EP0037629B1

EP0037629B1 - Production of knitted garments

Info

Publication number: EP0037629B1
Application number: EP81300664A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Dennis Norman Leplar; Peter Bailey
Original assignee: Pex Ltd
Current assignee: PEX LIMITED
Priority date: 1980-04-03
Filing date: 1981-02-18
Publication date: 1985-06-19
Also published as: IE810314L; HK29784A; PT72798B; GR74843B; ATE13915T1; ES8405859A1; DE3170975D1; KR830005416A; DK149581A; IE50773B1; JPS56159304A; ES500653A0; KR840001345B1; GB2076634B; EP0037629A1; PT72798A; GB2076634A; CA1145580A

Abstract

A succession of seamless tubular garment blanks 11 are knitted integrally on a cylindrical knitting machine, each blank 11 including at one end thereof a welt or selvedge 12 forming part of a knitted elasticated portion 13 which is destined to form an elasticated waistband in the finished garment. The elasticated portion 13 is separated from the next succeeding blank 11 by a steam-soluble draw thread 14. After knitting, the blanks are flattened, pre-shrunk and separated in a single steam-treatment operation. An end of each blank remote from portion 13 is then shaped by a cutting machine, and the blank centre-crease folded in a conventional manner. Because the welt or selvedge 12 of each blank is knitted in finished form, there is no need for a separate hemming operation and the make-up of the garment is therefore improved.

Description

This invention is concerned with the production of knitted garments and is particularly, but not exclusively, concerned with the production of vests, briefs, T-shirts, shorts, jumpers, pyjamas and sleeping suits.
In published French Patent Application No. 2281729 there is disclosed a method of producing a knitted garment which comprises the following general steps:

(1) knitting on a circular knitting machine a seamless .tube composed of a succession of integrally joined tubular blanks;
(2) separating adjacent ones of the tubular blanks from one another;
(3) flattening each tubular blank;
(4) shaping one end of each blank at least partially while the blank is flattened to form two identical and superimposed portions;
(5) refolding each tubular blank so that longitudinal centre lines thereof become side edges of the blank; and
(6) joining together a pair of edge parts which were previously on the same one of said superimposed portions.

In this method, however, adjacent blanks are separated in step (2) by a cutting operation. A garment produced in this manner must still be hemmed at the waist, even though side seaming is avoided, and therefore the overall make-up of the garment is complicated. Wearer comfort is also reduced.
In principle, it would be possible partially to avoid this particular problem by integrally knitting at an end of each blank (i.e. the opposite end to that which is shaped in step (4)) a welt or selvedge, and by connecting this welt or selvedge to the adjacent blank by a draw thread construction, for example of the type disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 2942443. However, it would still be necessary to separate adjacent tubular blanks from one another by a labour-intensive cutting operation.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a draw thread construction in a method of the above-described type which is particularly convenient to use.
According, the invention provides such a method wherein the draw thread construction is composed of a first course of water- or steam-soluble draw thread, at least one intermediate course of waste yarn, and a second course of water- or steam-soluble draw thread, and wherein adjacent ones of the tubular blanks are separated from one another by subjecting the blanks to a steam treatment. In this way, the blanks can be separated at the same time as they are subjected to steam treatment to press and relax them, thereby further reducing the number of finishing operations required. The provision of the intermediate course or courses of waste yarn in the draw thread construction reduces the amount of residual draw thread material which is deposited on the blanks during the steam treatment operation.
Although the welt or selvedge of each blank may be non-elastic, it preferably forms part of an integrally knitted elasticated portion adjacent said one end of the blank, the walewise dimension of the elasticated portion being equal to that of a desired elasticated band in the finished garment so that the elasticated portion is economical both of material and knitting time. The elasticated portion may derive its elasticity from its specific construction (e.g. 2 x 1 rib), or alternatively may be produced by laying-in or knitting-in an elastic or elastomeric yarn. For certain applications, the whole of the blank may be knitted from elastic or elastomeric yarn. Where the elastic or elastomeric yarn is knitted-in, the elasticated portion is preferably knitted to a different construction from that of the remainder of the blank. Advantageously, the elastic or elastomeric yarn and a non-elastic yarn are selectively striped in at one or more feeders of the cylindrical knitting machine, so that courses of the elastic or elastomeric yarn can be knitted-in at intervals which are not necessarily dependent upon the feeder sequence of the machine. In addition, the elastic or elastomeric yarn is desirably knitted-in at different wales in successive courses. This is to be contrasted with certain conventional methods of producing seamless garments, wherein the tubular blanks are knitted in the same construction throughout, and the elasticated portions are produced by knitting-in courses of elastic or elastomeric yarn at regularly spaced intervals as determined by the feeder sequence, the yarn being knitted-in only at regularly spaced wales, such as rib wales.
Conveniently, shaping of said remote end of each blank is performed at least partly (and preferably wholly) by cutting. Where the garment is a pair of briefs for example, such that said parts of the remote end of the blank are joined together by a gusset, the gusset can be cut out from the blank at the same time as said end is cut to shape.
Where the garment is a T-shirt or the like, sleeve inserts can be joined to each blank which are produced on a cylindrical knitting machine as a succession of integrally joined sleeve blanks each having at one end thereof an integrally knitted welt or selvedge which is separated from the next succeeding sleeve blank by a draw thread. In this way, the sleeve inserts are produced with finished welts or selvedges in the same manner as the body blank, once again decreasing the number of finishing operations required and improving the wearer comfort.
The present invention will now be further described, by way of example, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:-

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a knitted tube produced as a first step in a method according to the present invention;
Figure 2 illustrates a steam-treatment operation to which the knitted tube is subjected;
Figures 3 to 5 illustrate further steps in the production of a T-shirt or the like according to the present invention;
Figures 6 to 8 illustrate further steps in the production of a pair of briefs or the like according to the present invention;
Figure 9 is a loop structure diagram of part of the knitted tube shown in Figure 1; and
Figure 10 is a loop structure diagram showing a modification of said part.

Referring first to Figure 1, as a first step in the manufacture of a knitted garment according to the invention, a seamless knitted tube 10 is produced by circular knitting on a cylindrical knitting machine (not shown) such as a single-cylinder, double-cylinder or cylinder and dial machine. The tube 10 comprises a succession of integrally joined tubular blanks 11 each having at one end thereof a welt or selvedge 12 forming part of an elasticated portion 13, the welt or selvedge 12 being separate from the next succeeding blank by a water- or steam-soluble draw threads 14. Preferred constructions of the blanks 11, welts or selvedges 12 and elasticated portions 13 will be described later.
From the knitting machine, the seamless knitted tube 10 is fed by way of variable speed rollers 15 to steam-treatment apparatus shown in Figure 2, where a variable speed endless belt conveyor 16 transports the tube successively to first, second and third steaming zones 17, 18 and 19 respectively. At the first and second zones, the tube 10 is steamed under a respective canopy 20 and is vibrated by a respective vibrator 21 in order to flatten the tube and pre-shrink or relax the knitted fabric. At the third zone, steam is applied to the tube 10 locally in the vicinity of the draw threads 14 in order to dissolve the latter, enabling successive blanks 11 to be separated from one another. The thus separated blanks are then transported by the conveyor 16 to a drying zone 22. Reference numeral 23 denotes variable speed rollers which assist in transporting the tube from the second zone 18 to the third zone 19 and which flatten the tube, and reference numeral 24 designates an extractor hood at the third zone.
The flattened and separated blanks are then transferred to a cutting machine (not shown) which shapes an end of each blank remote from the respective elasticated portion 13 and the welt or selvedge 12. More particularly, the cutting machine performs a single cutting operation on the two thicknesses of the flattened tube so as to produce two identical and superimposed portions which are integrally joined together along opposite edges thereof. In the production of a vest, T-shirt or the like, the end of the blank is shaped as shown in Figure 3, namely so that each of the superimposed portions has a curved edge part 25 destined to form one half of the front of a neck opening in the finished garment, a curved edge part 26 destined to form a respective arm hole, a curved edge part 27 destined to form one half of the back of the neck opening, and two substantially straight edge parts 28 and 29 disposed between the curved edge parts 25, 26 and between the curved edge parts 26, 27 respectively. The area of the blank which is removed by the cutting operation is indicated by hatching in Figure 3.
After cutting, the blank is centre-crease turned, i.e. it is refolded so that longitudinal centre lines 30 of the superimposed portions of the flattened blank become edges of the refolded blank, as shown in Figure 4. The straight edge parts 28 and 29 which were previously on the same one of the superimposed portions are then joined together by sewing or, where the tube fabric is made of thermoplastics yarn, by producing a welded seam. The vest, T-shirt or the like is finished off by adding sleeve insertions 31 and a neck band 32 as shown in Figure 5. The sleeve insertions, like the body part of the vest, are produced by a circular knitting or a cylindrical knitting machine as a succession of integrally joined tubular blanks, each blank having at one end thereof a welt or selvedge 33 forming part of an elasticated portion 34, the welt or selvedge being separated from the next succeeding blank by draw threads: in this respect, the sleeve insertion blanks before separation from one another form a seamless knitted tube similar to that shown in Figure 1. The draw threads are steam- or water-soluble so that the sleeve insertion blanks can be separated from one another in the same operation as they are pre-shrunk or relaxed, in the same manner as described above in relation to the body blanks 11.
In an alternative arrangement (not shown), the sleeve insertions 31 are omitted. In addition, instead of being provided with a neck band, the neck opening can have a neck insertion joined thereto. The neck opening can be made in any desired shape, such as V-shaped, round, slash or crew.
In the production of a pair of briefs or the like according to the invention, the aforementioned cutting machine shapes the end of each blank as shown in Figure 6, so that each of the identical superimposed portions thereof has two substantially straight edge parts 35 and 36 with a curved edge part 37 therebetween. The edge part 35 is destined to form one half of a lower edge of a rear part of the finished briefs, while the edge part 36 is destined to form one half of a lower edge of a front part of the briefs and is therefore located higher on the blank than the edge part 35. The edge part 37 is destined to form a respective leg opening in the finished briefs. At the same as shaping the end of the blank, the cutting machine also cuts out a gusset 38 of double thickness. As in Figure 3, the area of the blank which is removed by the cutting operation is indicated by hatching.
After cutting, the blank is centre-crease turned so that the longitudinal centre lines 39 of the superimposed portions of the flattened blank become edges of the refolded blank, as shown in Figure 7. The edges 35 and 36 are then joined by means of the double-thickness gusset 38, which thus forms a crotch portion of the briefs. The joining can be performed by sewing, or by producing a welded seam where the knitted fabric is made of thermoplastics yarn. The briefs are finished off by adding leg bands 40 as shown in Figure 8, or alternatively can be finished off by adding strips of knitted fabric, elastic lace, etc. to the leg opening.
In an alternative embodiment, the blank is suitably shaped (for example as indicated by broken line in Figure 6) so that the briefs can be produced by joining together the edge parts 35 and 36 directly, thereby omitting the gusset 38. In this case, the edge parts 36 on the front of the briefs will be disposed lower on the blank than the edge part 35 on the rear thereof.
In the embodiments described above, the elasticated portion 13 of each blank 11 forms an elasticated waistband in the finished garment. Because the portion 13 is knitted is of the same walewise dimension as the desired waistband, it is economical in terms of both knitting time and materials. Moreover, the portion 13 as knitted incorporates a finished welt or selvedge 12, so that no separate finishing operation such as hemming is required: this is of course also true of the elasticated portions 33 of the sleeve inserts 31 in the vest or T-shirt shown in Figure 5. This, plus the absence of any side seams, reduces the overall make-up of the garment and improves wearer comfort. More particularly, the only finishing operations required for the vest or T-shirt of Figure 5 are the joining of the edge parts 28 and 29, the joining of the sleeve insertions 31 to the body blank, and the addition of the neck band 32 or the like. In the case of the briefs illustrated in Figure 8, the only finishing operations necessary are the joining of the gusset 38 to the edge parts 35, 36 and the addition of the leg bands 40. The use of pre-dyed yarn is preferred since this avoids the need for dyeing and/or wet processing of the knitted tube before cutting or of the garment after assembly. The make-up of the garment is further reduced by the use of steam-soluble draw threads which enable the tubular blanks to be flattened, pre-shrunk and separated all in a single operation, as indicated in Figure 2. Moreover, the centre-crease turning and shaping of the separated blanks can also be performed in a single operation.
The portion 13 of each blank can obtain its elasticity from elastic or elastomeric yarn which is either merely laid-in or incorporated within the knitting construction (i.e. knitted-in). Indeed, the whole of the blank may be knitted from elastic or elastomeric yarn, either alone or in combination with a ground yarn. In all cases, extra elasticity can be imparted to the portion 13 by varying its construction from that used for the remainder of the blank, e.g. 2 x 1 rib as compared with 1 x 1 rib for the rest of the blank. Alternatively, the portion 13 can derive its elasticity solely from its construction, with no elastic or elastomeric yarns being included. The portion 13 may include colours, jacquard designs, motifs etc., and can be patterned similarly to or independently of the remainder of the blank. Such patterning is achieved using pre-dyed yarns, by tucking, loop transfer of changing yarns, for example.
One example of a construction which can be employed for the elasticated portion 13 and the welt or selvedge 12 is shown in Figure 9, which also illustrates the draw thread construction. In this example, the main part of the blank is knitted in 1 x 1 rib, a final course of the proceding blank being indicated by reference numeral 41. The draw thread construction is obtained by continuing the 1 x 1 rib knitting through a course 42 of steam-soluble yarn, an intermediate course 43 of waste yarn such as nylon or cotton, and a further course 44 of steam-soluble yarn. The interposition of the course 43 of waste yarn between the courses 42 and 43 of steam-soluble yarn has the effect of reducing during the above-described steam treatment the amount of the steam-soluble yarn which is deposited on the edges of the successive blanks which they separate. At the same time, the use of steam-soluble draw threads allows complete separation of adjacent blanks without the need to clip the threads which join the latter.
The elasticated portion 13 is composed of a repeated sequence of four courses 45 to 48, only one such sequence being illustrated. The course 45 is composed of non-elastic yarn such as cotton or nylon, whereas the courses 46 to 48 are composed of elastomeric yarn, typically nylon-covered LYCRA. The construction of the portion 13 repeats itself every eight wales in the coursewise direction. The course 45 is knitted with the course 46 in wales W1, W9, ... and in the intervening wales is knitted alternatively with the course 47 and the course 45 of the next sequence. Course 46 is knitted with the course 48 in wales W1, W9,... and is floated across the intervening wales. Course 47 is knitted with the course 45 of the next sequence in even-numbered wales and is floated across odd-numbered wales. Course 48 is knitted with the course 45 of the next sequence in wales W1, W9, ... and is floated across all of the intervening wales.
Typically, the sequence formed by courses 45 to 48 will be repeated six times to produce a plain waistband for ladies or girls briefs. Alternatively, it may be repeated, say three times on each side of a narrow decorative band incorporating a jacquard design in coloured yarns, a transfer stitch pattern for a tuck-stitch pattern, for example.
A further example of a construction which can be employed for the elasticated portion 13 is illustrated in Figure 10. As with the example shown in Figure 9, the main part of the blank is knitted in 1 x 1 rib (reference numeral 50 denoting a final course of the preceding blank), and the draw thread construction is formed by continuing the 1 x 1 rib knitting for a course 51 of steam-soluble yarn, an intermediate course 52 of waste yarn such as cotton or nylon, and a further course 53 of steam-soluble yarn. Once again, the elasticated portion 13 is composed of a repeated sequence of four courses 54 to 57 with the pattern repeating itself every eight wales in the coursewise direction: in Figure 10, however, the courses 54 and 56 are composed of a non-elastic yarn (such as cotton or nylon) and the courses 55 and 57 are composed of an elastomeric yarn (such as nylon-covered LYCRA).
The course 54 is knitted with course 55 in wales W2, W4, W8,..., with course 56 in wales W1, W5, W6, W9, ... and with course 57 in wales W3, W7, .... Course 55 is knitted with course 56 in wales W2, W4, W8, ... and is floated across all other wales. Course 56 is knitted with the course 54 of the next sequence in all but wales W3, W7, ... where it is floated. Course 57 is knitted with the course 54 of the next sequence in wales W3, W7, ... and is floated across all other wales.
Typically, the sequence of courses 54 to 57 will be repeated 12 times to form the waistband of boys or mens briefs. Alternatively, however, three or more sequences may be knitted on either side of a knitted decorative band incorporating a jacquard design, stitch effect or coloured stripe, for example. The course 54 and 56 can be knitted in yarns of different colours to produce a decorative effect.
For the sake of clarity, the courses of elastomeric yarn are indicated in both Figure 9 and Figure 10 by strippling. Where the knitting constructions shown in these figures are produced on a cylinder and dial knitting machine, odd-numbered wales are knitted by the cylinder needles while even-numbered wales are knitted by the dial needles. The various yarns employed i.e. coloured yarns, elastic or elastomeric yarns and steam-soluble yarns can be striped in and out selectively at the feeders of the knitting machine so that their walewise sequence is not necessarily determined by the disposition of the feeders around the machine. Moreover, as is apparent from Figures 9 and 10, the elastic or elastomeric yarns are knitted-in at different wales in successive courses.
Although the invention has been described above in relation to the production of vests, T-shirts and briefs, it will be manifest that the method can be used to manufacture many other types of knitted garments, such as jumpers, shorts, pyjamas and sleeping suits. The diameter of the cylindrical knitting machine is arranged to be substantially equal to that of the wearer of the garment, and therefore it is necessary to provide knitting machines of different diameters for different sizes of garment, for example narrow diameter garments for children and wider diameter garments for adults.

Claims

1. A method of producing a knitted garment, comprising the steps of:

(a) knitting on a circular knitting machine a seamless tube (10) composed of a succession of integrally joined tubular blanks (11);

(b) during step (a) knitting at one end of each tubular blank an integrally knitted welt or selvedge (12) and a draw thread construction (14) which separates the welt or selvedge (12) from the end of an adjacent tubular blank (11);

(c) separating adjacent tubular blanks (11) from each other by means of said draw thread construction (14);

(d) flattening each tubular blank (11);

(e) shaping the opposite end of each tubular blank (11) at least partially while the blank is flattened to form two identical and superimposed portions;

(f) refolding each tubular blank (11) so that longitudinal centre lines (30) thereof become side edges of the blank; and

(g) joining together a pair of edge parts (28 and 29; 35 and 36) which were previously on the same one of said superimposed portions, characterised in that the draw thread construction knitted in step (b) is composed of a first course (46; 55) of water- or steam-soluble draw thread, at least one intermediate course (47; 56) of waste yarn and a second course (48; 57) of water- or steam-soluble draw thread, and in that step (c) is performed by subjecting said tubular blanks (11) to a steam treatment.

2. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the welt or selvedge (12) of each tubular blank (11) forms part of an integrally knitted elasticated portion (13) adjacent to said one end of the blank (11), the walewise dimension of the elasticated portion (13) being equal to that of a desired elasticated band in the finished garment.

3. A method as claimed in claim 2, wherein the elasticated portion (13) of each tubular blank (11) is knitted to a different construction from the remainder of the blank.

4. A method as claimed in claim 2 or 3, wherein the elasticated portion (13) of each tubular blank (11) is produced by striping in an elastic or elastomeric yarn and a non-elastic yarn selectively at one or more feeders of the cylindrical knitting machine.

5. A method as claimed in claim 2, 3 or 4, wherein the elasticated portion (13) of each tubular blank (11) is produced by knitting-in an elastic or elastomeric yarn at different wales in successive courses.

6. A method as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein said other end of each tubular blank (11) is shaped at least partly by a cutting operation, and said edge parts (35 and 36) thereof are joined together through the intermediary of a gusset (38) which is cut out from the blank (11) during said cutting operation.

7. A method as claimed in any preceding claim, further comprising the step of joining sleeve inserts (31) to each tubular blank (11), the sleeve inserts (31) being produced on a cylindrical knitting machine as a succession of integrally joined sleeve blanks each having at one end thereof an integrally knitted welt or selvedge (33) which is separated from the next succeeding sleeve blank by a draw thread.