DE10136074B4 - Method of grading ladies' outerwear - Google Patents

Abstract

method for grading ladies' outerclothing, characterized that for the growing Chest circumference calculated spans from the shoulder point and from the side seam to the chest point are.

Description

The The present invention relates to a method of grading ladies' outerwear. The present method of grading brings the perfect fit. It is logical and goes to the degree of millimeter accuracy on.

The Values for Grading can be done according to the attitude of the person, according to the target group and change the character of the figure. The method of grading remains unchanged. This is especially true for the front of the models by the ever-increasing bust size larger sizes in the Women's clothing.

With This grading method is used by the entire clothing industry a better fit and quality of products / models help and thus to an image revaluation, fewer complaints and one successful sale. Furthermore becomes more suitable for the cutting professionals and users of this grade Help success.

The Clothing becomes commercially available in the clothing industry Sizes offered. For this the graduation is necessary, the technical conversion of the Models in different sizes.

In The garment industry is usually the cuts of the models graded on the computer. The clothing manufacturers stand among others smaller companies three big ones Software manufacturer for Initial production and grading available: Assyst company; Company Lectra; Company Gerber.

DE 694 10 464 T2 discloses an apparel grading information system comprising a central processing unit, display means, input / output means and storage means for storing an operating system, wherein a) the central memory of the computer comprises the description of the geometries of the various pieces of garment to be classified, a dimension table and a relationship between the displacements stores characteristic points of the parts of the garment to be graduated and changes in dimensions with the garment size; b) the central unit means for calculating the distances between the dimensions of successive clothing sizes and for deriving the grading rules to be applied to the various characteristic points of the different parts of the garment to be graded from the relationship between the displacements of the characteristic points of the parts of a garment and the dimensional changes the size and from the dimension table and for supplying these determined grading rules by the central unit to the various corresponding characteristic points of the garment has; and c) a mass storage and / or a database storing the gradations supplied by the central processing unit.

EP 0 516 868 A1 discloses an arrangement for operating a plurality of machines for making garments in a network, comprising: providing a computer with a screen on which a computer program created in a high-level language for the construction of garments, in particular the instruction for which individual steps the pattern of a particular item of clothing can be produced, displayed in plain text and changed; the provision of a graphics computer program for displaying the pattern on a screen; the option of being able to arbitrarily modify the pattern displayed on the screen by means of interactive communication between the operator and the computer, the changes made being stored in a database to which the design program also has access, and the modifications being displayed in plain text on the screen are; the provision of a database in which basic instructions for the construction of certain garments and size-related deviations are stored, and the use of another database, with the help of which body dimensions can be converted into construction dimensions; the provision of at least one sewing machine controlled by the computer and the specification by the computer of the sewing parameters to be maintained by the sewing machine in accordance with the specific course of the seam; and the option to change the parameters specified by the sewing machine by the operator, whereby the changes carried out are taken over by the computer and at the same time the sewing program (seam course, sewing parameters) is changed and stored.

EP 0 342 535 A2 relates to the construction of basic sections according to the diminished dimensions of a person / figure. The document does not include the current state of the art grading a finished model in various sizes and thus does not relate to a grading method as the present Er making.

The Grading values for the enlargement / reduction Cuts are usually on the recommendation of the software manufacturer assigned to the individual routes without a method. That's working but not in the front of women's outerwear.

By The breasts in women's breasts become much larger in the larger sizes bigger, but the armhole enlarges only slightly and per size the side length gets shorter per size. The Breast width becomes wider than the neck hole and the shoulder width added together.

A special method is necessary for the result of a good Fit in all sizes.

It is therefore the object of the present invention, a method of To develop grading that leads to the perfect fit for all sizes.

These The object is achieved by a method for grading ladies' outerwear with the features of claim 1. The present invention relates mainly on the gradation of the front part. Preferred embodiments of the invention emerge from the dependent claims.

The inventive method The grading has been developed for the computer and to use for the software the well-known software vendors responsible for the apparel industry Offer cutting software. Likewise, the method is also of to be used by those who do not have a computer and manually grade.

The Grading values given here are a good fit for the respective commercial sizes in the Confection. The grading values took into account that the Bust size per size about 1 cm more enlarged than the hip. (In the last series measurements of Institut Hohenstein at the end of December 1994 released).

• 1. Konstruktives Gradieren von Größe 38 bis Größe 46
• 2. Konstruktives Gradieren von Größe 46 bis Größe 52 und größer
• 3. Konstruktives Gradieren von Größe 38 bis Größe 32

The method according to the present invention consists in the workflow of three phases. There are different grading values for these individual phases. The method remains the same.

• 1. Constructive grading from size 38 to size 46
• 2. Constructive grading from size 46 to size 52 and larger
• 3. Constructive grading from size 38 to size 32

The inventive method will be described in detail below with reference to the drawing, namely the example of an embodiment, here by a blazer.

Short description of Drawings:

1 Fig. 3 shows blanks for a blazer for grading from size 38 to size 46 according to the method of the invention;

2 shows graduation sketches for a blazer; similar 1 but for a grade 46 to size 52 grade according to the method of the invention;

3 shows a Gradiernest with arithmetical Aussteck from tip to tip and from side seam to chest point, according to the inventive method; and

4 shows a grading test with built-in calculator integrated into the model.

• a. Von Größe 38 bis Größe 46 ineinandergezeichnet mit genauen Angaben der Gradierwerte (vgl. 1): • für eine Größe, von Größe 38 bis Größe 40 • für vier Größen, von Größe 38 bis Größe 46
• b. Von Größe 46 bis Größe 52 ineinandergezeichnet mit genauen Angaben der Gradierwerte (vgl. 2): • für eine Größe, von Größe 46 bis Größe 48 • für drei Größen, von Größe 46 bis Größe 52

The grading method of the present invention specifically provides:

• a. From size 38 to size 46, they are interlaced with exact details of the grading values (cf. 1 ): • for one size, from size 38 to size 40 • for four sizes, from size 38 to size 46
• b. From size 46 to size 52, they are interlaced with exact details of the grading values (cf. 2 ): • for one size, from size 46 to size 48 • for three sizes, from size 46 to size 52

In the following, reference is made to the pictorial sectional representation of the gradation according to FIG 1 to 4 (from size 38 to size 46, or from size 46 to size 52) as a demonstration of the inventive method of grading.

General preparation for the grading:

1. Grading information at the computer

All Model parts are placed horizontally in the direction of X:

Move: lies with back center down, hem to the left. Front: lies with front middle up and with the hem to the left. Side panel: lies with the backseam seam down and with the hem to the left. Two seam Sleeve:  Upper sleeve lies with the rear back seam upwards and with the hem to the left (so that you can check it into the front armhole can insert without having to freak him before).

Forearm: lies with the rear back seam down and with the hem to the left, so that the upper and Unterärmel to Control can put together.

Plus X = + X

means (on the computer) move to the right

Minus X = - X

means (on the computer) move to the left

Plus Y = + Y

means (on the computer) Move Up

Minus Y = - Y

means (on the computer) move down

All Grading information on the computer also applies to the manual Grading.

Table for body measurements:

Important information:

The Bust size will increase by 1 for each size cm more graded than the hip. Because when grading by half If a cut is assumed, the hip width is graded less by 0.5 cm as the bust size. These 0.5 cm are applied to the different dividing seams in the Hip height through lower grading values than considered in the bust size.

A. Grading of a blazer from size 38 to size 46 (cf. 1 )

a. Grading back part:

Reason for armhole / shoulder point:

• Grading of the mirror width 0.2 cm + 0.3 cm shoulder width = 0.5 cm.
• Grading the spine width 0.6 cm; By difference of 0.1 cm, the position of the armhole will be straighter per size

b. Grading side panel:

c. Grading front part:

For the gradation the front part comes the inventive method for grading for use. For the grading of the front part there are two formulas. They are the foundation for the inventive method the grading.

For the growing Chest circumference creates patches from the shoulder tip and side seam to the chest point. These purely calculated ausnäher are assigned to the design of the model. This by the gradation arising and later not existing Ausnäher become necessary because with the larger sizes the front length gets longer, the side seam but must remain short. By deepening the armhole will be in the big ones Sizes that Side seam even shorter, the front length but many times longer than at size 38. Same applies to the breast width. It is relative to the neck hole and the Shoulder width a multiple wider.

The formulas:

• Front length minus Back increase = effective Front length (1)

Example:

• Front length grading: 0.8 cm minus back elevation 0.3 cm = 0.5 cm, ie 0.5 cm is the amount of provisional nib per size from the side seam to the chest point Breast width minus mirror and shoulder width = effective breast width (2)

Example:

• Grade of breast width: 1.1 cm minus (mirror width 0.2 cm plus shoulder width 0.3 cm) = 0.6 cm, d. H. 0.6 cm is the Amount of the provisional resulting Ausnähers per size of the Halsspitze to the breast point in addition gets in the back the armhole is straightened by 0.1 cm per size.

Example:

• Grading the spine width: 0.6 cm minus (mirror width 0.2 cm plus shoulder width 0.3 cm) logo CNRS logo INIST 0.1 cm
• Difference: = 0.1 cm per size, the the armhole becomes straight to the center. This Amount becomes from the computational Ausschnäher shoulder point / Brustpunkt deducted in the front. The straighter position of the armhole in the back must be for balance also considered in the front part become.

The means that Armhole also in the front part from the Ae-point to the shoulder by 0.1 cm per Size straighter is provided. From the computational patch of 0.6 cm these become 0.1 cm still peeled off.

Of the Ausnäherausfall is 0.5 cm from the tip of the throat to the breast point per size. Does the model have a placket underneath the lapel, as in this blazer, so are of the calculated Ausnäher from the tip of the throat to the breast point again deducted 0.2 cm and in this button graded. It will stay for the patch from the tip of the throat to the breast point 0.3 cm per size left over.

For an optimal Fit in the spirit of the times and for a more advantageous figure you should always strive that the Ausnäher in the front of the breast point not too big.

Of the computational Ausnäher from the tip of the toe to the breast point becomes 0.3 cm in this model for size 38 to Size 40 and 1.2 cm for Size 38 to Size 46 deep.

Grading front part:

0.6 cm is the amount of provisional resulting Ausnähers per size of the Halsspitze to the breast point.

By the difference from the breast width to the shoulder and neck mirror width arises at the tip of the throat to the breast point a mathematical Ausnäher. The Depth of this nipper can be made smaller by distributing it to existing plugs in a model be held, such. B. in this blazer on a small Ausnäher below the lapel.

The calculation for this patch is as follows:
Spine width 0.6 cm minus (mirror width 0.2 cm plus shoulder width 0.3 cm) gives a difference of 0.1 cm. By this difference, the armhole becomes straighter toward the shoulder. What you change in the back on the armhole, you have to change the front part of the armhole.

chest width 1.1 cm minus (mirror and shoulder width 0.5 cm) = 0.6 cm; minus 0.1 cm straightened armhole (like the back arm hole) = 0.5 cm; minus 0.2 cm Reversausaus = 0.3 cm. If there is no way for one Reversausnäher There are 0.2 cm more, so 0.5 cm.

The lapel height of the blazer stays at the same point. If the I lapel should have the same width as in size 38, then it is drawn to the mirror broadening of 0.2 cm in the direction of - Y, break point reverse beginning. The Crochetnaht remains the same size for all sizes. The Ausnäherende under the Re vers remains at the same height. The buttonhole becomes deeper by 0.2 cm per size and longer by the front length of the gradation.

Of the by the gradation formed Ausnäher from the side seam to Breast point results from the selected front length minus Back increase.

The intertwined sizes 38 and 46, the intermediate sizes 40, 42, and 44 assigned and in seconds the computer has the Size calculated.

Unterärmel

The mathematical patches from the shoulder point to the chest point and from the side seam to the chest point are integrated into the lines of the respective models. The putting on of these buttons can be done on the computer within seconds. d. Grading of the two-seamed sleeve: Upper sleeve: lies with the back side up, with the hem to the left Forearm: lies with the back down, with the hem to the left upper sleeve

forearm

B. grading a blazer from size 46 to Size 52

a. Grading back part:

Reason for armhole / shoulder point:

• Grading of the mirror width 0.2 cm + 0.25 cm shoulder width = 0.45 cm.
• Grading the spine width 0.9 cm; By difference of 0.45 cm, the position of the armhole will be straighter per size

b. Grading side panel:

c. Grading front part:

For the gradation the front part comes the inventive method for grading for use. For the grading of the front part there are two formulas. They are the foundation for the inventive method the grading.

For the growing Chest circumference creates patches from the shoulder tip and side seam to the chest point. These purely calculated ausnäher are assigned to the design of the model. This by the gradation arising and later not existing Ausnäher become necessary because with the larger sizes the front length gets longer, the side seam but stay short measure. By deepening the armhole will be in the big ones Sizes that Side seam even shorter, the front length but many times longer than at size 38. Same applies to the breast width. It is relative to the neck hole and the Shoulder width a multiple wider.

The formulas:

• Front length minus Back increase = effective Front length (1)

Example:

• Front length grading: 1.4 cm minus back elevation 0.3 cm = 1.1 cm, ie 1.1 cm is the amount of provisional nib per size from the side seam to the chest point Breast width minus mirror and shoulder width = effective breast width (2)

Example:

• Grade of breast width: 1.4 cm minus (mirror width 0.2 cm plus shoulder width 0.25 cm) = 0.95 cm, d. H. 0.95 cm is the amount of the provisional resulting Ausnähers per size of the Halsspitze to the breast point. additionally gets in the back the armhole is straightened by 0.45 cm per size.

Example:

• Grading the spine width: 0.9 cm minus (mirror width 0.2 cm plus shoulder width 0.25 cm) = 0.45 cm
• Difference: = 0.45 cm per size, making the armhole straighter will be able to the middle front. This amount will be paid by the computational Ausnäher Shoulder tip / chest point deducted in the front. The straighter Position of the armhole in the back must be for the balance also considered in the front part become.

The means that Armhole also in the front part from the Ae point to the shoulder by 0.45 cm straighter per size is provided. From the mathematical Aussteck of 0.95 cm these are 0.45 cm still deducted.

Of the Ausnäherausfall is 0.5 cm from the tip of the throat to the breast point per size. Does the model have a placket underneath the lapel, as in this blazer, so are of the calculated Ausnäher from the tip of the throat to the breast point again deducted 0.2 cm and in this button graded. It will stay for the patch from the tip of the throat to the breast point 0.3 cm per size left over.

For an optimal Fit in the spirit of the times and for a more advantageous figure you should always strive that the Ausnäher in the front of the breast point not too big.

Of the computational Ausnäher from the tip of the toe to the breast point becomes 0.3 cm in this model for size 46 to Size 48 and 0.9 cm for Size 46 to Size 52 deep.

Grading front part:

0.95 cm is the amount of provisional resulting Ausnähers per size of the Halsspitze to the breast point.

By the difference from the breast width to the shoulder and neck mirror width arises at the tip of the throat to the breast point a mathematical Ausnäher. The Depth of this nipper can be made smaller by distributing it to existing plugs in a model be held, such. B. in this blazer on a small Ausnäher below the lapel.

The calculation for this patch is as follows:
Back width 0.9 cm minus (mirror width 0.2 cm plus shoulder width 0.25 cm) gives a difference of 0.45 cm. By this difference, the armhole becomes straighter toward the shoulder. What you change in the back on the armhole, you have to change the front part of the armhole.

chest width 1.4 cm minus (mirror and shoulder width 0.45 cm) = 0.95 cm; minus 0.45 cm straightened armhole (like the back arm hole) = 0.5 cm; minus 0.2 cm reverse patch = 0.3 cm. If there is no way for one Reversausnäher There are 0.2 cm more, so 0.5 cm.

The lapel height of the blazer stays at the same point. If the lapel is to have the same width as in size 38, then it is pulled around the mirror broadening of 0.2 cm in the direction of - Y, break point reverse beginning. The Crochetnaht remains the same size for all sizes. The Ausnäherende under the Lapel remains at the same height. The one under the reverse spreader gets lower by 0.2 cm per size and longer by the front length of the gradation.

Of the by the gradation formed Ausnäher from the side seam to Breast point results from the selected front length minus Back increase.

The interlocked sizes 46 and 52, the intermediate sizes 48 and 50 and within seconds the computer has calculated the sizes.

The mathematical patches from the shoulder point to the chest point and from the side seam to the chest point are integrated into the lines of the respective models. The putting on of these buttons can be done on the computer within seconds. d. Grading of the two-seamed sleeve: Upper sleeve: lies with the back side up, with the hem to the left Forearm: lies with the back down, with the hem to the left upper sleeve

forearm

The inventive method The grading brings the perfect fit. It is logical and The graduation is accurate to the nearest millimeter.

The Values for the grading can according to the attitude of the person, according to target groups and peculiarities changed the figure become. Unchanged is the method of the invention of grading. This method refers in particular to the Front parts of the models and thus on the larger bust huge Sizes in the Women's clothing.

Claims (9)

A method of grading ladies' outerwear pieces, characterized in that for the increasing chest circumference calculated seams from the shoulder point and from the side seam to the breast point are provided. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that that one effective front length of the garment is calculated from front length minus back increase. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that that the Amount of calculated sorter per size of the Side seam to the breast point equal to the grade of the front length minus Back elevation is. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that a effective breast width is calculated from breast width minus mirror and shoulder width. Method according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that Amount of calculated sorter per size of the Throat tip to the breast point equal to the degree of breast width minus the sum of gradation of the mirror width and gradation the shoulder width is. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that move the armhole is steeper. A method according to claim 6, characterized in that in the back the armhole for a gradation of size 38 to size 46 by 0.1 cm per size and for a gradation of size 46 to size 52 by 0.45 cm is steeper for each size. Method according to claim 6 or 7, characterized that the Amount to make the armhole steeper for each size front center is calculated from the calculated sutures shoulder tip / chest point Front part is subtracted, with the steeper position of the armhole in the back also considered in the front part becomes. Method according to claim 8, characterized in that that this Armhole also in the front part from the Ae point (sleeve insertion point) to Shoulder is placed steeper, this amount being calculated from the Ausnäher is deducted.