DE19600216A1 - Powder compsn. for rendering human hair blond - Google Patents

Abstract

A compsn. for rendering human hair blond is based on (a) a solid peroxy cpd. and (b) a solid alkali support, and is a powder contg. also 4-20 wt.% of an ether of: formula X-O-Y, with m.pt. below 60 deg C. X, Y = 4-18C (un)satd. alkyl gps. or 8-22C cycloalkyl, alkylcycloalkyl, alkoxycycloalkyl or cycloalkyl-allyl gps.

Description

The invention relates to a bleaching agent for human hair in powder form is present.

The change in shape and color of the hair represents an important area of the modern cosmetics. This can change the appearance of hair current fashion trends as well as the individual wishes of the individual Person. Perm and other can shape the hair changing procedures almost regardless of the type of hair to be treated be set. In contrast, dyeing and bleaching processes in particular certain initial hair colors limited. So are suitable for lightening procedures ren, the so-called bleaching process, essentially only dark blonde or lighter hair. The basics of the bleaching process are known to the person skilled in the art and can be found in relevant monographs, e.g. B. by Kh. Schrader, basics and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, 1989, Dr. Alfred Hüthig Verlag, Hei delberg, or W. Umbach (ed.), Cosmetics, 2nd edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, New York.

So are usually solid or pasty preparations with solid oxi dation agents immediately before use with a dilute hydrogen  peroxide solution mixed. This mixture is then applied to the hair and rinsed out after a certain exposure time.

The preparations mentioned before using a hydrogen per oxide solution are mixed, are hereinafter referred to as "bleaching agents" or Called "bleaching powder". All listed quantities refer to unless otherwise stated, only on these preparations.

Neither the pasty nor the powdered bleaching agents that are on today the market can be considered optimal. While the blondierwir can be described as satisfactory on the hair, but still exist a number of drawbacks and problems in both manufacturing and manufacturing Handling these funds. In the case of pasty agents for reasons of stability high viscosity can be set, especially the dosage and the Mi behavior in the hydrogen peroxide solution is not yet satisfactory. At Powdery agents are the dust behavior, both in the assembly tion as well as in the application, as well as the mixing behavior in the Application at the center of improvement efforts.

In EP-B1-0 560 088, for example, the dust behavior was proposed of bleaching powders by adding oils or liquid waxes ser.

It has now surprisingly been found that bleaching powder with comparable Rem dust behavior, very good shelf life and other advantageous Properties when these powders are certain substances from the group of ethers contain. This is particularly surprising because many of these ethers, and even preferred according to the invention, even as being relatively unstable Oxidizing agents apply.  

The present invention therefore relates to agents for bleaching human hair based on at least one solid peroxo compound and at least one solid alkali carrier, characterized in that it is a powder are present and 4-20% by weight of an ether of the general formula (I),

X-O-Y (I)

in which X and Y are independent of each other for linear and branched, saturated and mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl groups, each with 4 to 18 carbon atoms or cycloalkyl groups, alkylcycloalkyl groups, alkoxycycloalkyl groups pen or cycloalkyl-alkyl groups each having 8 to 22 carbon atoms with the proviso that the melting point of the ether is below 60 ° C ent hold.

The bleaching agents according to the invention contain as the first mandatory component a solid peroxo compound. The selection of this peroxo compound is subject to in principle no restrictions; usual peroxovers known to the person skilled in the art Bonds are, for example, ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxydisulfate, Sodium peroxydisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, Potassium peroxide phosphate, percarbonates such as magnesium percarbonate, peroxides such as Barium peroxide as well as perborates, urea peroxide and melamine peroxide. Under these peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination, According to the invention, the inorganic compounds are preferred. Especially be peroxidisulfates are preferred, in particular combinations of at least two Peroxydisulfates.  

The peroxo compounds are before in the bleaching agents according to the invention added in amounts of 20-80% by weight, especially in amounts of 40-70% by weight contain.

The bleaching mites according to the invention contain as a further mandatory component tel an alkalizing agent that is used to adjust the alkaline pH of the Application mix serves. According to the invention, those skilled in the art if known for conventional bleaching agents such as aminonium, Alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, hy droxycarbonates, silicates, especially metasilicates, and alkali phosphates ver be applied. In a preferred embodiment, the fiction according to bleaching powder at least two different alkalizing agents. Mixtures of, for example, one metasilicate and one Hydroxycarbonate may be preferred.

The bleaching agents according to the invention preferably contain alkalizing agents in Amounts of 10-30% by weight, especially 15-25% by weight.

Essential to the invention is the third mandatory component of the bleaching powder, the Ethers of formula (I). As particularly suitable according to the invention within this In such groups, ethers in which X and Y are independent have been found from each other for linear and branched, saturated and single or multiple are unsaturated alkyl groups each having 4 to 18 carbon atoms. Such Examples of ethers are di-n-octyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether. Especially preferred ethers are those in which X and Y are independently of one another are linear saturated alkyl groups having 6 to 14 carbon atoms. On According to the invention, particularly preferred ether is the di-n-octyl ether, the is commercially available under the name Cetiol®OE.  

The bleaching agents according to the invention contain the ethers of the formula (I) preferably in an amount of 5-15% by weight.

Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous if the inventive Bleaching agents contain non-ionic surfactants. Are there those surfactants that have an HLB of 5.0 and greater have, preferred. For the definition of the HLB value is expressly on the explanations in Hugo Janistyn, Handbook of Cosmetics and Fragrances, III. Volume: Die Toiletries, 2nd Edition, Dr. Alfred Hüthig Verlag Heidelberg, 1973, pages 68-78 and Hugo Janistyn, paperback of modern perfumery and Cosmetics, 4th edition, Scientific Publishing Company m.b.H. Stuttgart, 1974, pages 466-474, as well as the original works cited therein.

Particularly preferred nonionic surface-active substances are among them because of the easy processability substances that are commercially available as solids or liquids are available in pure form. The definition of purity in this context does not refer to chemically pure compounds. Rather, especially when it comes to products on a natural basis acts, mixtures of different homologues are used, for example with different alkyl chain lengths, as is the case with products based on natural Fats and oils can be obtained. Also with alkoxylated products usually mixtures of different degrees of alkoxylation. The term In this context, purity refers rather to the fact that the selected substances preferably free of solvents, adjusting agents and others Accompanying substances should be.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are

• - Alkoxylated fatty alcohols with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 16, carbon atoms in the fatty alkyl group and 1 to 30, in particular 1 to 15, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units. Preferred fatty alkyl groups are, for example, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, but also stearyl, isostearyl and oleyl groups. Particularly preferred compounds of this class are, for example, lauryl alcohol with 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units, oleyl and cetyl alcohol each with 5 to 10 ethylene oxide units, cetyl and stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof with 10 to 30 ethylene oxide units and the commercial product Aethoxal®B (Henkel) Lauryl alcohol, each with 5 ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units. In addition to the usual alkoxylated fatty alcohols, so-called "end-capped" compounds can also be used according to the invention. In the case of these compounds, the alkoxy group does not have an OH group at the end, but is "closed" in the form of an ether, in particular a C1-C4-alkyl ether. An example of such a compound is the hand ice cream product Dehypon® LT 054, a C _12-18 fatty alcohol + 4.5 ethylene oxide butyl ether.
• - Alkoxylated fatty acids with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 16, carbon atoms in the fatty acid group and 1 to 30, in particular 1 to 15, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units. Preferred fatty acids are, for example Lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic and oleic acid.
• alkoxylated, preferably propoxylated and in particular ethoxylated, mono-, Di- and triglycerides. Examples of preferred compounds are glycerin monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide.
• - Polyglycerol esters and alkoxylated polyglycerol esters. Preferred connections This class includes, for example, poly (3) glycerol diisostearate  (Commercial product: Laineform®TGI (Henkel)) and poly (2) glycerol polyhydroxy stearate (commercial product: Dehyinuls®PGPH (Henkel)).
• - Sorbitan fatty acid esters and alkoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters as in for example sorbitan monolaurate and sorbitan monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide (EO).
• Alkylphenols and alkylphenol alkoxylates with 6 to 21, in particular 6 to 15, Carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 to 30 ethylene oxide and / or Propylene oxide units. Preferred representatives of this class are, for example Nonylphenol + 4 EO, nonylphenol + 9 EO, octylphenol + 3 EO and Octylphenol + 8 EO.

Particularly preferred classes of nonionic surfactants represent the alkoxylated fatty alcohols, the alkoxylated fatty acids and the Alkylphenols and alkylphenol alkoxylates.

Means according to the invention have proven to be particularly advantageous: contain non-ionic surfactants in amounts of 1-5% by weight ten.

Furthermore, the bleaching agents according to the invention can all be found in such accessories contain known active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries. In many cases ent keep the colorants at least one surfactant, in principle both anionic as well as zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, however, the surfactants have proven to be advantageous choose from anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants. Anioni cal surfactants can be particularly preferred.  

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, ether carboxylic acid salts with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule such as C₁₂H₂₅- (C₂H₄O) ₆-CH₂-COONa and in particular salts of saturated and especially unsaturated C8-C22 carboxylic acids such as oleic acid, stearic acid, Isostearic acid and palmitic acid.

These anionic surfactants should preferably be in solid, in particular powder form available. Soaps which are solid at room temperature are very particularly preferred, especially sodium stearate. These are preferably in amounts of 5 to 20 % By weight, in particular 10 to 15% by weight.

Particularly suitable nonionic surfactants are C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oli goglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues. Especially the nonethoxylated ones Compounds that are also commercially available in powder form have proven to be particularly suitable.

Examples of those which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention Cationic surfactants are especially quaternary ammonium compounds. Before ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides and dialkyl are added dimethylammoniumchloride and Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride, e.g. B. Cetyl trimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylam monium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Further according to the invention usable cationic surfactants are the quaternized protein hydrolyzates represents.  

Alkylamidoamines, especially fatty acid amidoamines such as that under the designation Tego Amid®S 18 available stearylamidopropyldimethylamine, stand out in addition to a good conditioning effect, especially through its good biological Degradability.

Quaternary ester compounds are also very readily biodegradable called "Esterquats", such as that under the name Dehyquart®F 75 in Ab Mixture of distearoylethylhydroxyethylammoni available with cetearyl alcohol ummethosulfate.

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants may vary because they are uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred in the production of these substances from native vegetable or animal raw materials fen to go out, so that mixtures of substances with different, from the respective alkyl chain lengths dependent on raw material.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• - Nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate-Co polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
• - cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers and others, as a solid stable or commercially available compounds,
• - zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers that are stable as solids or before are available as commercial products,  
• - Anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polyacrylics acids and vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, provided they are solids are stable or preferably commercially available,
• Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, Gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gum men, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellu loose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives like Amy loose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. B. polyvinyl alcohol,
• Structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid,
• - Hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephaline, as well as silicone oils
• Protein hydrolyzates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, Soy protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates, their condensation products with Fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolyzates,
• - perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Dyes for coloring the preparations,
• - Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their salts,
• - cholesterol,
• - fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, Fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters,
• - fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids,
• Swelling and penetration substances such as carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, Ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates.

The person skilled in the art will select these further substances according to the desired one Meet properties of means.

Since it has been shown that the presence in particular of larger quantities on oils and liquid waxes, such as paraffin oil can, inventive agents, especially if the hair does not have should be moderately weighed down, in a preferred embodiment without them Oils and liquid waxes are made up. It should be made clear that the The term oils is the well-known fatty and synthetic oils, but not perfume oils includes, which are of course used in small quantities as fragrances can.

The bleaching agents according to the invention can be prepared according to the customary processes known to the person skilled in the art.

A preferred method is the inorganic, as a solid components, optionally after mixing z. B. in a Drais-Mi shear, submit and spray with the surfactant. This he follows preferably at room temperature, i. H. at temperatures below approx. 30 ° C; only if the selected dust-binding components in these Temperatures are not in the form of a liquid; apply.

Another manufacturing process for the bleaching agents according to the invention is the mixing of all components and the subsequent treatment, preferably at elevated temperatures, in the fluidized bed.  

Finally, it is also possible to use the bleaching agents according to the invention by Ver grind all components in a ball mill, a ring roller mill or ins to produce a special spindle mill.

For the application of the agents according to the invention on the hair, the pul deform bleaching agent immediately before application with a hydrogen peroxide solution mixed. The concentration of this hydrogen peroxide solution is on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the ge desired effect determined; usually 6 to 12 percent solutions are in Water used. The proportions of bleaching powder and hydrogen Peroxide solution are usually in the range 1: 1 to 1: 2, with a Excess hydrogen peroxide solution is chosen especially when no excessive bleaching effect is desired.  

Examples

Two mixtures were prepared, the composition (in g) of which is shown in Table 1 are given:

Both agents were absolutely dust-free and resulted when mixed with H₂O₂-Lö solutions within a short time.

Claims (10)

1. Means for bleaching human hair based on at least one solid peroxo compound and at least one solid alkali carrier, characterized in that it is in the form of a powder and 4-20% by weight of an ether of the general formula (I), XOY (I) in the X and Y independently of one another for linear and branched, saturated and mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl groups each having 4 to 18 carbon atoms or cycloalkyl groups, alkylcycloalkyl groups, alkoxycycloalkyl groups or cycloalkyl-alkyl groups each having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the melting point of the ether is below half of 60 ° C contains. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is an inorganic contains solid peroxo compound. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that X and Y independently for linear and branched, saturated and mono or polyunsaturated alkyl groups each having 4 to 18 carbon atoms stand.   4. Means according to claim 3, characterized in that X and Y independently from each other represent linear saturated alkyl groups with 6 to 14 Carbon atoms. 5. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the Ether of formula (I) is contained in an amount of 5-15 wt .-%. 6. Agent one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is additionally a nonionic surfactant selected from

• alkoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms and 1 to 30 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units, which may have an alkyl end group, in particular a methyl group, at the end of the alkoxy group chain,
• alkoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides,
• Polyglycerol esters and alkoxylated polyglycerol esters,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and alkoxylated sorbitan solid acid esters,
• - Alkylphenol alkoxylates with 6 to 21 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 to 30 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units

contains. 7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it is the nonionic surfactant is contained in amounts of 1-5 wt .-%. 8. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it Soaps that are solid at room temperature, especially sodium stearate, in amounts of 5- 20% by weight, in particular 10-15% by weight, based on the total powder, contains.   9. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is free of oils and liquid waxes, with the exception of perfume oils.