DE2305255A1 - METHOD OF MANUFACTURING A BLANK FOR A KNITTED CLOTHING - Google Patents

Description

Priority: January 2, 1972, No. 4807/72, Great Britain

The invention relates to the production of a knitted blank which is intended to be made into a blanket provided with sleeves Garment to be made-up. In the finished blank, parts of the garment are so with one another connected so that they constitute a single unitary knitted part and are angularly arranged with respect to one another that is desired in the finished garment. Making the blank into a garment is made easier this way.

The invention relates to a method for producing a Blanks for a knitted garment or part of it

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of, which is characterized in that a portion of the garment in the direction of the shoulder area of the garment is knitted on needles of a knitting machine, the two opposing, relatively movable needle beds the part of the garment is formed at the shoulder end by gradually shutting down needles, loops are retained on these needles, the retained loops on needles of one of the opposing needles Needle beds are arranged, another part of the garment is knitted in the direction of the shoulder area and a row of stitches of this further part is placed on needles of the other of the opposing needle beds the two parts are connected to each other by adding one of these retained stitches and one stitch of this row of stitches are placed on the same needle, another row of this further part is knitted, one The single stitch is passed through the retained stitch and the stitch in the row on the same needle, the only stitch is dropped, the needle beds are moved against each other, so that another of the retained stitches and one Stitch of the newly formed course of the further part are brought into the position in which they are arranged on the same needle be knitted another stitch of the further proportion, with a single stitch through the on the same The stitch located on the needle is pulled, the relative movement of the needle beds is carried out again and that Knitting repeatedly in this way wildly until the other part is finished is.

The arrangement of stitches on the same needle can be achieved in each pail by using one of the retained stitches is transferred to a needle holding a stitch of this row or the newly formed row. According to another embodiment the arrangement of the stitches on the same needle in each pail can be made by placing one stitch in this row

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he or this newly formed row is transferred to a needle holding one of these retained meshes. In this optional procedure, each newly formed Row the other part of the garment by operating the single needle that carries the! Two stitches, and the needles which carry the remaining stitches of this course or of the previously newly formed course, where the only needle is in a different needle bed than the other needles that are actuated.

When this other part of the garment is knitted, like this it can be shaped by gradually decommissioning needles stitches are retained on these needles. This part can then be combined with another part of the garment are connected by placing the retained loops on needles of one of the opposing needle loops are arranged, the further part of the garment is knitted in the direction of the shoulder area and a row of stitches of the further part is arranged on needles of the other of the opposing needle beds and then the process middle described above is carried out will. In the manner described above, other parts of the garment can be formed and then with the other parts are connected, until the blank includes all parts that are necessary for the body part and for the sleeves of a garment required are.

When a blank produced according to the invention from the knitting machine is removed, the parts of the blank are usually connected to one another only along some of the lines, longitudinally which they must be connected in the finished garment. The angular arrangement of the wales on the However, ties can be adjusted to match that required in the finished garment is. To complete the garment or a

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Nes part of the garment it is then only necessary to join the parts of the blank along the lines connect, which must be connected to each other in the finished garment, but which by the described Stitch transfer process on the knitting machine cannot be connected. In a sleeved garment it is necessary, for example, that the connecting lines on the sides of the body and a connecting line along each sleeve after removal from the knitting machine will; however, this process is facilitated because those produced in the shoulder area on the knitting machine Connections bring the parts of the garment into the correct mutual angular arrangement.

The invention also relates to a blank for a knitted one Garment made by the process described above.

The invention also relates to a method of manufacture of a garment in which further connections are formed between parts of a blank, which is formed by the Process according to the invention was produced and, if necessary, these parts are connected to parts of a further blank. The invention also relates to the garments so produced.

The invention is illustrated below by way of an example and under Reference to the accompanying drawings in more detail described.

In these drawings, Figure 1 shows part of an item of clothing, as the first stage in the production according to the invention of a blank is knitted.

Figure 2 shows the part of the garment according to Figure 1 in the position in which it is held on the needles of the knitting machine during completion.

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FIG. 3 shows a partially completed billet according to FIG the invention.

Figure 4 is a diagram showing the needles of a V-33et knitting machine and illustrates the successive stages of the method according to the invention for knitting a blank.

FIG. 5 shows in a separate form all parts that make up a form of a blank according to the invention, and Figure 6 is a diagram showing the location of the stop blocks of the thread guide when knitting the blank according to FIG. 5 shows.

The drawings represent pure scheroatic diagrams and For the sake of simplicity, the number of threads and knitted stitches shown is far less than the number shown in an actual knitting machine or in an actual garment.

One type of knitting machine that is used to carry out the inventive Method suitable is a flat knitting machine with V-shaped needle beds, in which the reciprocating Lock shells cooperate with the needle butts, which are slidably arranged in grooves of the needle bed to operate the needles independently and in the through the Lock jackets several yarn guides, which are required to be moved along the rows of needles in the needle beds. At least one of the needle beds of the machine is preferably movable in its longitudinal direction and the needles and locks of the machine are preferably designed so that the needles can be operated to stitch stitches between needles from opposite one another Transfer beds. Otherwise, another mechanism must be used to move stitches along and between the needle beds are provided. Mechanisms for longitudinal movement of needle beds are well known. For example,

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wisely a mechanism similar to that in the knitting machine designed by Edouard Dubied et Cie of Neuqhatel, Switzerland and is represented under the name "JDR". Needles and locks capable of transferring stitches for moving these threads are also well known. So know for example, the needles and locks arranged in the aforementioned JDR machine can be used.

The machine is provided with a removal mechanism or a mechanism used instead of a removal mechanism, which allows needles to be taken out of service but retained stitches while knitting on adjacent ones Needles continues. Suitable hold-down elements are described, for example, in DT-OS 1 956 190 of the applicant.

To carry out the method according to the invention can also a knitting machine other than a V-bed flat knitting machine be used. For example, a circular knitting machine with two opposing needle beds with the required Devices for mesh transfer are provided. On a large diameter circular knitting machine you can more than one large blank according to the invention can be knitted at the same time.

Reference is now made to the drawings. The part 10 of the garment shown in Figures 1 and 2 represents represents half of the front of a garment and is knitted in the direction from the waist to the shoulder area 12, where on the collar 11 a rib or false rib collar 11 with known Structure ^ is formed. Part 10 wild in this one Example knitted on needles 13 of a single needle bed 14 in the V-bed knitting machine, the two opposite needle beds 14 and 15 (Figure 4A). Be up to the axis line 16 of the garment

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all needles 13 involved in knitting part 10 ″ are in operation held; from line 16 onwards, however, will be progressive from the side edge 17 of the part 10 shut down on needles, with the stitch loops located on the needles "on these are retained while knitting continues on other needles. In this way the shoulder area becomes of part 10 is formed along edge 18 (Figure 1). The lines 19 in Figure 1 indicate that the stitches are longitudinal Edge 18 can still be held on the needles after the part 10 has been completed. Part 10 therefore hangs after its completion about in the manner shown in Figure 2 down from the needles.

The molding of the part 10 along the edge 18 does not extend over the entire width of the part 10. A narrow part 22 of this Part is not diminished, and the needles on which it is formed put the knitting along the entire length of the Part 10 continued.

The knitting stage reached upon completion of the part 10 is shown in FIG. 4B in the stitch 23 of the part 22, which are held on inactive needles, are represented by squares, the stitches 24 of which are still actuated Needles held in place are represented by circles.

The knitting machine is now operated so that the stitches 24 of the part 22 are shed and the stitches 23 are transferred to needles of the opposite bed 15. When this has occurred, the situation shown in Figure 4C is present. During the next stage of the knitting, the loops continue to inactive needles of the bed 15 held stationary while a Ärmelte ^ l 25 is knitted DES garment on needles of the bed which are the needles of the bed 15, which support the stitches 23, adjacent . The knitting is carried out in the direction from a rib or flat rib cuff 26 to the shoulder area 27. During knitting, the sleeve portion 25 is made on both edges in the usual manner by inserting previously inactive needles and feeding yarn to them

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Thread widened. The situation when reaching the armpit or forearm line 28 is shown in Figure 4D. Before the shoulder area 27 is knitted, the bed 15 is displaced relative to the bed 14 around the needle which carries the end stitch 24 'of the stitches 24. to bring it into a position opposite to the needle which carries the end stitch 29 'of the stitch 29 of the sleeve part 25. The situation after this movement is shown in Figure 4E. Then the stitch 24 'is transferred to the needle carrying the stitch 29' (FIG. 4F) and a further row of the knitted fabric consisting of stitches 32 (FIG. 4G) is formed on the stitches 29 of the sleeve part 25. In this row, a single stitch loop 32 'is pulled through the two stitches 24' and 29 'and in this way the connection of the parts 10 and 25 along the connecting line 33 is started. In order to form the shoulder area 27 and to connect the parts 10 and 25 to one another at the desired angle, the end stitch 32 'of the stitches 32 of the shoulder area 27 is then transferred to the needle of the bed 14, which carries the adjacent stitch 32 "(FIG 4H). Another row of stitches of the shoulder area 27, which consists of stitches 33, is / glsirickt / a ² ^ single stitch 33 'pulled wildly through the two stitches 32 "and 32" (Figure 41). At the right end of the needle bed 14, however, the needle which carries the end stitch 32 '''of the previous course 32 is shut down and no yarn is fed to this needle. The shaping of the shoulder area 27 along line 34 is started in this way.

Thereafter, the bed 15 is shifted again relative to the bed 14, in order to bring the end stitch 24 "of the stitches 24 in an opposite position to the end stitch 33 'of the stitches 33 (FIG 41). The loop 24 "is then transferred to the needle which the Stitch 33 'and another row of stitches in the shoulder area 27 is knitted with the needle holding stitch 32 '' 'inactive. The leftmost stitch of the shoulder area 27, which is held on the bed I4, is then transferred to the adjacent mesh, as in Figure 4H.

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v.nd knitted another row of stitches, with the On the right side of the bed 14, the needle carrying the stitch adjacent to stitch 32 "'is taken out of service is. The bed 15 is then moved again and the inner terminal stitch of the stitches 24 is transferred to the needle of bed 14, which carries the adjacent end mesh of the shoulder area 27 and the sequence of procedural steps is shown in the above described manner continued.

In this way, the shoulder region 27 in the manner shown in FIG The shape shown is knitted and connected to the part 10 in the correct angular arrangement. The lines 35 in Figure 3 indicate that the loops 36 are held along the line 34 on inactive needles of the bed 14, in the same way as the loops 24 along line 18 of part 10 were recorded. Upon completion of the shoulder area 27, all stitches 24 are from the Needles have been knitted and the stitches along the line 34 are held on inactive needles of the bed 14. Figure 4J show the. Situation after knitting the end row of the shoulder area 27, in which only two needles are in operation, and FIG. 4E shows the situation after the loops 38 of the end course were discarded, leaving only stitches along line 34 on the needles. These stitches are then put on needles of the bed 15 transferred and this bed is then moved to the left in Figure 4 with respect to the bed 14, so that a Situation is reached which corresponds to that at the beginning of the knitting of the part 25 (Fig. 4L). Knitting the next part 39 the blank for the garment (Figure 5) is then started. As can be seen from Figure 5, the part 39, the forms the back of the garment, knitted with parallel side edges up to the axis line 42 and then is the shoulder area 43 is knitted in the same way as was used to knit the shoulder area 27. on in this way the part 39 is connected to the part 25, wherein Meshes along line 43 of part 39 are connected with meshes along line 34 of part 27. At the same time the

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Part 39 formed along line 44 and stitches lying on this line are held in the same way on inactive threads, like mesh along line 34 of part 27 held became.

The stitches are located along line 44 of portion 39 " finally on the bed 15 in the same position as the meshes, which are arranged along the line 34 of the part 37 was.

Then a sleeve part 45 is made in the direction from the waist "to the Cuff and is connected in the manner described above to the line of stitches 44 of part 39. The Part 45 is formed along the mesh line 46, at which he eventually is finally connected to the last knitted part 47 of the garment which is half of the front part of the The garment.

(If necessary, blanks, each only a part of a garment, are knitted as separate pieces and connected to one another outside of the knitting machine will. For example, a blank that includes parts 10, 25 and 29 and a blank that includes parts 45 and 47 are knitted and joined together along line 44 and along the aforementioned edges.

If a method other than the use of a zipper is chosen to close the front part of the garment, the two parts 10 and 47 of the garment are knitted so that they overlap each other, for example for buttoning. A Westover can be achieved by training a Fant be formed along edges 58 and 59 or the blank can be knitted so that it has only two hulls: Ie, both of which can be shaped like the part 39 shown in FIG.

Figure 6 illustrates the setting of the position of the stop blocks of the yarn guide of the knitting machine during the <? w:

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of the parts of the blank derELg. Fig. 5 shows further details of the movement of the needle bed 15 during knitting. The knitting & -3S "lampf"'BfIs 39 and. of the sleeve part 25 is shown. The I ^ r? is, as described above, knitted first in the ge position on the opposite needle beds of the machine in relation to the stops 62 and 63 of the thread guide. The stitches along the line 34 are, as described, held on inactive needles and, after completion of the part 25 and transfer of the stitches 24 held in place, the bed 15 is moved relative to the bed 14 in the manner described above in order to bring needles, which should carry the pinned loops 24, into the position shown at 64 in Pigtsr 6 relative to the stop blocks. In this figure, the needle bed 14 is shown carrying the pinned loops 24 before the transfer to the bed 15 takes place, and the bed 15 is! shown while it carries the gripped stitches after the transfer with this bed and after moving the bed 15 »to bring the gripped stitches to the position 64 beyond the anchorage block 62.

After knitting part 39 up to line 4, this will be Needle bed 15 moved back to the right in Figure 6 to the end 65 of the series of arrested Maschea. 24 to enable the transfer of the first of the meshes 24 on the line of mesh 34 on the $ & del is required which carries the end stitch of the course on line 42. After this transfer and the knitting of the next row of stitches, as described above, the bed becomes moved to the right again in order to bring the second of the meshes 24 into the position suitable for transfer. The movement of the Bed 15 and the knitting of successive courses of the shoulder area of the part 39 are continued and after about the half of the shoulder area has been knitted »Se, the stitches still held on the needles are lengthways

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of line 34 in position with respect to stop blocks 16 and 63 shown at 67 in FIG. If that When knitting of the shoulder area of the piece 39 is complete, the end 66 of the line 34 of pinned stitches is located 24 in the position shown at the top of FIG. The pinned stitches along the line 44 of the part 39 are then transferred to the bed 15 and moved to the left into position 64 before knitting the part 45 will.

After removal from the knitting machine, the blank includes all body and sleeve parts of an item of clothing are connected to one another in the desired angular arrangement to form one piece. To complete the garment it is required, outside the knitting machine, the edges 50 and 51 of parts 10 and 39, the edges 52 and 53 of parts 39 and 47, the edges 54 and 55 of the sleeve part 25 and the edges 56 and 57 of the sleeve part 45 to be connected to each other. Means for releasably closing the edges 58 and 59 of the front parts 10 and 47, for example a bite lock, are attached and after the neck opening has been formed and trimmed the garment is finished.

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Claims (3)

PATENT CLAIMS ^ .z method of making a blank for a knitted Garment or part daviai in which a part a garment is knitted in the direction of the shoulder area of the garment on needles of the knitting machine, which has two opposing, relatively movable needle beds and the part at the shoulder end through progressive cessation of blame is formed by it marked that meshes on the disused Needles are retained, the retained stitches are arranged on needles eires the opposite needle beds another part of the garment is knitted in the direction of the school area and one row of stitches is knitted further part on needles of the other d? opposite each other Needle beds are arranged, the two parts are connected together by one of the pinned loops and one stitch of the course on ds? arranged on the same needle are knitted another row of stitches in this further part, in which a single stitch through the restrained Stitch and the stitch of the row of stitches on the same needle is pulled, the looped stitch is thrown off is, the relative movement of the Ifedelbettm is directed to 3 0 9835/0860.-H- -Aa- another of the stitches held and one of the new To bring formed row of stitches of this further part in a position to be arranged on the same needle, another Stitch row of the further part is knitted in which a single stitch through the stitches on the same needle drawn wildly, the relative movement of the needle beds is carried out again and the knitting is repeated in this way until the other part is completed. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that that to arrange stitches on the same needle in each pail, transfer one of the stitches held onto a needle that carries a stitch of this row or of the newly formed row. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the further part of the garment is formed by progressively shutting down needles, whereby stitches are retained on the idle needles, the retained stitches on one of the opposing needles Needle beds are arranged, another part of the garment is knitted in the direction of the shoulder area is, a row of loops of the further part on the needles of the other of the opposing needle beds: dnet and then the next part knitted first and the on - 15 309835/0860 then knitted further parts are connected to each other, by performing the method steps according to claim 1 or 2. 4. The method according to claim 3, characterized in that that still further parts of the garment are formed and then with other parts according to claim 1 or 2 are connected until the blank includes all parts required for the body and sleeves of a garment. 5- "Method of Making a Knitted Garment or a part of an item of clothing, characterized in that a blank according to one of Claims 1 to 4 and the parts of the blank that were not joined when knitting the blank, but in the finished one Garment should be connected to each other. 309835/0860