DE1785142A1 - CUTTING PROCESS FOR CLOTHES - Google Patents

Description

DR. EYSENBACH

PATENT LAWYER PULLACH / MÖNCHEN 1785142

Symbol: BrV-5-P

Date: August 16, 1968

description

to the
Patent application

"Garment Cutting Process" Applicant: Mr. Paul YAUCIAIR

The following priority is claimed: French patent no. P.7 117 940 of August 16, 1967

The invention relates to various improvements in trimming processes for garments.

There are already numerous processes for cutting garments have been proposed with the aim of making the garments as closely as possible to the figure of the To suit the persons who will wear these garments.

These methods, in which either direct or indirect measurement is taken, lack the necessary accuracy and do After the garments have been basted, several try-ons are usually required.

209881 / 000A

1785U2

Whatever the line or direction of play prescribed by fashion, clothing is certain in any case Subject to laws in their dimensions, which are based on the special forms and also the changing attitudes of the to clothing human body. However, these various factors can be dealt with using the usual procedures do not take into account where mostly on a flat cutting pattern dimensions in proportion to the Measurements of the person to be dressed can be applied or applied directly to the body by trying on in a similar way produced garment a subsequent correction of the imperfections that may be detected will.

The object of the invention is to create a different from the previous cutting method, in which, in principle, the step of measuring the Body of the person to be dressed is carried out in the form of a proper anticipated fitting, with the garment is adapted to the real figure of this person by the cutter. These two procedural steps, namely taking measurements and trying on, which is usually done separately, one before and the other after cutting have been, according to the invention are thus carried out simultaneously, with the aid of a model, item of clothing or a tunic made of fabric or the like.

209881/0004

178GU2

The method according to the invention is accordingly characterized in the person for whom the garment to be made "is intended" is the general shape of the garment desired exhibiting model, or cover robe made of fabric or approximately matching the stature of the person to be dressed the like can be tried on first, the model horizontal and / every vertical, the cutter a precise adjustment of the fashion to the stature of the person to be clothed enabling slits or adaptation options in shape, for example of tapering folds ("pinces") and also vertical ones and horizontal, cropping the horizontal and vertical alignment of the model has noticeable and retractable lines of marks, and that one can then attach to this by trying it on The adapted model, for its part, is an exact representation of the same with the same adaptation options and the same marker lines adapting the basic cutting pattern, whereupon the values for the Measures the size of the person to be dressed for registration for the future, or, based on the basic pattern, cut the garment with great precision, or can produce an individual pattern for it «

To match the conditions of the fitting as closely as possible with the actual To bring the usage conditions of the actual item of clothing in accordance, the model preferably exists made of a double-layered fabric or one sewn onto canvas or reinforced with a hot-glued putter Fabric · The model should of course be constructed in the same way

209881/000 /,

178BU2

be like the actual garment, so that it is possible to conform it in the same way with the lines of the body shape bring to.

It is understood that the implementation of the invention Process-serving models, which will be described in more detail, as new industrially producible products to the object of the invention belong.

The method according to the invention can be applied to all types of clothing are used for men's and women's clothing, for example for jackets, trousers, under jackets, solid, i-i-coats, Robes, costumes, dresses, tailored suits and the like; the corresponding models contain adjustment slots for Each type of clothing is attached in the appropriate places for adjustment.

In a men's jacket, for example, there are these horizontal openings especially at the level of the shoulder blades and the saille for the back and at the level of the chest and the l'aille for the front; optionally there is an opening in the manner of tapering jjalten ("pinces") in the Back parts of the armpits and in the lapels in order to adapt the model to unevenness of the back and chest su can

It is noteworthy that in none of the previously known methods it allows a cutter to work directly on the body of his customer the thickness and length of required compensation folds set for bulges and obesity directly.

209881/0004

BATH

1785H2

As already mentioned, on the iiodell are vertical and horizontal lines of marks placed in such a way that it is possible for the cutter to adjust the vertical orientation of the Determine horizontal and vertical lines of the garment and possibly to adjust if, for example, a vertical line or a horizontal line of the garment by deepening (as a result of folds or stretching of the fabric or any other cause) when adapting to projections according to the projections or irregularities of the human shifted body, it is easy for the cutter to Correct the deformed line with a tick mark. The Kerkzeichenlinien are preferably in one of the fabric color of the Model's contrasting color applied to the cutter's to facilitate plumb fc alignment.

The moving of the aligned horizontal and vertical lines of the jouelles can be brought about or completed according to the invention by appropriately (with a bandage or a belt or the like) an organ with a spirit level on the neck of the model is anprobe the person placed "^ hen If the model is a master-jacket is, is this belt with the </ asserwaage course the same direction and for ^ enkrechtaus- the front and rear hurry! '' the jacket,

If the model is a jacket, are appropriate an adjustable collar and cuffs are also provided, and the cuffs then in turn carry horizontal and vertical cuffs M'jrk character lines that allow for each individual the

209881/0004

1785U2

determine correct vertical alignment.

The experience according to the invention thus allows the cutter to to try on the model without prior cutting directly on the body of the customer and the cutting of the garment to be carried out with accuracy with the aid of a pattern that has been tried out beforehand and on which the im Has registered remarks and signs made during the fitting.

In a modified embodiment of the method according to the invention the try-on model also serves as a pattern «In this embodiment, the model is a individual model piece in the form of a, foil made of a supple, non-woven material or a similar material in such a way that this film skin takes the place of the pattern after trying it on and is used to tailor all of the same customer's garments directly to this model, without any to use another pattern to help. This skin can be natural can also be preserved in order to later serve for the cutting of the garments for the same customer, where appropriate A fitting is kept to compensate for changes in the customer's figure that have occurred in the meantime may have resulted in *

It will be understood that various other modifications to the method are possible, which are within the framework of the conception keep,

BAD ORIGINAL 209881/0004

Claims (1)

178BH2 Zeiohent UrV-5-ΐ Date ί August 16, 1960 Claims 1. Fabrication of tailoring for garments, characterized in that "the person for whom the garment to be made is intended is given the general Fons des ₍ ev /" nachten illegiäun ^ öötnckee on ciaondos, sur stature öer eu clothing person approximately raaeendeo model b «w . ub ^ rwurfcewand auo ütoff or cereloichen zvLjri'rdevat lets threaten, with the model horizontal and / or voetilcale, the iiusc nelder an itenauG adaptation to the - keiteiTi in the form of s itz sulaufenden clteii ("pinceo ¹¹ ) and also vertical and lio ^ isontale, the punch cutter the liorisontal and vorticalo.unrlclituag des Πο ellca noticeable and aurochtr ^; ckbar maci: ende wcrivaeichenlinicn oufweiet, and then to this öurclj the fitting: *. odell oeineroeito a »cGLJGon ßonaue figure r.iit the r: leichon Anpaoaun ^ Gmößlichkoiten and the same Herlraeichenllni ^ n bildondeo -rundla ^ eficiniittmuoter adapts "-voraui mn <ntweßer of em runt laeeachnittraustcr the> ^r erte for iirHßcnmoQo the au vesting P rson aweck lefiiatriorun ^ f'r the future abmift or»-uarehend. dc :: i Crundlarcaclmittau .ter, dao ^ Leidunrisnt-ick with,, roi'ior ^ ea-ui,; koit ^ u. ^ cMneidet, bsv /. oin individual ^ cinittou. tor r herntellt 20988 1 / 000A ^: '"' ' ^: - ^{N> V} " * ■ S 178HH2 2. Yf? Rf;: hi?: N nach / In-pruch 1, Γ by §okennseichn et t <3ass the model nuu a "double elocten toff or .'.- possibly a .it linen./and deposited fabric or> including one with iillgfjvorklobtcn .uttor odor einon -nilGren material verot advised,. ^ toi'f beutet.t # 5. Vürohi. \ M cli einoui dor AnoprUeho 1 Me 2 _t «'.' By β β kc η ϋ ϋ ΰ i ο b η β tt .nß the vertical alignment of the iloriisontal and vertical lines the o-iollcs by application P a iiit, eei / moton mediating on Jialo the trying on Kroon ^ e is effected and prearranged. 4 · Ab ^{wandelte / A} uDf "hrun; oform co orfahronn; omüfl Anüprueb 1, thereby g β k β η η κ ο ic 1; ι: ο t» that al ο o ^ ell c "n in-'Jividuellcü i ^T ! o0oll in Γο · a Folio u.ur, elnv .i oocLuet - (i en un e EBT-one IV · erial or orgletchen vorvonüet; ill, and since ¹ IECE film nnoli the dressing room in the cHcilo einon -'CliPittmustcro steps and dacu serves »alle '-lcidun ent'c>: e et j, 3tic!: Cn customers daiT-uf directly," ie without. Unfitsunr oinea :: <ic · cn cro. Altm.on ctmittmustcrs zucuuciraeiden « _# Kleidun., ÜDtnckmodelle with horinon.-alon and vcrtikalon Anpaa-: jun Bsc.ilitsen tmd '* ■' ■■ rks <- ⁱ ichenlini "n i: jt JU ¹ OhI u.run cc \ ..roaiß einoa er Ann > r "marriage 1-4 · EAD ORIGINAL 7 0 9 H B 1 / (J η ο I ₄