EP0193941B1 - Procédé et dispositif pour coudre une fermeture à curseur sur un vêtement - Google Patents

Procédé et dispositif pour coudre une fermeture à curseur sur un vêtement Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0193941B1
EP0193941B1 EP86102893A EP86102893A EP0193941B1 EP 0193941 B1 EP0193941 B1 EP 0193941B1 EP 86102893 A EP86102893 A EP 86102893A EP 86102893 A EP86102893 A EP 86102893A EP 0193941 B1 EP0193941 B1 EP 0193941B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
slider
pair
slide fastener
sewing
fastener
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP86102893A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0193941A3 (en
EP0193941A2 (fr
Inventor
Ronald J. Boser
Shigeru Tanaka
Hiroshi Yoshioka
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
YKK Corp
Original Assignee
Yoshida Kogyo KK
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US06/708,727 external-priority patent/US4593635A/en
Priority claimed from JP60046118A external-priority patent/JPS61206403A/ja
Application filed by Yoshida Kogyo KK filed Critical Yoshida Kogyo KK
Publication of EP0193941A2 publication Critical patent/EP0193941A2/fr
Publication of EP0193941A3 publication Critical patent/EP0193941A3/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0193941B1 publication Critical patent/EP0193941B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H37/00—Machines, appliances or methods for setting fastener-elements on garments
    • A41H37/06—Setting slide or glide fastener elements
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44B—BUTTONS, PINS, BUCKLES, SLIDE FASTENERS, OR THE LIKE
    • A44B19/00—Slide fasteners
    • A44B19/42—Making by processes not fully provided for in one other class, e.g. B21D53/50, B21F45/18, B22D17/16, B29D5/00
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/06—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding
    • D05B35/064—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding for attaching slide fasteners
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/10—Edge guides
    • D05B35/105—Guiding while stretching the workpiece, e.g. by means of weighted clips

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of and an apparatus for sewing a slide fastener to a pair of fabric pieces, e.g. of a curtain, a tent or a lady's dress. It relates to the field of copending application for U.S. Patent, Serial No. 535,729 filed September 26, 1983.
  • a concealed slide fastener 1 comprises a pair of fastener stringers 4, 4, each stringer including a stringer tape 2 having an inner longitudinal edge folded on itself supporting a row of coupling elements 3 attached to the tape edge.
  • the opposed rows of coupling elements 3, 3 are brought into and out of intermeshing engagement by a slider 5 which is slidably mounted on the rows of coupling elements 3, 3.
  • the slider 5 has a slider body disposed on the coupling-element side of the concealed slide fastener 1 and a pull tab pivotally connected to the slider body and projecting therefrom through a seam-like junction between the folded edges of the opposed stringer tapes 2, 2.
  • the slider 5 is moved on the rows of coupling elements 3, 3 to a bottom end stop (not shown) to uncouple the opposed stringers 4, 4 except at their bottom end portions.
  • the uncoupled stringers 4, 4 are simultaneously sewn to the respective fabric pieces 7, 7 with sewn stitches 12, 12 along a pair of folding line of the respective stringer tapes 2, 2, as shown in Figure 3.
  • each stringer 4 is unfolded until the coupling elements 3 are erected with their head portions 10 directed downwardly, and the coupling elements 3 and the element-supporting tape edge of each stringer 4 are slidably received in a respective one of a pair of parallel downwardly opening grooves 8, 8 in a presser foot 9 of the sewing machine.
  • a pair of parallel sewing needles 11,11 are reciprocable through a pair of vertical holes in the presser foot 9.
  • the two stringers 4, 4 are superimposed over the respective fabric pieces 7, 7 in such a manner that initially-outer (as seen in Figures 1 and 2) longitudinal edges of the opposed stringer tapes 2, 2 are directed inwardly, i.e. toward each other.
  • this conventional method causes problems in the case where a plurality of the concealed slide fasteners 1 are successively sewn to successive pairs of the fabric pieces 7, 7 and in which the sewn concealed slide fasteners 1 are temporarily stacked and are then supplied one after another to a finishing station where the opposed stringers 4, 4 of each concealed slide fastener 1 are coupled by moving the slider 5.
  • the present invention seeks to provide a method and apparatus for sewing a slide fastener to a pair of fabric pieces, in which a pair of opposed fastener stringers with the fabric pieces sewn thereto can be coupled together smoothly and quickly without occurrence of any objectionable inward bulge of the fabric pieces between the opposed stringers.
  • the present invention further seeks to provide a method and apparatus for sewing a plurality of slide fasteners one after another to successive pairs of fabric pieces, in which a pair of opposed fastener stringers of the individual slide fastener with the fabric pieces sewn thereto can be coupled together smoothly and quickly without occurrence of any objectionable inward bulge of the fabric pieces between the opposed stringers.
  • a method of sewing a slide fastener to a pair of fabric pieces including a pair of fastener stringers, each stringer including a stringer tape having an inner longitudinal edge supporting a row of coupling elements attached to the tape edge, there being a slider slidable on and along the fastener stringers for opening and closing the slide fastener, said method comprising the steps of: supplying the pair of fabric pieces to a sewing station defined by a sewing machine; uncoupling the pair of fastener stringers by moving the slider to the bottom end portion of the slide fastener; introducing the uncoupled pair of fastener stringers, as superimposed over the respective fabric pieces, to the sewing station from the top end portion of the slide fastener, while turning the pair of fastener stringers upside down in such a manner that the stringers assume twisted positions in mirror symmetry with respect to the longitudinal centerline of the slide fastener; sewing the pair of fastener stringers to the respecture fabric
  • an apparatus for sewing a slide fastener to a pair fo fabric pieces including a pair of fastener stringers, each stringer including a stringer tape having an inner longitudinal edge supporting a row of coupling elements attached to the tape edge, there being a slider slidable on and along the pair of fastener stringers for opening and closing the slide fastener
  • said apparatus comprising: a table; a sewing station defined by a double-needle sewing machine mounted on said table for receiving the slide fastener and the pair of fabric pieces in superimposed relationship; a first guide disposed upstream of said sewing station for guiding the pair of fabric pieces in laterally spaced relation to said sewing station; a second guide supported on said table and disposed above said first guide for supporting the slide fastener with the pair of fastener stringers uncoupled, and for guiding the uncoupled pair of fastener stringers to said sewing station so as to turn the stringers upside down in such a manner that the stringers
  • Figures 9 through 13 show an apparatus for sewing a concealed slide fastener 1 to a pair of fabric pieces 7, 7.
  • the apparatus generally comprises a table 13, a sewing machine 15 mounted centrally on the table 13 and defining a sewing station 14, a fabric guide 16 supported on the table 13 upstream of the sewing station 14, a slide-fastener guide 17 supported on the table 13 and disposed above the fabric guide 16, a gripper mechanism 18 mounted on the table downstream of the sewing station 14 for horizontal linear movement, a stacker 19 disposed beneath the gripper mechanism 18, a sewn-product guide 20 disposed downstream of the sewing station 14 for vertical movement, and a slider-moving unit 21 ( Figures 10 and 11) disposed beneath the sewn-product guide 20 for horizontal linear movement.
  • the sewing machine 15 may be a conventional type on the market. It includes a presser foot 9, a pair of feed dog (not shown), and a pair of sewing needles 11, 11. As shown in Figure 3, the presser foot 9 has in its bottom surface a pair of parallel grooves 8, 8, each receptive of an inner longitudinal edge of the respective stringer tape 2 together with a row of coupling elements 3 attached thereto. Upon depression of a start button (not shown), the presser foot 9 is lowered and then the sewing of the concealed slide fastener 1 and the fabric pieces 7, 7 in "lock stitch” takes place. This lock-stitch sewing is followed by back-tacking, cutting the sewing threads and raising of the presser foot 9 in this order. The details of the sewing machine 15 itself are not pertinent here and its detailed description is omitted for clarity.
  • the fabric guide 16 includes a pair of transparent horizontal guide plates 22, 22 spaced from the upper surface of the table 13 by a gap substantially equal to the thickness of the individual fabric piece 7, and a pair of guide rods 23, 23 mounted on the front or upstream side of the table 13.
  • the pair of convergent guide rods 23, 23 lie in a horizontal plane substantially coplanar to the upper surface of the table 13.
  • the slide-fastener guide 17 includes an elongated flanged guiding plate 24 sloping downwardly toward the sewing station 14 and an elongated flanged auxiliary guiding plate 28 disposed upstream of the guiding plate 24 and sloping upwardly toward the guiding plate 24, for guiding the uncoupled stringers 4, 4 over the two guiding plates 24, 28.
  • the slide-fastener guide 17 also includes a pair of spaced track bodies 25, 25 mounted on the guiding plate 24 at one end thereof adjacent to the sewing station 14 for guiding the respective coupling element rows 3, 3 in such a manner that each coupling element row 3 assumes an erected position.
  • a slider detector 26 is mounted on the guiding plate 24 and is pivotable vertically between the two track bodies 25, 25 when the slider 5 on the concealed slide fastener 1 passes through the space between the two track bodies 25, 25.
  • the detector 26 is associated with a microswitch 27 which is operative, in response to the pivotal movement of the detector 26, to terminate the advance of the slide fastener 1.
  • the purposes of the gripper mechanism 18 are to keep the tension of both the slide fastener 1 and the fabric pieces 7, 7 to a constant degree during the sewing, thus not only causing a uniform rate of sewing but making the sewn stitches 12, 12 aligned with the respective folding lines of the opposed stringers 4, 4.
  • the gripper mechanism 18 also serves to quickly discharge the sewn product, i.e. the slide fastener 1 with the fabric pieces sewn thereto.
  • the gripper mechanism 18 includes a pair of laterally spaced grippers 29, 29, each gripper 29 being composed of an upper grip member 33 and a lower grip member 30.
  • the lower grip member 30 is secured to a horizontal connector 31 in the form of a rod and is disposed slightly above the upper surface of the table 13.
  • the upper grip member 33 is pivotally connected to the connector 31 near the downstream end of the lower grip member 30 by a pin 32.
  • the upper grip member 33 is also connected to an air cylinder 36 via a link 34 which is connected to a piston rod 35 of the air cylinder 36.
  • Such two air cylinders 36,36 are pivotally mounted on the connector 31 remotely from the grippers 29, 29. Upon energization or de-energization of the two air cylinders 36, 36, each piston rod 35 projects or is retracted to close or open the respective gripper 29.
  • a holder 37 Fixed to the downstream side of the sewing machine 15 is a holder 37 from which a guide rail 38 extends horizontally in the direction of discharging the sewn product.
  • a free end of the guide rail 38 is fixed to a bracket 40 supported by a hanger rod 39.
  • a slide 41 is slidably mounted on the guide rail 38.
  • an endless belt 44 is wound about a pair of pulleys 42, 43 rotatably mounted on the holder 37 and the bracket 40, respectively, the endless belt 44 being fixed to the slide 41.
  • the pulley 42 is connected to a servo motor (not shown) which drives the slide 41 selectively forwardly (downstream) and backwardly (upstream) and which changes the rate of movement of the slide 41 depending on the load.
  • the downstream end of the connector 31 of the gripper mechanism 18 is integrally connected to a transverse shaft 45 rotatably supported by the slide 41.
  • the backward or upstream movement of the slide 41 is limited by a stop (not shown) projecting therefrom and engageable with the holder 37; thus the backward movement of the two grippers 29, 29 terminates in a retracted position close to the sewing station 14.
  • the forward or downstream movement of the slide 41 is limited by a contact member 48 extending therefrom and engageable with an actuator of a microswitch 47 which is adjustably mounted on a support rod 46 extending between the holder 37 and the bracket 40 in parallel relationship to the guide rail 38.
  • the microswitch 47 Upon its actuation, the microswitch 47 produces a signal to stop the rotation of the non-illustrated servo motor, thus terminating the forward movement of the slide 41. As a result, the forward movement of the two grippers 29, 29 terminates in an advanced position, which is adjustable by changing the position of the microswitch 48 on the support rod 46.
  • the transverse shaft 46 is operatively connected to a drive, such as a motor or an air cylinder, for turning the transverse shaft 46 through a predetermined angle.
  • a drive such as a motor or an air cylinder
  • the connector 31 of the gripper mechanism 18 is angularly movable about the transverse shaft 46 in the direction of an arrow b from the position (horizontal) of Figure 12 to the position (vertical in this embodiment) of Figure 13. This arrangement is particularly useful when a relatively long sewn product 49 is to be discharged without elongating the guide rail 38.
  • the stacker 19 is disposed beneath the gripper mechanism 18 for receiving the successive sewn products 49 (released from the gripping mechanism 18 as described below) one over another and for discharging a stack of the sewn products 49 out of the apparatus when the stack reaches a predetermined amount.
  • the stacker 19 includes a generally T-shaped hanger having a horizontal pipe 50 connected to an upper end of an arm 51 pivotally mounted on a base beneath the table 13.
  • An air cylinder 52 is pivotally supported by the base, and a piston rod 53 of the air cylinder 52 is pivotally connected to the arm 51 at a midportion thereof.
  • the piston rod 53 of the air cylinder 52 projects to cause the stacker 19 to pivotally move in the direction of an arrow d in Figure 13 from a retracted position (solid lines) to an advanced position (dash-and-dot lines) where the sewn product 49 released from the grippers 29, 29 is received on the transverse pipe 50.
  • the piston rod 53 of the air cylinder 52 is retracted, the stacker 19 is returned in the direction of an arrow e in Figure 13 to its original or retracted position, with the sewn product 49 hanging on the transverse pipe 50.
  • the sewn-product guide 20 is disposed downstream of the sewn station 14 and is vertically movable in the directions of arrows f and g by means of an air cylinder 54 supported by the holder 37.
  • the sewn-product guide 20, as shown in Figures 18A and 18B, has a downwardly opening guide channel 55.
  • the sewn-product guide 20 is lowered from the dash-and-dot-line position to the solid-line position in Figure 18A and the slide 5 (disposed at the lower end portion of the sewn product 49) is guided along the guide channel 55 of the guide to the slider-moving unit 21. While the slide fastener 1 is being sewn to the pair of fabric pieces 7, 7, the guide 20 is in raised position, as shown in Figure 10, so as not to obstruct the movement of the gripper mechanism 18.
  • the slider-moving unit 21, as shown in Figures 10 and 11, is disposed immediately downstream of the sewn-product guide 20 for linear movement to move the slider 5 from the bottom end stop (not shown) of the sewn slide fastener 1 toward the top end stops (not shown) to couple the opposed stringers 4, 4 through a predetermined length. As a result, the slider 5 has been moved to the region where the slide fastener 1 is sewn to the fabric pieces 7, 7.
  • the slider-moving unit 21 includes a slider catch 56 of a generally C-shape opening backwardly for receiving the slider 5, and a retainer 57 pivotally mounted on a lower portion of the catch 56 for retaining the slider 5 in the catch 56.
  • the catch 56 has a support rod 58 extending substantially downwardly ( Figures 14, 16, and 17) from the lower portion of the catch 56 at an angle thereto and terminating in an block on which an air cylinder 59 is pivotally mounted, a piston rod 60 of the air cylinder 59 being pivotally connected to the retainer 57.
  • a slide 62 is slidably mounted on a pair of parallel horizontal guide rails 61, 61 which is supported by the base (of the apparatus) beneath the table 13.
  • An endless belt 66 is wound around a pair of small-sized upper pulleys 63, 64 and a large-sized lower pulley 65 (all of the pulleys is rotatable on the base) and is fixed to the slide 62.
  • the two small-sized pulleys 63, 64 are disposed between the two guide rails 61, 61 and are spaced away from each other along the guide rails 61, while the large-sized pulley 65 is disposed below the guide rails 61.
  • the large-sized pulley 65 has a coaxial pinion 70 meshing with a rack 68 formed on a piston rod 69 of an air cylinder 67 which is pivotally supported by the base.
  • the pinion 70 and thus the large-sized pulley 65 is rotated counterclockwise in response to extension of the racked piston rod 69 of the air cylinder 67, the slider 62 is moved forwardly leftwardly away from the sewing station 14 along the guide rails 61, 61.
  • the slider 62 is then moved backwardly, i.e. rightwardly toward the sewing station 14 along the guide rails 61, 61.
  • the slider catch 56 is pivotally mounted on the slide 62 and is reciprocable, in response to the reciprocating movement of the slide 62, for pulling the slider 5 forwardly along the opposed stringers 4, 4 to close the sewn slide fastener 1 while the opposite end portions of the slide fastener 1 is held in position in a manner described below.
  • the slide 62 has a pair of parallel support rods 71, 71 extending downwardly from a lower end portion of the slide 62 and interconnected at their lower ends by a horizontal connector 72.
  • An air cylinder 73 is pivotally supported centrally on the horizontal connector 72, and a piston rod 74 of the air cylinder 73 is pivotally connected to the slider catch 56.
  • the piston rod 74 of the air cylinder 73 is retracted ( Figure 15)
  • the catch 56 is pivotally moved counterclockwise from the position of Figure 16 to the position of Figure 15 below the table 13 so as not to impede not only the movement of the gripper mechanism 18 but the discharging of the sewn -product 49.
  • the brake 75 is supported on the pair of guide rails 61, 61 at a fixed position adjacent to their upstream ends for temporarily stop the forward movement of the sewn product 49 to thereby facilitate the forward movement of the slider 5 on the sewn slide fastener 1 by the slider-moving unit 21.
  • the brake 75 includes a bracket 76 fixed to the guide rails 61, 61, an air cylinder 77 supported by the bracket 76, and a pressing member 79, in the form of a thin plate ( Figures 20A to 20G), to which a piston rod 78 of the air cylinder 77 is connected.
  • the pressing member 79 is raised in the direction of an arrow h from the position of Figure 18A and 18B for pressing the bottom end portion of the sewn product 49 against the lower surface of the product guide 20.
  • the pressing member 79 is returned to its original or lowered position ( Figure 18A) for releasing the sewn product 49.
  • a pair of fabric pieces 7, 7 is introduced into the sewing station 14 (only the two sewing needles 11, 11 are illustrated in Figures 19A - 19F), while a concealed slide fastener 1 is fully opened by moving the slider 5 and then the uncoupled stringers 4, 4 are turned upside down through the entire length of the slide fastener 1 except the bottom end portion thereof.
  • the concealed slide fastener 1 is introduced into the sewing station 14, with the opposed stringers 4, 4 superimposed over the respective fabric pieces 7, 7.
  • each fabric piece 7 passes over the respective guide rod 23 and then through the gap between the corresponding guide plate 22 and the upper surface of the table 13, as shown in Figure 9.
  • the concealed slide fastener 1 is opened manually and is then placed over the guide plate 24 while turning the uncoupled stringers 4, 4 upside down, as shown in Figure 9.
  • the leading end portion of each stringer 4 is introduced into the sewing station 14 via the respective track body 25.
  • the leading end portion of each stringer 4 is superimposed over the respective fabric piece 7 in such a manner that the coupling elements 8 are erected with the head portions 10 directed downwardly.
  • the gripper mechanism 18 is diposed at a position near the presser foot 9 in the sewing station 14, with each gripper 29 open. And the sewn-product guide 20 is in raised position so as not to interfere with the gripper mechanism 18, as shown in Figure 11.
  • the slide-moving unit 21 is in retracted position near the sewing station 14, the slider catch 56 being retracted below the table 13.
  • the brake 75 is also lowered or retracted below the table 13.
  • the grippers 29 pull the sewn product 49 forwardly to discharge the same from the sewing station 14 under a constant tension smaller than the tension under which the sewn product 49 is advanced by the feed dog (not shown) of the sewing machine 15.
  • This discharging tension is virtually automatically controlled by the non-illustrated servo motor that is the drive source for moving the slider 41 of the gripper mechanism 18.
  • the detector 26 is pivotally moved upwardly to actuate the microswitch 27 associated therewith, whereupon the microswitch 27 issues a command signal to the sewing machine 15 to start back-tacking
  • the sewing threads are cut and the presser foot 9 is then raised to terminate the operation of the sewing machine 15.
  • the sewn stitches 12 extend from the leading end of the slide fastener 1 and terminates immediately short of the slider 5 disposed at the bottom end portion of the slide fastener 1, thus leaving the bottom end portions of the opposed stringers 4, 4 not sewn and hence floating from the fabric pieces 7, 7.
  • the gripper mechanism 18 is continued to discharge the sewn product 49 that has been removed from the sewing station 14.
  • the bottom end portion of the sewn slide fastener 1, including the slider 5 is introduced into the sewn-product guide 20. Then the slider 5 of the sewn slide fastener 1 is blocked or caught by the slider catch 56 of the slider-moving unit 21, as shown in Figure 20D. This blocking is detected by a photosensor (not shown) which then issues a command signal to energize the air cylinder 59, ( Figures 16 and 17), causing the retainer 57 to pivot to keep the slider body 5 in the catch 56.
  • the brake 75 is rendered inoperative to release the trailing end of the sewn product 49, while the gripper mechanism 18 is continued to discharge the sewn product 49. More specifically, in discharging the sewn product 49, when the contact member 48 on the slide 41 of the gripper mechanism 18 hits the actuator of the microswitch 47, a command signal is issued from the switch 47 to stop the non-illustrated servo motor which is a drive for the endless belt 44. The discharging of the sewn product 49 of the gripper mechanism 18 is terminated.
  • the connector 31 is pivotally moved on the slide 41 to direct downwardly, during which time the stacker 19 is pivotally moved, by the action of the air cylinder 52, forwardly of the base beneath the table 13, as shown in Figure 13.
  • the grippers 29 at the end portion of the connector 31 are opened to release the sewn product 49, which thus falls onto the transverse pipe 50 of the stacker 19.
  • the stacker 19 and the gripper mechanism 18 are returned to their original or upstream positions.
  • the slider-moving unit 21 is also returned to its original or upstream position near the sewing station 14, during which time the slide-moving unit 21 remains retracted below the table 13. And the product guide 20 is returned to it raised position. Now the apparatus is in condition for start of the next cycle of the sewing operation, and a single cycle has been completed.
  • Figures 21 and 22 show the sewn product including the concealed slide fastener 1 sewn to the pair of fabric pieces 7, 7 according to the present invention.
  • the opposed coupling element rows 8, 8 can be coupled smoothly and quickly by manually moving the slider 5 toward the top end stops (not shown), as shown in Figure 23, during which time the opposed stringers 4, 4 are progressively turned back in mirror symmetry.
  • the present method is particularly useful for the case in which a plurality of concealed slide fasteners are sewn to successive pairs of the fabric pieces and in which the sewn products are temporarily stacked and then supplied one after another to a finishing station where the opposed fastener stringers of each concealed slide fastener are coupled by manually moving the slider.
  • the slider-moving unit is retractable below the upper surface of the table so as not to interfere with the gripper mechanism, it is possible to sew a plurality of concealed slide fasteners successively to successive pairs of fabric pieces without impeding the sewing and discharging operations, causing an improved rate of production.
  • the apparatus of the invention is especially useful in the sewing of concealed slide fasteners, as described above. However, it is clear that exposed slide fasteners may as well be sewn with the apparatus of the invention.
  • Such assembly is illustrated in Figures 24A - 24E.
  • tapes 2',2' of stringers 4',4' are aligned for sewing along stich lines 12',12' located further from the coupling element rows 3',3', then in the concealed slide fasteners embodiment of Figures 19A - 19F.
  • An exposed type fastener is employed, so that coupling element rows 3' face downwardly, toward the fabric 7',7' in the initial setup shown in Figure 24A.
  • Figures 26 - 28 illustrate a modified slider-moving unit 21' having an alternative slider holding mechanism.
  • the slider-holding mechanism includes a slider catch 56' for receiving the slider 5, and a retainer 57' for retaining the slider 5 in the catch 56'.
  • the slider catch 56' is mounted on a piston rod 74' of a first vertical air cylinder 37' fixedly secured to a lower portion of a slide 62', while the retainer 57' is mounted on a piston rod 60' of a second vertical air cylinder 59' fixedly secured to a lower portion of the catch 56'.
  • the slide 62' is slidably mounted on a pair of vertically spaced horizontal guide rails 61',61' which is supported by the base (of the apparatus) beneath the table 13.
  • an endless belt 66' is wound around a pair of small-sized upper pulleys 63', 64' and a large-sized lower pulley 65' and is fixedly secured to the slide 62', all the pulleys 63', 64', 65' being rotatable on the base of the apparatus.
  • the two small-sized pulleys 63', 64' are disposed between the two guide rails 61', 61' and are spaced away from each other along the guide rails 61', 61', while the large-sized pulley 65' is disposed below the guide rails 61',61'.
  • the large-sized pulley 65' is operatively connected to a drive 76', such as a rotary actuator, for rotation in opposite directions.
  • a drive 76' such as a rotary actuator
  • the slide 62' is moved forwardly (leftwardly) away from the sewing station 14 along the guide rails 61',61'.
  • the slide 62' is then moved backwardly (rightwardly) toward the sewing station 14 along the guide rails 61',61'.
  • the slider catch 56' along with the retainer 57', is reciprocable, in response to the reciprocating movement of the slide 62', for pulling the slider 5 forwardly along the opposed stringers 4, 4 to close the slide fastener 1 of the sewn product 49 while the opposite ends of the slide fastener 1 is held in position in a manner described below
  • the catch 56' is moved downwardly from the position of Figure 29C to the position of Figure 29A below the table 13 so as not to impede not only the movement of gripper mechanism 18 but the discharging of the sewn product 49.
  • the slider-moving unit 21' also includes a brake 75' supported on the guide rails 61',61' at a fixed position adjacent to their upstream ends to temporarily stop the forward movement of the sewn product 49 to thereby facilitate the forward movement of the slider 5 on the slide fastener 1 by the slider-holding mechanism, namely, the catch 56' and the retainer 57'.
  • the brake 75' includes a bracket 76' fixed to the guide rails 61', 61', a third vertical air cylinder 77' supported by the bracket 76', and a pressing member 79' mounted on a piston rod 78' of the third air cylinder 77'.
  • the pressing member 79' is raised in the direction of an arrow h' from the position of Figures 30A and 30B to the position of Figure 30C for pressing the bottom end portion of the slide fastener 1 against the lower surface of the sewn-product guide 20'.
  • the pressing member 79' is returned to its original or lowered position ( Figure 30A) for releasing the sewn product 49.
  • a pair of fabric pieces 7,7 is introduced into the sewing station 14, and a slide fastener 1 is fully opened by moving the slider 5 and then the uncoupled stringers 4,4 are turned upside down through the entire length of the slide fastener 1 except the bottom end portion thereof.
  • the slide fastener 1 is introduced into the sewing station 14, with the opposed stringers 4,4 superimposed over the respective fabric pieces 7,7.
  • each fabric piece 7 passes over the respective guide rod 23 and then through the gap between the corresponding guide plate 22 and the upper surface of the table 13.
  • the slide fastener 1 is opened manually and is then placed over the guide plate 24 while turning the uncoupled stringers 4,4 upside down.
  • the leading end portion of each stringer 4 is introduced into the sewing station 14 via the respective track body 25.
  • the leading end portion of each stringer 4 is superimposed over the respective fabric piece 7 in such a manner that the coupling elements 3 are erected with the head portions 10 directed downwardly.
  • the gripper mechanism 18 is disposed at a position near the presser foot 9 in the sewing station 14, with each gripper 29 open.
  • the sewn-product guide 20' is in raised position so as not to interfere with the gripper mechanism 18, as shown in Figure 26.
  • the slide-moving unit 21' is in retracted position near the sewing station 14, the slider catch 56' being retracted below the table 13.
  • the grippers 29 pull the sewn product 49 forwardly to discharge the same from the sewing station 14 under a constant tension smaller than the tension under which the sewn product 49 is advanced by the feed dog (not shown) of the sewing machine 15.
  • This discharging tension is automatically controlled by the non-illustrated servo motor that is the drive source for moving the slide 41 of the gripper mechanism 18.
  • the sewn stitches 12 extend from the leading end of the slide fastener 1 and terminate just short of the slider 5 disposed at the bottom end portion of the slide fastener 1, thus leaving the bottom end portions of the opposed stringers 4,4 not sewn, and hence floating, from the fabric pieces 7,7.
  • the gripper mechanism 18 continues to discharge the sewn product 49 that has been removed from the sewing station 14.
  • the bottom end portion of the sewn slide fastener 1, including the slider 5, is introduced into the sewn-product gide 20'. Then the slider 5 of the sewn slide fastener 1 is blocked or caught by the slider catch 56' of the slider-moving unit 21', as shown in Figure 8C. This blocking is detected by a photosensor (not shown) which then issues a command signal to energize the second air cylinder 59' ( Figures 29B and 29C), causing the retainer 57' to raise to hold the slider body 5 against the catch 56'.
  • the brake 75' is rendered inoperative to release the trailing end of the sewn product 49, while the gripper mechanism 18 continues to discharge the sewn product 49. More specifically, in discharging the sewn product 49, when the contact member 48 on the slide 41 of the gripper mechanism 18 hits the actuator of the microswitch 47, a command signal is issued from the switch 47 to stop the servo motor driving the endless belt 44. The discharging of the sewn product 49 of the gripper mechanism 18 is terminated. Then the connector 31 is pivotally moved on the slide 41 to direct downwardly, during which time the stacker 19 is privotally moved, by the action of the air cylinder 52, forwardly of the base beneath the table 13, as shown in Figure 13.
  • the grippers 29 at the end portion of the connector 31 are opened to release the sewn product 49, which thus falls onto the transverse pipe 50 of the stacker 19.
  • the stacker 19 and the gripper mechanism 18 are returned to their original or upstream positions.
  • the slider-moving unit 21' is also returned to its original or upstream position near the stations 14, during which time the slider-moving unit 21' remains retracted below the table 13.
  • the product guide 20' is returned to its raised position.
  • the slider-moving unit 21' is retractable below the top surface of the table 13 so as not to interfere with the gripper mechanism 18, it is possible to sew a plurality of slide fasteners 1 successively to successive pairs of fabric pieces 7,7 without impeding the sewing and discharging operations.
  • An advantage of the slider-moving unit 21' is that because the slider catch 56' and the retainer 57' are moved vertically, and an adequate horizontal stroke of the slider-moving unit 21' can be achieved, thus causing an improved rate of production.
  • the slider-moving unit 21' is particularly useful in the case where the sewn products 49 are relatively short, in which case the horizontal stroke of the gripper mechanism 18 must be short and the the slider catch 56' must start raising to project into the path of the sewn product 49 without delay after the gripper mechanism 18 has passed over the catch 56'. Further, the slider-moving unit 21' is simple in construction and hence inexpensive to manufacture.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Slide Fasteners (AREA)

Claims (8)

  1. Procédé de couture d'une fermeture à glissière (1, 1') sur une paire de morceaux (7, 7 ; 7', 7') de tissu, la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') comportant une paire de bandes d'accrochage (4, 4 ; 4', 4') de fermeture à glissière, chaque bande d'accrochage (4, 4') comportant un ruban (2, 2') de bande d'accrochage présentant un bord longitudinal intérieur qui porte une rangée d'éléments d'accouplement (3, 3') fixés au bord du ruban, un curseur (5), susceptible de coulisser sur les bandes d'accrochage (4 4 ; 4', 4') de fermeture à glissière, et le long de celles-ci, étant en place pour ouvrir et pour fermer la fermeture à glissière (1, 1'), ledit procédé comprenant les opérations suivantes : amener la paire de morceaux (7, 7 ; 7', 7') de tissu jusqu'à un poste de couture (14) défini par une machine à coudre (15) ; désaccoupler la paire de bandes d'accrochage (4, 4 ; 4', 4') de fermeture à glissière en déplaçant le curseur (5) jusqu'à la partie formant l'extrémité du bas de la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') ; introduire la paire de bandes d'accrochage désaccouplées (4, 4 ; 4', 4') de fermeture à glissière, superposées aux morceaux de tissu respectifs (7, 7 ; 7', 7'), jusqu'au poste de couture (14) à partir de la partie formant l'extrémité supérieure de la fermeture à glissière (1, 1'), tout en tournant la paire de bandes d'accrochage (4, 4 ; 4', 4') de fermeture à glissière à l'envers de manière telle que les bandes d'accrochage (4, 4 ; 4', 4') prennent des positions torses selon une symétrie par rapport à l'axe longitudinal médian de la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') ; coudre la paire de bandes d'accrochage (4, 4 ; 4', 4') aux morceaux de tissu respectifs (7, 7 ; 7', 7') à partir de la partie formant l'extrémité supérieure de la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') dans le poste de couture (14) ; tirer la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') par son extrémité supérieure, avec la paire de morceaux de tissu (7, 7 ; 7', 7') cousus sur elle, vers l'avant du poste de couture (14), au fur et à mesure que ladite couture progresse ; terminer ladite couture lorsque la partie formant l'extrémité inférieure de la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') approche du poste de couture (14) ; lors de l'achèvement de la couture, accoupler au moins partiellement la paire de bandes d'accrochage (4, 4 ; 4', 4') de fermeture à glissière afin de fermer la fermeture à glissière (1, 1'), en déplaçant le curseur (5) à partir de la partie formant l'extrémité inférieure de la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') jusque dans la zone où chaque bande d'accouplement (4, 4') de fermeture à glissière est cousine au morceau de tissu respectif (7, 7') ; et finalement évacuer la fermeture à glissière fermée (1, 1') avec la paire de morceaux de tissu (7, 7 ; 7', 7') cousins sur elle.
  2. Appareil destiné à coudre une fermeture à glissière (1, 1') sur une paire de morceaux (7, 7 ; 7', 7') de tissu, la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') comportant une paire de bandes d'accrochage (4, 4 ; 4' 4'), chaque bande d,accrochage comportant un ruban (2 2') de bande d'accrochage présentant un bord longitudinal intérieur qui porte une rangée d'éléments d'accouplement (3, 3') fixés au bord du ruban, un curseur (5) susceptible de coulisser sur la paire de bandes d'accrochage (4, 4 ; 4', 4') de fermeture à glissière et le long de celles-ci, étant mis en place afin d'ouvrir et de fermer la fermeture à glissière (1, 1'), ledit appareil comprenant : une table (13) ; un poste de couture (14) défini par une machine à coudre (15) à double aiguille montée sur ladite table (13) en vue de recevoir la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') et la paire de morceaux de tissu (7, 7 ; 7', 7') en superposition ; un premier guide (16) disposé en amont dudit poste de couture (14) en vue de guider la paire de morceaux (7, 7 ; 7', 7') de tissu en situation d'espacement latéral jusqu'audit poste de couture (14) ; un second guide (17) supporté par ladite table (13) et disposé au-dessus dudit premier guide (16), en vue de servir de support à la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') dont la paire de bandes d'accouplement (4, 4 ; 4', 4') de fermeture à glissière sont désaccouplées, et de guider la paire de bandes (4, 4 ; 4', 4') d'accouplement de fermeture à glissière désaccouplées jusqu'audit poste de couture (14) de façon à tourner les bandes d'accrochage à l'envers de manière telle que les bandes d'accrochage se trouvent placées dans des positions retournées, disposées symétriquement à l'axe longitudinal médian de la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') ; un mécanisme d'agrippement (18) disposé en aval dudit poste de couture (14) et susceptible d'aller et venir sur un premier trajet sensiblement horizontal, entre une position située en amont et une position située en aval, en vue d'entraîner la fermeture à glissière (1, 1'), avec la paire de morceaux (7, 7 ; 7', 7') de tissu cousus sur celle-ci, à partir dudit poste de couture (14) ; et une unité (21, 21') de déplacement de curseur disposée en aval dudit poste de couture (14) et susceptible d'effectuer un va-et-vient sur un second trajet parallèle audit premier trajet, en vue de déplacer le curseur (5) sur la paire de bandes d'accrochage (4, 4 ; 4', 4') de fermeture à glissière à partir de la zone formant l'extrémité inférieure de la fermeture à glissière (1, 1') jusque dans la zone où chaque bande d'accrochage de fermeture à glissière est cousue au morceau de tissu respectif (7, 7'), ladide unité (21, 21') de déplacement de curseur pouvant être retirée dudit second trajet de façon à ne pas faire obstacle au déplacement desdits morceaux (7, 7 ; 7', 7') de tissu sur ledit premier trajet.
  3. Appareil selon la revendication 2, comportant des moyens (75, 75') de freinage qui pressent en exerçant un frottement sur ladite fermeture à glissière (1, 1') à proximité de son extrémité inférieure avant le déplacement dudit curseur (5) au moyen de ladite unité (21, 21') de déplacement de curseur.
  4. Appareil selon la revendication 2 ou 3, dans lequel ledit mécanisme d'agrippement (18) comprend une paire de moyens d'accrochage (33, 30) espacés transversalement destinés à accrocher lesdites bandes d'accrochage (4, 4 ; 4', 4') respectives, et dans lequel ladite unité de déplacement de curseur (21, 21') peut être déplacée sélectivement pour atteindre le plan défini par la distance comprise entre les moyens d'accrochage (33, 30) espacés, ou sortir de celui-ci, lorsqu'ils se déplacent longitudinalement sur ledit premier trajet.
  5. Appareil selon une des revendications 2 à 4 dans lequel ladite unité (21, 21') de déplacement de curseur est amenée dans ledit premier trajet après que ledit mécanisme d'entraînement (18) se soit déplacé en aval de la position, située le plus en amont, de ladite unité de déplacement de curseur (21, 21').
  6. Appareil selon une des revendications 2 à 5, dans lequel ledit mécanisme d'agrippement (18) pivote hors dudit premier trajet horizontal à proximité de l'extrémité de son déplacement vers l'aval afin d'allonger le déplacement vers l'aval des tissus (7, 7').
  7. Appareil selon une des revendications 2 à 6, ladite unité (21') de déplacement de curseur comportant un coulisseau (62') disposé en dessous du premier trajet horizontal et susceptible d'effectuer un va-et-vient sur un second trajet horizontal, un organe de saisie (56') de curseur supporté par ledit coulisseau (62') et susceptible d'être déplacé verticalement par rapport à celui-ci en vue de recevoir le curseur (5), et un organe de retenue (57') porté par ledit organe de saisie (56') de curseur et susceptible d'être déplacé verticalement par rapport à celui-ci, en vue de presser ledit curseur (5) contre ledit organe de saisie (56') de curseur.
  8. Appareil selon la revendication 7, ladite unité de déplacement de curseur (21') comprenant en outre : un premier cylindre pneumatique vertical (73') fixé audit coulisseau (62') et comportant une tige (74') de piston sur laquelle est monté ledit organe de saisie (56') de curseur ; et un second cylindre pneumatique vertical (59') fixé audit organe de saisie (56') de curseur et comportant une tige (60') de piston sur laquelle est monté ledit organe de retenue (57').
EP86102893A 1985-03-06 1986-03-05 Procédé et dispositif pour coudre une fermeture à curseur sur un vêtement Expired - Lifetime EP0193941B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US06/708,727 US4593635A (en) 1985-03-06 1985-03-06 Method and apparatus for sewing a slide fastener to fabric pieces
US708727 1985-03-06
JP60046118A JPS61206403A (ja) 1985-03-08 1985-03-08 スライドフアスナ−用縫製機におけるスライダ−摺動装置
JP46118/85 1985-03-08

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0193941A2 EP0193941A2 (fr) 1986-09-10
EP0193941A3 EP0193941A3 (en) 1989-05-24
EP0193941B1 true EP0193941B1 (fr) 1992-01-29

Family

ID=26386241

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP86102893A Expired - Lifetime EP0193941B1 (fr) 1985-03-06 1986-03-05 Procédé et dispositif pour coudre une fermeture à curseur sur un vêtement

Country Status (9)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0193941B1 (fr)
KR (1) KR870001642B1 (fr)
AR (1) AR245512A1 (fr)
AU (1) AU559353B2 (fr)
BR (1) BR8601207A (fr)
CA (1) CA1253398A (fr)
DE (1) DE3683659D1 (fr)
ES (2) ES8700562A1 (fr)
FI (1) FI88626C (fr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0659247B2 (ja) * 1989-08-23 1994-08-10 吉田工業株式会社 スライドファスナーの製造方法
IT1400950B1 (it) * 2010-07-21 2013-07-05 Derim Srl Sistema di unione mediante cucitura di teli di materiali di diverso genere movimentati per mezzo di pinze trasportatrici e tensionatrici autonome tra loro ed azionate elettronicamente in sincronismo con la testa cucitrice.
CN112877923A (zh) * 2020-12-25 2021-06-01 珞石（山东）智能科技有限公司 用于裁片对位和缝制的可变形抓手

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS52139539A (en) * 1976-05-15 1977-11-21 Yoshida Kogyo Kk Slide fastener and method of attaching same
JPS60147381U (ja) * 1984-03-09 1985-09-30 ワイケイケイ株式会社 縫製機の縫製品牽引装置

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
BR8601207A (pt) 1987-01-13
EP0193941A3 (en) 1989-05-24
ES552664A0 (es) 1986-11-16
KR860006961A (ko) 1986-10-06
AU5402986A (en) 1986-10-23
ES552665A0 (es) 1986-11-16
AU559353B2 (en) 1987-03-05
DE3683659D1 (de) 1992-03-12
KR870001642B1 (ko) 1987-09-18
FI860933A0 (fi) 1986-03-05
CA1253398A (fr) 1989-05-02
FI88626C (fi) 1993-06-10
ES8700563A1 (es) 1986-11-16
ES8700562A1 (es) 1986-11-16
FI88626B (fi) 1993-02-26
FI860933A (fi) 1986-09-07
EP0193941A2 (fr) 1986-09-10
AR245512A1 (es) 1994-01-31

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