EA041636B1 - METHOD FOR COSMETIC INFLUENCE ON FACE KERATIN MATERIAL IN HUMAN EYEBROW AND/OR EYELASH AREA AND DEVICE FOR ITS IMPLEMENTATION - Google Patents

Description

Technical area

The claimed invention relates to the field of cosmetology, namely to the field of cosmetic effects on the keratin material of the face, in particular the skin and hairs in the region of the eyebrows and / or eyelashes of a person, and can be used to care for the skin and hairs in the region of the eyebrows and eyelashes; to create a semi-permanent make-up by coloring the eyelashes and the eyebrow area in order to visually correct the original shape of the eyebrows; to obtain a permanent modification of the curvature of keratin fibers (hair) when applying perm procedures or chemical straightening of keratin fibers in the area of eyebrows and eyelashes.

Prior Art

Modern trends in cosmetology are such that one of the tasks in the implementation of an improving effect on the elements of the face is to reduce the time for the procedure when obtaining the desired effect. Various types of cosmetic effects on the keratin material of the face in the area of eyelashes and eyebrows are known: moisturizing, nourishing and restorative care; coloring of skin and hairs; permanent modification of the curvature of the hairs. So, for example, in order to improve the keratin material of the face in the area of eyelashes and eyebrows, topical agents are applied to moisturize and protect, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin and hairs when they are damaged, for example, after exposure to chemically active substances or other external factors. In this case, topical agents may be in the form of an oil (eg, usma oil, etc.) or aqueous solutions that contain a mixture of ingredients. The goal of clients and practitioners when using these products is to increase the penetration of beneficial ingredients of topical products into the hair and upper layers of the skin, which will improve the result and increase the effectiveness of the procedure.

An important task in dyeing (in addition to dyeing eyebrow hairs) is to obtain a bright and clear (graphic) imprint on the skin in the area of dye application (with a clear shape of the eyebrow pattern) in order to visually improve / correct the original shape of the eyebrows. The problems in this case are: a) getting a bright saturated print; b) low resistance of the resulting staining of the epidermis, especially in places with no growth or low density of eyebrow hair growth. As cosmetic coloring compositions, compositions containing oxidative (permanent, demi-permanent), including oxidative ammonia-free (permanent, demi-permanent), non-oxidative (semi-permanent, physical) and natural dyes can be used. The goal of clients and masters when using these tools is also the desire to increase the effectiveness of the procedure while reducing its time.

The creation of a permanent modification of the bend of keratin fibers consists, as a rule, of several stages, in which, at the first stage, the disulfide bonds of keratin cystine are opened (break), and at the second stage, the broken disulfide bonds are restored. This method allows, therefore, to carry out either curling or straightening of hairs in the area of \u200b\u200bthe eyebrows and eyelashes (Kuleshkova O.N. Technology and equipment for hairdressing: a textbook for beginning vocational education; a textbook for secondary vocational education. - 2nd ed., ster. - M.: Publishing Center Academy; ProfObrIzdat, 2002. P. 92). At the same time, compositions with different pH levels (alkaline, acidic, acid-balanced, neutral, without thioglycolic acid, ammonia-free, etc.) based on various active components, such as: thioorganic compounds and their derivatives, including cysteamine, mercaptamine; hydroxide compounds (sodium hydroxide, lithium and potassium hydroxides, guanidine hydroxide, etc.); sodium sulfites and bisulfites, etc., and chemical interaction, which with keratin fibers can occur with various thermal effects (exothermic, endothermic) of weak severity. Rollers (or other devices) are used to fix the shape of eyelash hairs. In the case of eyebrow hairs, fixation in the desired position is possible by gluing the hairs to the skin with a water-soluble adhesive composition, or by distributing and laying the eyebrow hairs in the desired position after applying the composition that opens the disulfide bonds of keratin cystine, and then pressing the hairs to the skin of the eyebrow area, for example, polymer food film. It is known that the rate of change in the shape of the hair depends on: the concentration of active ingredients, the structure of the hair, the exposure time, the temperature in the room (Technology of hairdressing work: textbook for early professional education / I.Yu. Odinokova, T.D. Chernichenko. - M.: Publishing Center Academy, 2004., [24] color illustration: illustration C. 126 cover in the treatment area, especially at room temperatures lower than perceived as comfortable (20-22°C). The significance of the temperature parameters is due to the fact that as the temperature decreases, the speed of movement of molecules and their kinetic energy decrease, which leads to a decrease in the number of particles with an energy equal to the activation energy, and, consequently, to a decrease in the reaction rate. The goal of clients and craftsmen when creating a permanent modification of the bending of keratin fibers is the desire to increase the effectiveness of the procedure while reducing its time.

- 1 041636

From the prior art, various methods and devices for cosmetic effects on human keratin material are known using various methods to increase efficiency, for example, ultrasonic, steam, and thermal effects. However, in view of the different characteristics of the impact and scope of cosmetic methods and devices used for human head hair, can not be used on the human face, in particular the area of eyebrows and eyelashes. And the known methods and devices for the face do not provide a local and non-contact effect on the eyelashes and eyebrows.

A device for thermal exposure is known (patent for the invention RU 2043094, publ. 09/10/1995), related to medical equipment for the prevention and treatment of inflammatory processes and representing a sealed bag of bioinert elastic material filled with an aqueous saline solution with the ability to crystallize with heat release. The solution contains a trigger element in the form of a stainless steel plate with local areas of high deformation, characterized by the presence of microcracks. The aqueous solution filling the bag is made on the basis of trihydrate sodium acetic acid. The package can be made in various shapes (for example, in the form of a face mask with slits or in the form of an overlay for the maxillary cavities), various colors and sizes.

A device is known for pulsating thermal effects on the nasolabial area, adaptive to the rhythm of the patient's breathing (patent for invention 2246919, publ. 27.02.2005), which, with its working surface, which is the lower surface of the additional dielectric plate, is applied to the nasolabial area of the patient, and the latter pre-lubricated with an ointment that conducts heat well (vaseline oil). At the same time, a respiratory movement sensor connected to the control unit is placed on the anterior part of the patient's abdominal cavity.

A thermoelectric device for conducting thermal cosmetic procedures on a human face is known (patent for invention RU 2612310, publ. 03/06/2017), containing a heat contact plate made in the form of a flexible base of a highly thermally conductive material and having the shape of a mask that follows the contours of a person's face, with holes in the eyes, nose and mouth. EFFECT: inventions provide the possibility of simultaneous thermal action on the entire surface of a person's face in accordance with a certain structure and geometry. The base of the heat contact plate in both cases consists of stacked segments assembled in such a way that it is possible to adjust its shape and size in accordance with the specific geometric characteristics of the human face, while the stacking segments are connected to each other by one or another type of latches along their side surface.

A common disadvantage of the described devices is the contact method of influencing the face, which can lead to spreading and smearing of the used coloring compositions, compositions for the permanent modification of keratin fibers and care products beyond the required impact zone. In addition, these devices do not have the ability to regulate thermal exposure depending on the selected tasks and the possibility of direct visual control over the area of exposure during exposure of topical agents.

A device for thermal effects on the skin of a patient is known (patent for invention 2325896, publ. 06/10/2008), including a blower unit with an air flow rate control unit, an air flow heating unit, an air flow temperature controller and an air flow interrupter with a mode control unit airflow interrupter operation. The blower unit with the air flow speed control unit, the air flow heating unit with its temperature controller, the air flow interrupter operating mode control unit are located in the base unit, made in the form of a mobile pedestal, on the front panel of which a microprocessor two-channel temperature meter-regulator is fixed, connected to air flow temperature controller and connected by the first channel to the air flow temperature sensor on the surface of the patient's skin, made in the form of a fast-response thermoelectric thermocouple converter, and by the second channel to the temperature measurement sensor inside the heating element housing, connected by an appropriate electrical cable to the heating power controller in the heating unit air flow and located together with the air flow interrupter in the remote block for heating and interrupting the air flow, connected to the base unit by an air sleeve and electric cables. The disadvantages of this device are the possible premature drying of applied topical agents, drying of the skin in the affected area and the appearance of not very comfortable sensations in some people due to exposure to air currents.

A method and device for enhancing the diffusion of a substance into a local area of a material or tissue is known (application for invention US 5267985, publ. 07.12.1993) by simultaneously applying ultrasonic energy to the substance and material at two or more separate frequencies. In this case, the material may be living tissue, and the first site of the material may be the stratum corneum of the skin.

A known system for enhancing and improving transdermal or transdermal delivery of chemicals or topical drugs (application for invention WO 99/51295, publ. 10/14/1999), including a disposable container that contains a sterile single dose of the active agent,

- 2 041636 intended for single use in medical therapy. This unit dose is formulated to enhance the transport of the active agent across the skin of a mammal when the active agent is applied to the skin and the skin is exposed to light and/or ultrasound as determined by at least one specific parameter. Preferred ultrasound settings can be determined according to both efficiency and safety requirements. However, in the case of cosmetic procedures with eyebrows and eyelashes, transdermal delivery of the substance is not necessary.

An ultrasonic device for hair treatment is known (application for invention US 20060272665, publ. 07.12.2006), designed to apply ultrasonic vibrations to the user's hair to increase the penetration of a therapeutic composition for hair into the hair.

There is a known method for increasing the uptake of a topical agent by hair (patent for invention RU 2657167, published on 06/08/2018), including applying the topical agent to the surface of the hair, generating ultrasound with a frequency exceeding 15 MHz, and the ultrasound intensity is in the range between 2 and 100 W/cm ² , and applying ultrasound to the topical agent and/or to the surface of the hair to improve absorption of the topical agent by the hair. In this case, the ultrasonic action is applied through direct contact with the topically coated hair by pinching the hair bundle.

A device for styling hair is known (patent for invention RU 2687778, publ. 05/16/2019), including a light emitting diode, which is configured to supply light energy to the hair, and the optical energy flux density is in the range of 0.5-9 J/cm ² and more preferably in the range of 1-5 J/cm ² . The light emitting diode is pulsed, and the duration of the optical energy pulse is at least 50 ms. The hair styling appliance may be a hair straightener having opposing first and second straightening surfaces, of which at least the first straightening surface comprises a light emitting diode and at least the second straightening surface is configured to reflect light from the light emitting diode.

A common disadvantage of the known devices and methods using ultrasound is the need for the device to come into contact with the keratin material. In the case of the eyebrow and eyelash area, this can lead to smearing of topical products, for example, a coloring composition beyond the sketch of the eyebrows or the desired area of \u200b\u200blashes, and the composition enters the mucous membrane of the eye. In addition, exposure to ultrasound at such frequencies and cavitation in the area of the eyebrows and eyelashes near the eyeballs may be unsafe.

A method is known for applying a reflectivity-changing substance in order to improve the visual appeal of human skin (patent for the invention RU 2367577, publ. 09/20/2009), which consists in the selective and precise application of one or more substances, such as a dye or pigment, on a human skin. skin in order to improve its visual appeal, through inkjet printing technology, such as an inkjet printhead. This technology is applicable to improve the visual appeal of large areas of human skin by changing its reflectivity, in which the print head applicator makes many passes over the skin, each time improving the desired improvement in order to make the skin look younger and more attractive. . However, this method is quite lengthy and difficult to use and is intended for use on large areas of the skin.

There is a known method of targeted local therapeutic and/or cosmetic effects on human tissues (patent for invention RU 2371216, publ. 10/27/2009), carried out by affecting the tissues of the human body due to photodynamic transformation of compositions (means) into a biologically active state. However, to implement this method, special equipment is required, a special electrical module that controls the operation of the light source. The method is complicated in execution, allows the procedure to be carried out only on the surface of the skin and does not imply direct use for keratin fibers.

A portable combined humidifier and dryer for hair is known (application for invention US 3814111, publ. 06/04/1974), including a base, a head support assembly and a hard head assembly. Most of the base and the mounting socket are located in the head of the device. The steam generator box is located in the head assembly and is thus secured and protected within the nested housing during transport and storage.

Known infrared hair dryer (patent for the invention EP 0156984, publ. 25.04.1990), including four infrared heating units located around the head. Such heating and drying is usually required during or after hair treatments such as perms.

A common disadvantage of known devices using steam and heat is that they are designed to increase the efficiency of staining or permanent modification of keratin fibers on the human head, but they cannot be used for the face area, since they do not take into account the effect of temperature parameters on the skin in eyebrows and eyelashes, and their large size cannot provide local heating only for the eyebrows and eyelashes. In addition, the use of steam can cause discomfort and undesirable effects, such as steaming of areas of the skin not to be treated, as well as spreading of topical products outside the treated area due to a large amount of moisture.

Brief summary of the invention

The method of cosmetic impact on the keratin material of the face, in particular in the region of the eyebrows and/or eyelashes of a person, includes at least a single application of at least one agent for topical application to at least one element of the keratin material of the face, exposure of the applied agent to the keratin material of the face for a predetermined time with remote heating in the temperature range of 33-38.5°C, removal of the applied product from the keratin material of the face.

Technical task

The technical result of the claimed group of inventions is the simplification of the procedure for cosmetic treatment of the keratin material of the face, in particular in the area of the eyebrows and/or eyelashes of a person, and the reduction of the time for its implementation when the desired effect of exposure is achieved.

The solution of the problem

Facial keratin material refers to skin and hairs, in particular in the region of the eyebrows and/or eyelashes of a person.

The specified technical result in part of the method is achieved due to the fact that the method of cosmetic action on the keratin material of the face, in particular in the area of the eyebrows and / or eyelashes of a person, includes at least a single application of at least one topical agent for at least on one element of the keratin material of the face, holding the applied agent on the keratin material of the face for a specified time with remote heating in the temperature range of 33-38.5°C, removing the applied agent from the keratin material of the face.

Options for the development of the main technical solution are possible, consisting in the fact that in order to care for the keratin material of the face, in particular the skin and/or hairs in the eyelashes and/or eyebrows, topical agents are used to nourish and create the effect of restoring these elements keratin material of the face, the exposure of which is carried out in accordance with the specified exposure time of these topical agents to achieve the desired effect;

for the purpose of coloring the keratin material of the face, in particular the skin and/or hairs in the area of the eyelashes and/or eyebrows, topical agents are used, which are cosmetic coloring compositions, the exposure of which is carried out in accordance with the specified exposure time of these topical agents to achieve the desired degree of adhesion of the coloring pigment by the hairs and / or the stratum corneum of the epidermis;

in order to permanently modify the keratin fibers of the face, in particular the hairs in the area of the eyebrows and / or eyelashes, before applying the topical agents, the hairs are fixed in a given position, then the topical agent is applied, designed to break the disulfide bonds of keratin cystine, the applied agent is kept within a specified time, its residues are removed, then a topical agent is applied, designed to restore broken disulfide bonds, the applied agent is kept for a specified time, its residues are removed.

The specified technical result in terms of the device for implementing the method is achieved due to the fact that the device for cosmetic effects on the keratin material of the face, in particular in the region of the eyelashes and/or eyebrows, includes a housing in which at least one heater is placed, containing at least one heating element and configured to provide remote heating of the keratin material of the face in the temperature range of 33-38.5°C, while the inner surface of the body and/or the heater have a shape configured to provide the specified heating of the keratin material of the face in the local area of the eyelashes and/ or eyebrows of a person.

Options for the development of the main technical solution are possible, consisting in the fact that the inner surface of the housing and / or the heater have a concave shape, in longitudinal section, at least partially repeating the shape of an oval, circle, polygon;

the width of the inner surface of the housing and/or heater is in the range of 5-80 mm;

the shape of the inner surface of the housing limits the zone of thermal action on the keratin material in the range of 10-100 mm;

the heating element of the heater is an infrared radiation source with a wavelength greater than 3 microns and a radiant flux power of less than 1.33 cal/cm ² -min;

there is a holder connected to the body.

Positive effects of the invention

Thus, due to the combination of essential features of the claimed invention, it is possible

- 4 041636 to simplify the procedures for cosmetic treatment of the keratin material of the face, in particular in the area of eyebrows and/or eyelashes of a person, and to reduce the time for its implementation when the desired effect of exposure is achieved.

Brief description of the drawings

Fig. 1 shows one embodiment of the device.

Fig. 2 shows another embodiment of the device.

Fig. 3 shows another embodiment of the device.

Fig. 4 shows another embodiment of the device.

Fig. 5 shows another embodiment of the device.

Fig. 6 shows the result of the research.

Fig. 7 shows the result of the research.

Fig. 8 shows the result of the research.

Fig. 9 shows the result of the research.

Description of Embodiments

The method of cosmetic treatment of the keratin material of the face, in particular in the region of the eyebrows and/or eyelashes of a person, includes at least one application of at least one agent for topical application to at least one element of the keratin material of the face. In order to care for the keratin material of the face, in particular the skin and/or hairs in the area of the eyelashes and/or eyebrows, topical preparations are used to nourish and restore the said elements of the keratin material of the face. In order to color the skin and/or hairs of the keratin material of the face in the area of eyelashes and/or eyebrows, topical preparations are used, which are cosmetic coloring compositions. In order to permanently modify the curvature of the hairs of the keratin material of the face in the region of the eyebrows and/or eyelashes, first a topical agent is applied to break the disulfide bonds of keratin cystine, and then a topical agent is applied to restore the broken disulfide bonds.

Then, the applied agent is kept on the keratin material of the face for a specified time with remote heating in the temperature range of 33-38.5°C and the applied agent is removed from the keratin material of the face. At the same time, in order to care for the keratin material of the face, the exposure of topical agents is carried out in accordance with the specified exposure time of these agents in order to achieve the desired effect of nutrition and recovery. In order to color the keratin material of the face, in particular the skin and/or hairs in the area of the eyelashes and/or eyebrows, the exposure of cosmetic coloring compositions is carried out in accordance with the specified exposure time of these topical agents to achieve the desired degree of adhesion of the coloring pigment to the hairs and/or horny layer of the epidermis. In order to permanently modify the bending of the keratin fibers of the face in the region of the eyebrows and / or eyelashes, before applying topical agents, fix the hairs in a given position, then apply a topical agent designed to break the disulfide bonds of keratin cystine, hold the applied agent for a specified time , remove its residues, then apply a topical agent designed to restore broken disulfide bonds, hold the applied agent for a specified time, remove its residues.

According to the second law of thermodynamics, when bodies and media with different temperatures come into contact, heat exchange occurs between them in the direction of a less heated medium, while the temperature of a warmer object decreases. When topical agents are applied to the skin, heat transfer will occur from the skin to the agent. The heat flux passing through the tissues (eyebrow skin) will be used to heat and raise the temperature of the topical agent applied to the skin. Those. a topical agent applied to the skin area does the job of removing heat from the treatment area. In this case, the body's thermoregulation system will strive to maintain (equalize) the temperature level of the skin area with the applied topical agent with other skin areas. Insufficient warming temperature of the skin in the area of treatment leads to the fact that the rate of diffusion of substances is reduced, especially at ambient temperatures lower than perceived as comfortable (20-22°C).

At the same time, a homoiothermal core is isolated in the body (temperature is 36.7-37 ° C) and a poikilothermic membrane, which includes skin, subcutaneous tissue and limb tissues, which act as a heat-conducting buffer between internal organs and the environment. The surface of the skin gives off heat to the environment, and its temperature is significantly lower than the temperature of the internal organs. The temperature of the shell in different parts of the human body is not the same. The maximum temperature was recorded on the surface of the chest and abdomen (27-32°C), and the minimum (24-28°C) - on the skin of the hands and feet. The temperature on the skin of the forehead (including the eyebrows) within a comfortable ambient temperature (20-22°C) is about 33°C. The temperature on the skin in the area of the eyeballs (with closed eyes) within the comfortable ambient temperature is about 34°C. Under conditions of ambient temperatures lower than those perceived as comfortable, the temperature of the skin can decrease (V. A. Baraboy, Solnechny luch. M.: Nauka, 1976, p. 183).

Therefore, in order to solve the problem of increasing the effectiveness of the cosmetic effect on the skin and hairs in the area of the eyebrows and eyelashes and improving the absorption of topical agents by the hairs, to maintain the diffusion rate of substances, especially at ambient temperatures lower than those perceived as comfortable, the lower temperature threshold skin and topical products should start at 33-35°C. At the same time, the use of thermal exposure below 3334 ° C in the area of the eyebrows and eyelids can lead to a loss of the meaning of thermal exposure.

To solve the problem of increasing the efficiency and increasing the diffusion rate of substances or reducing the exposure time of topical agents, the upper temperature limit for heating the skin and hairs in the area of eyebrows and eyelashes, as well as topical agents within comfortable temperatures, should not exceed 38.5 ° C .

This is due to the fact that when the temperature of the thermal factor is higher than the temperature of the skin in the area of influence, the body's thermoregulation system tends to cool the area of the skin in the area of influence (equalize the temperature with the surrounding tissues), which is part of the cascade of reactions of the body's thermoregulation system. Factors of local vascular regulation mainly affect vascular tone and redistribution of blood, through which heat energy is transferred from the internal organs to the skin surface and vice versa. With local heating of the skin and topical products up to 38.5 ° C, the process of accumulation of thermal energy and redistribution of heat in the tissues occurs. At the same time, sweating in the area of heat exposure is not significant or practically absent. Subjects describe their sensations as pleasant warmth.

An attempt to heat the skin locally above 39-41°C first leads to active sweating (evaporates in areas of the skin free from topical agents) and irritation, due to increased blood flow in the surface tissues, and after a while causes the appearance of unpleasant (irritating) sensations in the form of tingling and sensation of unpleasant heat in areas not subjected to treatment. Which may indicate a possible (potential) excessive thermal exposure (with local heating in the face area, in this case). According to special experiments, it was determined that an increase in skin temperature to about 43.5 ° C, 10 ° C above normal skin temperature, causes pain (V. A. Baraboy. Solnechny luch. M .: Nauka, 1976. P. 191) . Excessive thermal exposure of the skin can lead to a decrease in moisture content and potentially leads to damage and dryness of the skin in areas not treated. At the same time, in areas of the skin with an applied topical agent, in particular a dye or nourishing composition, sweat droplets accumulate under the topical agent. The formation of sweat on the skin provides great resistance to the diffusion of substances, enhancing the transport of substances in the opposite direction from the desired direction - from the skin to the external environment, pushing the active substances (coloring, nourishing) of topical agents from the stratum corneum of the epidermis, and in the case of an adhesive composition, it can lead to to peel off the roller in the eyelashes and hairs in the eyebrows. In this case, the criterion for the threshold of excessive thermal exposure in the face area can be the appearance of irritation (reddening of the skin in the area of heat exposure) in areas of the skin free from topical agents.

Thus, the use of heat in temperature parameters in the range of 33-35°C makes it possible to reduce the influence of external temperature factors and compensate for the heat loss of the treated area, especially at ambient temperatures lower than those perceived as comfortable (20-22°C). The use of heat in temperature parameters in the range of 35-38.5 ° C allows you to increase the diffusion rate of substances and, if necessary, reduce the exposure time of topical agents.

When dyeing, heat transfer occurs from the skin to the dye, even taking into account the presence of a weak exothermic reaction in oxidative dyes. The heat flux passing through the tissues (eyebrow skin) is spent on heating and raising the temperature of the coloring composition applied to the skin. Those. the coloring composition applied to the skin area works to remove heat from the area of staining. Lowering the temperature of the skin in the region of staining and dye results in the staining speed and dye adhesion being reduced, especially at ambient temperatures lower than perceived as comfortable (20-22°C). Thus, there is a need to increase the adhesion of dye pigments to obtain a cosmetic effect, namely in the field of application of semi-permanent makeup (eyebrow masters) when coloring the area of the eyebrows. The controlled choice of the temperature parameter for heating the skin and the coloring composition solves the problem of increasing adhesion by reducing heat loss in the area of coloring and increasing the reaction rate in cosmetic coloring compositions.

To solve the problem of improving the efficiency of permanent modification of the curvature of hairs in the area of eyebrows and eyelashes for compositions, the technology of which does not require the presence of a thermal bath to maintain the reaction rate at ambient temperatures lower than those perceived as comfortable, the lower temperature threshold of the skin and means for topical application to effectively modify the curvature of the hairs should start at 33-34°C. At the same time, the application

- 6 041636 thermal exposure below 33°C in the area of the eyebrows and 34°C in the area of the eyelids can lead to a loss of the meaning of the thermal exposure. To solve the problem of increasing the efficiency and increasing the speed of the chemical reaction (reducing the exposure time of the compositions) of the permanent modification of the bend of the hairs in the area of the eyebrows and eyelashes for the compositions, the technology of which requires the presence of a thermal bath, the temperature range of heating the skin and compositions for modifying the bend of the hairs, in within comfortable temperatures, should be in the range of 35-38.5 ° C.

Local heating of the skin in the affected area above 39-41°C first leads to active sweating and irritation, due to increased blood flow in the surface tissues, and after a while causes unpleasant (irritating) sensations in the form of tingling and a feeling of unpleasant heat in the areas unprocessed. Excessive thermal exposure of the skin can lead to a decrease in moisture content and potentially lead to skin damage and dryness. The onset of perspiration can cause the eyelash bolster to peel off the eyelid and the hairs to peel off the skin in the brow area.

It must be taken into account that when using heat to treat hair on the head, the recommended exposure time may be reduced by about 1 / 3-1 / 2 of the exposure time (provided that an infrared heater is used) (Hairdressing technology: a textbook for beginning prof. Education / I.Yu. Odinokova, T.A. Chernichenko. - M.: Publishing Center Academy, 2004., [24] C. color illustration: Ill. S. 131) and 1/2 time from exposure time (when using a device with steam generation) (Konstantinov A.V. Hairdressing: A practical guide. - M .: Higher school, 1987. - 336 s: ill.), especially during procedures using compositions for permanent modification of keratin fibers .

Device for cosmetic impact on the keratin material of the face (Fig. 1-5), in particular in the area of eyelashes and/or eyebrows, includes a housing 1, which houses at least one heater 2 containing at least one heating element and is made with the possibility of providing remote heating of the keratin material of the face in the temperature range of 3338.5°C.

The inner surface of the housing 1 and/or the heater 2 has a straight or concave shape configured to provide said heating of the facial keratin material in the local area of the human eyelashes and/or eyebrows.

The concave shape faces the impact area and in the longitudinal section, at least partially, can repeat the shape of an oval (Fig. 1-3), a circle, a truncated triangle (Fig. 5) or part of another polygon, and also in the form of one corner opened in side of the impact area (Fig. 2).

Shapes are possible that are a combination of a straight (Fig. 3, 4, 5) and a curved part, such as a flat base and rounded sides, etc.

Housing 1 is designed to protect the heater 2 and can be used to limit the scattering of radiation to localize heating in a given area.

The overall dimensions of the shape of the inner surface of the housing 1 and/or the heater 2 are selected based on the need to heat the local area, namely on the basis of the average size of the growth area of the eyelashes and/or eyebrows of a person. For example, the width of the inner surface of the housing 1 and/or the heater 2 may be in the range of 5-80 mm. At the same time, the shape of the inner surface of the body 1 limits the zone of thermal action on the keratin material in the approximate range of 10-100 mm.

In the case of a composite heater 2, its heating elements are joined in such a way that a straight or concave shape is formed. They can be joined without a gap (not shown in the drawing) or with a gap (Fig. 2, 4, 5).

To ensure local surface heating of the skin or topical application in the area of the eyebrows and/or eyelashes to a temperature of 33-38.5°C and to prevent unwanted overheating of the eyeball, it is necessary to use a heating element in the heater 2, in the radiation spectrum of which the long-wave infrared range is predominantly represented. radiation, preferably with a wavelength greater than 3 μm and a radiant flux power of not more than 1.33 cal/cm ² -min.

Infrared radiation is understood as electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength longer than the wavelength of visible radiation, located between 780 nm and 1 mm (International Electrotechnical Dictionary. Heating by infrared radiation (841-24-01): GOST IEC 60050-841-2016: - FSUE Standartinform, 2016. - S. 10). Infrared rays, having a thermal effect on the body, increase the temperature of those layers of the skin in which they are absorbed. The stratum corneum and the entire epidermis are transparent to visible light rays, especially red ones. Red and near infrared rays (with a wavelength of up to 1.5 microns) are absorbed mainly in the dermis, but some of them (25-30%) penetrate deeper, by 2.5-4 cm, reaching the subcutaneous fat layer and even located under it. organs. Longer-wavelength rays are completely absorbed in the epidermis. For example, infrared radiation with a wavelength of 3-6 microns has a penetrating ability into the epithelial part of the skin to a depth of 0.5 mm. At the same time, 80% of such radiation is absorbed by the epithelial part of the skin in a layer thickness of up to 00.25 mm, and 20% in a layer thickness of 0.25-0.5 mm (Baraboy V.A. Solnechny luch. M .: Nauka, 1976. pp. 183-190). At the same time, if the power of the radiant flux is high, the sensation of heat under the action of radiation on the skin turns into a pain sensation; its threshold for waves of different lengths is different. Visible rays cause a sensation of sharp pain at an intensity of 3.11 cal / cm ² -min, short-wave infrared rays at

1.79 cal / cm ² -min, and long-wave - at 1.33 cal / cm ² -min. This difference is explained by the depth of penetration of the rays into the skin (Baraboy V. A. Sunny ray. M .: Nauka, 1976. S. 190).

For more convenient use of the proposed device, it can be equipped with a timer (not shown in the drawing) off, a sensor (not shown in the drawing) of skin heating temperature (pulse lamp operation), a relay (not shown in the drawing) for changing the heating temperature in degrees and display.

The body 1 of the device can be connected to a holder (not shown in the drawing) that allows you to fix the device relative to the floor or table, and also allows you to adjust the distance to the impact zone on the area of the human body.

Examples

Example 1. Experimental studies were carried out on hairs in the area of eyebrows and eyelashes of volunteers using a topical agent based on a composition of oils of plant origin, composition: sweet almond oil and cinnamon essential oil, burdock oil, castor oil, grape seed oil, germ oil wheat, rapeseed oil, ginger extract, vitamin E, jojoba oil. The agent for topical application was applied to a given area, exposure was carried out in the presence of heat in the temperature range of 35-38.5°C. The agent was removed after 15 min. Compared to using the same topical agent without exposure to heat, the method of the present invention using heat during the exposure period of the topical agent was found to increase the absorption rate of the topical agent by the skin and hairs in the eyebrow and eyelashes. What is expressed in increasing the elasticity and shine of the hairs, giving them a healthy look, and the skin in the treatment area looks more velvety, moisturized, nourished.

Example 2. Experimental studies to increase the adhesion of the pigment were carried out on areas of the skin of the forehead of volunteers. When staining, the dye (oxidizing dye RefectoCil No. 3, natural braun + Oxy Cream 3%) was applied to a given area, the dye exposure was carried out in the presence of heat in the temperature range of 35-38.5°C. The dye was removed after 15 min. An increase in the adhesion of the pigment on the skin is manifested as an increase in the contrast of the color of the pigment in the area of the skin. Contrast comparison was performed between two samples: sample 3 - no heat exposure; sample 4 staining in the presence of heat (Fig. 6). To assess the level of contrast, comparison (and photographing) of the skin area with the results of samples 3 and 4 was carried out in daylight without direct sunlight. For visual interpretation of contrast values, a scale of achromatic shades - Grayscale (gray scale) was used, where the gradation of black color is expressed as a percentage. In this case, 0% represents white (no ink on white paper) and 100% represents black (deep black ink). It has been found that compared to dyeing without heat exposure, the method of the present invention leaves a brighter, more intense color on the skin (due to increased adhesion of pigment molecules) and provides a longer wear time of the pigment on the skin.

Experimental studies were also carried out with the removal of this agent after 5 minutes. Contrast comparison was performed between two samples: sample 5 - no heat exposure, exposure time 15 min; sample 6 - staining in the presence of heat, exposure time 5 minutes (Fig. 7). To assess the level of contrast, comparison (and photographing) of the skin area with the results of samples 5 and 6 was carried out in daylight without direct sunlight. Comparison of samples 5 and 6 shows that reducing the exposure time in the presence of heat does not reduce the quality of staining, the samples obtained are almost identical in terms of contrast. Thus, it has been found that, compared to dyeing without heat, the method of the present invention leaves a print of almost identical intensity on the skin, even with a reduced exposure time.

EXAMPLE 3 Experimental studies to improve adhesion were carried out on the forehead skin of volunteers. When staining, a dye based on a plant component (henna for eyebrows SexyBrowHenna, dark brown) was applied to a given area, the dye was held in the presence of heat, in a temperature range of 35-38.5°C. The dye was removed after 15 min. An increase in the adhesion of the pigment on the skin is manifested as an increase in the contrast of the color of the pigment in the area of the skin. Contrast comparison was performed between two samples: sample 7 - no heat exposure; sample 8 - staining in the presence of heat (Fig. 8). To assess the level of contrast, comparison (and photographing) of the skin area with the results of samples 7 and 8 was carried out in daylight without direct sunlight. For visual interpretation of contrast values, a scale of achromatic shades - Grayscale (gray scale) was used, where the gradation of black color is expressed as a percentage. In this case, 0% represents white (no ink on white paper) and 100% black (a deep black ink patch). It has been found that compared to dyeing without heat exposure, the method of the present invention leaves a brighter, more intense color on the skin (due to increased adhesion of pigment molecules) and provides a longer wearing time of the pigment.

Claims (1)

menta on the skin. Experimental studies were also carried out with the removal of this agent after 5 minutes. When staining, a dye based on a plant component was applied to a given area, the dye was held in the presence of heat, in the temperature range of 35-38.5°C. The dye was removed after 5 min. Contrast comparison was performed between two samples: sample 9 without exposure to heat, exposure time 15 min; sample 10 - staining in the presence of heat, exposure time 5 min (Fig. 9). To assess the level of contrast, comparison (and photographing) of the skin area with the results of samples 9 and 10 was carried out in daylight without direct sunlight. Comparison of samples 9 and 10 shows that reducing the exposure time in the presence of heat does not reduce the quality of staining, the samples obtained are almost identical in terms of contrast. Thus, it has been found that compared to dyeing without the presence of heat, the method of the present invention leaves a print of almost identical intensity on the skin, even with a reduced exposure time. Example 4. Experimental studies of increasing the efficiency of permanent modification of hairs in the area of eyelashes, and reducing the exposure time of the compositions were carried out on hairs in the area of eyebrows and eyelashes of volunteers. When permanently modifying eyelashes, the hairs were first fixed in a given position, then the hairs were treated with a composition that breaks the disulfide bonds of keratin cystine (Sexy Biolash Lift, Perming Lotion composition 1 for eyelash biowave, based on thioglycolic acid). The exposure of the composition was carried out in the presence of heat in the temperature range of 35-38.5°C. After 10 minutes (instead of 15 minutes, taking into account the recommendations for the composition), the composition was removed. Then the hairs were treated with a composition that restores disulfide bonds (Sexy Biolash Lift, composition 2 for eyelash biowave Setting Lotion), also in the presence of heat in the temperature range of 35-38.5 ° C, the composition was removed after 10 minutes (instead of 15 minutes, taking into account composition recommendations). The results showed that reducing the exposure time in the presence of heat does not reduce the quality of the curl and the severity of the curl of the eyelashes, the resulting curl corresponds to the desired result. Thus, it was found that, compared with the permanent modification of hairs in the region of the eyebrows and eyelashes without exposure to heat, the method of the present invention using heat in the temperature range of 35-38.5 ° C during the holding period of the compositions for permanent modification, allows to increase the effectiveness of the permanent modification of hairs. in the area of eyebrows and eyelashes, provides a uniform result of eyelash curling and reduces the exposure time of the formulations. Industrial Applicability The claimed invention meets the criterion of industrial applicability, since it can be manufactured using known technical means. List of links. Non-patent literature 1: book 2002 - Kuleshkova O.N. Technology and equipment for hairdressing: a textbook for the beginning. prof. education; textbook allowance for Wednesdays. prof. education. - 2nd ed., erased. - M.: Academy Publishing Center; ProfObrIzdat, 2002. S. 92. Non-patent literature 2: book 2004 - Hairdressing technology: textbook. allowance for the beginning prof. education / I.Yu. Odinokova, T.A. Chernichenko. - M.: Academy Publishing Center, 2004., p. col. ill.: ill. pp. 126, 131. Non-Patent Literature 3: Book 1976 - Baraboy V.A. Sunbeam. M.: Nauka, 1976. S. 183-191. Non-Patent Literature 4: Book 1987 - Konstantinov A.V. Hairdressing: Prakt. allowance. M.: Higher. school, 1987. - 336 p., ill. Non-Patent Literature 5: Dictionary 2016 - International Electrotechnical Dictionary. Heating by infrared radiation (841-24-01): GOST IEC 60050-841-2016: - FSUE Standartinform, 2016. - P. 10. Patent literature 1: patent 1995 - RU 2043094. Patent literature 2: patent 2005 - RU 2246919. Patent literature 3: patent 2017 - RU 2612310. Patent literature 4: patent 2008 - RU 2325896. Patent Literature 5: Patent Application 1993 - US 5267985. Patent Literature 6: Patent Application 1999 - WO 99/51295. Patent Literature 7: Patent Application 2006 - US 20060272665. Patent literature 8: patent 2018 - RU 2657167. Patent literature 9: patent 2019 - RU 2687778. Patent literature 10: patent 2009 - RU 2367577. Patent literature 11: patent 2009 - RU 2371216. Patent Literature 12: Patent Application 1974 - US 3814111. Patent Literature 13: Patent 1990 - EP 0156984. CLAIM 1. The method of cosmetic impact on the keratin material of the face in the region of the eyebrows and / or eyelashes of a person, includes at least a single application of at least one agent for -