DE1807503U - BUASTER. - Google Patents

Description

RA. 770 552 * 12/22/59

DR. F. ZUMSTEIN - DR. E. ASSMANN - DR. R. KOENIGSBERQER

PATENT LAWYERS

TELEPHONE: 22 34 76

C TELEQRAMME = ZUMPAT MUNICH 2,

* BRÄUHAUSSTRASSE 4 / III

POST CHECK ACCOUNT: MUNICH 911 39

BANK ACCOUNT:
BANK H. HOUSES

Ho / egg,
3/2/1
A 43 256

International latex Corporation, Dover, Delaware, U.S.A.

Brassiere

The innovation "concerns bras that have wrinkles, as it can be observed with sewn bras, largely -diminished or eliminated and which is smooth and are wrinkle-free.

Bras with seams on the breast cups are more popular because of the decorative effect of these seams Popularity. These seams, which are attached as quilting seams, also act as reinforcement for the fabric of the breast shell and they help to maintain the shape. The mesh the breast shells should have as little shrinkage as possible;

e.g. sanforized cotton broadcloth which has a water shrinkage of about 1 #. Such a seam can have the most varied of shapes and figures, for example a circular seam can be used The seams are arranged in concentric, equidistant circles. However, other shapes and patterns can also be used to be sewn.

Bras with breast cups that are provided with quilting seams are pleasing and widespread, but they have the Disadvantage that the breast shells become wrinkled after washing and therefore lose their original smooth and wrinkle-free appearance. which is dried after washing in such a way that it can be brought into a state in which with very little work It can be worn again immediately, leading consumers to choosing clothing that is unsightly after washing Wrinkles are assessed unfavorably, bras that show such wrinkles after washing are judged by no longer appreciated by the wearers.

The hiring relates to a brassiere in which the breast cups have a smooth and wrinkle-free outline, with the fabric of these breast cups shows little water shrinkage and the breast cups have decorative stitching as reinforcement, which are designed as quilting seams, the for this

Seams used threads have a water shrinkage that is approximately that of the tissue and also an elongation a load of 1 50 g not more than 2% and / or where these threads are loosely incorporated.

In Figure 1, a brassiere with circular seams is shown from the front.

FIG. 2 is a section through the fabric of a breast shell, the threads being loose and forming loops which protrude relatively far above the surface of the tissue.

FIG. 3 shows schematically a fabric of breast shells, the threads being relatively flat and close to the surface of the fabric.

Figure 1 shows a brassiere with two breast cups and two usual shoulder straps 11, each with a Friction buckle are connected so that they are in length can be adjusted. The torso band contains front sections 13 and back sections 14, the front and / or Back sections can be made of elastic material. Fastening means are provided at the ends of the back parts 14, through which the bra can be stretched around the body. These fastening means can be designed in the usual way and do not form part of the present innovation. To the Breast shells 10 are seams 15 in equidistant, concentric fashion Arranged in circles.

Stitching with the thread relaxed can be done by careful Adjustment of the sewing machine can be made, which is adjusted so that both the tension of the coming from the ship Thread as well as that of the thread guided through the needle is reduced as much as possible, so that, however, one more neat seam is created. This can be done in such a way that the thread tension is loosened in the sewing machine

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the one where "care must be taken that the tension / is reduced to such an extent will result in an incomplete seam »The two tensions should be about the same so that the knot is between

the middle of the loops of the stitching near / the one to be worked on

Material come to rest.

It is advantageous to produce a loose seam by using special shuttles that are different from the usual ones Flanged and equipped with a central axis boats deviate. In a conventional lock-stitching machine, the lower thread is fed from a shuttle, which is usually made of metal and has a central axis and on which the thread is wound in such a way that it is delivered to the material to be sewn by a rotation of the shuttle. These Shuttles can be called shuttles with an outside drain. When sewing, this shuttle shows the inclination, the Pull of the thread emerging from the shuttle to provide resistance and due to this based on inertia and friction

Resistance, the thread is tightened and stretched. Even if mowing is temporarily interrupted, the boat will tilt to maintain the turning movement and thread is then released, which more or less bulges »This one Operation can be referred to as "overspeeding". When the yawning is started again, then the sniffing The sewing machine uses up the puffed up thread so quickly that the shuttle begins its rotation with a jerk. Through this Jerk the thread is tightened and the jerk can be so strong that the thread breaks. Another way that the thread is tightened is due to the fact that the rotating boat is becoming increasingly empty. If a fully wound The shuttle is set in rotation, then it initially rotates slowly in order to deliver the required amount of thread. If the Half of the thread is used up, then the shuttle turns noticeably faster to deliver the same length of thread and if so it is almost empty, then it turns much faster to deliver the same length of thread. One by means of a usual one Schiffchens machined Uähgut therefore contains a thread that is fed under tension, the size of this tension can be different both within a piece and between different pieces.

If such a circumferential drainage boat with a All-thread central drainage shuttle that does not rotate replaces ^

then the above-mentioned tensions do not arise »Ein The shuttle with a central outlet does not contain a central axis and the thread is wound up in such a way that it extends from the center of the thread winding and is not given by the scope, lin such a boat contains a thread winding of helically wound load, which is wrapped tightly around the center, in the the shuttle does not contain an axial bore so that the thread from the shuttle at a uniform speed from the center and delivered over the upper edge of the shuttle and through a conventional thread guide attached to the housing of the shuttle can be performed. In the case of the shuttle itself, there is no axis, as is the case with the usual shuttle, which revolves around a rotate such axis. The shuttle therefore remains calm and does not turn and therefore none of the above-mentioned tensions occur Causing forces, such as inertia or friction, and an "overturning" cannot take place. As a result, the The thread is fed to the hewn material in a loose state, since it is completely quiet shuttle runs by itself from the center of the winding body. This smooth running of the thread out With such a central drainage shuttle, the thread coming from the shuttle is not stretched or pulled taut, and neither is the material to be sewn contains the thread in a loose, flaccid state.

When using central drainage boats, the has the thread emerging from the shuttle has such a low tension that

the thread being guided by the needle has just as little tension

can get, much less than they achieved by simply t loosening the thread tensioning devices of the sewing machine could be *

* T However, even if the tension of the needle thread is so γ is greatly reduced, then it could be observed that

some threads even pucker or "cause wrinkling" before washing. Even if the sewing machine is set to the lowest possible thread tension, the tension is still so strong that ζ «Β« a nylon thread is noticeably stretched »nylon, the resumes the initial state rapidly due to its elasticity, the overall ~ takes - ± tissues in so far as that curling and wrinkling occurs, in some cases, immediately after the sewing, lfäden to Überais Nade meander this difficulty should only those threads / used ,

which have a low elongation * Threads with an elongation not exceeding 2% with a tension of 150 g proved to be useful. In this way the sewn object contains threads which are as loose as possible and which have only a slight elongation. Furthermore, because the threads are loosely arranged, a shrinkage is taken up which can occur when the object has been washed in water so that the smooth,

wrinkle-free outline of the breast cups is not impaired. ι

The threads that are useful for carrying out the SüDC innovation should have a shrinkage that is as precise as possible: as large as that of the one used for the breast shells

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Fabric j so that the fabric and the threads are about equally strong shrink «When the fabric has a water shrinkage of about

1 % , then the shuttle and the needle thread should also have a water shrinkage of about 1 % . The needle thread should also an elongation not more than 2% of when it is loaded with 150 g * When using such threads una ^v loose stitching can curling or wrinkling of breast cups containing reinforcing, decorative seams, very much reduced or entirely be avoided"

As an example of the state of the art, a brassiere with breast cups was made from cotton. "Broadcloth with circular seams from conventional cotton thread using a conventional lock-stitch sewing machine." Cotton thread was used as the upper and lower thread. "The sewn item was washed in water and then dried and it was found that, as a result of the water shrinkage of the cotton thread, puckering and wrinkling occurred on the breast shells. The cotton thread used in this example had a water shrinkage of about 4 % and an elongation of

2% for a pull of 150g *

The water shrinkage was determined in the following manner and this method was used to determine the water shrinkage of all of the filaments identified herein. There will be five samples cut from the thread to be tested in a length of 35 cm each »near the ends of these samples

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attached so that the twist cannot loosen during the washing test «Indelible markings are made at intervals of 10 inches (254 mm) · The samples are placed in O ₅ 6 liter vessels of a Launder-Ometer, with a 1% ige soap solution of Ivory Snow is used which is preheated to 60 ⁰ C »the preheated samples are agitated in the Launder-Ometer 4-5 minutes at 4-2 revolutions per minute" the water temperature must be kept during the experiment at 60 ⁰ C . After completion of the washing test, the samples are removed from the containers, rinsed with cold water and dried on a flat surface.Make sure that the samples do not become confused when removing them from the containers * The samples are then measured and the shrinkage as follows calculated; Is based on a 10 inch long sample

10 - B χ (100)
10

the percent shrinkage, # / where "B" is the length after the Shrinkage means (the length specifications in this formula are taken in inches »25.4- mm) * The Launder-Ometer is on the side 82 of the Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, 1958 "

The elongation was measured according to A.S.T.M, D 204-57 T, using a ÜUP · 4 tester with a 150 g weight was »This test generally takes about 1 minute and

«- 10 ~

it is relatively easy and simple to carry out.

In another example of the prior art, FIG a brassiere with breast cups made of sanforized cotton cloth using a conventional quilted sewing machine Circular seams attached with nylon thread, with both the lower and the "top" thread was made of nylon. The sewn item showed a wrinkle shortly after sewing, which was due to the shrinkage inherent to the elastic nylon thread Another wrinkle appeared after washing and air drying observed in the breast cups due to the water shrinkage of the nylon thread. The one in this example The nylon thread used had a water shrinkage of 5.2% and an elongation of 3.2% when loaded with a 150 g weight ♦

(D a b hurry I Water shrinkage thread Twisting % Elongation % by train
150g weight 0.50 Fortisan (1) 10 0.60 5.20 Nylon (2) 15th 3.20 1.00 Dacron (3) 14th 1.00 4.00 cotton 22nd 2.00 4.20 silk 11th 1.20

(1) highly oriented, regenerated, saponified acetate cellulose from Oelanese Corporation of America *

(2) linear polyamide from Dupont Company

(3) linear polyester from Dupont Company (polyethylene glycol terephthalate).

A thread can have low water shrinkage and elasticity and yet be too weak to be useful. This can be countered by using a thread with a sufficient number of twists per unit of length, with as many twists as it should be until it has a usable strength, but not too many, otherwise it will stretch too much when sewing loosely. Although the major part of the tension on the thread is removed by the loose sewing, there is still a slight tension _t which causes a certain stretching of the thread. As the number of twists increases, the total length of the thread per unit of length increases, so that it can stretch more because there is more thread available for this stretch. The greater the stretch, the greater the shrinkage, and if the twist is so strong that the stretching that occurs and the subsequent shrinkage is large enough, the sewn item will even be wrinkled before washing. By increasing the twist, the elasticity of the thread is increased and a thread should therefore be used whose elasticity is not increased too much by excessive twisting.

example 1

As an example of the implementation of the invention, a lockstitch sewing machine in which the thread tensioning devices were loosened as much as possible so that straight

a usable thread disfigured, a Daeron thread with three loops and 14 twists per inch inserted, which exhibited an elongation of 1 $ at a pull of 150 g and a water shrinkage of 0.7 $ Shuttles fed with a central discharge, while the upper load ran off a cone · Both the upper and the lower thread were a Daeron thread. A brassiere, the breast cups of which were made of fine, sanforized cotton cloth, was sewn with circles using the above-mentioned dacron thread, and by loosely sewing the dacron thread was worked into the fabric in a loose, slack state. Hach dem Iahen the breast cups did not show a wrinkled or puckered appearance but had a smooth, wrinkle-free 3? orau The bra was then washed in water and air-dried »No wrinkling was observed in the breast cups and they retained their original, smooth shape»

A microscopic examination of the skin before washing the brassiere showed that the threads were in a loose, slack condition. This loose state can be illustrated by figure 2, in which the fabric 3 of the breast shell with the loose seam is shown schematically.This figure shows that the upper thread 1 and the lower thread 2 form loops that are relatively wide protrude from the surface of the fabric 3

~ 13

laughing at washing the bra they shrank Dacron threads shrink as a result of their own water, which causes the slackness of the load caused by the loose sewing was reduced and the upper thread 1 and the lower load 2 came closer to the surface of the brassiere, as shown in Figure 3 · The threads are now in an untensioned, even looser state in the bra, so that the original, smooth, wrinkle-free shape the breast shell is not disturbed. This state of the thread in which the thread is neither tight nor slack, and in arranged in complete harmony with the tissue can be referred to as a HormalBUstand »

Hach another embodiment of the hiring preferably two different threads are used to make a brassiere that will not pucker when washed still wrinkles »For example, a thread with a shiny surface can be used as the outer thread» lin Such a shiny thread can contribute very much to the decorative effect of the circular seams and if the water shrinkage and Elongation is within the limits of the fire, then you can also get a smooth, wrinkle-free brassiere

Example 2

line usual lockstitch sewing machine, their thread tensioning devices were loosened as in Example 1, with

a Dacron store as the top store and with a modified one Hyp a commercially available silk thread, e.g. # a lortisanladen Equipped as a lower store »The lortisan store is included as an untwisted store in an all-thread shuttle Central drainage included “A brassiere with brussels made of fine, sanforized cotton cloth was sewn with exeis Equipped in the above combination of shops, with the outside area de »G-ewebes pointed down, so that the shiny lortisan store in the brassiere is the outer one and the dacron store The inner store was * The hat contained the store in a slack, relaxed state, The one provided with circular seams Breast cups of the brassiere had a smooth, wrinkle-free appearance both before and after washing and subsequent air drying * The bra held a number from washes (20) without being noticeably changed

Example 5

Example 2 was repeated, except that instead of the untwisted a lortisan-laden with 5 twists per inch was used «The brassiere also had a smooth, wrinkle-free appearance and held an even larger number from washes (30) without any noticeable change.

Example 4

Example 2 was repeated, except that a Portisan thread with 10 twists per inch was used instead of single thread. The brassiere had again
a smooth, wrinkle-free appearance and withstood an even greater number of washes (40 - 60) than the bra of the
Example 3.

Claims (5)

RA. 770 552 * 12/22/59 See health protection claims 1. Brassiere with breast cups made of fabric in a smooth, wrinkle-free form, characterized in that the fabric has a low water shrinkage and that the breast shells have reinforcing seams, the quilted seams of which have about the same water shrinkage like the fabric, the needle thread at a load of 15Og elongation does not exceed $ 2 and the threads are loose are· 2. Brassiere according to claim 1, characterized in that the! Threads are so loose that after shrinking they are in normal, relaxed, not loose condition. 3. Brassiere according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that of the threads of the decorative seam of the outer shuttle thread made of shiny, highly oriented, regenerated saponified (saponified) cellulose acetate and the inner needle thread made of linear polyethylene glycol terephthalate, the water shrinkage of the fabric Breast cups and threads is about $ 1. 4. Brassiere according to claim 3, characterized in that the seam is arranged in the form of equidistant concentric circles is. 5. Brassiere according to one of the present claims, characterized in that the thread is made of saponified (saponified) cellulose acetate has 10 twists per 25.4 mm