EP88303745 A EP 88303745A EP 88303745 A EP88303745 A EP 88303745A EP 0289263 B1 EP0289263 B1 EP 0289263B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
areas
water
pattern
wetted
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EP88303745A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP0289263A3 (en
EP0289263A2 (de
Inventor
Wesley Dan Christie
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Milliken Research Corp
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Milliken Research Corp
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Priority to AT88303745T priority Critical patent/ATE81687T1/de
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Publication of EP0289263A3 publication Critical patent/EP0289263A3/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/12—Reserving parts of the material before dyeing or printing ; Locally decreasing dye affinity by chemical means
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0079—Local modifications of the ability of the textile material to receive the treating materials, (e.g. its dyeability)
    • D06B11/0089—Local modifications of the ability of the textile material to receive the treating materials, (e.g. its dyeability) the textile material being a surface

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a method for generating a novel pattern-dyed textile product having a batik-like appearance, and to the resulting product.
  • this invention relates to a process whereby a water repellent agent is applied uniformly to a fabric which is then selectively wet by a high velocity water stream in selected areas to be dyed. Subsequent dyeing with an aqueous dye results in dye being retained only in the areas wetted by the water stream.
  • the traditional batik process for textile fabric dyeing involves selectively applying to the undyed fabric surface, in a pattern corresponding to those areas in which dye is to be excluded, a wax or other resist material which will prevent the penetration of liquid dye in the pattern area.
  • the fabric is immersed or otherwise brought into contact with the selected liquid dye.
  • the dye penetrates the yarns in those areas of the fabric not covered by the resist material, but is prevented from penetrating those yarns in the areas covered by the resist material.
  • the wax or other resist material is removed by chemical or other means.
  • the resulting fabric exhibits a dyed pattern which is the negative or inverse of the pattern in which the resist material was applied.
  • the fabric to be patterned is first uniformly treated with a water repelling material, preferably a fluorocarbon composition such as a Scotchguard product, marketed by the 3M Company of St. Paul, Minnesota, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
  • a water repelling material preferably a fluorocarbon composition such as a Scotchguard product, marketed by the 3M Company of St. Paul, Minnesota, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
  • the fabric surface is selectively subjected to one or more streams of a high velocity liquid, preferably water, applied to the fabric surface in a pattern configuration which corresponds to the areas to be dyed.
  • the water streams have sufficient energy to wet the individual yarns in the pattern area, even though the yarns have been treated with a water repelling agent.
  • areas of the fabric not directly impacted by water streams of the correct pressure tend to be not wetted by the surrounding water and retain their hydrophobic character.
  • the water streams not only "force" the yarns to wet by overcoming, due to the high stream velocities used, the hydrophobic nature of the finish, but also remove a quantity of the finish from the yarns directly impacted by the streams, thereby allowing for the temporary wetting of those yarns by the streams.
  • the degree to which the finish is removed is not known with precision; certainly sufficient quantities of the finish remain in the impacted areas to provide a substantially intact water-resistant finish capable of causing the dried fabric to resist wetting over the entire fabric surface.
  • the dye is absorbed in the wetted patterned areas, but is substantially rejected elsewhere due to the hydrophobic character of the water repellent composition present in those areas not impacted, and therefore not wetted, by the high velocity water streams.
  • the resulting dyed fabric may then be fixed and dried by conventional means. When dry, the patterned fabric retains a water repellant character over its entire area, including the areas previously wetted by the water streams.
  • the batik pattern is observable on the face and the back of the fabric, although that side of the fabric directly exposed to the water streams will generally appear to pick up and retain slightly more dye than the opposite side of the fabric, and will therefore appear to be dyed more strongly or deeply.
  • the fabric may exhibit some structural modification in those areas impacted by the water stream, such as localized changes in the warp yarn spacing or other effects, as will be discussed in more detail below.
  • this process may be used repeatedly, using different jet stream impact areas and/or different dyes, to generate a wide variety of patterns and colors. It is also contemplated that the starting fabric may already be dyed a desired uniform background color prior to the application of the water repellent composition.
  • FIG. 1 schematically depicts an apparatus which may be used to generate the products of this invention.
  • Water will be assumed as the working fluid of choice, although other fluids may be substituted therefore.
  • Pump 8 is a pump capable of pumping the water or other desired working fluid at the desired rate and pressure.
  • the pump should be capable of delivering a single stream having a minimum cross-section dimension within the range of about 0.0762 mm (0.003 inch) to about 0.762 mm (0.03 inch), at dynamic pressures ranging from about 7.8 Bars absolute (100 p.s.i.g.) to about 69 Bars absolute (1000 p.s.i.g.) (i.e., water stream velocities ranging from about 60.96 metres per second (200 f.p.s), to about 203.3 metres per second (667 f.p.s)), although stream sizes and stream pressures (or velocities) outside this range may prove advantageous under certain circumstances.
  • streams having diameters lying within the range of about 0.1778 mm (0.007 inch) to about 0.762 mm (0.03 inch) are preferred. Such streams have a diameter which is generally less than twice as large as the spacing between adjacent yarns in most textile fabrics.
  • Dynamic pressures in excess of about 7.8 Bars absolute (100 p.s.i.g) are also generally preferred. Generally, pressures substantially lower than about 7.8 Bars absolute (100 p.s.i.g.) are believed to be insufficient to produce a consistently satisfactory and uniform result.
  • Use of increased pressures tends to increase the degree of "background,” i.e., dye retention in areas not directly impacted by the water stream, but the degree of such effect depends greatly upon the weight and construction of the fabric being patterned.
  • pump 8 is connected to a source 2 of the desired working fluid, e.g., water, via conduit 4 and filter assembly 6.
  • Filter assembly 6 is intended to remove undesirable particulate matter from the working liquid which could clog the various orifice assemblies discussed in more detail below.
  • the high pressure output of pump 8 is fed, via high pressure conduits 10 and 10A, to high velocity fluid orifice assembly 12.
  • Orifice assembly 12 in simple form, may be merely a suitable termination of conduit 10A having a single orifice of the size which will generate a fluid stream of the desired cross-sectional shape and area, and which will operate safely at the desired pressure, as depicted in Figure 2.
  • Conduits 10 and 10A may be any suitable conduit capable of safely accommodating the desired fluid pressures and flow rates, and having sufficient flexibility or rigidity to permit orifice assembly 12 to be positioned as desired with respect to the substrate to be treated.
  • roll 20 Situated in close proximity to orifice assembly 12 is roll 20, over which the textile fabric to be treated is placed.
  • roll 20 has a solid, smooth, inflexible surface (e.g., polished aluminum or stainless steel); a roll having a specially treated or formed surface may be useful in achieving certain special effects on selected substrates. It has been found, for example, that use of a contoured roll surface may result in patterning effects corresponding to the roll surface contours on the substrate.
  • textile fabric 25 Associated with roll 20 is textile fabric 25, which may be in the form of a fabric section which is wrapped about the circumference of roll 20 and securely attached at both ends, as depicted in Figure 1, or which may be in the form of a continuously moving web which is positioned against a portion of roll 20, depicted in, e.g., Figure 3 at 26.
  • contact between the fabric and the high velocity stream of fluid emanating from orifice assembly 12 must be established and interrupted in a way which corresponds to the desired length and lateral spacing of the stripes comprising the pattern.
  • the fluid streams may be made to contact the fabric in closely adjacent or overlapping stripes.
  • Figure 1 shows a diagrammatic side view of a texturing and patterning system in which an orifice assembly 12, which produces a single high velocity fluid jet 18, is associated with a traversing table 14.
  • Table 14 permits orifice assembly 12 to be moved, in a precisely controlled and reproducible manner, parallel to the axis of roll 20, around which is affixed a section of fabric 25 in the form of a sleeve or a short section of fabric, which is securely fastened at both ends about the circumference of roll 20.
  • Orifice assembly 12 may be constructed by installing a high pressure cap 13 having a single orifice of the proper size on the end of a suitable high pressure conduit 10A, as depicted in Figure 2.
  • a high pressure cap 13 having a single orifice of the proper size on the end of a suitable high pressure conduit 10A, as depicted in Figure 2.
  • more elaborate orifice assemblies may be used as well, as will be discussed below.
  • valve 16 Associated with conduits 10 and 10A is remotely actuated fluid valve 16, which valve is preferably installed in close proximity to orifice assembly 12 so as to minimize the length of conduit 10A between valve 16 and orifice assembly 12 and the attendant "water hammer" effect.
  • Valve 16 may be actuated electrically, pneumatically, or by other means.
  • valve 16 comprises an electrical solenoid valve of the type marketed by the Skinner Valve Company, a division of Honeywell, Inc., of Minneapolis, Minnesota, as Model V52H. This valve may be installed upstream of orifice assembly 12, in a conventional manner such as to control the flow of fluid in conduit 10A.
  • a working fluid e.g., water
  • a working fluid e.g., water
  • pump 8 pumped by pump 8 from fluid source 2, through filter means 6, to valve 16.
  • valve 16 is made to open, e.g., via an electrical or pneumatic command signal, and high pressure water is allowed to pass via conduit 10A to orifice assembly 12, where a thin, high velocity water jet 18 is formed and directed onto the fabric 25.
  • an appropriate electrically or pneumatically transmitted instruction causes valve 16 to close.
  • Positioning the desired areas of fabric surface under the jet 18 is achieved by proper coordination of rotation of roll 20 and translation of traversing table 14, which preferably may be accomplished by computer control, in conjunction with a rotation sensor mounted in association with roll 20.
  • a computer may be used to generate on/off instructions to valve 16 in accordance with pre-programmed pattern data. It is contemplated that roll 20 may be made to rotate continuously while traversing table 14 moves relatively slowly, in incremental linear steps, along the axis of the roll, or, preferably, roll 20 may be made to move intermittently, while traversing table 14 sweeps across the fabric face for each incremental rotational movement of roll 20. If the latter technique is employed, fabric 25 may be in the form of a web 26 traveling over roll 21, as shown in Figures 3 and 4, which better lends itself to commercial production methods.
  • an orifice assembly which can generate a multiple jet array may be substituted for the single jet orifice assembly 12. In most commercial applications, this will comprise a preferred embodiment, particularly if computer control is available to control the actuation of the multiple valves necessary in such system, and will be described below.
  • a multiple jet array orifice assembly 32 is situated in close proximity to the surface of fabric web 26, as web 26 passes over roll 21.
  • Array assembly 32 may be sufficiently wide to extend entirely across web 26, or may comprise a fraction of the width of web 26. In the latter case, a traversing table or other means may be used, as discussed above, to obtain full-width coverage.
  • a separate remotely actuatable valve, designated at 16A Associated with each orifice in array assembly 32, and situated in a corresponding conduit 10A, is a separate remotely actuatable valve, designated at 16A, which serves to interrupt or control the stream of high velocity fluid emanating from its respective orifice in array assembly 32.
  • valves can be of any suitable kind, e.g., electrical, pneumatic, etc., and may be installed in any satisfactory conventional manner which will allow safe and positive control of the pressurized fluid.
  • a hydraulic accumulator or ballast tank 30 Inserted between pump 8 and the array of valves 16A is a hydraulic accumulator or ballast tank 30.
  • pump 8 may be specified at a somewhat smaller capacity than would otherwise be the case. Peak, short term demands for high pressure liquid, as when all jets are firing for a given short period of time, may be met by the capacity stored or accumulated in tank 30.
  • Figure 7 depicts a section view of array assembly 32, taken perpendicular to the surface of roll 21 and bisecting the orifices in assembly 32.
  • Orifice block 34 is drilled and fitted with tubes 35 which extend beyond block 34 and which are securely connected with respective supply conduits 10A.
  • Orifice plate 33 is drilled with converging passages 36 which form collectively an array of jets.
  • a stencil is interposed between a single jet or an array of jets and the fabric 25 to interrupt the liquid stream, in place of the valves disclosed above.
  • a sleeve-type stencil 40 comprised of stainless steel, suitable plastic, or other suitable material which serves to mask areas of the fabric which are not to be treated, is placed in fixed relationship over the fabric segment 25 which is attached to roll 20.
  • a traversing means 14 may be used to move the high velocity fluid jet or jets formed at assembly 12 or 32 across the face of the stencil 40 as the stencil and fabric are rotated together on roll 20. If a sufficiently wide multiple jet array is used, traversing means 14 is unnecessary. The fluid streams directly contact the fabric only where permitted by apertures in the stencil 40.
  • the stencil is configured to allow the fabric to be patterned to be in the form of a moving web.
  • Figures 9 and 10 show a configuration whereby a cylindrical stencil 40A is arranged to accommodate a multiple jet array orifice assembly such as shown at 32 within the stencil 40A.
  • orifice assembly 32 preferably comprises an array of jets which extends across the entire width of stencil 40A, which in turn extends across the entire width of fabric web 26.
  • Orifice assembly 32 is preferably located in close proximity to the inside surface of cylindrical stencil 40A; the outer surface of stencil 40A is preferably located in close proximity to, and perhaps in direct contact with, the surface of fabric web 26.
  • Means, not shown, are provided to achieve smooth rotation of stencil 40A in synchronism with the movement of fabric web 26. This may be achieved, for example, by an appropriate gear train operating on a ring gear which is associated with one or both ends of cylindrical stencil 40A.
  • a single or multiple jet array may be used which is made to traverse within cylindrical stencil 40A so that the entire width of fabric web 26 may be treated. Use of such traversing jet or jet array would preferably require incremental movement of fabric web 26, as discussed above.
  • FIG 11 depicts an overall view of an apparatus designed to use a combination manifold/stream forming/stream interrupting apparatus 50, which is depicted in more detail in Figures 12 through 17.
  • Pump 8 is used to pump, via suitable conduits 4, 10, a working fluid such as water from a suitable source of supply 2 through an appropriate filter 6 to a high pressure supply duct 52, which in turn supplies water at suitable dynamic pressure (e.g., between 21.4 Bars absolute (300 p.s.i.g.) and 205 Bars absolute (3,000 p.s.i.g.) to the manifold apparatus 50.
  • suitable dynamic pressure e.g., between 21.4 Bars absolute (300 p.s.i.g.) and 205 Bars absolute (3,000 p.s.i.g.
  • conduits 136 for directing the control fluid for example, slightly pressurized air as supplied from source 130, and valves 134 by which the flow of control fluid may be selectively established or interrupted in response to pattern information supplied by pattern data source 132.
  • establishing the flow of control fluid to manifold apparatus 50 via conduits 136 pressurized no higher than approximately one-twentieth of the pressure of the high velocity water, causes an interruption in the flow of high velocity water emanating from manifold apparatus 50 and striking the substrate placed against backing member 21.
  • interrupting such control fluid flow causes the flow of high velocity water to impact the substrate 26 placed against backing member 21.
  • manifold assembly 50 is comprised of five basic structures: high pressure supply gallery assembly 60 (which is mounted in operable association with high pressure supply duct 52), grooved chamber assembly 70, clamping assembly 90, control fluid conduits 136, and spaced barrier plate assembly 100.
  • Supply gallery assembly 60 is comprised of an "L"-shaped member, into one leg of which is machined a uniform notch 62 which extends, uninterrupted, along the entire length of the assembly 50.
  • a series of uniformly spaced supply passages 64 are drilled through the side wall 66 of assembly 60 to the corresponding side wall of notch 62, whereby notch 62 may be supplied with high pressure water from high pressure supply duct 52, the side of which may be appropriately milled, drilled, and connected to side wall 66 and the end of respective supply passages 64.
  • Slotted chamber assembly 70 is comprised of an elongate member having an inverted hook-shaped cross-section, and having an extending leg 72 into which have been machined a series of closely spaced parallel slots or grooves 74 each having a width approximately equal to the width of the desired high velocity treatment stream, and, associated with each slot, a series of communicating control fluid passages, shown in greater detail in Figures 14 through 17. These control passages are connected to control fluid conduits 136, through which is supplied a flow of low pressure control fluid during those intervals in which the flow of high pressure fluid flowing through slots 74 is to be interrupted.
  • control fluid passages are comprised of a pair of slot intercept passages 76 spaced along the base of each slot and connected to an individual elongate chamber 78 which is aligned with the axis of its respective slot 74.
  • Each slot 74 has associated with it a respective chamber 78, which in turn is connected, via respective individual control supply passages to a respective control fluid conduit 136.
  • chambers 78 may be made by drilling a passage of the desired length from the barrier plate (104) side of chamber assembly 70, then plugging the exit hole in a manner appropriate to contain the relatively low pressure control fluid.
  • Grooved chamber assembly 70 is positioned, via clamping assembly 90, within supply gallery assembly 60 so that its "C"-shaped chamber is facing notch 62, thereby forming a high pressure distribution reservoir chamber 84 in which, as depicted in Figures 14 and 15, high pressure water enters notch 62 via passages 64, enters reservoir chamber 84, and flows through slots 74 towards the substrate 26.
  • Clamping assembly 90 is provided along its length with jacking screws 92 as well as bolts 94 which serve to securely attach clamping assembly 90 to supply gallery assembly 60 along the side opposite barrier plate assembly 100.
  • slotted chamber assembly 70 provides for slots 74 to be entirely covered over the portion of slots closest to reservoir chamber 84, but provides for slots 74 to be uncovered or open over the portion of slots nearest barrier plate assembly 100, and particularly over that portion of the slots 74 opposite and immediately downstream of slot intercept passages 76.
  • spaced barrier plate assembly 100 Associated with supply gallery assembly 60 and attached thereto via tapered spacing supports 102 is spaced barrier plate assembly 100, comprising a rigid plate 104 having an edge which is positioned to be just outside the path of the high velocity stream as the stream leaves the confines of slot 74 and exits from the end of chamber assembly 70, and crosses the plane defined by plate 104.
  • elongate backing plate 103 is securely attached to the inside surface of plate 104, via screws 105 positioned along the length of plate 104. Screws 106, which thread into threaded holes in spacing supports 102, are used to fix the position of plate 104 following alignment adjustment via threaded alignment bolts 108.
  • Bolts 108 are associated with alignment guide 110 which is, at the time of machine set up, attached to the base of supply gallery assembly 60 via screws 112. By turning bolts 108, precise and reproducible changes in the relative elevation of plate 104, and thereby the clearance between the distal or upstanding edge of plate 104 and the path of the high velocity fluid jet(s), may be made. After the plate 104 is brought into satisfactory alignment relative to slots 74, screws 106 may be tightened and alignment guide 110, with bolts 108, may be removed, thereby fixing the edge of plate 104 in proper relation to the base of slots 74.
  • Figures 14 and 15 depicts a fluid jet(s) impacting the substrate 26 perpendicular to the plane of tangency to the surface of support roll 21 at the point of impact; in some cases, however, it may be advantageous to direct the fluid jet(s) at a small angle relative to such plane, in either direction (i.e., either into or along the direction of rotation of roll 21).
  • inclination angles are about twenty degrees or less, but may be more for some applications.
  • a relatively low pressure control fluid e.g., air
  • a relatively low pressure control fluid e.g., air
  • this relatively slight pressure introduced by the control fluid causes the selected high velocity stream to leave the confines of the slot 74 and strike the barrier plate rather than the substrate, where its energy is dissipated, leaving the substrate untouched by the energetic stream.
  • a separate electrically actuated air valve such as the Tomita Tom-Boy JC-300, manufactured by Tomita Co., Ltd., No. 18-16 1 Chome, Ohmorinaka, Ohta-ku, Tokyo, Japan, is associated with each control stream conduit.
  • a valve actuating signal may be generated by conventional computer means, i.e., via an EPROM or from magnetic media, and routed to the respective valves, whereby the high velocity treatment streams may be selectively and intermittently actuated in accordance with supplied pattern data.
  • FIG 17 is a section view taken through lines XVII-XVII of Figure 16, and diagrammatically indicates the effects of control fluid flow in conduits 136.
  • low pressure control fluid is flowing in control stream conduits 136 identified as “A” and “C”
  • no control fluid is flowing in conduits 136 identified as “B” and “D”.
  • conduits "A” and “C” the high velocity jets 120A and 120C, respectively, have been dislodged from the lateral walls of slots 74 and are being deflected on a trajectory which will terminate on the inner surface of barrier plate 104.
  • conduits 136 identified as "B" and "D”; as a consequence, the high velocity jets 120B and 120D, laterally defined by the walls of slots 74, are on a trajectory which will avoid the upstanding edge of barrier plate 104 and terminate on the surface of roll 21, or substrate 26 supported thereby.
  • a fabric consisting of a one hundred per cent (100%) polyester 1x1 plain weave was first desized, scoured, mercerized, and bleached. It was then padded with a fluorocarbon water repellent material, in accordance with recommended practice, and dried.
  • the fluorocarbon material used was Scotchguard FC831, marketed by Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Company of St. Paul, Minnesota.
  • An apparatus similar to that depicted in Figures 11 through 17 was used.
  • the water pressure was maintained at 41.8 Bars absolute (600 p.s.i.g.)
  • the control fluid was air, which was varied in pressure from 0.14 to 5.76 Bars absolute (2 to 70 p.s.i.g.) in response to externally supplied pattern information.
  • the water stremas remained uninterrupted.
  • the fabric was positioned approximately 4.398 mm (0.37 inch) from the exit apertures of slots 74. Circumferential roll speed was five yards per minute.
  • the fabric was then padded with a conventional aqueous disperse dye and heated, in a conventional manner, to set or fix the dye. The dye was able to overcome the hydrophobic treatment and wet the fabric only in those areas where the fabric had been and remained wetted by the high velocity water streams. In other areas, the aqueous dye was unable to penetrate the fibers, and little dyeing took place.
  • the resulting patterned fabric is shown in Figures 18 through 21.
  • the dyed pattern is apparent on both the front and the back of the fabric, but is somewhat more pronounced on that side of the fabric which was closest to the high velocity water streams. Some shifting of the warp yarns of the fabric within the dyed pattern area is apparent.
  • a one hundred per cent (100%) cotton broadcloth fabric was desized, scoured, mercerized and bleached. It was then padded with a fluorocarbon water repellent as in Example 1 and dried. A pattern was then imparted to the fabric by selectively wetting out the fabric with a high velocity water jet, as in Example 1. The resulting selectively wetted fabric was then padded with a conventional fiber reactive cotton dye and sodium hydroxide. It was wrapped in polyethylene and aged at room temperature for 4 hours. Then it was rinsed and dried. The resulting fabric exhibited excellent dyed patterning in the treated (i.e., wetted) areas, and showed little dye pick-up in the untreated areas.
  • a nylon/lycra warp knit fabric was padded with a fluorochemical water repellent and dried. It was then selectively wetted as in Example 1 and dyed at a low temperature 60°C (140°F) in a jet dyeing machine using a conventional acid dye. The resulting fabric exhibited excellent dyed patterning in the treated (i.e., wetted) areas, and showed little dye pick-up in the untreated areas.
  • the mechanism by which the dyed pattern is generated involves the temporary neutralization or overcoming of the hydrophobic or anti-wetting characteristics of the finish applied to the surface of the starting fabric in those areas impacted by the water streams. It is thought that the high velocity water stream "forces" the fabric yarns to wet in the areas of impact by overcoming the water repelling nature of the hydrophobic coating, and also perhaps removes a portion of the coating in the areas of stream impact, thereby possibly lowering the threshold at which the fabric can be made to wet.
  • the wetting of the fabric in the stream impact areas may be seen clearly in Figures 22 through 25, which show the progressive drying of a fabric subjected to a high velocity water stream treatment as disclosed herein, as seen using transmitted light.
  • Figure 22 was taken immediately after a treated and dried sample of fabric was wet by placing the sample under a gentle stream of faucet water;
  • Figures 23, 24, and 25 show the same fabric twenty, fifty, and sixty minutes after wetting.
  • the water defines the pattern on the fabric; the pattern becomes less and less apparent as the water in the wetted areas of the fabric evaporates.
  • Figure 25 i.e., after sixty minutes
  • the only pattern indicator after the water has evaporated is the warp yarn shift caused by the high velocity water streams.
  • the resulting textile products exhibit a distinctive "batik" dyed appearance, yet have the general water-repellent character associated with fabrics treated with Scotchguard or other water-repellent treatments, thereby avoiding additional post-process treatments with hydrophobic agents and minimizing production costs.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
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  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Decoration Of Textiles (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Claims (6)

  1. Verfahren zum Färben von ausgewählten Bereichen der Oberfläche eines textilen Gewebes mit einem wässrigen Farbstoff zur Ausbildung eines Musters darauf, wobei das Verfahren die folgenden Stufen aufweist:
    (a) Bereitstellung eines im wesentlichen trockenen Gewebes, das eine Oberfläche hat, die eine wasserunlösliche Zusammensetzung trägt, wobei diese Zusammensetzung der Gewebeoberfläche eine im wesentlichen gleichmäßige hydrophobe Eigenschaft verleiht;
    (b) Ausrichtung einer Wasserströmung mit hoher Geschwindigkeit gegen die das Muster aufweisenden ausgewählten Bereiche der Gewebeoberfläche, wobei die WasserStrömung eine genügende Geschwindigkeit hat, um die hydrophobe Eigenschaft der Gewebeoberfläche zu überwinden und die Gewebeoberfläche in den ausgewählten Bereichen zu nässen, wobei die Gewebeoberfläche im übrigen im wesentlichen ungenäßt verbleibt;
    (c) Berührung der Gewebeoberfläche mit einem wässrigen Farbstoff, wobei der Farbstoff das Gewebe nur in den durch die Wasserströmung bereits genäßten ausgewählten Bereichen wesentlich näßt und durch das Gewebe zurückgehalten wird und im übrigen durch die hydrophobe Eigenschaft der ungenäßten Gewebeoberfläche zurückgestoßen wird;
    (d) Fixierung des durch das Gewebe in den genäßten Bereichen zurückgehaltenen Farbstoffs.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, bei welchem das Gewebe ein gewebtes Gewebe ist und bei welchem die Wasserströmung innerhalb der ausgewählten Bereichen Kettgarne verschiebt.
  3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, bei welchem die Wasserströmung in den ausgewählten Bereichen einen Teil der wasserunlöslichen Zusammensetzung entfernt.
  4. Textiles Gewebe mit einer Oberfläche, die darauf ein durch einen wässrigen Farbstoff ausgebildetes gefärbtes Muster trägt, wobei das Gewebe eine wasserunlösliche hydrophobe Zusammensetzung hat, die über die Gewebeoberfläche verteilt ist, wobei die Konzentration dieser Zusammensetzung in den Bereichen der Oberfläche, welche den Farbstoff enthalten, wesentlich geringer ist als in den anderen Oberflächenbereichen, wobei diese anderen Bereiche zusammengefaßt eine im wesentlichen einheitliche Konzentration der Zusammensetzung haben.
  5. Gewobenes textiles Gewebe, das aus Garnen besteht, die in der Kettrichtung verlaufen, und Garnen, die in der Füllrichtung verlaufen, und das eine Oberfläche hat, die ein darauf durch einen wässrigen Farbstoff ausgebildetes gefärbtes Muster trägt, wobei das Gewebe eine wasserunlösliche hydrophobe Zusammensetzung hat, die über die Gewebeoberfläche in Bereichen verteilt ist, welche das gefärbte Muster tragen, sowie auch in anderen Bereichen neben diesen gefärbten Musterbereichen, wobei die anderen Bereiche kollektiv eine im wesentlichen einheitliche Konzentration der Zusammensetzung haben und wobei die in der Kettrichtung verlaufenden Garne wenigstens in Teilen der das gefärbte Muster tragenden Bereiche verschoben sind.
  6. Textiles Gewebe mit einer Oberfläche, die darauf ein Muster trägt, wobei das Muster durch mit Wasser genäßte Oberflächenbereiche des Gewebes definiert ist, die neben anderen Bereichen der Oberfläche, welche nicht durch Wasser genäßt sind, liegen, wobei das Gewebe eine wasserunlösliche hydrophobe Zusammensetzung hat, die über die Gewebeoberfläche unter Einschluß der genäßten Bereiche verteilt ist, und eine im wesentlichen einheitliche Konzentration der Zusammensetzung in den anderen, ungenäßten Bereichen des Gewebes aufweist.
EP88303745A 1987-05-01 1988-04-26 Verfahren zur Herstellung von Mustern auf Gewebe und hergestelltes Material Expired - Lifetime EP0289263B1 (de)

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AT88303745T ATE81687T1 (de) 1987-05-01 1988-04-26 Verfahren zur herstellung von mustern auf gewebe und hergestelltes material.

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US4510587A 1987-05-01 1987-05-01
US45105 1987-05-01

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EP0289263A2 EP0289263A2 (de) 1988-11-02
EP0289263A3 EP0289263A3 (en) 1989-08-02
EP0289263B1 true EP0289263B1 (de) 1992-10-21

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EP (1) EP0289263B1 (de)
JP (1) JPS6445880A (de)
AT (1) ATE81687T1 (de)
AU (1) AU609126B2 (de)
CA (1) CA1317704C (de)
DE (1) DE3875368T2 (de)
DK (1) DK232288A (de)
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CH689291B5 (de) * 1994-06-03 1999-08-13 Clariant Finance Bvi Ltd Verfahren zur Herstellung von Reservedruck-Faerbungen.
US20120031328A1 (en) * 2010-08-04 2012-02-09 Love Iii Franklin S Apparatus for controlled application of liquid streams to a substrate with impingement jet mounting system
US20120034388A1 (en) * 2010-08-04 2012-02-09 Love Iii Franklin S Apparatus and method for controlled application of liquid streams to a substrate

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE940222C (de) * 1954-05-01 1956-03-15 Bocholter Faerberei Verfahren zum Entfernen von Druckfarbenueberschuss aus Textilien
DE2020445A1 (de) * 1970-04-27 1971-11-18 Jakob Messner Verfahren zum kontinuierlichen mehrfarbigen Bedrucken von Bahnenmaterial unter Verwendung von Duesen zum Farbauftragen und entsprechend der Geschwindigkeit gesteuertem Faerbemitteldruck und gesteuerter Duesenoffenzeit

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NZ224437A (en) 1991-04-26
CA1317704C (en) 1993-05-18
JPS6445880A (en) 1989-02-20
ATE81687T1 (de) 1992-11-15
EP0289263A3 (en) 1989-08-02
DK232288A (da) 1988-11-02
DK232288D0 (da) 1988-04-28
DE3875368D1 (de) 1992-11-26
AU1533688A (en) 1988-11-03
DE3875368T2 (de) 1993-05-19
AU609126B2 (en) 1991-04-26
EP0289263A2 (de) 1988-11-02

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