DE2002618A1 - Method of cutting fabrics for the manufacture of garments - Google Patents

Description

RSCHROt fRR- K.LEHMANN

l> ATENT ANV ^ lTE
8 Munich 22 Lipovvskystr. IQ «Q QOgIQ

Tel. 77 89 56

is-ka-10

January 21, 197o

1. Kanda shokai Ltd.

2. Kanda Century Ltd,

Method of cutting fabrics for manufacture of clothing

The invention relates to a method for cutting Fabrics for the manufacture of garments,

So far the taking of the measurements, the gradation according to size, the laying of the patterns and the cutting of the fabric for the production of garments a worker with special experience and special skills, however, since not every worker is always rich Experience and skill is the manufacture of garments, which fits snugly on the body of the everywhere Patients have very difficult.

For example, in addition to taking measurements, the Chest, waist, hips, etc. also other personal factors, such as high shoulder, drooping shoulder, round shoulders, curved legs, etc. also at the end

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valid determination of the size data must be taken into account. In the following size graduation, a worker creates paper patterns based on the measurements above Size data using a ruler. When laying the pattern, there is enthusiasm and ingenuity of a worker is also influenced and the skill of the assigned worker is also influenced the accuracy of the cropping.

The object of the invention is to create a method for cutting fabrics for the manufacture of garments, in which all work to cut the suit or costume material without being influenced by experience and the skills of a worker are carried out in such a way that all data regarding the size of the A customer's body can be entered into a ^ computer.

In the cutting method according to the invention for production of clothes are the size data of the body of a customer in a punch card or in a Perforated tape, the size gradation carried out, with point coordinates to determine the fit of Garments are calculated in that the size data perforated in the punched card or in the punched tape Equations are fed that have previously been stored in a computer, the cutting patterns on the fabric based on the calculation that has been made for the size grading, the substance according to is automatically cut to the applied pattern.

With the size gradation, the pattern paper, which corresponds to the body of the customer, can be repeated and quickly used that the constant of the silhouette and the size data are inputted into a computer. When laying out a pattern, the same pattern can be

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pattern to _: hang up with repetition by: achieves that: the same bulk sent you. Computer, fed without a. Influenced by experience. . and the. Skills, of the tailor, .. takes place. The invention therefore allows you to avoid the lack of uniformity of the garments, excessive waste of material and a low level of efficiency due to the inexperience of a worker. Embodiments of the invention are described in more detail below in connection with the enclosed drawings, and they show :. . ,. ..

Fig. 1 - a block diagram d.es-.erf indungsgemässen cutting- .j | . Garment manufacturing process :;

Fig. -2 is a front view to explain the invention .. -according to the size of pants; ; .

Fig. "3. A flow chart, which shows a method for the invention-Γ-. according to the mood of the pattern nut placement shows;

Fig. 4 - a top view, explanation of an example for the laying of the pattern according to the invention;

-Fig. 5 another flow chart showing the selection of the ^

-.-.,; Pattern support according to the invention explained; , ·

6 is a further plan view showing a lay-up position : explained: by a selected lay-on cutting pattern is determined. ..

In Fig. 1. 1 denotes the process of measuring the shape for the production of the garments, 2 the size graduation, 3 the basic equation for determining the point coordinates for _ the size gradation 2, .4 the laying process, 5 the

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Choice program for selecting a required lay-on pattern for the laying process 4, and 6 of the cutting process.

The invention is described in more detail below in connection with the individual operations.

a) When taking measures on the body, the measurements of the chest (1), waist Cw), hips (h) etc. and also special body features such as curved leg Ct ₁ ), high shoulder (t ₂ ) etc. are used to determine the size data ( 7) taken into account,

A which is then punched in the punch card or in the punched tape will.

b) In the case of size grading, point coordinates are calculated to determine the fit of the garments by adding the data punched into the punched card or punched tape to the equations that have previously been stored in a computer. For example, as shown in Fig. 3, a point P ₁ (X ₁ , Y ₁ ), which defines the marker paper, is determined by the basic equation 3, namely:

In the equation, 1, w and h are size data (7), and

»Ss'i» ^θ ι ^{and Θ} 2 ^s: "- ^{nd d} ^ ^e constants (8), which are determined by _{the silhouette of the} garment.

In the same way, further points (P ₂ ), (P _v (P _n ), which the Sd
(Fig. 2).

(P) specifying the pattern paper

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The size gradation is detailed in Connection with pants described.

First, the basic equations shown in Table I are stored in a computer, whereupon the size data (7) and constants (8) determined by the silhouette of the garments are applied to the basic equations, whereby the point coordinates P (X _n JY _n ) of the Pants are determined, Tn of Table I are h. _s Ij s, T ₁ , T ₂ and w size data (7), and ot _n? fj _n > ß "and G _{n are} the constants (8) which are determined by the silhouette of the trousers.

Table I ⁺

\ ■ ^x i H -- M ₊ ev. ^P l ^X 5 ^Y 13. ^P 5 H -- 2 "s ⁺ Pl5 ^P 7 = ^ 6 ⁺ * 7; . ^P W ^X 15 ^{5 T} 2 ^P 15

^P 20 ^X 20

^ ^Y l " ^Y 18V ^e ^ 2O ^Y 20 ^S ^ 20 ^{h + Y} 2U

^{= X} 6

^Θ 23 ⁾

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- ^Y 25

Table I continued

^X 25 ^X i ^Y 25 = tang ^Y i ) + y ^P 25 ^X 32 = ^X 6 ^Y 32 • hi ^P 32 ^X 33 = ^Y i. ^Y 33 ^P 33 A.
15th

The basic equations shown are of principal point coordinates.

c) When grading the size of the pattern on the fabric

becomes the optimal pattern, that is, a pattern | pattern, which requires the smallest volume of fabric, as shown in Fig. M-, selected in that a punch card or a punched tape in the pattern selection program (5) from many relevant patterns stored in the computer is entered. Further, the waist w taking into account the values of the hip is, the length 1 of the pants selected a suitable arrangement pattern from the pattern arrangements A, B, C, ---, such as shown in Fig. K.

The position of the pattern papers of the jacket, the trousers od. · The like is determined by the starting point (Q _1, Q ₂₎ * ₍₃ * Q ^ Q) determined · ...- (QQ) based on the pattern paper

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be determined. The starting point CQ-, Q ^) on the pattern paper of the jacket, trousers and the like, which is determined by the pattern arrangement selected, and the point coordinates (X ₁ , Y ₁ ), CX ₂ , Y ₂ ), -., - (X _n , Y) which define a calculated arrangement in accordance with the body are recorded on a punched card or a punched tape. ■

5 shows a flow chart for the selection of the cutting patterns (F), (G), (H) which correspond to the size data (7) from many cutting patterns stored in the computer. If the size data (7) and the constant (8) of the m silhouette are entered into the computer, the choice is made whether single-row (10) or not and if single-row (10) is selected, it is either closed at the back (doeskin) (11) or middle slit (12) selected, and if the decision for middle slit (12) has been made, the selection is continued with regard to the skirt turn-up (13), the button arrangement (14) or the waistband (15). The reference number (16) denotes double-breasted suit, 17 Ersdz jacket, 18 vest and 19 spare pants.

The marker arrangement shown in Fig. 6 is such that the marker papers whose width (values in the Y-axis direction) is determined and the length "(values in the X-axis direction) is indefinite do not overlap each other. The length of the marker arrangement is determined by the size data (X _n ) of the body, namely the position of each marker paper is relatively moved in the direction of the X-axis and arranged in such a way that there is no overlap and that the least possible volume of the fabric In summary, the arrangement is made in such a way that the pattern arrangement, which corresponds to the size data, is made up of many pattern arrangements.

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gen stored in a computer and either the value on the X-axis or on the Y-axis for determining the position of a certain arrangement, and that the position of the marker arrangement is moved along the determined axis to a position corresponding to the size data.

d) The cutting is done automatically by inserting a punch card or a punched tape into a program-controlled one System (NC) (numeral controlling) system is entered.

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Claims (1)

F a t: e η ta η's ρ r 'ü c ti e'; ; 1.J method for cutting to size for the production of garments, 'characterized' / "that the sizes'in" the Ijochkarte 'or' in "den Lochsirre if en ¹ are perforated, a size grading process is carried out at which point coordinates for determining the fit of Punched tape perforated data are fed to the equations that have previously been stored in a computer, a pattern is laid out on the fabric based on the calculation made during the size grading, and the fabric is cut according to the laid out pattern. 2, method according to claim 1, characterized in that cutting automatically with the help of an NC system is carried out. . Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the optimal cutting pattern is selected by the punch card or the punched tape through the cutting pattern selection program input from many relevant patterns that are stored in a computer will. according to claim 1, characterized in that 1.008 13 / jf) 16 / _s _, _f _. BADORIGfNAL the laying out is carried out in such a way that a laid out cutting pattern which corresponds to the size data, is selected from many designed patterns that are stored in a computer, and has either a value on the X-axis or on the Y-axis about the position of the particular assembly and that the position of the laid-out marker moves along the particular axis to a position that corresponds to the size data. JiIiJ ·! I Ί / 1 ι; Ι Π Lee r s e11 e